Galapagos
Islands & Ecuador
Aboard
the First Class, spacious yacht - M/Y San Jose
Jan. 25 - Feb. 6, 2009, with extension Jan. 21-26, 2009
Join
Greg Smith and local Galapagos guides as we venture to this treasured
World Heritage Site – the volcanic archipelago of Ecuador’s
Galapagos Islands. We have carefully selected and chartered the modern,
more spacious M/Y San Jose yacht to provide an intimate voyage designed
with natural history and photographic interests in mind.
The
itinerary for this year’s trip is one of our best to date, for
in addition to sampling some of our favorite islands, we’ve
booked ample time to explore the remote western islands of Isabela
and Fernandina in detail. Take in the remarkable beauty and diversity
of the islands away from crowds and among endemic species such as
Galapagos Penguins and the very local Flightless Cormorant. Isabela,
the largest island of the archipelago, is 80 miles long and though
it is remarkably beautiful it is not one of the most visited islands
in the chain, accessible only to faster boats or those with longer
itineraries.
In
the Galapagos, wildlife is truly extraordinary and remarkably tame.
Many species are found nowhere else in the world. Don’t be surprised
if you have to step carefully over a nesting Blue-footed Booby, or
wait for a young Galapagos Sea Lion to uncurl from resting on the
daypack you left on the beach.
Seabirds
are abundant on the outer islands and you’ll have a chance to
observe and photograph birds in various stages of courting, nesting,
feeding, caring for young, and in flight. We should see three species
of Boobies (Red, Blue-footed and Masked), the beautiful and nocturnal
Swallow-tailed Gull, Magnificent and Great Frigatebirds, Waved Albatross
and Red-billed Tropicbirds.
Land
birds are also plentiful and include Dark-billed Cuckoos, Large-billed
Flycatchers, and the richly-patterned Galapagos Doves. Sorting out
many of the thirteen species of Darwin’s Finches provides a
challenge, and among familiar birds such as Yellow Warblers and Vermilion
Flycatchers you’ll notice slight variations. Several species
of mockingbirds are very bold when seeking fresh water. We also search
for Galapagos Flamingoes, Galapagos Hawks and the Galapagos form of
the Short-eared Owl.
Other
creatures will also captivate your interest. The intense color of
Sally Lightfoot Crabs contrasts dramatically with the dark lava rock.
Marine Iguanas are plentiful and vary in color patterns between islands.
Land Iguanas are rare and shy, while the huge land tortoises, which
give the islands their name, are found in the highlands. Almost every
day we can snorkel in quiet coves amidst active and colorful fish,
possibly seeing dolphins and sea turtles as well.
So
much is said of Galapagos wildlife that other parts of the experience
often go un-described. Volcanic geology is fascinating and unobstructed
-- from the texture of lava to patterns of spatter cones and stunning
moonscape-like views found on younger islands. Using small boats,
we explore the mangrove lagoons where sea turtles bask and feed. On
some islands, prickly pear cacti grow tall like trees. Over 500 species
of plants occur on the Galapagos, including some 180 endemics.
The
Galapagos Islands have been protected since 1834 and in 1986 their
pristine marine environment gained added protection. Responsible tourism
is a key factor in promising continued protection – our itinerary
is carefully designed with that in mind. After our 7 night voyage,
we stay on for an additional night in a local hotel on Santa Cruz
Island. From here we visit the highlands, and the renowned Charles
Darwin Research Station.
Don’t
miss this opportunity to visit one of the world’s top wildlife
destinations! Our journey begins and ends in Quito, Ecuador, where
we visit the colorful market at Otavalo and a lake in the Andes before
our next-day flight to the Galapagos. If time allows, we strongly
encourage you to join our pre-trip adventure to Ecuador’s Amazonia
region, featuring a four night stay at Napo Wildlife Center. This
is our pick for the best rainforest lodge experience anywhere!
ITINERARY
Sun.,
Jan. 25 Arrival in Quito
Arrive in Quito, Ecuador, where you are greeted at the airport for
a transfer to the Hotel Sebastian, a delightful hotel with shops and
restaurants (and yes, internet cafes) in easy walking distance. Step
out on your balcony to look down at the busy city. Several of you
will be eating on the plane this evening; those arriving in Quito
early can gather for dinner at our hotel if they wish.
