Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks:
American birding and mammals amid spectacular scenery
July 28 - August 11, 2008

Join our British friends from Heatherlea Birding and Peg Abbott for a tremendous tour of both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, as we visit spectacular locations to see a fantastic range of birds and mammals. We also add four major wildlife refuges, giving you the chance to visit some little-travelled wilderness sites where you will love the open spaces and vistas, and where we can focus on nature amidst a real feeling of solitude.

Summer is a time of abundance in Yellowstone, and we should see high numbers of mammals every day. Gray Wolf, Black and Grizzly Bear,American Bison at the rut (we are here at the peak time for this), Red Fox, Coyote, Pronghorn, Bighorn Sheep, Elk, Moose, Mule Deer, White-tailed Deer, River Otter, American (Pine) Marten, American Beaver, American Badger – no wonder Yellowstone has been compared to a safari in Africa!

While Yellowstone is best recognized for its mammals, birds are spectacular too, and we plan to find many classic bird species such as Trumpeter Swan, White-faced Ibis, Ruffed and Blue Grouse, American Three-toed Woodpecker, Western Tanager, Black-headed Grosbeak, Bald Eagle, Golden Eagle, Steller’s Jay, Sandhill Cranes with growing young, Wilson’s Phalarope, Eared (Black-necked) Grebe, Red-naped Sapsucker, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Cordilleran Flycatcher, Mountain Bluebird, Clark’s Nutcracker, Barrow’s Goldeneye, American Dipper, Western Tanager, Lazuli Bunting, Ospreys almost daily…. There is a long and impressive birdlist! As impressive as the birds themselves are the sheer numbers; we may see many tens of thousand Eared Grebe, Wilson’s Phalarope and other shorebirds, particularly at the end of the holiday as we return to Salt Lake City.

We explore the geyser basins, where 25% of the world’s major geysers are clustered in a scenic 2-mile long valley.We take a boardwalk trail through the basin, watching Old Faithful (the most famous) and other geysers including perhaps Riverside, which arches over the Firehole River when in eruption, or Grand, which jets to almost 200 ft. high.Other geological highlights include the Lamar and Hayden Valleys, the dramatic Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, and a great birding raft trip on the Snake River. We also visit the 10,000-foot mountain pass that crosses the great Beartooth Plateau to see some of North America’s finest scenery.

Our journey begins and ends in Salt Lake City, where the Great Salt Lake creates wetlands of worldwide importance critical for migrating shorebirds. We navigate a circle route up to Yellowstone via Jackson spending several nights in the spectacular Grand Teton National Park en route. On the way back we venture west to Red Rock Lakes and Gray’s Lake National Wildlife Refuges, and in all we visit four western states, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana, each with their own character. A tremendous safari of the wildlife of the American west!

ITINERARY

DAY 1 Mon 28 July Salt Lake City, Utah
Flying into Salt Lake City is a great experience, as we pass over many of the high peaks of the Rocky Mountains and arrive to a wide, fertile valley framed by mountains on both sides. We meet Peg, and drive north to a quiet small town adjacent to our morning birding adventure. Rest from your travels, and awake to some fantastic scenery and birding! Accommodation at the La Quinta Motel, Layton (D)

DAY 2 Tues 29 July Antelope Island State Park / Bear River National Wildlife Refuge
Large shallow lakes fill a valley surrounded by mountains, and we start our birding at the spectacular Antelope Island causeway, birding at a leisurely pace on a road that bisects the Great Salt Lake. We should see tens of thousands of Wilson’s Phalarope and Eared (Black-necked) Grebe (over a half-million have been recorded at one time), along with resident Black-necked Stilt and American Avocet, Marbled Godwit and Long-billed Dowitcher. This is shorebird heaven, a vast inland sea rich with brine shrimp; an excellent place for resident species to breed, and for migrants already returning from the Arctic to refuel. August sees peak migration through the Salt Lake wildlife refuges, and Peregrine hunt the large flocks. On nearby Antelope Island we look for Chukar Partridge.

We have lunch and a short break at our hotel, then drive north to expansive freshwater marshes formed by the emptying of the Bear River into the Great Salt Lake. Concentrations of waders and waterfowl at this refuge can exceed the imagination. We may also find secretive Virginia Rail and possibly Short-eared Owl.

Driving along the back roads of the refuge, with mountain vistas all around, we look for White-faced Ibis as well as American White Pelican, California and Franklin’s Gulls, Caspian Tern, and a variety of herons, egrets, American Avocet and Black-necked Stilt. We may also see Sharp-shinned Hawk, Belted Kingfisher, Common Nighthawk, Common Yellowthroat, Yellow-headed Blackbird, and both Western and Clark’s Grebes. After a full day we return to our accommodation in Layton (B, L, and D).

