Panama Nature & Culture
March 13-21, 2011; can be combined with Panama's Darien National Park extension March 21-28.
**Combine these two tours for a savings of $100.00 per person!
Panama is an exciting destination for natural history travel and is blessed with a rich culture, past and present. Panama’s lowland rainforests are some of the most remarkable in the world and its highlands provide spectacular mountain scenery. On the narrow land isthmus where the Canal is located (only 50 miles wide), the flora and fauna of North and South America blend with astonishing diversity. With 928 species of birds, 1,500 known species of trees, and over 10,000 species of plants, it is a tropical paradise for nature travelers. Best of all, we find few crowds, spend time at two well-known and lovely lodges where we also sample
excellent regional cuisine.
Join us to experience time in varied habitats as we search for Panama’s legendary birds and mammals. We move only once, spending 4 nights at each of our lodges.
Our first lodge is up in the mountains, where the cool climate and rural charm of country life compliments our nature experience. Beautiful Canopy Lodge is surrounded by nature and we dine alfresco with tremendous views of mountains and bustling bird feeders nearby. The second lodge is totally unique. Accommodations are set in a lush, lowland rainforest where we may see Mantled Howler Monkeys, Agoutis, Coatimundis and an array of beautifully colored birds including trogons, toucans, puffbirds, aracaris, parrots, manakins, motmots and more.
Along with excellent field time we visit local markets, Miraflores Locks of highlight of our trip is a partial transit, including passage through several locks, of the Panama Canal! Gain first-hand knowledge of the workings and the history of the Canal as we enjoy the scenery and novelty of crossing this famous passage. While in Panama City, we will also visit Panama Viejo, the old part of the city, the national archaeological museum and the excellent Panama Canal Museum.
ITINERARY
Sun. March 13 Arrivals in Panama City
Arrive today at Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, the capital of Panama, which has a population of approximately 1,500,000 residents. Plan to arrive no later than 2:00 PM as we have a two and a half hours drive to our lodgings up in the mountains. If your selected flight arrives in the evening hours, we can help recommend a hotel close to the airport, near the Canal, or downtown Panama City where you can get settled, enjoy some time to explore and be ready for our tour to begin. You may enjoy an earlier transfer up to Canopy Lodge, where the village of El Valle hosts hosts a Sunday Market where you can see the local artisans. For either early or afternoon arrivals to El Valle, we enjoy a warm welcome at Canopy Lodge, and gather for a scrumptious dinner.
Accommodations at Canopy Tower Lodge, El Valle, Panama (D)
www.canopylodge.com
Mon., March 14 Chorro El Macho Trail / Canopy Adventure / Local Attractions & Birding
Mornings are a delight at Canopy Lodge. Wake to the sound of birds just outside your door. Enjoy coffee and delicious pastries in the company of hummingbirds, tanagers and oropendolas in the open-air dining area. Coming to the feeders are brilliant Lemon-rumped, Crimson-backed, White-lined, and Blue-Gray Tanagers, as well as electric Red-legged Honeycreepers. Clay-colored Thrushes, Streaked Saltators, and Yellow-faced Grassquits also stop in for a taste of the offerings. Even a handsome Rufous Motmot comes in to one of the feeders! Our guides are eager to share secrets of bird specialties of the forest trails that lead out from the Lodge. Two often-difficult to see Neotropic species can be found here at times, Tody Motmots, Rufous-vented Cuckoos. At all times there are a host of fascinating species. Basilisk Lizards sun themselves on rocks along the stream. Broad-billed and Rufous Motmots, Chestnut-backed Antbirds, and even Dull-mantled Antbirds are often present along the trail.
