Northwest Costa Rica
Feb. 2-11, 2006 - Trip Report

Thurs., Feb. 2 Arrival in San Jose
Four of our group arrived early to explore San Jose. Ed was particularly impressed with the Gold Museum downtown near the National Theatre. Having just done the Four Corners trip with us in October, he paid a lot of attention to the pottery collection and said, “You can just SEE the connections.” As we were bound for Guanacaste, perhaps the richest region for artifacts and archaeology in Costa Rica, this set the stage well. Several of us arrived on the later flight, met by Willy Alfero, our guide for the journey. The hotel had kindly left us a delicious light dinner – what a nice surprise after our hours in flight.

Fri., Feb. 3 San Jose / Cinchona Hummingbird Patio / Fortuna / Los Chiles
Hotel Bougainvillea’s gardens provided a perfect place to start our journey by exploring on our own before breakfast. Huge Hydrangeas, Bougainvillea of every color imaginable, and a back wall of Shrimp Plants created quite an oasis. Inca Dove, Clay-colored Robin, and House Wren mingled with the more exotic Crimson-fronted Parakeets and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds amid a riot of color and petals. Gabriela of HORIZONTES, our guide Willy, and our driver Henry met us for breakfast at 7:00, welcoming us and giving us a chance for introductions.

Soon we were on our way for a day of grand scenery and spectacular birding. We drove up the slopes of Poas Volcano, observing the mosaic of vegetation -- nature mingled with agriculture – mainly coffee, cut flowers, and greenhouses that shelter delicate ferns. Along the road vendors sold fresh strawberries, papaya, and plums, while a man posed for pictures with his painted oxcart and oxen. We turned toward Siquerres on the eastern side of the Continental Divide and made our first stop at La Paz, a gorgeous long, thin waterfall. To our right, a lush valley of protected lands served as an important ecological corridor between the highlands and the coast. Willy explained Costa Rica’s various public- and private sector approaches to land protection, impressing upon us once again Costa Rica’s rigorous interest in preserving its natural heritage.

We stopped at Cinchona, a coffee house with a patio and birdfeeders that overlooks another waterfall and a lush valley. The establishment’s name comes from the plant from which quinine was derived. Inside, two delightful women kept a basket of warm tortillas and fresh cheese next to the coffee pot, while we called out names of fascinating species. One of the first was a bright red, male Summer Tanager, a species we know from home. The hummingbirds were numerous and bold -- one flew in the wide-open windows --just shy of Wynn’s nose! Green-crowned Brilliant and huge Violet Saberwings were the most common species, as well as the delicate-looking Green Thorntail. Both Brown and Green Violetear also visited. All of these hummingbirds were tame enough to almost touch!

Soon a pair of Prong-billed Barbet stole the show, displaying their queer jerking motions while uttering equally odd calls. A young Broad-winged Hawk sat perched above the feeders, barely moving during our stay. A couple Emerald Toucanets arrived, and the songbirds mobbed them mercilessly, obviously aware of the toucan’s nest-raiding habits. Some of our favorite birds were North American migrants that eventually landed in a shrub not 20 feet away: a male Blackburnian Warbler, Wilson’s Warbler, Black-and-White Warbler, and Yellow-throated Vireo. Ed spotted the day-glow green of a Blue-crowned Chlorophonia, an endemic species of the highlands. We could barely tear ourselves away! In addition to the birds, the place was decorated with a grand array of the owner’s treasures – from artifacts to oropendola nests.

