Olympic National Park & Peninsula, Washington - Hiking & Nature
July 18-25, 2010
Mountains and ocean, forests and meadows, glaciers and flowers – all of these await us in Olympic National Park in Washington. Join us to explore the only temperate rainforest in the contiguous 48 states, as well as one of the wildest, most scenic coastlines in the world during the lush days of summer.
The park protects the Olympic Mountains, including 8,000-foot Mt. Olympus, the wettest spot in the United States. It provides habitat to 56 species of mammals (including Elk and the endemic Olympic Marmot), more than 130 species of birds (including Spotted Owl and the rare Marbled Murrelet) and numerous salamanders and other amphibians. We hike trails in mountains, deep forests, and alpine meadows. The varied terrain provides great opportunities for photography, wildflower and wildlife viewing. Vegetation is prolific throughout: observe and learn about the incredible array of plant life in the lush forest: mosses, ferns, both alpine and forest wildflowers, massive spruce and hemlock, and more.
This journey includes time for hikes on the rugged Pacific coast, which forms the park’s western boundary. Walk remote, quiet beaches, examine tide pools, and explore a number of bays and harbors. We visit the most northwest point of the lower 48 states on the Makah Reservation which lies adjacent to the park. While here, we visit the cultural center to learn more about the native Makah people and examine artifacts from a rich archaeological dig. This group’s excellent basketry and wood carvings are sure to entice a bit of shopping. Along the way there is an excellent loop hike through a variety of habitats to reach Ozette Lake and then a wild and scenic section of beach.
We stay at two locations during the trip: one along magnificent Lake Crescent, the other on the Pacific Coast. This journey offers a combination of scenery, hikes, wildlife, and culture that’s hard to beat! With hundreds of miles of trails to walk we can pace options to match the interests and abilities of the group.
ITINERARY
Sun., July 18 Arrival in Seattle or Port Angeles, WA / Lake Crescent Lodge
Arrive today in Seattle, Washington by 2:00 PM. We plan to drive to the Olympic Peninsula via the Edmunds Ferry and hope to be on our way no later than 3:00 PM from our meeting location. We’ll check into our hotel and as time allows do a little exploring of some of the historic area of the Dungeness Peninsula with a view of sunset near our welcome dinner location.
Accommodations in Sequim (D)
Mon., July 19 Dungeness Spit / Dungeness River Nature Center
After breakfast we explore the Dungeness Peninsula east of Lake Crescent near Sequim. Sequim and the Dungeness Peninsula enjoy a mild, drier climate than the rest of the Peninsula; at one time this was a rich farming area. While farm fields now grow luxury homes, we may spot a few historic barns of this passing era. Sandhill Cranes like the remaining open fields; several wetland areas provide refuge for ducks and geese. The Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge is a haven for waterfowl and shorebird species. A five-mile sand spit extends into the Strait of Juan de Fuca; at its tip is a picturesque lighthouse. Hikers can choose how far out the spit they wish to go, a round trip of 10 miles is possible. 
Today you can choose to hike, or some may want to try their hand at sea-kayaking. This optional activity (additional cost – please book with registration to ensure space) includes a couple hours of paddling with a lunch break and view of the lighthouse. It still leaves you time for some beach ambling and walking ahead of meeting this tour, run by a local operator. It is a trip suitable for beginners, and offers a unique perspective of the area, especially if you spot a Western Grebe, a Common Loon, or a frisky sea lion from your boat! Walkers can enjoy searching for shorebirds amid LOTS of interesting driftwood, maybe a Bald Eagle near the tip.
Following our day’s activities, we travel west to our lodgings on beautiful Lake Crescent. Enjoy a group dinner in their cozy dining room this evening.
Accommodations at Lake Crescent Lodge. (B,L,D)
Tues., July 20 Geyser Valley Loop: Elwha River Trail / Humes Ranch Trail
This morning we drive to a beautiful section of the park, the Elwha River Valley. We hike up a short paved trail along the river, enjoying sights and sounds of forest birds such as Golden-crowned Kinglet, Townsend’s and Hermit Warblers, and Steller’s Jay. Near Madison Creek Falls we find a lush collection of mosses, ferns and liverworts on the forest floor. Tall Bigleaf Maples, Black Cottonwood and other deciduous trees enjoy conditions of this lush foothills river valley.
