The Nature of Southern Costa Rica
January 21-31, 2009

Few places in the world can rival Costa Rica’s tremendous ecological diversity, so easily accessible in a small geographic area. Over one-quarter of the country has been designated as a national park, wildlife refuge, biological reserve, or other type of protected area. And with good reason: the country boasts 850 species of birds, 208 types of mammals, 50,000 species of insects (including thousands of species of moths and butterflies), and 2,000 examples of orchids.

Peg has made nearly annual trips to Costa Rica since 1990 on a variety of itineraries; she has selected the best destinations and lodgings in southern Costa Rica for this journey. It’s one of our all-time favorite trips! Karl Schmitt and Patrick Dome of the Casa de San Pedro join Peg as hosts for this grand adventure, along with an excellent Costa Rican naturalist, Willy Alfaro, who will accompany us on the entire trip as we traverse the southern portion of this intriguing land.

The emphasis will be on natural history – including incredible birding -- and on enjoying ourselves. The itinerary includes a rich variety of landscapes – montane, mid-elevation, and lowland rainforest -- each with outstanding opportunities to see the local flora and fauna. We plan to spend several days at each location to get to know them in detail. We also visit a coffee farm, an outstanding botanical garden that specializes in tropical flora and, whenever possible, local markets. Willy will share with you the customs of the Costa Rican people, and encourage you to sample local foods and experience the exceptional hospitality of our Costa Rican hosts. A real highlight is a visit to the farm of a famous ornithological writer, Dr. Alexander Skutch.

 

ITINERARY

Wed., Jan. 21 Arrival in San Jose
Travel to San Jose, Costa Rica, where our Costa Rican guide, Willy Alfaro, will meet you at the airport for transfer to our hotel. This beautiful capital city is located in the central highlands with panoramic views of mountains and some truly lovely gardens to wander through. You may wish to arrive early to explore the city – past travelers have particularly enjoyed the Gold Museum.
Accommodations at Le Bergerac Hotel, San Jose (D)
www.bergerachotel.com/hotel.htm

Thurs., Jan. 22 San Jose / Mirador Quetzales / Trogon Lodge
After a delightful breakfast, we drive into San Jose’s city center to visit the National Theatre and one of the city’s fine museums. We then drive south on the Pan American Highway towards the Talamanca Mountains, the backbone of southern Costa Rica. From here, it’s a beautiful drive up into the mountains, where we stop at a family run cloud-forest reserve, Mirador Quetzales. Here we enjoy lunch, and a chance to walk lush forest trails in search of Costa Rica’s most famous and elegant bird, the Resplendent Quetzal.

Our destination today, just 51 miles from San Jose but in a totally different realm, is the Trogon Lodge, which sits at a cool 7,000 feet above sea level in an isolated and rather idyllic valley near the town of San Gerardo de Dota. Shortly before we reach San Gerardo, we pass over the Cerro de la Muerte (Mountain of Death). This 11,000-foot peak was named for early explorers who, traveling on foot, died of hunger, exposure, or storms while crossing the mountain. Although we may encounter some rain and fog as we climb, we soon rise above the clouds to a realm of flower-filled fields, hillside farms, and fantastic views. We’ll certainly want to make a few stops for photographs and to see what’s in bloom.

The Trogon Lodge, once a family farm, boasts beautiful grounds traversed by a clear river. After settling in to our accommodations, we take some time to walk the lodge’s nature trails, learning about the flora and fauna of the tropical cloud forest. With luck, we’ll spot the Resplendent Quetzal, the holy bird of the Mayans – and with good reason! Enjoy home-style cooking tonight at the lodge’s restaurant.
Accommodations at the Trogon Lodge, San Gerardo de Dota (B,L,D)
www.grupomawamba.com/trogonlodge/index.html

Fri., Jan 23 Trogon Lodge / Rio Savegre
Enjoy birding on the grounds of the hotel or a leisurely morning, and then a delightful breakfast. Afterwards, our guides accompany us on a walk along the clear mountain stream known as the Rio Savegre. Bird watching here is a treat, with so many colorful species: Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher, Collared Redstart, Emerald Toucanet and Flame colored Tanager, to mention a few. We have the full day to explore this isolated and beautiful valley, where we hope to find several pair of Resplendent Quetzal feeding on Wild Avocado trees. If some want a more rigorous hike up the valley’s ridgeline, we’ll feature that in the afternoon, and optional horseback riding can also be arranged. Meals at the lodge include a number of locally grown fruits and vegetables – the whole experience here is marvelous!
Accommodations at the Trogon Lodge (B,L,D)

Sat., Jan. 24 Trogon Lodge / Macizo Cerro de la Muerte National Park
Today we begin our exploration of the Macizo Cerro de la Muerte National Park, newly created in the highlands of the Talamanca range in January of 2006. This reserve protects over 200,000 acres in 13 units -- Costa Rica’s largest protected area. The Resplendent Quetzal is found here year round, as well as an incredibly diverse array of flora and fauna. On trails that wind past rivers and lakes, we look for Collared Trogons, Emerald Toucanets, Crowned Wren Thrushes, Large-footed Finches, and Sooty Robins, as well as endemic species such as the Silky Flycatcher, Emerald Hummingbird, Cerise-throated Hummingbird, and Peg-billed Finch.