Some may wish to try a real adventure – a zip-line ride through the Canopy Adventure. This is optional, but likely we’ll all go over to watch and photograph. On our birding trails today we take in views of a beautiful waterfall. The Canopy Adventure trail itself hosts Gray-chested Doves, Dusky Antbirds, Great Antshrikes, Black-faced Antthrushes, Rufous-and-white and Rufous-breasted Wrens, and Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers frequently. Higher up, we may find Blue-throated Toucanets, Cocoa Woodcreepers, Bay-headed and Golden-hooded Tanagers, and Black-headed Saltators. Watch and listen for Keel-billed Toucans, Ochre-bellied Flycatchers, and Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrants.
As bird activity quiets down, we return to the Lodge. Relax on your porch, browse through book in the open-air library or wander the grounds where Stripe-throated Hermits, Violet-headed and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds may visit some purple verbena flowers. You may even glimpse the rare Rufous-crested Coquette!
In the afternoon we venture out to explore. El Valle also has some petroglyphs -- rocks decorated with what are believed to be pre-Colombian art. The rocks with their strange designs are worth a visit, if only for the walk there that gives you lovely views of the valley. It's about a five-minute walk from the clearing where we park our car, and we can always continue further uphill past the petroglyphs. We follow a path that leads on upstream passing several small waterfalls as it twists and turns towards the top of La India Dormida -- a hill in the shape of a sleeping woman.
There is also a natural swimming pool in the Lodge gardens for the use of guests, so bring your bathing suits if you would like to take a dip in refreshing 75 ºF waters.
Accommodations at the Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)
Tues., March 15 Visit La Mesa & La Zamia Trails
A day up on La Mesa, with a descent to Zamia on the other side is delightful. Atop La Mesa we can walk comfortably on Las Minas Road where we may find many foothills species including one of our favorites, comical Blue-throated Toucanets. In lush clusters of bormeliads that festoon the trees, we encounter Ochracous and Gray-breasted Wood Wrens, on tree trunks we search for both Plain-brown and Spotted Woodcreepers and we listen for Red-faced Spinetails which may sing out from roadside shrubbery. Both White-throated and Pale-vented Thrushes can be found along our route, along with mixed groups of beautiful tanagers such as Silver-throated. Masked Tityras like to call from treetops at the road’s edge and Black-headed Saltators, Tawny-capped and White-vented Euphonias and Spot-crowned Barbets have been seen at local feeders! La Zamia is often an excellent place for us to spot “our” warblers in bright plumage ready to head north any day.
We return to the lodge in the afternoon. Built right into our Lodge is an observation tower where we can observe birds below. Often a Great Antshrike is busy singing away and emerges from the vegetation for some nice views. We may hear the beautiful cascading notes of an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush or watch a mixed flock come through, perhaps with a beautiful Bay-headed Tanager. In the afternoon, this is good spot to scan for raptors such as Swallow-tailed and Gray-headed Kites, White and Short-tailed Hawks, Black Hawk-Eagles, and Bat Falcons. There is a stream that runs through the property, along which we watch for Green Kingfishers, possible Sunbitterns, Buff-rumped Warblers and a host of colorful butterflies, including the brilliant Blue Morpho. A Three-toed Sloth may be seen draped lazily across an open branch.
Accommodations at the Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)
Wed., March 16 Visit El Chiru / Santa Clara Beach
Today, early in the morning, we visit an entirely new habitat, the Pacific Dry Forest which occurs close to the coast. Here we may find flocks of Brown-throated Parakeets Crested Bobwhites, Blue Ground Doves, Striped Cuckoos, Veraguan Mangos (rare and local), Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrants, Pearl Kites, Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, Fork-tailed Flycatchers and more. This habitat is fragmented and disappearing quickly in Panama.
We enjoy views of the ocean from nearby Santa Clara Beach, which hosts a good variety of shorebirds and terns, and in coastal mangrove areas we look for Boat-billed Herons. Agricultural areas are interspersed and in open terrain we often find Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures, Zone-tailed Hawks.
We want you to see Panama’s Golden Frogs and as they are rare in nature and found at high, remote locations, we view them today at El Nispero, a small zoo with a wide selection of native animals and birds, mostly in good-sized cages. The grounds are landscaped with artificial streams and the backdrop is the most dramatic of El Valle's hills. It's a pleasant place to spend an hour wandering round.
