Guyana
With Narca Moore-Craig
November 15-24, 2010, with optional Karanambu Ranch extension November 23-26

Guide: Narca Moore-Craig

Recent Trip Report (N/A)

Recent Species List (N/A)

 

Guyana is South America’s hidden gem, a rare country that still retains a large portion of its original tropical forest cover. Red Howler Monkeys and Blue-crowned Motmots often initiate the dawn chorus, as six of South America’s elusive wild cat species patrol the forest by-ways. Tributary streams are home to both Giant Otter and Neotropical River Otter, and above those streams dart flashing comets of color such as splendid Crimson Topaz hummingbirds and scintillant Green-tailed Jacamars. Morpho butterflies drift through the forest, flashing their dazzling blue wings. Guyana is also home to a distinctive assortment of birds from the odd cotinga family, from the brilliant Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock to wine-and-white Pompadour Cotingas and elfin Dusky Purpletufts.

The substrate here is the ancient granitic Guianan Shield, which, along with the Brazilian Shield to the south of the Amazon River, forms the primeval geologic heart of the continent. Tropical rainforest has been growing here for millions of years, slowly adapting to changing conditions as nutrients leached from the soils. Today the forest is a miracle of adaptation to an impoverished substrate. The ancient Guianan Shield is the primary source of blackwater rivers that feed the Amazon. Join us to explore forests that surround these fascinating, acidic rivers, stained dark with tannins. This NEW Naturalist Journeys exploration allows us passage into some of the least disturbed tropical forest on earth.

Human culture in Guyana is as varied and colorful as the forest cotingas. A former British colony, Guyana’s capital city Georgetown preserves quaint Victorian architecture, painted from a tropical palette. People are a mix of Amerindian, Black, Creole, East Indian, European, and Chinese ancestry. English is the official language. During our journey, we have the opportunity to visit a Macushi village, whose people are deeply committed to conserving their native forest and its wildlife.

Narca Moore-Craig leads this exciting neotropical adventure. At owner Peg Abbott’s request, she scouted the route two years ago.  She was so excited with the animal life and overall experience that she returned with family and friends for a more extended journey.  Narca’s breadth of knowledge and caring style of guiding makes this one of our TOP PICKS for a journey in 2010!  

 

 

 

ITINERARY

Mon., Nov. 15 Arrival in Guyana
Arrive today at Cheddi Jagan International Airport, on the outskirts of Georgetown, a charming colonial city known as the ‘garden city of the Caribbean’. Georgetown today is a modern capital city and the chief port of Guyana.  Along tropical, tree-lined streets it sports a fascinating mix of British, French and Dutch colonial architecture.

Upon arrival, we transfer to a lovely, boutique hotel with a swimming pool, where we can relax after our travels. Those arriving in time can join our guide, Narca Moore-Craig, for a welcome dinner.  Some flights may arrive after dinner, and if so we can arrange a transfer to meet them. You may also consider coming a day early to rest up and explore more of Georgetown.
Overnight at Grand Coastal Inn.  (D)
www.grandcoastal.com/inn.html

Tues., Nov. 16 Georgetown / Botanic Garden / Mahica River
We rise early to enjoy the nearby Botanic Garden at its freshest. Raucous parrots and colorful macaws greet the day as Wattled Jacanas tread the lotus plants and waterlilies. We search for the scarce Blood-colored Woodpecker, an inhabitant of the coastal plain of northern South America, found only in the Guianas. These extensive and beautiful gardens provide a colonial roost for Snail Kites, and we hope to catch our first glimpse of antshrikes and woodcreepers, two characteristic Neotropical bird families. As the day warms, spectacular Helicopis and longwing butterflies warm up as well.

After a mid-morning breakfast replete with tropical fruit, we drive along the coast to the Mahica River for a boat ride through mangroves and surrounding marshland. Specialties of this habitat include the strange Hoatzin (the only avian specialist to subsist on leaves!) and Rufous Crab-Hawks. If we are lucky, we may also spot some tiny Green-rumped Parrotlets as well as flashy orioles. A bold and curious Black-capped Donacobius may peek out at us from the dense riverside vegetation.