Mon.,
Jan. 26 Otavalo Market / Quito
We know you’ll enjoy the fascinating market at Otavalo. About
two hours north through the city, the market in its mountain setting
is ablaze with color. Brightly colored sisal ropes lay in piles like
twisting rainbows. People load goats and sheep atop buses; aromas
from food vendors’ stalls fill the air. In the handicraft section,
brightly-colored hammocks and fabrics drape the stalls and hand-knit
sweaters abound. After the market, enjoy lunch at a local hacienda
and some nearby birding at a picturesque mountain lake. Our Ecuadorian
guide interprets the geography and culture throughout the day. We
return to Quito for dinner, a briefing for our voyage and some time
to pack and get organized for Galapagos the following day! (B,L,D)
Tues.,
Jan. 27 Flight to Galapagos / Baltra / Circumnavigate Daphne Major
We depart early for our flight to the Galapagos Islands, about a two-hour
trip as the Galapagos sit some 600 miles off the coast. As we approach,
we see the islands below; arid brown jewels rimmed with turquoise
reefs in quiet water coves. We land on Baltra, the main airport for
Galapagos. Here we pay our Visitor Fees, they inspect our carry-on
baggage for foreign plants or seeds that might be a threat, and we
walk out through an open-air patio to meet our local guides. Often
we see Galapagos Doves and our first Darwin’s Finches feeding
on crumbs by the small café. From the airport, it’s just
a short drive to the port where we have time to get situated as the
boat refuels and takes on water for the journey. In the picturesque
harbor we should see Galapagos Sea Lion, Blue-footed Boobies, and
often Brown Noddies, Brown Pelicans and other species.
As
the boat leaves the harbor to start our grand journey, we circumnavigate
the striking island of Daphne Major, where for over twenty years intensive
studies of Darwin’s Finches have been conducted by scientists
Peter and Rosemary Grant of Princeton University. This oval-shaped
volcanic island rises abruptly from the sea, and has nesting seabirds
as well as finches. Enjoy dinner aboard our ship, and as this is the
dry season in Galapagos, evenings are great to sit out on deck with
fellow travelers to enjoy conversation and the stars. (B,L,D)
Wed.,
Jan.28 Tower (Genovesa): Darwin Bay / El Barranco (Prince Phillip’s
Steps)
Today we anchor in the calm waters of Darwin Bay within the caldera
of intriguing 14 square-mile Tower Island. Being close to deep ocean
waters, Tower is an ideal nesting area for Red-footed Boobies (both
light and dark color phases), Great Frigatebirds, Masked Boobies,
Swallow-tailed Gulls and several species of storm petrel. You will
be very close to these animals; those with cameras will be particularly
intrigued. We may also encounter Lava Gulls, Yellow-crowned Night-herons,
Galapagos Doves, four species of Darwin’s Finches and possibly
Short-eared Owls. Tower has a remote, wild and unspoiled character
and lies one degree north of the Equator. Vegetation is sparse here;
dry Palo Santo forest occurs with mangroves at the ocean edge. We
will have land excursions in the morning and afternoon, with mid-day
reserved for relaxation or snorkeling; on previous voyages, we have
even seen Hammerhead Sharks here. The whole crew aboard ship is helpful
– practice your Spanish so you can converse as they drive our
small boats (dinghies), serve us our delicious dinners, and watch
for us to enjoy every moment of our voyage. (B,L,D)
Thurs.,
Jan. 29 Santa Cruz: Cerro Dragon / Sombrero China
This morning we stop at the northwest coast of Santa Cruz Island to
visit Cerro Dragon, a dry location with a fascinating shallow saline
lagoon where we hope to find Greater Flamingoes, Yellow-billed Pintails,
migrant shorebirds and elegant Black-necked Stilts. Walking an uphill
trail through ghostly Palo Santo trees, we get great views of the
bay and surrounding islands. We hope to find colorful Land Iguanas
and to get good looks at the feeding Common Cactus Finch.
In
the afternoon we visit a small island that from a distance looks just
like a Chinese hat. Situated off the southeastern tip of James (Santiago)
Island, cold currents create an upwelling affect, and fish are numerous.
