Alaska
June 2004 - Trip Report

Pre-trip Extension to Nome - June 1-6, 2004
Tues., June 1 Arrival in Nome
Three of the foursome on this trip arrived early, meeting up in Anchorage for the flight over to Nome. Peg’s flight went right up the coast, and the pilot maneuvered to present great views of the mighty peaks and glaciers of the Wrangell St. Elias area. Near Anchorage we could see the vast mosaic of peaks of the Chugach Mountains and much of Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm. Boarding the plane to Nome, Peg heard her name called out: as luck would have it, the steward was an old, very dear friend from Wyoming days at Audubon Camp in the West! What a small world, on a flight to NOME!

It was clear in Nome -- not only clear, but sunny and 50°F! Flowers were starting to bloom on the tundra and birds were active everywhere. We got settled into our great little two-bedroom apartments (kitchen, living room, washer/dryer – wow!) and did a short loop around town to search for birds. Our first pond held a beautiful pair of Red-throated Loon that swam, called, and showed off their brick-colored throats and other finery. They were joined by several pair of Red-necked Phalarope -- a species in which the females exhibit the brighter plumage instead of the males. Bright and bold patterned Lapland Longspur were the most common songbird on the tundra; everywhere they were hurling themselves skyward to flutter down in song.

The energy of this spring evening was magical, as was the intensity of the Arctic light. At 8:00 p.m. it was still very bright; the picturesque, abandoned gold dredge east of town was reflected in an adjacent pond. Two Common Ravens occupied the rusting crane next door, which was apparently a prized nesting location. One of the pair was sunk deep in the large stick nest – likely created from driftwood as no other sticks are available here – no wonder they guard it fiercely! A pair of Yellow Wagtail also was active in shrubs behind the dredge, their sun-bright bellies the signature of this Arctic species.

We found our first Long-tailed Jaeger guarding territory on a small tundra hillock. Then its mate flew in and seemed to pick up items on the road, providing a great opportunity to view this gorgeous, predatory bird through the scope. In the distance Peg spotted a Willow Ptarmigan posing on a ridge. That was the grand finale as both Peg and Jo, having started their journey from the Lower 48 at dawn, were struggling to keep their eyes open. Randi, used to traveling far from her Alaska home to get anywhere, said, “I can’t believe I’m the one with energy”.

Wed., June 2 Nome and Vicinity / Safety Sound
After fixing bacon and eggs in our own little home, we headed east for the morning, driving toward the Nome River Bridge and a view of the river’s mouth. Peg first checked spots along the harbor that had previously held White Wagtail and once a Spectacled Eider, but with all the spring activity of fisherman and the barge they were empty.

At the “loon pond” we encountered a Red Fox, which was tolerant enough of us for Peg to get some photos. He was handsome, with dark fur leggings and a huge russet tail. Arctic Terns did not appreciate his presence, and we could track him by their bombing activities. We found Long-tailed Duck (formerly called Oldsquaw), Pintail, Northern Shoveler, and Gadwall all in the ponds, and a continuous supply of Red-necked Phalarope. Western and Semi-palmated Sandpipers were feeding along the shorelines, calling and displaying; we saw a few Dunlin and some Semi-palmated Plover as well.

On mudflats strung like pearls at the river’s outlet, we spent time identifying gulls (Glaucous, Glaucous-winged, Herring, and Mew) and watching Red-breasted Merganser, Red-throated Loon, a Bar-tailed Godwit and a distant pair of Tundra Swan. Randi spotted a Beaver, which swam right through a group of four loons. Many Arctic Ground Squirrels were active, a likely food source for the gorgeous and very alert Short-eared Owl we spotted on the hunt. He perched several times and seemed to look right through us. As Jo said, “there is something very special about owls.”

Back in town we filled ourselves with blueberry milkshakes, burgers, and choices from the salad bar at Fat Freddie’s, a dining institution on Nome’s waterfront. Photos of Iditarod dogs and their winning, grinning owners decorate the walls; the clientele is local, with a few odd birders mixed in for contrast. Nancy’s plane was late due to foggy weather north in Kotezbue, so she was glad to see Peg at the airport to greet her. Driving around to examine the layout of the town, Peg and Nancy encountered a first – a reindeer in the back of a pickup with a pink collar, a box of lettuce, and a springer spaniel companion who rode in the cab. We just had to meet the owner of ‘Velvet’ and hear her story (she was an orphan at a local reindeer farm, a northern variation of bum lamb. Two locals stopped by to watch us being tourists, and we had a good visit about the renewed activity at the rock quarry, the barge coming in, and other news of Nome, Spring 2004.

Around 3:30 we reconvened to drive out to Safety Sound and Solomon. The weather was still perfect, with views from the sea wall excellent for spotting loons, scoters, and eiders. The expansive landscape driving east was captivating in late afternoon light, and we stopped again and again to watch loons, ducks, Sandhill Cranes, and more. This was the mildest spring in many years, and many of the birds had flown inland to nesting ponds as soon as they had thawed. While the concentration of birds was lower than usually encountered in Nome at this time, there were a good number of species. A real treat was a pair of Surf Scoter, many Common Eider, and a quick look at a spectacular male Spectacled Eider.

