Brazil
September 2007 - Trip Report
Peg Abbott, Narca Moore-Craig and Douglas Trent, of Focus Tours, guides
with 10 participants

Sat., Sept. 16 Arrival in Brazil / On to Iguazu
Elaine dubbed it a “long morning”, having flown overnight from the U.S. to endure time in line at the GOL airline terminal in Sao Paolo for our flight to Iguaçu. But all was forgotten as we met our delightful guide Beatrice at Foz de Iguaçu; our kind driver waiting to whisk us over to Iguaçu National Park and its amazing falls. Our first bird of the trip was Southern (Crested) Caracara; a spectacular close view of it on the ground just outside our bus window. Across from the venerable, pink neocolonial Dos Cataratas Hotel on the Brazilian side, several South American Coatimundi waddled up to greet us; fat creatures hopeful for a handout. Red-rumped Caciques and beautiful Green-headed Tanagers fed in trees above the park map we studied, themselves colorful signatures of the subtropical rainforest here, as were two species of grazing rodents at the forest edge, an Agouti and two little Cui (small guinea pig relatives).

We meandered with decidedly slow progress down the trail, stopping to photograph the colorful butterflies, local lizards and lovely wildflowers in bloom. A sign in Portuguese had excellent diagrams of the geology of the area, depicting the Mesozoan Age rifts and cracks that allowed a large-scale escape of erosion-resistant basalt to flow over the land. What a signature remains on the landscape here! Water thunders over the massive semicircle of rock; we enjoyed the sight of Black Vultures bathing in pools at its base, seemingly enjoying a spa. As the formation has curving lines, one sees different sections of the falls in several directions simultaneously -- quite remarkable! Peg looked up in time to yell “Toucan!” excitedly as our first Toco Toucan flew just over our heads; soon afterwards a Surucua Trogon with a beautiful red belly landed quite close. It was a female, and with a small imitation of her call she came out to see us, posing for photos – perfect red eye ring around her large, curious eye. We strolled down the path, finding fuzzy caterpillars, bright orange fungi, a turquoise-winged Prepona butterfly, longwing butterflies and more lizards. Many trees and shrubs were in bloom, from Epiphytic begonias to the marvelous yellow Tabebouia trees. Several hours passed quickly while we were so absorbed in beauty. Patient Beatrice gave us a lot of information without invading our reverie – what a great first day! We left the park near dark to drive over to our lodgings on the Argentine side. We ended with a grand dinner at a memorable buffet at the Sheraton, with good conversation and cheer.

Mon., Sept. 17 Iguaçu National Park
We woke to a lovely cool, clear morning with a bit of mist hanging over the Falls, and time to bird for an hour or so before breakfast. Our first sighting was on the sidewalk; several Southern Lapwings with very young chicks and one adult still brooding them in the cool of morning. Narca trained the scope on what appeared to be an adult with many too many legs -- eight legs in total revealing three chicks tucked under the warmth of its feathers! It was fun to watch them emerge to explore and feed. Soon we were distracted by a tree of tanagers, which turned out to be several pair of Swallow Tanagers, the beautiful turquoise color of the males blending beautifully with greens of the females. A pair of Rufous Hornero sang from their well-constructed adobe home, Creamy-bellied Thrush sang their robust song, and Red-rumped Caciques raided the silken seeds of a shrub that was a Kapok tree relative with similar cottony seeds. We wandered at leisure, enjoying good views and a chance to photograph Surucua Trogon, Chestnut-eared Aracari, and lovely Green-headed Tanager. A yellow-flowering Tabebouia tree had shed half its petals, creating the lovely effect of an ephemeral skirt. The falls roared in the background as we returned for breakfast -- another memorable buffet, this time with yoghurts, cheeses, sausages, pastries and more. At 8:30 Beatrice arrived with maps and bird checklists, and we headed out to explore two trails for Lower and Upper views of the falls. En route to the Lower Trail we soon returned to yesterday’s slow pace, taking in all the beauty and life forms that we could catalog. We found a giant Walkingstick insect, butterflies of every color, and Red-necked Tanagers feeding in a small flock with Blue-naped Chlorophonia. Narca and a few others got a quick peek at a Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, as others lingered behind to admire blooming acacia, begonia, Tillandsia bromeliads and more. A real thrill, close to the trail, was our discovery of a Toco Toucan nest, with both parents emerging to feed what the ranger told us were already hatched chicks. We got superb views of this gaudy bird of “Froot Loops” cereal fame. A pair of Tropical Parula also claimed our attentions, and around every turn we had a new waterfall vista. Against the sheer power of so much water, Pat spotted a cluster of yellow and green – sulfur butterflies at a “puddle party” just inches away from the pounding arc of water. Another creature much at home with the falls and their spray was the Great Dusky Swift. Beatrice took us to a vantage point to see their intimate lives – they seemed perfectly at home pressed vertically against wet rock walls as they preened, greeted each other and stretched wings to depart in flight. They sought out the spray, and being above them, we simply could not have had better views of this signature species of Iguazu (Argentine rather than Brazilian spelling….).

The morning went quickly; we made our way to the Upper Falls Trail, where we enjoyed more splendid views. Susie remarked that the birds had stayed active until 1:30 PM; indeed, it was only need of food and cooling down that sent us into the air-conditioned lunch room for yet another great meal.

At about 3:30 we headed back out for the a final magnificent view right at the lip of the Falls, first taking a tram, then hiking out a long metal boardwalk trail. We watched Great Egret fishing, a Yellow-billed Cardinal that Narca spotted on a small island, and both Snail Kite and Roadside Hawk on their hunting perches. River Turtles rested on rocks mid-river, while two Tegu Lizards fresh out of dormancy gave us a show. Beatrice was excited to see them and told us that it was her first sighting of the season. Words can’t describe the mesmerizing spectacle of water in this beautiful park; Iguazu certainly earns its designation as a World Heritage site. And best of all, we had one more bird sighting to top off the day – about two-thirds of the way back Narca spotted a Black-throated Piping Guan, an endangered species we had really hoped to find. We watched it drink water in small pools on basalt rock islands, close enough to see its plumage details – by dark we had tallied species for the day. We’d also found a great mix of butterflies at the end of the tram route, with beauties too numerous to detail. Some of our group elected to remain at the hotel to rest, while others joined Beatrice for a trip to town and dinner at a fun, but very slow, local restaurant. Many courses were served, with leisure time in between; a celebration of a wonderful day. D’Ann remarked that it was great to see the town and some of the local lifestyle.