Here, the snorkeling is fantastic, and we might see our first Galapagos
Penguins. White-tipped Reef Sharks, Spotted Eagle Rays and dozens
of colorful fish await those who wish to snorkel. This island has
some spectacular lavas radiating out from its cone. In the later afternoon
we head west towards the remote and spectacular islands of the West.
We watch for whales (possibly Humpback, Sperm, Sei, or Minke) dolphin
and Orcas en route. (B,L,D)
Fri.,
Jan. 30 Punta Vicente Roca Snorkeling / Fernandina: Punta Espinoza
Punta Vicente Roca, a rock islet off the northwest corner of Isabela
Island, is a site known for excellent snorkeling. From our boat mooring
we admire views of Volcán Ecuador, one of five visible high
volcanic peaks of Isabela. This is the premier location in the islands
to spot large marine mammals such as whales and Orca, for the cold
waters of the west to east moving Cromwell Current bring the area
nutrient-rich waters. Enjoy a zodiac cruise along Punta Vicente Roca,
where we should see one or more species of rays, Green Sea Turtles
near the water surface, Marine Iguanas feeding on algae or sunning
on dark volcanic rock, and possibly Galapagos Penguins. One year we
witnessed a pod of Orca surrounding a huge, very odd-shaped Ocean
Sunfish, which was almost the same size as its predators. After the
zodiac cruise, grab your snorkeling gear if you wish to float among
a grand array of fish, and possibly Green Sea Turtles.
During lunch, we reposition to the nearby
western outlying island of Fernandina. This is the youngest of the
islands – in 1988, 1991, 1995 and 2005 visitors witnessed spectacular
volcanic eruptions here. Due to ongoing volcanic activity, this large
volcanic shield island is sparsely vegetated, despite being quite
high in elevation. Fernandina is by far the most pristine of the islands
– no exotic animal has been introduced here to date. The beautiful
mangrove-lined cove at Punta Espinosa is home to Galapagos Penguins,
which are likely to swim around our boat like ducks. On the rocks,
striking red and yellow colored Sally Lightfoot Crabs walk between
the drabber Marine Iguana. Indeed, Marine Iguanas are numerous; watch
them spitting salt as you lay on your belly for a close up shot. Galapagos
Sea Lions often appear at our landing, while Galapagos Hawks call
and signal each other in flight overhead. A unique animal we view
here is the Flightless Cormorant, which nests on Fernandina. It is
rare throughout the archipelago except for this location. The visit
to Fernandina is one of the highlights of our voyage – celebrate
with some night-sky viewing from the deck after dinner.
Sat.,
Jan 31 Isabela: Tagus Cove / Urbina Bay
This morning we wake in the harbor of Tagus Cove, our next Visitor
Site to explore. Named for the British naval vessel that moored here
in 1814, Tagus Cove was used historically as an anchorage for pirates
and whalers. Anchored on the west side of Isabela, the largest island
of the Galapagos archipelago, we have grand views of Wolf and Cerro
Azul Volcanoes which reach over 5500 ft. high. Stretch your legs as
we walk up a trail with stairs built to protect the island from erosion
as groups visit Darwin Lake, an inland crater lagoon. Geologic spatter
cones are quite prominent here, and views from the highpoint are impressive.
We also take a zodiac ride along the cliffs of Tagus Cove to get a
different perspective and to see the Brown Noddy at close range. In
the rich waters, Blue-footed Boobies feed like bullets, going into
plunging dives in pursuit of prey.
By
afternoon we are moored on the southeast side of Isabela under the
shadow of Alcedo Volcano. We disembark on a striking white sand beach.
Here, our walk is aimed to let us view the fascinating geology , looking
up to lava flows that radiate around the volcanic slope, now decorated
by dry-season leafless Palo Santo trees. Urbina Bay was uplifted over
35 ft. from the sea floor during an eruption of Volcan Alcedo in 1954.
This is the best example of this type of uplift phenomena observed
throughout the islands. Indeed, observations of such uplift were recorded
by Charles Darwin during his historic visit, and proved to be quite
influential in development of his thinking.
