FOUR CORNERS in the FALL
October 2005 - Trip Report

Sat., Oct. 15 Farmington / Aztec National Monument
Peg and several others in the group who had arrived the previous day were welcomed at Casa Blanca with a breakfast of fresh raspberries, pinon nuts, other fruits, and absolutely delicious corn tamales. At noon we left to pick up Lynn at the airport; poor Ty had missed his connection by a hair – he actually watched as the plane backed out of the gate!

The first drops of rain fell lightly as we drove east to Aztec National Monument, a Chacoan Great House community along the Animas River. The cottonwoods were turning, making for a glorious drive along the river. We were excited to learn that there was an Art Fair at the Monument today, with people from many of the Pueblo tribes coming to exhibit their jewelry, pottery, woodcarvings, and other crafts. As we pulled into the parking lot as the “shower” hit – a downpour that soaked both people and artwork, despite a frenzy to put up small tents and tarps. Luckily the museum was warm, so we took refuge among the exhibits.

A number of Pueblo people had been invited to give talks; to our delight, a woman whom we had met and were so impressed with four years ago at Bandolier had come to give a lecture. Cecilia shared her personal views of the connections between modern and past Pueblo cultures, showing photos from dances and daily life. Later, another park volunteer spoke to us in the Great Kiva, sharing his ideas on and fascination with the ancestral Pueblo (Anasazi) culture.

As the rain let up, we walked through the ruins, winding through several rooms, admiring the complex stonework, and sitting quietly in the fully restored kiva. We also enjoyed talking to the artists, who had now moved up under the porches for cover. A few of the group took home some treasures.

David Alford, owner of the Casa Blanca Inn (and nearby Blue Lake Ranch) graciously cooked a wonderful dinner for us – Chicken Mirabella. We enjoyed lively conversations over the flavors of garlic, capers, and prunes, which mingled together in a most pleasing way. The fresh salad from the garden was a real treat, as was the scrumptious dessert.

Sun., Oct. 16 Chaco National Historic Park
Another breakfast in the sunny, flower-filled dining room at Casa Blanca Inn – how spoiled we are getting! Today it was fresh strawberries, an egg dish with delicious salsa, and warm muffins – yum! Miriam loved watching the sunrise over such an open expanse of sky. We had worried that yesterday’s rains would make the winding dirt (clay) road to Chaco impassable; but instead we were treated to a beautiful day! Just shy of the park boundary we began to see Fajada Butte, a focal point of our visit.

Reaching the park at mid-morning, we checked in at the visitor’s center then headed right down to the two best-known ruins – Pueblo Bonito and neighboring Chetro Ketl. On the Petroglyph Trail, which links the two ruins, we wandered at leisure -- exploring, photographing, and taking it all in. The masonry is a marvel of craftsmanship; the changes in the Pueblo masonry styles over the years allowed us to pick out various additions to the complex village. The “D-shaped” layout of the village and the extensive plaza were captivating. One could envision daily life of the year 1000 – quite remarkable for all of us who learned that Columbus “discovered” America. On the way down, Peg had discussed many aspects of the current views on Chaco’s past culture; this and actually being there spurred lively conversation over our picnic lunch. What a joy to be eating lovely fresh food next to fall color in the cottonwoods and views of several ancient pueblos!!

In the afternoon many of our group set out on a hike, a 3.2-mile roundtrip walk to Pueblo Alto. This pueblo sits at the center of the Chacoan road system on a subtle, high point visible from Fajada Butte and from communities to the north. The weather cooperated beautifully: it was warm enough to be comfortable in T-shirts, and white puffy clouds gathered to augment scenery for our photos. As we left the picnic table, an Antelope Ground Squirrel was already enjoying our unintentional leavings. Globe Mallow and asters were still blooming, and Miriam found a Pygmy Blue butterfly on the asters. Lynn spotted a pair of Golden Eagle, ravens called and played overhead, and a Desert Cottontail seemed very pleased with its home in the ruins. Beth found a beautiful piece of Anasazi pottery, making the spot seem all the more significant. Actually others had found it before and had carefully placed it in a lovely spot for the next discoverers to admire.

