Guyana
With Narca Moore-Craig
April 1-11, 2009

 

Guyana is South America’s hidden gem, a rare country that still retains a large portion of its original tropical forest cover. Red Howler Monkeys and Blue-crowned Motmots often initiate the dawn chorus, as six of South America’s elusive wild cat species patrol the forest by-ways. Tributary streams are home to both Giant Otter and Neotropical River Otter, and above those streams dart flashing comets of color such as splendid Crimson Topaz hummingbirds and scintillant Green-tailed Jacamars. Morpho butterflies drift through the forest, flashing their dazzling blue wings. Guyana is also home to a distinctive assortment of birds from the odd cotinga family, from the brilliant Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock to wine-and-white Pompadour Cotingas and elfin Dusky Purpletufts.

The substrate here is the ancient granitic Guianan Shield, which, along with the Brazilian Shield to the south of the Amazon River, forms the primeval geologic heart of the continent. Tropical rainforest has been growing here for millions of years, slowly adapting to changing conditions as nutrients leached from the soils. Today the forest is a miracle of adaptation to an impoverished substrate. The ancient Guianan Shield is the primary source of blackwater rivers that feed the Amazon. Join us to explore forests that surround these fascinating, acidic rivers, stained dark with tannins. This NEW Naturalist Journeys exploration allows us passage into some of the least disturbed tropical forest on earth.

Human culture in Guyana is as varied and colorful as the forest cotingas. A former British colony, Guyana’s capital city Georgetown preserves quaint Victorian architecture, painted from a tropical palette. People are a mix of Amerindian, Black, Creole, East Indian, European, and Chinese ancestry. English is the official language. During our journey, we have the opportunity to visit a Macushi village, whose people are deeply committed to conserving their native forest and its wildlife.

Narca Moore-Craig leads this exciting neotropical adventure. At owner Peg Abbott’s request, she scouted the route two years ago.  She was so excited with the animal life and overall experience that she returned with family and friends for a more extended journey.  Narca’s breath of knowledge and caring style of guiding makes this one of our TOP PICKS for a journey in 2009!  

 

 

 

ITINERARY

Wed., April 1 Arrival in Guyana
Arrive today at Cheddi Jagan International Airport, on the outskirts of Georgetown, a charming colonial city known as the ‘garden city of the Caribbean’. Georgetown today is a modern capital city and the chief port of Guyana.  Along tropical, tree-lined streets it sports a fascinating mix of British, French and Dutch colonial architecture.

Upon arrival, we transfer to a lovely, boutique hotel with a swimming pool, where we can relax after our travels. Those arriving in time can join our guide, Narca Moore-Craig, for a welcome dinner.  Some flights may arrive after dinner, and if so we can arrange a transfer to meet them. You may also consider coming a day early to rest up and explore more of Georgetown.
Accommodations at Grand Coastal Inn. (D)

Thurs., April 2 Georgetown / Botanic Garden / Mahica River
We rise early to enjoy the nearby Botanic Garden at its freshest. Raucous parrots and colorful macaws greet the day as Wattled Jacanas tread the lotus and waterlilies on ponds. We search for the scarce Blood-colored Woodpecker, an inhabitant of the coastal plain of northern South America, found only in the Guianas. These extensive and beautiful gardens provide a colonial roost for Snail Kites, and we hope to catch our first glimpse of antshrikes and woodcreepers, two characteristic Neotropical bird families. As the day warms, spectacular Helicopis and longwing butterflies warm up as well.

After a mid-morning breakfast replete with tropical fruit, we drive along the coast to the Mahica River for a boat ride through mangroves and surrounding marshland. Specialties of this habitat include the strange Hoatzin (the only avian specialist to subsist on leaves!) and Rufous Crab-Hawks. If we are lucky, we may also spot some tiny Green-rumped Parrotlets as well as flashy orioles. A bold and curious Black-capped Donacobius may peek out at us from the dense riverside vegetation.