We return to our delightful lodgings for another enchanting evening and dinner!
Accommodations at the Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)
Thurs., March 17 Birding Near Canopy Lodge / Panama City / Canopy Tower - Semaphore Hill
We enjoy a final morning of birding on the grounds and trails of our Lodge. Surrounding trees serve as perches for a good diversity of flycatchers including Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Lesser and Yellow-bellied Elaenias, and Boat-billed, Social, and Piratic Flycatchers. During the dry season, raucous Chestnut-headed Oropendolas nest in a colony in the tall Eucalyptus trees in the yard, while Giant Cowbirds sometimes show up looking for an unguarded nest in which to deposit an egg. Along the road near the lodge, we have a good chance of hearing and seeing many species typical of the dry Pacific slope such as Blue-crowned Motmots, Lance-tailed Manakins (difficult to see), Rosy Thrush-Tanagers, and Red-throated Ant-Tanagers. Humid foothill species also are present, including Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrushes, and Dusky-faced and Tawny-crested Tanagers. Watch for larger species like the noisy Gray-headed Chachalacas, Keel-billed Toucans, Collared Aracaris, Black-chested Jays, and Chestnut-headed Oropendolas. It is also worthwhile to keep an eye on the sky, in case a White Hawk or a Black Hawk-Eagle passes overhead.
In the late afternoon we arrive to Semaphore Hill, where we settle into our lodgings at the Canopy Tower and watch sunset and ships passing through the Panama Canal from the observation deck – spectacular!
Accommodations at Canopy Tower (B,L,D)
Fri., March 18 Pipeline Road / Soberania National Park / Discovery Tower
Soberania National Park is considered to be one of Central America’s most accessible areas for bird watching and wildlife observation. Only 45 minutes from Panama City, Soberania's 55,000 acres boast some 525 species of birds. Soberania is also home to 105 species of mammals including large cats, Tamandua (a type of anteater), Two and Three-toed Sloths, 4 species of monkeys, Agouti and 59 endemic plant species that inhabit four life zones. A fabulous Discovery Center, with a Canopy Platform makes viewing easier and most exciting!
After we experience morning in the rainforest canopy from the Tower, we walk along world-renowned Pipeline Road, a prized destination among birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.During World War II, a pipeline was built along the Panama Canal to transport fuel from one ocean to the other in the event the waterway was attacked. Fortunately, it was never used. The road, not open to traffic, provides a lush, easy pathway for us to explore. Thisis the site where the Audubon Society held its world Christmas bird count record for 19 years straight, with 357 species of birds identified in a period of 24 hours. This morning we look for secretive antbirds such as White-flanked and Pygmy Antwrens, and other rainforest birds such as Great Jacamar, Broad-billed Motmots, Blue-crowned and Golden-collared Manakins, and Black-breasted Puffbirds. We will very likely encounter the amazing tropical phenomena of the mixed flock – a veritable explosion of birds that work and feed together, exhibiting complex social structure that scientists are only beginning to understand.
We are close enough to return to the lodge in the mid-day heat and venture out in the cooler afternoon. Or, if the group wishes, we may take lunch and stay out much of the day. Tonight, after dinner, we take a short drive to look for night birds and mammals.
Accommodations at Canopy Tower, (B,L,D)
Sat., March 19 Achiote Road / Fort San Lorenzo / Panama Canal Railroad
Achiote Road is home Panama Audubon Society’s famous Atlantic Christmas Bird Count, often one that exceeds 340 in a 24-hour period! We leave early to miss the traffic and in along the forest edge of this Atlantic-side forest we hope to find Mealy Parrots, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts, Black-throated Trogon, Black-breasted and Pied Puffbirds, Montezuma Oropendolas, Fasciated Antshrikes, secretive antbirds such as Bare-crowned and Bicoloured. In open fields we look for Red-breasted Blackbirds.
