Natural Hawaii
February 13-25, 2011

 

Guide: Doug Pratt

Recent Trip Report

Recent Species List (N/A)

Journey to the mid-Pacific Ocean, where the idyllic islands of Hawaii offer breathtaking scenery, impressive seabird colonies, fascinating endemic birds and plants, rich Polynesian culture, and a chance to see the world's most active volcano. You will quickly find out that Hawaii is more than golden beaches, swaying palm trees and luxury resorts.  It is a land rich in history with a great variety of landscapes including snow-covered mountains, luxuriant forests, extensive lava flows and semi-deserts, lovely beaches, cascading waterfalls, pounding surf and calm turquoise waters. Best of all, the tour will be led by Doug Pratt who is a world-renowned authority on Hawaii.  He is author of The Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific, The Hawaiian Honeycreepers, Pocket Guide to Hawai‘i’s Birds, Pocket Guide to Hawai‘i’s Trees and Shrubs, Enjoying Birds and Other Wildlife in Hawaii, compiler of Voices of Hawai‘i’s Birds, and illustrator of Hawaii:  the Ecotraveller’s Wildlife Guide. You might say he wrote the book on Hawaii!  Doug is also an authority on island biogeography and evolution, and is well-versed in the human culture and history of the Hawaiian Islands.  This is not just a birding tour, although we have a good chance of seeing all the birds that anyone can reasonably expect on the islands we visit.  This is a tried and true itinerary, with something for everyone. Book now – this special tour is limited to 7 participants and Doug.

The Hawaiian archipelago consists of over 120 seamounts, islands and atolls spreading across the Pacific Ocean from Midway in the northwest to Hawaii in the southeast. We will visit three of the seven inhabited islands:  Hawaii (the Big Island), Maui, and Kauai. We will learn the history of the islands from their development over a 'hot spot' in the Pacific Plate, to the heavily forested and sculpted landscapes we see today. We will explore how plants and animals colonized and evolved into many species.  As we visit historic and pre-historic sites, we witness the changes brought by man, starting with the influences of the early Polynesians over 1,000 years ago, through the arrival of Europeans with Captain Cook 200 years ago, to the vast and ongoing changes wrought by modern life. Hawaii has become the poster child for conservation efforts worldwide, and our tour will highlight what has been lost, what has been learned, and what is planned for the future.

Our journey begins in Maui and ends in Kauai. In Maui, the second largest island,  we will visit Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge to look for migrant shorebirds and waterfowl, the spectacular aquarium at the Maui Ocean Center, and the dormant volcano Haleakala. Pending permission, we will hike into The Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve, where we will witness a nearly pristine Hawaiian rainforest that harbors several endemic endangered species. We then move to Hawaii, the youngest and largest of the islands, where several recently active volcanoes have produced impressive lava flows. We have five nights on this island; three in Kona, whence we will journey with Hawaii Forest & Trail to the Saddle Road and Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge, and two nights at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, where we have a chance to see an active lava flow and to learn about the earliest stages of island formation.  Finally we will travel to Kauai, the 'Garden Isle', one of the world’s lushest and most beautiful tropical islands, where Jurassic Park was filmed. We have four nights on this wildest of the 4 main islands, a treasure of biodiversity. We'll walk the trails of Alakai Swamp and Pihea, visit incredible Waimea Canyon, enjoy a boat trip along the scenic Na Pali Coast Coast and out to Lehua Islet where we have the opportunity to snorkel and swim with monk seals, and visit Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge to see nesting Red-footed Boobies and other seabirds. All too soon, we must connect with our flights to the mainland and home.

 

ITINERARY

Sun., Feb. 13 Arrival in Maui / Kanaha Pond Sanctuary
It is possible to fly direct to Maui, and our tour begins here and ends in Kauai.
Please note: Since many of the flights connect through Honolulu on the island of Oahu, some may wish to come in a few days early to take in some of the attractions, such as the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor, Bishop Museum, or Foster Gardens, that will not be covered by the tour.

We meet at 2:00 PM  at Maui’s Kahului Airport. Consider this a field day, as close to the airport, we visit Kanaha Pond Wildlife Sanctuary to look for native waterbirds as well as migratory shorebirds and ducks.  We then drive along the coast, then check into our hotel where we enjoy a welcome dinner and an introduction to a great journey ahead.
Accommodations on Maui (D)

Mon., Feb. 14 Maui / Kealia Pond NWR
Maui is named for the demigod who snared the sun and held it in place until it promised to move more slowly across the sky. This is the second largest island, formed by two mountains connected by a low isthmus, and it offers us diverse landscapes and superb scenery with Haleakala, the third highest mountain in Hawaii, a spectacular backdrop.

