Canadian Rockies
July 2005 - Trip Report

Friday, July 8 Calgary / Banff / Bow Lake
Welcome to Canada! Both Thursday evening and this morning’s arrivals came out of customs to a festive western atmosphere, this being the start of the famous Calgary Stampede! Three women in cowgirl hats offered to brand us, accompanied by a lively country band. Luckily we found each other easily despite the crowds, and soon were on our way!

Navigating through Calgary was our main challenge, but soon we were on the TransCanada Highway, heading toward towering mountains. It has been a wet spring, and the prairie was as green as Ireland, dotted with small lakes. The Bow River was rushing. We passed the Olympic Park ski jumps, with their memories of the 1988 Winter Olympics held in Calgary. This was a first visit for many of our group; already they were enchanted with the scenery.

Soon our highway narrowed, and the light show on the high peaks was stunning on this partly cloudy day. We stopped for photos, and then again at the information center near Banff. At Lake Louise we took some time at an excellent visitor’s center, which did a good job of portraying the area’s sedimentary geology. A Clark’s Nutcracker greeted us in the parking lot and we had our first look at a Columbia Ground Squirrel. Exhibits inside depicted the conditions under which each major layer was created, and then the powerful forces that thrust layer upon layer, often in a confusing sequence where older layers now lay atop younger strata. We could see this as we continued on, particularly in Castle Mountain, a major feature of the landscape. Once past the Lake Louise area we began to climb, and passed a series of opal-colored lakes. Joette spotted a pair of Common Loon and we did a fast turnabout – what a delight as a handsome adult came close to shore, allowing for excellent photos. We checked into Num-Ti-Jah lodge, away from the crowds and nestled on the shore of magnificent Bow Lake. Nothing like a glacier and a rushing waterfall in view from your bedroom window!

After settling in, we enjoyed an elegant dinner of beef tenderloin, followed by luscious chocolate fondue, served in the cozy library.

Saturday July 9 Peyto Lake Overlook / Bow Summit / Bow Glacier Falls
We started the day at a leisurely pace, although the beauty and singing birds drew Marilyn out by 6:00 Am. Several others were out by 7:00. A Fox Sparrow sang his little heart out atop a spindly spruce, and two Red Crossbills were busy in trees around the lake, joined by Pine Siskin. Our walk in the morning was to the overlook at Peyto Lake, a short drive from our lodge. Immediately up the trail, a very tame pair of Pine Grosbeak fed on the ground and low in the vegetation, allowing a view for all. The wildflower display was grand – Valerian, Yellow, Pink and White Heather, Columbine, Lousewort and Western Anemone. Though we were joined by many people coming from the bus parking lot, in between groups we had the viewing platform to ourselves. The impact of seeing the intense color of the lake, surrounded below by dense forests and above by towering peaks, is difficult to describe. The view is truly stunning, from the glacial delta at the inlet to the curving shape of the shore. We came up with totally unoriginal exclamations – “wow” was uttered again and again. After taking many photos, we tore ourselves away, and continued on a loop trail called Bow Summit. More flowers delighted us, and Gail led us up a steep incline to an old fire road. Owen described it as vigorous; indeed it was, but afforded us some spectacular views back to the lake and on to other peaks of the area. Bud, Gingy and Richard spotted our first Hoary Marmot and we got great views of both Chipping and Fox Sparrow.

In the afternoon we gathered for a walk right outside our door, around the lake to Bow Glacier Falls. Gail spotted a dark phase Swainson’s Hawk right over our heads, and we soon saw another, quite high towards the top of Simpson Peak. On the lakeshore we found Spotted Sandpiper and Killdeer, while Richard had a quick glimpse at a likely female Blackpoll Warbler. A Common Loon swam alongside us, crisp in black and white plumage against the jade-colored water. Near the inlet of the lake it met its mate, and we sat for about 40 minutes watching them call, and court, and then one spectacularly catching a large fish. Behind the loons a Pika called on the talus slope, a life mammal for many. What a cutie, this little rabbit family member, busy harvesting greens to dry in the sun.

