Papua New Guinea Birding & Nature
August 4-18, 2011
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Papua New Guinea is perhaps our most exotic destination yet, and we time our visit with the Mt. Hagen Show, giving us an unparalleled opportunity to see the local people. While much of our focus is on nature, from the country’s rainbow of birds to its equally outstanding flora, we do not want to travel this far without learning about the culture, past and present that is so much a part of our adventure.
Papua New Guinea (PNG) is the second largest island on Earth, after Greenland. It hosts rugged mountains, complex terrain and relatively few people. In the last decade roads have improved, tourist facilities have been upgraded and best of all, there are some small and functioning birding lodges which offer us hospitality. Travel here still brings the unexpected, from mudslides to fuel shortages in remote villages. It is not for everyone. But for those with patience and a sense of adventure the rewards are great!
Some 700 species of birds occur in the Papuan Faunal Area, of which 373 can be found on the combined mainland area PNG (eastern side of the island) and Indonesian West Papua (western side of the island). Over 20 species of birds-of-paradise can be found and they are just one group among many colorful and amazing species. If there was a category of endemic beauty, Papuan birds would be a top contender to rule the list
While PNG dominates the Pacific Islands of Oceania in size and economy, the status of many of its species are poorly known; currently biologists are assessing all major taxa as part of the process of preparing a comprehensive IUCN Oceania Regional Red List for the Pacific Islands region. The 2008 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species report for PNG shows that efforts to assess the over 18,000 species of plants have just begun and work on reptiles is especially lacking. Birds, mammals and reptiles have been more thoroughly assessed, mammals are particularly vulnerable.
Many of us have been inspired to visit by watching the BBC’s incredible documentary called “Attenborough in Paradise”. The film is a sneak preview and you can imagine what its like to see it firsthand! Not surprisingly, the World Wildlife Fund rates PNG as one of the hottest biodiversity spots on the planet, one of the World’s Top Ten.
From Port Moresby we fly to the west side of the country, staying at birding lodges in Kiunga (lowland rainforest) and Tabubil (foothills of the Snow Mountains) where we find several of the BoP species and much, much more. Afterwards, we fly on to the Mt. Hagen (highlands) area where the annual Mt. Hagen cultural show is attended by many of the clans from all over PNG. We visit on a day of singing and dancing when the traditional dress of the people more than rivals colors of the native flora and fauna. The festival is open to the public and to respectful photography. It is an amazing event, particularly when interpreted by our guides. It happens that this is also one of the best birding areas of PNG so we spend several days looking for the area’s specialties like Blue and Lesser BoP’s.
From here we fly back to Port Moresby, with our final days at nearby Varirata National Park, the country’s first established national park, where we look for several kingfishers, Eastern Riflebirds, Chestnut-backed Jewel-Babblers, Painted Quail-Thrushes and, perhaps most sought-after, the beautiful Raggiana Birds-of-paradise.
ITINERARY
Thurs., Aug. 4 Arrive Port Moresby
We begin in Port Moresby, meeting up in Australia to make the flight into Papua New Guinea together with our expert guide. Situated on a beautiful harbor, Port Moresby dates from 1873 and is named for the Captain who founded the first village. The National Museum and Art Gallery helps us to better understand Papua New Guinea's complex tribal lifestyles, and the toll of World War II development and fighting on this nation. Our first birds may be seen at the National Botanical Gardens, or in the residential areas.
We arrive today in Port Moresby* and, after clearing customs we will be met to transfer to our hotel. There will be an afternoon familiarization tour around the Port Moresby area, with a chance to see a few birds as well. You may wish to arrive a day early to spend more extensive time at the National Museum, the Parliament House, the Botanical Gardens or seeing the stilt villages of Hanubada or Koki on the water.
Accommodations in Port Moresby (D)
If you wish to arrive early, or stay on afterwards, we can help you with arrangement. Also note, for considerable savings on your airfare into PNG, your ticket must be made in conjunction with your International Ticket. Once our group has reached the minimum size, we will check prices and choose the gateway city – most likely Cairns or Brisbane, Australia. Singapore is another option. We will make some optional activities available to you at this stopover city, or you may arrive in time to continue to fly right through. Those registering will be advised.