We had a ways to go, and lunch was calling: fresh soup and ‘comida typica’ at the El Jardin Restaurant in La Fortuna, a delightful small town at the base of Arenal Volcano. As luck would have it the top of the volcano was clear (Willy said this was the case for perhaps one trip in ten). We admired this active volcano’s classic form and were duly impressed when it started smoking -- which we first observed while photographing the local church! Soon we could see a large plume of smoke reminiscent of Yellowstone’s Old Faithful Geyser as the moist air rose. Plumes of smoke extended down the flanks of the mountain – lava! En route to see a special bird (Southern Lapwing, new last year for the Costa Rica list), Henry spotted some toucans. We were treated to scope views of both large species: closer looks at the Channel-billed, and Keel-billed posing atop a tree in the distance. The sight of these two colorful gem species, against a background of a smoking volcano was almost too much…then four Crested Guan flew in! Again we found it hard to tear ourselves away, but we simply had to in order to reach Los Chiles. Several folks took naps as the bus rolled on north, until Willy woke us up at the “Iguana Bridge,” a small river crossing where these large yellow lizards abound.

It was dark when we reached Cano Negro Lodge, but they were ready and welcoming; soon we were enjoying drinks and dinner in the spacious bar and restaurant. Fresh fish, chicken, delicious soups, and desserts after a full but wonderful day, were most satisfying!

Sat., Feb. 4 Cano Negro / Rio Frio
This morning the calls of Common Paraque mingled with those of local roosters to begin the dawn chorus at Cano Negro Lodge. Soon a troop of Howler Monkeys joined in, along with House Wren, Greater Kiskadee, and Tropical Kingbird. Marcyes joined Willy for the early morning outing; the rest of the group gathered for breakfast before our morning boat ride.

Ernesto, our local guide, met us to walk over to the boat. We would have needed blinders to get there straightaway. Every step along the way seemed to bring us wonderful new sights, from intensely colored bougainvillea and bamboo orchids in the local gardens, to two Black-bellied Whistling-duck chicks that seemed to have imprinted on a mother hen. When we got to the lagoon, it was humming with activity: an Osprey, an incredible look at Bare-necked Tiger-Heron, Limpkin, Purple Gallinule, and the nest of a Black-throated Mango (which, strangely enough was being attended by the male). We took our seats and soon were underway, Ernesto masterfully navigating a series of side channels and the main river. Three different kingfisher species showed off their skills – Amazon, Green, and Ringed – sometimes we had two species in view at the same time! We saw White Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, and Snail Kite, a sampler matching our Everglades ecosystem for sure! The morning passed quickly and mercifully remained relatively cool, as cloud cover persisted all day. Moving along with the current we had a good breeze, and saw only two other boats. Howler Monkeys spotted by Wynn were a big hit, especially as the female had a fairly young baby. Tom spotted a Gray-necked Wood Rail acting quite secretive near a large Spectacled Caiman; later downstream we found two more that were much bolder. We had super looks at Red-lored Parrot, Olive-throated Parakeet, and a trio of Barred Antshrike in which two rival males put on quite a display. One mixed flock held some real gems – Collared Aracari, Keel-billed Toucan, and Cinnamon Becard – but the flock was so interlaced with the leaf cover they were tough to pick out. Herons, Anhingas, and a Three-toed Sloth – it was a spectacular morning!

A siesta and swimming seemed in order after lunch; around 3 p.m. we met Ernesto again to wander through the village streets. Because it was Saturday, several small children were out playing, apparently quite impressed by the sight of boot-clad, birder-garbed tourists with binoculars. This small village of 300, perched on the edge of Nicaragua, seemed tranquil and removed from the world. Houses ranged from simple to prosperous, and all were surrounded by gardens with a riot of color and form. Near our hotel we found a female Cinnamon Woodpecker intent on investigating a nest site, then two Black-cheeked Woodpeckers drumming holes in a telephone pole. We walked back down to the lagoon where we had boarded our boat; while activity was greatly diminished, we found a few new species – including splendid looks at Black-collared Hawk and Nicaraguan Grackle, along with the Green-breasted Mango now seen feeding its chicks.

Dinner was delicious, and Jean had discovered their equally delicious margaritas, which several of us sampled. We tallied 101 species on our bird list today!

