Panama Sampler: Birding, Nature & History
March 25 - April 2, 2012, with an optional Panama Canal transit extension, March 23-25, 2012
“Great trip & great birds, guides, good companions, good food, definitely go on another of Peg’s trips. Thanks for your excellent leadership!”
- Lyn Diana and Martha Breed
Panama is an exciting destination for natural history travel and is blessed with a rich culture, past and present. Panama’s lowland rainforests are some of the most remarkable in the world and its highlands provide spectacular mountain scenery. On the narrow land isthmus where the Canal is located (only 50 miles wide), the flora and fauna of North and South America blend with astonishing diversity. With 928 species of birds, 1,500 known species of trees, and over 10,000 species of plants, it is a tropical paradise for nature travelers. Best of all, we find few crowds, spend time at two well-known and lovely lodges where we also sample
excellent regional cuisine.
Join us to experience time in varied habitats as we search for Panama’s legendary birds and mammals. We move only once, spending 4 nights at each of our lodges.
Our first lodge is up in the mountains, where the cool climate and rural charm of country life compliments our nature experience. Beautiful Canopy Lodge is surrounded by nature and we dine alfresco with tremendous views of mountains and bustling bird feeders nearby. The second lodge is totally unique. Accommodations are set in a lush, lowland rainforest where we may see Red Howler Monkeys, Agoutis, Coatimundis and an array of beautifully colored birds including trogons, toucans, puffbirds, aracaris, parrots, manakins, motmots and more.
Along with excellent field time we visit local markets, Miraflores Locks, a highlight of our trip is a partial transit, including passage through several locks, of the Panama Canal! Gain first-hand knowledge of the workings and the history of the Canal as we enjoy the scenery and novelty of crossing this famous passage. While in Panama City, we will also visit Panama Viejo, the old part of the city, the national archaeological museum and the excellent Panama Canal Museum.
ITINERARY
Sun., March 25 Arrivals in Panama City
Arrive today at Tocumen International Airport in Panama City, the capital of Panama, which has a population of approximately 750,000 residents. Meet your guides and travel companions on arrival.
To coordinate a group transfer to our hotel, we’ll post the time to be at the airport, based on our recommended flight or flights from the U.S. Those arriving early to transit the Panama Canal the day previous will be picked up at the hotel that we’ve booked for this extension.
Enjoy a quick glimpse of Casco Viejo, an historic part of Panama City with a lovely cathedral, historic buildings, and grand view of the adjacent, modern part of the city. Vendors tempt you with baskets, carvings, jewelry and other handicrafts as we learn about the city’s history.
As we leave the city, enjoy birding an excellent Ramsar Wetland site, renowned for its teaming numbers of shorebirds, right in Panama City! At Costa de Este, along with tens of thousands of shorebirds, we often find Tricolored Herons, Gull-billed Terns, Reddish Egrets and other species.
Our route parallels the Panama Canal and we watch ships pass by as we go.
In the next few days, the Canal is ever present, providing a great opportunity to understand its operations (past and present), its recent expansion and the role it plays in Panama’s economy. Nature starts to prevail, in lush forests that line the road as we turn up Semaphore Hill and the road to our lodgings at the Canopy Tower. Settle in to some of the most unique eco-lodge accommodations known, and before a delicious dinner, watch sunset and ships passing through the Panama Canal from the observation deck – spectacular!
Accommodations at Canopy Tower Lodge, Panama (D)
Mon., March 26 Semaphore Hill/Fort San Lorenzo/Panama Canal Railroad
We start the day with optional early morning birding from the top of Canopy Tower, followed by breakfast, then a walk down Semaphore Hill. Lush forests line the road, and we never know what we may find! Black-breasted Puffbirds, Double-toothed Kites, Black-tailed or other trogons, secretive antbirds or wrens, Geoffrey’s Tamarins, and more are possible. This is a leisurely walk, downhill, and the lodge’s open-air vehicle is waiting for us to return as bird activity quiets mid-morning.
Enjoy time to photograph, browse the extensive library at the Tower, or observe the hummingbird behavior and occurrence at the feeders ahead of our lunch.
After lunch, we drive east across the Isthmus of Panama to the Caribbean province of Colon. Near Colon, we drive over the Panama Canal at Gatun Locks (another opportunity to see the workings of the Canal) and reach the Castle of San Lorenzo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built at the mouth of the Chagres River, this Spanish bastion served to fortify and protect the river entrance to Las Cruces Trail that led to Panama City on the Pacific Ocean and was later also used as the port of entry for gold diggers on their way to California during the second half of the 19th century. Sir Henry Morgan captured San Lorenzo and used it as a jumping off point to sack Panama City in 1671. Christopher Columbus stopped here on his third voyage in 1503. Birding is excellent in and near the park as well, with species like Broad-billed Motmot, Mangrove Black Hawk and others.