Bird activity quiets mid-morning in the forest, at which time we drive east across the isthmus of Panama to the Caribbean province of Colon. Along the way we will stop at a site where remnants of Las Cruces Trail, the 400 year old colonial trail used by the Spaniards to transport gold across the isthmus, are still found. Enjoy lunch at a marina restaurant.
Near Colon, we drive over the Panama Canal at Gatun Locks (another opportunity to see the workings of the Canal) and reach the Castle of San Lorenzo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built at the mouth of the Chagres River, this Spanish bastion served to fortify and protect the river entrance to Las Cruces Trail that led to Panama City on the Pacific Ocean and was later also used as the port of entry for gold diggers on their way to California during the second half of the 19th century. Sir Henry Morgan captured San Lorenzo and used it as a jumping off point to sack Panama City in 1671. Christopher Columbus stopped here on his third voyage in 1503. Birding is excellent in and near the park.
We will be traveling through lush rainforest within San Lorenzo National Park, where we might have the opportunity to see monkeys, Two and Three-toed Sloths, Coatimundis, toucans and other wildlife.
We return by train along the Panama Canal. The Panama Railroad was the first transcontinental railroad in the Western Hemisphere when it opened in 1855. Sit back and relax with a cold drink, a snack and views of Snail Kites feeding at dusk. We have our dinner upon return to the Tower.
Accommodations at Canopy Tower (B,L,D)
Sun., March 20 Panama Canal Rainforest Boat Adventure & Miraflores Locks, Panama Canal Visitor Center
This morning you can sleep in a bit – if you are able over sounds of the Forest just out your door! Others may want to watch sunrise with a good cup of Panamanian coffee from the observation deck. We then explore the waters of the Panama Canal on small boats this morning, quietly moving through coves and inlets in search of wildlife including countless species of birds, reptiles and several species of monkeys. We find this to be he most comfortable and accessible way to discover the natural attributes of the Panama Canal watershed. We have the freedom to explore Gatun Lake in detail, passing by gigantic cargo ships transiting the waterway that we cross. Along the way, we may try to spot Green Iguanas and Three-toed Sloths resting on tree branches, American Crocodiles basking in the sun, and Osprey on the prowl for Peacock Bass. Snail Kites, Greater Anis, Anhingas and Keel-billed Toucans are some of the birds we may encounter.
At the time of its creation, Gatun Lake was the largest man-made lake in the world. The flow of all the rivers within the Panama Canal Watershed is contained in Gatun Lake to provide water for the operation of the lock system. More than 52 million gallons of fresh water are used for every ship that transits through the Panama Canal from one ocean to another. Aboard our jungle boats, we quietly approach rainforest-covered islands to search for White-faced Capuchin, Mantled Howler Monkeys, Black-handed Spider Monkeys, and agile and inquisitive Geoffrey’s Tamarins.
In 1902, after years of negotiation and a disastrous attempt to build the canal (the Suez Canal was opened in 1869…), the U.S. Congress authorized construction of the canal. The project was put on hold, however, when Colombia, which controlled Panama at the time, rejected the authorizing treaty. It was only in 1904, after Panama’s independence that construction could begin. Ten years later, ahead of time and under budget, the Canal was opened to bridge the world. Imagine that first historic passage! The year 2000 marked the end of the U.S. treaty (which had actually been revised several times) and Panama now assumes responsibility for operations of the Canal. Currently, the government of Panama is undertaking the monumental task of expanding the Panama Canal. The US$5.25 billion grand-scale project contemplates the building of even larger 
locks and deepening the channel to accommodate post-Panamax ships, the largest of all cargo ships that now have to bypass this waterway. The project is estimated to be completed by 2015. Today we have the opportunity to look at the advancement of this extraordinary engineering venture at an excellent museum overlooking Miraflores Locks. we arrive at Miraflores locks, where the transition from fresh water to salt water takes place in the lock chambers. Due to the Pacific Ocean’s extreme tidal variations, Miraflores locks’ miter gates are the tallest of the locks system. In two steps, the vessel will be lowered 16.6 meters onto the Pacific Ocean. Near the locks, Fork-tailed Flycatchers often entertain us with acrobatic feats in search of moths and other insects. Celebrate our wonderful adventure with a final dinner at Canopy Tower.
