Mazatlan / Mexico’s Tufted Jay Preserve
November 16-23, 2008
with P.D. Hulce

 

This journey to Mazatlan, a popular resort town on the west coast of Mexico, in combination with neighboring Sierra Madres and the newly established Tufted Jay Preserve, offers us a great quick getaway to an exotic birding location. Long prized by birders and ecologists, a unique forest area near the village of El Palmito, at the Barranca Rancho Liebre is now protected. Ecotourism revenue is its hope for the future and our visit supports this endeavor. By first visiting coastal habitats of Mazatlan and then driving up the winding mountain highway into the Sierra Madres to the Tufted Jay Preserve we experience three different eco-zones that each hold distinct birding opportunities.

Biologically rich coastal estuaries and mangrove forests are intertwined with resort developments on Mazatlan’s scenic coastline and we explore these and some offshore seabird islands by boat before going up the mountains. Just out of town, a drive up the spectacular Durango Highway takes us deep into the rugged Sierra Madres on one of the most scenic routes in Mexico. Mazatlan is in the state of Sinaloa which has over 400 species of birds. On a day trip east of El Palmito, the small village that hosts our stay at the Tufted Jay Preserve, we travel beyond forests onto high Chihuahuan desert plateau lands, into the state of Durango.

At the beginning and end of our journey enjoy resort comforts and great fresh seafood as we visit Mazatlan, a historical seaport replete with coastal lagoons that support abundant wading and shorebirds. The city is framed by tropical thorn scrub and deciduous forests that extend from foothills of the Sierra Madre. Enjoy some local cuisine and shopping, and time to relax on the beach before we head to the mountains. At the Tufted Jay Preserve (see Profile: Tufted Jay Preserve at the end of this itinerary) we enjoy warm hospitality for four nights in simple lodgings -- quaint wooden cabins with private rooms and shared bath. The preserve is 12,355 acres, established in a peaceful and beautiful setting in the cool pine oak forests. In addition to searching out the area’s unique bird species, we discover the village of El Palmito's hospitality as the ejido (collective) of El Palmito will be providing meals while we stay at the preserve.

Our goal is to support local ecotourism as we show you a good number of the area's 35 endemic bird species, including the Tufted Jay for which the Preserve was set aside. In winter this often elusive bird often hangs out with resident Steller’s Jays. Marvel at its striking plumage as you learn more about its cooperative breeding system and its affinity with other Central and South American Jays. A host of other Mexican specialties can be found in the area as well – we even make an effort to find the rare and very local Sierra Madre Sparrow.

Our highly experienced guide, P.D. Hulce, hopes to show you the ecological significance and unique plants and animals of this section of Mexico’s Sierra Madres. Don’t miss this great February getaway!

ITINERARY

Sun., Nov. 16 Arrival in Mazatlan
Plan to fly to Mazatlan in the morning to meet P.D. Hulce and our group at the airport no later than 2:00 P.M. Mazatlan, the Aztec word for “land of the deer”, is a former state capital and a major port for the Mexican Pacific. Even though it hosts Mexico’s largest shrimp and fishing boat fleet, the major source of income today is tourism. This afternoon we bird a series of small canals, shrimp ponds and scrub habitat along the airport road, as we drive to our hotel in Mazatlan. We look for Least Grebe, Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Wood Stork, Gray Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Crested Caracara, Thick-billed Kingbird, Mangrove Swallow, Sinaloa Crow and other species.
At our hotel, relax and settle in before enjoying a welcome dinner.
Accommodations in Mazatlan (D)

Mon., Nov. 17 Mazatlan Lowland Pacific Forests / Mazatlan
After breakfast, we explore the lowland tropical scrub and forest around Mazatlan, starting early to beat the heat as the afternoon may become hot. We hope to see Snail Kite, Rufous-bellied Chachalaca, Elegant Quail, Mexican Parrotlet, Golden-cheeked Woodpecker, Buff-breasted Flycatcher, Black-throated Magpie-Jay, Purplish-backed Jay, Yellow-winged Cacique, and good numbers of butterflies, including crackers, swallowtails, skippers, etc. In the afternoon take time to enjoy a swim in the pool, or to explore uptown Mazatlan at your leisure. Dinner is either at our hotel or at a local restaurant of your choice this evening.
Accommodations in Mazatlan (B,L)

