Colorado Rockies
July 2005 - Trip Report

Sun., July 24 Arrival / Birding Barr Lake / Rainstorm in the Rockies!
Our Denver arrivals went amazingly well, despite the expanse and double terminals of this innovative airport. As a result, we had time to run the first group of participants out to nearby Barr Lake State Park, home base for the Colorado Bird Observatory and just a nice place to bird. Sandra McNew -- a frequent traveler with Naturalist Journeys and a Denver resident -- went ahead to scout and was there to meet the group.

Peg returned to the airport, while the group at the park explored the boardwalk trail and lakeshore, delighting in Bullock’s Oriole, White Pelican, Cassin’s and Western Kingbirds, and more. The real highlight was a mammal: the Short-tailed Weasel! Sandra spotted this gem, but all were a bit alarmed at the drama of nature unfolding before them, as it was clear it was after Killdeer chicks. Everyone got great looks, even at the little black tip of the tail.

Once Al and Peg returned we walked a bit further, as a storm brewed to the west. We watched a Swainson’s Hawk (a gorgeous light-phase adult) being absolutely pummeled by a band of raging kingbirds -- the Chihuahua dogs of the bird world! American Goldfinch fed on thistles; we also saw two beautiful butterflies – a Western Swallowtail and a Red Admiral, the latter posing for close up photos.

We navigated towards Estes Park, using short-cut directions from the woman at the State Park, with a bit of doubt, but they turned out to be brilliant, and soon we were winding our way between cliffs of lovely Lyons Sandstone – hard and pink colored, a great frame for the St. Vrain River. We picked up more birds en route – California Gull, Double-crested Cormorant, and our first bird of the mountains – Black-billed Magpie. A driving rain soon set in, a marvel of light and power. This great first day was topped off by a super welcome dinner at the Lakeshore Lodge. We thoroughly enjoyed introductions, good conversation and some delicious entrees.

Mon., July 25 Sprague Lake / Bear Lake / Hollowell Valley / Cub Lake
We started at “lower” (8,000-9,000 ft.) elevations today to let everyone acclimate a bit. This let us explore a lot in the Ponderosa Pine and mixed conifer habitats, and we were fortunate to see a lot of birds and mammals throughout the day. We made our first stop just past the park’s visitor’s center at Beaver Meadows to observe and photograph two really gorgeous Mule Deer bucks. The older of the two was pretty oblivious to cars and people, barely lifting his head from feeding frenetically on Cliffrose; the smaller male was far shyer. The two together in a meadow full of wildflowers were most memorable!

Alex helped us name many of the flowers here – Wild Gaillardia, Wild Rose, Richardson’s Geranium, Evening Primrose, Penstemon, and more. The Ponderosa at this elevation rose tall and healthy – this year just loaded with cones. Janet found and tasted a Red (Waxy) Currant, their abundance a promise of good food for wildlife in the months to come. We headed on, stopping for a short time by a wetland meadow where we watched Violet-green and Barn Swallows and had good views of Song Sparrow. Western Shooting Star, one of the flowers Alex studied in detail as part of her research, was still in bloom at the stream’s edge.

Sprague Lake was full of life: we found adult birds of several species busy feeding their very vocal young, making it easier to spot and watch the birds. Families of Dark-eyed Juncos (gray-headed race), Mountain Chickadee, and Yellow-rumped Warbler were all easy to approach, and we saw a most striking juvenile Williamson’s Sapsucker. A scruffy Red-naped Sapsucker and a scolding Red Squirrel vied for our attention, and in thick willows Peg spotted a McGuillivray’s Warbler. As the others came down for a look, a tiny Calliope Hummingbird zipped by our noses! Walking around the lake, as wind and rain brought cold conditions; we found two piles of fluffy Mallard chicks huddled in the grass. As they sought each other’s warmth, two rather nonchalant mothers made visits but did not attempt to brood these fast-rowing young. We saw Ring-necked Duck as well and enjoyed grand vistas of the mountains.

Bear Lake was far more crowded. While we little wildlife except Red and Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels, the walk was worth it for fine views of Hallet Peak, flat-topped Long’s Peak, and the remnant of Tyndale Glacier, one of five remaining glaciers in Rocky Mountain National Park. Linda spotted a vibrant patch of Stonecrop growing on the granite, and Sandra spotted the eggplant colored clusters of Whipple’s Penstemon.

We chose a lunch spot at Hollowell Park with a super view; driving in Peg had a quick look at Sharp-shinned Hawk being chased off by a mob of American Crow. Young Black-billed Magpie were comical, and we had a great flight show by a Red-tailed Hawk, followed by a Stellar’s Jay that imitated the Red-tailed’s call. With teamwork we had fresh veggies cut up and a great spread of lunch fixings out in no time.

