The Nature of Costa Rica (Southern)
March 2001 - Trip Report

Friday, March 2  Arrival in San Jose
While Rolando tried valiantly to thread the maze of rush hour traffic with John, Edna, Peg and Diane coming back from the beach, others of our group were gathering at the Hotel Palma Real.  Jim Kelly was already calling out birds, each one new, in the trees around the entrance.  Several of the group were old friends from previous journeys and with old and new there were warm welcomes all around.  We shared a welcome drink and walked a few blocks over to a very special dinner planned for us at the Spanish Embassy. There happened to be a wedding going on in one of the other rooms of the embassy and we had a great time people watching.  We enjoyed the beautiful paintings and sculptures, as well as the delicious and elegantly-prepared meal.  We walked home in the moonlight - everyone excited about starting out in the morning.

Saturday, March 3  Guayabo National Monument / C.A.T.I.E
We got an early start south along the Pan American Highway towards Cartago, where we stopped to visit one of the country's beautiful Catholic churches on the town square.  From here we continued on to CATIE, an international agricultural center with an excellent reputation for research in the tropics.  Our accommodations were just across from a very active pond, and for many it was the first sighting of Northern Jacana, Purple Gallinule, Montezuma Oropendola, and Boat-billed Heron. We had lunch, unpacked our things, and headed out for Guayabo National Monument.  Just out of the bus we spotted a sloth up in a cecropia tree feeding on leaves at the classic slow pace of his kind. This was an animal Pat missed on her last tropical trip and here it was to greet her! One of the Park Rangers walked with us to help interpret the culture, but, as is so often the case, looking back with few clues - we were left with more questions than answers. Along the trail we watched leaf-cutting ants carrying material to their huge mounds which contain subterranean fungal gardens.  We saw wild impatiens, bromeliads and heliconia in bloom and a good variety of trees in second growth forest.  Some large carved stones, typical of this culture, were very striking. We climbed a good number of steps up to an overview, totally surrounded by forest, with a marvelous view to the east.  While we enjoyed the bird's-eye view of the ruins a mixed flock of tanagers, including the knockout Passerini's (Scarlet-rumped) Tanager, which came through in frenzy.  On our way back down, Juan Carlos, our eagle-eye driver picked up the sighting of a Blue-crowned Mot-mot who was most cooperative about being observed by a busload of people.  We had dinner at C.A.T.I.E, though being a weekend, there were few students and scientists to join us.  We did meet an interesting person working on a complex, computer-based mapping project for all of Central America - a challenging task.  Egrets and Herons squawked at us from their night roosts as we walked back across campus to our hotel.  

Sunday, March 4   Early morning birding/ rafting the Pacuare River
Several got up early this morning to enjoy dawn on the pond, where there was lots of bird activity.  We saw our first Keel-billed Toucans, watched a Green Heron poised for the hunt, got the scope on several species of parrots, and found several species of colorful tanagers. The favorite of many was the lovely Golden-hooded Tanager.  Today held a thrilling experience for us as we rafted the rushing Pacure River, considered one the most beautiful whitewater stretches of Central America. We wound through small towns on the road that took us to the river put-in. Bougainvillea was everywhere in bloom in all colors from deep purple to salmon.  We passed sugarcane mills and fields, children in uniforms walking to school and vendors selling vegetables (including beautiful deep orange palm fruits that several photographed). We then went down a steep dirt road, catching a glimpse of a Least Grebe in a small pond, and prepared for our adventure by donning helmets, life-vests, and learning the ins and outs of paddling. Our group filled two rafts, and for the next several hours we never stopped paddling. The rapids came like wildfire, one right after the other.  Lots of hoops and hollers rang through the forest and canyon.  We spotted a few birds on the fly, including Green Kingfisher and the Bare-throated Tiger Heron, and enjoyed our guides' keen eye and knowledge of the area. One of the groups found a Poison-Dart Frog. Diane popped in (or out?) for a swim. After the trip, they fed us a wonderful lunch with fresh fish, black beans, good salsa, plantains - and cold beer.  Many Crimson-fronted and Olive-throated Parakeets were flying around the area.  Brahma cows and their young grazed in the fields nearby. We walked about in search of birds and were rewarded with great views of a Long-tailed Tyrant.  Heading back in the mid-afternoon, we passed through the fertile fields of Turrialba Volcano, to return for time to bird on the grounds of C.A.T.I.E.  At day's end all enjoyed a drive up the hill to a great restaurant that overlooked the city of Turrialba.

