Brink of the West: Black Hills, Badlands & Theodore Roosevelt National Park
April 22 - May 1, 2011
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Join us to explore unspoiled regions of the north-central United States where the combination of striking landscapes, wildlife, geology, and Native American and American history blend to create a fascinating spring tour. Explore the region in detail as we offer a blend of wildlife watching, moderate to leisurely hikes and scenic drives through state and national parks. Experience spring wildflowers and a host of natural wonders in this unique area where the prairie surrounds a mountain oasis as a great prelude to the Rockies!
One focus of the journey is the rich natural history of the area; we look for mountain and grassland mammals such as Black-tailed Prairie Dog, Bison, Pronghorn, Elk, Mule Deer, Bighorn Sheep, Mountain Goat, wild horses andburros. Our travels also provide 
an excellent opportunity to see both resdient and migrating bird species, including Golden Eagles, Prairie Falcons, American Dippers, Black-billed Magpies, Mountain Bluebirds, Burrowing Owls and a number of migrant warblers.
Wonders in rock, both natural and manmade, will also be a focus of this journey. We’ll sidetrack into Wyoming to visit Devil’s Tower, a massive butte created by a prehistoric volcano. We’ll be awed by the colorful and bizarre sedimentary rock formations of the Badlands and the ancient and intricate underground features of Wind Cave. While in the area we have to visit Mt. Rushmore, where we take a short hike for a close view of the amazing presidential profiles sculptured in a mountain.
The local towns and lodgings we visit on this tour are rich in history from the days of mining ventures, the settlements of the great Westward Migration, and the distinguished culture of the Lakota Sioux.
ITINERARY
Fri., April 22 Pre-trip Arrival in Bismarck
Arrive today in Bismarck, North Dakota, the state capital. If you arrive early enough, you may want to take in the North Dakota Heritage Center on your own. It is open until 5 p.m. We start our journey with a welcome dinner, introductions and an overview of the week ahead. (D)
Sat., April 23 Bismarck/Theodore Roosevelt National Park
We begin our journey this morning with a drive to Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park in Mandan which includes the Custer House and Barracks (circa 1875) and the earth lodges of On-A-Slant Mandan Village, a sacred site.
We then continue driving west 2 hours to the gorgeous overlook into the North Dakota Badlands at Painted Canyon, where we also scan the landscape for bison, elk and wild horses, and enjoy a picnic lunch.
Upon reaching Medora, we visit the Theodore Roosevelt N.P. Visitor Center and his historic 1883 Maltese Cross Cabin. Roosevelt once remarked, “I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota.” He loved the “strenuous life” of the West, but saw the Bison and other wildlife disappearing and overgrazing destroying habitat for mammals and songbirds. Thus, his conservation ethic was born.
Across the road the De Mores State Historic Site interprets the life of the Marquis de Mores, a French aristocrat and dreamer who became a major cattleman and entrepreneur, and his wife, Medora. We should have time to begin exploring the park before heading to our lovely country lodge with a breathtaking view of the badlands below.
Accommodations at Eagle Ridge Lodge, Medora (L,D)
Sun., April 24 Theodore Roosevelt National Park
After an optional early morning birding walk from the lodge, and breakfast at your leisure, we head into the South Unit of the park for a full day exploring and hiking through this unique and memorable landscape created beginning around 60 million years ago as the Great Plains were formed from eroded materials of the young Rockies carried eastward by rivers. Swamps were formed later during wet and warm times lush with vegetation. More sediments buried these plants and lignite coal was formed. Petrified wood and bentonite clays can be found, traced to ash from old volcanoes far to the west. Rivers and creeks cut into the soft sediments to sculpt the badlands.
On the scenic loop drive and hikes, we’ll be looking for Golden Eagles, Northern Harriers, American Kestrels, Sandhill Cranes, Common Flickers, Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Black-billed Magpies, Horned Larks, Mountain Bluebirds, Brown Thrashers, Red-eyed Vireos, and several warblers: Yellow, Yellow-rumped, Black and White, American Redstart, Ovenbird, Common Yellowthroat, and Yellow-breasted Chat. Some of the more colorful species we see include Black-headed Grosbeaks, Lazuli Buntings, American Goldfinches, Western Meadowlarks, Northern Orioles, and Rufous-sided Towhees.
