Naturalist Journeys, LLC - Small Group Birding and Natural History Tours

Southern Ecuador
November 3-18, 2007

The Andes Mountains of Southern Ecuador are highly complex, providing a great variety of habitats within a small geographic area. For decades, birders have recognized the region’s rich biodiversity; now new lodgings at the Jocotoco Foundation Reserves make it possible for us to stay in incredible places with nature close at hand. We plan three nights each at Buenaventura, in the foothills of the western side of the Andes, and at Tapichalaca, adjacent to the magnificent Podocarpus National Park. Three nights are also spent at the beautiful colonial city of Cuenca, with time to visit local markets and to examine some of the architectural and cultural wonders.

Abundant birding and biodiversity characterize all our locations. Beginning in Guayaquil, we visit a mangrove forest and look for Horned Screamer at a nearby freshwater lake, introducing you to a family of birds unique to South America. At Buenaventura, we have the chance to see the beautiful El Oro Parakeet, only discovered in 1980! At Tapichalaca Reserve we look for Jocotoco Antpitta, discovered by Robert Ridgely and others as recently as 1997. We should see large mixed flocks of some of the most colorful tanagers on the continent. Peppered among the flocks will be manakins, flycatchers, fruiteaters, becards and more. Expansive Podocarpus National Park protects the largest remaining patches of Polylepis forest in Ecuador as well as the high terrain of the paramo. Perhaps, with luck, we will find the cloudforest-dwelling Spectacled Bear!

Hospitality in Ecuador is as memorable as the birding and natural history. Communities we visit in Southern Ecuador retain their traditional culture, a delightful aspect of our trip that rivals the natural wonders. Between Loja and Cuenca we visit a handicraft market of the indigenous Andean people known as the Saraguros. In Cuenca we have a guided tour of the city with an emphasis on history, architecture and culture. This is an all NEW Ecuador journey; we have space for only eight persons so if you are interested please contact us right away!

ITINERARY

Sat., Nov 3 Arrival in Guayaquil
Arrive today at the Simon Bolivar International Airport, Guayaquil, where we provide transfers to our hotel, a five-star property located across from Bolivar Park in the heart of the city. Rest up from your flight and at 6:30 meet your guides and fellow travelers to enjoy a welcome dinner and orientation.
Accommodations at the Unipark Hotel, Guayaquil (D)

Sun., Nov 4 Manglares Churute Ecological Reserve / Buenaventura Reserve
This morning we drive southward along the Pacific Coast to a reserve that protects 125,000 acres of rich mangrove forest and expansive salt flats. Here Roseate Spoonbill, Wattled Jacana, Cocoi Heron, Wilson’s and Collared Plover and other shore and wading birds find vital food and shelter. Unfortunately, much of this habitat is threatened by intensive shrimp farming so this is a critical reserve for many species. Nearby, at a freshwater lake, we look for Black-bellied Whistling Duck and Horned Screamer; the latter a bold and vocal member of a family unique to South America.

We then head inland, watching for Savannah Hawk and Peruvian Meadowlark in an agricultural area before reaching forests of the Buenaventura Reserve, best known for its nesting rare and highly local El Oro Parakeets. This afternoon we check the gardens and feeders on the property, which attract an array of hummingbirds that includes Green Thorntail, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Emerald-bellied Woodnymph, both Baron’s and White-whiskered Hermit and the impressive Violet-tailed Sylph. At close range you can enjoy these colorful creatures to your heart’s content!

Our lodgings are comfortable private rooms with bath; only four on the property, but the lush forest location and prime location compensate for the lack in luxury. Our stay also benefits important work of the reserve, a place that you will treasure.
Accommodations at the Jocotoco Foundation’s Umbrellabird Lodge, Buenaventura Reserve (B,L,D) **please note: as the lodge has just four rooms, our tour is limited to 8 persons throughout; at this location there may be no single rooms available. At other locations of the tour there will be singles available.

