Southern India: Endemic Birds & Mammals
January 1-14, 2011

 

Guide: Peg Abbott

Recent Trip Report

Recent Species List

Step in to a quiet and lush forest inhabited by shy creatures. Here in the canopy, rare and endangered Lion-tailed Macaques compete for space with the Nilgiri Langurs, while down below we may see Asiatic Elephants as they forage on thick bamboo and lush forest grass. The birdlife of Southern India is amazing! Imagine Giant Hornbills flying from one fig to another and 28 endemic bird species hiding in the silent forests. There are not just endemic birds but mammals too – the Nilgiri Marten being the most shy of them.

This NEW tour provides you an opportunity to come close to some of the best hidden natural biodiversity of India; sample some great regional food and at the same time get an idea of the life and the people of South India  – welcome to an ancient land – we have been waiting for you.

Target Species List: Malabar Grey Hornbill, White-cheeked Barbet, White-bellied Treepie, Nilgiri Flycatcher, Black-and-orange Flycatcher, White-bellied Blue Flycatcher, Gray-headed Bulbul, Nilgiri Laughingthrush, Malabar Lark, Nilgiri Pipit, Malabar Parakeet, Ceylon Frogmouth, Nilgiri Tahr, Nilgiri Marten, Lion-tailed Macaque, and much more!

 

 ITINERARY

(Travel Note: To reach Kochi on Jan 1st, it will likely require travel from the US on Dec. 31st).

Sat., Jan. 1 Arrive Kochi
Arrive Kochi International Airport and, after customs clearance, we will be met by our local tour leader at the arrival lobby. We should see our first few birds as you move from airport to hotel – Black-eared and Black Kites. As we make a few stops, on a nearby field on your way to the hotel, we may add sightings of Brahminy Kites, five species of wagtails: Paddyfield, Citrine, Masked, White and Yellow, three species of pipits: Paddyfield, Richard and Tawny:, noisy Yellow-wattled and Red-wattled Lapwings and both Crested and Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks. India’s busy and colorful street life vies with the birds for our attentions.

Settle into your accommodations.  After some rest you will be taken for an afternoon boat cruise – you may sight Whiskered, Gull Billed and Lesser Crested Terns, Black-headed and Brown-headed Gulls, Pallas’ Gull, Western Reef heron, Eastern Cattle, Intermediate, Small and Great Egret, Large, Indian and Little Cormorants and the Indo Asiatic Hump Backed Dolphin.

Post boat cruise – the evening is at leisure.  We will have our welcome dinner tonight.
Accommodations Tea Bungalow, Kochi (B,L,D)
http://teabungalow.in/aboutus.htm

Sun. Jan. 2 Kochi / Thattekkad
This morning after breakfast we drive to the Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary.  It’s a three hour drive and we look for birds and enjoy the busy street life along the way.

Thattekkad was developed by the untiring efforts of India's birdman Dr Salim Ali. Ali described Thattekkad in the 1930's as the richest bird habitat in peninsular India, comparable only with the eastern Himalayas. Since then, much of the forest has been altered to cultivation of teak and mahogany plantations.  What survives gives a glimpse of the phenomenal bird diversity of the once widespread lowland forests of Kerala.  The endemic birds that you can see here include White Bellied Treepies, Malabar Gray Hornbills, Malabar Trogons, White-bellied Woodpeckers, Malabar Barbets, Gray-headed Bulbuls, Flame-throated Bulbuls, White-cheeked Barbets, Black-headed Munias and others.  

After a welcoming lunch, the rest of the afternoon is at your leisure. The lodge is a simple affair and Eldhose, the owner of the lodge and a pioneer in birding in the area, needs no introduction. Eldho's Birding Lodge is nestled deep in a 10 acre plantation; it is for bird watchers and nature lovers.  The envious location on the river affords walks in the wild country and unexplored territories, enhanced by the most experienced guides. The lodge does not have air conditioning and at times (afternoon) it may be humid – but we find it is an excellent place and a superb base for birding. Eldhose will accompany us on some of our outings.
Accommodations at Eldho's Birding Lodge (B,L,D)
www.eldhosebirdinglodge.com
www.ecoindia.com/parks/thattekkad-bird-sanctuary.html