During the hottest part of the afternoon, we retreat to our hotel for a siesta or a swim, before our evening visit to the home of Roy Geddes, Guyana’s most famous Steel Pan player and maker. Discover how steel pan is made, and enjoy Roy’s mini museum and, especially, a concert, before having dinner in his garden.
Accommodations at the Grand Coastal Inn (B,L,D)

Fri., April 3 Kaieteur Waterfall / Iwokrama Field Station
This morning we fly out of Georgetown’s domestic airport (Ogle Airstrip). Our flight takes us over an almost-unbroken carpet of emerald forest, to the edge of the Guyanan tepuis, an ecoregion of isolated sandstone plateaus overlying the Guinean Shield. Here the Potaro River thunders in a sheer drop of 748 feet, forming Kaiteur Falls, almost five times the height of Niagara Falls. We land on an airstrip at this remote tepui to view the falls and explore the forest edge. With luck, we hope to find brilliant Guinean Cocks-of-the-Rocks at their lek. Orange-breasted Falcons nest nearby, and White-chinned and White-tipped Swifts swirl over the gorge. One of the outstanding sounds of the forest is the song of the Musician Wren, a resident species here. Along the path we may see tiny, carnivorous sundews, plants which feed on insects as an adaptation for living in mineral-poor soils.

We continue on our flight to land at Fair View Village, and then travel a short way by boat on the Essequibo River, arriving at Iwokrama Field Station in time for a late lunch. This internationally-known research station is situated in the midst of protected lowland tropical rainforest with spectacular biodiversity. A short list of birds we may find includes Black Nunbirds, Amazonian Antshrikes, Spotted Puffbirds, Green Aracaris, Guianan Red Cotingas, Bronzy Jacamars, Chestnut & Waved Woodpeckers, and Strong-billed Woodcreepers.  After a rest, and as the day cools, we hike trails near the field station, hoping for a glimpse of a Capuchinbird, another bizarre cotinga which is colored rusty orange and has a voice like a resonant chain-saw.

Our accommodations at the field station are in thatched cottages built of sustainable native hardwoods. Beds are draped in mosquito netting to keep out any overly-friendly bugs as we sleep. A central two-story lodge houses the station’s dining room, kitchen, library and office.
Accommodations at Iwokrama Field Station (B,L,D)

Sat., April 4 Turtle Mountain
At daybreak, and after an early breakfast, we set out by boat to the foot of Turtle Mountain. A good trail winds past forest-screened ponds where Green-and-rufous Kingfishers forage. The rare and elusive Agami Heron is possible to observe here. Keeping our birders pace, which hopefully will be interrupted by foraging flocks following columns of army ants, we steadily ascend about 900 feet to an excellent overlook, atop Turtle Mountain.

During the several days in which we explore the Iwokrama forest, a wealth of species is possible, including Black Spider Monkeys, Wedge-capped Capuchins, Green Aracaris, two toucans, White Bellbirds, and any of five species of eagles! Over 500 species of birds inhabit this forest known for its especially high density of parrots and cotingas. Although it’s impossible to predict just which of the forest’s fabled wildlife will cross our path during our days here, something will, and the possibilities are entrancing, from Spix’s Guans to Tiny Tyrant-Manakins.

We take a packed lunch along today, so that we can spend the full morning and early afternoon on Turtle Mountain. Then, as activity subsides, we retreat to our cottages to relax during the hottest hours and refresh ourselves with cool-water showers. This evening, after dinner and sunset, we return to the river for a night outing by boat, in search of Black and Spectacled Caiman, nightbirds such as Spectacled Owl or Blackish Nightjar, and other nocturnal denizens of the Essequibo. Seeing the rare Zigzag Heron is even possible!
Accommodations at Iwokrama Field Station (B,L,D)
www.iwokramacanopywalkway.com

Sun., April 5 Iwokrama Forest / Canopy Walkway
As toucans and macaws greet the new day, we enjoy breakfast, then begin the next stage of our journey, driving and walking a little-traveled road through the forest. The Iwokrama road is famous for guests being able to actually see its healthy population of Jaguars, and to find as well its spectacular birds like Spangled Cotinga, Pompadour Cotinga, Guianan Red-Cotinga, several macaws, Crimson Topaz, Gray-winged Trumpeter, and Marail Guan. Flowering shrubs along the roadside are magnets for brilliant tropical butterflies.

Mixed in with more typical lowland tropical rainforest is another habitat known as Mori Scrub, a low forest growing on white quartzite sand. Mori Scrub supports a unique assemblage of birds, including Black Manakins, Rufous-crowned Elaenias and Red-shouldered Tanagers. We explore this habitat, as well as the taller forest along the way.

Our next stop, also within the Iwokrama forest, is Atta Rainforest Lodge -  South America’s equivalent of an African tented camp. The lodge is a project of the Macushi community of Surama, and income from it helps to support the community’s efforts to preserve their forest wilderness. Staying there is a very special experience.

