Big Bend
May 1-8, 2006 - Trip Report

Mon., May 1 Arrival in El Paso
Everyone arrived in El Paso without a hitch. We started the trip with a bit of scenic driving through Fort Bliss with its maze of city streets; eventually we found our way to a wetland area where the birding was fantastic right from the start. A Greater Roadrunner made an appearance on the bank of the pond, fanning its tail and seeking shade in the hot afternoon sun. A good number of elegant Black-necked Stilts gathered at the pond, joined by one American Avocet in breeding plumage. Wilson’s Phalarope were new for most, and figuring out shorebirds (Baird’s, Stilt, Semi-palmated, Western and Least) proved challenging for many.

Because of the “one more bird” syndrome we arrived at the hotel late in the afternoon; but the light on the vast open landscape of West Texas made up for it, as did the activity of Pronghorns (several with new fawns), and a great view of a Golden Eagle in flight. We enjoyed a welcome dinner at Jett’s Grille and great accommodations at the Hotel Paisano.

Tues., May 2 Marfa to Big Bend / The Post
At a restaurant called the Brown Recluse, breakfast was bound to be fun. Ruth tried nopalitas (prickly pear pads) in her scrambled eggs; several ate outdoors, and others browsed in the vintage bookstore. Soon we were on our way, reaching the edge of town before stopping for a flock of Scaled Quail. They obliged us by perching in a shrub, picking berries as we trained the scope on them. At the roadside display about the mystery lights of Marfa (an odd and unexplained phenomena) we had good looks at Lillian’s race of Eastern Meadowlark, Lark Sparrow, and a Horned Lark (the latter spotted by Meredith).

The Post proved to be quite an oasis in this drought year. As Peg put out the lunch spread, Gina helped everyone get great looks at Blue Grosbeak, Yellow-rumped and Wilson’s Warblers, Inca Dove, and more. The park caretaker had trained a Summer Tanager to share his lunch crumbs, and Vermilion Flycatchers seemed almost as tame! We got distant looks at Black-tailed Prairie Dogs, though the colony seems to be dwindling during this serious drought. Two Scissortail Flycatchers put on a good show from the fence line, joined by a Loggerhead Shrike.

On our drive to and through Persimmon Gap, Peg explained the fascinating geology along the way. The novaculite rock was quite striking, although Walter had some doubts about the evidence that the Rockies and Appalachians once met here. Light on the volcanic massive of the Chisos Mountains was absolutely beautiful as we ascended the road up Green Gulch. We enjoyed dinner; then the sun set through the Window, and Bob and Mahlon captured it all on film.

Wed., May 3 Rio Grande Village / Boquillas Canyon
We were up and out early to catch the sunrise over the Sierra del Carmen Mountains of Mexico. We caught the birds’ morning burst of activity in the lush green corridor of the Rio Grande in the southeast corner of the park. Two large Javelina were feeding on the grass near the store and restroom, a good sighting and scope view for us before they disappeared into dense brush.

Birding was great right from the start, with super views of White-winged Dove, Greater Roadrunner, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Bell’s Vireo, and more. The antics of male Painted Buntings were a highlight of the morning: they feed in tall grass, lighting on waving fronds that bend with their weight. Then some Blue Grosbeaks and a female Lazuli Bunting joined them – a lovely palette of blues and jewel tones! Our patience was rewarded when a Black Hawk flew in for a possible nest exchange, then flew out to a light pole to eat what looked to be a large frog. Later it perched boldly in large cottonwood trees where the area of Daniel’s Ranch was being irrigated. A Least Grebe cooperated nicely for our viewing at a small pond. Peg had spotted this bird the week before and was delighted to find it still here despite the fact that park maintenance staff were using heavy equipment to clean out the back pond.

We walked the nature trail, finding two species of turtle and finally getting looks at the very vocal Yellow-breasted Chat. We enjoyed our lunch and a break in the shade of the cottonwoods. Mahlon found the nest of a Ladder-backed Woodpecker; Golden-fronted Woodpeckers here were quite tame as well. We compiled our growing bird list less we forget a few sightings. As Mary said, “you can only take in so much!”

At the Boquillas Canyon overlook we delighted in the gaudy blooms of Strawberry Pitayha Cacti, so bright in the austere landscape. Everyone enjoyed some down time in the Basin, and dinner at leisure before our optional owling escapade.