We return by train along the Panama Canal. The Panama Railroad was the first transcontinental railroad in the Western Hemisphere when it opened in 1855. Sit back and relax with a cold drink, a snack and views of Snail Kites feeding at dusk. We have our dinner upon return to the Tower.
Accommodations at Canopy Tower Lodge (B,L,D)
Tues., March 27 Pipeline Road/Soberania National Park/Discovery Tower
Soberania National Park is considered to be one of Central America’s most spectacular and accessible areas for bird watching and wildlife observation. Only 45 minutes from 
Panama City, Soberania's 55,000 acres boast some 525 species of birds. Soberania is also home to 105 species of mammals including large cats, Tamandua (a type of anteater), Two and Three-toed sloths, 4 species of monkeys, Agouti and 59 endemic plant species that inhabit four life zones. A fabulous Discovery Center, with a Canopy Platform makes viewing easier and most exciting!
After we experience morning in the rainforest canopy from the park’s Discovery Tower, we walk along world-renowned Pipeline Road, a prized destination among birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.During World War II, a pipeline was built along the Panama Canal to transport fuel from one ocean to the other in the event the waterway was attacked. Fortunately, it was never used. The road, not open to traffic, provides a lush, easy pathway for us to explore. Thisis the site where the Audubon Society held its world Christmas bird count record for 19 years straight, with 357 species of birds identified in a period of 24 hours. This morning we look for secretive antbirds such as White-flanked and Pygmy antwrens, and other rainforest birds such as Great Jacamar, 
Broad-billed Motmots, Blue-crowned and Golden-collared Manakins, Brown Twistwings, and some of the rarer forest raptors. We will likely encounter the tropical phenomena of the mixed flock – a veritable explosion of birds that work and feed together, exhibiting complex social structure that scientists are only beginning to understand.
We return to the lodge for lunch and a mid-day break, then venture out to a very productive pond near Gamboa, where we hope to find Rufescent Tiger Herons, Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, Yellow-tailed Orioles, Lesser Kiskadees and other interesting species.
Accommodations at Canopy Tower Lodge (B,L,D)
Wed., March 28 Panama Canal Rainforest Boat Adventure & Miraflores Locks/Panama Canal Visitor Center/Summit Ponds
This morning you can sleep in a bit – if you are able over sounds of the 
forest just out your door! Others may want to watch sunrise with a good cup of Panamanian coffee from the observation deck. After breakfast, we explore the waters of the Panama Canal on small boats, quietly moving through coves and inlets in search of wildlife including countless species of birds, reptiles and Mantled Howler and White-faced Capuchin monkeys. We find this to be the most comfortable and accessible way to discover the natural attributes of the Panama Canal watershed. We have the freedom to explore Gatun Lake in detail, passing by gigantic cargo ships transiting the waterway that we cross. Along the way, we should spot Green Iguanas and Three-toed Sloths resting on tree branches, American Crocodiles basking in the sun, and Osprey on the prowl for Peacock Bass. Snail Kites, Greater Anis, Limpkins, Anhingas and Keel-billed Toucans are some of the birds we may encounter.
At the time of its creation, Gatun Lake was the largest man-made lake in the world. The flow of all the rivers within the Panama Canal Watershed is contained in Gatun Lake to provide water for the operation of the lock system. More than 52 million gallons of fresh water are used for every ship that transits through the Panama Canal from one ocean to another.
In 1902, after years of negotiation and a disastrous attempt to build the canal (the Suez Canal was opened in 1869…), the U.S. Congress authorized construction of the canal. The project was put on hold, however, when Colombia, which controlled Panama at the time, rejected the authorizing treaty. It was only in 1904, after Panama’s independence that construction could begin. Ten years later, ahead of time and under budget, the Canal was opened to bridge the world. Imagine that first historic passage! The year 2000 marked the end of the U.S. 
treaty (which had actually been revised several times) and Panama now assumes responsibility for operations of the Canal. Currently, the government of Panama is undertaking the monumental task of expanding the Panama Canal. The US$5.25 billion grand-scale project contemplates the building of even larger locks and deepening the channel to accommodate post-Panamax ships, the largest of all cargo ships that now have to bypass this waterway. The project is estimated to be completed by 2015.
Today we have the opportunity to look at the advancement of this extraordinary engineering venture at an excellent museum overlooking Miraflores Locks. At Miraflores locks, the transition from fresh water to salt water takes place in the lock chambers. Due to the Pacific Ocean’s extreme tidal variations, Miraflores Locks’ miter gates are the tallest of the locks system. In two steps, the vessel will be lowered 16.6 meters onto the Pacific Ocean. Near the locks, Fork-tailed Flycatchers often entertain us with acrobatic feats in search of moths and other insects.
