Eastern Europe: Hungary & Romania
September 19 – October 2, 2008

Hungary and the neighboring Danube Delta region of Romania offer some of the best of birding and nature in Europe today. Poised on the edge of the westernmost edge of the vast Asian steppe; Hungary’s “Great Plain,” laced with wetlands, provides habitat for a wide variety of bird species. And in fall, the Danube Delta, which we explore by houseboat, attracts untold numbers of migratory waterfowl. Words, bird lists and pictures are not enough to describe this impressive spectacle!

Hungary is known for its seminal role in history: once a crossroads of Byzantine and early European cultures, it was later part of the Astro-Hungarian Empire; in our time it is remembered as one of the first Eastern Bloc countries to break away from the U.S.S.R. Naturalist Journeys returns for second a trip to this fascinating country, and we are excited about the combination of natural and cultural experiences planned – particularly since we have added time at the Danube Delta. Widely-known birder and photographer Gerard Gorman leads this outstanding adventure in which we explore a variety of habitats, including marshy grasslands, beech and hemlock forests, and even stalactite-filled caves. As many as 200 species of birds are possible on this trip, including nine species of woodpeckers, a range of wading birds and waterfowl, and eastern European specialties such as the Great Bustard, Imperial Eagle, and Saker Falcon.

We are assured of eating well on our Journey Hungary is also the home of paprika, goulash (gulyas in Hungarian), great wines, colorful folk art, impressive architecture, and a rich tradition of horsemanship and nomadic herding. We have many opportunities to learn about and sample each country’s cultural delights. September is a great time to enjoy a taste of Hungary!

 

ITINERARY

Fri., Sept. 19 Arrival in Budapest, Hungary
Welcome to Budapest! Those arriving early enough may want to take a stroll before dinner (or afterward!) to see the many historical sites within walking distance of the hotel, including the famous Chain Bridge and the Castle District. Enjoy stunning views of the massive, neo-Gothic style Parliament building, with its towering dome, across the river from the hotel.
Accommodations at a hotel on the Danube River, Budapest (D)

Sat., Sept. 20 and Sun., Sept. 21 Kiskunsag National Park / Lake Kolon Bird Reserve
This morning we drive one hour southeast of Budapest to the Kiskunsag National Park, which protects 190,000 acres of fragile habitat in Hungary’s southern steppe region. We have two days and nights in the area to explore the park and surrounding area, while enjoying the comforts of our lodgings in Apaj, on the edge of the national park.

The steppe resembles the North American prairie, but with a greater number and variety of wetlands. The park encompasses sand-dune woods, juniper groves, marshes, bogs, wet grasslands, salt lakes, Robinia (false acacia) copses, and sodic plain. We will certainly have many opportunities to observe Hungary’s national bird, the Great Bustard, both alone and in flocks. This is the world’s heaviest flying bird, with some males weighing as much as 50 lbs. The Saker Falcon is another specialty of the park. In the sandy grasslands of the Fluophaza Sand Dunes, we look for Sand Lizards and other flora and fauna particular to this habitat.

At the Lake Kolon Bird Reserve, which lies at the heart of the region, we can expect to see number of migratory shorebirds and wading birds, including both Black and White Storks, various species of herons, and a variety of ducks.

While here we have an opportunity to see Lippizzaner horses, the renowned white horses originally bred for Hapsburg emperors and still considered the finest riding horses in the world.
Accommodations at the Hotel Apaj, Apaj (B,L,D, all days)

Mon., Sept. 22 and Tues., Sept. 23 Bukk National Park / Vineyards of the Bukk Hills
Today we drive north, about three hours to Bukk National Park, established in 1976 and named for the many beech trees in the park. We stay two nights in a quaint and friendly family-run inn in a wine-producing village on the edge of the park; the proprietors serve traditional Hungarian home cooking.

While the park includes rocky limestone hills rising to 3,000 feet, we spend most of our time in lower elevation habitats, including forests of beech, hornbeam and oak, oak-dotted pastures, and meadows. The region is home to eight woodpecker species, including Middle Spotted, Lesser Spotted, White-backed, Grey-headed, and Black Woodpeckers. The Eastern Imperial Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Northern Goshawk, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, and Short-toed Eagle are among the possible raptors here. In the garden of our inn we’re likely to see Hawfinch, Black Redstart, and Eurasian Tree Frogs.