Sun., Feb. 5 Cano Negro / Upala / Bijuagua / Rincon de la Vieja
Today was Election Day in Costa Rica, so just after sunrise the red-and-blue, and green- and-white parties set up tables in the village square. Laurie and Garret walked about the village watching the fervor of activity, while Peg returned to the marsh with her camera to photograph the Bare-necked Tiger Heron.

Our route today took us over the Continental Divide between two of the Guanacaste Region’s highest volcanoes – Tenorio and Miravalles. Before crossing through the low pass, we visited Las Heliconias, a private reserve near Bijaugua. What a delightful spot! In the comfortable, mid-montane climate, we waited for lunch while admiring the views and walking a bit on the sawdust-covered (silent!) trails among gardens in bloom.

After fortifying ourselves with a delicious lunch, we split into two groups for some hiking and bird watching. The manager, Don, took our adventurous ones on a two-hour hike that crossed several high canopy bridges, for a sampler of the higher reaches of the forest. That group glimpsed Great Currasow and saw Green Honeycreeper and White-faced Capuchin Monkeys. Willy took the rest of us on a super walk through regenerating forest, where several old-growth large Strangler Figs displayed buttresses too large for four of us to wrap our arms around! At a tree gap we looked off to primary forest and a deep ravine where all the trees were so festooned with bromeliads and other epiphytes, we wondered how they could stand the weight!

Continuing on, we saw more crowds and flag waving in the small towns we drove through. We soon reached the Pan American highway, which transects some of the most beautiful scenery in Costa Rica. In open pastures, long-eared Brahma cattle lounged under huge spreading Guanacaste trees. Clouds wrapped the summits of the volcanoes; soon the volcano Rincon de la Vieja, with its large side volcanic spatter cones came into view. We turned off the road to the east, bumping along in our comfortable bus on a rugged road as the sun made its way to the horizon. Henry got us to a clearing JUST in time for a memorable sunset, in which the whole orb glowed crimson – wow! At Hacienda Guachipelin we gathered for drinks by the pool and dinner in the new open air restaurant -- with the lights of Liberia seen in the distance.

Mon., Feb. 6 Hacienda Guachipelin / Rincon de la Vieja
This morning, early, we woke to sounds of braying mules and Greylag Geese – quite different than our dawn chorus of yesterday! Soon parrots and White-throated Magpie Jays chimed in, and light on the immense trees seen from the hacienda’s porch was lovely. Willy pointed out several birds while we waited for breakfast. After our meal we set off for our mornings outing, a walk up the road and on the ranch’s winding trails in search of dry forest birds and other life forms. We stopped to watch seething colony of Army Ants that covered a swath of forest and moved up and around one of the larger trees – impressive! Favorite birds included the incredible colorful Blue-crowned Motmot, and the delicate Long-tailed Manakin. We enjoyed watching Plain-capped Starthroat feed on the native Sleeping Hibiscus, and were challenged by several energetic mixed flocks that centered on very vocal Rufous-naped and Banded Wrens. The forest was quite open, as many of the deciduous trees had shed their leaves. The ear-shaped fruits of the Guanacaste were evident, as were pink, yellow, and white flowers of several trees in bloom.

In the afternoon we had a grand time exploring and sampling the area’s “mudpots.” To get to these thermal features, six of our group rode the ranch’s horses, which Marcyes described “short, fast paced, wiry, and quite sure-footed over the rocks.” They were well trained and willing as we rode through the lovely mix of dry forest and open pasture, the latter providing us with splendid views of the volcano’s summit. Primary forest still grows on many of Rincon de la Vieja’s slopes.

The rest of our group traveled by bus and joined us at the entrance to the mudpots. Then a kind young man walked us through the spa routine: 10 minutes in the sauna, 20 minutes caked in drying volcanic muds, a soak in the hot tub, followed by an exhilarating plunge in the cold pool. The cacophony of our efforts to apply the mud was a riot, as were the photos taken of our mud-clad faces and bodies! A Coatimundi came in to see if any snacks might evolve from the revelry. Henry, who was photographing the bubbling pools of mud while waiting for us, saw a rare Jaguarondi.