Tues., Sept 18 Flight to Cuiaba and Exploring Chapada
Wake up calls this morning came early so that we could make our flight; we ate our croissants with fruit and coffee in quiet darkness, and fell back asleep en route to the airport, to awaken again to dawn and magnificent views of unbroken forest of Iguaçu National Park as we left the airstrip bound for Cuiaba. Our connection in Sao Paolo was efficient, and by noon we had greeted Douglas Trent, president of Focus Tours, our guide and host in Brazil. He immediately took us to a favorite Churrasco restaurant for an ample lunch, a grand affair with waiters coming out with all varieties of meat on skewers, plus an extensive salad bar, and then that luscious passion fruit with ice cream dessert…. They knew Douglas, as did almost everyone we met! All that food powered a few naps en route to Chapada, but Peg woke all as we approached scenic views of the ancient sandstone cliffs of the Central Plateau. We stopped for photos and were rewarded with good sightings of a Yellow-headed Caracara, both Peach-fronted and White-eyed Parakeets, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Chopi Blackbird and lovely blooming Jacaranda trees. Norma already had some of her delightful sketches started; drawings that capture the mood of the day. We drove a bit further, and received a grand welcome from Richard, our host at the Inn of the English, a lovely 200-year old home refurbished to welcome guests. Lovely antiques graced the rooms of the Inn, a lovingly cared-for garden surrounded the pool, and we enjoyed relaxing time to settle in and bird at leisure from chairs around the pool. We found Double-collared Seedeaters, Pale-breasted and Rufous-bellied Thrushes, a striking Fork-tailed Woodnymph feeding on various flowers, Ruddy Ground Dove, and then – a Blue-crowned Motmot, which perched for close inspection through Narca’s always-ready scope. The Thrush-like Wren (or was that Wren-like Thrush….) serenaded us unendingly. As evening approached we were delighted by a flight of Swallow-tailed and Plumbeous Kites, both species in good number, hunting ahead of darkness. A Ferruginous Pygmy Owl called in the background, and cicadas struck up dueling chords at high volume – what a night in rural Brazil! Douglas walked to town with those who had room for another meal, while those still full from the mid-day meat binge at the Churrasco restaurant relaxed and traded tales on the comfortable porch of the Inn.

Wed., Sept. 19 Chapada dos Guimares National Park
Richard and his lovely wife Paula graciously served us early coffee out by the pool, and soon, after driving just outside of town, we were on our way to walk amid drier, stunted forest lands. We found quite a few cooperative species of finches feeding on the road, and heard the duet call, then found dueting White-rumped Tanager and the gaudy Curl-crested Jay. We enjoyed comparative views of the two caracaras both intent on feeding, but soon our eyes were riveted on a Burrowing Owl, which stayed amazingly close as we approached. It turns out its mate was on a likely nest, and we retreated quickly to allow them space. By day’s end we had counted sightings of over a dozen Burrowing Owl individuals, on roof tops, telephone wires and dirt mounts; quite a common bird here!

After a lovely breakfast, we headed to the national park, where we met a new bird at every turn. As we started our walk, a bus drove up with 40 or more high school students, who looked at us with the same fascination we held for the birds. Douglas explained in Portuguese what we were doing, their teacher described their ecology lesson and field trip, and we had fun taking pictures of each other. How hopeful to see young people out in the parks! This was only the first of several such groups we encountered during our stay.

A key attraction of Chapada dos Guimares National Park is a long lovely waterfall known as Veu de Nova, or Bridal Veil falls. Here we had lunch with the birds, a very long lunch as it was hot, the scenery was breathtaking and we were relaxed! The food was delicious; freshly squeezed juice and beers were cold, and a parade of birds performed for us without pause! Black-crested Tyrant, Blue Dacnis, Rufous-winged Antshrike and Rufous Hornero were a few of the delights. On a trail we found White-eared Puffbird, which posed for photos, and had a great study of swifts, sorting out Biscutate from White-collared and the occasional smaller Gray-rumped. A Blue-winged Macaw posed for us as well, and its larger cousins, Red and Green Macaws, nearly deafened us with their cries. By day’s end we had a better feel for the ecology and life forms of the Cerrado bioregion, new to most of us, and quite fascinating -- a mix of desert, chaparral and woodland. Douglas again led those who wanted ‘Green drinks’ (a local specialty we became quite fond of) or dinner but by now several had followed Norma’s lead by getting a sandwich from the bakery to enjoy back at home by the pool. Tough life this birding tour brings!

Thurs., Sept. 20 Chapada dos Guimares / Afternoon Hike with a View
This morning we had a target, that of finding the Red-legged Seriema. Normally we greet nature and appreciate whatever we find, but this bird had really captured the imagination of our group, and Douglas and our driver Pedro were sure we could find it. We drove a long ways out a dirt road close to town, getting out periodically to walk and to listen to the dozen or more seriemas that teased us from afar! In the dense shrubbery it was impossible to find them, and they seemed bent on avoiding the abundant open areas that would give us a chance. We found a beautiful White-tailed Hawk, several Savannah Hawk and several colorful smaller species, but had to return to breakfast somewhat discouraged. Thankfully Richard, Paula and their staff had prepared another scrumptious feast for us, and soon we were laughing and talking and looking ahead to the next adventure.