A Gray Fox along the road in Green Gulch was a good omen; a large female Tarantula crossing the road was a big hit as well. We arrived at Dugout Wells in time to admire the pink light of sunset around the Chisos. Turkey Vultures gathered to roost around the picturesque windmill, and a group of Yellow-headed Blackbirds added their colors to the scene. Action at the Elf Owl nest hole began before dark: the female poked her head out, restless to be out feeding, and we all got super views of her through the scope. Just before dark she heard the male; reassured that all was well, she was out of the nest in a flash. Luckily for us she flew right to us, landing in a small shrub for a great sighting.

Thursday, May 4 Chisos Mountains / The Big Hike
Many members of our group stretched their limits today to reach Big Bend’s high country, and we enjoyed each other’s company as we climbed. From the start we had great bird activity. Good sightings of Scott’s Oriole and Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, as well as a close encounter with a large group of Javelina got us off to a great start. A Dusky Flycatcher posed well, showing its olive tones; we also had good looks at Canyon Towhee, Bewick’s Wren, and Hutton’s Vireo. From a lookout spot Peg described the geology of the Basin, pointing out the many layers of ash, welded tuff, and lava – in contrast to the harder rock intrusion near the Window.

We stopped for brief rests beneath trees of the Madrean Oak Woodland -- Mexican Pinyon, Emory Oak, Evergreen Sumac, and Drooping Juniper. Because of the drought very little was in bloom, but we loved the dense waving fronds of the abundant bunch grass in the meadows. Mexican Jays, some color banded from a recent study, were bold and inquisitive. John wanted to record the last view of our hotel complex, which got smaller and smaller as we climbed. Rounding a corner, we saw one of the relict stands of Aspen in the park, a remnant of much cooler times associated with glaciation to the north.

Finally, when we reached the level where many Madrone trees were in bloom and the Canyon Maples were in full seed, we found the Colima Warbler! It fed close to eye level – indeed, at about three feet away at first – ignoring us as several approached. It was challenging to keep it in view as it moved quickly about to feed, but we watched it for several minutes around an open rock slide, along with Acorn Woodpecker, Hammond’s Flycatcher, and a Wilson’s Warbler.

Few Colima were calling, likely due to heat and time of day, but we enjoyed looks at Townsend’s Warbler and overhead, courting White-throated Swifts. A tiny Canyon Wren joined us for lunch, and again at the spring. Rolla, who had been with Peg to Big Bend several years ago smiled and said, “this is the sound I came for.” On this particularly hot day, several chose to turn back from the top of the Pinnacles, while others continued to sit by the spring and watch for birds near the water pools. A Whip-poor-will calling in the afternoon was a nice surprise; clear views of the “Boot” and Juniper Canyon were a nice reward.

Once back in the comforts of our lodgings, we enjoyed comparing notes on the trip. When asked if she would go hiking again, Keiko laughed and replied emphatically, “no!” My guess is that it all depends on what birds await her on the next trail….

Fri., May 5 Sam Nail Ranch / Oak Spring / Burro Mesa Pouroff / Cottonwood Campground / Santa Elena Canyon / Cinco de Mayo at Terlingua
As Big Bend sits far on the western side of its time zone, and dawn isn’t until 7 a.m., early risers can enjoy a star-filled morning sky. The constellation Scorpio appears on its side just above Emory Peak and the Milky Way crosses its base.

We left after breakfast for sightseeing, geology, and birding on the west side of the park, traveling by van along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The Sam Nail Ranch was superb, with eight or more Blue Grosbeaks singing and displaying, Yellow-breasted Chat posing, a Painted Bunting coming up for splendid views, and of all things, a male Bell’s Vireo, out in the open, singing repeatedly. We watched as a young, molting Summer Tanager found its voice, and enjoyed the combination of Cardinal and Pyrrhuloxia.

We then drove up a dirt road to the trailhead to Oak Spring, where we found Black-throated Sparrow and views of the bottom of the Window. Pyrrhuloxia was the most common species here; we had only fleeting views of our most sought after species, the Varied Bunting. Shade under the immense leaning Emory Oak was divine. Our walk up Burro Mesa Pouroff was quiet but stunning: we walked the creek bed, the cliffs of orange volcanic tuff towering over us as Canyon and Rock Wrens sang.