Those on the bus walked a bit and watched a troop of Howler Monkeys en route back to the lodge. Those of us on horseback trotted back across the pastures under a sky decorated in many late afternoon and sunset hues. Clouds gathered on Rincon de la Vieja, and a rainbow arched across the sky behind us. Beth announced that she was “one happy camper” – as were we all!

Tues., Feb. 7 Guachipelin / Guaitil / La Ensenada
A domestic turkey joined the wakeup crew of geese and mules this morning at the ranch. It was worth waking up to see the light on the huge Guanacaste trees with the peak of the volcano clear behind them. Tom spotted the pair of Turquoise-browed Motmots catching insects on the lawn just off our porch, and later found us a Collared Trogon in one of the large trees.

We walked for about an hour and a half before breakfast, some to the waterfall for some exercise and the view, and others along the more leisurely Red Pools trail in search of birds. We’d barely gotten out the driveway when a local gentleman pointed out a Tropical Screech Owl – quite close overhead! Two Red-lored Parrots preened atop a bare tree for some fine scope viewing. Then another colorful gem the stoic Squirrel Cuckoo, appeared; it sat calmly, turning only its head to watch for insect prey. Once inside the forest we found a mixed flock, with migrant Philadelphia Vireos and Tennessee Warblers joining the resident Rufous-crowned Warblers. The butterflies were abundant on this sunny morning; one that completely matched the bark of a local tree won our attention.

After packing up, we drove to a local grocery in Liberia to buy local coffee, salsa, rice, rum, and other delicacies. Several of us needed a chocolate fix, and Willy stocked up on snacks. Soon we were off, truly OFF the beaten path, traveling west to the Nicoya Peninsula on winding local roads that paralleled the Pan American Highway. The scenery in this dry, cattle ranching country is quite striking, with small but rugged limestone hills framing large open pastures. People were busy with their daily lives, fun to watch as we ventured on.

We stopped to visit a woman’s cooperative in the town of Guaitil, where the residents still make indigenous pottery. We enjoyed visiting with the women and some of their small children as we shopped for some treasures to carry home. Then it was on to town of Nicoya, to lunch across from a church that dates back to the 1600s – one of the oldest in Costa Rica. The church, a national monument, had been recently renovated, but its simple majesty remained intact: high wooden ceilings, fresh white stucco, statues of the saints, and an impressive baptismal altar. Peg was off again in search of a Canon battery charger, and this time, in a very small town – success! We had lunch of local “hamberguesas” and ice cream. Wynn declared the rum raisin to be divine!

We drove another hour, crossing on the way the new bridge that spans the Tempisque River, to Solimar, a working ranch that protects some valuable ponds and wetlands. Their birding guide, Demetrio, joined us, leading us just up the road from headquarters to share a great source of pride for them and the country – the nest of a Jabiru Stork! This huge wading bird, once plentiful in the lush river delta, is surely making a comeback. We watched two, three-week-old chicks stretch their wings and learned about their nesting saga. Dimitri and Willy urged us on to reach the ponds before sunset, where we were greeted with a great array of wading birds and waterfowl. Black-bellied Whistling-duck nearly filled the ponds – packed in orange beak to orange beak, hiding a few Blue-winged Teal and Black-necked Stilt. A brilliant Roseate Spoonbill captivated us -- until Ken and Tom spotted both Black-crowned and Yellow-crowned Night-Herons near each other. A large group of Limpkin fed in the fields like cranes; numerous Snail Kites hunted overhead, acrobatic and keen-eyed. Seven or more American Crocodile, one over 7 feet long, kept us alert as we ambled along the canals. We watched a gorgeous sunset, with herons and egrets returning to roost over a pasture full of curious cows.