We stopped at the Roadhouse in Safety Lagoon for a beer and some snacks. It was fun to visit, compare notes on weather, the fishing camps, and the locals’ impressions of birders. We continued on to the Bonanza Bridge and the rusting ruins of Nome’s famous “train to nowhere.” Phalaropes swirled about in the tundra ponds, Lapland Longspurs sang robustly while whirring wings in flight displays, and several loons called to keep contact. After getting some great scope views of a pair of Arctic Loons, we decided it was time to call it a day. Great adventures lay ahead, and in this land of midnight sun one could go on forever!

Thurs., June 3 Kougarok Road / K Mountains / Pilgrim Hot Springs
After Jo and Peg cooked breakfast we were ready to go at 8:00 a.m. Our plan was not to return until about 8:00 p.m. so that we could thoroughly explore the Kougarok Road and Pilgrim Hot Springs. We had already decided not to leave early to try for the Bristle-thighed Curlew, as some were not up for the rather strenuous trudge over the tundra. This set a more leisurely tone for the day and we enjoyed it thoroughly.

We birded around the gold dredge, checking on the ravens’ nesting progress. Long-tailed Duck were in the ponds nearby – what an elegant pair. Jaegers, mostly Long-tailed, seemed to be everywhere, attending their particular mounds. The Arctic Azaleas grew thick around the ponds, casting pink over the whole terrain -- quite lovely! Abundant Wooly Lousewort stood above them with their hearty magenta stems, like banners, able to withstand the wind. At the dump we glanced over the gulls (the usual gang) and marveled at the number of ravens. On a small green cottage one raven pair had set up housekeeping by stuffing a huge amount of sticks into the eave. How the human inhabitants ever slept we don’t know!

We birded Banner Creek while activity was high. The air was filled with song, and it was easy to find the performers: Gray-cheeked Thrush, Orange-crowned Warbler, and a persistent Northern Waterthrush blended tunes with the more common White-crowned and Golden-crowned Warblers. Tree Swallows buzzed about the lake with Arctic Terns, and a pair of Scaup claimed the small pond. We enjoyed looking at the various houses and shacks, each with creative touches such as caribou antlers, gnarly driftwood posts, and interesting paint choices. Randi entertained us with tales of working for the Alaska census and what she’s encountered over the years. In a thick patch of willow Peg spotted a blond-toned moose – an aging cow, but for now, no sign of a calf.

We continued on, and were happy to find a female Golden Eagle at home in the massive eyrie that has weathered many decades high on the orange lichen-spotted cliffs. She seemed so regal in the scope as the sun darted off her golden nape. An Arctic Ground Squirrel chirped near our feet – he’d better stay alert! We stopped and listened repeatedly through the willows, hoping to hear the first arriving Arctic Warblers; down the road we stopped to listen for the Bluethroat. A male Gyrfalcon was also at home on its eyrie, attending the nest site from an adjacent cliff. Randi remarked that he blended in perfectly with his surroundings. We stopped here for lunch -- hoping to catch a nest exchange or feeding bout – and were able to watch him preen and look around, his size quite evident even from a distance. Peg told the Gyrfalcon story from the marvelous book, The Wind Masters, by Pete Dunne.

After lunch we moved on, getting a quick look at a Wandering Tattler, a distant view of a Rough-legged Hawk, and continued views of the Arctic cast of songbirds, but no Bluethroat or Arctic Warbler. Many of their usual haunts were still quite snowy, so we decided we’d return there later in the week and just go on to enjoy the incredible mountain scenery.

The streams were rushing as we walked towards the Grand Central Bridge. Three pair of Harlequin Duck were here, what a treat! A Semi-palmated Plover was displaying, as were Lesser Yellowlegs (one) and a Spotted Sandpiper.

Fri., June 4 Anvil Mountain / Bluestone Creek / Teller
Today Peg had made arrangements for a local guide, Richard, to be with us for the full day. He shared a wealth of information about Nome in a personal and heartfelt manner. We laughed a lot, learned a lot, and he and Jo compared notes on theatre and music (from his previous New York life) -- so we even had a song! We wanted to go out the Teller Road to see the new blooming wildflowers, more amazing birds, and a bit of Native life in the village. But first, we ventured up the steep road to Anvil Mountain, for an overview and a sense of place. There, we spent a delightful hour watching Musk Ox: first a snorting, huge male and then a whole herd of females, yearlings, and very new calves. The male was thrashing bushes, spreading his scent mark and feeding. Females, feeding intently, lined up on a ridge, silhouetted against what appeared to be half the world. The babies played on this calm and warm Arctic day. The Musk Ox were shedding; their incredibly soft inner hair (quiveat) decorated the Arctic birch and willow like icicles on a Christmas tree.