Gail, Owen and Ruth headed out for the farther walk to the Falls. Our route wound up the glacial streambed, where the beauty of stones kept our eyes to the ground. Lots of patterns emerged, and people had made giant cairns to mark the way, selecting the choicest rocks. Soon we paralleled a deep canyon with a rushing river, and had to mount large steps on the climb. Columbine and Death Camas decorated the path; an American Dipper flew rapidly upstream. At the top we viewed a raw land, released from its ice cover for only a 100 years or so. Two streams merged here, and other than their pale blue color it was an austere world of gray, white and brown, as swirling clouds moved in. The water was intensely cold here at the edge of the glacier!

Rain moved in, making our return to the cozy lodge all the more wonderful. Alone in the wilderness setting, the red roof and spaceship shape of Num-Ti-Jah were memorable. We had another delicious dinner, tonight’s main entrée being fresh Arctic Char. Appetizers included Oysters on the half shell and a rich Stilton cheese – quite a feat so far from anywhere!

Sunday, July 10 Lake Agnes Teahouse / Lakes Louise & Moraine / Consolation Lake
We woke to a beautiful morning with light playing on the glacier and waterfall at Bow Lake. Breakfast was lovely in the art-filled log dining room; by now we were getting to know the staff and enjoyed conversations about their favorite hikes, stories about when ice comes off the lake and tales of wildlife sightings. We picked up sack lunches and were underway by 8:30, having many interesting places to explore today.

Gail headed down to Lake Louise, and found a parking spot with ease, as it was still early in the day. A group of five ventured through lush forests towards Lake Agnes Teahouse. Bears had been sighted in the area, so conversation was in order and they whistled and talked up the trail, staying together to enjoy the vistas and climb. A continuous uphill grade made flower watching popular, as that required breaks. Janet marveled at the Pin Heather and Ruth found a One-Sided Wintergreen with nodding flowers. Bunchberry and Snowberry were in bloom as well and higher up in the open there were plentiful Heart-leafed Arnica, yellow and purple Violets and Indian Paintbrush. They had tea and lunch at the St. Agnes Teahouse, in view of the waterfall pouring out of Lake Agnes, named after the wife of the first Canadian prime minister. After tea and biscuits they relaxed on the deck of the teahouse, taking in the scenery and then the historic photographs. After the break, they decided to add more elevation; a climb of another couple hundred feet in a half mile (steep!) afforded fabulous views of Lake Agnes, Mirror Lake and Lake Louise. This part was definitely a challenge! Mt. Fairway loomed in the distance, snow-covered and bold. From the viewpoint you could see north and south – the Wapata Glacier and myriad peaks. Wildlife highlights were a Hoary Marmot, Clark’s Nutcrackers and numerous Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels.