At Atta, an attractive, thatched lodge houses the kitchen, dining tables, sitting area, and bar. Nearby, a bathroom complex shelters four private rooms, each containing a sink, flush toilet, and cool-water shower. On either side of the bathroom compound is a hammock area, one for women and the other for men. Each hammock is sheathed in mosquito netting. If you haven’t yet learned the technique for comfortable overnighting in a hammock, we will help you settle in: you may be very pleasantly surprised! By staying at Atta, we are able to access the richest, wildest forest of the entire trip.

When we arrive, the staff at Atta will serve lunch. Relax for a while; then, as the afternoon cools, we enter the surrounding forest. A 20-minute walk along a very good trail will take us to Atta’s celebrated Canopy Walkway. The trail leads part way up a steep hillside, and from it we step onto a series of suspended walkways and decks, each anchored to a giant rainforest tree. This nearly-level system of walkways will carry us to vantage points up to 35 meters high, which overlook the surrounding canopy. From these decks we train our binoculars and scope on any wildlife we find. Among the 134 bird species recorded at the walkway are Painted Parakeet, Guinean Toucanet and Crimson Fruitcrow (a very rare bird), and we may spot Spider Monkeys or howlers. Weather permitting, we stay till darkness falls, in hopes of seeing the rare White-winged Potoo. Then, back at the lodge, our dinner awaits.
Accommodations at Atta Rainforest Lodge (B,L,D)

Mon., April 6 Iwokrama Canopy Walkway
Taking advantage of our time in this lush remote forest, we set out early to welcome the dawn from the canopy walkway. Short-tailed Nighthawks settle in for the day, changing guard as swifts take to the sky. White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans yodel, Barred Forest-Falcons bark, and Red-throated Caracaras do their considerable best to add to the general cacophony.

Atta’s forest is exceedingly rich, and we divide our time between the canopy walkway and the trails below, where we may find ant swarms with their attendant White-plumed and Rufous-fronted Antbirds. Black Currasows daintily pick their way through the forest, and even across the grounds of the lodge. We may startle a band of trumpeters along the trail, or be startled by the loud raps of huge Red-necked Woodpeckers. One prize we seek is the very local Blue-cheeked Parrot. Photographers will be happy to find Giant Owl butterflies which gather at fallen fruit on the forest floor. Paradise Jacamars and White-necked Puffbirds are most cooperative to watch as their ‘sit and wait’ predator strategy keeps them stationary just over our heads. Our sharp-eyed local guides are Macushi Indians, well-versed in the uses of forest plants and alert to the forest’s subtleties.
Accommodations at  Atta Rainforest Lodge (B,L,D)

Tues.,  April 7 Cock-of-the-rock Trail / Rupununi Savanna
On our last early morning at Atta we return to either the trails or the canopy walkway as forest inhabitants awaken, for a final immersion in this pristine rainforest realm. Then, after breakfast, we depart for the Rupununi Savanna, continuing south on the little-traveled Iwokrama road, with its high potential for interesting wildlife. Plumbeous Kites, Swallow-wings, and Guianan Puffbirds may observe our progress. En route, we venture along an easy 20-minute trail to an imposing jumble of massive rock, where Guinean Cocks-of-the-Rocks display on leks and nest, and where we hope to catch one or more at home.

The forest gives way to savanna with scattered trees, termite mounds, and Macushi villages. The Rupununi Savannah is to Guyana what the Gran Sabana is to Venezuela, an extensive area of grassland with termite mounds and scattered or riparian woodland.  A new assemblage of species awaits us here. Instead of forest hawks, we hope to find open country associated Black-collared and Savanna Hawks; Fork-tailed Flycatchers replace Long-tailed Tyrants; Nacunda Nighthawks fly at twilight in place of Short-tailed Nighthawks; Rufous-throated Sapphires outnumber the Black-eared Fairies.

Our destination today, and our base for the next three nights, is the very comfortable Rock View Lodge, near the northernmost settlement of Annai. Here we enjoy relaxing in the Rupununi's only swimming pool, in our porch hammocks, or under the shade of large mango trees. After lunch and time to enjoy to the lodge’s amenities, we offer an optional hike up a rougher trail than we’ve yet traversed, which offers views of the Pakaraima Mountains and the possibility of seeing colorful Finsch’s Euphonias or Yellow-billed Jacamars. An evening gathering by the swimming pool will be followed by dinner al fresco, under a huge mango tree. The menu at Rock View blends Creole, Guyanese and Brazilian cuisines, to fine effect.
Accommodations at Rock View Lodge (B,L,D)

Wed., April 8  Surama Village & savanna
After breakfast we drive a short distance to the Amerindian community of Surama, a dispersed village set in five square miles of savanna, surrounded by the densely forested Pakaraima Mountains. Here, the Macushi here still observe many of their ancestors’ traditional practices.