Once again we had beautiful sun, a few clouds to accent the views, and temperatures over 50 degrees! Jo spotted a pair of American Golden Plover, standing elegantly on the lichen-covered rock surrounded by blooming Arctic Azaleas. Richard told us a lot about Nome’s early turn of the century gold rush and the impending start of a new gold operation up Glacier Creek that will provide 300 jobs. (Richard is the president of the Chamber of Commerce as well as head of the school system, director of community theatre, star of a weekly television show, self-appointed Arctic trash collector while out in the field and more!) We looked over Norton Sound, off to Sledge Island, Cape Nome and the snow covered Kigluaik Mountains. Behind us, Musk Ox browsed on tundra plants; before us stood Nome, with its mix of multi-hued buildings huddled next to the sea.

We made a quick inspection of a Gyrfalcon area just outside of town before continuing to the Penny River, where an American Dipper and several interesting birds had been reported from the day before. As we inspected the tall willows a local went by and warned Richard that he had seen three Grizzly Bear in those trees the night before. They were probably in the area to catch the start of the salmon runs. So we kept at it, but with greater awareness. Richard said he had not seen a bear very often in the last two years; they are not plentiful here, but do occur.

We enjoyed great views of Northern Waterthrush, Gray-cheeked Thrush, the massive Alaska race of Fox Sparrow, and several warblers -- but no sign yet of the Arctic Warbler, due in any day. Jo remarked on how different the scenery was on this route – more like Iceland in her mind, more expansive and austere. The country seemed massive; the many jaegers hunting the terrain darted about like dragonflies over a pond.

We stopped for lunch by the Bluestone Creek Bridge, spreading chicken, salad, and other goodies over the river gravel on Peg’s ever-present tablecloth. We forgot the bag with silverware and plates; but Nancy came to the rescue, creating some with to-go containers, jar lids, and you name it. She smiled in satisfaction dining in such an elegant place. We talked of Nome and its joys and challenges, of young people growing up here, of life in the more remote villages. Peg at last heard the Bluethroat and she was off to the nearby ridge, soon calling the others to come and bring the scope.

What ensued was a highlight of the journey so far: along a lovely meander of the creek tucked under a steep sided mountain, this small, Old World species sang his little heart out and put on quite a display. Like many open country birds he performs flight displays, sings in mid-air, then finds a perch to survey the world, singing a different set of notes to mark his place in a world with few evident boundaries. This bird’s midnight blue throat, framed in rust and amber, is a sight to behold. As we watched Randi spotted a Red Fox as it came out on the gravel bar. For the next 15 minutes or so he scent marked, scratched the dirt, dug a bit, and covered a lot of terrain just across the creek. In one scope view you could get the fox and the Bluethroat- wow!

Richard found a new flower for us, the diminutive little “Weasel Snout,” blooming alongside catkins of Arctic Willow that caught the strong and precious summer sun. Driving on, we had delightful looks at a Rock Ptarmigan that walked out in the road, showing off his still-white pantaloons. He was still in the process of shifting from winter to summer plumage. In a few miles we spotted another, very much at home in this high rock realm. The view of Teller, tucked on the natural arc of a sandspit in the sea, was quite stunning. It was easy to imagine how incredible the winter storms must be; but this day was warm and sunny, and the locals were out in boats, playing on the beach, and fishing. Richard had arranged a visit for us with friends Norbert and Frosty. We enjoyed seeing the inside of one of the HUD homes, made friendly by its years of photos and treasures. Norbert wanted to talk of his true home, Mary’s Igloo. He showed us a video of this treasured spot, but he could only remember it -- he has been blind since the age of five. He said he remembers the look of the mountains, the ptarmigan and other birds, and the trees. He was a vibrant spirit, and we hated to leave!

With Frosty leading the way, we went to some locations where White Wagtail had been spotted the day before, hoping to catch a glimpse. But on this sunny day, town was bustling, so the birds were shy or absent. Soon it was time to go, and while we had seen Northern Pipit and White-rumped Sandpiper, the wagtail would remain elusive.

We were quiet en route home, drinking in the beauty of the landscape and the quality of Arctic light. Several went for the Friday night buffet at Fat Freddie’s to end this wonderful day.

Sat., June 5 In Search of the Arctic Warbler / Evening on Safety Sound
We started in a new place this morning, the Nome Harbor jetty, where we found a lone Kittlitz’s Murrelet, lots of Pelagic Cormorants, Common Murres, and a few flying and distant Tufted Puffin. The weather was almost too good: we were hot when in the sun, and animals were not very active. Wanting a day to explore the town, Nancy set out and met a delightful woman, the editor of “The Nome Nugget,” as well as several friendly cats she could spoil with treats.

The rest of us wanted to try for the Arctic Warbler. According to Lanna Harris, Nome’s birding expert, this species arrives fairly late; June 5 is the earliest date of its arrival in Nome on record. Our search in four likely sites revealed singing Orange-crowns, but no Arctic Warblers.

The Penny River was our first stop, where gorgeous scenery, an array of Nome songbirds, and three huge male Musk Ox on the ridge held our attention. While on the Dexter cutoff road to Kougarok, we stopped to watch two Harlequin Ducks float down the river and listen to the serenades of Northern Waterthrush and Gray-cheeked Thrush. It was warm enough that Jo considered a swim in the clear blue waters. Oh for a canoe today!