Mon., Jan. 3 Thattekkad
Early morning – we look for species like Mottled Wood-owl,s Forest Eagle-owls, Malayan Night Herons, Ceylon Frogmouths, Dollarbirds, Grey-headed Bulbuls, Black-rumped and Greater Flamebacks, Streak-throated, Indian Pygmy and Rufous Woodpeckers, Ashy Woodswallows, River and Whiskered Terns, Great, both Malabar and Grey Hornbills, Malabar Trogons, one or more of three nightjars: Jerdon’s, Grey or Great-eared, Blyth’s, Paddyfield and Richard’s Pipits and several species of owls. White-cheeked Barbets, a great selection of monarchs: Rusty-tailed, Blue-throated, Tickell’s Blue, Red-breasted, Red-throated, and Black-naped Blue and one of the most spectacular species, Asian Paradise Flycatchers should provide added interest. There will be a good possibility of seeing White-bellied Woodpeckers, White-bellied Treepies, and White-bellied Blue Flycatchers amongst other endemics.

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary also has a very good diversity of mammals including Indian Wild Dogs, Asiatic Elephants, Travancore Flying Squirrels, Sambars, Chitals and Civets. We have two days to explore Thattekkad and we spend full days out taking a packed lunch. This is a wonderful pace, with time in nature our focus.
Accommodations at Eldho's Birding Lodge (B,L,D)

Tue., Jan 4 Thattekkad / Edamalayar Dam
This morning, from Eldho’s lodge on the river, we drive to the Edamalayar Dam looking for Mountain Hawk Eagles, Gray Headed Fish Eagles, Bonelli’s Eagles, Eurasian Sparrow Hawks, Besras, Striated Herons and other species.  

On one of the nights at Eldho's we will take a night walk in a nearby area looking and listening for the Ceylon Bay Owl.
Accommodations at Eldho's Birding Lodge (B,L,D)

Wed., Jan. 5 Thattekkad / Munnar
This morning, after breakfast, we drive to Munnar (drive time – 5/6 hours).  'Munnar' is one of the world's most popular hill stations located in Kerala, in the southern region. Lush tea gardens and thick shola forests mix with each other to create a moist evergreen forest and this fascinating habitat is interspersed with spice plantations and jagged ‘Nilgiri peaks’ dating back a few million years.

Munnar is an ideal for quiet walks along the forest patches, visiting cardamom and spice plantations, or birding. We for some of the many endemic species that are found here. The reason why there are endemics here is that one time these areas were connected to the Himalayas. Once the mountains got cut off, some of the plants became endemic and the species of birds that were dependent on these plants became local endemics.  This region is often compared to the Sky Islands of Arizona which are mountain islands set between the Rockies and the Sierra Madres.

Misty mountains, thick forests, hills covered in a quilt of tea plantations, deep valleys and sparkling streams and waterfalls make the region memorable. Munnar has a beauty and a charm that is unsurpassed in any southern hill station.  It is a place where you open your eyes to birdsong.  Little visited by tourists, in the early morning with the mist covering the higher ranges, it has a surreal beauty.

Later this afternoon, we walk in the nearby areas looking for some of the endemics such as Nilgiri Laughing Thrushes and Nilgiri Whistling Thrushes. We may also visit a spice farm today.

As the afternoon winds down,  we take a walk to the other side of Munnar looking for birds like Fork-tailed Swifts, Pacific Swallows and more.  We may also come down to the town to check out a tea factory.  In the factory, we can watch the process of the leaf being converted into the more recognizable form we buy in the supermarket.  Tea is like wine.  Everything lies in the process, the age and of course the tasting. 

Windermere Estate, is a simple 6-bedroom property perched on a hilltop, surrounded by a cardamom estate, situated high in the scenic Pilni Hills.  The 360 degree views from this cozy retreat are truly awe-inspiring. We often find ourselves looking down on clouds below.  When the clouds disperse, the Western Ghats, an almost mythical mountain range, open up before you. 