Others of our group took a break and watched the film “Mystery of Chaco” back at the visitor’s center, then walked out for photos of Fajada Butte and an exploration of the Uva Vida ruin. We met at 5 p.m. for a last walk up to the largest great kiva unearthed to date, Casa Rinconada. In the quiet of the late afternoon, the sight of this impressive structure, and of Pueblo Bonito behind, was quite stunning. Sue snapped some landscape shots as the light show reached its peak, while Ernest drank in the vastness and the view.

Back at Casa Blanca, David and Judy were at work crafting another excellent dinner for us. We had wonderful cheeses and fresh tomatoes to accompany our cocktails, and then dined on pork tenderloin, oven-roasted potatoes, and green beans from the garden. We were happy to greet Ty, who had made it in from Albuquerque. Polly, using all her southern charm, immediately asked him if he’d “been in jail?”. We lingered long at the table discussing aspects of Chacoan life yet to be understood: the lack of a written language, the roles of hierarchy, and the accumulation of wealth.… We left them unanswered and headed off to a good night’s rest.

Mon., Oct. 17 Ute Mountain Tribal Park / Mesa Verde
Breakfast at Casa Blanca could get habit-forming – such a sense of peace and abundance to start the day! After a bit of confusion about our directions and some rather wild back road driving, we met our Ute guide, Gerald Ketchum, at the remote East Entrance of the Ute Mountain Tribal Park. We left our luggage vehicle (and the lunch, we later discovered, though Peg dashed back to retrieve it!) near a stock corral, where a flock of Dark-eyed Juncos gathered to feed on plentiful grass seed. Gerald explained the origins and lifestyle of the Ute people in detail and pointed out geographic features of their landscape. We learned the story of the Sleeping Ute Mountain and discussed the issues of land and money the Ute people face today. We had a delightful picnic under the shade of cottonwood boughs.

We then drove around the canyon to a trailhead that leads to many ruins, tucked in the mesa and remaining much as they were nearly 1000 years ago. A few decided not to try the ladder that led down the steep slope to explore; they waited with books and time to relax as the rest of us hiked along the cliff to various ruins.

The first was nestled between huge Douglas Firs that luckily had been spared by the recent fire. Pottery chards, animal bones, and tools were abundant, several piled up into treasure troves we could examine on walls of the ruins. Beth found a beautiful bird point pecked out of jasper, just lying on the ground. We visited several sites, finding painted kiva designs, a kiva with most of its roof beams and a standing deflection stone, and finally the highlight – the Eagle’s Nest Ruin, accessed by an impressive 38 ft. ladder.

We were delighted that we were allowed up to this ruin to crawl on hands and knees and actually feel what it was like to live in a cliff-top home. The view was tremendous, taking in the breadth of the entire canyon, and the overarching alcove provided shade and a sense of protection. A flock of Pinyon Jays came by, calling raucously as we crept down the ladder. We were quiet on our walk back amid flaming Quaking Aspen and Gambel’s Oak – needing time to take it all in.

Leaving Gerald near a small pond that still held a family of Mallards, we headed back to the highway -- reluctantly passing flocks of White-crowned Sparrow, Horned Lark, and a few Western Meadowlarks, as we still had some distance to go to make it to Mesa Verde by evening. Miriam was delighted with sightings of Black-billed Magpie, and Polly loved the wildflowers still in bloom.

We navigated the road up the steep mesa as the sunset colors intensified, arriving in time to admire two Mule Deer that Margaret spotted, grazing in the meadow. After settling in to our rooms we gathered at the delightful restaurant, the Metate, which offered cozy Southwestern décor and a very creative menu. What a day!

