Black Hills and Badlands
October 2004 - Trip Report

Sun., Oct. 3 Arrival in Rapid City / Bear Butte State Park / Spearfish Canyon
It was a glorious, sunny, fall day in Rapid City as our group arrived. The Journeys Museum provided an excellent introduction to the region, including a particularly good geology exhibit. En route to Spearfish Canyon, we made a scenic loop through Fort Meade, now a recreation area. The mix of prairie and woodland here is a delight, with lots of protected Burr Oak and Paper Birch groves in the gullies and wide expanses of prairie. The grasses were curing in the sun, the wind making patterns like ocean waves through their grain-filled tops.

 

Bear Butte, which stands 1,200 feet above the prairie, shows much of the geologic story of the larger Black Hills, with a shining chunk of Madison Limestone off to the side. We watched a distant raptor fly above the ridge, a quick straight-line flight that made identification impossible. Prayer flags of the Lakota blew in the wind and decorated the start of the trail. We continued on to the nearby lake, where we got good looks at numerous American Wigeon, Gadwall, Horned Grebe, and American Coot.

 

The light was fading as we entered the canyon, but the brilliant colors of the birch, sumac, and Box Elder stood out against the glow of the Madison limestone. The road follows the creek, winding and twisting through gorgeous scenery -- a great start to the trip! We settled into our comfortable accommodations at the lovely log-crafted lodge and enjoyed a welcome dinner.

 

Mon., Oct. 4 Spearfish Canyon / Devil’s Tower

A flock of Red Crossbills perched for scope views in the parking lot this morning, where several of the group joined Gail and Peg for optional walking and birding up the canyon. Our destination was Roughlock Falls, a beautiful trail adorned at this time of year with splendid fall color. The canyon is about 1,000 feet deep at this point, so mosses and liverworts coat the north- and west-facing sides where sunlight is sparse until mid-day. On this frosty, fresh morning we heard the sound of an American Dipper at the small concrete dam; Gail spotted the male perched on the edge of the dam, his repeated cheery notes magnified by the acoustics of the canyon. We continued on, watching a White-tailed Deer and her twin fawns cross the stream on a beaver dam at the head of a beautiful marsh and meadow. Sunlight filtered through the red and yellow leaves, growing strong on the valley floor.

 

We discovered a great mixed flock of birds, signaled by the calls of Black-capped Chickadee and Red-breasted Nuthatch; soon we saw nearly a dozen Yellow-rumped (Audubon’s) Warblers, an Orange-crowned Warbler, several Ruby-crowned Kinglets, and one immature Harris’ Sparrow. Don spotted a Prairie Falcon perching cooperatively on a high ridge pine, and Richard spotted a Townsend’s Solitaire. A secretive Lincoln’s Sparrow seemed quite content in a small shrub by Roughlock Falls, and all enjoyed taking photos of the vibrant cascade. Leigh spotted wild Forget-Me-Nots in the pool above the stream; below the falls Mallards had made watery trails through thousands of small white Aquatic Buttercups.

 

On the way to Devil’s Tower we took a detour at Beulah to see the Vore Buffalo Jump. In this limestone sinkhole archaeologists have uncovered over 20 vertical feet of bones and, in the sediments that contain them, have analyzed centuries of climate change. While trying to find the place, we encountered cowboys penning some cattle and a small flock of Wild Turkey.

 

Devil’s Tower seems to jump into view about 10 miles away -- we stopped for distant photos then wound our way closer. In the glow of autumn light the tower’s impressive vertical columns seem warm and inviting; two climbers made their way up the deep cracks as we hiked around its base. Lush forests of Ponderosa Pine with a thick undergrowth of grass made for glorious hiking. A Red Squirrel posed for photos with its cone, and we saw two species of chipmunk, Eastern and Least. A few flowers hung on, particularly on the warm slopes of the “Sedona red” Spearfish Formation. The trail offered a variety of landscapes, as well as some spectacular views of the Belle Fourche River Valley with its golden cottonwood trees.

 

A distinguished White-tailed Deer buck with several does and fawns fed and splashed in the river, much to Liuda’s and the rest of the group’s delight. Gingy wanted to go for more exercise, continuing on up the hill to retrieve our van. She and Peg watched an Eastern Cottontail dust bathe, scraping dirt from a hillside, and popping up and down to scratch its back with quick erratic movements – fun! Our trail brought us right under the magnificent tower as the afternoon light began to create dramatic shadows and contrasts --Bud and Richard took reams of photos!