Mon., Nov 5 and Tues., Nov 6 Buenaventura Reserve
We have two days to explore the rich Buenaventura area; driving up and down the valley yields access to birds and habitats of different elevations. This reserve was established in 1999, and through diligent efforts of the Jocotoco Foundation has grown to protect almost 4000 acres of cloudforest on the western slope of the Andes. Botanists will marvel at the rich array of plants and their attendant butterflies as well. Birding at this location is truly amazing; some of the best in South America. While walking trails here we should find spectacular birds, including Golden-headed Quetzal, the endemic Guayaquil Woodpecker, Bronze-winged Parrot, the endemic Pale-mandibled Aracari, Red-headed Barbet, and Scaled Fruiteater. We have ample time to watch the behavior of colorful and unusual species including birds performing at their leks; with luck we may see courtship behavior of Club-winged Manakin or the startling Long-wattled Umbrellabird. Along a 6km trail through the reserve, we look for secretive forest species such as the El Oro Tapaculo. Meals are served graciously at this small lodge; day’s end provides a chance to relax with fellow travelers and to catalog our finds.
Accommodations for 2 nights at the Jocotoco Foundation’s Umbrellabird Lodge, Buenaventura Reserve (B,L,D)

Wed., Nov 7 Loja / Catamayo / Vilcabamba
On a last morning outing we venture along a river where we may find Sunbittern and Fasciated Tiger Heron; in lush forest vegetation mixed flocks reveal a host of colorful tanagers and wrens feeding alongside Pacific Tuftedcheek, Barred Puffbird and Choco Toucan. After breakfast, driving between Buenaventura and Vilcabamba, we spend time exploring the more arid habitat of the Catamayo Valley near Loja. Here we hope to find Pacific Parrotlet among the scrub forest and agricultural fields, along with several members of the finch family: Parrot-billed and Dull-colored Seedeaters, Collared Warbling-Finch, Band-tailed Sierra Finch and the endemic Tumbes Sparrow. Another highlight is the unique Elegant Crescent-chest Tapaculo. After birding this habitat, we pass through the historic city of Loja, established in 1548 and on an important historical route to the Amazon. Loja is known for the beautiful architecture of its historic downtown, with houses painted in strong colors along its narrow streets. We will return in a few days; today we continue on to the smaller village of Vilcabamba, about 30 km south of Loja.

Vilcabamba is the Kichwa word for Sacred Valley; at 5000 ft. it hosts an idyllic climate. Its residents seem to thrive – Vilcabamba is known for its numerous residents who reach 100 years and higher. Pure air and water contribute to longevity – or perhaps it’s the waters of local hot springs! Two rivers join here to form the Vilcambamba River; the Chambo and the Yambala. Birders know Vilcabamba as a place to search for Plumbeous Rail, often found in wet areas close to the road. The lower valley provides a picturesque mosaic of corn and sugar cane fields, interspersed with fruit orchards, greenhouses for growing flowers and cattle pastures. Higher reaches of the valley continue into Podocarpus National Park, where on an afternoon outing we may find Plumbeous-backed Thrush and White-tailed Jay. We think you’ll enjoy exploring this delightful small city; perhaps you’ll want to relax a bit and try the waters yourself.
Accommodations at Jardin Escandido, Vilcabamba (www.vilcabamba.org/jardinescondido) (B,L,D)

Thurs., Nov 8 Tapichalaca Reserve
The Tapichalaca area has been treasured by birders for quite some time, but the discovery of the Jocotoco Antpitta in 1997 gave inspiration to start the foundation that bears its name. The Jocotoco foundation (www.jocotocofoundation.org) is dedicated to setting up reserves in critical bird habitat throughout Ecuador. Five species of Antpitta occur on the property: Jocotoco, Rufous, Chestnut-naped, Slate-crowned and, at higher elevations, Undulated. We have a unique opportunity here to see several antippas at close range, without disturbing them, since the resident park ranger Franco has trained some of the Jocotoco Antpittas and other species to come to the trail looking for worms he has collected and cleaned for them.

