Highlights of Ecuador: Mountains to Rivers, Nature & Birding
July 9-21, 2011
Summer in Ecuador? In the mountains it’s cool in the evenings and we enjoy the warmth of a fire! In the lowlands, temperatures vary little year-round. Join us to explore a lodge NEW to Naturalist Journeys, LLC, Wildsumaco, HIGHLY recommended by our colleagues. We can’t wait to get there and we’ve booked four nights so we can settle in and see the trails and sections of the Loreto Road and extensions in detail. By using this lodge, we can link two areas we visit frequently and delight in, giving you excellent variety of landscape and species at a prime time of the year to visit. It’s a perfect tour!
We begin this adventure in Quito, a lovely city set in the mountains, and spend our first days exploring west and east sides of Papallacta Pass, scenic and rich in species, including great opportunity to see Andean Condors, mountain tanagers and myriad hummingbirds. Guango and San Isidro Lodges are owned by the same family and together are some of our favorites in the country. Enjoy hospitality, wonderful home-cooked food, fantastic birding and a system of feeders that lets you examine hummingbirds – including the Giant Swordbill – at very close range.
Wildsumaco is getting absolutely rave reviews, largely as it’s built for birders. There are wonderful covered spaces to observe from, a great dining area still in view of numerous species, a common area to meet and do our checklists, hot showers and cold beer! www.wildsumaco.com
The Sumaco Biosphere Reserve is located south-east of Quito in the western Napo province. The watershed includes the Suno, Coca, Pitayacu and Pusuno Rivers. The Sumaco Volcano (12,800 feet above sea level) is a stunning, isolated peak lying to the east of the main Andean Mountain Range. It covers a large variety of ecosystems from the tropical highlands to mid-elevation montane forest descending to the tropical Amazon plains. Near the lodge, the moist broadleaf forest with an abundance of palms is the major vegetation type we explore. Wildlife is diverse, for the preserve was designed to connect well-preserved corridors of habitats from the lowlands to highlands. We are ever hopeful to see the Spectacled Bear! Elusive Jaguars use the area as well. Along the rivers we search for Torrent Ducks and a favorite trip species for many is the amazing Andean cock-of-the-rock. Indigenous people live within the reserve and the lodge provides sustainable work. Agricultural areas we bird the edges of include coffee plantations, and fruits such as Naranjilla.
From Wildsumaco, we still have some of the best of our adventure ahead of us! Three nights at incredible Sacha Lodge lets us explore Amazonia by boat and trail, while staying in very comfortable lodgings! Some of the regions best naturalists are stationed here, and we have almost immediate access to some fantastic clay licks used by parrots and macaws. Summer is a great time to go, considered to be the dry season, though expect some rain as this is lowland rainforest!
ITINERARY
Sat., July 9 Arrive Quito
Arrive today to the International Airport, Quito, where we provide transfers to our hotel. Rest up from your flight and enjoy dinner at your leisure – some of you may still be on the airplane, so those arriving early can gather at 6:30 PM and eat at the hotel, or in one of our favorite local restaurants. Those arriving early can relax at the hotel or enjoy some great shopping just a few blocks away; Greg can steer you to bookstores, wonderful delicatessens, quality craft and art galleries, sweater stores, and more! For several of you dinner may be on the plane, but those arriving in time can meet in the lobby at 6:30 PM to join the group for dinner at your leisure.
Accommodations at Hotel Sebastian, Quito
www.hotelsebastian.com
Sun., July 10 Guango
We return to Quito, then travel up in elevation to almost 14,000 feet, crossing extensive, open paramo habitat en route to our lodgings at Guango Lodge. Papallacta Pass offers us a chance to see several key higher elevation species, including Andean Condors. We pass through a fascinating change in vegetation as the road we drive crosses the Andes. We stop at key points to observe wildflowers, birds and spectacular scenery. Enjoy time at the hummingbird feeders at Guango Lodge, owned by the same family that hosts us at Cabinas San Isidro. Here we hope to observe the incredible Sword-billed Hummingbirds at close range! We also walk among the gardens and down by a rushing river, where we often find White-capped Dippers. Tonight we will have our welcome dinner.
