DEATH VALLEY / MOJAVE DESERT SPRING
March 13-21, 2010

 

Guide: Greg Smith

Recent Trip Report

Recent Species List N/A

Death Valley: this foreboding yet intriguing name belies the hidden wonders of this two million-acre national park.  From the Badwater Basin, 282 feet below sea level, to the 11,049-foot height of Telescope Peak, this park and surrounding areas of the Mojave Desert offer a diverse and exciting world to discover.  With adequate winter rains, spring wildflowers decorate the landscape with every color of the rainbow.

Nearly 1,000 different species of plants have been recorded in the diverse habitats of the Death Valley, including 19 species of cacti and 23 species endemic to the park.  More than 380 springs in the park provide habitat to five species of Desert Pupfish, relict populations from a wetter time in the region’s long history.  The valley is a geologist’s paradise, with nearly two billion years of history recorded in the rocks.  Layers of sandstone and limestone tell of times of great inland seas while volcanic features bear testimony to centuries of dynamic change.

Walk amid sand dunes, water-sculpted canyons and salt pans remaining from ancient seas, lush hidden springs and cool mountain forests.  Look for Ring-tailed Cats, Kit Foxes, Kangaroo Rats, Black-tailed Jackrabbits, and Desert Bighorn Sheep.  Listen for sounds of desert birds in the clear morning air: Gambel’s Quail, Rock Wrens, Western Kingbirds, phoebes, and flycatchers. Photographic opportunities abound, particularly in the magical, subtle light of dawn and dusk.  Blue skies frame the rugged Panamint Mountains of Death Valley, a sister range to the Sierras that reaches over 11,000 feet.  On the mountain slopes ancient bristlecone pines cling to windy ridges and Desert Bighorns find refuge from summer heat.

Some great birding sites, and two Nevada Important Bird Areas lie close to Las Vegas.  We visit Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, home to endangered Devil’s Hole Pupfish and Desert Wildlife Refuge, established to protect Desert Bighorn Sheep.  Our journey ends with a trip up the scenic loop road up Mt. Charleston, where we find more classic species of the Western Mountains such as Steller’s Jays, Clark’s Nutcrackers and possibly Northern Goshawks. 

We also take in some local culture and color – visiting local restaurants and the Amargosa Opera House. Miners, ranchers, and the Western Shoshone people all have left traces of their lives in the Mojave Desert Region; we pass by old mine sites and look for petroglyphs etched in rock walls on our hikes.  The average temperatures in March are in the 70s to 80s (though cooler in the mountains)– so shed your winter gear and join us as we explore the spectacular Mojave Desert in the Spring.

 

ITINERARY

Sat., Mar. 13 Arrival in Las Vegas / Mojave Desert / Red Rock Canyon
Those arriving by 2:00 PM, will be met by our guide, Greg Smith, in time to enjoy a scenic drive through Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  This is a geologic wonderland known for its fanciful red, gray and cream colored rocks.  The multi-colored layers are part of an escarpment where uplift forces have lifted the range to 8000 ft. in elevation.  Six hundred million years of Earth’s history are here on display.  A 13-mile loop road leads us to scenic highlights and an excellent Visitor’s Center where displays give you an excellent overview of the region.  We’ve chosen a hotel west of the Las Vegas Strip to close the park and without all the hype!  Those arriving after 2:00 PM can take a taxi out to meet us. At a welcome dinner this evening, meet your guides and fellow travelling companions.
Accommodations at Courtyard Marriot Summerlin (D)

Sun., Mar. 14 Red Rock Canyon / Death Valley National Park
This morning we return to Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area to explore some of its trails and some interesting rock art panels.  There are several oases here where water attracts birds such as Western Scrub-jays, Greater Roadrunners, Gambel's Quail, and Lucy's Warblers are a few of our likely finds. Rock Wrens and White-throated Swifts are present on the cliffs that frame our view.  Throughout the day we’ll be on the lookout for Ladder-backed Woodpeckers, Ash-throated Flycatchers, Abert's Towhees and a variety of other species. Lizards we may find include the Desert Spiny Lizards, Side-blotched Lizards, and Western Whiptails. 