Tapichalaca is situated on eastern Andean slopes where it gains the influence of Amazonia (Marañon) species. On trails we search for Golden-plumed Parakeet, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, Dusky Pija, Marañon Thrush and, with luck, a mixed flock of tanagers including Paradise, Silver-backed and White-capped. Our lodgings are on the reserve, in a two story home with rooms and private baths. Hummingbird feeders surround us, as does the temperate cloud forest. With sunny weather a kaleidoscope of butterflies emerge. We hear that the food is wonderful and are pleased that our use of the lodge benefits the reserve.
Accommodations at Tapichalaca Lodge (www.jocotocofoundation.org) (B,L,D)

Fri., Nov 9 Tapichalaca Reserve
At dawn sounds of the forest lure you from bed; the hummingbird feeders are active and we have the chance to see Rainbow-bearded and Rufous-capped Thornbill, Amethyst-throated and Flame-throated Sunangel, and of course the bossy Chestnut-breasted Coronet. A favorite of many, though wide-spread throughout Ecuador, is the incredible Long-tailed Sylph.

Today we venture to higher reaches of neighboring Podocarpus National Park, learning more about the unique Polylepis forest and spending time in the often-windswept paramo. The Giant Conebill is closely tied to this habitat type by its habit of feeding on cones. We also look for Gray-breasted Mountain Toucan, the endemic Bearded Guan, Purple-throated Sunangel (a high elevation hummingbird), Crimson-mantled Woodpecker and several tanagers including Lacrimose Mountain Tanager, Plushcap, Red-hooded Tanager, Golden-crowned Tanager and Black-headed Hemispingus. At dusk we watch for Swallow-tailed Nightjar, which appears as a quetzal of the night as it displays its extravagant tail in flight. In this remote location, listen for the eerie call of Andean Pootoo, and if it’s a clear night enjoy a sky of a thousand stars.
Accommodations at Tapichalaca Lodge (B,L,D)

Sat., Nov 10 Valladolid Valley / Tapichalaca Reserve
Enjoy good Ecuadorian coffee from our porch with a spectacular view of the valley below. Perhaps a pair of Maroon-chested Ground Dove will come into view; near the lodge we find Orange-banded Flycatcher, Barred Antthrush, and a host of other species. Plant life around the lodge is fascinating as well; with luck several species of orchids and bromeliads will be in bloom.

This morning we venture lower in elevation to explore the Valladolid Valley, about 12 km. south of Tapichalaca towards the Peruvian border. This area, with several patches of woodland and scrub to explore, gives us access to a number of species not found elsewhere in Ecuador, most notably the Maranon Thrush.

In the afternoon we return to our cozy lodgings with some time to relax, or watch the hummingbirds at the feeders. Dinner is a treat. Xavier Munoz of Neblina Forest tells us that the chef here used to work at a French restaurant in Quito; he shows his expertise in every meal as he combines exotic tropical flavors with French techniques.
Accommodations at Tapichalaca Lodge (B,L,D)

Sun., Nov 11 Zamora / Copalinga
This morning we drive to the Zamora-Chinchipe province of Ecuador, located at the southeastern end of Amazonia and known for its bountiful biodiversity. Zamora is unique to our trip for adding tropical elements that extend into the foothills– both botanical and avian additions. The lodge at Copalinga is situated in more open second-growth habitat with gardens; trails nearby take us into lush forests. Our individual casitas are new and feature private baths and a balcony. At a comfortable 3000 ft. in elevation, we can explore trails out our door to see orchids, bromeliads and a host of colorful birds of the tropical submontane humid forest. Tanagers are particularly abundant; we look for the bold black and white Magpie Tanager amid its more colorful cousins – Green and Gold, Blue-necked, Golden, Orange-eared and Spotted Tanagers. There are also mixed flocks of the complex Funarid clan – the spinetails, foliage-gleaners and xenops. After a group dinner, enjoy the starry skies and revel in the peace and quiet of this unique part of the country.
Accommodations at Cabinas Ecologicas Copalinga, adjacent to Podacarpus NP
(www.copalinga.com) (B,L,D)

