Trinidad & Tobago
Tropical Biology & Birding Workshop
June 21 – July 1, 2008

Join us for a Tropical Biology and Birding Workshop in which knowledge augments the beauty of tropical forests on the two very different islands of Trinidad and Tobago. Drs. Howard Topoff and Carol Simon know how to make learning interactive and fun. Their specialties are animal behavior, ecology, and evolutionary biology. Their teaching style encourages a sense of discovery as you follow the trails of Leafcutter Ants, study the dancing leks of manakins, search for fruit-eating noctural Oilbirds, walk island coastlines to see nesting Leatherback Sea Turtles, and snorkel above coral reefs where fish abound. On each island, expert local guides add birding expertise. From the porch of Asa Wright you’ll surely marvel as you watch a parade of jewel-toned birds right before your eyes!

Because of its proximity to South America, Trinidad hosts a greater diversity of flora and fauna than the other isles of the West Indies. Approximately 430 species of birds, 108 mammals, 2,300 flowering plants, and over 600 species of butterflies have been recorded on the island. Tobago, with more Caribbean characteristics, hosts approximately 200 species of birds, including 12 not found on Trinidad. As recently as the end of the Pleistocene (when sea levels were significantly lower), Trinidad and Tobago were likely connected. Today, Trinidad is distinctly tropical, with 80-200 inches of rainfall a year in some areas; 20 miles to the northeast, Tobago is drier and windier, an idyllic climate that resembles that of the Lesser Antilles.

The Asa Wright Nature Centre, our base for four nights, is ideally situated at a pleasant 1,300 ft. The Centre (and its adjacent research facility, SIMLA) was the site of early seminal research on tropical ecology. Birding from the veranda here is one of the world’s most exciting ornithological experiences. At dawn we can watch Ruby-topaz Hummingbirds, Purple Honeycreepers, and Bay-headed Tanagers come in to the feeders. We explore this 200-acre sanctuary, walking on trails through lush, intriguing forests. Here we can compare the lek behavior of three species, the White-bearded and Golden-headed Manakins and the Bearded Bellbird. Learn why Iguanid and Tegu Lizards tongue flick, how bats and oilbirds navigate in the dark, and how color plays a part in learned feeding behavior of hummingbirds. At night we venture out to spot night birds such as pootoos and nightjars, and set up a spotlight to attract katydids, mantids, walking sticks, colorful beetles and other insects of the night.

From the Asa Wright Centre, we continue on to Trinidad’s Northeast Corner, for two nights at Grand Riviere. From our beachside accommodations, we explore the surrounding hillsides to search for Trinidad’s only endemic bird, the striking Trinidad Piping Guan. Locally known as Pawi, numbers of this endangered species are recovering due to success with educational campaigns and community projects. We also visit Matura Beach, to look for Red Howler Monkeys. Night-viewing of massive Leatherback Sea Turtles is a highlight of the trip!

We continue with four nights on Tobago. We explore from an intimate 10-room lodge set in lush forests, and then from beachfront lodging, with opportunities to swim, snorkel and take a glass-bottomed boat to an offshore seabird sanctuary. Carol and Howard’s multimedia presentation on Coral Reefs provides insight into the underwater realm!

ITINERARY

Sat., June 21 Arrival in Port of Spain
Plan to arrive no later than mid-afternoon at Piarco International Airport in Port of Spain, Trinidad. Here, a warm gust of tropical air greets you upon leaving the plane. Local guides meet arriving travelers at the airport, and drive about an hour into the cooler mountains to our accommodations at the famed Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Once settled in, Asa Wright Centre naturalists join us on the veranda, from which we often spot a shy mammal, the Agouti, and numerous colorful birds such as Violaceous Trogon, Channel-billed Toucan, Chestnut Woodpecker, and mixed flocks of such beauties as the Turquoise and Bay-headed Tanagers. Carol and Howard present their first of several multi-media talks to introduce you to Tropical Forests of Trinidad before we join other Centre guests to relax with a cup of tea or the local specialty, rum punch. At the feeders we find a colorful array of honeycreepers and tanagers. Our dinner entrees will feature local fruits and vegetables, many of which are grown right here at the Centre.
Accommodations at Asa Wright Nature Centre (D)

Sun., June 22 Asa Wright Nature Centre / Night Creatures – Large and Small!
Awaken to the raucous noise of the Crested Oropendola, or Barred Antshrike, a species that does a marvelous rendition of an alarm clock. Guests typically gather at dawn for fresh local coffee, morning birdwatching and to see the sun rise over a pristine expanse of forest. One has the feeling of being perched in a tree house surveying all below. In the early hours, you’ll soon learn to recognize the haunting notes of Little Tinamou. Many visitors tell of seeing 20 life-birds before the first breakfast! We take advantage of the veranda and let the birds come to us: hummingbirds such as the White-chested Emerald, Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Tufted Coquette, and the White-necked Jacobin visit the gardens and feeders, as well as other colorful birds such as Green Honeycreeper, Red legged Honeycreeper, Turquoise Tanager, and Violaceous Euphonia.