Revisiting the Gyrfalcon site, we had great views of the male, preening and ever watchful of his nest and mate. A Wandering Tattler flew off the creek, and we got good looks at it walking along the cut edge of a bank. Our Moose was across the road but still in the vicinity -- what a mess its coat was while shedding! Red-breasted Mergansers were quite common here now and ready to settle on nest sites.

We went back for lunch and to take a break, then headed out to Safety Sound for the afternoon. Little did we suspect that all of Nome would venture out this way at the same time. It was a sunny Saturday, so all the owners of the little fishing cottages – which were so quiet the other day -- were either home or getting there quickly. We dodged enormous dust clouds again and again, ugh! We took refuge on the beach, watching scoters, Long-tailed Duck, lots of Common Eider pairs, and some Pelagic Cormorants. We followed the progress of a queer wind-swept storm that brewed on the horizon like a desert dust storm and then dissipated.

Near Mile 17 we looked for the elusive Red-necked Stint. There were LOTS of peeps, mostly Semipalmated Sandpiper and some very bright Western Sandpipers. Many were roosting in the grass; others fed along the narrow margins of the cove. Our search for the stint seemed a bit hopeless and our energies were fading; then, BINGO, Peg got her scope on one. What a beauty – a real treat. We worked the ponds and islands of the sound after that, seeing more of the resident birds, but none of the real coups such as the Emperor Goose or Sabine’s Gull.

We had seen so many great species, we decided to mellow out, try for the Red Phalarope (no luck), and enjoy our picnic at the Safety Roadhouse with a cold beer. We enjoyed visiting with the locals there before the drive home at a pretty time of day. It was nearly 70º F mid day in Nome – unheard of this early in June!

Sun., June 6 Departure for Fairbanks for the Main AK Journey
Three of us – Nancy, Jo, and Peg – departed for Fairbanks to start the main part of the Alaska journey, while Randi headed home to Anchorage. It was wonderful to think that the main trip hadn’t even started yet, and already we had seen so many enchanting Alaska birds and mammals!

Main Trip - June 6-14, 2004
Sun., June 6 Arrival in Fairbanks / Alaska Bird Observatory / Welcome Dinner
Our small group met in Fairbanks at 4:00 p.m. Peg, Jo, and Nancy were coming in from Nome; Anne and John, and Les and Nancy had arrived the previous day. Robert and Suzie were held up, but were able to meet us part way through director of the Alaska Bird Observatory Andrea Swigley’s, excellent presentation on the significance of Alaska’s birds. She discussed the 7,000-mile migration of the Bar-tailed Godwit, the millions of shorebirds that spend the summer here, and the marvelous adaptations of tiny redpolls and chickadees that make it through a near-Arctic winter. Our hotel in Fairbanks donates space for the Alaska Bird Observatory offices – a great partnership that our visit helps to support.

June in Fairbanks is mosquito season. We took on the challenge, putting on repellents to brave a look at the Sandhill Cranes at Creamer’s Dairy Field next door. They were worth it: mainly non-breeders, they fed intently on invertebrate treats they pulled up from the wet meadow. One displayed its bustle; another gave short calls. We also found quite a few flowers in bloom, including Nangoon berry, one of the most delicious edible berries of the region.

For dinner we went to the salmon bake at the Ester Gold Camp. It was a bit touristy, but quick (good on a travel day) and with really excellent food: salmon, halibut, roast beef, and more. We were joined by two of Peg’s biologist friends who entertained us with tales of photographing Boreal and Short-eared Owls over the past several weeks. We toasted our adventures with some wine and went over our plans for the next day. Some stayed on to attend a local artist’s gallery showing. Anne, who studies textiles, was drawn by this exhibit, from a local woman who integrates natural textures such as paper wasp and bird nests into her work. It was a lovely warm evening -- almost too warm – it’s unusual to be able to wear T-shirts in Alaska!

Mon., June 7 Travel to, and through Denali National Park
As Nancy Steffens had already reported, the hotel breakfast was fine: a nice buffet with Eggs Benedict and more. We ate early to be at the train; promptly at 8:15 the engine roared and we set off for Denali. This four-hour trip threaded through boreal forest dotted with tundra ponds. Nancy was our spotter – she soon found a Beaver, a family of Swans, and then a Moose! Beavers here build elaborate lodges and spend a good deal of time on their dams, which have to survive the breakup of ice in the spring.

Soon we were greeting Simon and Brian, our naturalists from North Face Lodge and Camp Denali, who would take us back through the spectacular, 90-mile dirt road that bisects Denali National Park. Everyone on the bus quickly got into spotting wildlife. A small group of Caribou lazing about in the river bottom was our first sighting; there were both males and females, and one male had a spectacular paddle. Peg spotted a group of Dall Sheep, high on the ridge at the point where green grass gives way to slopes too steep to host vegetation. We found several other groups, one with a very small baby.