Accommodations at the Canopy Tower (B,L,D)
Mon., March 21 Departures
We invite you to continue with us to the Darien region of Panama. But if you MUST leave, you must. As we are staying just outside Panama City, we’ll coordinate our group departures to reach the airport in the morning in time for flights after 10 AM. If you wish to leave earlier or later, a private airport transfer can be arranged for $55. Those staying on will be taken to the Darien trip’s first night hotel late morning. (B)
Panama’s Wild Darien –
Endemics at the Gateway to South America
Darien National Park & Cana Field Station
March 21-28, 2010
Can be combined with Panama Nature & Culture
March 13-21, 2011
March 21 Panama City / Afternoon to Relax or Explore
Our hosts at the Canopy Tower drop us off at our hotel, situated with a view of the Pan American 
Highway’s Bridge of the America’s. This is a great place to relax, enjoy the pool, and to watch large ships position to transit the Canal. Lunch is at your leisure. In the late afternoon we make a foray to the local handicrafts market. Dinner is at your leisure with some excellent restaurants nearby.
Accommodations in Panama City (B,L)
March 22 Metro Park / Historic Panama City
This morning we walk in Panama City’s Metropolitan Nature Park, the only protected rainforest in the world located within the city limits of a major metropolitan area. Indeed, our guide leads us up to a fabulous viewpoint of the city and its spectacular Oceanside setting. Metropolitan Park covers over 500 acres and has a bird checklist of more than 200 species. Its nature trails make wildlife viewing easy, and we often find a troop of Red-naped Tamarins as well. Some of the birds we may see include roosting Common Potoos, hummingbirds such as White-vented Plumeleteers on blooming trees, secretive species of the shrub habitat such as White-bellied Antbirds and Lance-tailed Manakins, and a sit and wait insect predator, the White-necked Puffbird. Yellow-backed Orioles should serenade us from perches on huge trees that arch over our trail. We are likely to see classic Neotropical species such as spectacular Blue-crowned Motmots sharing habitat with a number of North American migrants which are bright in March as they prepare to migrate and breed.
After a break back at our hotel, we gather mid-afternoon to drive a short ways across the city. We visit the ruins of Panama Viejo, (the original settlement of Panama City, which was burned and sacked by the pirate, Henry Morgan in 1671). Mudflats nearby give us a bit of birding for waders, shorebirds, gulls and terns. We then enjoy dinner at a favorite local restaurant in the historic area of the city near the Cathedral.
Accommodations in Panama City (B,L,D)
March 23 Darien National Park – Santa Cruz de Cana
The pristine valley of Cana in the eastern slope of Pirre mountain range is Darien National Park’s most productive birdwatching destination. Nowhere else in Panama does nature expresses itself so abundantly than in this region of remote wilderness. Explore the trails around Cana Field Station such as the Boca de Cube trail, hike up to Pirre Cloudforest where you spend the night in screened tents and enjoy this unique birding experience in Cana.
This morning we are picked up at the hotel by our Ancon Expeditions of Panama Naturalist Guide for the short transfer to Albrook domestic airport where you board a chartered plane to Santa Cruz de Cana, in the heart of Darien National Park and World Biosphere Reserve, where Ancon Expeditions manages a field station. As you fly in you can admire the vast forest cover of Panama’s largest park (1.3 million acres). Cana is located at the foothills of Pirre Mountain, which stands like an island in the most remote area of Panama. Very few places in the world rival Cana in birding potential. From the plane be on the lookout for King Vultures and Macaws. After getting settled at the Field Station you explore the Boca de Cupe Trail and surrounding area. Specialties here include Blue and Gold, Red and Green, Great Green and Chestnut-fronted Macaws, Black tipped Cotinga, Swallow Tanager, Red-throated Caracara, Streaked Antwren, Dusky-backed Jacamar, Ornate Hawk-Eagle and others. (L,D)
March 24 Cana Field Station and Surrounding Trails
Today is a good day to explore the Mine Trail where rusting machinery was left to be overtaken by the jungle after the British Gold Mine ventures collapsed at the beginning of the last century. Specialties of this area include Great Curassow, Crested Guan, Dusky-faced Tanager, Olivaceous Piculet. Also the Seteganti Trail with open scrub areas and mature forests are good for various Woodpeckers such as Crimson-bellied and Red-rumped, Red-billed Scythebill, Brown Violetear.