Mon., Nov 12 Zamora / Bombuscaro – Podocarpus National Park / Copalinga
We find new hummingbirds before our eyes at feeders at Copalinga. These include Wire-crested Thorntail, Green Hermit, Black-eared Fairy, and Violet-fronted Brilliant. On trails at the Bombuscaro section of Podocarpus National Park we look for two range-restricted species, the Coppery-chested Jacamar and Ecuadorian Piedtail. Highland Motmot is the largest of its clan, and with luck we’ll find Black-billed Treehunter probing on moss-and lichen-clad tree limbs. Along a rushing stream we may find White-capped Dipper or possibly a pair of Torrent Duck. In lush forests, Black-streaked Puffbird and Lanceolated Monklet are sit-and-wait insect predators; with luck we might find one of earth’s more bizarre species – the Amazonia Umbrellabird. In the afternoon we gather to discuss some of the geology of the Andes, foundation of the region’s rich biodiversity. Sunset finds us gathering in the common area, sharing delights of the day, tales of other journeys, and yes, counting up our species! Enjoy a dinner of fresh local foods prepared by our hosts.
Accommodations at Cabinas Ecologicas Copalinga, adjacent to Podacarpus NP (B,L,D)

Tues., Nov 13 Old Zamora-Loja Road / La Toma / Loja
Our drive to Loja is beautiful as we take in scenic vistas of the convoluted ridges of the Andes. Along the way we explore the Old Zamora-Loja Road, legendary for several decades among birders, and still providing quality habitat for us to find specialties such as the endemic White-breasted Parakeet and Chestnut-tipped Toucanet. We may add Vermilion or Metallic-green tanagers to our list, and we watch for Cliff Flycatchers in appropriate habitat. We cross a 9000 ft. pass en route, entering the paramo habitat and then descending into a drier region and then Loja city. At higher elevation we look for Paramo Seedeater, Mouse-colored Thistletail and Marble-faced Bristle-tyrant. At lower elevation, hummingbirds of this arid valley country include Purple-collared Woodstar, Loja Hummingbird and the Elegant Crescentchest. We also look for Collared Antshrike, Fasciated Wren and Long-tailed Mockingbird. In the afternoon, enjoy some free time to explore this five-hundred year old city. Downtown there are several cathedrals and other historic buildings of note, surrounding several park-like squares. The Entrada a la Ciudad is a striking, almost medieval looking building that houses an art museum we can explore. Loja is capital of the province of the same name, and is a major economic center for the Southern Andes.
Accommodations at El Liberator, Loja (www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-Loja-Hotels) (B,L,D)

Wed., Nov 14 Cuenca
The drive between Loja and Cuenca is scenic, and along the way we stop for beautiful vistas, and to explore areas of biological interest. In the dry valley of Ona, about halfway between Loja and Cuenca, we will see a variety of bromeliads. Tillandsias grow on the small trees but we will see terrestrial varieties also. Perhaps we’ll have a chance to try repe during lunch, a green banana soup made from a local banana type and a specialty of the area.

An interesting cultural aspect of this region is that it is home to the indigenous Andean people known as the Saraguros. For hundreds of years they traditionally lived in the Andean mountain highlands, but now primarily reside in tropical forest areas. Among their many crafts can be found beautiful beadwork and also musical instruments including a wooden flute called an antara.

We arrive with time to settle in and stretch our legs exploring a bit of colonial Cuenca. Dinner tonight is at the hotel so you can relax after a day of travel through the Andes.
Accommodations at El Conquistador, Cuenca (B,L,D)

Thurs., Nov 15 Cuenca / Uzuphud Valley
Cuenca is the third-largest city in Ecuador (after Guayaquil and Quito) and is the capital of the southernmost province of Azuay. Located in the highlands at 8200 ft., it rivals Cuzco, Peru for charm with its cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, traces of Inca culture and magnificent cathedrals. As the second-largest city of the Inca Empire and a major bastion of Spanish colonial power, the city today is recognized as a World Heritage Site. We will explore the city with a local guide, discussing history that dates from pre-Inca times. We also visit the Uzuphud Valley, from which we can appreciate the terraced nature of the city, which is fed by four rivers of the Andes. This is a great place to purchase panama hats and the famous ceramics of Cuenca, as well as other handicrafts. Another highlight is the 10 de Agosto market, an open-air market featuring fruits, vegetables and meats. Also not to be missed is a trip to the Turi overlook. Sitting on a hill to the south of the city, it affords spectacular views on a clear day.
Accommodations at El Conquistador, Cuenca (B,L,D)