This morning we walk the Centre’s network of trails, taking time to carefully observe animal behavior and communication. Our route takes us to a courtship display area for two species of manakins and the Bearded Bellbird. Deep in the forest, the White-bearded Manakin does a ritualized courtship dance complete with a snap, crackle, and pop. This small dynamo hurls himself from twig to twig, his activity attracting more males to come to the lek, which will then be more attractive to the real goal – females! The Golden-headed Manakin has a different twist on this, and the Bearded Bellbird adds a strong vocal component. All this leads to LOTS of questions, which Howard and Carol help you sort out in a multi-media presentation on the Ritualization: The Evolution of Animal Communication, which they present after lunch.

Mid-to-late afternoon, we venture down the mountain to a national park, established on the old WW II U.S. airbase, Waller Field. This is a good open area with Moriche Palms where Red-bellied Macaws come in to roost. Before dusk we may also find Fork-tailed Palm Swift, Sulphury and Bran-colored Flycatchers, and both Little and Striped Cuckoo as well. Enjoy this spectacle, a picnic dinner, and then as darkness falls, we look for night birds such as White-tailed Nightjar, Common Pauraque, Barn Owl and Common Potoo. If the weather cooperates, we also enjoy incredible star-filled skies.
Accommodations at Asa Wright Nature Centre (B,L,D)

Mon., June 23 Trinidad’s Northern Range / SIMLA Research Station / Night Insects
Today we explore Trinidad’s picturesque Northern Range, driving a winding mountain road to a viewpoint across the range and a trail that winds through the forest. En route, we see a change in plant life as we climb in elevation to the highest moist forest on the island – home to White-tailed and Collared Trogons, Tropical Pewee, and both Swallow and Speckled Tanagers. As we walk trails lined with Elephant Ear Philodendrons, ferns, and mosses, we look for the insect creatures of the forest realm. Learn more about the co-evolution of insects and their host plants and observe the incredible behavior of Leaf-cutter and other ants, termites and other social insects. You can then test your behavior-watching skills on the avian realm. Observe the sit-and-wait predator strategies of Rufous-tailed Jacamar. Along the ridgeline we scan the sky for predatory raptors: Bat Falcon, Ornate Hawk Eagle, Common Black Hawk, and the acrobatic Swallow-tailed Kite. Upon return to Asa Wright, Carol and Howard summarize the day’s exploring with a presentation on Tropical Social Insects. After a delicious dinner at the Centre, join a night walk if you choose! We often find the eye-shine of spiders, lots of large insect activity, sleeping birds and more!
Accommodations at Asa Wright Nature Centre (B, L, D)

Tues., June 24 Oilbird Cave Walk / Lek Species / Caroni Swamp & Scarlet Ibis
This morning we hike along one of the Centre’s trails to nearby Dunstan Cave, a grotto on the Guacharo River. Here we’ll look for the fascinating Oilbird, an 18-inch, nocturnal, fruit-eating bird. Related to whippoorwills and nightjars, the Oilbird forages over hundreds of square miles and is thus an important disperser of large seeds. A good trail leads us through beautiful rainforest, and the geology of the cave is interesting as well. On our way back, we check again the leks of White-bearded and Golden-headed Manakins, which along with Bearded Bellbird perform elaborate ritualized dances to attract their mates. Learn more about Courtship and Mating Strategies of Animals today as part of Howard and Carol’s fascinating multi-media presentation.

Mid-afternoon, we depart for the famous Caroni Swamp to see its fantastic waterbirds: Scarlet Ibis, Neotropical Cormorant, Anhinga, Least Bittern, and Roseate Spoonbill. As we glide along the mangrove-lined canal we search for Silky Anteater, roosting bats, Greater Ani, Pied Water-tyrant, and Red-capped Cardinal. The Caroni protects mangrove forests that exhibit unique adaptations to brackish water conditions. From our boats, we watch the spectacular flight of Scarlet Ibis coming to roost at dusk – some returning from feeding as far away as Venezuela, across the 7-10 mile ocean gap! Returning slowly along mangrove-lined channels after dark, we listen for the mysterious sounding (and looking!) Common Potoo and the nocturnal Boat-billed Heron.
Accommodations at Asa Wright Nature Centre (B, L, D)

Wed., June 25 Aripo Savannah / Grande Riviere / Leatherback Turtles
From the Asa Wright Centre, we continue on to Trinidad’s Northeast Corner, for two nights at Grand Riviere. There are several areas to visit en route that let us explore different habitats, from savannah to seacoast and wetlands. Our guides will select the best route according to recent sightings. We plan to visit the Aripo Savannah to explore different habitat, where we hope to see raptors such as Savanna Hawk, Yellow-headed Caracara and other birds such as Southern Lapwing, Red-breasted Blackbird and Masked Yellowthroat.

