Glacier & Waterton Lakes National Parks
July 11-20, 2008
Pre-trip extension to Ninepipes and Pablo National Wildlife Refuges and the National Bison Range July 8-11.

Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks span some of the most spectacular scenery in the Northern Rockies. On this journey, we explore the highlights of this ecosystem known as “the Crown of the Continent.” The Blackfeet people refer to Glacier as the “Backbone of the World;” indeed, its rock foundation ranks among the oldest on Earth. Its spectacular geologic layers and their movements have allowed scientists to unlock the mystery of much of earth’s ancient history. Water, ice, and wind have sculpted these mountains into a fantastic array of cirques, horns, ridges, and dramatic U-shaped valleys, while also painting them in beautiful deep colors.

Glacier remains a remarkably untrammeled wilderness. The park has only 100 miles of roads but over 700 miles of hiking trails. We’ve carefully chosen a great set of hikes to highlight the wonderful wildflowers and abundant wildlife of the area. July is peak flowering season in the mountains, and we should find meadows awash with myriad wildflowers and bright stalks of Glacier’s signature plant – Beargrass. In the high country we scan for Mountain Goat and Bighorn Sheep, while in lush forests we look and listen for a variety of northern birds such as Gray Jay, Clark’s Nutcracker, Townsend’s Warbler, Lazuli Bunting, Boreal Chickadee and more. We also learn about the region’s rich and varied cultural history.

Join us to explore the quintessential beauty of this wild place: rugged peaks, glacier-carved valleys, deep mountain lakes, and cold, clear rivers – often with cascading waterfalls. Joining Peg Abbott of Naturalist Journeys are local guides from the organization Glacier Wilderness Guides, who share expertise on wildflowers, birds, geology, history, and more. We tour the park by trail, road, and boat, offering a variety of moderate to leisurely hikes to match your interests and abilities. We have chosen four historic park accommodations throughout the journey so you can appreciate the flavor of these grand old lodges. While these lodgings add a bit to our typical tour cost, we think it is very worthwhile.

ITINERARY

Fri. July 11 Arrival in Kalispell / Trail of the Cedars
Plan to meet your guides at the airport by 1:00 PM. We begin our adventure in Glacier by visiting a cedar-hemlock forest reminiscent of the lush Pacific Northwest on the Trail of the Cedars. Then settle into our accommodations near the scenic shore of Lake McDonald, where Lodgepole Pine forests blanket the shores of a deep, clear mountain lake. Relax by the giant stone hearth in the spectacular log lobby of this historic hotel; it was built in 1913 for guests arriving by boat after crossing the Going to the Sun Highway by stage from the East. Enjoy a welcome dinner after a short meeting where we present an overview of the week ahead.
Accommodations at the Lake McDonald Lodge, Glacier National Park, MT. (D)

Sat. July 12 Going to the Sun Highway / Highline Trail, Glacier National Park
Today we get an early start to travel up the Going to the Sun Highway to our trailhead. Our hike today is all in the high country along the Highline Trail, an ideal trail that provides excellent vistas with little climbing.

The Going to the Sun Highway, a National Historic Landmark, is both an engineering feat and one of the most scenic roads in North America. Every spring, U.S. Park Service road crews labor to remove over 80 feet of snow from the road, a job that often entails re-surveying to locate the road under the snow while facing the threat of dangerous avalanches. You will be amazed by the scenery and the winding route this road takes, hugging the sides of the mountains as it passes by rugged peaks, waterfalls and lush alpine meadows.

Our trail travels the Garden Wall, a well-watered rock layer that holds a lush array of wildflowers. Along the way we look for Mountain Goat, Hoary Marmot, Columbian Ground Squirrel, and Bighorn Sheep, as well as alpine birds such as the White-tailed Ptarmigan. We take the time to study the adaptations of the wind-stunted krummholtz vegetation, identify alpine flowers, and learn about geologic features that represent millions of years of earth’s history. It’s a lovely all-day hike with time at Haystack Butte to soak in the scenery and watch wildlife often found there. Views of cirques, arêtes, and Bird Woman Falls reveal a tumultuous glacial history. Strong hikers may wish to continue on to the historic Granite Park Chalet.