 

We followed scenic Highway 24 home through the Bear Lodge Mountains, and arrived back at the lodge at dusk – a full and wonderful day! Among the highlights were views of Pronghorn and several flocks of Wild Turkey.

 

Tues., Oct. 5 Little Spearfish Falls / Lead / Sylvan Lake / Needle’s Highway

In the lovely light of early morning, we walked the ¾-mile loop trail below the lodge, which gave us great views of Little Spearfish Falls and a host of local trees. An Orange-crowned Warbler gave us a quick look, as did a flock of White-crowned Sparrow and a mother and fawn White-tailed Deer. After loading luggage, we headed out for a scenic drive to a local fire tower on a high hill, with views all around. The Forest Service had started a controlled burn the previous day, and the staff was up there watching its progress. The panorama before us included the red beds of the Spearfish Formation circling the mountains, the view to Devil’s Tower, and long expanses of prairie Coming down, we spotted a young Ferruginous Hawk by an open meadow, but it tucked away in dense pine at the edge and was difficult to see.

 

At the historic town of Lead, we enjoyed lunch on the restaurant’s deck, as it was warm enough to eat outside. We browsed a bit, looking at some of the mining equipment in the little park; but most of the stores were closed down for the season, likely worn out from summer crowds! It was a beautiful day, so Peg pushed us on to save time for a hike.

 

The beauty and quiet of Sylvan Lake was just the ticket for our afternoon. Here the granite spires rise right out of the water – with the added adornment of fall color and late afternoon shadows it was quite striking! We found a Red Admiral butterfly and a host of ferns and liverworts in the lush conditions created by the massive rocks that frame the trail’s descent at Sunday Gulch. This was a short but good adventure, down steps and rock ledges into the depth of the canyon. We rested at a viewpoint, then returned to enjoy a spectacular drive across the Needle’s Highway.

 

The light was so beautiful we had to stop several times for photos. As a perfect end to our day, we encountered a herd of seven or eight Bighorn Sheep rams, intent on feeding in a scenic meadow. They seemed oblivious to our presence, looking up from time to time with big wads of grass in their mouths. Framed by colorful aspens, they were quite a sight! Wild Turkeys were the greeting committee near our cabins as we checked in. Many of the group met in the bar of the State Game Lodge to watch the vice-presidential debate.

 

Wed., Oct. 6 Harney Peak Hike

We enjoyed a leisurely morning before meeting under the pines to pack our sack lunches for the day. Perfect, mirrored reflections of pines decorated the still, clear Stockade Lake as we drove by - a lovely sight. Our trail to Harney Peak was lined with Paper Birch and Quaking Aspen, just at the peak of color. Bud found a great downed log to frame our photographs. We lingered to photograph and identify several butterflies: Painted Lady, Orange Sulfur, and Variegated Fritillary. They flitted about a sunny meadow where Yarrow, clover, and thistle persisted.

 

Everyone did wonderfully on the steady climb. Just before a scenic break stop, Gail, Don, Leigh, and Rose Marie spotted a Northern Three-toed Woodpecker, which fed by flaking the bark off a White Spruce. They also spotted a Cooper’s Hawk, while the others watched a mixed flock of both nuthatches and Black-capped Chickadees. A real surprise was a quick but good look at a Pine Marten scampering through some dense down timber on the floor of the Ponderosa Pine forest. Wow! We took many photos of the colorful aspens against the soft shadows of the granite spires, and of a distant view of the Harney Peak lookout tower.

 

Janet was not keen on seeing our goal so far away, but sooner than we thought we were winding up the last rock stairs (not designed for those with short legs!) to the viewpoint. Gail gave a whoop at the marvelous views, and urged us on from the viewing deck, where a 360-degree panorama offered quite a show as an impending storm moved in.

 

We settled down to lunch in the round part of the tower when all heck broke loose. Liuda stayed in the doorway even as hail started falling – she just loved the wind and weather, and the sense of being on top of the world. Our hike down was more rigorous than expected; but all did well and were still smiling at the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead, where we celebrated with some cold drinks and the luxury of a seat in the van. En route home we spotted the Bighorn Sheep rams in their same meadow, and a new species – a HUGE American Bison bull near a meadow. After our active day, all enjoyed an excellent dinner at the lodge.