Several lovely woodland trails begin near our inn; through a series of short drives and nature walks we experience the best habitats of the Bukk. Areas of limestone and flower-rich meadows are good places to spot numerous butterfly species, including: Brimstone, Purple Hairstreak, Sooty Copper, Purple-edged Copper, Chalk-Hill Blue, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Dryad, and more. The area is rich in other forms of wildlife as well; we hope to find Balkan Wall Lizard, Agile Frog, and perhaps the rarer Yellow-bellied Toad, among others.

The Bukk Hills are renowned for producing some spectacular red and white wines, most from family-run vineyards. We plan to visit a 100-year-old family-run wine cellar to learn about and sample some regional specialties. Hungary is known for its traditional folk art -- including embroidered clothing, pottery, and carvings of wood or bone – and you will have a chance to peruse and shop for crafts here. We also have another chance to enjoy the famous Lippizzaners. One night, enjoy dinner on your own so you can sample a vineyard if you like!
Accommodations at the Hotel Nomad, Noszavaj (B,L,D both days)

Wed., Sept. 24 and Thurs., Sept. 25 Hortobagy National Park
We finish our sampler of Hungary’s national parks with two days in Hortobagy, the best wildlife area on the Great Hungarian Plain or steppe, and arguably one of the best in Europe. The park is only a one-and-a-half hour drive from Bukk; on the way we’ll stop in the Heves grasslands to search for Saker Falcon, Red-footed Falcon, and Eastern Imperial Eagle. Roe Deer, Brown Hare, and numerous butterfly species -- including the Eastern Bath White and Pale Clouded Yellow – also frequent these grasslands. We also stop for a picnic lunch at the lily-clad Liake Tisza, a vast, manmade lake that provides habitat for numerous herons, egrets, bitterns, and other wetland species. In September, it also attracts migrating storks and raptors. We arrive in the afternoon to settle into our lodgings, a family-run inn 15 minutes from the park in Tiszafured.

The park, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, comprises some 200,000 acres of grasslands (called puszta) and wetlands; more than 300 species of birds have been sighted there. In the grassland areas we look again for the Great Bustard, as well as for the rare Long-legged Buzzard, which hunts over the plains. Hortobagy is also on Europe’s main eastern flyway for Cranes, with up to 60,000 birds in the area during the peak migration period. While we are there we may see the first of the migrating flocks.

Other species in this habitat include Tawny Pipit, Crested Lark, Corn Bunting, the blue-headed race of Yellow Wagtail, Montagu’s Harrier, Little Owl, Eurasian Thick-knee, Eurasian Dotterel, and Black-tailed Godwit. Fresh-water marshes and smaller brackish lakes host Black-necked Grebe, Garganey, Ferruginous Duck, and migrating Terns.

We visit numerous fish-pond systems to marvel at the host of resident and migrating waders and shorebirds, including Pygmy Cormorant, Red-necked Grebe, Great White and Little Egrets, Purple Heron Common Bittern, Eurasian Spoonbill, Whiskered Tern, and Yellow-legged Gull. Passerines in the area include Penduline and Bearded Tits. A few pairs of White-tailed Eagle breed here, too, and September is a good month to see them with their recently fledged juveniles.

The park is also home to several interesting species of mammals, including a gopher-like rodent called Suslik. We can also see several examples of Hungary’s traditional domestic breeds, including Mangalica (a woolly pig), Grey Cattle, Racka Sheep, and Nonius Horses. This alkaline steppe habitat also hosts wildflowers usually associated with the seashore, such as Sea Plantain, Sea Aster, and Sea Lavender.

In the village of Hortobagy, we can learn more about – and shop for – traditional Hungarian crafts.
Accommodations at Nadas Panzio, Tiszafured (B,L,D, both days)

Fri., Sept. 26
After breakfast this morning we leave the Great Plains of Hungary and return to Budapest, a two-hour drive. We return to the airport to fly from Budapest to Bucharest, Romania (about 1 hour). From the airport we then drive to the Danube Delta region and hotel accommodations for the next two nights. Romania is one of Europe's largest countries covering some 237,500 sq.kms. It is bordered by the Ukraine to the north, Moldova to the north-east, Bulgaria to the south, Yugoslavia to the south-west and Hungary to the east. The country boasts an impressive range of wildlife habitats and this habitat diversity has resulted in a varied and exciting birdlife. Indeed, some of the wildest forests and mountains are here in the mighty Carpathians and Romania also hosts what is arguably Europe's greatest wetland, the remarkable Danube Delta. South of the Delta along the Black Sea coast are saline and freshwater marshes, lagoons, beaches and dunes.
Accommodations at hotel near Danube Delta (B, L, D)

Sat., Sept. 27
Today we explore other wetlands that surround the Danube Delta. Being terra firma sites, with brackish marsh, pools, dunes and dry steppe, they are are easier to work for songbirds and passage waders such as Marsh and Broad-billed Sandpipers and breeders such as Kentish Plover, Stone Curlew and Collared Pratincole. Terns should include Little, Sandwich, Caspian, Whiskered, Black and White-winged Black. A careful search may turn up the odd Ruddy Shelduck.