After breakfast, we take a birding excursion to nearby Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, where we will scope the ponds for such migrants as Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Pectoral Sandpiper, Long-billed Dowitcher, or other shorebirds. We could turn up some rarities because Kealia is a well-known “migrant trap.”

The rest of the day we explore the summit of Haleakala, the world's largest dormant volcano.  It is a geological wonder; with a stunning crater 10 miles long and 2  miles wide. It last erupted just over 200 years ago. The magnificent panoramic view at the summit reveals a seeming moonscape where the remarkable Silversword plant grows, while on a clear day the looming silhouette of the Big Island can be seen far to the southeast. We explore varied habitats, including ranchlands, alien tree plantations, native subalpine scrub and the alpine zone in search of Sky Lark, Common Pheasant, Short-eared Owl, and Chukar. On the way home, we stop again at Kula Lodge for dinner, where at the day's end we enjoy each other' s company and the sunset views.
Accommodations on Maui  (B,L,D)

Tues., Feb. 15 Maui / Haleakala National Park
We will rise early and drive to Kula Lodge for breakfast on the slopes of Haleakala  (pronounced HA-lay-ah-kah-LAH). The lower slopes hold eucalyptus groves and open pastures with large cattle ranches.  After breakfast, we will drive up to Haleakala National Park and spend most of the day on a hike with backpack lunch into The Nature Conservancy’s adjacent Waikamoi Preserve to search for 6 species of honeycreeper, including 3 Maui endemics:  ‘Akohekohe, Maui Parrotbill, and Maui ‘Alauahio.   They are joined by the more widespread crimson ‘Apapane, scarlet-and-black ‘I‘iwi, and yellow-green Hawai‘i ‘Amakihi. The divergence of Hawaiian honeycreepers even exceeds that of the famous Darwin's Finches of the Galapagos Islands. These birds are found in a spectacular native cloudforest free of alien weeds and festooned with mosses and epiphytes, brightened by the crimson flowers of the dominant ‘ohi‘a-lehua tree.  We will begin to learn the native plants, with some intriguing examples of island evolutionary processes.
Accommodations on Maui  (B,L)

Wed., Feb. 16 Maui / Hawaii (Kona side)
After breakfast we will visit the impressive aquarium at the Maui Ocean Center to acquaint ourselves with the underwater life we will be seeing later in our journey.  This is a relatively new facility and one of the nation’s best for showing the life of a coral reef. At midday, we will fly to the Kona Coast of the Big Island of Hawai‘i.  Upon arrival we take a short hike into Aimakapa Pond in Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park between the airport and our hotel. Many of the same pond birds as at Kealia may be present, as well as green sea turtles on the beach.  The rest of the afternoon is your own, to explore the lovely town of Kailua, go snorkeling at a nearby beach, or go birding with Doug.  You will have a wide variety of restaurants to choose from for dinner.
Accommodations at Kona Seaside Hotel (B,L)

Thurs., Feb. 17 Hawaii / Puu Laau, S. Kohala 
Today we continue our explorations of the Big Island with our local experts from Hawaii Forest & Trail. First, we visit Pu'u La'au, a native dry mamane-naio forest locality that is the heart of the range of the endangered Palila, a honeycreeper that still looks much like the finch ancestor of the group.  The Palila is adapted for eating the green seeds of the mamane tree, a legume with showy yellow flowers.   For the rest of the day, we will explore the ranch lands of South Kohala, where we will look for a variety of game birds (3 francolins, 2 pheasants, 2 quails, turkey, and even a sandgrouse have been introduced), Nene, Hawaiian Hawk, Short-eared Owl, several waxbills and finches, including the beautiful Red Avadavat, and feral donkeys. Evening free with your choice of restaurants.
Accommodations at Kona Seaside Hotel (B,L)

Fri., Feb. 18 Hawaii:  Saddle Rd., Hakalau Forest
Today we enjoy an excursion to Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge on the eastern, windward slope of Mauna Kea with local experts from Hawaii Forest & Trail.  This wilderness reserve was set aside in 1985 to protect endangered forest birds and their rainforest habitat, the first such refuge in the system. It harbors a superb avifauna, rich in species and high indensity.  As many as 6 endangered species occur here in some of the finest koa and ‘ohi‘a forest in the state. We hope to see the Hawaiian Hawk, a variety of game birds, Short-eared Owl, Nene, Oma‘o, Hawai‘i 'Elepaio, ‘Apapane, 'I'iwi, Hawai‘i 'Amakihi, Hawai‘i 'Akepa, Hawai‘i Creeper, 'Akiapola'au (the Rube Goldberg woodpecker!), and possibly Hawaiian Hoary Bat.  Again, for dinner, you have your choice of local eateries.
Accommodations at Kona Seaside Hotel (B,L,)