After breakfast and a short break, we headed out to explore gallery forest, one of the ecosystems of the Cerrado bioregion. A White-eared Puffbird greeted us from a prominent perch close to the road, and we walked from the bus through open terrain to the edge of the forest, where shade was most welcome on this hot, sunny day. We actually bumped into another birding group here, and as the route was short we ended up blending our efforts and between us pulled out quite a list of flycatchers, warblers, tanagers and, a favorite for the morning, the Fiery-capped Manakin. A pair of these little cuties fed on small melostome berries just over our head; Tom was able to photograph the female. Ginny and Pat spotted a Pygmy Kingfisher perched briefly close to a small bridge at our trail’s end. Pedro masterfully turned the bus around and took us to a lovely restaurant perched at the edge of a waterfall, where we could eat in the shade and relax. Linda and Norma were inspired by the locals to dive into the delightful water – a swim they proclaimed both refreshing and wonderful. Narca spotted a Pectoral Sparrow, and as we climbed the steps after our ample lunch, we stopped to look again, only to find a male Helmeted Manakin, with his velvet red raised crest he quickly became the star bird of our day!

The garden and swimming pool back at the Inn provided respite in the afternoon, and at 4:00 pm we met back at the bus to head out for an afternoon outing. Douglas had a gorgeous scenic spot in mind; this was accessed by the Red-legged Seriema search-route road of the morning. We drove along quietly searching, when several of our group at the front of the bus called out urgently as one crossed the road! We had quick looks only, without binoculars, but still – success! All agreed it did look like a little Secretary Bird, or perhaps one of the bustards better known from Africa. Remarkably, after searching for two days, we were rewarded with another sighting, as another crossed the road about a mile further on, and this time we stopped the bus and watched it in detail. A great bird and a well-earned sighting!

Incredible beauty did await us at the road’s end; from a viewpoint we witnessed layer after layer of eroded cliffs, steep escarpments, red and tan sandstone exposed to the ages that now show ancient dune patterns…. Smoke in the air from persistent fires created an ‘unworldly’ air over the landscape. Everyone gasped as two Red and Green Macaws flew just below us, showing off their fine colors. The cliff’s sheer drop-offs were impressive and kept us on the park trail, but what a sense of space we shared at the edge of the Brazilean Shield!

Walking back to our bus a close sighting of a pair of South American Fox provided a thrill. They were both curious about Narca’s calm but persistent squeaking sounds. One actually turned and came towards us, and we enjoyed them for several minutes. Driving out, we had an adventure when the bus got stuck in deep sand. Poor Pedro dug out the back wheel, and with many of us pushing, we were lucky to pop free and continue on our way. After all this, several opted for hot cheese sandwiches from the bakery, and others returned to our favorite local café, where homemade pea soup and other delights hit the spot. By now we were feeling like locals! Off to sleep for tomorrow’s early rising!

Fri., Sept. 21 Gallery Forest Chapada / Flight to Alta Floresta / Rio Cristalino
We started the morning early, wanting to walk again among the tall trees of the gallery forest and hoping for a dawn chorus and more bird activity. The White-eared Puffbird was on its perch as we walked down the road, and a nice surprise was a pair of very cooperative Red-shouldered Macaws that posed for our scopes and cameras a short way from the road. We encountered a small flock with White-bellied Warblers and some small tyrannulets that led to much discussion; then our attention was pulled away as more glitzy Yellow-ridged and Toco Toucans came in calling. We could have spent more time in this lovely forest realm, but packing and breakfast were calling. After a delicious breakfast and a chance to browse in Paula’s creative shop across the road, we returned to the airport via a drive past some small rock hoodoos, a reminder of the previous evening’s fine scenery.

Check-in at the airport went smoothly, and we caught up on our bird list over coffee as we waited for our flight to be announced. As smoke from large area fires had closed the Alta Floresta airport for three full days last week, we were delighted that all was well, and boarded smiling when they called our flight. Our smiles faded as we saw the massive conversion of rainforest to soybean fields below us; for miles and miles and miles we saw bare land and industrial farming, only stopping at the very edge of Alta Floresta. Douglas explained that most of this clearing and conversion to soybean farmland had been done in the last five years; now with oil prices so high production costs and transport are high as well and the fields may as well lie fallow….

A cheerful host welcomed us at the airport, and soon we were enjoying an excellent lunch and setting our bearings on the nice hotel we would return to after our stay at Rio Cristalino. Victoria, the owner, greeted us warmly, and we looked forward to learning more about her work to preserve Rio Cristalino. We drove about an hour north of the city on a remote dirt road that ended at the river to meet our boats and guides and off we went to the “jungle”!

Imagine our surprise when the first bird Peg spotted atop the canopy at the river’s edge turned out to be a male Amazonian Umbrellabird – wow! We also found Green, Amazon and Ringed Kingfisher right away, and Narca spotted an immature Rufescent Tiger Heron. A breeding-plumage Capped Heron danced excitedly among rocks where glistening fish just the right size for its bill jumped all around it. By boat, we arrived at dusk at the Cristalino Jungle Lodge, after watching a gorgeous sunset over the river.

Sat., Sept. 22 Rio Cristalino Lodge – Tower and River
The fifty meter high tower at Rio Cristalino was a thrilling first morning experience for us – a great way to start our four days of exploring. We ate an early breakfast and walked a beautiful forested trail that wound between weathered granite boulders to reach the metal structure. From here Douglas hoisted our gear on a rope-pulley system to the top, leaving us free to climb. The stairs were firm and in segments of seven steps, with small platforms at two levels along the way providing rest and vantage points. Several of the group stopped about two thirds of the way up, where we were surrounded by trees for an eye level view of the birds. Others continued a bit further up to get totally above the canopy for clear 360-degree viewing. We found Curl-crested Aracari almost right away, and in the distance Red Fan and lovely Orange-bellied Parrots. A Slate-colored Grosbeak joined the endemic Black-girdled Barbet in a tree with few leaves; on this tree we’d later spy several other good species. In the other direction we found Spangled Cotinga perched high for our inspection, then in flew a pair of Plum-throated Cotingas and, in another direction, two cute little White-browed Purpletufts. A morning favorite was the lovely Black-eared Fairy, which came repeatedly in to a cluster of flowers on the tree just adjacent to the platform. Perhaps the sighting that elicited the most enthusiastic response was a very active troop of Brown Capuchin Monkeys that leapt from tree to tree, ripped and fed on fruit and general put on a good show, including sightings of one mother carrying a youngster. Our only mixed species flock came through on a blitz at a good distance, but within the flock we could not mistake beautiful Flame-crested Tanagers. Time passed quickly, but the sweat bees found us in earnest by 9:00 AM and drove us to descend! Walking back to the lodge Narca called in and easily trained her scope on a Black -throated Trogon.