Accommodations at Guango Lodge (B,L,D)
www.cabanasanisidro.com
Mon., July 11 and Tues., July 12 Ecuador’s Cloud Forest at San Isidro
The first morning, from Guango en route to San Isidro, we explore montane cloud forests, lush Polylepis forests, wind-stunted elfin forests, and paramo (similar to tundra) habitats. One of the most beautiful birds we may find is the Lacrimose Mountain Tanager. We may also see Viridian and Tyrian Metaltails, Rainbow-bearded Thornbills, Sword-billed Hummingbirds, Tourmaline Sunangels, Giant Conebills, Turquoise Jays, Green Jays, Gray-breasted Toucans, Black-billed Peppershrikes, and Buff-breasted and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers.
In streams we look for Torrent Ducks and White-capped Dippers. Overhead, watch for the daring Aplomado Falcons or a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles. Another specialty of Pappallacta Pass are the Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes. With luck we’ll encounter mixed flocks of tanagers, which may include three species of Mountain Tanagers as well as Golden-crowned and Black-backed Bush Tanagers – these two often act as core species of the flock.
Our lodgings at Cabinas San Isidro are surrounded by a private 1,300 forest reserve. The Bustamante family, owners of this outstanding lodge, is recognized as pioneers in 
establishing private conservation reserves and Ecuadorian eco-tourism on the northeast slope of the Andes. For forty years they have protected and welcomed guests at this picturesque cloudforest location at 6700 feet. The lodge’s website describes species such as White-capped Parrots, Powerful Woodpecker,s Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatchers, Pale-edged Flycatchers, Smoky Bush-Tyrants, Inca Jays, Black-billed Peppershrikes, Andean Solitaires and Saffron-crowned Tanagers – seen right from the doorstep! Wattled Guans are also possible, here.
San Isidro is a place to be, to enjoy the beauty of Ecuador's Cloud Forest, where we find magical species such as Golden-headed Quetzals, Masked Trogons and Green-and-black Fruiteaters. On this side of the Andes we are perched on the headwaters of the Amazon basin. The lodge and immediate surroundings boast a bird list of about 310 species, many of which are more easily found here than anywhere else in the country. On one of our days we drive down the east side of the Andes to explore a canyon at a lower elevation where we find additional species.
Birding groups have been visiting Cabañas San Isidro for years with impressive results. They report seeing rarities such as Highland Tinamous, Greater 
Scythebills and Bicolored Antvireos. The lodge has several feeding stations and a mix of trails and quiet back roads for us to explore in detail. We look for night birds, including what may turn out to be a new species of owl, closely related to Black-banded Owl.
Accommodations at San Isidro (B,L,D)
Wed., July 13 Exploring the Andes / Loreto Road / Wildsumaco Lodge
The Loreto Road has long been a favorite of birders. Driving the road and its extensions can be likened to running a scientific transect to experience the greatest array of habitats of the Andes. Some species are found only at certain elevations and these will be our target species. Really, we just enjoy the day immensely, taking in trees covered by bromeliads, raptors overhead, rural life and species the colors of the rainbow.
From the lodge’s website: “Due to its location on the Equator, the steep Andean Foothills, and the close proximity of the Amazon, the Sumaco area holds one of the richest avifaunas in the world. A wonderful mix of cloudforest species, foothill specialties, and typically 
Amazonian birds share Wildsumaco's lush subtropical rainforest with a myriad of other animals. Many of the birds here are rare, endangered, or very difficult to see elsewhere.”
Accommodations at Wildsumaco Lodge (B,L,D )
Thurs. July 14, Fri., July 15 & Sat., July 16 Exploring from Wildsumaco Lodge
The lodge website describes the setting well: “Set on a ridge in the Andes' Eastern Foothills, Wildsumaco Lodge has panoramic views reaching across the Rio Pucuno Valley and to the Andesbeyond. On clear days the distant snow-covered heights of El Altar, Tungurahua, and Antisana Volcanoes glow white against the blue sky. North of thelodge is Sumaco National Park, and often the volcano Sumaco can be seen peeking through the clouds and 
mist surrounding its heights. From other parts of our reserve you can look out south and east to Napo Galeras National Park, and let your eyes and imagination wander to the far-off Amazonian lowlands spreading out beyond. Wildsumaco Lodge is located at a comfortable elevation of about 1400m (4600 feet), and our forest reserve ranges from 1200 to 1500m (3900 to 4900 feet).”
The lodge helps support the Rio Pucuno Foundation. Twenty-six species of hummingbirds come in to the feeders, and photography is ridiculously easy. Indeed, if you want some R and R, you are welcome to stay and relax and you’ll find a great number of species, including Scarlet-breasted Fruiteaters and other such spectacularly colored species.