During the hottest part of the afternoon, we retreat to our hotel for a siesta or a swim, before our evening visit to the home of Roy Geddes, Guyana’s most famous Steel Pan player and maker. Discover how steel pan is made, and enjoy Roy’s mini museum and, especially, a concert, before having dinner in his garden.
Overnight at the Grand Coastal Inn (B,L,D)

Wed., Nov. 17 Kaieteur Waterfall / Iwokrama Field Station
This morning we fly out of Georgetown’s domestic airport (Ogle Airstrip). Our flight takes us over an almost-unbroken carpet of emerald forest, to the edge of the Guyanan tepuis, an ecoregion of isolated sandstone plateaus overlying the Guinean Shield. Here the Potaro River thunders in a sheer drop of 748 feet, forming Kaiteur Falls, almost five times the height of Niagara Falls. We land on an airstrip at this remote tepui to view the falls and explore the forest edge. With luck, we hope to find brilliant Guinean Cocks-of-the-Rocks at their lek. Orange-breasted Falcons nest nearby, and White-chinned and White-tipped Swifts swirl over the gorge. One of the outstanding sounds of the forest is the song of the Musician Wren, a resident species here. Along the path we may see tiny, carnivorous sundews, plants which feed on insects as an adaptation for living in mineral-poor soils.

We continue on our flight to land at Fair View Village, and then travel a short way by boat on the Essequibo River, arriving at Iwokrama Field Station in time for a late lunch. This internationally-known research station is situated in the midst of protected lowland tropical rainforest with spectacular biodiversity. A short list of birds we may find includes Black Nunbirds, Amazonian Antshrikes, Spotted Puffbirds, Green Aracaris, Guianan Red Cotingas, Bronzy Jacamars, Chestnut and Waved Woodpeckers, and Strong-billed Woodcreepers.  After a rest, and as the day cools, we hike trails near the field station, hoping for a glimpse of a Capuchinbird, another bizarre cotinga which is colored rusty orange and has a voice like a resonant chain-saw.

Our accommodations at the field station are in thatched cottages built of sustainable native hardwoods. Beds are draped in mosquito netting to keep out any overly-friendly bugs as we sleep. A central two-story lodge houses the station’s dining room, kitchen, library and office.
Overnight at Iwokrama Field Station (B,L,D)

Thurs., Nov. 18 Iwokrama Forest / Turtle Mountain
At daybreak, and after an early breakfast, we set out by boat to the foot of Turtle Mountain. A good trail winds past forest-screened ponds where Green-and-rufous Kingfishers forage. The rare and elusive Agami Heron is possible to observe here. Keeping our birders' pace, which hopefully will be interrupted by foraging flocks following columns of army ants, we steadily ascend about 900 feet to an excellent overlook, atop Turtle Mountain.

During the several days in which we explore the Iwokrama forest, a wealth of species is possible, including Black Spider Monkeys, Wedge-capped Capuchins, Green Aracaris, two toucans, White Bellbirds, and any of five species of eagles! Over 500 species of birds inhabit this forest known for its especially high density of parrots and cotingas. Although it’s impossible to predict just which of the forest’s fabled wildlife will cross our path during our days here, something will, and the possibilities are entrancing, from Spix’s Guans to Tiny Tyrant-Manakins.

We take a packed lunch along today, so that we can spend the full morning and early afternoon on Turtle Mountain. Then, as activity subsides, we retreat to our cottages to relax during the hottest hours and refresh ourselves with cool-water showers. This evening, after dinner and sunset, we return to the river for a night outing by boat, in search of Black and Spectacled Caiman, nightbirds such as Spectacled Owl or Blackish Nightjar, and other nocturnal denizens of the Essequibo. Seeing the rare Zigzag Heron is even possible!
Accommodations at Iwokrama Field Station (B,L,D)www.iwokrama.org/ecotours/fieldstationphotogallery.htm
www.iwokramacanopywalkway.com

Fri., Nov. 19 Iwokrama Forest / Atta Canopy Walkway
As toucans and macaws greet the new day, we enjoy breakfast, then begin the next stage of our journey, driving and walking a little-traveled road through the forest. The Iwokrama road is famous for guests being able to actually see one of its healthy population of Jaguars, and to find as well its spectacular birds like Spangled Cotinga, Pompadour Cotinga, Guianan Red-Cotinga, several macaws, Crimson Topaz, Gray-winged Trumpeter, and Marail Guan. Flowering shrubs along the roadside are magnets for brilliant tropical butterflies.