 

Fri., Oct. 7 Custer State Park Wildlife Drive / Wind Cave

What a delight to wake to the sounds of rushing water, the calls of Blue Jays, and the sight of Wild Turkeys gilded by the sun as they walked across the meadow! We had to walk between Bighorn Sheep and Wild Turkey to get to breakfast, with cottonwood trees lit like candles by the morning sun.

 

We set out at 8:30 to see what we could find on the park’s Wildlife Drive. Our first reward was a herd of Pronghorn: the buck put on a good show, snorting and crossing the road when his group would not follow. Gail spotted a flock of Western Meadowlark just as we turned to start our walk up the trail at French Creek. A Downy Woodpecker greeted us right at the start; a more formidable roadblock was another enormous male bison, looking very alert and not-too-friendly just to the left of the road. We made a wide detour on a steep hill, only to have him pass us again on the road as we watched a flock of Pinyon Jays. The fall color here was radiant. We walked quietly, taking in the sounds of cicadas and Band-winged Grasshoppers, the bell-like notes of Townsend’s Solitaires, and the sight of late-blooming Mulleins and other flowers. Richard spotted a Sharp-shinned Hawk that circled for several minutes above an open meadow. A large flock of Pinyon Jay flew by calling, later returning to give us great looks against the deep red sandstone that ran parallel to our trail.

 

After the walk, we continued our drive, stopping at a Black-tailed Prairie Dog town just in time to get marvelous looks at an adult Golden Eagle. We also got some nice photographs of a group of female bison with their young, framed by a gully with some nice fall color. After watching a rather mangy Coyote, we continued on to Wind Cave National Park for our lunch and tour of the cave. Many in our group had visited caves from China to France, but few had been here to see the intricate “box work” formations and “cave popcorn.” We enjoyed lunch at the visitor’s center - in the company of Townsend’s Solitaires and American Robins - before meeting the park ranger who would interpret the formations and features of Wind Cave.

 

Peg urged us on to see another local geologic wonder - the Mammoth Site at nearby Hot Springs. This turned out to be the highlight of the day for many. A young woman gave us an excellent tour of the dig site, which displays actual Columbian and Wooly Mammoth skeletons in a variety of postures. All had sought refuge in the warm springs of a limestone sinkhole from which they could not then extricate themselves. A rare Short-faced Bear skull was most impressive. Don remarked on the site’s display of an array of bear skulls, from extinct Cave and Short-faced Bear to modern Grizzly. We learned of glacial patterns, early man, and more. The replica of a shelter made of mammoth bones and bison hides was most impressive.

 

We left the building to a warm fall afternoon, the smell of autumn leaves strong in the museum’s gardens. Driving back, we stopped to photograph some impressive bison bulls; then we walked out to a meadow viewpoint, where we heard the haunting calls of two elk bulls bugling from hidden spots in the trees. As we drove on, Gail spotted a small elk herd, and we got views between the trees of cows, calves, and finally a magnificent bull. Back to a delicious dinner, lively conversation, and the end of a delightful day.

 

Fri., Oct. 8 Custer State Park / Mt. Rushmore / Rapid City

Two Belted Kingfishers, agitated perhaps by the arrival of a third migrant stranger; were our alarm clock this morning: they called and called at the little pond by our cabins. As we left the park, a flock of Wild Turkey seemed to pose for photos. The second van got behind as we clicked away, only to catch up to the leading van when it was completely surrounded by begging burros. These charming creatures stole the hearts of both Bud and Gail, who were emptying their lunch bags in response to cute faces, huge eyes, and big ears.

 

The ensuing drive was lovely, decorated with the golds, reds, and browns of aspen, sumac and oak, interspersed with pine. One of the Civil Conservation Corps vintage tunnels, a feat of road building complete with an artistic touch, framed the first view of Mt. Rushmore. Everyone enjoyed the time here fully, learning about the construction and about the presidents depicted there above the meandering boardwalk trail. Richard spotted some photographers intent on a nearby subject, which turned out to be Rocky Mountain Goats – nice! They bed down in the shade, on some cool granite rock, looking a bit like large Samoyed dogs. Peg and Gail had read about a super hike, and had done a car shuttle to make it possible while others explored Mt. Rushmore.