En route back from the locks, we make a stop at Summit Ponds, a wonderful, leisurely birding area where even in the quiet time of afternoon we find roosting Boat-billed Herons and a host of interesting species. Here there is a lot of edge of open and forest areas, and good numbers of migrant warblers join resident tropical species making it a very rewarding stop. This is our last evening at the Tower and we gather on the observation deck for sunset and the sight of birds returning to roosts ahead of dinner.
Accommodations at the Canopy Tower Lodge (B,L,D)
Thurs., March 29 Pipeline Road
This morning we return to legendary Pipeline Road early, this time to walk and bird as our first visit was mainly dedicated to a watch from the Discovery Tower. We travel by open-air vehicle which allows us to hear and see species as we go. This is some of the most diverse lowland tropical rainforest of the world and today we soak it all in!
Mid-morning, we return to Canopy Tower to freshen up, pack up and be on our way to the 
Canopy Lodge, a whole new adventure! On arrival we find a host of hummingbirds, tanagers and oropendolas at feeders adjacent to the open-air dining area. Close up views of tanagers: Lemon-rumped, Crimson-backed, White-lined, and Blue-Gray, as well as electric Red-legged Honeycreepers. Clay-colored Thrushes, Streaked Saltators, and Yellow-faced Grassquits provide us with intrigue throughout our stay. Sometimes more secretive Rufous Motmots or Orange-billed Sparrows come in to vegetation or one of the feeders!
We meet new local guides here, who are eager to share secrets of bird specialties of the forest trails that lead out from the Lodge. Two often-difficult to see Neotropic species can be found at times here, Tody Motmots and Rufous-vented Cuckoos. At all times there are a host of fascinating species. Basilisk Lizards sun themselves on rocks along the stream. Broad-billed and Rufous Motmots, Chestnut-backed Antbirds, and even Dull-mantled Antbirds are often present along the trail.
Trees surrounding the lodge serve as perches for a good diversity of flycatchers including Southern Beardless-Tyrannulets, Lesser and Yellow-bellied Elaenias, and Boat-billed, Social, and Piratic Flycatchers. During the dry season, raucous Chestnut-headed Oropendolas nest in a colony in the tall Eucalyptus trees in the yard, while Giant Cowbirds sometimes show up looking for an unguarded nest in which to deposit an egg.
Along the road near the lodge, we have a good chance of hearing and seeing many species typical of the dry Pacific slope such as Blue-crowned Motmots, Lance-tailed Manakins (difficult to see), Rosy Thrush-Tanagers, and Red-throated Ant-Tanagers. Humid foothill species also are present, including Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrushes, and Dusky-faced and Tawny-crested Tanagers. Watch for larger species like the noisy Gray-headed Chachalacas, Keel-billed Toucans, Collared Aracaris, and Black-chested Jays. It is also worthwhile to keep an eye on the sky, in case a White Hawk or a Black Hawk-Eagle passes overhead.
The food here is wonderful, as is the atmosphere we dine within. Enjoy!
Accommodations at the Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)
Fri., March 30 La Mesa & La Zamia Trails
A day up on La Mesa, with a descent to Zamia on the other side is delightful. Atop La Mesa we can walk comfortably on Las Minas Road where we may find many foothills species including one of our favorites, comical Blue-throated Toucanets. In lush clusters of bromeliads that festoon the trees, we encounter Ochracous and Gray-breasted Wood wrens, on tree trunks we search for both Plain-brown and Spotted Woodcreepers and we listen for Red-faced Spinetails which may sing out from roadside shrubbery. Both White-throated and Pale-vented thrushes can be found along our route, along with mixed groups of beautiful tanagers such as Silver-throated. Masked Tityras like to call from treetops at the road’s edge and Black-headed Saltators, Tawny-capped and White-vented Euphonias and Spot-crowned Barbets have been seen at local feeders! La Zamia is often an excellent place for us to spot “our” warblers in bright plumage ready to head north any day.
We return to the lodge in the afternoon. Built right into our Lodge is an observation tower where we can observe birds below. Often a Great Antshrike is busy singing away and emerges from the vegetation for some nice views. We may hear the beautiful cascading notes of an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush or watch a mixed flock come through, perhaps with a beautiful Bay-headed Tanager. In the afternoon, this is good spot to scan for raptors such as Swallow-tailed and Gray-headed Kites, White and Short-tailed Hawks, Black Hawk-Eagles, and Bat Falcons. There is a stream that runs through the property, along which we watch for Green Kingfishers, possible Sunbitterns, Buff-rumped Warblers and a host of colorful butterflies, including the brilliant Blue Morpho. A Three-toed Sloth may be seen draped lazily across an open branch or peeking out behind large leaves of a Cecropia tree.