Also
exciting is the possible presence of Giant Tortoise at Urbina Bay,
as this is an important egg-laying site for the subpopulation on Volcan
Alcedo. Young tortoises hatch between December and April. (B,L,D)
Sun.,
Feb. 1 Isabela: Bahia Elizabeth / Punta Moreno
Exploring further down Isabela`s west shore, we visit the sheltered
waters and mangrove-lined coves of Elizabeth Bay. This is a great
site for observing and photographing birds and marine life from our
zodiacs. Here, and on small islets at the mouth of the bay, we find
nesting Galapagos Penguins, Flightless Cormorants, Galapagos Sea Lions
in abundance, several Darwin’s Finches and their agile predator,
the Galapagos Hawk. With luck we may also see the beautiful Golden
Ray, along with Spotted Eagle or Manta Rays in the calm, shallow waters.
In the afternoon we continue on to Punta Moreno, known for its colorful,
artistic lava formations. We explore a bit by zodiac, then land to
walk a path that winds through the jagged black rock. Migrant shorebirds
like to feed in tide pools formed by the lava, as do both the Great
Blue and more local Lava Herons. Brown Pelicans can be nesting in
the polished leaves of Red Mangroves growing around the pools. It’s
a magical time amid life of many forms; watch your feet so you don’t
step on Marine Iguanas and very young Galapagos Sea Lions! (B,L,D)
Mon.,
Feb. 2 Turtle Rearing Center / Villamil
The island of Isabela is home to more wild tortoises than all the
other islands, and the city of Villamil, on the southern tip of Isabela,
is home to an important Giant Tortoise Rearing Center, similar to
the one at the Darwin Station on Santa Cruz Island. Several different
sub-species of tortoise remain isolated on Isabela’s different
volcanic peaks, unable to cross lava beds that link the peaks today.
Wild tortoises occur in the calderas of Alcedo, Wolf, Cerro Azul,
Darwin and Sierra Negra volcanoes. They move up and down in elevation
according to the season and presence of fresh water, in which they
like to wallow.
Giant
Tortoises are the signature species of Galapagos. The very name Galapagos
is derived from the Spanish word meaning saddle, a description of
the shape of several of the subspecies’ large carapaces. Tortoises
live to be 150 years old, and grow very large in size, weighing some
500 lbs. Pirates, whalers and early island residents all depended
on tortoises for food, often exploiting and in some cases eliminating
populations. Four of fourteen subspecies are extinct, and populations
remaining are at risk from loss of habitat, and competition for food
and habitat degradation by exotic animals. Learn more about conserving
the Giant Tortoise and about their fascinating life history with local
guides today.
Enjoy time after our station visit to walk the white sand beach and
the village of Villamil and to view a saline lagoon with many Greater
Flamingos. This port city is home to just over 2000 people and it
is a popular stop for private yachts making their way to other Pacific
Islands. Fishing is still the main industry here; tourism is increasing
in importance. There are a few shops here, a Post Office and clinic.
As
we leave we will motor to a small group of islets offshore called
Las Tintoreras. Here we hope to see a good number of White-tipped
Reef Sharks which rest in a prominent lava canal. There are also good
numbers of sea lions and Marine Iguanas, and it is one of the most
beautiful Visitor Sites in Galapagos, a fitting end to our grand exploration
of Isabela. Retrieved from "Bachas Beach is our afternoon destination,
and our focus here is on finding beautiful Galapagos Flamingos, as
well as enjoying swimming and time to relax. We should find abundant
Marine Iguana, and perhaps the tracks of nesting sea turtles. Return
for a farewell dinner, hosted by our captain and crew. (B,L,D)
Tues.,
Feb. 3 North Seymour Island / Santa Cruz Island: Bachas Beach
From our trail on North Seymour this morning, we get excellent views
of Daphne Major and Daphne Minor islands, a landmark from our first
day of the voyage and home to many Magnificent Frigatebirds, nesting
Blue-footed Boobies, Swallow-tailed Gulls and very bold Galapagos
Mockingbirds. Currently a project of the Darwin Research Station is
underway to reintroduce the endemic form of Land Iguana once found
here. This is one of the most popular visitor sites in the Galapagos,
so we won’t have the harbor to ourselves, but close-up views
of many species and the chance to see Land Iguanas make the visit
worthwhile. Geology of this island, created by uplift rather than
the accumulation of lava, is quite different from many of the islands
we visit.