Sat., Feb. 19 Hawaii:  Kona to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Today we loop around the southern end of the Big Island, a fantastic drive with much to see.  We drive south along the coast, stopping first at Bay View Coffee Farms where we will see how Kona coffee is grown and processed. We then visit Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park where, up until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke a kapu (=taboo, an ancient prohibition) could avoid certain death by fleeing to this place of refuge or "pu`uhonua,” undergo a purification rite, and eventually return to society.  The grounds just outside the Great Wall that encloses the pu`uhonua were home to several generations of powerful chiefs. This 182-acre park, established in 1961, includes a complex of archeological sites including: temple platforms, royal fishponds, and coastal village sites.

After a picnic lunch, we visit South Point, passing through grazing lands to the southern-most point in the United States.  Enjoy a chance to stand at the edge of the world, watching the waves crash over lava rocks as we look for passing seabirds. Further along, Punalu'u Black Sand Beach is one of the most picturesque conceivable, with pulverized lava “sand” and tall, leaning coconut palms.  It is an important nesting area for Green Sea Turtles which are usually easy to spot  as they scour the shoreline rocks for algae. As we leave the shoreline, we climb upward eventually reaching Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Accommodations at the Hale Ohia Cottages (B,L,D)
www.haleohia.com

Sun., Feb. 20 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Kilauea Volcano has been erupting continuously since 1983, and geologists think the current eruption could last many more years. The landscape it creates is unlike any other on Earth. Visitors come to witness the fiery stream of lava as it makes its way to the Pacific Ocean. See first-hand the power of forces at work and learn more about its significance to native Hawaiians.  The current eruption has added over 500 acres to the island of Hawaii. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park protects both Kilauea and Mauna Loa Volcanoes. Mauna Loa is the most massive mountain on earth and taller than Everest, if measured from its base on the ocean floor.  Kilauea, in addition to the fantastic and bizarre lava formations, craters, pits, and lava tubes, supports habitats from lush rain forests to stark acid-rain deserts. Our exploration of the park will include the Visitor Center, Volcano Art Center, Jaggar Museum and Volcano Observatory, Halema'uma'u Crater, Chain of Craters Road, and Holei Sea Arches.  We will maintain some flexibility in order to take advantage of any red lava that may be visible during our visit.  Wildlife may include Nene, Apapane, Oma‘o, Hawaiian Hawk, and White-tailed Tropicbird around Kilauea’s caldera and Black Noddy along the sea cliffs. Accommodations at Hale Ohia Cottages (B,L,D)

Mon., Feb. 21 Hawaii (Hilo area) / Kauai
We'll start our day by checking out of the hotel before breakfast for an early walk into Thurston Lava Tube.  We then drive the 30 miles to Hilo and stop at Ken’s Pancake House, a local landmark that has been in business since before Doug’s first Hawaii trip in 1974!  After breakfast, we visit two waterfowl ponds, Waiakea and Loko Waka, to look for unusual waterfowl visitors such as White-fronted and Cackling geese, both of which are regular here.  We then take a scenic drive up the Hamakua Coast and visit Onomea Bay and Akaka Falls State Park.  In the afternoon we catch a flight from Hilo airport to Lihue on Kaua‘i.  Late afternoon and evening at your leisure.
Accommodations on Kauai (B,L)

Tues., Feb. 22 Kauai:  Koke‘e and Waimea Canyon       
Kauai, the smallest of the islands we visit, retains the richest native flora and fauna of the large islands.  The summit of Wai‘ale‘ale may be the wettest place on Earth, which feeds the so-called Alaka‘i “Swamp,” actually a montane rainforest, and then carves Waimea Canyon,  which Mark Twain called “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Kauai is a naturalist's dream, where one can find many endemic plant and birds species against a background of stunning landscapes.  Les Beletsky, in the Ecotraveller's Wildlife Guide to Hawaii, says the beauty of this place as reason enough to make a trip to the islands, and Doug calls the view into Kalalau Valley the finest single landscape in the entire Pacific. Amid the splendor, we will look for endemic birds such as ‘Anianiau, Kaua‘i ‘Amakihi, and Kaua‘i ‘Elepaio, and plants such as the amazing ‘iliau, related to Maui’s silversword.  We should also see Short-eared Owls and White-tailed Tropicbirds soaring in Waimea Canyon, and wild goats on the cliffs.  We will visit the little Koke‘e Museum, where Red Junglefowl cavort on the lawn, and do some hiking along local trails in Koke‘e State Park.
Accommodations on Kauai (B,L)