Romania hosts the world's largest population of Pygmy Cormorant with over 7000 pairs, Europe's largest population of Eurasian White Pelican with around 3500 pairs, a crucial population of 150 pairs of Dalmatian Peilcan and the core European population of Ferruginous Duck. All are in good numbers in September. Relax with a delightful meal at days end, and prepare for the next part of our adventure in the delta on houseboats!
Accommodations at hotel near Danube Delta (B, L, D)

Sun., Sept 28, Mon. Sept. 29, Tues., Sept. 30
We have three days to explore the Danube Delta by houseboat. This is Europe's second largest riverine delta, (after the Volga Delta) covering some 4,178 (and growing!) square km. Around 82% of this area lies in Romania and 18% in the Ukraine. For various reasons it is best, and easiest, to bird the Romanian part of the Delta. It is in our opinion Europe's greatest wetland for birds and birding whether one considers size, species present or sheer numbers of birds. Of course, one reads everywhere (in books, articles and especially tour brochures) how "this place" and "that site" is "unrivalled", "the best in Europe" etc, etc, indeed all kinds of superlatives are used to describe Europe's top birding destinations, but with respect to them all, no wetland can match the Danube Delta. The facts speak for themselves... the Danube Delta lies at the end of the 2,840 km long River Danube. The Danube rises in Germany's Black Forest and ends, after passing through the enormous filter of the Delta, by flowing into the Black Sea off Romania. This mighty river passes through ten countries and four capital cities (Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest, Belgrade) on the way. In 1990 the Danube Delta was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve which covers some 5,800 km square comprising as it does the Delta proper and the lagoons and other habitats immediately to the south along the Black Sea coastline.

This is a rare opportunity to explore a maze of waterways, isolated lakes and ponds, floating islands of reed, willow lined channels and boggy alder thickets from a boat. You haven't "done" the Danube Delta if you haven't cruised around it. Many birds can be seen on its fringes but one needs to get into the heart of this wetland to fully appreciate it. To do this it is necessary to join an organised group (and overall a guided birding group is best rather than the general sightseeing trips on offer) because exploring by private motor boat (if indeed one can be found) is forbidden in most of the core areas and indeed unwise unless it comes with a local navigator. And despite some of the rare and exciting species mentioned, it is above all the sheer numbers of birds that makes the Delta such a wonderful place. Access is from the inland port of Tulcea which is a four hour drive north-east of Bucharest.
Accommodations on chartered houseboat (B,L,D) all days.

Wed., Oct.1
Today we drive to Bucharest, where you can stay on at your leisure to explore the city or return on flights to Hungary or the USA. (B)

Thurs., Oct. 2 Arrival back in USA (B)

Cost of the Journey: The cost of the journey is $2850.00* from Budapest, Hungary, returning from Bucharest, Romania. This cost is based on double occupancy and includes: all accommodations, most meals as specified in the itinerary, group airport transfers, transportation in Hungary and Romania, park and preserve entrance fees, and miscellaneous program costs. This cost is based on a minimum of 8 persons. If there are fewer than 8, a small group surcharge (typically $100-$300.00) may apply. It does not include items of a personal nature such as beverages from the bar, porterage, laundry, phone calls, or gift items. We also recommend a gratuity for our local drivers and guides, which is left to your discretion. Single supplement is $300.00. *Cost of the journey is based on published exchange rates of April 8, 2008; if exchange rates change before payment due dates we will adjust our billing accordingly before the 120 and 60 day payments. Travel Arrangements: Budapest and Bucharest are served by a number of major carriers including American, Alitalia, Delta , Northwest , KLM, Malev Hungarian and Air France. Please arrive prior to dinner on September 19th. We recommend trying to make a morning arrival so you have time to relax, but know that is not possible from all locations. If you need to come in the day previous, we can help with arrangements and a private transfer. You may need to return to Budapest for easy round-trip flights, if so please make sure to leave time for the segment Bucharest to Buadpest prior to your international departure. Photo Credits: Great Bustards (intro), Collared Pratincole, Houseboats and Tugboat, Gerard Gorman; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

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