Watch for Golden Eagle as we meet back at Logan Pass, where we peruse the exhibits at the park’s visitor’s center. Then it’s back to Lake McDonald, where you can enjoy dinner at the lodge.
Accommodations at the Lake McDonald Lodge, Glacier National Park. (L,D)

Sun. July 13 Going to the Sun Highway / Hidden Lake
Today we further explore the subalpine and alpine realms of the 52-mile Going to The Sun Highway, truly one of the world’s most scenic highways. We approach the summit of Logan Pass from the west side of the Continental Divide. From 1921 to 1933, crews worked under extremely dangerous conditions to build a “road out of rock” that crossed the continental divide and unified the eastern and western portions of the park.

We hike another beautiful alpine trail today, crossing snowfields to reach an overview of Hidden Lake. This area is one often used by Mountain Goat, which have frisky young at this time of year. Scenery is of a grand scale; at our feet are diminutive alpine flowers. With luck we should find Horned Lark, American Pipit and Gray-crowned Rosy Finch.

On the west side of the pass, we travel alongside beautiful St. Mary’s Lake, shining blue and clear in its impressive, U-shaped glacial valley. By evening we arrive at one of the park’s most scenic areas, Many Glacier. Flowers should be spectacular at this time in July. En route we also pass by 9, 080 ft. Chief Mountain, a geologic oddity that is a key feature of the Lewis Overthrust Fault. The mountain’s isolated location and striking form made it an important landmark for Native Americans and early settlers.

We stay two nights at the historic Many Glacier Hotel, built in 1914 by the Great Northern Railway, and designed to attract tourists to the American West. The hotel is undergoing a five-year, much-needed renovation to restore its former elegance, but its setting remains incomparable. Built in classic Swiss chalet style, the lodge is perched within jagged, soaring peaks that earned the area the moniker “America’s Little Switzerland.”
Accommodations at the Many Glacier Hotel, Many Glacier, MT. (L,D)

Mon. July 14 Many Glacier, Glacier National Park
In the early morning and evening, we have a good chance, at a distance, to observe Grizzly Bears and other large mammals on the surrounding mountain slopes. This is a lush area, with waterfalls, extensive meadows, rich forests, and shrub-filled avalanche chutes. Bulbs and berries attract both Black Bears and Grizzlies, while rocky cliffs offer cover for Mountain Goat and Bighorn Sheep. Moose prefer the aquatic vegetation and willow-bottoms, while Elk delight in a mix of meadow and forest. Marmot and Pika chirp from rock outcrops, and a variety of birds come in for the often-abundant cone crop.

Depending on the energies and interest of the group today we may choose a leisurely route to Grinnell Lake, taking a boat across the lakes; those who wish can continue on a more strenuous trail that climbs to a spectacular view of Grinnell Glacier. On both routes, wildflowers are abundant on the hillsides, and we walk through veritable gardens of Fireweed, Lupine, Mountain Hollyhock and Beargrass. MacGillivray’s Warblers sing from the shrubby thickets, and Winter Wren, Varied and Swainson’s Thrush and flocks of Golden-crowned Kinglet frequent groves of conifer trees.

We watch for wildlife as the sun goes down; enjoy a relaxing dinner at your leisure. Some may want to rent a canoe for an hour of paddling before or after dinner.
Accommodations at the Many Glacier Hotel, Many Glacier, MT. (L)

Tues. July 15 Many Glacier / Bull Lake / Waterton Lakes NP
Today from Many Glacier, enjoy a beautiful hike to Bull Lake. Passing through a chain of colorful meadows, mountain lakes, and beaver ponds, we are surrounded by mountain splendor all afternoon. This hike is one of our favorites, affording beautiful views of classic Grinnell Peak without serious elevation gain. Fox Sparrow, Lazuli Bunting and Wilson’s Warblers are often encountered in this area. Several ponds attract Canada Geese, Lesser Scaup and other waterfowl species.