After a picnic lunch, we travel west to enter Death Valley National Park on the south end where Badwater marks the lowest elevation in the Western Hemisphere.  The permanent spring-fed pool is not poisonous, but does contain large amounts of chloride, sodium and sulfate.  The surrounding area may be the hottest place in the world with temperatures reaching over 120+ degrees for more than thirty days each summer.  Walk out on the saltpan here, to marvel at the immense sense of space! We continue through the park's scenic landscape to the date palm oasis at Furnace Creek, where we have accommodations for the next four nights. Enjoy dinner tonight at the Ranch's Steakhouse.
Accommodations at Furnace Creek Ranch, Death Valley National Park (B,L,D)

Mon., Mar. 15 DVNP: Sand Dunes / Mosaic Canyon / Artist’s Drive
We start early in the morning with a walk among the park’s amazing sand dunes.  At this time the light is dramatic, animal tracks are fresh and the world beckons us to explore.  We then drive a short way to Mosaic Canyon to walk amid a tapestry of rock colors and patterns.  In this cooler, shaded ravine we can learn about the complex geology revealed in the rock walls.  This is a good place to find Rock Wrens which nest in the area.

We return to our lodgings for lunch, a mid-day break, and – if you wish – a swim in the pool.  Trees around the facility may harbor Northern Mockingbirds, wintering Ruby-crowned Kinglets and Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, Hermit Thrushes, and more. Later in the afternoon we take in the exhibits of the park’s main visitor center and then drive a scenic drive to Artist’s Point, stopping for photos and to enjoy the cooling air and the spectacular late afternoon light.  This is a great opportunity to learn some photo tips from your guide.  American Pipits, Horned Larks and Common Ravens may be visible in this open habitat, as well as a variety of lizards.  Dinner tonight is at your leisure.
Accommodations at the Furnace Creek Ranch, Death Valley National Park, CA (B,L)

Tues., Mar. 16 DVNP:  Salt Creek / Mountain Vistas / Wildrose Canyon
Salt Creek, one of Death Valley’s major drainages, is home to the unique Desert Pupfish as well as a host of interesting birds and aquatic invertebrates.  We take a boardwalk trail through the area. Those who wish for a longer hike can continue up the drainage, while photographers may want to linger to photograph on a macro scale.  Raptors, migrants, and waders often frequent this small valley.  With luck we may find Northern Harriers, Common Yellowthroats, American Avocets, and Greater Yellowlegs, as well as other species. 

From here we continue to the mountains of Death Valley.  The higher elevations offer a cool respite from our days on the valley floor.  We visit points of scenic and biological interest as we gain elevation.  Enjoy a walk on the scenic trail towards Wildrose Peak, where we find conifer-loving birds such as Juniper Titmouse, Red-naped Sapsucker, Townsend’s Solitaire, Mountain Bluebird, Red-breasted Nuthatch, and Mountain Chickadee.  At this elevation in early March, we may encounter snow!  Listen for calls of Clark’s Nutcracker, Pinyon Jay, and Common Raven, which may fly in to investigate our picnic lunch.  Learn more about local mining history as we visit the picturesque remains of charcoal kilns left from the boom-and-bust endeavors in Death Valley.

Dinner is at your leisure.
Accommodations at the Furnace Creek Ranch  (B,L)

Wed., Mar. 17 Zabriski Point / Dante’s View / Titus Canyon
We start the day with a trip to Zabriski Point and Dante’s View, where we can scan the entire panorama of Death Valley.  In this dramatic setting, we outline the geologic events that created this stunning environment and you’ll have time to take some spectacular photographs in the morning light.  In patchy desert shrubs we look for wintering White-crowned Sparrows, and newly arrived Ash-throated Flycatchers, Western Kingbirds and Green-tailed Towhees. Gambel’s Quail and possibly another quail relative, the Chukar are year-round residents which should make an appearance.