Accommodations at Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)
Sat., March 31 Visit El Chiru/Santa Clara Beach
Today, early in the morning, we visit an entirely new habitat, the Pacific Dry Forest which occurs close to the coast. Here we may find flocks of Brown-throated Parakeets, Crested Bobwhites, Blue Ground Doves, Striped Cuckoos, Veraguan Mangos (a rare and local hummingbird), Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrants, Pearl Kites, Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, Fork-tailed Flycatchers and more. This habitat is fragmented and disappearing quickly in Panama, but we search one of the better areas remaining.
We enjoy views and a quick swim if you like, at the ocean of Santa Clara Beach, which hosts a good variety of shorebirds and terns. Agricultural areas are interspersed and in open terrain and here we often find Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures and Zone-tailed Hawks.
We want you to see Panama’s Golden Frogs and as they are rare in nature and found at high, remote locations, so en route back, we view them at El Nispero, a small zoo in El Valle with a wide selection of native animals and birds, mostly in good-sized cages. The grounds are landscaped with artificial streams and the backdrop is the most dramatic of El Valle's hills. It's a pleasant place to spend an hour wandering round.
We return to our delightful lodgings for another enchanting evening and dinner!
Accommodations at Canopy Tower Lodge (B,L,D)
Sun., April 1 El Valle Market/Local Birding/Canopy Adventure
Sunday is market day, a fun local venture that brings many families into town as vendors of produce and handicrafts. It’s a great way to experience a sense of rural Panamanian life. After this, we walk a birding trail close to the lodge, one where we take in views of a beautiful waterfall. This Canopy Adventure trail hosts Gray-chested Doves, Dusky Antbirds, Great Antshrikes, Black-faced Antthrushes, Rufous-and-white and Rufous-breasted Wrens, and Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers frequently.
As bird activity quiets down, we see if any of our own group wants to feel like birds by traveling along a zipline through the canopy, an optional adventure to try if you wish! Those not partaking will enjoy having cameras ready. We then return to the Lodge. Relax on your porch, browse through books in the open-air library or wander the grounds where Stripe-throated Hermits, Violet-headed and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds may visit some purple verbena flowers. You may even glimpse the rare Rufous-crested Coquette!
In the afternoon we venture out to explore the nearby area of El Valle which has some petroglyphs -- rocks decorated with what are believed to be pre-Colombian art. The rocks with their strange designs are worth a visit, if only for the walk there that gives you lovely views of the valley. It's about a five-minute walk from the clearing where we park our car, and we can always continue further uphill past the petroglyphs. We follow a path that leads on upstream passing several small waterfalls as it twists and turns towards the top of La India Dormida -- a hill in the shape of a sleeping woman. Gardens and homes of the area stand bright with bougainvillea, a beautiful background for our explorations!
This evening we have a wrap-up with trip highlights, a tally of species we’ve seen and a wonderful final dinner at the lodge.
Accommodations at Canopy Lodge (B,L,D)
Mon., April 2 Departures
Enjoy one last morning to listen to nature as your alarm clock as dawn comes to the verdant forest surrounding the lodge.
PLAN AHEAD!
Protect yourself with Allianz Travel Insurance (formerly Access America).
Offset your Carbon Footprint. Show us the receipt and we'll take 50% - up to $50.00 - of your carbon offset fee off your final payment!
COST
OF THE JOURNEY
The cost of this journey is $3390.00 from Panama City. This cost is based on double occupancy and includes all accommodations; meals as specified in the itinerary, group airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. The cost is based on a minimum number of 6 participants, with fewer a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. The cost does not include transportation to or from your home to Panama, or items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone charges, porterage, maid gratuities or beverages from the bar. Single supplement (as available) is $TBD*.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Please plan to arrive by 3PM to Panama City. We will suggest one or more flights that work with this time (or earlier) as we would like to do a bit of birding en route and reach the Tower in time to enjoy dinner and the evening. If you must arrive later, an individual transfer can be arranged (additional cost). Plan to depart after NOON. If you are arriving on March 23rd or earlier to transit the Canal on Saturday, we will help with your hotel and transit arrangements, and a guided city tour if you wish.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery.
Photo
Credits
Harbor at Fort San Lorenzo, Bob Behrstock www.naturewideimages.com; Orange-bellied Trogon and Reg-legged Honeycreeper, Karen LeMay; all other photos by Peg Abbott. |
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