We then continue on a bit by road to the trailhead for the Geyser Valley Loop. This 6 mile trail has a 380 ft. elevation gain. There are no geysers here, though mist can swirl about when conditions are moist. Early settlers homesteaded here and along our trail we find a few abandoned remains of cabins. Humes Cabin is a National Historic Site adjacent to a beautiful meadow. Remains of the orchard exhibit 100-year old fruit trees. At a few places we break out of forest for marvelous views of meadows left by the settlers. Vine maples and variety of shrubs and trees and tall sword ferns have sprung up in a burned area from the 1970’s, creating a mix of habitat. At the Golden Gates, which marks the entrance to Rica Canyon, we find a dramatic outcrop of slate and sandstone and cool turquoise waters of the Elwha River. Fine glacial silt carried from the high Olympics creates this translucent color. We can also explore a bit of the Grand Canyon of the Elwha.
After the hike we drive over to our lodgings on the shore of Lake Crescent, and if time allows we stop in at the park Visitor Center where you can find a selection of maps, books and other helpful information.
Accommodations at Lake Crescent Lodge. (B,L)
Wed., July 21 Olympic Mtns. & Hurricane Ridge
Today we drive high into the Olympic Mountains for an overview of mountains and in the distance, the sea! Deep snow persists here into June, so our hiking will depend on snow depth. We’ll certainly have a grand show of many early blooming flowers. Glacial-carved peaks are abundant here, providing amazing scenery and a living geologic classroom.
Learn more about the adaptations of plants and animals to high elevation and alpine climates as we search for one of the Olympic Peninsula’s endemic species, the Olympic Marmot. In the open tundra we may find courting American Pipit and Horned Larks. Among the stunted and wind-sculptured groves of pygmy trees in the krumholtz zone, we may find Golden-crowned Kinglets and White-crowned Sparrow, or perhaps a McGillivray’s Warbler, singing to define its territory. Mountain Goats were introduced to the Peninsula and provide a dilemma for park management, as they are fond of foraging on unique and rare native plants. We may see them with their young – quite a sight.
Enjoy a picnic lunch and a walk out the Klahhane Ridge for fine views of permanent glaciers. In the afternoon we return to the lodge for some time to relax; dinner is at your leisure.
Accommodations at Lake Crescent Lodge (B,L)
Thurs., July 22 Sol Duc Hot Springs / Forest Trails
This morning enjoy an optional early walk at the nearby Marymere Falls Trail, an easy walk winding through some lovely forest for about a mile. The waterfall, about 90 feet high, is lovely and very photogenic -- though photos may be a challenge in the low forest light. You may wish to relax instead this morning, sleep in and have breakfast at your leisure.
Later in the morning, we take a short drive to one of the most scenic areas of the park in the Sol Duc River Valley; here we can choose leisurely or more challenging walks. Sol Duc Falls is readily accessible and scenic; those wanting to stretch their legs some more can climb up a ridge to an ancient Western Hemlock grove. Both walks provide an excellent introduction to the ecology of the Pacific Northwest’s temperate rainforest. Chestnut-backed Chickadees alert us to bird activity; with them we may find Pine Grosbeak, Red Crossbill, or other forest species.
After hiking we return to Sol Duc Resort’s delightful hot springs, where three outdoor tubs the size of swimming pools await you. Soak your cares (and any muscle pains) away! Then, enjoy an early dinner at Sol Duc Resort’s excellent gourmet restaurant.
Accommodations at Lake Crescent Lodge (L,D)
Fri., July 23 Hoh Rain Forest / Pacific Ocean Beaches
The Hoh Rain Forest, explored via trails in the Hoh River Valley, is perhaps the most magnificent tract of temperate rainforest we investigate in detail. From Banana Slugs to Pileated Woodpeckers, we observe the intricate web of ecological relationships here. This is one of the world’s wettest places, and myriad plant species thrive here. We’ll examine mosses, ferns, liverworts, fungi, and wildflowers galore.
Above us stand mighty trees, giants of another era and nest sites for rare Marbled Murrelet and Northern Spotted Owl. Winter Wren – the little Pavarrotis of the bird world, are common in the understory, singing from moss-covered logs. Massive Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock dominate this rainforest, with giant Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, Red Alder, and Vine Maple growing alongside them in smaller numbers. Bigleaf Maple is perhaps the most memorable tree species here, with oddly sculptured trunks and branches. These trees also exhibit a strange adaptation: they send rootlets into their burden of lush mosses and ephiphytes.
We spend much of the day walking among the forest giants, some of which are over 500 years old. In these lush forests we look for Varied Thrush, Townsend’s Solitaire, Townsend’s Warbler, and Olive-sided Flycatcher. On large Black Cottonwoods along rushing streams we may find Orange-crowned Warbler, Pacific-slope Flycatcher, Western Tanager, or above us, Vaux’s Swift. With luck we may encounter the forest-dwelling Roosevelt Elk; with a little searching we may find some unusual salamanders.
We return to Forks mid-afternoon, and after checking in to our hotel, we enjoy a walk to a beautiful beach where we enjoy sunset. There are a number of restaurants to choose from in Forks this evening at your leisure.