DAY 3 Weds 30 July
Today we head towards the Grand Teton National Park. We travel a scenic route through Logan and Montpelier with a chance to bird at Bear Lake National Wildlife Refuge, with its mix of open water, freshwater marsh and grassland habitats.

Continuing north we follow the Snake River through Afton and on into Jackson, driving through the striking Hoback Canyon. Just outside this classic western town, we walk a short boardwalk trail through a marsh of the National Elk Refuge, where Yellow-headed Blackbird and Marsh Wren scold. Northern (Hen) Harrier can be seen here too.

Trumpeter Swan may have cygnets this time of year, and with luck we may find Canvasback, Redhead, Green-winged Teal and other ducks. Just beyond the refuge we get our first long view of the Grand Teton Mountains, perhaps the most spectacular range in the Rockies, rising abruptly from the valley floor, towering 5000 feet or more over the landscape, displaying their jagged crestline. Our lodgings are in view of Jackson Lake and this incredible backdrop of mountains. Settle in, listen for the call of Canada Geese and perhaps, with luck, that of a Great Grey Owl! Accommodation at Colter Bay Village, Grand Teton National Park (B,L, D).

DAYS 4 and 5 Thurs 31 July, Fri 1 Aug Grand Teton National Park
We have two full days to explore the Grand Teton National Park, considered to be amongst the top National Parks in the US for watching birds – perhaps in part for its background scenery! Here we search for Ruffed and Blue Grouse, American Three-toed Woodpecker, beautiful Western Tanager, Black-headed Grosbeak and a host of western wood warblers. Just outside our lodgings, tall conifer trees attract Olive-sided Flycatcher, Gray Jay, Cassin’s Finch and Red Crossbill. A short walk along the lakeshore often reveals MacGillivray’s Warbler, Western Warbling Vireo, or Osprey over the waters. Atop Signal Mountain we have a 360-degree view of magnificent mountains and a good chance of finding Green-tailed Towhee in the sagebrush, and along the conifer forest edge, Blue Grouse. One evening we take a scenic raft trip on the Snake River, where we hope to encounter American Beaver, Moose and nesting Bald Eagle. We also venture into historic Jackson Hole, known for its fine restaurants and shops, nightly rodeo and western flair. Dinner is at your leisure tonight, so if you prefer to relax and eat at our hotel, you can stroll down to the lakeshore for sunset, perhaps in the company of Cinnamon Teal. Alternatively, we will organise dinner at an interesting restaurant in the town for those who wish. Accommodation at Colter Bay Village, Grand Teton National Park (B,L, both days, D first night).

DAY 6 Sat 2 Aug Grand Teton / Yellowstone National Park
This morning we walk a short way looking for MacGillivray’s, Yellow-rumped and Orange-crowned Warblers and Common Yellowthroat in the willows, and in the adjacent forest Hammond’s and Dusky Flycatchers, Mountain Bluebird, Mountain Chickadee and Ruby-crowned Kinglet.

We then drive into the heart of Yellowstone, entering through the South Entrance. An area burned in the great fires of 1988 shows regrowth of Lodgepole Pine, and is a good habitat to search for woodpeckers including Common Flicker, Hairy, and Northern Three-toed.Belted Kingfisher frequents the river, and in one area tall mixed conifer forest is especially good for Red Crossbill, Pine Siskin and possibly Pine Grosbeak. Our destination is stunning Yellowstone Lake, where we should find Western and Clark’s Grebes, Barrow’s and Common Goldeneye, Bald Eagle, Osprey and more. Our accommodations are in cabins adjacent to Lake Hotel, where we have dinner with a view of the lake in a particularly lovely, historic dining room. Accommodation at Lake Hotel, Yellowstone National Park (B, L, D).

DAY 7 Sun 3 Aug Lake / Hayden Valley / Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
A special mammal day begins as we leave early to watch for Grizzly Bear and possible Gray Wolf activity in the Hayden Valley area. Some years a pack of wolves dens here and could be visible from along the roadside. We can find both species of bear here, and on a trip of this length have every chance of seeing them. The Bison rut is an extraordinary spectacle; males roar like elephants, and test their strength by pushing, shoving and sparring with each other. Bison herds with calves often create “road blocks” here, much to viewers’ delight as they dust bathe sending huge clouds of dust into the air. With herds of between 300 and 1000 animals, this is spectacular. If the weather is warm, the entire herd may head to the river to wade, cool off, or cross to other feeding areas.