Black-tailed Prairie Dogs make their home in towns that benefit myriad creatures. Reintroduced Bison and Elk, and wild horses wander, along with both Mule and White-tailed Deer. Our walks include the Coal Vein Trail and the Wind Canyon Trail above the Little Missouri River. Dinner tonight is at your leisure.
Accommodations at Eagle Ridge Lodge (L)
Mon., April 25 Medora/Devil’s Tower/Spearfish Canyon
This morning we get an early start after breakfast, driving south through vast prairie, small farms and rural towns west into Wyoming to visit Devil's Tower National Monument, the first national monument created by the passage of the Antiquities Act in 1906. This impressive geologic wonder is perhaps best known as a site in the movie "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." In a remote prairie setting, this dramatic remnant of an ancient volcano promises a memorable experience. We circle the base of the tower on a three-mile trail.
Enjoy a picnic lunch and a chance to study the unique plants and animals of this high plains grassland. Listen for the bark of Black-tailed Prairie Dogs as we observe the antics of these engaging mammals in a huge "dog town." Golden Eagle may be patrolling above, while badger and coyote may be in the vicinity hunting prairie dogs. The calls of Black-billed Magpie, Common Raven, and Western Meadowlark ring out in the vast open space. Standing over 1,000 feet above the Belle Fourche River, Devil's Tower is an ideal perching spot for Prairie Falcon, and a prized destination for technical climbers we may see from our trail.
We’ll also watch for colorful Mountain Bluebirds adorning the sagebrush landscape. The glorious old cottonwoods and various shrubs decorate the river habitat that we inspect for migrant and nesting songbirds. We continue our drive to Spearfish in late afternoon to relax and enjoy dinner. In the evening we take a stroll to listen for howling Coyotes and, if the sky is clear, gaze at the stars.
Accommodations at Spearfish Canyon Lodge, Spearfish Canyon (B,L,D)
Tues., April 26 Spearfish Canyon / Custer State Park
We spend early morning hiking to Roughlock Falls close to the lodge, searching for American Dippers in the stream, Prairie Falcons may fly swiftly overhead, and we may spot a Townsend’s Solitaire in the forest or grazing White-tailed Deer. Afterwards, we drive along scenic Spearfish Canyon, stopping to take in sounds and scents . Enjoy lunch and some time to look around in the historic mining town of Lead (adjacent to Deadwood) before continuing on through Hill City to the State Game Lodge in Custer State Park. In the afternoon, we take a leisurely walk and watch for Wild Turkey, American Bison and Bighorn Sheep that frequent the meadow near State Game Lodge.
Our lodge is a site on the National Historic Register, one we know you will enjoy. Relax on the porch with a view of the meadow, often visited by Mule Deer at dusk. Luxuriate in the lodge’s rustic elegance during a group dinner in its dining room. In 1927, President Calvin Coolidge used the lodge as his summer “White House”; past visitors include Dwight Eisenhower and Teddy Roosevelt. In the lobby, the large stone fireplace is often ablaze to warm visitors.
Accommodations at State Game Lodge, Custer State Park, SD. (B,D)
Wed. and Thur., April 27 & 28 Black Hills / Custer State Park / Wind Cave National Park
We have two full days to hike and explore the 73,000-acre game refuge of Custer State Park in the isolated Black Hills, a mountain range often described as a prelude to the Rockies. In 1913, there was great concern over dwindling populations of Bison, Pronghorn, Bighorn Sheep, and Elk. Today they thrive, along with the non-native, but very popular Rocky Mountain Goats that frequent the rocky spires of the Needles and tall granite reaches of Harney Peak. On the trail to this striking peak from sublime Sylvan Lake, we have a good chance to see Northern Three-toed Woodpeckers, Red-breasted Nuthatches and Black-capped Chickadees. One year we spotted a Pine Marten! We’ll hope to make the top, weather permitting. We may also walk down Sunday Gulch a short distance as it is so unique. We’ll take the stunning, historic Needles Highway back to the lodge.
The Black Hills are reminiscent of Yellowstone National Park, except that eastern tree species such as American Elm and Birch mingle with the Ponderosa Pines. Trails are numerous, and several can be combined for great days afield. We offer hikes to match the interests and abilities of the group, typically three to six miles per day. Birding should be excellent along the river courses – including the riparian zone of French Creek, where we may find Cooper’s Hawks, Pinyon Jays or Lincoln’s Sparrows feeding amidst the lush spring vegetation. With luck we may spot Ferruginous Hawk or Northern Harriers flying above scenic open meadows. We look for warblers such as Orange-crowned, Yellow- rumped, and American Restarts; with luck we may find Northern Waterthrushes as well.