Peg’s group spent the morning exploring and sightseeing, looking for birds at various pullouts and scenic areas. Right out the drive they saw the Swainson’s Hawk again; this time it flew across the road and perched. Peg backed up, and we got out in time to watch it cough up two pellets; nice to know it was eating well! We stopped for photos at vistas of peaks and glaciers, each stop providing a tremendous flower show, mainly paintbrush and daisies forming a red and white blanket. At Johnson Canyon we enjoyed a mile-long hike through a lush canyon. Tight walls of limestone and dolomite were clad with moss and conifers, giving us a real feeling of the Pacific Northwest. We had a little Winter Wren singing its heart out from a log where it seemed to like the echo of its trill. Flocks of Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets were busy overhead feeding young. An American Dipper came in with food for its young, right near us at the falls – landing first on a mossy bough, then hurling its heavy body across to a hidden nest - right at eye level. Back at the parking lot Peg heard Boreal Chickadees, which we found after some diligent searching. We saw two races of Dark-eyed Junco (Oregon and Pink-sided), Pine Siskin and, on a bridge over the river, a nest of Osprey with two young. Gingy’s keen eye took in a bull Elk, a magnificent animal content to graze in a forested area near the road. A traffic jam soon formed, but it made little difference to the elk, which rubbed his face and tines on small trees, and fed with abandon. This was one of the photo highlights of the day – the other being a Hoary Marmot we saw at Consolation Lake. So engrossed were we with watching wildlife that we ended up eating our sandwiches in the car! Marilyn got out at Lake Louise, wanting to explore and experience High Tea at the historic Chalet. The rest of us went on to Moraine Lake, which shone absolutely jade and opal in the afternoon light. Because of Grizzly Bear activity in the area, we had to wait for others to join us to make a minimum group of six; we lucked out and enjoyed the walk with a delightful family from Northern Ireland, their joy and lilting accent a real treat. The boys were curious about the carpet of moss, lichen, liverwort, “British Soldiers (a lichen) and various colorful mushrooms. We found a mixed flock with Yellow-rumped Warbler, Ruby-crowned Kinglet and two more Boreal Chickadee, this time quite close and with much less effort required to see them. Best of all, despite the crowded parking lot at Lake Moraine, we had lower Consolation Lake to ourselves with magnificent views all around. At day’s end we reunited with Marilyn, took a quick look at Lake Louise, and headed for home, spotting several Black-billed Magpies at the coffee stop en route, and a robust female Mule Deer back at the lodge. Another great dinner followed, but alas, no chocolate fondue this night….

Monday, July 11 Parker Ridge / Columbia Icefields / Jasper
Today we ventured north to Jasper National Park, stopping en route to photograph and admire scenery and wildlife and to experience the barren, awesome world of the Columbia Icefield. We awakened to rain, which dampened our spirits a bit but in the end did not stop us from hiking. Near ribbon-like Bridal Veil Falls we found a group of Bighorn Sheep – the first van saw them cross the road, and a young male stayed to feed and seemingly pose for our photos. The second van lingered and was rewarded to see two month-old lambs with their moms emerging from a steep ravine. A third female, likely very old but still in charge, had veritable dreadlocks – shedding her fur in ground-dragging tendrils! The scenery all along this route was striking – Jo commented, “Isn’t this the most beautiful highway there is in North America?” With a mosaic of color from thick mats of wildflowers on either side, we had to agree!

Our first walk was at Parker Ridge, where we knew to expect a fine show of alpine flowers and an array of fossils similar to those of the famous index fossils of the Burgess Shale. It was misty and raining so a few elected to rest and read in the vans, while others donned raincoats and plodded on. Janet had not hiked in the rain before, and found the resulting cool temperatures to her liking. We found Moss Campion, Mountain Avens, Forget-Me-Not, Sulphur Paintbrush, and a gaudy magenta Vetch. Peg heard a Broad-tailed Hummingbird in one of the last groves of spruce and fir. We found an American Pipit way at the top, and were unprepared for the awe of the view. Once we topped out at the ridge, a panorama of peaks spread as far as our eyes could see; between them stretched the Saskatchewan Glacier. How wonderful to see the opal-colored lake at its toe, and know we were seeing the birth of one of Canada’s great rivers, eventually bound for the Hudson Bay. Dave summed it up saying he would like to have stayed up there much of the day!

On we drove to the Columbia Icefields, a major attraction of the region and very crowded, but still worth our visit. We had lunch at the tables perched on the terminal moraine, now bare as the glacier is shrinking. A family of Clark’s Nutcrackers did their best to get us to feed them. Betty and Marilyn watched the young being fed by adults – begging with wings flapping and constant vocal commotion. Displays at the visitor’s center were most impressive, and soon we were aboard a bus, and then a snow coach out onto the ice. We disembarked onto a safe platform of packed snow, where several coaches at a time disgorged their passengers. This led to some great people watching (women in high heels, many nationalities of people posing for photos, etc…) and some close up views of rock, ice and immensity. Gail and Janet dipped their water bottles into a crystalline creek – sampling some of the purest water to be found. Bud agreed with Janet that it was so pure it had no taste!