Fri., Aug. 5 Fly to Kiunga, Western PNG / Fly River
Our early breakfast is followed by a trip back to the airport where we take our flight to Kiunga, a small port town on the Fly River in western PNG. This is a remote area with pristine lowland rainforest, some of the best in the country. The area hosts an impressive list of birds and comfortable lodgings at Kiunga Guest House. This is a small lodge, with amenities of air-conditioning, a restaurant and bar. Upon arrival, the balance of our day will be spent birding the Kiunga area. Flame Bowerbirds, Greater Birds of Paradise (BoP) and Trumpet Manucodes can all be found not far from the township. This is the location at which David Attenborough filmed the Greater BoP’s display ceremony from the canopy of an extraordinary tree. Sharing the canopy may be variety of fruit doves, Imperial pigeons, Mountain Pigeons, and Pygmy Parrots. With luck, we also hope for Palm Cockatoos and Obscure Honeyeaters. For many of the group families of birds may be new, and the lingo will challenge you as we search for Brush Cuckoos, jewel-babblers, pitohuis, monarchs and bowerbirds, the latter famous for collecting objects and constructing amazing homes. Our lodgings are in town, where the main economic activity is servicing a variety of mining operations and maintaining commodities transport on this navigable river.
Accommodations at the Kiunga Guest House (B,L,D)
Sat., Aug. 6 Fly River / Elevala River
We venture upstream from Kiunga, a main port town on the Fly River, to make our way further into the bush. Getting an early start, we travel by boat, making birding stops, first up the Fly River and then up one of its tributaries, the Elevala River. Our destination upriver for 1 night is the rustic, but fantastically positioned Kwatu Lodge. We spend most of the day in the boats, with stops, though a surprising and considerable variety of species can be seen along the river, including White-bellied Sea-Eagles, Great-billed Herons (when water levels are low), Collared Imperial-Pigeons (locally common here), Large Fig-Parrots (scarce), Double-eyed Fig-Parrots, Channel-billed Cuckoos, Papuan Spinetails, Shining Flycatchers, Golden and Yellow-faced Mynas, and huge flights of flying-fox fruit-bats. Most alluring for many are the diminutive King and the incredible Twelve-wired Birds-of-paradise – these are worth an early start! Kwatu is accessible only by boat, and does not have electricity. It is a step up from camping with bush (pit, or ‘long-drop’) toilets and bush showers and the buildings are made from native materials. It has just six twin rooms, and the beds have mosquito netting. We believe the pristine forests and excellent birding in the vicinity of the Lodge make it a very worthwhile destination. It also gives you a feeling for how most of the people live. Night sounds of the forest are just amazing.
Accommodations Kwatu Lodge (B,L,D).
Sun., Aug. 7 Rainforest Birding / Return by boat to Kiunga
We spend the early morning, when birds are calling and active on trails near Kwatu Lodge, then return back down the river birding on the way. Little and Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfishers may be seen, as well as the Emperor Fairy Wrens, a small gem of the forest. Some birds are tough to see but possible, such as Southern Crowned Pigeons in the canopy and, on the forest floor, Blue-breasted Pittas. Once back at the port, we return to Kiunga Guest House, where by now we feel at home, and where we have stored most of our luggage.
Accommodations at the Kiunga Guest House (B,L,D)
Mon., Aug. 8 Foothills of the Star Mountains / Tabubil
There is still much to see on the west side of PNG and today we continue exploring. We take the road that winds for about 90 miles up along mountain ridges into the foothills of the Star Mountains and the mining town of Tabubil. We bird along the way as time allows, catching views of our first montane species. Watch the sky for possible flyovers of noisy Pesquet’s Parrots. On reaching the town of Tabubil, we will check into the comfortable Cloudlands Hotel. Tabubil may take you by surprise, with its neat and orderly company-town appearance, complete with post office, hospital and rows of housing for workers. It was built to service large gold and copper mines in the region.
Accommodations at the Cloudlands Hotel (B,L,D )
Tues., Aug. 9 and Wed., Aug. 10 Birding the Tabubil Area
For two days we will bird the Tabubil area. Most of our birding will be along roads with virtually no traffic with some steep trails leading off into the forest. We will look for Torrent Flycatchers in roadside streams, Salvadori’s Teals, our newly discovered site for the mythical and crepuscular Shovel-billed Kingfishers, Pesquet’s (Vulturine) Parrots, the almost unknown Obscure Berrypeckers, Magnificent Riflebirds, Magnificent BoP and Carola’s Parotias (though males of both the latter are very elusive) and perhaps if we are lucky the elusive Greater Melampittas which inhabit the karst limestone areas found in this region.