Tues., Oct. 18 Mesa Verde / Spruce Tree Ruin / Cliff Palace
We woke to a painted sky; the perfect background for a Red-tailed Hawk out early hunting for rabbits. The view from our balconies extended for miles, but today held a dramatic cloud show. We planned to spend the whole day Mesa Verde National Park, walking amid the various ruins.

The Gambel’s Oaks were at the height of their color. Along the trail to a group of ruins called Far View, Ernest heard Wild Turkey, and we all got good looks at Mountain and Western Bluebirds, Brown Creeper, Townsend’s Solitaire, and Western Scrub Jay. Ty and Peg ran back to the hotel and were treated to the sight of several Mule Deer, including a rather magnificent buck. The does stayed deep in cover, peeking out but never moving a muscle. Further along the road, after viewing an ancient reservoir and tower at Far View, we spotted a Coyote on the road, then were startled as a rabbit came running full tilt as if to chase off the Coyote! A second Coyote in hot pursuit clarified that episode.

We reached the Spruce Tree Ruin area by mid-morning, taking the time to see the incredible collection of artifacts in the museum: pottery, cornhusks and cobs, baskets, sandals, ropes, and more. The beautiful murals and architecture were also notable, showing off some really fine work from the days of the CCC crews. Juniper Titmouse and Mountain Chickadee gave us a good show as we gathered at the trailhead. Lynn spotted a Virginia Creeper vine just loaded with berries, which kept a flock of bluebirds busy for much of the morning.

The trail down into the canyon was lovely – lined with Creeping Mahonia, Serviceberry, and a lot of Gambel’s Oak, all in bright fall hues. We got glimpses of the ruins and then a chance to wander about the plaza and several of the rooms. An excellent naturalist from the park, joined by an archaeologist photographing the masonry, patiently answered our many questions – fascinating!. One pointed out some of the more subtle features of the site to us, including painted symbols that remained on the 800-year-old plaster, and beams that had been cored for dating. Our timing for lunch was serendipitous: we got in the cafeteria line just ahead of two large bus groups. You never saw so many Navajo Tacos served in such short time in your life!

After lunch some members of the group enjoyed a couple hours of free time to hike, go back to the museum, or to just sit on the porch and take it all in. Others returned to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon. At 3 p.m. we embarked on a walk through the Cliff Palace Ruins. The park ranger who served as our guide was quite knowledgeable about both past and present Pueblo life, weaving the two together in a most enlightening way. Sue noted several of the ranger’s recommendations on local books recommendations and we all took lots of photos. Joan spotted inquisitive Rock Squirrel and Cliff Chipmunk scurrying around the ruins; Ed pointed out a pair of Common Raven hassling an adult Red-tailed Hawk, which didn’t seem to care. The combination of nature and history was really exquisite!

As we returned up to the rim it started to rain. We opted not to take the planned hike out to a view of Balcony House, but went around the loop to see the highlights of Square Tower, Sun Temple, other villages of the mesa, and the lovely sandstone canyons. Geology was certainly good to these early people, who found shelter and sustenance in abundance – at least for several centuries.

Near our lodge we watched as a Red-tailed Hawk dropped half of its rabbit on the road, just too heavy a load. It circled back, hesitant to retrieve it with cars passing by; we waited a bit but then left so as not to discourage it. We enjoyed another excellent dinner in the spacious dining room of the lodge and listened to the sounds of a good soaking rain.

Wed., Oct. 19 Four Corners Monument / Hovenweap / Goosenecks State Park
We woke to overcast skies and, after breakfast, drove through a thick mist to descend the switchback road out of Mesa Verde. Miriam exclaimed how the mist created a different sort of beauty, one very intimate and engaging in its own way. It certainly enhanced the mosaic of color provided by Gambel Oaks and other shrubs, and the brilliance of the cottonwoods in the lower valley river corridor.