Back at the ranch house we enjoyed some delicious blackberry juice and coffee before venturing on to our lodgings. The television broadcast the struggle to count ballots in the nation’s too-close-to-call elections – our first glimpse of the outside world for a while, and all too familiar! The staff members at La Ensendada greeted us with a simple but delicious dinner of fresh fish, chicken, and side dishes.

Wed., Feb. 8 La Ensendada / Gulf of Nicoya
As we had arrived just after dark, the amazing view of the Gulf of Nicoya – its many coves and the layered mountain range behind it -- was quite a surprise. An immense Cenizaro (Ironwood) Tree framed our view; splashes of vibrant color from the many Bougainvillea shrubs dotted the foreground like an Impressionist painting. Willy was out early in search of birds, having found a Streak-backed Oriole nest, many Orange-fronted Parakeets, and three fairly tame Black-headed Trogons. Tom went out to test some newly mastered functions of his digital camera. The day unfolded gracefully; Laurie said the place was her favorite yet.

For the full morning we explored Nicoya Bay and its mangrove tributary streams by boat. Huge numbers of Laughing Gulls and Royal Terns roosted on the exposed mudflats of low tide as we ventured forth. Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds played above on the wing. Up quiet tributaries we were able, with Garrett’s whistling, to bring in a small mixed flock that provided quick glimpses of two of the area’s resident specialties, Mangrove Vireo and Mangrove Warbler, along with migrant Yellow and Prothonotary Warblers. We delighted in the colors of roosting Roseate Spoonbill, as well as the behaviors of a young Little Blue Heron and a lone adult Reddish Egret. We loved the cool breeze, the lovely views, and the chance to be out on the water. Tom summed up our enchantment, “This makes me feel like I should retire,” said Tom, summing up our enchantment.

Mid-day was HOT, and time for siesta, swimming, or just R & R. Wynn enjoyed her book from the shaded ramada at the ocean’s edge while Magnificent Frigatebirds danced in the sky above her. By 3:00 we gathered again for our tractor ride, a chance to visit several areas of this private ranch. We unloaded quickly as Willy announced, “Rose-throated Becard!”. It was a bit elusive amidst a mixed flock, but we had great looks eventually on our journey. A good number of shorebirds worked away at the salt ponds; along the road to the viewpoint we found a pair of Ferruginous Owl across from a small troop of Howler Monkeys.

Ken and Peg pushed on for the sunset, for atop the hill a grand view of the Gulf of Nicoya lay before us. Here a beautiful table had been set with wine, and the show of color had just begun, and the hues continued to intensify for much of the next hour. We enjoyed wine and cheese with abandon, what a great way to end the day!!

Thurs., Feb. 9 La Ensendada / Central Highlands / Villa Blanca
This morning we wandered at leisure around the grounds. Marcyes was out early, joining Willy to find the Squirrel Cuckoo, the motmots, and quite a remarkable passion flower growing hidden in the grass. Tom and his mother, Jean, strode hand in hand down to the boat ramp, where they discovered a Great Blue Heron eating a foot-long eel. Wynn made her way back to her perch by the sea, and then joined Ken to return to the spot where he’d found the trogons feeding in the fruiting fig tree. We hated to leave this delightful view of the ocean and our cabins perched under the shade of the huge Cenizaro.

Leaving about 8:30, we made our way to the Pan American highway and headed east. Willy treated us to ice cream at the new Monteverde dairy store, saying it was the best in the country. Garrett said his chocolate chip was pretty amazing, while Jean chose rum raisin again, and Beth tried a very rich coconut. Enjoying ice cream mid-morning -- we knew this must be vacation! Our next stop was a souvenir shop with lovely wooden and leather goods and a butterfly garden. We had lunch at Café Delicias in San Ramon; after our salads and other delights, Willy fed us more sweets. Then we stretched our legs with visits to the refurbished church and town square before boarding the bus again to head into the mountains.