Fri Nov., 16 Cajas National Park / Cuenca
Today we visit Cajas National Park, a 70,000 acre protected area established in 1996 just west of Cuenca. Here the high paramo habitat is dotted by over 250 lakes. Local people visit the park to honor the Virgen del Cajas who is believed to have made an appearance there. There is also an ancient Inca Road crossing the park, still visible after several centuries. In the extensive highlands, we search for magnificent free-flying Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard- Eagle, Puna Hawk, Carculated Caracara and high elevation hummingbirds such as Violet-throated (endemic) and Veridean Metaltails, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Shining Sunbeam, Chimborazo Hillstar, and Sparkling Violet-ear. In picturesque lakes, we hope to find Andean Gull, Yellow-billed Pintail and Speckled Teal. We take time to examine the unique vegetation of the paramo; at this time of year many of the shrubs should be in bloom. Other plants grow close to the ground, exhibiting hairs and other adaptations to the often cold and wet climate. Spires of Puyo Bromeliads make perfect perches for Black-tailed Trainbearer, Giant Hummingbird, Stout-billed Cincloides and Paramo Ground Tyrant. Several patches of Polylepis forest occur here as well, so if we’ve missed any specialties of this habitat earlier, we have another chance to find them. This is a great area to bird and hike – atop the world of the Andes. Return to Cuenca, where we choose a local restaurant to sample some specialty dishes of the region.
Accommodations at El Conquistador, Cuenca (B,L,D)

Sat Nov., 17 Cuenca / Quito
We plan an afternoon flight back to Quito, so you can spend the morning visiting local markets, one or more of the many museums, or local areas of interest such as Pumapungo, an Inca palace. It will be hard to leave this beautiful city surrounded by the Andes – indeed if anyone wants to stay on to explore in more detail, we can help you make those arrangements! For those of us departing, we return to Quito, where we enjoy a farewell dinner at a favorite local restaurant and accommodations at a small business hotel close to the Amazonas shopping district. Likewise, if anyone is new to Quito and would like additional time there, this is easy to arrange.
Accommodations at Hotel Sebastian, Quito (B,L,D)

Sun Nov., 18 Departures
Morning flights leave Quito to several gateway cities in the US; transfers will be provided for those flights leaving before NOON.

Cost of the Journey
Cost is $3490.00 from Guayaquil, departing Quito, is based on double occupancy and includes: all nights’ accommodations, group airport transfers, professional guide services of expert local guides and Peg Abbott of Naturalist Journeys, transportation within Ecuador, pre-departure information and services, and miscellaneous program expenses. This cost is based on a minimum of 8 persons. If there are fewer than 8 participants, a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300.00) may apply. It does not include your flight to Guayaquil, departing Quito or items of a personal nature such as; beverages from the bar, porterage, laundry, phone calls, or gift items. We also recommend a gratuity for our local drivers and guides, which is left to your discretion. Single supplement is $380.00.

Travel Arrangements
Coming soon!

Photo Credits:
Jocotoco Antpitta, Xavier Munoz (www.neblinaforest.com); Butterfly, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Tropical Hibiscus, Butterflies, Green and Rufous Kingfisher, Emerald Cicada, Greg Smith; Long-tailed Sylph (2), Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Aplamado Falcon, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Carunculated Carcara, Tony Beck - www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

NATURE PROFILE:
Podocarpus National Park, Ecuador

South of the colonial city of Cuenca and near the town of Loja is the 361,000-acre Podocarpus National Park. In addition to its size, the park is impressive for its vertical extent which ranges from approximately 2,000 feet to 11,800 feet. With a wide range of altitudinal zones, the visitor finds a wealth of natural history to explore and contemplate. Indeed, this landscape of the southern highlands may be as interesting to the naturalist traveler as the better known Galapagos Islands.

The Andes extend north-south through Ecuador, primarily as two ranges bounding a high, inter-montane district. Pronounced ridges across this lengthy highland district separate a series of high valleys. Here one finds a tundra-like expanse of tussock grasses and fascinating flowering shrubs. In Ecuador, “páramo” is the term for the altitudinal zone roughly above the tree line and below the extent of permanent snow cover. “Altiplano” is a term also associated with the highlands of South America, but more appropriately applies to Peru and Bolivia for their high, flattish plane or shield.