Monday, March 5   Lankaster Gardens / Mirador Quetzales / Rio Savegre
Once again we enjoyed dawn at the pond and on the grounds of C.A.T.I.E.  Walking through the housing area, we had great looks at Collared Aracari, Blue-crowned Mot-mot, and noisy Band-backed Wren. After breakfast, w e left C.A.T.I.E., to enjoy a few hours exploring the trails of Lankaster Gardens.  Everyone went at their own pace, walking through different sections of the gardens that displayed orchids, palms, bromeliads, heliconias and the native habitats of Costa Rica. Jim found a Striped Cuckoo, and Tina found the White-eared Ground Sparrow. Then, in Juan Carlos' expert hands back on the bus, we traveled again on the Pan American Highway through the rugged Talamanca Mountains.  At a small farm known as Finca Quetzales, we had lunch (fresh farm-raised trout) prepared by the Eddie Serano family.  Their dogs greeted us and stayed close by on the porch.  Several hummingbirds, including the tiny Volcano Hummingbird, visited the brilliant flowers in the gardens.  We had the gift of a crystal clear day, with a view of five volcanoes and all the country in between.  Much of the forested area of the farm is pristine cloudforest, dominated by evergreen oaks that are immense in size and stature. Each of these is festooned with moss, bromeliads and other epiphytes. We had great hopes of seeing the Resplendent Quetzal, which nests this time of year. We found a courting pair and had wonderful looks at both the male and female. Jim and Peg tried valiantly to photograph the male with the Sawrovski scope adapter, but just did not have enough light in this high cloudforest realm. The cattle wanted to follow us home - tame like big dogs, they lingered for our photos.  We then headed on to  the farm of another enterprising family - the Chacon's.  Once again Juan Carlos navigated effortlessly down a series of mountain switchbacks that lead to this pristine valley.  Hummingbirds were quite active at the feeders: Green Violet Ear, White-throated Mountain Gem, Magnificent, Scintillent, and Volcano being the most common.  It was cool enough in the evening to enjoy a fire and we caught up on our birdlist.  

Tuesday and Wednesday, March 6 and March 7   Rio Savegre Valley
We had two full days to explore one of the most beautiful valleys in Costa Rica. In this remote place, there was great comfort and freedom to explore as several trails were close to the lodge.  On the first morning we walked up a mountain road to reach the higher cloud forest - hoping to see more quetzals, and the Collared Trogon.  Along the way we saw Yellow-bellied Siskins in big flocks, the beautiful Flame-colored Tanager, the odd-little Ruddy Treerunner and Sooty and Mountain Robin.  Rolando led a crew back down through dense forest along a streamside trail and found us great views of Golden-crowned Warbler, Barred Becard and Black-capped Flycatcher.  Another morning we drove up the road to some fruiting trees that quetzals had been seen using the previous day.  We were rewarded with excellent views of the male and female once again.  Later, along the clear mountain Rio Savegre we saw the Tufted Flycatcher, the cute little Torrent Tyrannulet, Ochraceous and Gray-breasted Wood Wrens, and Ruddy-capped and Black-billed Nightengale Thrush. One of the beautiful birds of this valley is the Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher which we saw both perched and flying overhead.  Swallow-tailed Kites took to the thermals each afternoon - we saw groups of a dozen or more each day. On an afternoon walk, we encountered quite a mixed flock, with Flame-throated Warblers and a great performance by a Buffy Tuftedcheek who took a bath in a tank bromeliad.  Pat, Peg and Rolando wandered way up the river one late afternoon, and were lucky to get close views of the redstarts and the Spangle-cheeked Tanagers. Winning the award for charm would have to be the Collared Redstart. Its bright yellow face and tame mannerisms were endearing. One evening, as hummingbirds buzzed at the feeders as a backdrop, Mr. Chacon came to tell us about his experience homesteading here. What he has built in forty years is just remarkable.  Because of their years of effort we could enjoyed dining on fresh trout from local streams, as well as jams and sauces from apples, plums, and peaches from the farm's orchards. Rolando interpreted for us and shared his gentle insights.   