From
here, we bid adieu to our delightful yacht and transfer by bus to
the airport where we meet a local bus to travel over the highlands
to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.
Wed.,
Feb. 4 Santa Cruz Island: Highlands and Charles Darwin Research Station
Santa Cruz Island is the home of the Charles Darwin Research Station
and headquarters for Galapagos National Park. A surprise for many
visitors, Puerto Ayora has a population of over 10,000 people, so
there are plenty of shops to tempt you along the charming main street
during our walk to the Darwin Station. It still has the feel of a
small rural town, and the chance to overnight there is a great addition
this year to our Galapagos journey.
At the research station, established
in 1961, we find several varieties of the Giant Tortoise at the captive
breeding facility. Larger trees and shrubs surround the tortoise pens,
attracting several species of Darwin’s Finches. There are exhibits
about current research and conservation measures here which you’ll
find to be very informative.
On
our drive between the airport on Baltra to our accommodations on Santa
Cruz we visit the highlands (3000-5000 ft. zone), traveling through
distinct zones of vegetation. Enjoy a walk near “Los Gemalos”
or Twin Craters, where we may find probing Woodpecker Finches and
bright-colored Vermilion Flycatchers. This is the realm of the guara,
or seasonal mist, which cloaks the forest, producing lush vegetation.
We hope to stop at a local farm to walk trails where Giant Tortoises
can be seen in the wild, grazing on the lush pastures. The very rare
Galapagos Rail is sometimes spotted here. Our accommodations in Puerto
Ayora are close to the picturesque harbor and in the late afternoon,
you are free to enjoy a walk around town, visit an internet café,
or just relax. (B,L,D)
Thurs., Feb. 5 Puerto Ayora / Baltra / Quito
This morning we travel back across the highlands to return to the
airport and our flight to Quito. Depending on when we return we can
sample a bit of the city, and then settle in at our hotel before enjoying
our farewell dinner. Please note, if you are on a schedule and need
to depart for the U.S. tonight (many flights leave between 10:00PM
and midnight) this can be arranged. (B,LD)
Fri., Feb. 6 Quito and departures
You may depart Quito at a time convenient for you.
Pre-tour Extension: Napo Wildlife Center; Ecuador’s Amazonia Region
Jan. 21-26, 2009
Wed., Jan. 21 Arrivals in Quito
Arrive in Quito, Ecuador today at the time you select. You will be met at the airport (even late flights) and taken to our hotel. As many may eat dinner on the airplane, we have no formal plans for dinner for those arriving earlier in the day, but you may wish to rendezvous with others at the restaurant in our hotel at 7:00 PM.
Accommodations at the Hotel Sebastian, Quito
Thurs., Jan. 22-Sun., Jan. 25 Napo Wildlife Center
An incredible experience awaits us at the now renowned Napo Wildlife Center, an 82-acre private reserve run by an indigenous community within the Yasuni National Park in the Amazonas Region. Over a decade ago the community of Añangu decided to support tourism over logging development. To date the project is a great success and a favorite of some of the world’s leading tropical biologists. Each day of our stay there benefits the local community and helps to preserve both the park as a whole and the reserve in particular.
We take an early plane ride over the Andes to the town of Coca on the Napo River. Have your camera ready: if it’s clear you can get stunning shots from the plane of the vast forest on the east side of this rugged cordillera. Our guides will be waiting for us in Coca to lead us to our covered, motorized canoe for a 2 ½ - 3-hour journey down-river. We have lunch en route as we begin to absorb the thrill of this remote area and its abundant wildlife. Parrots, ibis, herons, and possibly macaws fly overhead. We may encounter all five species of kingfisher, and possibly the secretive Zig-Zag Heron, Hoatzin or Agami Heron in lush vegetation. We’ll also watch for Red Howler Monkeys.
No motorized boats are allowed on the pristine lake outside our lodge, so we will transfer to small, hand-paddled dugout canoes for the final leg of the trip to our lodgings. Giant Otter may bark at us as we cross the lake to our new and spacious cabins at the state-of-the-art, environmentally friendly lodge. This lakefront setting is spectacular, and many species of wildlife is truly just outside your door.