Windermere Estate, famous for its unique ambiance, was established in the 19th century.  The owner, a charming, former Navy captain lives in the old planter's bungalow.  His  friendly staff will take you on walks to experience the hills at their best.  Let the peace and solitude and the unspoilt wilderness will envelop you.  Delicious local cuisine will ensure no one goes away hungry and the thirst-quenching mint tea awaits guests on their return from their walks.
Accommodations at Windermere Tea Estate (B,L,D)
www.windermeremunnar.com

Thurs., Jan. 6 Munnar / Eravikulam National Park
Early this morning – we drive to the Eravikulam National Park.  In the park, where vehicular traffic is banned, we can walk in the hills looking for the endemic but common Nilgiri Tahrs and the bird activity is stunning.  We will look for endemics like both Nilgiri and White-bellied Blue Flycatchers, Kerala Laughingthrushes, Nilgiri Pipits, White-bellied Blue Robins, Indian Blue Robins, Painted Bush-Quails, Tytler’s, Tickell’s, Large-billed and Western Crowned Leaf-warblers and raptors such as both Bonelli’s and Booted Eagles, and Common Kestrels.   Enjoy a picnic boxed lunch in the national park park.

On our way back – we may make a short stop to catch up with some of the more elusive species, skulkers like Black-and-orange Flycatchers and Nilgiri Flowerpeckers, Nilgiri Flycatchers Indian Blue Robins, White-bellied Blue Robins, Kerala Laughingthrushes amd others.  
Accommodations at the Windermere Tea Estate  (B,L,D)

Fri., Jan. 7 Munnar / Valparai
Today we start very early for Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary in time to reach the sanctuary gates for a short morning hike looking for Grizzled Giant Squirrels. After the hike, a hot breakfast at a nearby village will be waiting for us. We then drive to Valparai through Udumalpet. The road to Valparai winds up through the Western Ghats with more than 40 hairpin bends. This is a fantastic ride through one of the oldest forests in Asia. Wild animals like Lion Tailed Macaques, Nilgiri Langurs, and Small Indian Mongooses join our list of a number of birds that may be seen as we drive up to Valparai. 

Valparai is located 3800 feet above sea level on the Anamalai Hills, a mountain range on the Western Ghats.  A small plantation town, its people are mainly plantation workers who live within the tea, coffee and cinchona plantations that make the area. Valparai is carpeted with tea plantations and is renowned across Southern India as among the most productive tea growing regions in South India. All major tea companies have a presence here including Tata Coffee, BBTC, PKT and the largest planters, the Woodbriar Group.

Later tonight we plan to take a walk in search of endemic Brown Palm Civets and Indian Flying Squirrels as well as endemic Dusky Palm Squirrels. With luck, we may see a few snakes of the region.

The Stanmore Bungalow is a sprawling, 7500 square-feet, British-built bungalow located in Valparai, which is situated on the fringes of the Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary. It features large bedrooms, dressing rooms, modern toilets and fireplaces in all rooms, making our mountain stay most comfortable. A veranda surrounds the entire bungalow and green lawns lie spread across the open courtyard like a proverbial carpet.

A quintessential British bungalow, it is also home to Malabar Giant Squirrels and the occasional, alert Barking Deer making its way across the lawn to snack at the vegetable garden behind the bungalow. We  enjoy sampling more the cuisine of Southern India tonight.
Accommodations at Stanmore Tea Estate Bungalow (B,L,D)
www.teabungalows.com/stanmore.htm 

Sat., Jan. 8 Valparai
This morning, we rise early and head for a strategic area where we hope to observe Lion-tailed Macaques. We will also see some birds here - Asian Paradise Flycatchers, Loten's Sunbirds, Purple Sunbirds, Gold-fronted Leafbirds, Long-tailed Shrikes, Malabar Whistling Thrushes and other species.  After birding and hopefully sighting the Lion-tailed Macaques we return to this delightful lodge for some leisure time. In the afternoon we are taken to the nearby tea estates to see the tea production process or may go for a walk through the estates. This evening, enjoy a short walk after dinner as we look for Brown Palm Civets, Slender Loris and Flying Squirrels.