Then we drove to the Cub Creek Trailhead, where everyone proceeded at their own pace: some heading for the lake (about 4.5 mi. round trip), and others keen to see the many birds and flowers. Wild Bergamot bloomed profusely, and we watched had a Monarch feeding on them. We saw Digger Bees and bumblebees pollinating busily, and flowers too numerous to list. Golden-glow (in the same genus as Coneflower) and Black-eyed Susan’s filled the meadow. Flycatchers put on a great show – first a very tame Least Flycatcher active near a small pond, and then a more secretive Willow Flycatcher, in a thick grove of its namesake shrub. Farther up the trail we encountered newly fledged Cordilleran Flycatchers with huge bright gapes and almost no tail. They were really loud, and one incited an aggressive fly-by from a Rufous Hummingbird! We finally got a look at a perched Broad-tailed Hummingbird after hearing dozens of them trilling about. Ann, Phil, and Al also had a look at this beauty off the porch at our lodge, feeding on flowers in hanging baskets.

Rain moved in, though not heavily enough to daunt us; the dramatic light and cool temperatures made hiking very enjoyable. Several made it to the lake -- more of a pond actually -- where they enjoyed views of the high mountains, raindrops pattering amid Pond Lily, and the distant scream of a possible Northern Goshawk. Ann and Janet found a basking group of Mallard that were still posing, enjoying a day at the beach, as the other Mallards came down. We made a final stop at the visitor’s center for a book-buying spree before returning to Lakeshore Lodge and gathering for dinner.

Tues., July 26 Sheep Lakes / Alluvial Fan Area / Endovalley / Fall River Road / Alpine Visitor’s Center / Trail Ridge Road
After a great buffet breakfast with lots of fresh fruit and hot entrees, we were ready to strike out again. After meeting Cathy Cooper (a frequent traveler with Naturalist Journeys who was in the area visiting family) and her two cousins, we drove through the Fall River entrance of the park to stop at Sheep Lakes, a salt-rich wetland area often visited by Bighorn Sheep. We glassed the area in detail and spoke with park rangers who monitor the site, but found no sheep today. A few Killdeer patrolled a pond in the meadow, a baby Black-billed Magpie tried out its entire vocal repertoire on us, and Richardson’s Ground Squirrels were abundant.

We then went to an unannounced SNIPE HUNT – ambling first through lovely flowers and aspen groves looking for birds. We went off trail, finding Song Sparrow and House Wren tending young, and Lincoln’s Sparrow along the stream. A female Mule Deer approached very close, coming down to drink, alert as if she had left her calf for the outing. She seemed unaware of us, and then jumped the bank and trotted away once she realized we were there. We found Lady’s Tresses, Green Bog Orchid, and Yellow Paintbrush. On the branch of a lone spruce along the river several young Tree Swallows lined up, hanging on with tiny feet and waiting for the brilliant blue males to bring them insect morsels.

At this point we could have turned around and kept dry, but we opted to make a loop, and began hopping from mound to mound of vegetation in the flooded meadow to navigate back to the car. “Snipe!” Alex called out, as she startled the first one out of the brush. Then several more flew up as we wound our way back – one just three feet in front of Janet. Our mound hopping was slow going; finally Janet said loudly “heck with it!” and walked in the mud on a straight course back to the van. We followed her, laughing, then seeking clear water to wash off our shoes once we were out of the muck.

Then it was on to the nearby Alluvial Fan Trail. Phil was our hero here, as he spotted an American Dipper in the rushing stream, and it too was feeding a baby! We all found perches on the rocks and watched with great enjoyment as the adult fed successfully -- often in tremendously fast water – before returning to the baby, bobbing in the water with orange gape open and ready. Back in the parking lot baby Stellar’s Jay and Black-billed Magpie called from the enormous Ponderosa Pine that rimmed the picnic area – July proving to be the time of begging babies!

On to our own lunch at Endovalley, which 50 years ago as Jean’s favorite camping area. Now a picnic area only, it was still a special site; with a large mixed conifer forest and a rushing stream (one she used to put her beer in). We had a great lunch, enjoying conversation amid a few raindrops and some gathering mist. We walked up the stream to an irrigation structure, finding a family of Brown Creeper (now added to the feeding babies list). They were very tame, working between aspen and spruce trunks in the company of more elusive Pygmy Nuthatch. While crossing the old wooden bridge, Peg caught a glimpse of a quick Northern Water Shrew popping into the water from the bank and deftly swimming away. We found some forest wildflowers, including true Solomon’s Seal and some vibrant Indian Paintbrush.