After a mid-day break, we head to the mouth of Titus Canyon which is cut deep into the Amargosa Mountains.  We then walk into this remote and boldly sculpted canyon where we read the geologic story in the rock walls and, for those who wish to hike up a way, look for the rock art of early cultures along the waterways.  Plants in this canyon exhibit many adaptations to the environmental extremes. 

Tonight we celebrate our explorations with a lovely dinner at the Furnace Creek Inn.
Accommodations at the Furnace Creek Ranch (B,L,D)

Thurs., Mar. 18 Tecopa / China Ranch Date Farm / Pahrump
Today we leave Death Valley, but stay very much within the fascinating realm of Mojave Desert.

En route to our next lodgings at Pahrump, we pass through the community of Tecopa, which is known for its hot springs.  The hot springs are part of the geothermal complex found in Death Valley and provides habitat for migrating shorebirds and waterfowl.  In a small wetland we may see Wilson’s Phalarope, Spotted Sandpiper and American Avocet.

Tecopa is also home to the extensive China Ranch Date Farm where, in addition to looking for birds, we can try their famous Date milkshakes.  This family-run farm has built nature trails that wind amidst large cottonwood and willow trees.  Geology, botany and birds are all present here.  If time allows, we’ll walk down a trail to colorful Amargosa Canyon, where an underground river creates wildlife habitat.  Enjoy local art and lunch at a fun restaurant in Tecopa or Shoshone , the location determined by the luck we’ve had with our birding and when we leave China Ranch.  Surprisingly there are several fun local establishments for us to choose from! 

In Shoshone, we visit a small museum which chronicles local Death Valley history and displays the remains of a young prehistoric Mammoth. 

By late afternoon we arrive in the small town of Pahrump. Pahrump lies in a well-watered basin (by Mojave Desert standards) where abundant underground springs keep local vegetation green.  Here we enjoy simple lodgings away from the hustle and bustle of Las Vegas and we are well positioned for an early start to Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, a Nevada Important Bird Area. Dinner is at a favorite local restaurant.
Accommodations at Best Western Pahrump Station (B,L,D)

Fri., March 19 Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge
Today we explore a 23,000 acre wonderland of spring-fed wetlands that provide stark contrast to the more abundant alkaline desert uplands. Ashville Meadows holds one of the highest concentration of endemics for a single location in the U.S. – biologists have cataloged 24 endemic animal species.  The most famous of these is the tiny and very local Devil’s Hole Pupfish, which exists in the wild at a single limestone cavern managed by Death Valley National Park within Ash Meadows Refuge.  While managed populations exist in man-made habitat that mimics this cavern, this species is a textbook example of extreme geographic isolation and is important to our understanding of evolution, having resided in isolation in this area for at least 30,000 years.

We plan to spend the full day at this refuge, established in 1984.  This site provides an excellent introduction to Mojave Desert ecology and the host of fascinating adaptations of the flora and fauna.  We walk the Crystal Springs Interpretive Boardwalk trail, a quiet two-track road closed to motorized vehicles, and take a scenic drive to springs and marsh wetlands.  Refuge biologists will meet with our group to detail current research, management and restoration projects.

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is a desert oasis, providing habitat for rare fish, plants, snails and insects.  Clear spring pools and streams support seven species of fish; four are native and endangered.  We walk into the colorful Point of Rocks area where pupfish are particularly active and visible. Breeding males appear blue at this time of year, while females remain a more discrete olive green.  Over 239 different species of birds have been recorded on the refuge. While songbird migration is typically later, during April and May, we are here at a good time to see breeding plumage waterfowl, overwintering waders and early migrants.  During the winter, marshes and reservoirs support the largest variety of water birds. Resident Southwestern species such as the mesquite-loving Crissal Thrasher, colorful Verdin, displaying Phainopepla, and noisy Lucy's Warbler will likely command our attention. While not easy to see, the refuge’s 27 species of mammals includes coyotes, Black-tailed Jackrabbits, Desert Cottontails, and the supremely desert adapted White-tailed Antelope Squirrels. Desert Bighorn Sheep are occasionally observed at Point of Rocks and Devil's Hole.