Apart from a near-perfect climate year round, Valparai is bordered by the Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary, making it a haven to sight wildlife of all kinds. The Sanctuary is home to the Indian Elephants, Wild Gaurs (Indian Bison), Leopards, the endangered Lion – tailed Macaques and rare birds including Great Indian Hornbills.
Accommodations at Stanmore Tea Estate Bungalow (B,L,D)

Sun., Jan. 9 Ooty / Coonoor
Today is a travel day. Very early this morning, we leave to drive about five hours from Valparai to Udhagamandalam (Ooty). Ooty is one of the hill towns of the elite British Raj. Lunch will be at a roadside café en route.  We reach our lodgins mid-afternoon.

Ensconced high on a rising hill, the Savoy Hotel sprawls over six acres of landscaped gardens, offering colonial style cottages that were built between 1834 and 1865.  Colorful flowerbeds merge to form a multi-colored quilt around the cottages, adding to their old English charm.  A quiet retreat, the Savoy offers a little pocket of paradise. Later we will go for a walk through the town and take a look at some of the old churches or take a ride in the narrow gage railway to Coonoor.  
Accommodations at Taj Savoy (B,L,D)
www.tajhotels.com/Leisure/Savoy%20Hotel,OOTY/default.htm

Mon., Jan. 10 Ooty / Emerald Shola Forest
We drive to Emerald Shola Forest today, a 2 hour’s drive, and spend the next couple of hours searching for some of the southern Indian endemic, or near endemic birds, such as Black-and-orange Flycatchers, Kashmirs and Nilgiri Flycatchers, Black-chinned Laughingthrushes and Indian Blackbirds. Other birds include Orange-headed Thrushes, Olive-backed Pipits and Tickell’s Leaf-warblers among others.  We enjoy a packed lunch in the field. If you wish to, you can choose to relax and stay at Ooty, soaking yourself in the gardens of the beautiful hotel surrounded by the hills and take a walk through the Ooty town.

Why is the place referred to as Ooty? Try as they might, the Brits just could not say ‘Udhgamandalam’.  The Todas, original owners of these lands, tried even harder to say ‘Ootacamund’, but all they could manage was ‘Whadacamund’. The British thought they reached a compromise with ‘Wotkymund’. Fortunately for us all, the Todas dismissed the effort outright and today we can save much time, energy and copy space with the simple, practical, Ooty.  Ooty is the called the Scotland of the East’ –Big Queen of the Blue Mountains. though this may be a stretch for any decent Scotsman. However, we find there is plenty to see and eat and explore.
Accommodations at Taj Savoy (B,L,D)

Tue., Jan. 11 Ooty to Mudumalai 
This morning we leave and drive from Ooty to Mudumalai National Park, a Tiger Reserve on the northwestern side of the Blue Mountains. Our route takes us approximately 6 hours.  The Mudumalai Sanctuary is situated in strategic position as a Wildlife corridor between several other protected areas of the Nilgiri (Blue Mountains) Biosphere Reserve. The park hosts three forest types, tropical moist deciduous, tropical forest and southern tropical dry thorn forests in the east. Giant bamboo thickets are prized by wildlife.

After lunch and a bit of rest this afternoon, we look for birds in the nearby areas to our lodge . Here, we focus on species like the White-rumped Shamas, Tickell’s Blue and Verditer Flycatchers, Puff-throated Babblers, Nilgiri Flowerpeckers, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrikes, Small Vernal Hanging Parrots and other species.  Bird life is rich. Regional endemics include Malabar Trogons and Malabar Gray Hornbills, Jerdon’s Bush Larks and Jerdon’s Nightjars. Predatory birds include Crested Hawk-eagles and Crested Serpent Eagles. The park also holds an isolated southern population of Striped Tit-babblers. Of the reptiles, the monitor lizard Varanus bengalensis is the most regularly observed species.

Jungle Retreat, our lodgings for the next two nights, was born out of the Mathias family's close bond with the wilderness. Today, Jungle Retreat is a family run resort where a mixture of wilderness, serenity and comfort is appreciated by travelers from across the world. The resort is located at the foothills of the Nilgiri, skirting the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary & National Park in Tamil Nadu. The resort has a team of naturalists who help us enjoy the park.
Accommodations at Jungle Retreat Lodge (B,L,D)
www.jungleretreat.com 

Wed., Jan. 12 Mudumalai National Park
The Mudumalai Sanctuary lies on the northern and north-western side of the Nilgiris or Blue Mountains, about 80 km north-west of Coimbatore in the extreme north-western corner of Tamil Nadu, on the interstate boundaries with Karnataka and Kerala states in South India. The park was created in 1940 to become the first sanctuary in southern India.