In the afternoon we gambled a bit. The clouds and mist were dropping lower – was it worth heading farther up to make the one-way loop of Fall River to the Trail Ridge Roads as planned? We decided to try and had great luck: as we drove up in elevation, stopping at lovely Chasm Falls en route, the skies began to clear. At first it was just a bit of blue on the high horizon, then very quickly the whole valley opened up below. We stopped for a long view of the valleys and tundra at the headwaters of Fall Creek, finding dozens of Elk and three Mule Deer at various grazing spots. Al spotted two magnificent Elk bulls we were able to watch in the scope, and Peg spotted a group with many still-spotted fawns. The flowers carpeted the area: Elephant Head, Bistort, Colorado Columbine, Whipple’s and other Penstemons, a brighter, smaller Indian Paintbrush, Sandwort, and more. Large patches of snow framed the entire scene, and the sense of green and growth was overwhelming – a prime scene of summer in the Colorado Mountains!

A little farther up the road, Cathy and Al spotted a perched Prairie Falcon, and we were able to train the scope on it. It never left the rock as we gazed at more flowers and a small group of American Pipit busy feeding in the area. We lingered long time here, as there was so much to see, and then ventured a bit higher to walk a trail in the tundra, hoping for sightings of White-tailed Ptarmigan. We found Yellow-bellied Marmots, sunning themselves on this now brilliant day. At the Alpine Visitor’s Center, we found hot drinks (yum) and abundant shopping – Linda emerged as the shopping queen for the day. We could not have started down the mountain at a more beautiful time: fingers of mist and clouds were returning, swirling around the eastern sides of the peaks and leaving our side in sun, while the area we were venturing into was swathed in clouds. The patterns of light and cloud were dramatic, the expanse of tundra immense. We passed by close-up views of metamorphic rock to continue down and to dinner, having enjoyed a very full and productive day. Several of the group went into town to enjoy Italian food at Dunraven Downtown, a good meal and good fun at the end of our day.

Wed., July 27 Trail Ridge Road / Grand Lake
We woke to bright cloudless skies – the perfect recipe for a day above treeline. At our first stop, Many Parks Curve, we had a great overview of the valleys below, including the meanders of the Fall River at the Sheep Lakes area that we had visited our first morning. At Rainbow Curve we got close-up views of both adult and juvenile Clark’s Nutcrackers, Colorado Chipmunks, Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels, and a Dark-eyed Junco trying to get in on the act. Several park visitors ignored all signs and pleas not to feed them, so the animals contently landed on outstretched hands to sample peanuts and other offerings. Still, for us it was a great chance to learn about Clark’s Nutcrackers and their fascinating habits of storing and retrieving seeds.

A bit farther up the road we screeched to a halt, this time for flowers. After safely parking, we walked back on the road to a veritable garden, along a creek cascading through steep sub-alpine forest. Here we got a distant look at Pine Grosbeak and found Mountain Bluebells, abundant Larkspur, Indian Paintbrush, and several yellow composites. Alex demonstrated the adaptations of several bumblebee species to the various flower shapes. Shy of scenic Forest Canyon Overlook we tried very hard to turn up the elusive Ptarmigan, with no luck; but we certainly appreciated the mountain vistas and carpets of flowers, particularly Stonecrop, Phlox, and Moss Campion. New to us was Geyer’s Onion with its nodding, magenta flower head. We had split into two groups, communicating by our walkie-talkies, but after 45 minutes or so we had no sightings of the Ptarmigan, only Horned Lark, and opted to move on.

At Forest Canyon, eagle-eyed Al found us another group of Elk, grazing on the greenest swales of a far slope. Ann spotted a Yellow-bellied Marmot closer in on a ridge. Then, at the stone wall of the overlook, we were delighted to find marmots and Pika (a member of the rabbit family) quite close and active. The Pika -- a new mammal for several of the group -- were busy cutting their hay crops for winter, while the marmots seemed intent on licking mineral salts, perhaps more available after recent rains.

At Rock Cut (12, 110 ft. we walked the Tundra Nature Trail, where we found Horned Lark and a Mountain Bluebird, the latter a life-bird for Ann. Watching these brilliant males against the yellow of Stonecrop and paintbrush – wow! To be on top of the world like this, with full sun and little wind was a true gift! We admired the granite and metamorphic rock in the foreground, and the maze of peaks behind. Alas, still no Ptarmigan, though a large herd of Elk crossing a snowfield was a good consolation prize.

Now watching for Brown-capped Rosy Finch, we lunched at a spot with a fine view of a broad cirque basin. Each snowfield had its attendant American Pipits, hopping about picking up moths and other insects. There were run-off channels and many good habitat features, including steep cliffs, but alas, no Rosy Finches. (Ultimately, this species was another no-show, though not for lack of trying!) An American Robin joined us at the picnic, and Janet spotted abundant Violet-green Swallows by the cliffs. We soaked up the sun while feasting on cherries and other goodies before continuing to the Alpine Visitor Center. There, five members of our group and Peg elected to take a four-mile, downhill hike across tundra and into the sub-alpine realm of trees. What a treat to take off away from the road, with open skies, flower filled slopes, views of distant tarn lakes, and time to watch a family of marmot. Alex took others down to Cache la Poudre Lake and Lake Irene, where they studied Elephant Head flowers, watched Gray Jay feeding young, and then went searching for Moose. They returned with the car to reunite the group so we could drive down the winding course of the Colorado River towards Grand Lake.