Five amphibians and 20 reptiles are known to occur on the refuge, including Woodhouse Toads, the most commonly observed species on the refuge. With luck, Chuckwalla Lizards will be sunning themselves on the rocky slopes near Devil's Hole and Point of Rocks. Coachwhip and Gopher Snake are two of the more common snakes seen at Ash Meadows.

Dinner is at your leisure.
Accommodations at Best Western Pahrump Station (B,L)

Sat. Mar. 20 Desert National Wildlife Refuge / Spring Mountains IBA
Desert National Wildlife Refuge was set aside to protect Desert Bighorn Sheep.  Rugged mountains provide habitat for this magnificent species, which remains elusive but may be possible to see.  Birders flock to this refuge to spend time exploring Corn Creek, often described as the top birding area in the Las Vegas region.  Corn Creek is an oasis with lush trees and ponds and the remains of an old orchard, a great place to find Red-naped Sapsucker.   The refuge is HUGE, comprising 2200 square miles and six desert mountain ranges.  Mule Deer, prey for the refuge’s healthy population of Mountain Lions, share the rugged terrain with Bighorn Sheep.  Roads in the refuge are primitive and we remain on its edge, but find inspiration in witnessing expansive wilderness so close to the bright lights of Las Vegas! 

In the afternoon we change habitats radically, driving up the Mt. Charleston road towards the local ski area, where we may encounter light snow at this time of year!  We are on the look-out for typical birds of the Mountain West.  Almost 12,000 ft. Mt. Charleston is the centerpiece of the Charleston Mountains; Bristlecone Pines grow on its flanks as do White Firs, Limber and Ponderosa Pines.  Some 30 endemic plant and animal species have been described here to date; biologists are censusing this Nevada Important Bird Area to catalog additional species as this ‘island’ mountain range has likely been isolated from similar habitat for 30,000 years.  Steller’s Jays and Clark’s Nutcrackers check us out as we explore several picnic areas. This is also the realm of the Northern Goshawk which we hope to find.  Enjoy an early farewell dinner at the delightful Mt. Charleston Hotel near the ski area. 
Accommodations at Courtyard Marriot Summerlin (B,L,D)

Sun. Mar. 21 Departures
This morning we’ll provide group transport to the airport at approximately 8:00 and 10:00 o’clock for flights out after 10:00 AM to Noon.  (B)

PLAN AHEAD! Protect yourself with Access America Travel Insurance. Offset your Carbon Footprint. Show us the receipt and we'll take 50% - up to $50.00 - of your carbon offset fee off your final payment. COST OF THE JOURNEY $2195.00 from Las Vegas, based on double occupancy. This cost includes all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, professional guide services, other park and program entrance fees and miscellaneous program expenses.  Tour cost does not include: round-trip transportation from your home city to Las Vegas, porterage, personal services such as laundry, telephone, or beverages from the bar. Single supplement is $590.00. Group Size: Maximum of 12, minimum of 4. Tour price is based on 6 persons, with fewer than 6 a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. TRAVEL PLANNING Coming soon! Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery. Photo Credits: Mojave Sunrise, sunset Washington palms, Zyzzx Pond, yucca night lizard, Death Valley Overlook and group of three, Greg Smith; Common Yellowthroat, William McDougal Jr.; Black throated Sparrow, Evelyn Earlougher; Gambel Quail, Lynn Feryus; Roadrunner in flowers and Yellow-headed Blackbird, Tony Beck - to see more of his images, go to: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; Peg in flowers, Gary Conover; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

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