Night at CANA FIELD STATION (B,L,D)
March 25 Pirre Forest Camp
Today you begin a slow-paced 5-hour hike to the Pirre Cloud Forest. At 1,200 meters above sea level, the Pirre Cloud Forest is a good place to look for specialties such as Beautiful Treerunner, Tooth-billed Hummingbird, Slaty Antwren, Tody Motmot, Yellow-eared Toucanet, Rufous-breasted Antthrush, Immaculate Antbird, Rufous-vented Ground Cuckoo, Pirre Warbler, Pirre Hummingbird, Pirre Bush Tanager, Greenish Puffleg, Orange-bellied Euphonia. In the afternoon you hike to the top of Pirre Mountain in search of the Golden-headed Quetzal, Gray and gold Tanager, Sharpbill, Chlorophonia and several Tanagers among other highland species. Those that do not wish to make this hike with an overnight at a Forest Camp may stay behind at the Cana Field Station to bird locally and relax.
Night at PIRRE CAMP (Screened tents with sleeping mats) (B,L,D)
Sat., March 26 Cana Field Station
After breakfast we will start our descent to the field station with more birding along the way. This afternoon is spent looking for birds around the main camp. Possibilities include Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Spotted Barbtail, Barred Puffbird, Yellow-green Tyrannulet, Jet Antibird, Black-crowned, Fulvous-bellied, Ochre-breasted and Scaled Antpittas, White-fronted Nunbird, Cinereous Becard, Golden-headed Manakin.
Night at CANA FIELD STATION (B,L,D)
Sun., March 27 Return to Panama City
This morning, after some last minute birding from the airstrip, we return to the domestic airport in Panama City. From here we are dropped at a hotel near the airport to freshen up and relax ahead of flights out the next day. You may depart this evening on a night flight, but as transfers from Cana are weather dependent we cannot guarantee what time we will return to Panama City. We try for morning, but sometimes it is afternoon. We have no planned activities but enjoy dinner together this final evening.
Accommodations in Panama City (B,L,D)
Mon. March 28 Departures
You may leave today at a time convenient for you.
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Cost of the Journey
The cost of this journey is $3250.00 from Panama City. This cost is based on double occupancy and includes all accommodations; meals as specified in the itinerary, group airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. The cost is based on a minimum number of 8 participants, with fewer a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. The cost does not include transportation to or from your home to Panama, or items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone charges, porterage, maid gratuities or beverages from the bar. Single supplement (as available) is actually at a reduced rate, in simpler accommodations with shared bath, for a savings of $330.00 per person. Single supplement with bath, due to the limited number of rooms at these lodges is higher, please contact us for details.
Cost of the Darien Journey is $2140.00 from Panama City.
Note that you can combine these tours for a savings of $100.00 per person.
Guide: Peg Abbott with local guides.
Transportation
Plan to arrive in Panama City at your convenience on March 13th. If you would like to come in a day early to rest or see a bit more of the city we are happy to help with details. Plan to depart on March 21st for the main tour, and March 28th if you have signed on for the Darien.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery.
Photo
credits
Sloth, Trogon, Neotropical Cormorant, Blue Gray Tanager and Emerald Toucanet, Tony Beck - to see more of his images, go to: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; all other photos by Peg Abbott. |
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