Mixed in with more typical lowland tropical rainforest is another habitat known as Mori Scrub, a low forest growing on white quartzite sand. Mori Scrub supports a unique assemblage of birds, including Black Manakins, Rufous-crowned Elaenias and Red-shouldered Tanagers. We explore this habitat, as well as the taller forest along the way.
Our next stop, also within the Iwokrama forest, is the delightful Atta Rainforest Lodge which gives us access to the richest, wildest forest of the entire trip. The lodge is a project of the Macushi community of Surama, and income from it helps to support the community's efforts to preserve their forest wilderness. At Atta, we stay in cabins with shared bathroom facilities. 

When we arrive, the staff at Atta will serve lunch. We'll relax for a while; then, as the afternoon cools, we'll enter the surrounding forest. A 20-minute walk along a very good trail will take us to Atta's celebrated Canopy Walkway. The trail leads part way up a steep hillside, and from it we'll step onto a series of suspended walkways and decks, each anchored to a giant rainforest tree. This nearly-level system of walkways will carry us to vantage points up to 35 metres high, which overlook the surrounding canopy. From these decks, we'll train our binoculars and scope on any wildlife we find, including spider monkeys or howlers. Among the 134 bird species recorded at the walkway are Painted Parakeet, Guianan Toucanet, Pompadour Cotinga, Red-and-green Macaw, Crimson Fruitcrow, and a host of crown specialists. Weather permitting, we'll stay till darkness falls, in hopes of seeing a rare White-winged Potoo.
Overnight at Atta Rainforest Lodge (B,L,D)

Sat., Nov. 20 Iwokrama Forest / Atta Canopy Walkway
Taking advantage of our time here, we'll welcome the dawn from the canopy walkway. Short-tailed Nighthawks settle in for the day, as swifts take to the sky. White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans yodel, Barred Forest-Falcons bark, and Red-throated Caracaras do their considerable best to add to the general cacophony.

Atta's forest is exceedingly rich, and we can divide our time between the canopy walkway and the trails below, where we may find antswarms with their attendant White-plumed and Rufous-fronted Antbirds. Black Currasows daintily pick their way through the forest, and even across the grounds of the lodge. We may startle a band of trumpeters along the trail, or be startled by the loud raps of huge Red-necked Woodpeckers. One prize we'll seek is the very local Blue-cheeked Parrot. Giant Owl butterflies gather at fallen fruit on the forest floor. Our sharp-eyed local guides are Macushi Indians, well-versed in the uses of forest plants and alert to the forest's subtleties.
Overnight at Atta Rainforest Lodge (B,L,D)

Sun., Nov. 21 Cock-of-the-Rock Trail / Rupununi Savanna
On our last early morning at Atta we'll return to either the trails or the canopy walkway as the forest rouses, for a final immersion in Atta's rainforest. Then, after breakfast, we depart for the Rupununi Savanna, continuing south on the little-traveled Iwokrama road, with its high potential for interesting wildlife. Plumbeous Kites, Swallow-wings, and Guianan Puffbirds may observe our progress. En route, we'll venture along an easy 20-minute trail to an imposing jumble of massive rock, where Guinean Cocks-of-the-Rock lek and nest, and where we hope to catch one or more at home.

The forest gives way to savanna with scattered trees, termite mounds, and Macushi villages. A new assemblage of species awaits us here – instead of forest hawks, we hope to find Black-collared and Savanna Hawks; Fork-tailed Flycatchers replace Long-tailed Tyrants; Nacunda Nighthawks fly at twilight in place of Short-tailed Nighthawks; Rufous-throated Sapphires outnumber the Black-eared Fairies.