Remembering the sight of a gracious lodge at the end of Grand Lake, we went there hoping for some fine dining -- but instead found more of a mass-production buffet. Though the food was good, the alterations to this venerable old lodge were sad to see: they had stuffed the genteel lobby with gift stores, and now charged a premium for seating on the porch. We ate quickly and headed for “home,” searching in vain for Moose en route but finding herds of Elk feeding in the lush meadows instead. Atop Trail Ridge Road we encountered, right at sunset, a group of 300 or more Elk cows with their calves, many bedded down. This beautiful sight was enhanced by the discovery of four HUGE Elk bulls bedded down just at the skyline, with sunset-tinted clouds as their backdrop. The whole mood of the alpine realm was different at this time of day, and we enjoyed the ride home – another wonderful day!

Thurs., July 28 Sheep Lakes / Upper Beaver Meadows / Wild Basin / Calypso Cascades
We made our first stop this morning at the McGregor Ranch area, an enviably peaceful spot framed by mountain vistas all around. From there we could see the Twin Owls, two spectacular rock formations; as we studied them we spotted White-throated Swifts flying above. A very tame Hammond’s Flycatcher also flitted about, and the small aspen grove at the trailhead hosted a verdant array of wildflowers. Walking into the grove to see what we’d find, we were rewarded by very close looks at an avidly feeding Broad-tailed Hummingbird.

Because we really wanted to see Bighorn Sheep, we drove back past the salt lick area en route to Beaver Meadows -- but alas, the sheep had not been sighted for some 10 days now. Taking the cutover trail back to Trail Ridge Road, we enjoyed the views from a scenic overlook of the valley’s meanders, as well as the very tame Stellar’s Jays that came to call.

At a little knoll overlooking Beaver Meadows, we stopped to watch a family of Mountain Bluebirds. The males’ sky-blue color is a showstopper, and we enjoyed seeing once again the antics of the begging young. Alex spotted a Say’s Phoebe in the vicinity; at the end of the road we came close to a waiting Common Raven, but it left us for some prey in the meadow. Alex found several fascinating invertebrates. We ambled across the meadow and up and over a pine-clad ridge, hoping to see a Northern Three-toed Woodpecker. Instead we contented ourselves with a family of Northern Flicker, a really great look at Hairy Woodpecker, Brown Creeper, and Red-breasted Nuthatch. We also spotted a family of Dusky Flycatcher; though we only saw the juveniles clearly as the parents were busy catching moths. We had our picnic here, lots of fresh fruit and veggies still, and once again we ate enough to founder!

Peg had promised some shopping time in Estes Park; so several of the gang headed to town while the others returned for a rest at the hotel. Once we were reunited (the shoppers having sampled local ice-cream and packed away the chocolate and wine they had bought), we headed south on Highway 7 for our final outing of this journey, the Wild Basin area of the park.

It turned out to be a great time to be there – a cool and shady contrast to the now warm weather. We each walked at our own pace, with one group staying fairly close to the scenic falls where they could watch a family of American Dipper. About half the group pushed on, wanting to see Calypso Cascades and to stretch our legs on one last hike. On a trail following a rushing stream we saw some wonderful new flowers, including a Pyrola and another orchid. This area was obviously a wet one: near the falls all the rocks and trees were festooned with lichen, and moss lined the hiking trail. Peg and Sandra made an attempt to see Black Swift, reported in an area above Calypso Cascades, but saw instead a fairly dark Merlin, flying quickly across the forest with prey in its talons. The sight of adult birds feeding their young (and demonstrating a myriad of methods to keep the chow coming) was the ribbon that threaded through this entire trip!

We had some extra time at the trailhead before returning for dinner, so Peg whipped out her laptop to show slides of the trip, thoroughly enjoyed by all! We then headed to the Fawn Brook Inn for a final dinner that rated a 10+ in the epicurean realm. The leisurely pace and intimate log cabin setting (with hummingbirds all around) – what a LOVELY dining experience! We enjoyed the various courses and entrees while summing up the week’s experiences. We declared July the month of babies, but it easily could have been the month of flowers. Though we missed seeing certain sought-after birds (i.e., the Rosy Finch and the White-tailed Ptarmigan), we had a super week studying alpine ecology and watching some great wildlife in an unparalleled mountain landscape.

Fri., July 29 Return to Denver Via Big Thompson Canyon

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