At Cottonwood Canyon we feasted on a southwestern salad and sandwiches. Halfway through our meal Marlene spotted the nest of a persistent Vermilion Flycatcher female, who came in to brood right above us. We had great views of Tropical Kingbird, our second for the day. The Gray Hawk called, then put on a good flight show for us. At the far end of the campground we found a pair of Lucy’s Warblers and a Verdin working on its nest. By now we were used to seeing Golden-fronted and Ladder-backed Woodpeckers, both nesting in limbs of the cottonwoods. They and the many pairs of Vermilion Flycatcher were still a delight.

We looked at the historic exhibits and got ice-cream (yum!) at the old store at Castalon, before heading out for a peek and short hike into Santa Elena Canyon. Then we drove up the Old Maverick Road to Terlingua, where Cinco de Mayo festivities included a salsa-tasting contest and Mexican folklorica dancing. Dinner at the Starlight Theater was great fun; en route we took a quick stop to admire the desert night sky.

May 6 Window Trail / Alpine / Fort Davis / McDonald Observatory
This morning Gina, Bob, and Ruth took off to hike the picturesque Window Trail, maintaining a good pace to reach the view and the fascinating section of highly compressed rock that frames a stream. Although the stream was dry, they found a Black-capped Vireo -- a good find in Big Bend. Peg and her group of birders found another Black-capped Vireo male, so they must be making a comeback. This group also had super looks at Scott’s Oriole, Black-headed Grosbeak, Hermit Thrush, Orange-crowned Warbler, and other migrants passing through the area.

We left late in the morning for the Davis Mountains. En route we enjoyed lunch at the Reata, a wonderful local restaurant in Alpine that is known for its Cowboy Cuisine. We passed a huge volcanic monolith, and had super looks at several ducks, a Great Blue Heron, and a Zone-tailed Hawk at a small reservoir. Rolla noted that the sight of a Verdin at the reservoir, building its nest, was a trip highlight. We arrived in Fort Davis around 4:30 and settled into our accommodations.

After dinner, Gina drove the group up the winding road to McDonald Observatory, one of the major astronomy research facilities in the world. We arrived as the sun was setting in time to see the sundial in front of the visitor center and explore the exhibits and fantastic gift shop. At 9:30 pm, we made our way to the Rebecca Gate Telescope Park behind the Visitors Center for the “Star Party.” In an open amphitheater, we got a lesson on the constellations, nebulaue, and planets in the magnificent May sky of Texas.

After our astronomy lesson, we had the chance to look at Jupiter, Saturn, several star clusters, and the moon through the Observatory’s telescopes. A magical evening!

Sun. & Mon., May 7 & 8 Davis Mountains State Park / Davis Mountains TNC Preserve
Gina and Peg hosted breakfast in the suite at Hotel Limpia; then we were on our way to explore another of Texas’ Sky Islands. Larger than the Chisos, the Davis Mountains are clad with extensive pinyon, oak, and juniper woodlands as well as higher Ponderosa Pine forests. We started with a search for the elusive Montezuma Quail, and were thrilled when the naturalist told us that they had just started coming back in to the feeders, mainly looking for water. It had been several months since they’d made such a visit, so we went right to the shaded benches.

Other birds entertained us while we waited – it was a little paradise under those trees! Several species were new for us: a shiny blue-black male Phainopepla came in, as well as a Green-tailed Towhee. Ladderbacked Woodpecker, Summer Tanager, and Black-headed Grosbeak all came in to a peanut-butter/suet mix right in front of us. After almost an hour, we decided to walk a bit and search the areas where Peg had found the quail the week before. Marlene was too enchanted to leave, so she kept a radio handy to call us. About 10 a.m. in they came! Meredith spotted them coming in and, joined by Mary, Keiko and John, got some splendid looks. Others came racing back from the other feeders at the Visitors Center, and many got at least a quick look. Such an elegant bird.

Next we drove down to the site of the 10-year bird banding research station, where we got great looks at Ash-throated Flycatcher and some other species we’d seen regularly this week. As it was quiet, we headed north past McDonald Observatory to visit The Nature Conservancy’s Davis Mountains Preserve, which protects higher elevation forested lands in this Sky Island range. Our energies were fading a bit, but we still enjoyed seeing a beautiful Grace’s Warbler and a picnic lunch with views of Mt. Livermore.

At our farewell dinner at the Hotel Limpia, we celebrated a great week. We departed for flights out of El Paso early the next day, remembering favorite birds, favorite views, and favorite moments while plotting our next adventure.

Thanks to Tony Beck for the great Acorn Woodpecker photo! To see more of his images, go to: www3.sympatico.ca/beck.tony/

 

 

 

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