We stopped at a couple of watering holes in the Cortez area searching for birds, and were rewarded with sights of Western Grebe (at a distance), Lesser Scaup, Ring-necked Duck, Canada Geese, and many American Coot. The cottonwood trees appeared as if on fire – we certainly hit the peak of color! At the local grocery, Polly, Peg and Lynn stocked up on large bags of local Pinto and Anasazi beans, and all enjoyed a visit to the Ute Mountain Pottery Center, as we knew little of their work and were most impressed.

The Four Corners Monument was mainly a fun photo stop and a chance to buy jewelry and handicrafts direct from the Navajo people. Because the season was coming to an end and the rains hinted at impending snow, we got some good prices and also leisurely conversation – a nice chance just to visit with the locals. They said that roads were passable, so soon we were on our way for a picnic lunch and hike at Hovenweap National Monument.

This isolated site exudes a haunting beauty, enhanced by the excellent interpretation. A super hiking trail leads to major sites in a way that lets you move through them, experiencing the views, orientation, and utility of the site. It was an excellent contrast to what we had already seen at Mesa Verde and neighboring Ute. Ernest pondered the lonely setting, sparking an excellent conversation. Again the changing color of vegetation heightened the beauty of the place. We left reluctantly at 3 p.m., with more areas to explore on our way.

We stopped in Bluff for coffee and a chance to visit the Twin Bluffs Trading Post, an excellent place to browse and, more importantly, learn about the art of the Navajo and other local peoples. Between Bluff and Monument Valley the geology is astounding: the folds of Comb Ridge and the Lime Ridge Anticline, the wild entrenched meanders of Goosenecks State Park, and finally the freestanding buttes and mesas. Comb Ridge was a kaleidoscope of color and texture. At Goosenecks, the views of the banded sediments deeply incised by the San Juan River provoked several loud oohs and aahs, as well as an attempt to understand the workings of life in the Pennsylvanian Era, when the sediments were laid down.

A Rock Wren entertained us with song, perching cooperatively on a rock by the outhouse and then flying almost to our feet in the parking lot. Beth and Peg faced a real challenge driving into the setting sun as we headed into Monument Valley. We pulled off the road just in time to capture the brilliant orange light that illuminates these bold buttes and mesas for a brief time each day at dusk. As the day ended, we settled into our accommodations at Goulding’s Lodge in the heart of Monument Valley.

Thurs., Oct. 20 Monument Valley
Today proved to be a magical, venturing far into the alluring lands of Monument and the adjacent Mystery Valley. We met Anna, our Navajo guide, at 8:30; her warmth and sense of humor were immediately evident. She handled our open-air, four-wheel drive vehicle like a seasoned ranch hand, talking on the microphone while navigating muddy roads and narrow passageways. She shared her homeland with us through stories and insights, and gave us the opportunity to wander.

We walked up a canyon listening as the amazing silence was broken only by the rolling call of ravens and the scolding and begging of a family of Canyon Wren. We found a Juniper Titmouse, a few last wildflowers in bloom, gnarled pinyon and juniper, petroglyphs, pictographs, and a number of Anasazi Ruins. During the scenic drive Anna pointed out steps and handholds where ancient peoples traversed steep cliffs. We found Anasazi pottery chards of many colors and textures, scraping tools, bird points – all intermingled with the sheep corrals and other signs of everyday life for the current Navajos. We took reams of photos, of arches, colorful vegetation, lizards, red rock, each other.

At lunch the smell of pinyon and juniper lured us in, and we joked as we fed on “garden burgers,” a communication mix-up from our vegetarian request. Soon we were ready to explore the more traveled route through Monument Valley proper, still a wonderland of scenic vistas that holds glimpses into the life other cultures past and present.

After such a full and rewarding day, we returned to the lodge late in the afternoon for some free time. Joan and Margaret fit in a swim in the lodge’s pool, several visited the museum, and four went back to the vista area by the visitor’s center to take some sunset photos. The view from our balconies and from the lodge’s dining room made for a perfect end to the day.