One of our field trips, taken in dugout canoes, is to a riverside parrot lick. No where is there a more accessible parrot lick, a place where several species of parrots, parakeets, and macaws may gather at the same time to take in kaolin and other minerals needed to neutralize the toxins of the often unripe nuts and seeds they eat. The sights and sounds of this gathering are absolutely incredible – worth the whole trip!
During our four days in the wildlife center we will also have time to hike local trails, venture out in small boats, and discover a dazzling array of colorful birds – the lodge lists 562 species in the vicinity! We also look for mammals, reptiles, fish, and butterflies, and take a stab at learning some of the showier plants that comprise this intricate forest. Return to delicious meals and a fully stocked bar each evening before venturing off to find some of the local secretive mammals, owls, or pootoos!
Accommodations at Napo Wildlife Center, all nights. (B,L,D)
Mon., Jan. 26 Flight over the Andes / Quito
We travel back to Coca on the same series of dugout canoe rides to catch a plane back over the Andes. After landing in Quito, we transfer to our comfortable hotel, where you’ll have time to rest up or do some shopping and exploring before meeting our group for the main tour. Enjoy dinner together at one of our favorite restaurants, and plan on a short introductory meeting to help you plan for our visit to the Galapagos the following day.
COST
OF THE JOURNEY
Tour cost: $4270.00, from Quito, is based on double occupancy
and includes: all nights accommodations (11N: 3N in Quito,
1N Mainland Galapagos Puerto Ayora and 7N aboard the San
Jose), round-trip flight from Quito to the Galapagos, all
meals, group airport transfers, professional guide services
of expert Galapagos guides and Greg Smith of Naturalist
Journeys, transportation within Ecuador and Galapagos, pre-departure
information and services, and miscellaneous program expenses.
This cost is based on a minimum of 14 persons, as our boat
is a charter. If there are fewer than 14, a small group
surcharge (typically $300.00 - $500.00) may apply.
The
registration fee, payable to Naturalist Journeys, is $500.00
per person and registration forms are available by request,
or printable on the web at www.naturalistjourneys.com
The
tour cost does not include items of a personal nature such
as porterage, laundry, telephone charges, optional activities
or beverages from the bar. It also does not include the
Galapagos National Park fee (currently $100.00, tax deductible),
or your departure tax from Ecuador (currently $32.00). You
should also plan on a gratuity for local guides and the
ship crew, which is left to the discretion of each participant
(guidelines will be given with your tour packet). Single
supplement is available for the land based accommodations
only –all rooms on the ship are double occupancy.
Single supplement for the three nights in Quito and the
one night in Puerto Ayora is $225.00.
Cost
of the Extension is $1495.00, with $100 discount if booked
WITH Galapagos journey.
Travel
Arrangements
Most major airlines service Quito, Ecuador. This is often a good
destination to use miles for if you are saving them. You may arrive anytime
on your arrival date (Jan. 21 for the extension, Jan. 25 for the Main Tour).
A representative of our host company, Neblina Forest, will meet you at the
airport and transfer you to the Hotel Sebastian. You may depart as you wish
on Feb. 6th. Keep in mind you should be at the airport at least 2 1/2 hours
AHEAD of your departure time when you consider those early flights.
Photo Credits:
Male Frigatebird, Waved Albatross, Flamingo, Group in boat and boat with
Frigatebird, Bud Ferguson;
all other photos by Peg Abbott; map courtesy of www.gct.org/map.html.
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About
the yacht, San Jose
OVERVIEW
The
San José is a very spacious yacht. Each of the eight double
bed cabins has a private bathrooms, and were build from port to
starboard giving the guests incredible space. All the cabins are
exterior and a have a great view of the ocean.
The
San José also offers you lots of open space areas, two
sun deck areas with comfortable chairs, beach tables and benches,
where you can enjoy the navigations, the sun, the landscape of
the islands, and with a little bit of luck dolphins or whales.
Check
out the M/Y
San Jose
online
SPECIFICATIONS
Type:
Motor Yacht
L.O.A.: 111.5 feet / 34 meters
Beam: 26.25 feet / 8 meters
Engines: Two engines Detroit 12V 71
Speed: 8.5 knots
Accommodations: 8 double cabins with lower berths each with private
toilet and shower
Capacity:
16 Passengers
Crew: 7 plus 1 naturalist guide or 2 diving guides .
DECK
PLAN
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