The road into Surama offers excellent birding, with possibilities ranging from seeing Pearl Kites and Bat Falcons to Racket-tailed Coquettes and elegant Paradise Jacamars. In the village, we learn about community conservation efforts and have lunch in their large dining room, with views over the savanna to the encircling mountains. Before returning to Rock View Lodge, we search shaded margins of a nearby shallow lake for a roosting Great Potoos.  Enjoy a relaxing evening in the comfort of Rock View Lodge.
Accommodations at Rock View Lodge (B,L,D)

Thurs., April 9 Surama village / Burro Burro River Trail
Today is devoted to a more in-depth exploration of the Surama area. We return to the village, and then set out along a good, level trail that leads towards the Burro Burro River. During sunny weather, butterflies can be spectacular, with electric-blue satyrs and clearwing ithomiids gliding past. Curious family groups of Cayenne Jays and noisy Little Chachalacas inhabit the forest patches, as do charming Golden-collared Woodpeckers and magnificent Red-fan Parrots. We hope to find cooperative antshrikes, woodcreepers, Black Nunbirds, and Golden-headed Manakins. Dining in the field with our packed lunch enables us to explore until afternoon, when we return to our comfortable lodge for some welcome relaxation before dinner.
Accommodations at Rock View Lodge (B,L,D)

Fri., April 10  Aranaputa / Flight to Georgetown / City tour
As this is our last morning in the savanna, early risers can enjoy optional birding around Rock View Lodge. After breakfast, we spend the morning visiting the village of Aranaputa, including the local school, where the children plan to entertain us with a short presentation. Lunch will be served by the community under a large mango tree.  We then go to a nearby airstrip for our flight back to Georgetown and the Grand Coastal Inn.

On our last afternoon we immerse ourselves in the sights, colors, aromas, and ambiance of Georgetown. The Dutch first laid out this colonial city along the bank of the Demerara River estuary. Most buildings date to the 18th and 19th centuries. Our city tour will include time at the famous Stabroek Market, with its daily flow of exotic fruits, handicrafts and other commerce. Walk the avenues with an experienced guide, well-versed in the city’s history, and accompanied by a vehicle to transport us between areas of interest. We visit St. George’s Cathedral, one of the world’s tallest free standing wooden buildings, consecrated in 1892.  As time permits, we may also visit the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, which explains Amerindian history and life style.  

Celebrate our great journey at tonight’s farewell dinner
Accommodations at Grand Coastal Inn (B,L,D)

Sat., April 11 Departures 
This morning you will be transferred to the international airport for the flight home. If your flight is very early, the hotel will pack a box breakfast for you.  (B)  

 

GUYANA EXTENSION

Fri., April 10 Rupununi River / Karanambu Ranch
This morning we will transfer by road to Ginep Landing and then travel slowly by boat on the Rupununi River to Karanambu Ranch. We will look for the many bird species, including majestic Jabirus nesting along the river.  We also look for Wood Storks, Bat Falcons, King Vultures, Channel-billed and Toco Toucans, Brown-throated Parakeets, White-necked Jacobins, Drab Water Tyrants and Ringed, Green, Amazon and Green-and-rufous Kingfishers. Karanambu is the home of Diane McTurk, widely known for her work rehabilitating orphaned Giant River Otters which we hope to see as well.  There is a good chance of spotting several species of primates too. Our bird watching here will be largely in woodland patches or gallery forest along the river where we hope to find such species as Spotted Puffbirds, Striped Woodcreepers, Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakins, Golden-spangled Piculets and lek-associated Capuchinbirds. 
Accommodations at Karanambu Ranch.  (B,L,D)
www.wilderness-explorers.com/karanambu.htm

Sat., April 11 Karanambu Ranch
Whilst out in the boat today, we hope to see beautiful Capped and agile Little Blue Herons, Great and Snowy Egrets, Purple Gallinules and Pied Lapwings.  When water levels are appropriate a wooded swamp near the ranch is the site of a surprisingly large colony of nocturnal Boat-billed Herons.  Black Caiman are numerous along the river. At any season the river and airstrip provide habitat for no fewer than eight species of nightjars.  We make several outings from the ranch, returning for meals and time to relax in hammocks on the shaded porch.  Learn more about Diane McTurk’s conservation efforts and work with the local community.
Accommodations at Karanambu Ranch.  (B,L,D)