We have a full day to enjoy birds and mammals of the park. Primates found include Southern Gray Langurs and Bonnet Macaques. Elusive Tigers, Leopards and Sloth Bears are sighted occasionally. Other carnivores include the Dhole or Wild Dogs, Striped Hyenas, and Golden Jackals. The Asian Elephant population here totals several hundred animals.

Wildlife if varied. Birds we  look for include Jerdon’s Bushlarks, White-bellied Minivets, Brown Fish Owls, Dark-fronted Babblers, Yellow Wattled Lapwings, Small Sunbirds and other colorful species. Ungulates of the park include Gaurs, Sambar Deers, Chitals, Indian Muntjacs, Indian Spotted Chevrotains and Wild Boars. Rodents include Indian Giant Squirrels and Red Giant Flying Squirrels.

Later this evening, we focus on finding Jerdon’s Nightjar, and some of the owls like the Indian Scops and Oriental Scops Owls.  Other birds that one may see include Plum-headed and Malabar Parakeets, Loten’s, Small, Purple and Purple-rumped Sunbirds, Lesser Yellownapes, Greater and Black-rumped Flamebacks (stunning members of the woodpecker family), Crested Treeswifts, White-cheeked Barbets, Bonelli’s, Black and Rufous-bellied Eagles, Grey Junglefowls, and Yellow-eyed Babblers.

Later, after dark, on a short jungle drive on the outskirts of the park we try to see some mammals such as the Asiatic Elephants, Gaurs, Wild Boars, and with luck, even an elusive Leopard or Tiger as our grand finale.
Accommodations at Jungle Retreat Lodge (B,L,D)

Thurs., Jan. 13 Mudumalai / Bangalore
This morning leave early with enroute birding stops to drive to Bangalore. Our
lunch will be en route at Mysore and we reach our lodgings mid-afternoon. Enjoy this lovely hotel and gardens, as freshen up for our final dinner.
Accommodations at Royal Orchid Bangalore (B,L,D)
www.royalorchidhotels.com/royal-orchid-hotel-Bangalore/overview.asp

Fri., Jan. 14 Departure
This morning after a leisurely breakfast, you will be chauffeured to Bangalore (a short drive) International airport to connect our international flight for onward destination.
(B)

PLAN AHEAD! Protect yourself with Access America Travel Insurance. Offset your Carbon Footprint. Show us the receipt and we'll take 50% - up to $50.00 - of your carbon offset fee off your final payment! Cost of the Journey Cost of the journey is $4695.00, per person double occupancy. Single supplement is $895.00. This includes: airport transfers from Kochi, Kerala, India,departure from Bangalore, Karnataka, India, all accommodations and meals, transport by comfortable air conditioned vehicle (Air-con Tempo Traveler).and the services of your leaders and English speaking local guides . Please note that we share this departure with our partner company Sunrise Birding and by their policy the maximum is 10 guests for the tour. *price is subject to current exchange rate What's not included: Personal insurance, drinks and other items of a personal nature such as telephone and laundry services, camera fees wherever levied, any increase in taxes by the Government of India and porterage. Guide: Peg Abbott, with local guides. Travel Arrangements You may need to leave the USA on Dec. 31 in order to arrive by January 1.  Plan to arrive in Kochi, Kerala on Saturday, January 1 by TBD or before, and depart from Bangalore, Karnataka on Friday, January 14, 2011. If you arrive early or stay on after the trip in India, we can make recommendations for where to stay. Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery. Photo Credits: Chinnar watchtowner, Wikipedia; Frogmouths, Nick Bray; Gaur and Golden-fronted Leafbird, R. Kulkani; Indian Pitta, Emerald Dove and Nilgiri Tahr, Avijit Sarkhel; Scops Owl, Steve Bird; Jungle Retreat Lodge; Eldho's Birding Lodge; Nilgiri Tahr, Eravikulam National Park; Windemere Tea Estate; all other images by Peg Abbott.

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