Accommodations in Tabubil (B,L,D )
Thurs., Aug. 11 Mt. Hagen / Highlands / Kumul Lodge
Leaving Tabubil we will fly over to Mt Hagen where we will be met at the airport and transfer to Kumul Lodge for a 5 night stay. Kumul is a comfortable lodge made from local materials. We explore from Kamul Lodge, where three species of BoP come right in to the feeders! Beautiful gardens host orchids and more, and trails lead us out into the forest. This is a great place for photography as a feeder attracts birds-of-paradise including Brown Sicklebills, Ribbon-tailed Astrapias and other interesting birds like Archbold’s Bowerbirds, Brehm’s Tiger Parrots and Smoky Honeyeaters. We will spend the balance of the day exploring the Lodge grounds replete with flowering trees, shrubs and a surprising number of native orchids and other plants. Even the King-of-Saxony BoP may appear at the feeders! We have a splendid view of Mt. Hagan (11,181 feet) right from the hotel! Kamul Lodge is well hidden in the forest, locally designed and built with many local materials. It is an eco-tourism enterprise that works with local people, the first such lodge in Papua New Guinea.
Accommodations at the Kumul Lodge (B,L,D )
Fri., Aug. 12 Kumul Region / Prepare for the Mt. Hagan Cultural Show
This morning we will start the day birding trails through the lush cool forests of Kamul, which is situated at a refreshing 8800 feet. Lush forests around the lodge can be very productive and we will be looking for Island Thrushes, Chestnut Forest Rails and Bronze Ground-Doves among other things. There are beautiful waterfalls nearby, so many that some are dramatic ones remain unnamed. After lunch, we will visit Mt Hagen where we will attend a pre-Hagen show gathering to familiarize ourselves with local customs, etiquette and expectations concerning photography.
Accommodations at the Kumul Lodge (B,L,D )
Sat., August 13 Mt. Hagen Cultural Show*
Today we will travel in from Kumul and attend the spectacular annual Mt Hagen cultural show. Attended by clans from all over PNG dressed in their finest traditional ‘bilas” this is a day of singing and dancing. Birds of Paradise plumes, lorikeet feathers and even Cassowary skin and feather cloaks can be see as the different groups take it in turns to perform. This is a truly amazing experience and a fantastic photo opportunity as we get to mingle with the performers after they have all assembled.
From the website: http://echeng.com/travel/papuanewguinea/mthagenshow/ The Mt. Hagen show is Papua New Guinea's largest annual cultural show, attracting as many as 
50 clans who perform in sing-sing groups on a large field. The show was started in 1961 as both a celebration of Papua New Guinea's culture and a forum for friendly competition in place of war. In the past, there was a notion of a "winning" sing-sing group, but these days, money collected from tourists and sponsors is split evenly among all of the registered tribes to avoid conflict at the show's end.
*Dates to be confirmed, if need be we will rework our itinerary to accommodate the show, these dates we are fairly certain of, please check back!
Accommodations at the Kumul Lodge (B,L,D )
Sun., Aug. 14 and Mon., Aug. 15 Highland Birding / Mt. Hagen
Enjoy two additional full day of walking trails, photographing flowers and butterflies and birding in the Kumul area. We hope to see Blue and Lesser Birds of Paradise among other species. These two species invite adventure and take some work, hiking, rising early – no worries if you choose to stay at the lodge and bird in their quiet and peaceful orchid garden! Marvelous are the quetzal-like Ribbon-tailed Astrapias! There is also the chance to visit one of the local villages and meet some of the villagers. Learn more about Kumul Lodge’s success as a community-based tourism venture and how they are preserving habitat by providing alternative jobs for local people. After dinner, weather permitting, we’ll try to spot the Mountain Owl-Nightjars.
Accommodations at the Kumul Lodge (B,L,D )
Tues., Aug. 16 Return to Port Moresby / Pacific Adventist University (PAU) Ponds
Today we will say goodbye to our hosts at Kumul and transfer back to Mt Hagen where you will catch the flight back to Port Moresby. Afternoon birding at Pacific Adventist University ponds. This offers us some very different birding and good birds to be seen here on campus include: Australian Darters, Wandering and Spotted (tough) whistling-ducks, Green Pygmy-Geese, Pied Herons, Rufous Night-Herons, White-browed Crakes, Comb-crested Jacanas – a photographic wonder walking on red lotus flowers!. Travelers experienced with Australia will recognize many of the birds today (or their close relatives): New Guinea Friarbirds, Rufous-banded Honeyeaters, White-breasted Woodswallows, Green Figbirds, Black-backed Butcherbirds, Grey-headed Munias, and Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds. Among the more interesting possibilities are Australian Darters, Wandering and Spotted (tough) whistling-ducks, Green Pygmy-Geese, Pied Herons, Rufous Night-Herons, White-browed Crakes, Comb-crested Jacanas, New Guinea Friarbirds, Rufous-banded Honeyeaters, White-breasted Woodswallows, Australian Figbirds, Black-backed Butcherbirds, Grey-headed Mannikins, and Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds. With luck we can find a roosting Papuan Frogmouth.