More beautiful scenery awaited us en route to Jasper, 100 km. north of the icefields. We stopped to search for Mountain Goats; though we had no luck the sun came out fully and the glaciers shone majestically. We had super looks at two likely two-year-old Black Bears. They were by themselves, feeding intently along the roadside, turning over rocks and grazing on the lush vegetation. We pulled into our cozy little cottages along the Athabasca River and enjoyed a relaxing evening, some eating at the hotel, and some venturing into Jasper, which is a delightful town surrounded by tall jagged mountains. Several Elk grazed along the roadside; a group that included a large bull and female with still-spotted calf.

Tuesday, July 12 Cottonwood Slough / Maligne Canyon / Medicine Lake / Maligne Lake
We started the morning with wildlife watching, heading up to a chain of lakes on the Pyramid Lake Road. Cottonwood Slough is perhaps the most productive birding area of Jasper National Park, as three drainages come together here and the lush vegetation and water are inviting. Gingy spotted a Beaver right away, followed quickly by sightings of a Muskrat, differing quite a bit in size. Three Bufflehead drifted on the water resting; their reflections were lovely. Ruth and Marilyn were captivated by the beautiful light of the Gog Quartzite, quite red on Pyramid Mountain at the valley head. We heard dueling Veerys and then a wonderful sound – six Common Loons in flight overhead, calling and calling – what a sound of the north! We saw Yellow Warbler feeding young, and Common Yellowthroat, Lincoln’s Sparrow, a flock of Cedar Waxwing, and a Mallard with her sole remaining chick. Further up the road at lovely Lake Patricia, we saw a pair of Barrow’s Goldeneye circling above and then landing quite close to shore where we stood! Canada Goose goslings were already nearly the size of their parents, quite in contrast to the tiny balls of fluff following a diligent Lesser Scaup mom. At Pyramid Lake we walked a short loop trail out to the island, and had a nice show of wildflowers as well as a male Common Merganser.

For the afternoon we headed up the Maligne Canyon Road, stopping first for a view of the Athabasca River and Jasper, then for a walk at the Canyon and falls. Both Veery and Swainson’s Thrush were seen at the overlook, along with Orange-crowned Warbler, Golden-crowned Kinglet, and another flock of Cedar Waxwing, feeding ravenously on fruits of the Buffaloberry. The cleft of Maligne Canyon was most impressive, both in the shape of the rock sculpturing and in the cover of lichen, moss and wildflowers. There were lush gardens of Columbine (red and yellow variety) on the steep walls, and Janet spotted pockets of solid, sky-blue Harebell. Further up the road, Medicine Lake shone a rich opal color, framed by palisades of sheered-off rock comprising the mountains behind. The light show was tremendous, but Bud stayed his camera as lunch was calling. After lunch, Betty and Marilyn opted for the scenic boat cruise on Maligne Lake, while others hiked the lakeshore, returning on a wooded trail where Labrador Tea and Nangoon Berry were new blooms for us to observe.

Before returning, we checked the outlet of the lake, known as an ecological hotspot, for possible Harlequin Duck. Richard spotted a lone male, which perched for minutes, yielding fabulous scope views. We could see all his pattern and color, and then in a flash he entered the rushing stream and was gone. Views of the mountains around Maligne Lake, including Warren Peak, Joette Warren noted, were just spectacular, and the light highlighting them continued for a grand showing around the shore of Medicine Lake.

Many of our group elected to dine at the elegant Jasper Park Lodge, and had a delightful, leisurely meal. Smoked Arctic Char, Prime Rib, Beef Tenderloin, a variety of lovely appetizers and the Lemon Curd Tart were all raved about in review. The ambiance and fine service made for a delightful evening.

And… Richard, Gingy, Jo and Peg made an effort to see the very rare Black Swifts as they would come in to roost in nearby Maligne Canyon. However, we learned that the cold blustery weather worked against us, and in such a spell of weather adults would feed as far as 200 kilometers away, leaving their young for as long as four days at a time! Eleven birds had been the high count here so far this year; we did not see them, but did see a large flock of Common Raven feeding on emerging grubs at the edge of a dramatic cut bank and a herd of Elk with numerous calves. A full and wonderful day!