We broke up the long drive with a stop to explore and have a picnic dinner at the historic East Fork Cabin -- perhaps most famous as a base for the important biological work of Adolph Murie when he described the life histories and predator/prey interactions of Dall Sheep, Caribou, Grizzlies, and Gray Wolf. While Simon and Brian assembled the fine Alaska-style picnic of smoked salmon and halibut, dried wild berries, brie and cheddar cheese, and hot drinks, Peg and Jo searched the bushes for songbirds.

Orange-crowned and Wilson’s Warblers sang and put on a great show. But the most obvious point of interest was the heavy damage to the willows by Snowshoe Hare. Every twig at a certain height had been stripped of its vital cambium. While taking photos, Peg noticed a strange object on the hillside – a winterkill perhaps, but of what? She asked the others to look at it, but none could decide. The texture of hair was all wrong for Caribou – part of a bear hide perhaps?

It puzzled her enough to get the scope out of the bus – only to find that it was not a carcass, but a living, breathing, very sleepy LYNX! This was Peg’s first ever sighting to be exact and she was thrilled! “Jo, Simon, come here…!” Soon we were telling the whole group to leave their delicious plates and catch a look. In the end there was no hurry – the lynx stayed the entire hour we were there, stretching a bit, flicking a paw at flies, raising its head to look at a pestering Magpie. It was curled up in a depression, likely a bed it had used for most of the winter. Fat and happy on a diet of Snowshoe Hare – these were the good years of its life. What a privilege it was to see it, soon followed by another.

Leaving the East Fork site, we ran into a mother Grizzly with three rambunctious cubs born this year. One had a particularly fine white collar – it seemed to instigate much of the romping, chewing, wrestling, and playing. We stopped the bus in a safe place, shut down the engine, and just watched to our hearts content. Cameras were pointed at this rare chance to watch a family of Grizzlies that were unafraid of man.

The mother was on a far slope a good distance across a creek, but with binoculars you could see all the antics and facial expressions in detail. White Collar got himself up a much-too-limber willow tree that swayed with his weight, causing some alarm. Soon that cub was joined by sibling; it was too much for the limb, and both crashed down to the ground. We lost sight of them as another tour bus rounded the bend – how lucky we had been to be at this exact time and place! Jo had a huge grin on her face as she said, “my first Grizzlies!”

In the much shorter tundra near Highway Pass we spotted another bear, a blond Toklat with one, even younger cub. This cub jetted around in a 20-meter circle around mom, the center of its world. Despite the magnificent scale of the surrounding scenery, this blond bear stood out, somehow completing the view for all of us.

At Polychrome Pass we took lots of scenic shots and admired the adorable but tough Arctic Ground Squirrels. Just beyond the pass we found that a dramatic, long-used Eyre was once again in service. Peg spotted the pearl-gray Gyrfalcon perched below; as we stopped it took flight and glided into the stick nest surrounded by the rich orange and yellow lichen. John felt this whole scene to be one of the most captivating of the journey so far. We saw a few more groups of Caribou and Dall Sheep and a hint of the glorious blooms that would carpet our upcoming hikes.

Soon, we were traveling down in elevation to wetter, shrubbier tundra, catching glimpses of waterfowl we’d return to scope on another day. At North Face Lodge Pete and Claudia Martin and the staff greeted us with cake, tea, and coffee, as well as the information we needed to settle in and some hints of plans for the following day.

Tues., June 8 North Face Lodge / Tundra Ecology
As we ate a delicious breakfast in the cozy dining room of North Face Lodge, a light mist was falling but the day promised to brighten. After Claudia outlined our options for the day, and our group split between the Naturalist Foray with Pete and some moderate hiking with Simon.

The destination of our foray was the far end of Wonder Lake, but we stopped first near the canoe dock to get a better look at White-winged Scoter and Greater Scaup. So many tundra flowers were poking their heads out that we followed a bit of a path up a blueberry-covered knoll; at the top we had grand views of Wonder Lake and the series of ridges that frame both sides of the valley. Small spruce trees rose from mats of tundra shrubs below us like candles on a cake, and it was a delight to see a male Northern Harrier fly gracefully below us.

Pete went back for the car and we continued on, lured by activity on the small beaver pond behind the ranger station. Venturing out to a point with our scopes, we made a real find: a pair of White-fronted geese amid the Green-winged Teal, Pintail, and Mallard. We worked at pinpointing each species and studying it in detail. At the same spot, we marveled at the Arctic Tern’s powerful flight and the strange calls of a courting Lesser Yellowlegs and a lone Bonaparte’s Gull.

Continuing down the road to the Wonder Lake Campground, we enjoyed a quick flyover by a noisy flock of Bohemian Waxwing. Peg found a very tame Say’s Phoebe making a nest on a light of one of the small buildings. A real surprise was a Lesser Yellowlegs, normally a wading bird of the ponds and mudflats, landing in the top of a tree. From our vantage point, we could see a Common Loon, almost totally hidden in deep grass on a safe peninsula that held her nest. The male was feeding in the water nearby – we couldn’t pull Jo from the scope!

Simon’s group left the road completely to experience the beauty and the complexity of the tundra. With a ski pole he showed the depth to permafrost. He carefully found many of the unique plants and described their myriad adaptations to the challenges of the tundra. This group also passed by Ranger Pond, where the Pintail had emerged with day-old chicks.