 

We set off down a challenging trail – lots of rock and a steep descent. Three of our party decided to turn back, as much to have time at Mt. Rushmore as anything – the others ventured on, and were so happy at the end that they did. This trail was one of the best of our trip, biologically diverse and offering splendid views. We descended to a lovely creek, where a lush variety of shrubs seemed to compete for the top fall color award. We ambled up the trail, and were delighted to find a Ruffed Grouse, which stuck around for some great viewing. We ran into a mixed flock that contained quite a few Golden-crowned Kinglets, a new species for the trip. We had quite a climb up through a series of switchbacks, and then a descent through marvelous granite spires, each holding pockets of forest aflame with color – birch and aspen combined. The trail was little used, and lined with colored leaves. Crossing several small streams, we ended up at a tranquil lake, in which Richard spotted a Pied-billed Grebe. Later than we thought, we rushed back to pick up our three that had left the group.

 

We continued on for some express shopping at the Prairie Edge, a fine gallery near our hotel in downtown Rapid City. This was everyone’s free night – several watched the second presidential debate, two tried out the local brewpub, and Bud and Gingy, Rose Marie, Leuda, and Peg went to the opening night of the Sioux Pow-wow.

 

What an extraordinary event! For Bud it was the absolute highlight of the journey. There must have been over 1,000 dancers, each in a costume of the brightest colors; each a combination of old and new – family heirloom treasures in quill and beadwork, combined with modern vibrant fabrics. They began the pow-wow by honoring tribal veterans of past and present. The invocation was a beautiful prayer of the Black Hills and their power of renewal for the human spirit – very fitting to our experience the past week. Then they danced and drummed and greeted each other in celebration – what a privilege to attend!

 

Sat., Oct. 9 Badlands National Park

We left early this morning so we could have a full day in the Badlands. But Peg, driving a new type of vehicle, forgot one thing – fueling up! For the first time in her 20-plus years of guiding, we ran out of gas. Thanks to Ruth and Owen – who, following in their own car, spotted and rescued the stranded Toyota -- and to Gingy -- who called back from the other van’s cell phone – the day was saved, and in no time at all we caught up to the group. We did spot a fine Ferruginous Hawk while waiting – somewhat of a consolation!

 

At the Badlands we walked the Cliffside Nature Trail – beautifully laid out as a boardwalk threading through soft sediments and lush vegetation pockets encouraged by springs and water seepage. Richard spotted a Prairie Falcon, which flew overhead, displaying all its key field marks. Ruth delighted in the serenade from the numerous Townsend’s Solitaires, and several American Magpies put on a good show. We had a picnic lunch at the visitors center, where the group enjoyed the geology displays and short film. Peg had so much food we had seconds and more, and still many good leftovers to leave the park staff – as well as two brand new gas cans, a donation from Owen!

 

On to our hike – a 3.5-mile wander across some of Earth’s oddest scenery. Liuda was not at all impressed until she found the Cochineal Beetle making its cocoons in the Prickly Pear. But Janet and Rose Marie found the landscape beautiful and intriguing, as did our faithful photographers – Bud and Richard – always at the back of the line. Peg spotted a twin set of Bobcat tracks in a dry wash, little altered by any subsequent rain. Shortly after, Leigh spotted Coyote tracks so we could compare. We were surrounded by a palette of soft color, in quickly eroding sediments that loomed as queer shapes all around us. Larger rocks littered the floor; at a shady rest stop Gail found a fossil bone, which our resident veterinarian Don identified as part of a likely scapula. Not wanting to go the full five miles, we opted for the shortcut DOWN -- a wild descent by all standards. By this time we were a great hiking team, and all made it down with a sense of satisfaction.

 

The light was getting really pretty by now, casting longer shadows. On the drive out we stopped at several photographic viewpoints. We returned to Rapid City for a quick clean up, and walked over to a marvelous Italian restaurant for our farewell dinner. Many toasts were given to the events and people that had transformed a vacation into something much more – new friends, renewed spirits, and a greater knowledge of the center of our country – the beautiful Black Hills and Badlands.

 

Sun., Oct. 10 Departures from Rapid City

 

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