Montane oak forest dominates the area, including magnificent oaks such as the Wild Brazilleto, Winter’s Bark Tree, and Cipresillo. We take a stab at identifying them, and then simply admire the hundreds of species of bromeliads, lichens, mosses, and ferns, and the multitude of orchids and colorful flowers. A rushing stream runs through the valley, and we walk alongside it looking for American Dipper. Locals raise fruit on the hillsides, and farm trout in small ponds; enjoy meals at the lodge with a host of homegrown foods.
Accommodations at the Trogon Lodge (B,L,D)

Sun. Jan. 25 Talamanca Mtns. / Skutch Farm / Wilson Botanical Gardens
Today we continue south, climbing high to cross the Talamanca Mountains, backbone of the southern part of the country. Much of the route is along the Continental Divide. While the drive takes much of the day, the scenery throughout is exceptional. Vegetation at the highest point is dwarfed due to elevation, winds and seasonal cold weather. Enjoy a local coffee shop where artisanal crafts and delicious fresh coffee are served, while a host of colorful birds come in to feed as well!

Just outside of San Isidro, we visit the former farm of Alexander Skutch, a famous author on nature in the tropics. While Dr. Skutch and his wife have recently passed away, the farm has been dedicated as a private reserve in perpetuity. Here we enjoy our picnic lunch and take a short walk before heading further south to our accommodations for the next two nights at the renowned Wilson Botanical Gardens.

We arrive with time to settle in before dinner. Each room has its own porch overlooking the rainforest. Enjoy a wonderful meal of fresh local foods served family style at the research station. You are encouraged to mingle with the students, scientists, and other guests during our stay. Accommodations are designed with sunlit spaces, hardwood floors, and bamboo furniture in a relaxed atmosphere. Our tourist fees help support the research and conservation work of the station.
Accommodations at the Wilson Botanical Gardens (B,L,D)
http://www.crbgtours.com/wilsonbginfo.html

Mon., Jan. 26 Wilson Botanical Gardens / Las Cruces Biological Station
Wake to the wonderful dawn chorus of birds singing at Wilson Botanical Gardens, located close to the Panama border outside the mountain town of San Vito. Today we immerse ourselves in the incredible beauty and diversity of mid-elevation rainforest and gardens that are a naturalist’s dream. Founded in 1962, the Wilson Botanical Gardens are framed by the high peaks of La Amistad National Park (part of an international biosphere reserve shared with neighboring Panama). In a cool, lush mountain setting, the gardens host tropical and montane plants from around the world, and birds and wildlife are attracted to the colorful blossoms and fruits.

Impressed by the ecological diversity of this valley, the Organization of Tropical Studies, a consortium of universities from both Costa Rica and the United States, bought the property to establish a scientific research center, Las Cruces Biological Station. Twenty-two acres exhibit numerous orchids, palms, heliconias, bamboos, and more. Twenty-four species of hummingbirds have been seen on the grounds and the nearby San Joaquin Marsh, as well as 350 species of birds, including the brightly colored Fiery-billed Aracari and the delightfully tame Blue-crowned Mot-mot. Coatimundi, intriguing relatives of the raccoon, are often found on the trails.
Accommodations at the Wilson Botanical Gardens (B,L,D)

Tues., Jan. 27 Coffee Farm in Coto Brus / San Vito / Golfito / Dominical
After breakfast and a final walk at Wilson Botanical Gardens, we visit a local coffee farm in the Coto Brus Valley to learn more about bird-friendly shade grown coffee production. We then stop in the town of San Vito, where Italian immigrants settled in the 1950s. The town is perched on the ridge of a mountain, and we’ll stop here to let you look around. Enjoy lunch, and afterwards, a sample of the local ice cream that comes in tropical flavors.