We all gathered for happy hour in the library, trading tales of our day, then enjoyed a scrumptious dinner complete with fresh greens from the garden. In the evening, Ann showed beautiful slides as she discussed the adaptations of tundra plants and wildflowers to these extreme environments.

Wed., June 9 Hikes and Forays to the High Country, Denali National Park
We awoke to rain, so much that we felt socked in, but still elected to hike. Four of the group went with Pete on a moderate hike, three went up Marmot Valley with another North Face guide, Luke, and others went on a Naturalist Foray with a fourth guide, Amanda. Leaving in different vehicles but driving in tandem, we soon hit our first traffic jam: a sort of “tundra chicken” crossing the road. A very tolerant (or perhaps oblivious) pair of Willow Ptarmigan were courting, making small barking sounds, and the male was strutting about with his tail to the sky. He waddled down the road, then circled back 20 feet or so through the tundra flowers – Wow!

Both buses going into Denali spotted another Willow Ptarmigan as we worked our way through the series of ponds that dot the wet tundra on the lower reaches of the road. We also found a gorgeous Red-throated Loon (whose mate was likely on eggs), and later a male Long-tailed Duck and an American Widgeon – all worthy of putting a scope on. At a welcome pit stop at Eielson Visitors Center, a real surprise awaited us: Simon called on the radio to say that we’d have to park at the top and go right in because a Grizzly Bear and her cubs were near the parking lot!

The local naturalists knew this bear from last year and had dubbed her Goldilocks; now she had three cubs with her. The locals were elated to see she had made it through the winter. We filled the outside porch of the Center, and happily clicked away on our cameras, watching her settle into a nap, cubs lying across her as if she were a giant pillow. Robert had brought a scope to the deck, and through it we were actually able to see their eyelids shut! Perhaps this mom found people to be no problem (we hope), or somehow found a sense of security here.

Those on the foray with Amanda enjoyed close looks at Caribou that crossed the road with seven or eight young calves in tow. They saw several bears, including one born this year that was trying to copy its mother as she dug away in the flowers. Another highlight was the sight of Golden Eagle above the dramatic cliffs of Stony Dome, as well as several good looks at Long-tailed Jaeger.

Pete’s group left the road, walking up through dense and colorful flowers, including Lapland Rosebay. Clouds hung on the ridges above and they could see all up the way up and down the river – just incredible. They watched two different herds of caribou in the distance, one high on a ridge that descended into the valley.

On the road west of Eielson, Amanda’s bus was the first to encounter Goldilocks and her three yearling cubs, now walking calmly on the road single file, with the cubs pausing occasionally to investigate things and then rushing to catch up with mom. Luke’s bus and then Amanda’s caught up, as we were all heading home. So here in the wilds of the Thoroughfare River we were in a traffic jam, caused by a very successful mother Grizzly Bear, indifferent to the world.

As they walked, lifting their thick plantigrade limbs casually above the mud, we could see the huge pads of the mother’s feet and the cubs’ human-sized ones. People laughed and joked as we watched them leave several large piles, and only when a vehicle came from the opposite direction did the mom seem concerned at all. In an instant she turned to the cubs and headed DIRECTLY up an almost vertical slope, through deep sands and then over hard rock. Up and up she went, never stopping, never tiring, until she went over the crest about 400 feet above. Around the corner we again caught sight of the family, now spread out in shrubs big enough to engulf the yearlings. Although they can be fierce hunters, now these grizzlies were placidly munching on grass and new leaves.

We were content to wind our way home, stopping only at the pond where the Long-tailed Duck was now close to our shore. What a great day, despite the rain! Dinner was an excellent pork roast, with vegetarian options for those who preferred them. In the evening we enjoyed an informative slide program given by Stan Senner, executive director of Audubon, Alaska. Stan did an excellent job putting Alaska birds into a worldwide perspective, reviewing both their strengths and challenges.

Thurs., June 10 Tundra Explorations/ Searching for Elusive Moose
This morning we woke to sun, and everyone looked forward to a great day of hiking or looking for animals. Suzie said right away, “I’m here in Alaska, and I want to maximize animal sightings!” She and others had MOOSE on their mind, especially because one had wandered through the property the previous evening but not all had seen it.

Simon, our guide for this Naturalist Foray, did just an excellent job, adjusting his ideas according to what we wanted to do. We had great scope views of Common Loon, Greater White-fronted Geese, Long-tailed Duck, Lesser Yellowlegs, Beaver, Bonaparte’s Gull, and more.

On a walk at the campground, Jo and Peg heard a Lesser Yellowlegs spiraling down in full display. It landed awkwardly on top of the spruce next to them, not the typical view of this marsh-loving bird. We looked very hard for moose, stopping to scan as Simon explained many aspects of Denali’s more evident geological features. The glacial features near Wonder Lake seemed to leap from the page of a textbook – this was a story of rock and ice that would seem totally unbelievable without such evidence before our eyes.