Wednesday, July 13 Mt. Edith Cavell / Miette Hot Springs
Gail kept telling us of the beauty of this trail, and nearly everyone decided to make the climb. She was so right in her review – fabulous views of the Angel Glacier and the whole raw environment of its ‘nest’ in this deep carved basin provided extraordinary reward for our efforts. It was misting as we arrived at the parking lot, but clouds kept temperatures cool, and rain was intermittent. Yellow and Pink Heather bloomed thickly along the path, and we spotted many other flowers such as Mountain Avens, Buttercups, Indian Paintbrush, and Spring Beauty. Birds were quiet, our sightings limited to Dark-eyed Junco, Winter Wren and Common Raven, but the chorus of Hermit Thrush was a lovely accompaniment. Tremendously impressive were the loud cracks, booms and breaks of ice from the glacier. We would hear the sound, and then look up to glimpse large waterfalls of snow and rock being sent down to the aqua-colored lake at the base of the ice. Driving rain hit just as we started our delicious sandwiches, but they were too good to fold up and run. We toughed it out, and then had sun for our descent. We took a route past the little glacial lake, where numerous chunks of ice floated like miniature icebergs. There were many more than at our start this morning, a result of the avalanches we had witnessed.

We were back home by three for an hours’ break, after which many elected to go out to Miette Hot Springs, both for the promise of wildlife to be seen along the way, and a chance to soak in the natural hot mineral waters. Right along the Athabasca River we spotted a group of California Gull resting on a gravel bar; above them seven Osprey soared with a couple of Common Raven. The birding in wetlands along the way was a bit disappointing, mainly due to the incessant traffic on the road out there – the Trans Canada Highway runs right through Jasper National Park on its eastern side. We braved the passing of semis to watch a family of Barrow’s Goldeneye and another of Common Loon. Gail’s group spotted Red-winged Blackbird busy and displaying, feeding young in the rushes of one of the lakes. We really searched for Moose, to no avail. Waters of the springs soothed our muscles from hiking. The experience was delicious – outside pools, quite warm, with views of mountains all around. Dave found a great spot and settled, letting relaxation reign – not his typical day in the office for sure! Ruth commented she could move her shoulder as she had not been able to for days, and we all sort of paddled around in delight. Richard and Bud passed on the soak, but found Bighorn Sheep and Mule Deer to photograph right in the parking lot! En route home eagle eye Gail spotted a distant Mountain Goat billy high on the cliffs, and a pair of Coyote in tall grass near a small pond. Both coming and going we had dramatic views of two huge bull Elk – they were intent on grazing to the exclusion of reacting to monstrous passing trucks and a rather large gathering crowd! Light on the mountains was lovely as we drove home, completing the joys of a very full day.

Thursday, July 14 Whistler’s Mtn. / Leech Lake / Athabasca & Sunwapta Falls
This morning we woke to bright sun, and were thrilled at the prospect of a clear, non-windy day atop Whistler’s Mountain. We took the first tram of the day, avoiding the crowds. What a view! Thirty people crowded into the tramcar, standing and holding onto handles as we smoothly ascended several thousand feet. Endless views of peaks in all directions unfolded before us. At the top we could linger (wanted to linger in the thin air…) to take it all in – Jasper and the valley below, and the miles and miles of peaks, including the snowy skirts of Mt. Robson, highest in the Canadian Rockies. Gingy described the Athabasca as the river with food coloring – its rich aqua color evident even up here and somewhat unbelievable against the forested background! We set off in search of some high alpine birds, and with luck spotted several. American Pipit were the most satisfactory of the small birds – the Rosy Finches a mixed flock flyby, and the Horned Lark further up the trail quite far away. But the White-tailed Ptarmigan could not have been more cooperative. Richard spent time with his own personal flock; by being patient he found them at the edge of the tree line. The rest of us chugged up the hill, taking in views, Janet saying, “I just love this climbing…”. Near the first summit Peg spotted one of a group of three Ptarmigan, and as Janet had started her descent, she got a second chance to climb! We watched them feed, preen and move about for nearly 20 minutes, heard them calling, and had wonderful photographic opportunities with good light. During the downward journey we dallied a bit, taking photos of each other against the amazing background of peaks.