Our destination today, and our base for the next two nights, is the very comfortable Rock View Lodge, near the northernmost settlement of Annai. Here we enjoy relaxing in the Rupununi's only swimming pool, in our porch hammocks, or under the shade of large mango trees. After lunch and a rest, we offer an optional hike up a rougher trail than we’ve yet traversed, which offers views of the Pakaraima Mountains and the possibility of seeing colorful Finsch’s Euphonias or Yellow-billed Jacamars. An evening gathering by the swimming pool will be followed by dinner al fresco, under a huge mango tree. The menu at Rock View blends Creole, Guyanese and Brazilian cuisines, to fine effect.
www.wilderness-explorers.com/rock_view_lodge.htm
Overnight at Rock View Lodge (B,L,D)

Mon., Nov. 22 Surama
After breakfast, we'll drive a short distance to the Amerindian community of Surama, a dispersed village set in five square miles of savannah, surrounded by the densely forested Pakaraima Mountains.  The Macushi here still observe many of their ancestors' traditional practices. 

The road into Surama offers excellent birding, with possibilities ranging from Pearl Kite and Bat Falcon to Racket-tailed Coquette and elegant Paradise Jacamars. In the village, we'll learn about community conservation efforts and have lunch in their large dining room, with views over the savanna to the encircling mountains. Before returning to Rock View Lodge, we will search shaded margins of a nearby shallow lake for a day-roosting Great Potoo. 
Overnight at Rock View Lodge (B,L,D)

Tues., Nov. 23   Return to Georgetown / City Tour
Our last morning in the savanna, we'll explore the area around Rock View Lodge. Lunch will be our last meal under the mango tree, then we'll go to a nearby airstrip for our flight back to Georgetown.

This afternoon enjoy a Georgetown city tour. We'll immerse ourselves in the sights, colors, aromas, and ambiance of this colonial city. The Dutch first laid out this colonial city along the bank of the Demerara River estuary. Most buildings date to the 18th and 19th centuries. Our city tour will include time at the famous Stabroek Market, with its daily flow of exotic fruits and other commerce. We'll walk the avenues with an experienced guide, well-versed in the city’s history, and accompanied by a vehicle to transport us between areas of interest. Along the way, we may run across Guyanan handicrafts or sample local foods.  

Dinner tonight is at your leisure.
Overnight at Grand Coastal Inn (B,L)

Wed., Nov. 24 Departures
This morning you will be transferred to the international airport for the flight home. If your flight is very early, the hotel will pack a box breakfast for you.  (B)

 

KARANAMBU RANCH Extension
Nov. 23-26, 2010

"Settled in 1927 by Tiny McTurk, Karanambu Ranch has been home to the McTurk family ever since. True to its origins, Karanambu remains a working cattle ranch on its 125 square miles of savannah land, worked by traditional vaqueros. The meat produced is completely organic and is either sold locally or consumed on the ranch."
- www.karanambu.com

Tuesday 23 This morning we will transfer by road to Ginep Landing and then travel slowly by boat on the Rupununi River to Karanambu Ranch. We will look for the many bird species, including Jabirus nesting along the river. Joining them are   Wood Storks, Bat Falcons, King Vultures, Channel-billed and Toco Toucans, Brown-throated Parakeets, White-necked Jacobins, Drab Water Tyrants and Ringed, Green, Amazon and Green-and-rufous Kingfishers. There is a good chance of spotting primates too. Karanambu is the home of Diane McTurk, widely known for her work rehabilitating orphaned Giant River Otters.  Our birdwatching here will be largely in woodland patches or gallery forest along the river where we’ll hope to find such species as Spotted Puffbirds, Striped Woodcreepers, Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakins, Golden-spangled Piculets and Capuchinbirds.  Overnight at Karanambu Ranch.  (B,L,D)
www.wilderness-explorers.com/karanambu.htm

Wednesday 24 Whilst out in the boat you may see Capped and Little Blue Herons, Great and Snowy Egrets, Purple Gallinule and Pied Lapwing.  When water levels are appropriate a wooded swamp near the ranch is the site of a surprisingly large colony of Boat-billed Herons, and at any season the river and airstrip provide habitat for no fewer than eight species of nightjars.  Overnight at Karanambu Ranch.  (B,L,D)