Wed., Feb. 23 Kauai:  North Shore
This morning enjoy leisurely visits to Wailua and Opaeka'a Falls, where picturesque cascades plunge down cliff faces into deep pools. We visit Wailua Reservoir and Keahua Arboretum, then head north to Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, where Red-footed Boobies nest in trees, Laysan Albatrosses on the surface, and Wedge-tailed Shearwaters in burrows in the soft soil of Kilauea Point overlooking the ocean. The refuge, established in 1985 to provide habitat for nesting seabirds, native coastal plants and a re-introduced population of Nene, has become the island’s most popular visitor attraction.  Great Frigatebirds, Brown Boobies, and Red-tailed and White-tailed Tropicbirds add to the spectacular aerial show while humpback whales, Green Sea Turtles, Hawaiian monk seals (sometimes), and spinner dolphins can be seen in the water. After tearing yourself away from the sea cliffs, picturesque lighthouse and pounding surf, enjoy lunch in Princeville.  Nearby Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, our next stop, was established in 1972 to save the taro fields that provide habitat for freshwater birds such as the Hawaiian Stilt, Hawaiian Coot, Common Moorhen and Hawaiian Duck.  Then it is on to the scenic coral sand beaches of Ha'ena State Park. Enjoy views of the spectacular Na Pali Coast while swimming and snorkeling before returning to our hotel.  Those who prefer not to swim may take an optional tour of nearby Limahuli Gardens, a branch of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, with wonderful scenery and a fine collection of native plants.  On this day we also hope to find Hwameis, Western Meadowlarks, and Greater Necklaced Laughing-thrushes as we pass through lowland rainforest and pasturelands.  
Accommodations on Kauai  (B,L)

Thurs., Feb. 24 Kauai: Boat trip to Lehua Islet
Today we rise very early and drive to Port Allen on Kaua‘i‘s south shore to take our only boat trip of the tour aboard a large and stable catamaran.  Breakfast is on the boat.  We will see waterfalls and lush valleys and sea caves along the Na Pali Coast, then cross the channel to Lehua Islet off the north end of Ni‘ihau, the so-called Forbidden Isle.  Crossing the channel, we will look for Humpback Whales, Spinner Dolphins, Pacific Bottlenose Dolphins, Rough-toothed Dolphins, Brown, Masked, and Red-footed Boobies, Brown and Black Noddies, Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Wedge-tailed, Sooty, Newell's and other shearwaters, Black-winged, Hawaiian, and Mottled Petrels, and Band-rumped Storm-Petrels.  When we arrive at Lehua, we will observe the nesting seabirds for a while, then the crew will assist and instruct us in snorkeling, so we can relax, float, and watch the comings and goings of the aquatic world. You will likely be greeted in the water by one of the resident Hawaiian Monk Seals or Green Sea Turtles, whose aquatic grace is amazing. After snorkeling, the crew will have a lunch waiting for us, and we will learn about the island, the people and history of Niihau and Kauai.   We'll return to port mid-afternoon, and the rest of the day will be available for optional activities to be decided at the time.  In the evening, we will have our farewell dinner.
Accommodations on Kauai (B,L,D)

Fri., Feb. 25 Returns to mainland
Today will be devoted to making our connections for homeward-bound flights.  Those who have late flights may wish to try a helicopter flight, shop for gifts or souvenirs, or just relax.   Most flights will be red-eyes that leave from Honolulu in the early evening, arriving the next morning at a mainland airport.  (B)

 

PLAN AHEAD! Protect yourself with Access America Travel Insurance. Offset your Carbon Footprint. Show us the receipt and we'll take 50% - up to $50.00 - of your carbon offset fee off your final payment! COST OF THE JOURNEY The cost of this journey is $4890.00 arriving Maui, departing Kauai. This cost is based on double occupancy and includes all accommodations; meals as specified in the itinerary, two inter-island air segments: Maui-Hawaii and Hawaii-Kauai, group airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. The cost is based on a minimum number of 6 participants, with fewer a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. The cost does not include transportation to or from your home to Hawaii, or items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone charges, porterage, maid gratuities or beverages from the bar. Single supplement (as available) is $995.00. Travel Planning A good number of airlines service Maui. Plan to arrive Kahului Airport, Maui no later than 2:00 PM on Feb. 13, and plan to depart Kauai's Lihu'e Airport at a time convenient for you on Feb. 25. If you arrive early or stay on after the trip in Oahu, we can help you with hotel recommendations, and suggestions for restaurants and activities. Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery. Photo Credits: Sunset, Golden Plover, Hawaiian Coot, Nene, Pac. Green Sea Turtle and Laysan Albatross, Tony Beck (www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony); Akohekohe, Iiwi, Elepaio, Bristle-thighed Curlew, Apapane, Booby in flight and Fairy Terns, Tom Dove; all other images by Peg Abbott.

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