Accommodations in Forks, WA (B,L)
Sat., July 24 Makah Reservation / Ozette / Cape Alava
Today we get an early start to drive to the northwest corner of Olympic National Park and lands of the Makah Reservation. For part of our drive, the road follows the shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca where we may glimpse Bald Eagles.
At Neah Bay, we visit the Makah Cultural and Resource Center, a museum displaying amazing artifacts from an early native community that specialized in whaling and fishing. Makah basketry and totem and animal carvings resemble those of related tribes in British Columbia. The museum obtained much of its collection from an archaeological dig conducted in the 1970’s near Ozette, now within Olympic National Park. Extensive mudslides once buried a coastal village; eventually archaeologists recovered more than 50,000 artifacts. Museum staff will lead a tour and offer insights into today’s Makah people. This is an excellent place to purchase native crafts if you wish.
Then its time to hike! We have a great trail to experience today, a nine-mile loop which is actually two trails connected by walking on a wilderness beach of the Pacific Ocean. (Those wanting a shorter hike can walk to the beach, amble there and return via the trail they came in on). Our loop starts at the Ozette Ranger Station. We walk to Cape Alava, passing a historic homestead along the trail. Sections of the trail pass over boardwalks to protect boggy areas replete with large leaves of Skunk Cabbage. We also pass through coastal prairie and we may find carnivorous plants known as sundew. Deer Fern is abundant in the forest understory of young forests that rim the prairie. Closer to the ocean we pass through ancient Sitka Spruce rainforest. The Cape Alava area is famous for its picturesque seastacks, small islands covered by forest just offshore. There are thick mats of Giant Kelp here and we keep our eyes open for Sea Otter. Tidepools host a wonderful array of invertebrates. This is the site of the Makah village we viewed artifacts from this morning at the museum.
Those that hike the loop will continue south, passing a site with Makah petroglyphs known as Wedding Rocks. Enjoy the beach before we turn back inland on the boardwalk of the Sand Point trail to complete our loop. Celebrate a great week of hikes at our group dinner in Forks.
Accommodations in Forks, WA (B,L,D)
Sun., July 25 Return to Seattle
We leave this morning to return to Seattle, allowing four hours for the normally three-hour trip in case we have to wait for the ferry. Please plan on flights out after 1:00 PM from Seattle. (B)
Please note: we may change the ORDER of our hikes to match local weather conditions, particularly we want to be atop Hurricane Ridge on a sunny day for the spectacular views. We may also select a different hike than one listed to match the interests and ability of participants. Our goal is to share favorite trails in a variety of habitats so you get the full flavor of this beautiful part of the world. For those that want additional mileage, there are short trails close to our lodge on Lake Crescent you can add to any day.
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Cost
of the Journey
The cost is $2190.00 from Seattle, based on double occupancy. This cost includes all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, transportation during the journey, professional guide services, park and other entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. This cost does not include: round trip airfare or AMTRAK to and from Seattle or Port Angeles, Washington; or items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone, drinks from the bar; or gratuities for porterage or personal services. With fewer than 8 participants, a small-group surcharge (typically $100-300 per participant) will apply. Single supplement is $495.00.
Sea-kayaking is available with a local tour company (includes all equipment needed) at current tour prices, approx. $100.00 per person.
Travel
Arrangements
We plan to meet at a location to be announced outside the Seattle airport – most likely at a local hotel with shuttle transportation. If you plan to arrive the night previous we can let you know what hotel we have selected. Seattle is a very busy airport with restrictions on any commercial use of passenger pick-up so this is a good system to use. If you are traveling in the area to Victoria B.C. or the San Juan Islands and prefer to meet us in Port Angeles this can be arranged on an individual basis. You may also be dropped off in Port Angeles if you wish to do this after your journey.
You may wish to stay on after the journey is over to take the ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria, B.C. in Canada or to explore the nearby San Juan Islands. Day-long and multi-day tours are available; try www.victoriaexpress.com (800-633-1589), or the Coho Ferry (206-457-4491) for starters. Several other operators can be found if you search the web or through your travel agent. You can then travel back to Seattle on a shuttle from Port Angeles, though this only runs twice a day so it will require an overnight ahead of that day of travel.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery.
Photo Credits:
Orca Whale, Bart Rulon; Black Bear, Forget Me Nots and Beach walk, Peg Abbott; Bald Eagle, Wheeler McDougal, Jr.;
Hooded Merganser, Hairy Woodpecker, Common Loon, Merlin,
Pileated Woodpecker and Barred Owl; Tony Beck - to see more
of his images, go to: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/;
all other photos by Don Allen.
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