Tue., Nov. 18 Durango Road to Tufted Jay Preserve / Sierra Madres
After breakfast we leave the city to drive and bird our way up the dramatically scenic Durango Highway, where mountain views abound. We should arrive at the Tufted Jay Preserve mid afternoon. It’s about a two hour drive, but we take it at a birder’s pace! Some of the key species of this region we look for include Military Macaw, Bumblebee Hummingbird, White-striped Woodcreeper, Tufted Jay (target bird of the trip due to its highly restricted range), Happy Wren, Golden Vireo, Red-headed Tanager, and other species. Enjoy the cool breeze, smell of pines and peaceful rural surroundings. Dinner and meals for the rest of our time here are as authentic as possible, carefully prepared for us by the nearby ejido (cooperative village) of Palmito.
Accommodations at Tufted Jay Preserve, Palmito (B, L, D)

Wed., Nov. 19 Tufted Jay Preserve all day!
Wake to sounds of lush forests of the Sierra Madres. Birding at the preserve is idyllic as we are in the best habitat and do not have to drive anywhere! We hope to sight Williamson's Sapsucker, Gray-crowned Woodpecker, White-eared Hummingbird, Sparkling-tailed Woodstar, the highly secretive Blue Mockingbird, Brown-backed Solitaire, Tufted Flycatcher, Mountain Trogon, Mountain Pygmy-Owl, Mottled Owl, and some 15 species of warblers including Sierra Madrean specialties such as Red-faced, Painted Redstart, Crescent-chested Warbler, Slate-throated Redstart, Olive Warbler, and Red Warbler! Members of the ejido provide our meals; in the evening we tally up our sightings, which should be many!
Accommodations at Tufted Jay Preserve, Palmito. (B, L, D)

Thurs., Nov. 20 Tufted Jay Preserve / Durango
Today you can explore areas of the preserve at your leisure, or join an optional 2 hour drive into Durango to seek the Sierra Madre Sparrow of drier scrub habitats. While it’s a lot of driving time, the road passes through beautiful forest for about 50km, with striking vistas at several pullouts. We then see a dramatic habitat change as we top out on the Mexican Plateau; more arid lands with Chihuahuan Desert scrub vegetation and agricultural fields.

To find the Sierra Madre Sparrow, we walk in a pristine field looking for this globally endangered and often difficult to find species. It’s never a guarantee, but we’ve had good luck in past years. Also possible are sightings of Striped Sparrow and White-naped Swift. We take a packed lunch today and return for a delightful dinner catered by the ejido at the preserve.
Accommodations at Tufted Jay Preserve, Palmito. (B, L, D)

Fri., Nov. 21 Tufted Jay Preserve / Local Birding Hotspots
We will bird in areas close to the preserve including the Barranco San Diego, the Petaca or Panuco Road., (depending on whether we are missing low elevation or higher elevtion species, and several other spots. We hope to find Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Pine Flycatcher, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Black-headed Siskin, Hooded Grosbeak, Rufous-capped Brush Finch and up to 14 species of warblers. Marvel at the variety of pines, oaks, and shrubs that comprise the forest understory.
Accommodations at Tufted Jay Preserve, Palmito. (B, L, D)

Sat., Nov. 22 Mazatlan
Today we leave the Tufted Jay Preserve and hospitality of the lovely community of El Palmito, and work our way back to Mazatlan. We’ll check a lower elevation site for Lesser Roadrunner, Cinnamon Hummingbird and Five-striped Sparrow en route. In the afternoon, we have scheduled a boat trip to offshore rocks known as Dos Hermanos (the Two Brothers). Here we find both Brown and Blue-footed Boobies by the dozens! Mazatlan's long white sandy beaches are beautiful against the blue Sea of Cortez – with luck we’ll find shorebirds and offshore some wintering loons, grebes and Brown Pelican. If time permits we also bird a new city park in Mazatlan in late afternoon where we may find Berylline Hummingbird, Cinnamon-rumped Seedeater, and 3 or 4 more species of warblers.