After returning to our cabins by the river to pack up, we were on our way, heading eventually to the west side of the divide and Yoho National Park. What a beautiful drive this sunny day. We took the alternate road, away from traffic, and were able to stop to watch Common Loon, see Western Wood Lily (wow!), watch Merlin chase Red-tailed Hawk, and, to our delight, pick ripe Wild Strawberry, a real treat. At the Meeting of the Waters, a historic trade route for fur trappers crossing to the Pacific, we had a picnic lunch by the river, with tablecloths and plates – fun! On to a walk at Athabasca Falls, which were roaring over the rugged rock ledge they’ve carved over time. We found a flock of Yellow-rumped Warblers and Cedar Waxwing in the parking lot, then had fun watching American Dipper at the edge of the falls. A Barn Swallow was quite tame, nesting under the bridge, but best of all were two Black Swift at near eye-level, likely coming in to feed their young. Their direct, powerful flight made chances of seeing them quite slim, so we felt great success in doing so. After four colder, blustery days they likely had a great need to feed young, causing them to be active this time of day. We stopped again at Sunwapta Falls, but then went straight on, as we had a fairly long drive ahead of us.

Gail had arranged for a really lovely dinner at Emerald Lake Lodge, and it was worth rushing a bit – so intimate with rustic elegance as its ambiance along the lakeshore. And we were greeted in the parking lot by Gray Jay – our first sighting of this bird of mountain forests for the whole trip! Marilyn tried the duck (delicious), Betty the elk, and Bud and Gingy the wild game platter. Presentation of the food was beautiful, as were views of the lake and trees from the high-ceilinged dining room. The light was gorgeous as we walked back to our cars, with perfect reflections of high mountains in the lake.

Friday, July 15 Emerald Lake / Takennaw Falls / Yoho
This morning we got to see one of the historic trains of the region coming into the station – a treat for even the staff at our hotel. We headed towards Emerald Lake, where all enjoyed the beauty and grandeur of this setting. The birders did a slow crawl around the 3-mile lakeshore, seeing Great Blue Heron, Savannah and Lincoln’s Sparrow, Boreal Chickadee, Cedar Waxwing, Townsend’s Warbler and other species. Gail’s group added another couple of miles, climbing partway up to the pass, and was thrilled to spot an immature Bald Eagle. The wildflowers were in top form. Ruth commented how many were in bloom at the same time – with such a short season the number putting forth at any one time is just amazing. Betty and Marilyn made a beautiful picture, paddling with skill on the Emerald waters, with towering mountains behind.

We enjoyed a delightful lunch, sitting outside with peaks all around, enjoying delicious food. By mid-afternoon the rain started, and we opted to see the fossils of the Burgess Shale in town, and then view the magnificent Takakkaw Falls on a short hike, forgoing our intended walk to Laughing Falls. This was a remarkable falls, with tremendous power, and a fitting end to our Canadian Rockies journey. Back at Kicking Horse Lodge, we enjoyed a final dinner, the featured cuisine again just too delicious. Good thing we don’t weigh in and out on these journeys!

Saturday, July 16 Return to Calgary / Cave and Basin Park / Departures / Stampede!
We had an early breakfast and left early to have some time in Banff, taking a short walk at the beautiful Cave and Basin Park, and making a photo stop at the famous Banff Springs Hotel. The marsh held a Ring-billed Gull and a Mallard at first look, then great views of Swainson’s Thrush, Boreal Chickadee, Townsend’s Warbler and Common Yellowthroat as we looked with more detail. We found another group of blooming Western Wood Lily – such a beauty! Then it was on to Calgary, where Bud, Gingy and Peg would stay on for some fun at the Calgary Stampede.

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