Fri., Oct. 21 Horseback and hiking / Navajo National Monument / Canyon de Chelly
This was a more leisurely morning -- some chose to relax at the hotel and visit the museum in detail, while others went for a hike or a horseback ride back in Monument Valley. Hikers walked around one of the mittens, and it was wonderful to be out IN the valley to sense the scale of these charismatic buttes. Mounting up near Ford Point, the riders made a two-hour circuit of beautiful country – complete with arches, petroglyphs, water reflecting the buttes, and the chance to trot and canter a bit. We wound through thin passes between red rock cliffs and thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience.

Then it was on to Navajo National Monument, where we walked about half a mile out to the viewpoint for Betatakin Ruin – one of the most pristine remaining in the entire Four Corners Area. Margaret said – “here there are roofs, and ladders, grinding stones….” The wind was cold as we ate our picnic under the pines, but as we walked, the sun regained its warmth and we lingered to savor that a bit.

The drive to Canyon de Chelly is spectacular on its own, passing several dramatic volcanic necks (some 200 feet or higher), and some great geology all around. We stopped at a trading post that provided goods for artists – Polly got the shopping prize once again! We arrived at Thunderbird Lodge in time for sunset and a simple dinner in their cafeteria. Beth commented on being surrounded by Navajo rugs while we ate – indeed they covered every inch of available wall space, creating quite an effect! Peg showed her slides from the summer Arctic trip to those still awake at nightfall.

Sat., Oct. 22 Canyon de Chelly
Larry, our Navajo guide, greeted us with a truck supplied with blankets – as we met the cold wind driving up canyon we soon knew why and bundled up. Peg had worked with him before; after they compared notes Larry radioed in for “the Big Guy.” What fun – a 1952 Korean War troop carrier! Now we could really explore the backcountry!

We spent the entire morning up Canyon del Muerto, listening to Larry’s stories about growing up, his family, what it meant to live there, and Navajo history. He showed us panel after panel of amazing rock art, many alcoves filled with ruins, and a lot of scenic beauty. At one of the more popular ruins Navajo artists were selling their wares at tables; it was wonderful to both purchase directly from the artists and to learn a bit about their crafts and lives.

The cottonwoods and various shrubs blazed with color. We found it hard to leave this entrancing area, and arrived back at Thunderbird Cafe for a late lunch. We had time for only a short visit to the historic Hubbell Trading Post, but it was well worth it. Lynn searched (in vain, alas) for Lewis’ Woodpecker, spotted by the ranger just a few days before. Joan and Margaret walked down to the river, while the rest of us toured the original Hubbell home. Art and artifacts lined the walls and ceilings – the collection is truly astounding.

Back at Canyon de Chelly, Lynn and Beth took off for another horseback ride, while the rest of us drove out to the South Rim to see a few of the scenic view points and to stretch our legs on part of the White House Ruins trail. Common Ravens called overhead, Ed spotted a couple Mountain Bluebirds, and we all enjoyed the magic of sunset light on the canyon. Our final dinner was at the neighboring Holiday Inn, where we all shared camaraderie and thoughts on the various places we had hiked and explored.

Sun., Oct. 23 Crossing the Chuska Mountains / Return to Farmington
We left just after breakfast, needing an early start so people could make their flights. Our route was along the North Rim of Canyon de Chelly, then up and over the Chuska Mountains on scenic road just recently paved. A “road closed” sign gave us a bit of a fright -- but Peg had checked with rangers, and we’d seen cars coming down, so we sallied forth with no problem.

The views of Monument Valley were stupendous. In the Chuskas, we could see the rock underlying other sediments, then breaking out into mesas, and finally into buttes. As Peg explained the geologic processes, Beth exclaimed on the radio, “sometimes I really GET it!” Coming over the mountains, we had super looks at the actual Shiprock and then its namesake town before arriving in Farmington with time to spare. We will long remember this great trip, great group, and absolutely amazing country.

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