Several of us were hot, but reluctant to go inside for fear we’d miss something great, and we found the exposed rocks by the river an ideal place to observe while relaxing. Above our head a pair of Paradise Jacamar sat for long moments on branches of a dead tree that held a large termite mound, which they appeared to investigate as a possible nest site. They would sally up, make a spectacular loop showing off their long tails and iridescent jade green bodies, and then return to sit motionless – all in our scope view; wow! Across the river we found Glossy Antshrike, a secretive species of the river and an endemic of Brazil we’d hope to find. Time passed quickly, and as we sat clouds gathered.

Just as we finished lunch, a lovely rain started with gusto, forcing us under cover – some in their cabins and others in the cabana just to the river side of the lodge. We had been there to watch the amazing footage two German photographers had taken the day before of a Jaguar at the river’s edge further upstream! Douglas said it was rare to see them here compared to Pantanal; this one was obviously unafraid and gave them some wonderful viewing. We soaked in the ambiance of rain; fresh smells, water dripping from ‘drip tips’ on the leaves, and revived bird activity. Several toucans and aracaris roamed through the grounds, but before we could scope them our attention was drawn to a Bare-faced Currasow feeding down by the lowest, unoccupied bungalow. It was grabbing low fruits that grew on the trunk of a small tree and we got superb views for several minutes.

Our afternoon ride on the river was cool and lovely. Mark and Linda found Capybara resting on the rocks by the dock as we gathered; we all had great views of a Great Black Hawk. Soon we were seeing kingfishers at every turn; a mix of Amazon and Ringed, the two large species here. White-banded and White-winged Swallows danced overhead, and at the tops of trees on both sides of the river plump little Swallowing sallied up for insects, returning to their perches. Shyer birds we were lucky to encounter included Green Ibis and Sunbittern. We found Spectacled, Yellow and Dwarf Caiman, a huge Iguana splayed out midway up the trees and swollen from recently eating, a very large, possibly 20 ft. Amazon (Green) Anaconda. We checked on the Anaconda en route back to the lodge as well, and Narca exclaimed when she found quills in it – it had wrapped around a porcupine and was just covered with them!

Our local guides had keen eyes and found a cluster of red and yellow morpho butterfly larva; a great find after we sorted out the language as the words for lizard and caterpillar are the same Portuguese. One of the loveliest creatures we found was a Rufuscent Tiger Heron; today an adult bird that gave us several elegant poses. Anhinga were abundant, the large Cocoi Heron was fun to see, and we celebrated with ice cold water and beer en route back to the lodge. All agreed that cruising down the river, cool wind in our hair, watching Cuvier’s Toucan, Bare-necked Fruitcrow and Amazonian Umbrellabird, was a “mighty fine” experience.

Sun., Sept. 23 Rio Cristalino
Our group was keen to see monkeys, so Douglas chose a trail they were known to frequent, and we walked a loop back to a salt lick in the forest. Almost right away we came across a group of White-bearded Saki Monkeys quite active in the trees above us. Narca even got a scope on one so we could see all the detail in their rosy pink faces. These are large monkeys with long tails and only in such a remote place would you have hopes to see them – we were thrilled! We also came into a group of Brown Capuchin -- a large troop spread high and low and on both sides of the trail. They kept in touch with bird-like chirping sounds and made wondrous leaps through the canopy. Several females carried young held close as they traveled.

Norma has an eye for butterflies and Rio Cristalino trails had some amazing ones. Time and time again we’d find one that, with closed wings, blended in perfectly with litter on the forest floor, where it would rest. Taking flight it would reveal deep purples or blues or some bright pattern – sometimes with warning signals, or spots that appeared to be eyes. At the salt lick, a small clearing in the forest where clays held last night’s rain in small pools, we found beautiful Red Darter dragonflies, fresh Tapir tracks, and a large number of Plumbeous Pigeon feeding on fruits. There were also Painted Parakeets difficult to see in deep vegetation, and then Pat spied a beautiful Spangled Cotinga; this turquoise jewel was much closer than the one we’d seen from the tower. Above the clearing hawks were soaring; among them Narca spotted first two, and later up to six, King Vulture – their large size and white underwing a signature pattern of healthy wilderness. We finished our walk on a trail that circled around by the river where we got some nice views of Capybara, a Pale-tipped Tyrannulet, and some Yellow-billed Cardinals.

After lunch and a rest, we ventured forth on a boat ride, using the boat as transport to a trailhead upriver, where we got out to walk on a forest trail leading to an enormous ‘grandfather’ Brazil Nut Tree. As a rich food source, even in deforested areas these revered plants were by law allowed to stand – this giant had likely been in the forest close to a hundred years, though in the tropics we have no regular growth rings to easily age a tree core. It took most of our group to wrap arms around the trunk; our local guide excitedly showed us a few young trees taking root around it. He also showed us some of the medicinal plants of the area.

In a part of the forest with dense understory, we were treated to a symphony performed by one bird – the amazing Moustached Wren. Ginny later remarked it was one of the highlights of the trip, hearing the amplified sound of its complex song reverberate through nature. Soon we had worked up a sweat, and at the boat we were hounded by bees – ah, the challenge of staying comfortable in a rainforest! On the river we returned to cool breezes and lo and behold, from the cooler – beer! Motoring home with that and fresh wind in our faces felt divine. Pat Parlette, our dear most experienced world traveler, proclaimed it fine!