The clouds lifted, and we stopped often for photos. While Mt. McKinley itself was not visible, many peaks and massive glaciers of the Alaska Range were revealed. We watched more ducks until several said, “let’s move higher and look for all that charismatic mega fauna!” We stopped for lunch and then worked our way to a dry ridge through wet hummocky tundra -- a good workout despite the rather short distance. We could see forever, all the folds and turns of the Alaska Range as well as the older, crumpled range we perched upon.

But wildlife seemed scarce today, so we returned to the road, appreciating a bold male Wilson’s Warbler, a singing Fox Sparrow, a flock of Common Redpoll, and a good old American Robin. On the side of Mount Galen, we found “Goldilocks and her three bears” asleep on the tundra. They looked so comfortable; we wanted to join the pile. Mom alternated between sleeping belly up with paws to the sky; and rolling over to sniff the air, lie on her side, and try to be a little more alert and less vulnerable. Then the temptation to sprawl, spread-eagled, overtook her again. The young would twitch, raise a huge paw, scratch a bit, and snuggle closer to mom. To be in the midst of a vast wild area, watching these great bears so relaxed -- high above us but within great view of binoculars and scopes -- was a unique treat.

Another spectacular sighting awaited us around the corner: an adult Golden Eagle, making spirals above the colorful rhyolite hills. The feathers on the back of its neck had a rich gold sheen, as did the highlights of the wings and shoulders. It circled so easily -- covering perhaps a quarter mile with each turn -- then lit on a ridge where we could watch it in the scope. After two days of rain it was likely hungry, as evidenced by its intent feeding on what was most likely an Arctic Ground Squirrel.

We continued on to Eielson, took a short break with hot drinks, and made our way to Stony Dome to see if we could find the Caribou herd we had had such great views of the day before. We found a few scattered individuals, but not the herd; as the afternoon had flown by fast we headed for home.

Anne, John, and Nancy, who had opted to hike with Pete, enjoyed their time investigating flowers of the McKinley Bar Trail, which was once the major route of climbers attempting to conquer the South Face of Mt. McKinley. Nancy described meeting a climbing party, complete with sherpas and so much gear that it took them a good deal of time to cross a particularly deep part of the river.

We had our hors d’oeuvres on the patio; Anne was particularly pleased with the taste and presentation of fresh sushi rolls. The light was so beautiful; we had real hopes that McKinley would clear. After a delicious dinner of fresh halibut, Pete Martin presented an inspiring final program, a collection of his personal slides from around Alaska. Images of the four seasons were accompanied by music. John remarked that the presentation was sensitively done, revealing yet another side of Pete, a remarkable individual.

People lingered after the show, some viewing digital photos of bears and wildflowers on their laptops (technology arrives at North Face), others finishing conversations, and all waiting for a view of the mountain. Around 11:00 p.m. one side broke through the clouds, and people ran for their cameras. Others who had been asleep awoke to the commotion. But McKinley let us see only a corner, still harboring most of her secrets under cloud cover.

Fri., June 11 Denali National Park / Travel by Train to Anchorage
We had a lot of traveling to do today to reposition ourselves from the wild realm of Denali to the Gulf of Alaska -- where we would look for whales and seabirds near Seward. Today’s goal was Anchorage, some 13 hours away; first we went by bus over the tundra to the Denali Station, where we caught the train to Anchorage. The bus ride was rather quiet, though we all enjoyed seeing a very blond bear -- a female taking a rest between litters of cubs -- foraging solo in dense shrubbery near Stony Dome. This was a new bear for us, very large and blond – a true Toklat bear.

We tried hard to catch sight of wolves near the new den site along the road corridor, but perhaps they were taking advantage of the rain and cool weather to hunt, as no one seemed to be at home. Fritz -- our very competent driver -- called out MOOSE with great enthusiasm, and binoculars came up like periscopes at sea. It was a big female with a large milk udder, but no calf in sight. The calf could have been parked or hidden in the brush; but seeing the mother so swollen with milk we suspected that the calf was taken as food for wolf pups, not far away at that same den site.

Saying goodbye to Denali at the train station, we agreed that it had been worth the effort to see it via the North Face Lodge: we’d been so well taken care of, and were able to learn so much about tundra ecology first hand, aided by some great experts. At the train station, Les and Nancy went quickly down to pick up an Express Mail for Peg, only to find the Post Office closed for Reagan’s funeral. That snafu – and Nancy’s delight at being able to get a paper and some news – was testimony to just how far we had been from the world of conveniences!

We settled in for the long train ride – a nice chance to relax and think about all we had already seen. As we traveled further south, we left the brooding clouds for thick forests on both sides of the train: Balsam Popular, Alder thickets, and tall White Spruce. Around the edges of ponds, Bluebells stretched through dense patches of Devil’s Claw; interspersed with grass and sedge. We searched the tops of trees for Hawk Owl. We did find several graceful pairs of Trumpeter Swans, one pair with three chicks swimming along behind. Our train crew announced the scenic highlights, from marshes with Beaver to historic bridges. We followed several of the state’s great rivers to a stop in Talkeetna. Then on to Anchorage and a much deserved rest at the delightful Copper Whale Inn.