Podocarpus National Park includes highlands and páramos on the eastern slope of the Andes and extends to lower elevations and Amazonian rainforest. As one descends the mountain slopes beneath the páramo, vegetation becomes more dense and supports a different collection of animals.

The park’s signature trees, several species of Podocarpus (or Romerillo), are conifers, the only conifers indigenous to Ecuador. A number of patches of the trees remain, and protecting them was a primary raison d’être for establishing the park. Another special species of Podocarpus National Park is the Spectacled Bear, the only bear now in South America. Although park visitors rarely see one, studies show that the bears are there, both inside and outside the park boundaries. Typically an adult male weighs up to 400 pounds. Each individual bear has unique white markings around the eyes. Other mammals of the park include Mountain Tapir, Puma, and Andean Fox.

It is the birds of Podocarpus’ rich terrain that draw many visitors -- over 500 species live in the varied habitats of the park. The great Andean Condor may soar in the sky above, showing off its ten foot wingspan. Mixed flocks of colorful tanagers feed with fruiteaters, flycatchers, parakeets and puffbirds. At the other end of the size scale are the hummingbirds, over 50 species of hummers with names such as Glittering-throated Emerald, Violet-fronted Brilliant, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Rufous-capped Thornbill and Sword-billed Hummingbird, the latter of which has a bill as long as its head and body together. Other birds that inhabit the park include Black-billed Mountain Toucan of the high slopes, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager of the páramo, and Amazonian Umbrellabird of the lower eastern slopes. The region is so vibrant and complex that a new bird species, the Jocotoco Antpitta, was discovered by Robert Ridgely and others as recently as November, 1997.

In addition to the natural history, the region around Podocarpus National Park has a multitude of intriguing cultural and historic features. The lands from Peru north to the city of Quito were part of the Inca realm when the Spaniards, under Pizarro, conquered the Incas in 1532. The general route of the Inca road followed the flanks of the Andes.

Baron Alexander van Humboldt traveled the same general route when he traversed Ecuador in 1802, and he must have passed very near what is now Podocarpus National Park. This “renaissance man” had a wide ranging curiosity as well as meticulous methods of a naturalist. His work inspired Charles Lyell and Charles Darwin. As he sailed from Lima to Acapulco, Mexico, Humboldt noted the cold water current flowing northward along the coast; today it is known as the Humbolt Current. He described the current’s climatic implications that create the stretch of desert along Peru’s southern coast and also discovered the magnetic equator, important in the field of geomagnetism. Humboldt coined the name “Avenue of Volcanoes” for the chain of volcanoes that rise along Andean ridges, another signature landscape feature of Ecuador. He speculated on the formation of these volcanoes and the earthquake activity of the region, which are now ascribed to the action of tectonic plates.

Podocarpus National Park, established in 1982, protects the patches of Podocarpus trees and other habitat. It also helps protect the water quality. The park has many lakes and includes the headwaters of a myriad of streams which converge and feed four major watersheds, Zamora, Loja, Vilcabamba, and Malacatos rivers, all of which ultimately flow into the mighty Amazon River.

Several international organizations are particularly interested in conservation in Ecuador. The Ecuadorian Jocotoco Foundation (expand this). The Nature Conservancy, through its Parks in Peril program and with partner organizations and governmental units, works near Podocarpus National Park to design and establish wildlife corridors and new protected lands. They help train local residents as park rangers.

Ecuador and particularly Podocarpus National Park have an exciting variety of birds and habitats to entice and intrigue the naturalist traveler. Explore this and more of Southern Ecuador with Naturalist Journeys November 3-18, 2007.

Author: Cathy Cooper

Resources:
Andrews, Michael Alford, The Flight of the Condor, Boston (Little, Brown and Company), c. 1982.

Helferich, Gerard, Humboldt’s Cosmos, New York (Gotham Books), c. 2004.

Morrison, Marion, Ecuador, New York (Grolier Publishing), c.2000.

Pearson, David L., and L. Beletsky, Ecuador and its Galápagos Islands, San Diego (Academic Press), c. 2000.

The Nature Conservancy

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