After dinner we discussed Amazonia, a difficult talk with mixed emotions, followed by a video filmed at Rio Cristalino of local butterflies. It was called “Ah, Que Pasa?” and presented the life history of these colorful insects, with a lot of amazing footage and scenes from the lodge we’d come to know well.

Mon., Sept. 24 Rio Cristalino
We woke to sounds of Paraque and two species of small owls, the Hardy’s - (Amazonian) Pygmy and the Tawny-bellied Screech. This morning we opted to visit a ridge top forest, where drought deciduous trees were bare, and the understory was a mix of strange ground orchids, bromeliads and stunted shrubs. It was quite a climb up to the ridge, and our wonderful boat drivers Sebastian and Alfredo took great care to help all who wanted an extra hand. At the top we relaxed on rounded slabs of granite, with a superlative view of the rainforest below. Three species of hummingbird came in to the yellow-flowering trees: Rufous-throated Sapphire, Fork-tailed Woodnymph and Black-throated Mango. Later along the trail we would add Plain-capped Starthroat to our list, but in the meantime we lounged a bit, watching the Blackish Nightjars we’d displaced and a pair of Variable Flycatcher. White-browned Purpletufts came in for scope views, and Douglas spotted a White Hawk on the horizon that flew off with nesting material, right to its nest which we could put a scope to. From the flurry of wings and maneuvering in the dense treetop, it appeared to be in the nest-building stage. We had hopes of finding a flock of colorful tanagers, and as they did not come in, we ventured further along the trail, first taking in a marvelous viewpoint built into a substantial granite hillside. The trail was challenging, more climbing up to a level ridge, where white and red barked bare trees lent a surreal and artistic flair. There, we were able to find and scope some colorful beauties: Paradise Flycatcher (trying to consume a giant still-alive cicada), Purple Honeycreeper, and Blue-black Grassquits in their odd transitional season plumage. Further down the trail Brenda spied Green Honeycreepers, but the real show stoppers were three hawks – Gray-lined (formerly Gray) Hawk, Double-toothed Kite and Black Caracara.

Today was HOT, a full 34 degrees Centigrade, and we sweated our way down the hillside. Trying to find Pygmy Antwren amid fogging eyeglasses was exciting (we had success) and sorting through a mixed flock was equally so. The cool breeze of the river was delicious after our hike, and we agreed that this afternoon we’d stick to the natural air-conditioning of the boat rides. Several celebrated a heroic climb!

Lunch was all too plentiful and it was time to rest afterwards. Several of us headed for the dock, where Linda led the swimming, soon followed by Douglas, then followed by the appearance of a small caiman!!! Peg and Mark were thrilled when a flock of Blue and Yellow Macaws flew right over the dock, only to swirl around and land quite close in a tall tree on the shoreline. For the next hour we photographed them in myriad poses as they fed on fruits, preened, bickered, navigated the branches and kept up constant vocal chatter. Jose even brought down cold water and beer so we could sip them while sitting in the shade, never stopping our photography and appreciation of these incredible birds! We called the others to join us, saying “Now THIS is birding…”

At 2:30 we went back out in the boats, heading downriver this time. Before we left all got to admire the macaws, still perched in a nearby tree. We had superb looks at a Sunbittern, and were able to share the location of a roosting Great Potoo, seen earlier by the group that returned by boat from the morning hike, with Mark, Douglas, Roy and Susie, who had hiked 2 kilometers back along the main river. The potoo had changed position a bit, but still looked prehistoric with its odd body shape held rigid like a statue. Once in view, it stood out from the surrounding lush green forest, but only as an oddly shaped top to a weathered snag – what amazing camouflage! We found a group of five wild Muscovy Ducks just before entering the main river, and out in the current picked up Yellow-billed Tern. The Teles Pires River is much wider than the Cristalino and has islands, on which we found a beautiful Pied Lapwing showing off its crisp black and white plumage. Narca radioed for us to look skyward, where we saw 400-500 Purple Martins swirling about – migrants working their way south – what a sight! Our final great sighting of the day was a Red-throated Piping Guan, another species associated with wild, healthy forests. We returned to dinner, and Douglas shared his concerns about the future of Amazonia followed by some of his photos.

Tues., Sept. 25 Rio Cristalino
Today we had two morning options – one for a return to the tower and a second for a boat ride upriver that included a hike in a lovely forest. Both groups were delighted with their selections! Five of us accompanied Benjamin Freeman, the current volunteer at Rio Cristalino and a very talented birder, up to the Tower. To our joy, he described this visit as the best in the seven weeks he had been there! We had a mixed flock come in, and with his help located by sound several birds we’d really hoped to find. Peg made it to the top of the 150 foot tower, an accomplishment for someone fearing heights. Thanks to Brenda’s fine coaching she also made it down!

Douglas led the journey upriver with others of the group to explore a trail new to him, stopping to look at a couple of new birds en route. He reports, “We arrived at Limao, where rocky islands contained a flock of Painted Parakeets; what a delight! The area was previously deforested and is now coming back. The open habitat provided good views of Lined Seedeater and Spotted Tody Flycatcher. We followed an overgrown road that had been cleared, allowing great views of Striolated Puffbird, which responded right away to playback, giving everyone views. As we continued on the forest got taller and we saw the new, yet to be described small ‘Reddish-type’ (Tapejos) Hermit. We had stunning views as well of Channel-billed Toucan which called and posed for our scope study. En route back to the boats, we found a poison dart frog, black with spots of yellow and two parallel yellow back stripes. Two Linneated Woodpeckers working on a dead Cecropia gave us quite a show. Back in the clearing we were treated to flocks of Painted Parakeets, traveling with Yellow-chevroned, White-eyed and Monk Parakeets. The river trip back provided us a great review of species we had seen previously, but we found the stunning Orange-cheeked Parrot, also spotted by our tower group today.”

This was all accomplished before an early lunch and the return drive to Alta Floresta, where we looked forward to the swimming pool and a bit of rest and relaxation, and had hopes of finding the Harpy Eagle. This rare and magnificent species had nested at the hotel the previous year and was seen a few weeks previously still attending a large begging yearling.