Thursday 25 Today we devote the entire day to exploring Karanambu and its varied habitats, traveling by boat to certain localities up and downstream, and by Land Rover to one or another forest patch. Grasslands host Double Striped Thick-knees, Bi-colored Wrens, and Bearded Tachuris while forest patches host Ferruginous Pygmy Owls, Violaceous Trogons, Blue Ground-Doves, Plain-crowned Spinetails and Great Antshrikes. The river is home to Wood Storks, White faced and Black-bellied Whistling Doves, Stripe-backed Bitterns and Pied Lapwings.  As we move around we may see Least Grebes, South American Snipes, Rufous-throated Sapphires, Yellow Tyrannulets, Cliff Flycatchers and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters.  Learn more about Giant River Otters and their habitat requirements; we hope observe their fascinating behaviors first-hand. Overnight at Karanambu Ranch.  (B,L,D)

Friday 26 We spend the early morning birding around Karanambu Ranch. For those interested there is also the opportunity to travel out onto the savannah to look for a Giant Anteater.  After lunch we will take a flight to Georgetown.  (B,L)

This extension is offered to us by our Guyana operator and will be self-guided in that those traveling will travel to the lodge to meet local guides. With fewer than 8 persons Naturalist Journeys will not send a tour leader, but Narca has been to this marvelous facility and recommends it highly. As it falls over the Thanksgiving holiday we do not know how many will book, but Karanambu Ranch will guarantee this tour extension for even just 2 travelers, and we are pleased to offer this visit. Cost of the extension is based on the number of participants and includes:
-           airport transfers
-           double or twin accommodation
-           meals as listed
-           all road and river transfers
-           local bar at Karanambu ranch
-           activities as described
-           local guides
-           VAT

Not Included :
-           items of a personal nature
-           alcoholic drinks except where mentioned above
-           departure tax
-           international flights
-           visa
-           excess weight on the internal scheduled flight

2 persons $975.00 pp, double occupancy
3-4 persons $925.00 pp, double occupancy
5 or more persons $875.00 pp, double occupancy

 

 

Cost of the Journey Cost of the journey is $3990.00 from Georgetown, based on double occupancy.  This cost includes all accommodations, meals as specified in the itinerary, group airport transfers, professional guide services including local guides, park and program entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. Tour cost does not include: round-trip transportation from your home city to Georgetown, Guyana; optional activities or items of a personal nature such as laundry, porterage, telephone charges, maid gratuities, or beverages from the bar.  Single supplement is $355.00 Group Size: Maximum of 14, minimum of 4. The tour price is based on 8 persons, with fewer than 8 a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300) may apply. Travel Arrangements Plan to arrive in Georgetown on TBD, in time to touch base with Narca and be rested for tomorrow. You may wish to arrive a day or two early (at your own cost) to enjoy the city’s museums and sights. Most international flights go through Port of Spain in Trinidad, and it is also possible to add several days to your tour there if you wish. A variety of airlines service Guyana; most flights route through Miami. Departure is at your leisure on TBD. Pace of the Tour Moderate, but adventurous, due to travel to remote locations, with potential heat and humidity. As in all tropical countries, we plan to rest during the hottest hours of most days. Participants should be able to walk on uneven terrain up to 3 miles. A flexible attitude and sense of enjoyment of adventure is always appreciated by the group. Part of the stay is at a biological field station with a remote field camp with shared bath facilities. We think its well worth it to explore some of the most fabulous tropical forests on the planet, and we balance that with some lovely hotels with nice amenities on either end. Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery.  Photo credits Hoatzin (to come), Tony Beck - to see more of his images, go to: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/; photo of Narca Moore-Craig, Charles Parker; Red-necked Woodpecker and Guinean Cock-of-the-Rock, Noel Snyder; Karanambu Ranch - pond lilies, www.karanambu.com; Giant Otter, Bud Ferguson; all other images, Narca Moore-Craig.

 

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