Mid-morning we continue on to Matura Beach, an area known for its successful Nature Seekers and Earthwatch conservation project on Leatherback Sea Turtles. Another species that finds refuge in the forested hillsides of Matura Beach is the Red Howler Monkey. Of the seven species of howler monkeys in Central and South America, the cinnamon-colored Red Howler is the most beautiful. A forest trail allows us to view these social primates as they feed and socialize in their family units. Their morning and late-afternoon vocalizations are among the loudest sounds made by any animals in the world! Our hotel, on Trinidad's remote and beautiful northeast coast, has a lush rain-forest backdrop and expansive beach. Enjoy some free time in the later afternoon to relax and explore!

Before dinner, as darkness falls, Carol and Howard offer a multimedia presentation on the Behavior and Ecology of Sea Turtles. This prepares us for the night’s spectacle of watching nest construction by Leatherback Sea Turtles, a highlight of the trip! Then enjoy dinner, as the restaurant serves extraordinary Creole dishes featuring seafood caught just off the premises.
Accommodations at Le Grande Almandier (B, L, D)

Thurs., June 26 Trinidad Piping Guans / Caribbean Coast
From our beachside accommodations, we explore the surrounding hillsides to search for Trinidad’s only endemic bird, the striking Trinidad Piping Guan. Locally known as Pawi, numbers of this endangered species are slowing coming back due to success with educational campaigns and community projects. Project Pawi is the recent winner of a $14,500 BP Conservation Award; we learn more about the project and the challenge of saving endangered species worldwide. We continue to bird the area searching among coconut palms for the tiny but tough Pearl Kite. We are again near mangroves and look for Pygmy Kingfisher and the secretive Black-crested Antshrike.

Enjoy lunch at the lodge, some time for the beach and relaxing, and gather in the afternoon to learn from Carol and Howard talk about the Social Behavior of Monkeys of Central and South America. In the evening choose to relax, or to go out again on the beach to see the giant turtles.
Accommodations at Le Grande Almandier (B, L, D)

Fri., June 27 On to Tobago!
Today we drive back to Port of Spain , where we catch our short (25-minute) flight to Tobago, an island with a strong Caribbean flair. Tobago’s scenic mountains comprise the final link of a mountain range extending from the Venezuelan Coastal Range to the very edge of the South American continental shelf. At the small airport, Brown Pelicans, Magnificent Frigatebirds, and a variety of gulls and terns may greet us. We drive across the island -- making birding stops en route -- and check into the delightful Cuffie River Nature Retreat, a small 10-room inn tucked into the forest. Relax before our evening meal; enjoy a swim in the pool, followed by a delicious dinner.
Accommodations at Cuffie River Lodge (B, L, D)

Sat., June 28 Tobago’s Forests
This morning we join our local guide for a full morning hike along the Cuffie River Trail, a beautiful route through the forest. In the deep, shaded ravine we look for White-tailed Saberwing, Blue-backed Manakin, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Yellow-legged Thrush, and other Tobago specialties. Collared Trogon may utter their distinctive calls, and we should also find Red-crowned Woodpecker and Ruby-topaz Hummingbird. Butterflies and other insects rival the birds for their beauty, form and pattern. While our local guide is looking UP, Howard and Carol are looking DOWN, and between them you won’t miss a living creature. After seeing a startling array of color in the day’s insects and birds, pull your sightings together in light of current knowledge on the Evolution of Animal Coloration and Pattern, a multi-media talk by Carol and Howard given prior to dinner. Dining at this lodge is always a treat; afterwards, relax and enjoy the evening air.
Accommodations at Cuffie River Lodge (B,L,D)

Sun. June 29 Crossing Tobago’s Mountains / Speyside
Today we cross Tobago’s mountains to the other side of the island at Speyside, with sightseeing stops and a hike in Tobago’s rainforest en route. Atop the mountainous ridgeline that divides the island, we enjoy a picnic lunch, then a walk in the world’s oldest forest reserve, established by the British Crown in 1765. Hurricane damage has been frequent here and the recovering forest is rich in palms and Jurassic-era tree ferns. It was here that Adolphus James, a local birding specialist, re-discovered the White-tailed Saberwing after many years of absence. Compare the rainforest structure here to Trinidad’s tropical moist forest and enjoy a hike.