A birding stop en route gave us good looks at Red-breasted Blackbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, and Yellow-tufted Woodpecker busy excavating its nest hole. Our first efforts at hiking trails behind the hotel to search for the Harpy were in vain, but we enjoyed the forest with its magnificent old trees, and sunset at the lagoon with the sight of hundreds of cattle egret passing over going to roost, with parrots and macaws intermittently calling and flying over. Two Bat Falcons held court on a large dead snag at one end of the pond, and we had good looks at a Sungrebe just across the water from our viewing area. Dusk brought a parade of Cattle Egrets returning to their roost, mixed with flocks of noisy parrots and macaws, a treat to witness.

Wed., Sept. 26 Hunt for the Harpy / Return Flight to Cuiaba.
We met this morning with a plan to split into two groups, keep in contact by radio and comb the woods to find the Harpy family. Douglas took his group to the left of the property, winding through dense forest hoping at every turn to find the Harpy in one of several potential roost trees. Peg and Narca’s group took a more open route, where they might view birds flying, and found instead several distractions. First, a dozen or more Chestnut-eared Aracari were found sunning themselves on bamboo thickets, arranged like ornaments for a festive holiday. Across the pond, the dock was sagging under the weight of nine Capybara piled up – quite a sight! A vocal pair of Cinnamon-throated Woodcreepers finally lured them into the forest. Narca was thrilled that the impressive Red-necked Woodpecker pair she and Mark had spied the evening previous were in a similar area and all were able to get scope views. Several colorful butterflies pulled eyes to the ground, and then a troop of Black Spider Monkeys brought them up again to the scopes as they moved quickly in large trees across the pond. At a viewing platform the group found one of the loveliest butterflies of the trip, an intricately patterned species known at the Starry Night Cracker. Peg and Brenda so badly wanted to find the Harpy, they made a second loop around the property, where they had glimpses of a Blue-crowned Trogon making some wild sounds (likely associated with a nest) but no Harpy. Our raptor for the day was instead a Black and White Hawk Eagle Peg spied from the airport as we waited for the next stage of our journey – the long-awaited for Pantanal!

Boarding the flight to Cuiaba was blessedly simple (as Pat remarked, like the good-old days!), and we were pleased to see the friendly face of Pedro, our driver, upon arrival. Several of the group wanted to buy stamps for mail or collections at the post office; we sampled the local grocery and then set out for the hotel. Finally were underway to Pantanal! We drove into Pocone, crossed through the entrance gate to Pantanal, and by nightfall were comfortably settled into our rooms at the Posada Piuval.

Thurs., Sept. 27 Pantanal: Pousada – Exploring the Transpantanera
Mark described the day as the day of the incredible morning walk. How right he was! We gathered before breakfast to stroll the ranch grounds . Just out the door we found a large number of Wood Stork and Limpkin grazing in pastures, and in the distance, our first sighting of Greater Rhea and Jabiru. It was fun to watch the cowboys bringing in horses for the day’s work. Our first Hyacinth Macaw came so easily – we had super views of a pair in a palm, right in the yard full of ranch equipment and livestock! Everywhere we looked we found birds – Cattle Tyrant, Vermilion Flycatcher, Turquoise-fronted Parrots, Purplish Jay, Toco Toucan, Campo Flicker, and White-rumped Monjito, a type of flycatcher. We saw several comical Southern Caracara that appeared to be with just-fledged young. Narca’s keen eye picked up an Upland Sandpiper, one of the northern migrants passing through. A young biologist, Marial, accompanied us. She was there to work with tourists and also with students who visited the ranch for environmental education. After breakfast, we presented her with our school supplies to help the project, and she and the owner were obviously delighted. They had thirty students due in to study wildlife on Brazil’s Day of the Child, so our timing was just right.

At about 8:30 we gathered our things, and headed down to Kilometer 63 and our next night’s lodgings on the bank of the Pixium River. There was so much to see! We stopped so often we wondered if we’d make it there by dinner, rather than lunch when we were expected. We found Jabiru, Woodstork, Snail Kites, Black-collared, Great Black and Savannah Hawks. Narca spotted two small Little Brocket Deer and soon afterwards we found two gorgeous buck Marsh Deer quite close to our vehicle. This rare species is making a comeback and they seemed little concerned by our presence, posing quite nicely for photos. We had fun at a wayside refreshment spot, where White-headed Woodpeckers came in to join Bay-winged Cowbird, Chaco Chachalaca and both Yellow-billed and Crested (Brazilian) Cardinals at the feeder. Cool drinks tasted divine in the heat, already oppressive by mid-day. The pool at our hotel proved to be very refreshing, and in the late afternoon we were happy to venture out again, further down the road, in search of other wildlife. We ventured far enough out that we came back by dark, having found two Tapir and Rufous and Little Nightjars. Roy enjoyed the food here as much as any on the trip; tonight they featured a delicious fish so large we ate the “ribs”.

Fri., Sept. 28 Pantanal: Pixium River / Pouso Alegre
We met our boatman at dawn on the dock of the hotel. It was evident from the start that this man had cultivated a relationship with local wildlife as caiman came right up to the boat looking for a snack of fish as we were loading. It was a very LARGE caiman and a bit unnerving within arm’s length of our seats! Further upstream a Jabiru appeared unusually curious about our presence, and then readily approached for its reward of a piranha. A Black-collared Hawk swept down as well, dipping its talons in the water to snatch its gifted prey. Less acclimated species delighted us as well – Green Ibis, Ringed Kingfisher and a lovely Pygmy Kingfisher which sat as if a sculpture as we approached. We inched in for close up photographs, and then turned our attentions to a very fat, photogenic Capybara. After all we’d been eating there were several jokes about our resemblance to its physique. We motored up to a quiet and wide part of the river with sand beaches rimmed by groves of trees. For years our guide has visited a family of Giant Otter that move from this spot to the place upstream our Jabiru had waited for its snack; today they were here, and came rushing out to greet us -- quite a sight! Three heads and nimble strong bodies coursed through the water, rising up to look at us, at which time we could see the individual patterns of chest spots characteristic of the species. They made grunting sounds, splashed a lot, and at times retreated under the shelter of tree limbs overhanging the water. Douglas called to them as well, a less-frequently heard voice seemed to pique their curiosity and we got some excellent views of what is normally a rare mammal. We worried about their vulnerability, being so acclimated to the boat approaching, and learned that someone had shot the lead male of the group quite tragically. Locals were alarmed, as for some 20 years Giant Otter have been seen here in this way; one can only hope that local interest and familiarity can help protect them where fishing is popular in the Pantanal.