After breakfast at Canyon, we see the thundering waters of the Yellowstone River’s Upper and Lower Falls, which are a highlight for many. White-throated Swift and Violet-green Swallow often feed in the colourful deep canyon. Driving through Hayden Valley, we may see Coyote, Northern Harrier, Ferruginous Hawk, many Elk, and possibly sought-after Harlequin Duck, American White Pelican and Common Merganser at LeHardy Rapids. En route back to our hotel, we check out Fishing Bridge for Bald Eagle and Osprey at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake, and several ponds for Canvasback and other diving ducks. We take a break with lunch at midday, and meet in the mid-afternoon to drive west along the lakeshore and up to a viewpoint at Lake Butte. This is a good area for raptors; we may find Red-tailed or Swainson’s Hawks as well as Bald Eagle. Common Loon (Great Northern Diver) and Canvasback inhabit Mary’s Bay, and in a more recent burn area to the east we search for Black-backed and American Three-toed Woodpecker. We return to another delightful dinner and night at the Lake Hotel, Yellowstone National Park (B, L, D).

DAY 8 Mon 4 Aug Old Faithful: Upper Geyser Basin / Fountain Paint Pots / Lamar Valley / Cooke City
Today we explore the loop drive that takes us to many of Yellowstone’s thermal basins. Stunning scenery surrounds us, as from Yellowstone Lake to Craig Pass we repeatedly cross the Continental Divide. We walk boardwalk trails at West Thumb Geyser Basin, and the Upper Geyser Basin of Old Faithful, which holds 25% of the world’s major geysers in a relatively small area. Learn more about the park geology and the differences between geysers, fumaroles, mudpots and colourful hot springs. We check times posted for the eruption of ‘Old Faithful’, and spend half a day in the basin, hopefully witnessing at least two Old Faithful eruptions. Other geysers are lovely as well, as are hot springs, which are every colour of the rainbow!Wildlife includes Killdeer feeding on brine flies, Yellow-bellied Marmot, Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel, and, in the stream, Spotted Sandpiper and American Dipper.

After a picnic lunch, we continue on to Midway Geyser Basin, Grand Prismatic Spring, and the Fountain Paint Pots. En route we pass by Nez Perce Creek, where some of the first Gray Wolves reintroduced to the park were released. We should see large herds of American Bison with their calves, and possibly American Elk, Mule Deer or Coyote.

We follow the Gibbon River north towards Norris Geyser Basin, then up and over Dunraven Pass before heading into the Lamar Valley. Dunraven is a good area to look for Prairie Falcon, Common Raven and Northern Goshawk. Later we settle into accommodation in the gateway town of Cooke City and enjoy a group dinner tonight at a favourite local restaurant. Accommodation at the Alpine Hotel, Cooke City (B,L,D).

DAY 9 Tues 5 Aug Lamar Valley, Yellowstone
We have a full day to explore the Lamar Valley and scenic Tower Falls. We hope to observe Mountain Goat, Mule Deer, American Elk, Bighorn Sheep, Pronghorn and American Bison, which all have young at this time of year, and all are wary of possible predators. We may find Gray Wolf activity here, as several of the packs are found in or near this valley. Enjoy some sightseeing around midday, when the animals are less active. With luck we may find the Gray Wolf’s little brother Coyote hunting, travelling, and possibly feeding young. In the afternoon we explore a small mountain town, where several residents put out hummingbird feeders – we expect Rufous and Broad-tailed Hummingbird here. Several excellent restaurants are just outside your door, and dinner tonight is at your leisure. Accommodation at the Alpine Motel, Cooke City, MT (B,L)

DAY 10 Wed 6 Aug Beartooth Plateau / Evening Wildlife Drive
Today we venture up to the magnificent high country of the Beartooth Plateau, just outside Cooke City. This extraordinary drive is one the most scenic in North America, and a wonderful way to access the tundra without a long, arduous climb. If we can tear our eyes away from the stunning views of both the Beartooth and Absaroka Mountain ranges, we’re likely to see alpine birds such as Black- and Gray-crowned Rosy Finches, American Pipit, Horned Lark, Merlin, Northern Goshawk, and more. Clark’s Nutcrackers, Yellow-bellied Marmot and a herd of Rocky Mountain Goats frequent the rest stop at Rock Creek. As there are a number of good restaurants in the area, tonight’s dinner is again at your leisure. Those who wish to eat early can go back out into the Lamar Valley at dusk, when wildlife is most active. Accommodation at the Alpine Motel, Cooke City, MT (B,L).