Once at Blue Waters Inn, located on a secretive cove of the Caribbean near Speyside, the ocean will be calling! The beach is great for swimming, you can snorkel from the beach over on the rocky headland between it and town, and there are sea-kayaks to use. The water is so clear you can observe the reef and some of its creatures from the kayaks. Birds are fun here as well. Ruddy Turnstones feed on crumbs from the beachfront restaurant, and tropicbirds and boobies can be spotted offshore. The hotel logo is the Blue-crowned Motmot, which are remarkably tame here, sometimes sleeping on the porch lights of the rooms! In the morning we wake to raucous calls of Rufous-vented Chachalaca.

The late afternoon is to do as you please – snorkel, swim, walk the beach, sea kayak, or just relax. Dinner at Blue Waters is chosen from the menu, which often features fresh Kingfish, likely caught that day!
Accommodations at Blue Water’s Inn, Tobago (B,L,D)

Mon., June 30 Little Tobago Island / Optional Snorkeling
This morning we visit Little Tobago Island, with rugged cliffs that support a large seabird nesting sanctuary. Riding to the island on a glass-bottomed boat, we watch for Leatherback and Hawksbill Sea Turtles and colorful fish inhabiting the coral reef. On the island a good trail traverses this dry and rugged small offshore isle where cactus and arid-habitat shrubs dominate the eastern (windward) side. We hike to observe nesting colonies of Red-billed Tropicbird and Red-footed and Brown Boobies, and search for Sooty and Noddy Terns. While walking through forests of Fan Palm and Gumbo Limbo to reach the seabird cliffs, we may see Chivi Vireo, Tropical Mockingbird, White-tipped Dove, or the perky little Bananaquit.

Those that enjoy snorkeling will want to go out in the boat (optional activity) mid-afternoon to best experience the reef. This is weather dependent, and some may prefer to just relax on the beach, or venture off to explore Speyside, a charming Caribbean town. Any of the activities provide a great way to spend our final day – immersed in the ambiance of the Caribbean. Before dinner, Carol and Howard give the underwater realm new meaning with a multi-media talk on Coral Reefs: An Oasis In The “Desert.”. We enjoy a farewell dinner and review highlights of our time together.
Accommodations at Blue Water’s Inn, Tobago (B,L,D)

Tues., July 1 Departures
Our adventure comes to an end as we head across the island to the airport for flights back to the U.S. We do have about a 2 ½ hour drive back to the Tobago airport. If you are making connections to Port of Spain in Trinidad before departing the islands, this may require an overnight stay. We can recommend a hotel close to the airport in Tobago, or a hotel in Port of Spain, Trinidad. The advantage to staying in Tobago is ease of transport – everything is very simple. Port of Spain is a large city, but we do know of a nice hotel – it will require transport by taxi. Remember that if you take a morning flight out of Tobago, with the drive to the airport and time needed at the airport, it means a super early departure! If you can catch a mid-day flight, that works out perfectly, but do what you must to reach home.

 

Cost of the Journey The cost of the journey is $3390.00 from Port of Spain, Trinidad. This cost is based on double occupancy; single supplement (as available) is $450.00. The cost includes all accommodations, most meals as noted in the itinerary, airport transfers, professional guide services, local park and other area entrance fees, and miscellaneous program costs. This cost is based on a minimum of 10 persons; if there are fewer than 10, a small-group surcharge (typically $100-$300 may apply. Tour cost does not include round trip airfare arriving in Port of Spain and departing Tobago, optional activities (such as snorkeling from the boat at Blue Waters Inn), or items of a personal nature such as laundry, porterage, beverages from the bar (including soft drinks), telephone charges, or gratuities for local drivers and guides (which are left to your discretion). Travel Arrangements NOTE: In order to catch a flight to Trinidad early in the day (June 21), you may need to stay overnight in Miami or New York. If you do overnight, we recommend that your overnight stop be Miami or New York, rather than Port of Spain, but we can recommend a nice hotel in Port of Spain if needed. (Please note: if you come a day ahead you may be able to arrive early to the Centre, but do check as reservations are limited). If you are routing through Miami and need to spend the night, we suggest the Marriott complex of hotels near the airport (a Fairfield, a Courtyard, and a Marriott situated together that share pool and restaurant facilities, so you can choose the type of room and rate you wish to pay). Some airlines allow you to leave direct to the U.S. from Tobago, others will route you back through Port of Spain. Photo Credits: Red Howler Monkey, Drs. Howard Topoff and Carol Simon; Leaf Cutter Ant, Dr. Alex Mintzer; Common Pootoo, Tony Beck - www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

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