Returning from our hike, we drive north to Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, Glacier’s sister park. We drive along the east side of Glacier, with spectacular scenery en route. In 1931, these two impressive parks agreed to become the world’s first International Peace Park as an everlasting symbol of the peace and friendship between two great countries. The parks are both World Biosphere Reserves and were jointly named as a World Heritage Site in 1995, highlighting the importance of this area to the entire world. Several lakes line the entrance road on which we may find Trumpeter Swan, Black Tern, numerous ducks and Common Loon.

After settling into our accommodations at the Prince of Wales Hotel, some may wish to take High Tea in the lobby, which offers outstanding views of the lake and surrounding high mountains. Or just enjoy a walk at your leisure on the grounds; keep an eye out for the resident nesting Western Tanager, Cedar Waxwing or with luck, Prairie Falcon. Tonight we dine together in the lodge’s elegant dining room.
Accommodations at the Prince of Wales Hotel, Waterton, Alberta, Canada. (L,D)

Wed. July 16 Waterton Lakes National Park / Hike to Kootenay Lakes
Enjoy a full day of hiking in a remote part of Glacier National Park, accessed by a scenic boat trip down the length of Alberta’s 203-square mile Waterton Lake. At the lake’s end we are back in the U.S., at Glacier’s remote Goat Haunt Ranger Station. Our trail to Kootenay Lakes traverses lush forest with breaks for great scenery and wildflowers. Best of all, it climbs only about 200 ft. in elevation. At the lake we look for nesting Trumpeter Swans – which should have their cygnets hatched by this time – as well as Moose that frequent the area. Moose often feed on the lake’s lush aquatic vegetation, making for some great photography opportunities as they lift their huge, antler-clad heads to chew! With luck we may also find female Moose with their calves. This is a good area to look for Red-naped Sapsucker, as we pass through several aging Quaking Aspen stands. Enjoy a picnic lunch and return by boat across dramatic Waterton Lake.

In the evening, some may want to explore the town of Waterton where you can choose from a variety of local restaurants, or relax with a simple meal in the bar or restaurant of our elegant hotel. Several homes in town have gardens with hummingbird feeders; with luck we may spot Broad-tailed, Calliope or Rufous Hummingbirds.
Accommodations at the Prince of Wales Hotel, Waterton. (L)

Thurs. July 17 Waterton Lakes National Park / East Glacier / St. Mary’s Falls
This morning we return to Glacier National Park, checking ponds and the winding river area as we leave Waterton Lake National Park for Barrow’s Goldeneye, Trumpeter Swan, Sandhill Crane, Osprey and Bald Eagle. In a recently burned forest area we look for Three-toed Woodpecker among the more common Hairy Woodpecker and Northern Flicker.

In the afternoon we enjoy a walk to Virginia Falls, and for those who wish, on to St. Mary’s Falls. This is a lovely walk through lush forests with abundant wildflowers. Here, deep forests afford us views of mixed flocks of warblers, kinglets, and chickadees. Noisy Steller’s Jays call from above, bright Western Tanagers call out their melodic repertoire and with luck we’ll watch the antics of a family of American Dipper near the falls. Dusky Grouse enjoy feeding on Whortleberry and other fruiting shrubs of the forest floor; with so much dead and down timber we have a fair chance of finding Pine Marten, which feed on the area’s abundant Red Squirrels.

East Glacier is a beautiful historic lodge, we enjoy dinner together in the historic dining room.
Accommodations at East Glacier Hotel, Glacier National Park (L,D)

Fri. July 18 East Glacier/ Two Medicine Valley
Today we spend the day hiking and exploring the natural history of Two Medicine Valley. This striking mountain valley was carved by an immense glacier that once spread like an apron onto the Great Plains. The area is rich in Native American history; its name derives from the annual sun dances once held by two Blackfeet tribes, the Bloods and the Piegans, in adjacent medicine lodges.