Enjoy a farewell dinner and a final tally of species observed at a favorite seafood restaurant.
Accommodations in Mazatlan. (B,L,D)

Sun., Nov. 23 Departures from Mazatlan
Today after breakfast we bird back roads as we travel to the airport. In a week who knows what may have appeared! We hope to see Orange-fronted Parakeet, Mexican Parrotlet, Sinoloa Wren, Ruddy Ground-Dove, and other species.

At this time, we plan to arrive at the airport at approximately 11:00 am for flights from 1:00 P.M. on. If you must leave Mazatlan on an earlier flight, we can arrange a taxi for you at additional cost. (B)

 

Tour Cost and Travel Arrangements COST OF THE JOURNEY The cost of the journey is $1825.00 from Mazatlan. This cost is based on double occupancy and includes: all accommodations, most meals as specified in the itinerary (one free dinner), group airport transfers, transportation in Mexico, park and preserve entrance fees, and miscellaneous program costs. This cost is based on a minimum of 8 persons. If there are fewer than 8, a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300.00) may apply. It does not include items of a personal nature such as beverages from the bar, porterage, laundry, phone calls, or gift items. We also recommend gratuities for our local drivers and guides, which are left to your discretion. Single supplement is $195.00.   TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS Mazatlan is served by a number of major carriers and their partners, including US Airways, Continental, Delta , United , Northwest , Alaska Airlines and Aeromexico. Please arrive prior to dinner on Feb. 10th. We recommend trying to make a morning arrival so you have time to relax, but know that is not possible from all locations. If you need to come in the day previous, we can help with arrangements and a private transfer. Please plan to depart any time after NOON on Nov. 23. Photo Credits: Snail Kite, Bud Ferguson; Collared Redstart and Snowy Egret, Tony Beck - www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; Tufted Jay Preserve photos, www.reserva-chara-pinta.org; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

 

Profile: Tufted Jay Preserve
www.reserva-chara-pinta.org

The Tufted Jay Preserve became reality in 2005 when the first guests stayed in the quaint wooden cabins and tents. Logging had been a way of life for the area since the Durango Road was finished in the 1950s. This road bisects the mountains of the Sierra Madre. The logging collective of Palmito was formed in 1962 but these people realized the threat of logging to the endemic birds.

Andrew Charles Grayson “Audubon of the West” moved from California to Mazatlan in the 1850s to illustrate the birds of that area. He lived in Mazatlan for 10 years and tried unsuccessfully to get support from the new Smithsonian Institute and the Mexican government to publish his work. Today his works are seeing renewed interest and are at occasional museum displays.

More recently, author Peter Alden's book Finding Birds in Western Mexico, a Guide to the States of Sonora, Sinaloa and Nayarit, published in 1969, has also brought interest in the endemics of the area. In 2001, the Tufted Jay was illustrated on a Mexican postage stamp highlighting endangered species.

Thanks to a coalition of the Department of Forestry, a Mazatlan Birding Company, Sendero, the Secretary of Agriculture, the cooperative of Palmito and others, logging was stopped for 30 years in December of 2004. Ecotourism would be the goal rather than logging.

The preserve in stage one is 12,355 acres of pine oak woodlands. There are trails for birding and nature walks. There are other trails for horseback riding. Stage two hopes to add even more acreage to the preserve and add a restaurant for the guests.

The Tufted Jay Preserve is about a 2 hour drive from Mazatlan on the west coast of Mexico. The elevation is more than 6500 feet above sea level. On a clear day you can see all the way to the coast and the seaport of Mazatlan.

Staying up on the mountain is the very best way to bird this area. Although in its infancy, the facilities at the Tufted Jay Preserve are more than adequate. Each cabin has two bedrooms, which can each sleep two - three persons comfortably. The cabins have indoor bathrooms with showers. They have a large living room and a small kitchenette. The members of the ejido (collective) of Palmito, the nearest town, prepare meals for the preserve guests if prior arrangements are made.

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