We then drive to Golfito, a tropical town on a lovely bay, where we stop for a coffee and time to explore a bit. Mangroves are abundant here, and we watch for herons, egrets, and possibly Woodstorks. We then head north along an incredibly scenic coast, reaching our fun (eclectic!) lodgings at Dominical in the late afternoon.
Accommodations at Cuna del Angel Lodge, Dominical (B,L,D)
http://www.cunadelangel.com/index.php

Wed., Jan. 28 Hatillo Mangrove Swamp Kayak Excursion / Free Afternoon
Mangrove Swamps are one of the richest natural environments in the world. The Mangrove tree is the only plant that thrives in salt water. On our kayak excursion, you’ll experience a great variety of birds including Bare-throated Tiger Herons, Little Blue Herons, Brown Pelicans, Royal Terns and mammals including White-faced Capuchin Monkeys, two species of sloths, two species of raccoons and White-nosed Coati. Some of the reptiles are Green Iguanas, Jesus Christ Lizards (which walk on water), and Boa Constrictors. There are six species of crabs which form the base of the food chain.

The Hatillo Mangrove Swamp is situated next to Garil Beach. Our local guide will give us safety instructions and will explain the grand significance of this rich environment. The three hour paddle is an easy one as we meander through canals discovering the beauty and variety of fauna of this important estuary.
Accommodations at Cuna del Angel Lodge (B,L,D)

Thurs., Jan. 29 Hacienda Baru National Wildlife Refuge / Free Afternoon
Today we explore trails in the secondary forests and plantations of Hacienda Baru. This 815 acre property has been in the forefront of conservation in Costa Rica, and today we explore some of its network of trails. Watch for leaf-cutting ants and, with any luck, the red and black type of Poison Dart Frog. As these extensive agricultural lands return to native forest, naturalists have recorded an increase of bird and mammal diversity with every passing year. The bird list stands at over 470 species, with a colorful array of honeycreepers, tanagers, toucans and others on our list of hopeful sightings today. Collared Peccaries are quite common, attracting Pumas and even Jaguars on occasion. Enjoy lunch at La Casona, the former Hacienda home, before returning to our hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free to relax and enjoy!

Please note: if there is an interest among the group in snorkeling, we can arrange this as an optional ALL DAY tour to Cano Island. The island is about 90 minutes by small boat from the coast, so this involves some travel and a very full day, but for avid snorkelers it may be the perfect activity for your final day. Please indicate your interest when signing up for the tour.
Accommodations at Cuna del Angel Lodge (B,L,D)

Fri. Jan. 30 Dominical / Return to San Jose
This morning we leave the beach and drive back to the main highway over the Talamanca Mountains towards San Jose. We stop at the beautiful cathedral in Cartago for a break along the way.

Reaching San Jose later in the afternoon, we’ll have time to make an optional shopping trip to markets with excellent selections of local crafts and artwork. We settle in again at Le Bergerac Hotel where we share our trip experiences during a final dinner.
Accommodations at Le Bergerac Hotel, San Jose (B,L,D)

Sat. Jan. 31 Departures
All good times must come to an end. This morning you can enjoy breakfast and time on the lovely grounds of the hotel before the transfer to the airport for return flights to the United States. Please remember you must be at the airport about 3 hours ahead of your flight; remember that when you choose your booking time! There will be a group transfer to meet flights from 10:00 am onward; prior to that please plan on taking a taxi (additional cost) that we can arrange for you.

Cost of the Journey Cost of the journey, $3790.00 from San Jose, Costa Rica, is based on double occupancy and includes: airport transfers, all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, professional guide services, local guides, local park and reserve entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. It does not include roundtrip airfare to or from San Jose, or items of a personal nature such as: laundry, telephone, drinks from the bar, or gratuities for porterage or personal services. With fewer than eight participants, a small group surcharge (typically $100-300 per participant) will apply. Single supplement is $525.00. Travel Arrangements Plan to arrive in San Jose on Jan. 21, ideally between 2 and 5 p.m. if you wish to join the welcome dinner. If you arrive later, we can arrange the airport pickup and a snack for you at the hotel, or you may eat on the plane. Those arriving at the airport by 5 p.m. can join us for a welcome dinner at the hotel. If your flight arrives after 6:00 p.m. plan on eating dinner on the plane, or we can hold a late meal for you at the hotel. You may want to arrive a day or two early (at your own cost) to take in sights of the city. We suggest you plan departures for after 10:00 a.m. on Jan. 31st, though earlier or later flights can be accommodated. Photo Credits: Passion Flower, Willy Alfero; Rufous Motmot, Clear-winged Butterfly, Swallow-tailed Kite, Blackheaded Trogon, Northern Jacana, Blue Gray Tanager, Tony Beck - www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; Quetzal, Hank Golet; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

 

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