Accommodations in Port Moresby (B,L,D )
Wed., Aug. 17 Varirata National Park
We have an early breakfast at hotel and then head up to Varirata National Park for the morning’s guided birding. We walk on tree-lined roads, linger at clearing edges where we have good views. We extend ourselves then along well-maintained forest trails (some of them steep) in search of "black-and-rufous" flocks with some of the more spectacular but secretive specialties such as Chestnut-backed Jewel-Babblers, Northern Scrub-Robins, and Painted Quail-Thrushes. As our guide says, “with exceedingly remote dreams” we hope for Dwarf Cassowaries. Raggiana Birds-of-Paradise, one of the most exotic of PNG’s many exotic species with its wild magenta plumes, will be a priority!
We find much to see as we walk through eucalyptus and evergreen forests. Along the entrance-road and clearing-edge possibilities include quite a list: Pacific Bazas, Great and Slender-billed Cuckoo-Doves, Beautiful, Orange-bellied, and Pink-spotted Fruit-Doves, Zoe and Pinon Imperial-Pigeons, Red-cheeked Parrots, Yellow-streaked and Black-capped lories, Rainbow Lorikeets, Brush Cuckoos, and Pheasant Coucals. Kingfisher enthusiasts will be pleased to find Sacred, Forest, Azure, and Yellow-billed of the smaller kingfishers, along with Blue-winged and Rufous-bellied Kookaburras. Green-backed Gerygones, Black and Mountain myzomelas, White-throated Honeyeaters, Lemon-bellied Flycatchers, Grey Whistlers, Grey Shrike-Thrushes, Hooded Pitohuis, Glossy-mantled Manucodes, Hooded Butcherbirds, Brown Orioles, Black-faced, White-bellied, Yellow-eyed, Boyer’s, and Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrikes, Cicadabirds, Red-capped Flowerpeckers, and Black-fronted White-eyes can also be found. This is an excellent area for mixed-species flocks, which may include Chestnut-bellied Fantails, Dwarf Whistlers (Goldenface), Yellow-bellied, Fairy, and Green-backed Gerygones, Spot-winged, Frilled, Black-faced, and Black-winged Monarchs, Pale-billed Scrubwrens, and the scarce Wallace’s Fairywrens. Elusive voices can include Pheasant Pigeons and Crested Pitohuis. From this massive list you can see we’ll enjoy our time in the park fully and be on full-bird-alert today!
Some background on Varirata from the website: www.em.com.pg/PNG/Paradisearticles2/Varirata.htm
“Just an hour's drive from Port Moseby, Varirata NP is the country's first national park after PNG politician Dirona Abe visited Yellowstone in the USA in 1966. A system of lookouts enables visitors to admire panoramic views. Varirata's vegetation includes tropical rainforest, savannah woodland, grassland, secondary growth and gallery forest. Ferns, bamboos, lawyer canes and orchids are common. Animals seen here are wild pigs, anteaters, spotted cuscus, bandicoots, deer, brown pythons and an amazing number of brightly colored butterflies.”
After a full morning birding blitz, enjoy an afternoon visit to coastal villages where we will be treated to traditional songs and dances
Accommodations in Port Moresby ( )
Thurs., Aug. 18 Departure
An early breakfast at the hotel before we head off up to Varirata National Park again for another morning's birding. We return to the hotel in time to pick up our baggage from the hotel and take our late afternoon flight out. (B)
Extension – let us hear from you! We can arrange several options:
For those who would like a few days relaxation after the tour we can offer a few nights break at the dive resort on Loloata Island. A short boat transfer from Port Moresby this is a whole world away. Relax on the beach, dive or snorkel in the clear waters of the bay. Diving and snorkeling are available from the lodge.
We can also consider going deeper in – the amazing birding lodge at Ambua. We will post more of our options once our main tour dates have been confirmed.
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Photo Credits:
All photos by Sicklebill Safaris. |