We had a wonderful morning viewing wildlife from the boat; then returned for breakfast and a chance to see what was at the fruit and seed feeders. Activity was high, so we lingered in our chairs, sipping good Brazilian coffee. A Chestnut-eared Aracari was the real show stopper; what a delight to see its rainbow of colors – in body and beak – at such close range. We tore ourselves away, wanting to drive the road to our next lodge before the afternoon heat. We stopped many times to observe Woodstork, Roseate Spoonbill, Caped Heron, Marsh Deer, Jabiru, a troop of Black and Gold Howler Monkey, Capybara families and Rusty-backed Antwren. All of us searched and searched for Giant Anteater, which had been seen by another group the previous day, but alas, no luck on that species.

We made it to Pouso Alegre for a late lunch. The setting of this fazenda is lovely, with islands of trees holding numerous palms that attract several resident pair of Hyacinth Macaw. One pair was there to greet us, though like us they sought shade and did not want to come out in the sun! We took refuge on the front porch of the main building, where we could watch Greater Rhea graze alongside ranch horses under massive mango trees. Several species of parrot and parakeet came in to feed on the unripe fruit, making for entertaining viewing even when we were on ‘slow speed’ in the heat of mid-day. One Greater Rhea male had a covey of 18 chicks which he kept moving towards tall grass where they would be well hidden. After siestas, we gathered to walk on the ranch property, making a loop around a small pond. The outrageous long bill of Red-billed Scythebill amazed everyone in the group and we had good looks at Great Antshrike and White-lored Spinetail as well. Dinner came leisurely, so we chatted on the veranda and unwound after a very productive wildlife-rich day. After dinner we ventured out for the first of our evening spotlighting adventures, and had good great looks at nine individual Crab-eating Fox, eleven Crab-eating Racoons, and two large, grazing Tapir. Returning to our lodgings, we spotted several nightbirds, including Paraque, and Band-tailed and Lesser Nightjars.

Sat., Sept. 29 Pantanal: Pousada Alegre Lagoons & Ranch
Our last full day in the Pantanal began with a grand adventure, a drive to a remote part of the ranch that held water year round. Tonino was willing to give the little-used road a try, and he and the ranch worker Paulo put their axes to work cutting several large branches that blocked our way. One stop for a large overhanging branch turned out to be fortuitous, as we found a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl just up the road! It was quite curious and cooperative as all of us got good looks in the scope. Narca found an Ashy-headed Vireo, perhaps one of the prettiest of the vireos, and two Short-crested Flycatchers. We continued on, admiring the size of a rhea egg left in the nest (perhaps of the father we had seen with 18 chicks our first afternoon!) and several other species along the way. Frisky calves, born in late August, played in the open fields; jacaranda decorated the tree islands, leaving purple carpets of petals we could glimpse as we approached. We stopped shy of the lake and walked in on a trail. Douglas heard an Undulated Tinamou and gathered us all to wait silently. He softly played a tape and this secretive bird came towards us in the dense understory. It stayed well hidden in the shadows, but with patience we all got to see it well. We also found Mato Grosso Antbird in dense shrubbery, six bright male Purple-throated Euphonia on the bare branches of dry deciduous trees and a Pygmy Kingfisher at the lake edge. Elaine found a Cream-colored Woodpecker, one of the large showy Celeus Woodpecker clan – this one with blond crest and back, with just a pattern in the wing. We celebrated reaching the lake with ice-cold water back at the truck, and worked our way back as the morning heat began to rise. We stopped at a cattle pond with large trees for shade and enjoyed seeing several species clearly – Whistling Heron, Ringed Kingfisher, Sunbittern, Black-collared Hawk and Great Black Hawk were all present. Rusty-backed Spinetail was a new species for us; it joined a pair of Great Antshrike in some dense shrubbery on the shore. Temperatures in the shade were tolerable, and we could look out upon grazing cattle, picturesque groups of palms that provide fruit for Hyacinth Macaws, and bright blooms of a pink morning glory plant that peppered the dry pasture where cattle had cut short the otherwise tall grasses. Back at the ranch house, a troop of Brown Capuchins had joined the various parrots and parakeets working over the ripe mangos on large trees in the yard. They put on quite a show, along with Monk and Yellow-chevroned Parakeets, all trying to get to the heavy sweet fruits.

Afternoon in Pantanal is HOT, Douglas’ small thermometer was reading 111 today in the shade. Most of the group rested; Peg, Douglas and Mark kept taking photographs, when possible, of subjects in the shade. We did rally for a call from Douglas that he had found Long-tailed Ground Dove just outside the gate – a beautiful dove with patterned wings and a gold circle around the eye. Hyacinth Macaws kept up a constant racket as we explored; four pair in total that would sometimes fly together, other times break into pairs. One pair had a third bird with it, slightly duller in color – likely last year’s chick. We got stunning views of this bird, with temperatures so high they were almost always in deep shade; a challenge for the photographers!