Villa Blanca is a delightful, upscale eco-resort, once owned by a former president of Costa Rica. Happily for us, we arrived at this cloud forest reserve under perfect blue skies that stayed with us all afternoon! We took a short loop walk to study the forest and see some of its creatures, including hummingbirds and orchids. The birds that really caught our attention were the Crimson-collared Tanager and two turkey-sized members of the guan family – Crested Guan, stacked six high in a tree, and later Gray-headed Chachalaca.

Willy gave an excellent talk on the origins of biodiversity in Costa Rica, inspiring so many questions from the group that we were still interrogating him as we ate enjoyed the creative dishes and extensive wine list at dinner.

Fri., Feb. 10 Finca Los Quetzales / Villa Blanca
We really wanted to see Costa Rica’s signature bird, the Resplendent Quetzal; knowing they were just due back to the higher elevations and might require some effort to find, we got a very early start. Warner, Villa Blanca’s local guide, and Ignacio, a farmer who owns the land covered by the preserve, joined us in this effort. We drove to an area about 18 km away from Villa Blanca, where we found the Dhama trees full of fruit – among the quetzal’s favorite, along with wild Avocado. Garrett immediately picked up on the vocalization being used by the guides to call the birds in and mimicked them well. We walked along the road, first finding the spectacular Orange-bellied Trogon. Tom found a secretive Black Guan, and all of us enjoyed views of some migrant wood-warblers and resident tanagers.

Suddenly Warner and Ignacio urged us on and quickly got the scopes up – a male quetzal, almost hidden near the trunk of a large tree. We took quick turns seeing him, in all his splendor and detail. Of course he moved before all could take a turn, but Warner moved on and found a female quetzal in a fruiting Dhama tree. Now all we had to do was wait. We scaled a verdant hill to set up scopes on the female, close enough to be able to admire how widely she opened her bill to eat the big fruits. Wynn gave a thumbs- up, having had a super look at last. Soon we heard a guttural call, and in came a male! For such a brilliant and large bird, he was quite capable of hiding among the foliage. Ken said, “I’ve seen parts of him very well!” Back on the road, Garrett had the best view, as the pair called and quickly flew toward the river. What a sight, the male with his three-foot long emerald tail undulating like a serpent in the air!

Euphoric, we continued on to the cloud forest trail at Finca Los Quetzales, and enjoyed several hours to explore. We found army ants, a fresh woodpecker hole, numerous interesting plants, Collared Redstart, Mountain Robin, and more. The day was clear, with dramatic clouds rolling fast above the trees. Every inch of every tree was festooned with other plants – bromeliads, orchids, mosses, lichens and even smaller trees! Jean marveled at the weight of all these epiphytes must weigh. Laurie really enjoyed stretching her legs while getting the feel for such an unusual forest – quite unlike any she’d seen before. In no time at all, it seemed, we were boarding the bus to return to the hotel for lunch.

In the afternoon we relaxed, enjoyed our porches, and several sampled our glassed-in showers that allowed us to keep bird watching in privacy. Imagine watching a Gray-headed Chachalaca feed while washing up after a field trip! Being surrounded by so much green was just enchanting. During another walk in the late afternoon we found a mixed flock of warblers – the favorite being Golden-winged, a migrant. As soon as Willy described the Chestnut-sided Warbler as having a “cocked tail” we lost the crowd -- Jean announced, “I can find that one!” Then it was time to gather around the fire and compare notes on our favorite places and sightings. The beef, or lomito, with avocado and tomato salsa was the favorite dish at our fine farewell dinner.

Sat., Feb. 11 Villa Blanca / Departures
We enjoyed an easy morning, with time to drink our coffee on the porch and the chance to savor one last serving of delicious rice and black beans for breakfast. We tallied our bird list on the bus en route to the airport, then said our goodbyes to our very special guide, Willy Alfero, and our driver, Henry Rodriguiz. It was a super journey, and we hoped to reassemble during another in years to come.

Photo Credits:
Passion Flower, Peg Abbott

Close This Window