Sun. April 12 Karanambu Ranch
We devote this entire day to exploring Karanambu and its varied habitats, traveling by boat to certain localities up and downstream, and by Land Rover to one or another forest patch. Grasslands host Double Striped Thick-knees, Bi-colored Wrens, and Bearded Tachuris.  Nearby forest patches host Ferruginous Pygmy Owls, Violaceous Trogons, Blue Ground-Doves, Plain-crowned Spinetails and bold and brazen Great Antshrikes. The river is home to Wood Storks, White faced and Black-bellied Whistling Doves, Stripe-backed Bitterns and Pied Lapwings.  As we move around we may see Least Grebes, South American Snipes, Rufous-throated Sapphires, Yellow Tyrannulets, Cliff Flycatchers and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters.  We take lunch with us today, and return to our lodgings by nightfall. 
Accommodations at Karanambu Ranch.  (B,L,D)

Mon., April 13 Savannahs / Giant Anteaters / Georgetown
This morning we travel out onto the savannah to look for Giant Anteaters.  After lunch we will take a flight to Georgetown.  This afternoon enjoy a guided city tour. Georgetown the chief port, capital and largest city of Guyana. It was chosen as a site for a fort to guard the early Dutch settlements of the Demerara River.  The city of Georgetown was designed largely by the Dutch and is laid out in a rectangular pattern with wide tree lined avenues and irrigation canals that crisscross the city. 

Most of the buildings in the city are wooden with unique architecture dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries.  For the most part the buildings have Demerara shutters and designed fretwork which trim eaves and windows.  Main Street Georgetown provides several excellent examples of old colonial homes, a prime example of which is the State House, built in 1852.  The State House is set in large gardens and is painted green and white and has hosted many visiting dignitaries.

The tour will include walking along the Avenues with an experienced guide who will give you the history, rumors and facts on Georgetown and its citizens.  St. George’s Cathedral is one of the world’s tallest free standing wooden buildings consecrated on 1892.  Other historic buildings along the major promenade include the Town Hall, a splendid example of Gothic architecture, and further along the Public Library and the Victoria Law Courts and St. Andrews Kirk.  St. Andrew’s is the oldest surviving structure of any church in Guyana. During the tour there is always the opportunity to purchase that unusual gift or unique Guyanese handicrafts, or for the daring the chance to delve into the gold and diamond market.   We return to the hotel, where you can pack and get organized for tomorrow’s travel and have a simple final meal at the hotel.
Accommodations at the Grand Coastal Inn.  (B, L,D)

Tues., April  14 Transfer to the airport for the flights home.  (B)  

 

 

Cost of the Journey Cost of the journey is $3590.00 from Georgetown, based on double occupancy. This cost includes all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, group airport transfers, professional guide services including local guides, park and program entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. Tour cost does not include: round-trip transportation from your home city to Georgetown, Guyana; optional activities or items of a personal nature such as laundry, porterage, telephone charges, maid gratuities, or beverages from the bar. Single supplement is $365.00. Cost of the extension is $995.00 if booked with main tour, or $1195.00 if booked solo. Single supplement for extension is $165.00. Group Size: Maximum of 14, minimum of 4. The tour price is based on 10 persons; with fewer than 10 a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. Travel Arrangements Plan to arrive in Georgetown on April 1, in time to touch base with Narca and be rested for tomorrow. You may wish to arrive a day or two early (at your own cost) to enjoy the city’s museums and sights. Most international flights go through Port of Spain in Trinidad, and it is also possible to add several days to your tour there if you wish.  A variety of airlines service Guyana; most flights route through Miami. Departure is at your leisure on April 11. Pace of the Tour Moderate, but adventurous, due to travel to remote locations, with potential heat and humidity. As in all tropical countries, we plan to rest during the hottest hours of most days. Participants should be able to walk on uneven terrain up to 3 miles. A flexible attitude and sense of enjoyment of adventure is always appreciated by the group. Part of the stay is at a biological field station with a remote field camp with shared bath facilities. We think its well worth it to explore some of the most fabulous tropical forests on the planet, and we balance that with some lovely hotels with nice amenities on either end. Photo credits Hoatzin and Zig Zag Heron, Tony Beck - to see more of his images, go to: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; photo of Narca Moore Craig, Alan Craig; all other images, NMC.

 

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