DAY 11 Thurs 7 Aug Yellowstone’s West Side / Henry’s Fork of the Snake River
Today we travel to the west side of Yellowstone, passing through the Lamar Valley and on to Mammoth Hot Springs. We stop to watch for American Dipper near beautiful Tower Falls, and to see if Peregrine Falcon chicks have fledged from a regularly-used nest. This is a good area to watch for Black Bear with growing cubs. Red-naped Sapsucker, Brown Creeper, Red-breasted Nuthatch and Cordilleran Flycatcher are often found in this area. As we drive towards Mammoth Hot Springs, the lowest elevation site in the park, we watch for Mountain Bluebird, Townsend’s Solitaire, and the beautiful Lazuli Bunting. Enjoy a picnic lunch near Norris Geyser Basin and a chance to see some of its thermal features, then we follow the Gibbon River to its junction with the Firehole, where it becomes the Madison – one of the Three Forks of the great Missouri River. This is a lush canyon, often filled with herds of American Elk and Bison, all with young, lounging in the summer sun. Great Blue Heron sometimes fish the stream; with luck we’ll see Cinnamon Teal, Sandhill Crane and Tree Swallows. Our accommodation tonight is a treat – perched right on the shore of the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, where we can watch Osprey, Bald Eagle and Caspian Terns from the deck! Accommodation at Angler Lodge, Island Park, MT (B,L,D).

DAY 12 Fri 8 Aug Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge
We spend today at one of the most pristine valleys remaining in all the Rockies, home to the remote and beautiful Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. Here a series of rivers link large shallow lakes, providing habitat for Franklin’s Gulls, Long-billed Curlew, White-faced Ibis and other species. Sandhill Cranes are common – their loud calls rivalling only that of the Trumpeter Swan, the signature species of the refuge.

In Aspen groves, and along the edges of conifer woodland we will listen and look for an excellent variety of birds. Moose seem particularly fond of the Aspen groves, as do Cedar Waxwing, Western Tanager and other songbirds. In wet areas near the lakeshore we hope to find the tiny Calliope Hummingbird. A system of roads allows us access to the vast area of the refuge, and we will enjoy a picnic lunch near one of the lakes. Dinner is at your leisure tonight, as we may offer the option to go out later to listen for Common Nighthawk and to search for Short-eared Owl. Accommodation at Angler Lodge, Island Park, Montana (B,L,D).

DAY 13 Sat 9 Aug Harriman State Park / Gray’s Lake NWR
In the early morning, we visit nearby Harriman State Park along the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River in Idaho. Enjoy the magic of dawn, and a host of birds such as Western, Clark’s and Red-necked Grebes as well as a variety of waterfowl, possibly including American Black, Forster’s and Common Terns. We return for a delicious breakfast, and then drive to Gray’s Lake National Wildlife Refuge, located in a remote valley of South-eastern Idaho. The wilderness quality of the refuge is lovely, and productive wetlands and grasslands encourage good populations of Sandhill Crane. This area is also important to rare Trumpeter Swans. In the late afternoon we head south, for a final day in the Salt Lake Valley. Accommodation at Pocatello, Idaho (B,L,D).

DAY 14 Sun 10 Aug Bear River Refuge / Local Salt Lake Birding Hotspots
This morning we return to visit Bear River Refuge to see what birds have arrived during our absence. One day is simply not enough at this great location; we are back by popular demand! Networking with local biologists, we’ll make every effort to pick up species not previously seen and to enjoy Black-crowned Night-Heron, Snowy Egret, Long-billed Curlew, and possibly Snowy Plover. Birds from both the Central and Pacific Flyways use this refuge, so we never know just what we’ll see. The second week of August is the peak of wader migration here, with up to an estimated 70,000 birds on the refuge! If time allows, we’ll stop at a few other birding hotspots. We arrive at our hotel in the afternoon, before enjoying a festive final dinner at a local western steakhouse, we will have much to celebrate! Accommodation at La Quinta, Layton (B,L,D).

DAY 15 Mon 11 Aug Departure from Salt Lake City
We hope to enjoy some easy birding from the causeway at Antelope Island before returning the hotel for departure. (B)

Leaders Peg Abbott and Kevin Shaw
Peg Abbott is an experienced and capable leader with an easy manner and very friendly approach. Peg has worked in Yellowstone since 1980, and lived there for 22 years. She has been involved in the wolf reintroduction project since its inception, and has also undertaken research on Grizzly Bears, Clark’s Nutcracker, Black Rosy Finches, and Rocky Mountain Elk. Heatherlea welcome her as Leader to share her incredible expertise and enthusiasm in this wonderful part of the world.

Kevin Shaw is the owner of Heatherlea, and leader on many popular Overseas Adventures holidays. Kevin is very much looking forward to this tremendous holiday to see the wildlife of two of the most beautiful national parks in North America, and all the wildlife that abounds within them!

      

 

Tour Cost and Travel Arrangements COST OF THE JOURNEY:  $2895.00 from Salt Lake City, UT. More information coming soon!   TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS:  More information to come! Photo Credits: American Dipper, Carol Rivchun; Trumpeter Swan, www.trumpeterswansociety.org; Burrowing Owl, Hairy Woodpecker, Harlequin Duck and Sandhill Cranes, Tony Beck - www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; all other photos, Peg Abbott.

 

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