At 4:00 we gathered to hear Narca’s closing comments on the Pantanal; we reviewed its extensive range on a map, and pondered several questions inspired by what we had seen and experienced. The ranch had interesting paintings done by Elizabeth’s sister, two sets of three – each set a series of the same view, at different times of year from full flood to our view in late September – close to the peak of dry conditions. Narca and Douglas headed out for a walk with many of the group, and Peg, Brenda, Elaine and Linda saddled up to ride with Paolo. Our ranch horses were steady and knew their task, they carried us out to see Marsh and Brocket Deer, a gorgeous sunset view of Jabiru in their nest, and beautiful views of Pantanal in all directions. It was fun to trot along with a small breeze, drinking in the sense of endless space and tranquility. We came back to rest and visit on the porch before dinner, and returned for one last night of spotlighting. Crab-eating Fox were again fairly abundant and we saw two families of Crab-eating Racoon. The male tapir we had spotted the night before was close to the same area, so we had another view of this rare and difficult to spot animal. However, we were tired and spoiled from the previous night’s amazing success, and decided to cut this one short and head on home with time for a good night’s rest before tomorrow’s travels.

Sun., Sept. 30- Thurs., Oct. 4 Jaguar River Extension
Five of us continued on to try to spot elusive Jaguars known to frequent a reserve on the Paraguay River, near a delightful, upscale fishing lodge that would be our welcoming lodgings for several nights. We said good-bye to Narca and those of the group returning home, and Peg, Douglas, Ginny, Susie and Roy stayed. Peg had to get a photo of Susie in the giant plastic Jabiru-covered phone booth, earning us the smiles and whistles of locals. Driving to our boat launch location, Susie spotted a Maned Wolf dead in the road; how we would have loved to see it alive! The drive passed through lovely mountainous scenery, sadly obscured by smoke, which was only increasing from that we’d previously experienced during this drought time on the Pantanal.

Lunch at Cacares was divine as we tried several variations of the local ‘catfish’ fresh from the river. One dish had Bahia coconut oil in the sauce, and was beautifully presented within a rim of mashed potatoes. Another had capers and mushrooms, and a third was prepared with a soufflé topping. Our trip food had been good, but quite routine; we had a grand time sampling new flavors and quenching our thirst with cold beer. In a relaxed mood we met Gilson, our local guide and boat driver, who had an incredible talent for spotting local wildlife. We stopped to view Large-billed Terns resting on a sandbar with hundreds of Black Skimmer, countless Wood Stork and two, dapper Pied Lapwing. We motored downriver for about an hour and half before seeing a bright yellow hotel. Our rooms surrounded a delightful pool, and from our porches and the dining area we had great views of the river. The owner greeted us excitedly to say he had seen a Maned Wolf the day before! As others relaxed, Peg had to go out to try to spot it. Sightings of two Collared Peccary, a Bat Falcon and a Yellow-legged Tortoise were her consolation prize. We cheered our upcoming adventure with a round of “Green Drinks” followed by a delicious dinner.

The first day we stayed close to the hotel, visiting several spots along the river where cats had been seen in the past, or where we hoped to find other wildlife. We walked on a neighboring ranch where Hyacinth Macaws had been seen at eye-level investigating a potential nest hole. They were not present, but we saw good numbers of several other species, including Nanday Parakeet, which we had not seen before. We had to cut our visit short, as thick smoke was rapidly closing in on us from a nearby fire, and it was too difficult to see or breathe. Luckily we’d spotted a few new species at the start – Chotoy Spinetail and Scarlet-headed Blackbird. We motored up and down the river, enjoying views of Osprey, White-faced Whistling Duck, numerous Capybara, huge Caiman, Roseate Spoonbill in good numbers, and another troop of Black and Gold Howler Monkey. Along the river we got quite close to several pair of Southern Screamer, Pale-legged Hornero, and the usually secretive Band-tailed Antwren. Gilson spotted a beach just full of Iguana and we had to laugh as they raised up on two legs to run fast to the forest as we slowed to better see them. Several pair of Golden-collared Macaws crossed the river, a species we’d not seen at close range before. Lunch and a siesta were welcome, as well as some free time. We’d kept up a pretty keen pace for two weeks, and just needed time to do laundry, catch up on journals and relax.

Douglas had a splendid surprise in store for us that first afternoon. We took a boat ride downriver to a rookery site where over 2000 Wood Storks were present, along with hundreds of Roseate Spoonbill, Snowy and Great Egret and Neotropical Cormorant. We cut the motor and floated silently past the colony, taking in the sight, sound (and smell!) of so many birds. It was a beautiful experience to end the day, and we retired early after a delicious meal to be ready for serious cat searching in the morning.

We were anxious to search for Jaguar, and that we did, for 10 hours, to no avail, until Day TWO. When we finally spotted two cats resting alongside the river, it was a rich, indelible experience for all of us. We spent almost forty minutes with the cats, which were totally wild, and just not that concerned about our presence. Part of our pleasure was the gift of time with Gilson, who had made impressive sightings of other species the day before, and now this time – Jaguar. He knew just how to approach them, racing quickly by them at first, then returning at high speed upriver as if we were passing by. He then cut the motor, and we floated silently by the near side of the river, the only sound the clicking of cameras. We made three passes by the cats this way, with breaks in between. On the third pass they got up casually, looking us right in the eye, then slowly threaded their way through tall grasses. One had a very black tail; each had a unique face pattern. Douglas and Gilson had been gathering data on the cats for years now, and recognized one individual right away. To see them so close, and in such a relaxed manner, was truly extraordinary. We remained euphoric all day, and while we did not spot other cats, we had a grand time looking at Giant Otter, Capybara with Cattle Egrets perched on their backs, a huge snake at one of our rest stops and, at several locations, tracks of additional Jaguar. Each day we rested mid-day in hammocks along the river after a great cooked lunch of meat, bread, cheese and tomatoes. From our hammocks we watched Black-fronted Nunbird, Blue-crowned Trogon, and Brown Capuchin monkeys. Smoke from local fires continued to plague us – Roy pointed to the sun at 4:00 PM one day and it was a red orb, as if sunset were occurring. For these several days we soaked up the rhythm of the river, ate way too much good food, went back over our great memories of almost three weeks in Brazil, and fretted about the future of the Pantanal. We also remained elated that after diligent effort, we had all finally spotted Jaguar!

All photos by Peg Abbott.

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