To explore this area in detail, we offer a mix of easy to moderate hikes, depending on the interests and abilities of the group. First we take a boat across Two Medicine Lake to reach our trailhead. Our destination is Upper Two Medicine Lake, a beautiful spot surrounded by sheer cliffs and high peaks, with the option of visiting Twin Falls en route. A picnic lunch is the perfect way to take a break while still soaking in the scenery! Mixed forests give us a chance to look for Dusky Flycatcher, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Townsend’s Solitaire, Hermit Thrush and Veery.

At the end of the day, relax on the porch of the lodge. You are free tonight to have dinner at the hotel or in one of several restaurants nearby in town. On many evenings, park rangers offer evening nature programs in the lobby of our lodge.
Accommodations at Glacier Park Lodge, East Glacier (L)

Sat. July 19 Goat Lick / Raft Trip Middle Fork Flathead River
We return to Glacier’s West side, crossing scenic Marias Pass on Highway 2, which follows the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. A highway stop gives us an excellent view of one of the world’s most famous geologic sites, the Lewis Overthrust Fault, which sets the stage for reviewing Glacier’s fascinating geologic history.

En route we stop to walk at Goat Lick, where minerals seeping in the exposed, clay-rich soil attract Mountain Goat and sometimes other mammals. Tall trees here attract flocks of Cedar Waxwing; Black-billed Magpie are common along the way.

End your trip to Montana’s Big Sky Country with gusto! We wrap up our adventure with a three-hour afternoon raft trip on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. Class II and III rapids make the run through scenic John Stevens Canyon a fun ‘and splashy’ adventure. Our final dinner is at a picnic; a festive evening to recount our adventures, and tally up our bird and mammals sightings!
Accommodations at the Rocky Mountain Lodge, Whitefish, MT. (L,D)

Sun. July 20 Kalispell / Departures
We return to the Kalispell airport for flights out at your convenience after 10:00 a.m. If several participants are leaving later in the day, we can depart in two shifts so some can enjoy free time around Lake McDonald before returning to Kalispell for flights home.

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Glacier: Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge, National Bison Range & More! Pre-trip Extension July 8-11, 2008
The scenic beauty of Montana is profound; wide-open, evocative landscapes create memorable backgrounds to our observations of a host of western bird and mammal species. Join us to explore several wildlife refuges and the National Bison Range between Kalispell and Missoula. This extension allows further exploration of Montana’s Big Sky Country and time in open grassland habitats with the dramatic Mission Mountains behind. A nice compliment to time spent in the mountains on our Glacier trip, guide Peg Abbott will help you find and enjoy the outstanding birds and wildlife of this region.

Tues., July 8 Arrival in Kalispell
Plan to arrive in Kalispell, Montana by 4:30 PM – we have set this time to accommodate afternoon flights into this small airport. After gathering our luggage, we drive about an hour and a half south past scenic Flathead Lake and the community of Polson, to accommodations near the wildlife refuges that we will visit in the days ahead. Enjoy a welcome dinner, and meet your guide and traveling companions.
Accommodations at Ninepipes Lodge (or equivalent), (D)

Wed., July 9 Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge
Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge is a well watered area of the Mission Valley. Part of the Flathead Indian Reservation, this 2000 acre refuge is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in cooperation with the State of Montana and the Kootenai and Salish Tribal Governments. Wetlands are remnant features of a glacial past; we search the extensive kettle ponds and pothole lakes that make this area so productive for wildlife. The refuge is just south of Ronan, Montana, with 5,000 acres for us to explore. July is a time for rearing young, and we should see good numbers of Black-necked Stilt, American Avocet, Sora and Virginia Rail with young. Ducks will be soon passing into their eclipse plumage; we should find Redhead, Northern Pintail, American Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Blue-winged Teal, Ruddy Duck and other species in good number. Raptors hunt the area so we are constantly alert for shorebirds and ducks to take to the sky – indication that a Peregrine or Prairie Falcon may be hunting the area. Bald Eagle and Osprey are also on patrol, busy finding food for their young. Elegant Red-necked and Western Grebes breed on open water and should have young, which may be riding on their backs. In addition to the water realm, we walk through several prairie shelterbelts, planted groves of trees, in search for Eastern Kingbird and other songbirds.
Accommodations at Ninepipes Lodge (or equivalent), (B,L,D)