Exploring near the lodge, we hope to find Gray-tailed Pihas, along a trail named for the species.For those that love to get into the forest, this is what the lodge tells us about 
sightings along their trails: “Birds we may find include: Blue-rumped Manakin, and Chestnut-crowned Gnateater. Short-tailed Antthrush and Wing-banded Wren often sing, while more uncommon species like Gray-throated Leaftosser and Plain-backed Antpittas are seen occasionally, and more often heard. The very rare Yellow-throated Spadebill has territories along several of our trails, and at any time the endangered Military Macaw or rare Spot-winged Parrotlet might fly by, or Black Hawk-Eagle soar overhead.”
Accommodations at Wildsumaco Lodge (B,L,D )
Sun., July 17 Wildsumaco / Drive to Coca / Sacha Lodge
We get an early start as today we meet our dugout canoes to venture down the Napo River to Sacha Lodge. But first we explore more of the Lower Loreto Road en route to Coca. Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers or Magpie Tanagers may catch our eye. We take a picnic with us, and by afternoon the breeze is blowing on our faces as we motor along the Napo, one of the major tributaries of the Amazon. Sacha is situated on a 5000 acre private reserve. We travel a couple hours downriver, and then walk a boardwalk through lovely flooded palm forest to reach the lodge. And then transfer to smaller canoes on Pilchicocha Lake. Once here we are in a quiet (save the noises of nature), incredible realm. Sacha has operated since 1992 and they pay attention to all details of keeping us comfortable, while letting us get out to explore. Their canopy system is excellent and views of species from there, such as Pygmy Marmosets at close range, are one of the trip highlights. www.sachalodge.com
Accommodations at Sacha Lodge ( B,L,D )
Mon., July 18 and Tues., July 19 Sacha Lodge / Lowland Tropical Forests, Parrots, Canopy Walkway & More
Legendary birding is RIGHT outside our doors! Almost six hundred species of birds have been recorded! A very few of the two hundred or more we may find in our time there include specialties like Zigzag Herons, Hoatzins, Amazonian Umbrellabirds, White-crowned Manakins, Chestnut-eared Aracaris, barbets, becards, and beautiful Paradise Tanagers. Eight species of primates occur in the area, including Red Howler Monkeys, which provide us with daily wake-up calls.
One morning we go out early, traveling by boat to the edge of Yasuni National Forest and an exceptional mineral lick for parrots and macaws. Expert local bird guides take us on walks, and to the canopy tower and walkway at various morning and evening times. Mid-day is a great time to relax, photograph hummingbirds and butterflies, and catch up on your field notes. We can listen and look for Crested Owls and Great Potoos on a night walk. By boat, we find birds of the rivers and varzea (seasonally-flooded) forests such as Boat-billed Herons, Silvered Antbirds and Black-capped Donacobius.
The days are ours to design with the advice of our local experts. Some may want to go out very early to try for secretive antbirds, Three-toed Sloths and possibly even Tapir! Would you like to fish for piranha? After every outing and event, we are warmly welcomed back by the Lodge staff and the chef will keep you happy!
Accommodations at Sacha Lodge (B,L,D, all days)
Wed., July 20 Napo River to Coca / Flight to Quito
Today we return upriver by canoe, and take a mid-day flight over the Andes back to Quito, where we to settle into accommodations at the Hotel Sebastian. This flight is astonishing, lending views of unbroken rainforest of Ecuador’s Amazonia on the wetter, east side of the Andes, and then a quick transition to the drier and more settled areas near Quito. Depending on the time of our arrival and interests of the group, we can see a bit of the city, visit a handicrafts market, or simply relax, repack and get ready for a festive final dinner together.
Accommodations at Hotel Sebastian (B,L,D)
Thurs., July 21 Departures
You can leave at a time convenient for you this morning, just remember they recommend you be at the airport 2-3 hours ahead of your departure.
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Cost of the Journey:
Cost of the journey is $3495.00 from Quito, based on double occupancy. This cost includes all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, professional guide services, other park and program entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses.
Tour cost does not include: round-trip transportation from your home city to Quito, optional activities or items of a personal nature such as: laundry, telephone charges, maid gratuities or beverages from the bar.
Single supplement is TBD.
Group Size: Tour price is based on 8 persons, with fewer than 8 a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply.
Travel Arrangements:
More information coming soon!
Photo Credits:
Masked Trogon, Squirrel Monkey, Hoatzin and Tropical Hibiscus, Greg Smith; Loreto Road Falls, Xavier Munoz; Yellow-rumped Cacique, Bud Ferguson and Snail Kite; all other photos by Peg Abbott.
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