On one afternoon we drive the scenic wildlife route. Then we’ll have the opportunity to join a national park ranger for a guided hike through spectacular Wind Cave, one of the oldest and longest caves in the U.S. The cave is well lit, with an excellent trail that meanders through delicate box-work filigree, robust stalactites, flowstone, frostwork, popcorn features, and more! The under-ground geologic wonders are just one reason to visit: outside the cave, we also enjoy birding, watching wildlife, and – for those that choose to do so – hiking to a lookout tower with great vistas of the Black Hills.
Pronghorns, Prairie Dogs, Bison, and Mule Deer are found in the near pristine prairies ablaze with early spring wildflowers. Protected since 1903, Wind Cave National Park is a gem in our National Park System. In the evenings you can enjoy dinner at your leisure.
Accommodations at the State Game Lodge, Custer State Park. (B,L both days)
Fri., April 29 Black Hills / Mt. Rushmore / Rapid City / Badlands
Today we travel Iron Mountain Road – now known as the Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway – to explore the northeast corner of the Black Hills. Enjoy a lovely short hike along Iron Creek in the morning en route to Mount Rushmore. Later we travel north toward Rapid City and east to the Badlands.
Three impressive granite tunnels along this route frame the famous carvings of Mt. Rushmore: the heads of Presidents Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Roosevelt. After a brief walk on one of the monument’s short trails to get a close-up view and a stop at the Visitor Center, we continue to historic downtown Rapid City, for some free time to shop, have lunch on your own and explore. Several galleries here display fine collections of art by the Lakota Sioux.
By mid-afternoon we continue on to Badlands National Park, enjoying the fantastic Door and Window Trails just inside the park’s eastern edge. This introduction to the park is sure to whet your appetite for more!
Accommodations at the Cedar Pass Lodge, Badlands National Park, SD. (B,D)
Sat., April 30 Badlands National Park
Today we explore Badlands National Park, described in the park brochure as "a wonderland of bizarre, colorful spires and pinnacles, massive buttes and deep gorges.” Learn more about the geologic forces that carved this colorful terrain as we hike the trails and absorb the prairie’s sense of limitless space. Badlands National Park now preserves one of the richest mammal fossil beds in the world, spanning a period that traces the whole Age of Mammals. Cliff Shelf Nature Trail shelters myriad songbirds; perhaps you’ll see a Bighorn Sheep on the pinnacles or a hawk overhead. As we walk and explore, listen for the calls of Rock Wrens and watch for signs of Townsend’s Solitaires, Coyotes, Badgers, and Black-tailed Jackrabbits. The Castle Trail offers us a chance to fully immerse ourselves in badlands topography. After a picnic lunch, we enjoy the awesome Badlands Loop Road and the Badlands Wilderness Area-Sage Creek Unit Drive with many scenic vistas. Learn more about local efforts to restore the endangered Black-footed Ferrets in Conata Basin. Tonight we celebrate our discovery of a beautiful and little-known region of our country with a farewell dinner.
Accommodations at the Cedar Pass Lodge (B,L,D)
Sun., May 1 Departures from Rapid City
Plan to depart Rapid City on flights after 10:30 AM. Please note that United Airlines serves both cities, in combination with other airline partners, so it should not be a proble to arrive in Bismark and depart Rapid City.
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COST OF THE JOURNEY
The cost of this journey is $2395.00 from Bismark, ND, departing Rapid City, SD. The cost is based on double occupancy and includes all accommodations; meals as specified in the itinerary, group airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. The cost is based on a minimum number of 6 participants, with fewer, a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. The cost does not include transportation to or from your home to Bismark/returning from Rapid City, or items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone charges, porterage, maid gratuities or beverages from the bar. Single supplement (as available) is $495.00.
TRANSPORTATION
The main carrier into Bismark, ND is United Airlines, offered in combination with several other major airline partners. Plan to arrive in Bismark in time for dinner on April 22nd, and plan to depart after 10:30AM on May 1. If you arrive early or stay on after the trip we can help you make arrangements. We recommend the Hotel Alex Johnson in Rapid City at the end of the journey – it’s a lovely hotel close to excellent restaurants and galleries.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery.
PHOTO
CREDITS:
American Dipper photo by Carol Rivchun; all other photos by
Peg Abbott.
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