Thurs., July 10 National Bison Range
Teddy Roosevelt established the National Bison Range in 1908 in an area of truly splendid scenery encompassing a portion of the broad Flathead Valley backed by the majestic Mission Mountains. Mule and White-tailed Deer, Elk, Bighorn Sheep, and Pronghorn also abound here as a mix of habitats make the refuge a varied and productive environment. We explore the range on several of the scenic loop drives, with a mid-day break to take in exhibits at the informative Visitor’s Center. Buffalo Prairie Drive gives us access to extensive grasslands where we may find Gray Partridge, nesting Mountain Bluebirds, and singing Western Meadowlark. With patience we should find Grasshopper Sparrow. Walking riparian habitats with stately cottonwood trees, we look for Western Tanager, Bullock’s Oriole, territorial Western Kingbirds and the jaunty Black-billed Magpie. With luck we may find a roosting owl; four species are regularly recorded here. In the afternoon we’ll drive the Red Sleep Mountain Scenic Drive, a winding gravel road through beautiful scenery, with opportunity to watch large herds of Bison, which at this time are just coming into their rut season. There will be lots of young calves to watch at play, mature bulls taking dust baths, and young bulls testing out their strength with each other. In groves of trees within extensive grassland habitat we look for Yellow-breasted Chat, Lazuli Bunting, MacGillivray’s and other warblers and Dusky Flycatcher. As we reach scattered stands of Douglas Fir and Ponderosa Pine, species change and we watch for Mountain Chickadee, Clark’s Nutcracker, possible Pygmy Nuthatch, and one of the West’s most beautiful woodpeckers – Lewis’ Woodpecker, named for the famed explorer. We may find Dusky (formerly Blue) Grouse females with young, and we’ll certainly take in the splendid view from Bitterroot Trail at our rest stop. One of the thrills of birding in the West is keeping an eye to the sky – along the route we watch for Golden Eagle, Northern Harrier, Rough-legged and Red-tailed Hawks. In addition to the wildlife refuge, we also visit a few key birding areas near the small town of Ravalli, where Pileated Woodpecker has been recorded. After a full day, we return to our accommodations, and dinner is at your leisure.
Accommodations at Ninepipes Lodge (or equivalent), (B,L)

Fri., July 11 Pablo National Wildlife Refuge / Polson / Return to Kalispell
On our way north to meet the main tour, we pass Pablo National Wildlife Refuge, and spend much of the morning exploring this large open lake. We also check several areas around Polson and Flathead Lake, choosing these based on reports of recent sightings. By 1:00 PM we return to the airport to meet up with travelers on our main Glacier journey.

Cost of the Journey Cost of the journey is $2995.00 from Kalispell, MT, based on double occupancy. This cost includes airport transfers, transportation during the journey, all accommodations, meals specified in the itinerary, professional guide services, park and other entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. It does not include: roundtrip airfare to and from Kalispell; items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone, or drinks from the bar; or gratuities for porterage or personal services. With fewer than 8 participants, a small-group surcharge (typically $100-300 per participant) will apply. Single supplement is $795.00. Cost of the pre-trip extension is $895.00 from Kalispell, MT; single supplement is $215.00. Travel Planning You are responsible for planning your arrival to and departure from Kalispell, MT. For the main tour, plan to arrive by 1 p.m. on July 11, and depart at your convenience on July 20. For those arriving for the extension, please plan to arrive July 8th by 4:00 pm. There is also AMTRAK train service to Kalispell, plan to arrive a day early if coming by train just in case of delayl. The main air carrier is Sky West, which partners with Delta, Northwest and United through several connecting cities. Photo Credits: All photos by Peg Abbott.

 

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