Sat., June 12 Anchorage / Earthquake Park / Turnagain Arm / Seward
We needed a leisurely morning after all our adventures, and several enjoyed sleeping in. Jo, opting for an early walk made it all the way to Westchester Lagoon and found Red Knot and her first Hudsonian Godwit. Tony put out a great breakfast at the Copper Whale; then Peg scampered over to get our deli lunches while four of our group toured the beautifully done Anchorage Museum.

Then it was on to Seward -- and we could not have had a more beautiful day, just a light breeze and full sun. We decided to make a quick stop we made a stop at Westchester Lagoon and walked out to the mudflats of Cooke Inlet. Robert took a long look and exclaimed “Denali!” There, visible at last, was Mt. McKinley, a very clear view despite the distance. We photographed some very tolerant Red-necked Grebe before moving on to Earthquake Park, where all were moved by the story of hardships endured in the Earthquake that reshaped Alaska.

Continuing to Seward we drove alongside stunning ocean waters of the fjord known as Turnagain Arm, with all the huge peaks near Hope and in Chugach State Park still snow-covered and gleaming. We had lunch at one particularly dramatic spot; afterwards Peg led the group under the highway bridge where a pair of American Dipper was busy feeding young. There were several huge, bowl-shaped nests of lichen, but anxious calls alerted us to the current residence. It was great to watch the young eagerly thrust open their beaks for delivery. The parents sped off and back, and we could have stayed all day!

We searched and searched for Beluga and stopped at a pull-off midway down the sound to read a display about their plight; but we did not see any today. Ice cream was our consolation prize, and a pretty good one at that. We found Sandhill Crane, Osprey, and Bald Eagle en route. When we arrived in Seward late in the afternoon, Resurrection Bay was clear and sunny. Many of the group walked among the piers to gaze out at the mountains and to watch cormorants and Sea Otter in the bay. This was a free night for dinner, with no shortage of great restaurants to try.

Sun., June 13 Boat Trip to Chiswell Island and Northwestern Fjord
Excellent weather stayed with us, perfect for our all-day boat trip out to the Chiswell Islands and the Northwestern Fjord. We saw a Sea Otter just off the docks and soon were spotting Common Murres. In a small cove near Fox Island we saw our first Horned and Tufted Puffins. The number of species really picked up as we left the protected bay for the open Gulf of Alaska. We pitched and rolled a bit, but the Captain took mercy on us and headed for the sheltered waters closer to the islands. On this route we were literally surrounded by seabirds. Tiny Parakeet Auklets gave us only a quick glance; Tufted Puffins seemed only mildly annoyed by having to get out of our wake. The noise was memorable as the birds fed and flew back and forth to their nests.

Then someone spotted a whale, and we were off to get a better view. This was the first of several humpbacks, perhaps a dozen, we would see today. Getting closer, we saw it was actually a pair of humpbacks -- likely a mother and her yearling calf – feeding, coming to the surface to blow, and giving us a tail show when they dove. We were watching Cassin’s Auklet and Ancient Murrelet, when the next mammal appeared – a swimming Black Bear no less! This was our first Black Bear of the trip, and what a place to find it -- way out in the channel at the opening to Northwestern Fjord! Even the crew seemed amazed – what a sight. We did not want to stress or disturb him, but he seemed at home in the water and did not change his course when we passed.

As we approached the glacier, marveling at its opalescent sheen, chunks of ice began to clink on the sides of the boat. Peg spotted seals on the ice – there to calve away from the dangers of Orca. Even the little ones seemed so content in this icy realm – amazing! Several big chunks let loose, and sounded like small cannons being blown off from various shores. For about 20 minutes we just took in the sights and sounds, truly a remarkable experience.

Turning back, we resumed birding. With diligence, we found one pair of the rarer Kittlitz Murrelet, feeding where a freshwater stream ran into the fjord. To top it all off, our captain steered us into an idyllic cove where a waterfall cascaded nearly onto the deck of the boat. Mountain goats and their young watched us from above; a pair of Marbled Murrelet scampered away.

It was several hours until we pulled back into the dock; the boat trip had been a wonderful way to take in the grandeur and beauty of summer in these rich Alaskan waters. We celebrated our adventure at Ray’s Waterfront, well known for fine seafood, and – yes – some good desserts. Two of our pals from North Face Lodge had also gone out to sea that day, and returned to join us – a reunion and a parting, until the next journey!

Mon., June 14 Sea Life Center in Seward / Return to Anchorage
On our last morning, we fit in one more outing, a trip to the Sea Life Center in Seward. This state-of-the-art facility was well worth the effort; members of the group explored on their own. We then drove back the 2½ hours to Anchorage, where we dropped Robert and Susan off at the airport. The rest of us enjoyed lunch at Humpy’s, one of Peg’s favorite restaurants in Anchorage. Then it was time to prepare for trips home. We were all tremendously proud of our senior member, Les Steffens, and his dear wife, friend and companion Nancy. We hope we all have as many miles in us, Les - you were a treasured companion on this journey.

 

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