Thursday, March 8    Alexander Skutch Farm / Esquinas Rainforest
We were sorry to have to say good-bye to Jim and Jackie Kelly who had to get back to the States today.  They left early for San Jose and the airport.  For the rest of us, the morning was spent driving over the crest of the Talamanca Range and descending to the agricultural city of San Isidro.  En route we stopped at a high point along the along the Continental Divide near a series of communication towers. Vegetation here is dwarfed due to elevation, winds and seasonal cold weather.  Views are of both the Atlantic and Pacific sides of the country.  We could see the Pacific Ocean, though there was discussion about seeing the surf.  Frances clarified it by spotting a surfer, a pretty good looking one at that. En route we saw the rather spectacular Fork-tailed Flycatcher showing off his acrobatic skills. We took a picnic lunch with us to visit the farm of Alexander Skutch, the famous author on nature in the tropics, now in his 90's. Rolando is very good friends of both Dr. Skutch and his wife, Pamela. Just this year, they put electricity in to the cabin as Pam's health is failing.  There is now a young couple there full time helping to take care of things.  Their over-friendly horse wanted to go on the bird walk, but his owner retrieved him. Dr. Skutch's joy of life and deep satisfaction of a life well lived is still very much evident.  He signed many of our books and I think we all felt very fortunate to meet him.  Almost in tribute, a Black-cheeked Woodpecker and a Turquoise Cotinga perched for a long time on the dead snag that must have been one of Alexander's favorites for all these years. Peg read a tale of Costa Rica's Revolution from one of his books as we continued on further south to Esquinas Rainforest Lodge. From our first entry, after crossing first the bridge and then the creek, we recognized this as an idyllic spot. Several grabbed a chair on the porch and decided passive birdwatching was just fine.  Since Beryl-crowned Hummingbirds and Bronzy Hermits were plentiful, why not!  A pair of Crested Guan greeted us from the trees as we took some time to unpack and get settled.  Peg pointed out the roost site of some gentle White-lined Sac Wing Bats. Diane and Rebecca wasted no time and were soon in the cool waters of the natural stream-fed swimming pool. Frances and Tina joined them and led a round of water aerobics (skiing in the tropics?). It was wonderful to sit at the pool at the end of the day and listen to the mournful cries of Great and Little Tinamou - the sound Alexander Skutch describes as one of the most beautiful in the forest. We had an excellent dinner and enjoyed the open-air dining room as it was a lovely night. Deep in the Pacific Lowland Rainforest, night sounds were pretty extraordinary.  

Friday, March 9    Esquinas Rainforest Lodge
The dawn chorus of tinamous, antbirds, toucans and guans was pretty amazing, whether experienced from the comfort of bed, or on one of the morning walks.  John, Edna and Rolando headed down the road to get a great look at one of the most secretive species - the White-throated Crake. After breakfast drove out into the farmlands of the valley, where farmers were tilling fields to plant rice.  Cattle and Great Egrets as well as Yellow-headed Caracara were following the tractors, hundreds of them wheeling about catching insects and small mammals displaced by the blades. Jim admired the old four-wheel drive equipment that functioned so well for this task.  Framed by mountains, this is a beautiful setting, but hot at mid-day. We must admit we birded from our air-conditioned bus in real comfort, looking at Red-breasted Blackbird and a variety of seedeaters, migrant Tree Swallows, and on a local farm, a Great Currasow. In the afternoon we walked a forest trail with the guide from Esquinas who told us about medicinal plants and rainforest ecology.  We were lucky to see the Black-cheeked Ant Tanager, endemic to Costa Rica and confined to this part of the country.  Several turned around part way to enjoy the wonderful grounds and swimming pool.  Pat, Frances, Rolando and Peg continued on with our guide to complete a rigorous climb to the ridge, which in time wound back to the lodge. First we encountered Killer Bees ("don't make any noise on the trail"), then razor-edged palm fronds across the trail ("these will cut your skin") and finally bullet ants ("their bite packs the power of a bullet").  We jokingly made up verses to the 12 days of Christmas based on such rainforest surprises. But we had time to look at all the wonder of the forest in detail - the vines, llianas, mosses, bromeliads, giant palms, strangler figs, butressed roots.  We saw a mixed flock of antbirds and woodcreepers, including Black-striped Woodcreeper, on the ridgeline, and a Rufous-necked Jacamar posed for us above the path.  Clouds were gathering and we had a heavy rain threatening - who was there at the bottom of the hill but Juan Carlos with the bus!  Back to a nice cold beer and dinner. In the evening Catalina, the manager of the lodge, spoke to us about the project of building and running the rainforest lodge.  Knowing Rebecca loved to dance, Rolando had kept his ears open for the opportunity, and this night he and Juan Carlos and Peg and Rebecca took off for a country dance in the nearby town - great music and great fun. Rebecca danced every dance and the best local dancers enjoyed a flashy new partner. Catalina and some others from the lodge joined them as well - a great opportunity to sample life as a local.  Saturday, March 10     Golfito / Wilson Botanical GardensThis morning we were on a mission to find some toucans for Edna on our early morning walk. Not only did we find a big group of Channel-billed Toucan, but we also found one of the most amazing birds of the rainforest - the Baird's Trogon - decorated in white, red and blue.  He was very cooperative and called and called. High in the canopy we also watched the Black-cheeked Ant Tanagers again below us.  Pat and Peg lingered to catch every last glimpse and were rewarded as the Fiery-billed Aracaris came in behind the toucans.  Mid-morning, we left and visited our guide's home, where he is raising Paca, a nocturnal rainforest mammal prized by locals for their delicious meat. Since poaching is a big problem, hope lies in being able to raise these animals domestically to ease pressure on the wild stock. These Paca were doing quite well, and had several cute babies for us to enjoy. We then drove a back road through the Golfito National Wildlife Refuge, which protects dense and pristine lowland rainforest, and watched a pair of Black-tailed Tityra cleaning out their nest hole.  In a short time we were at Golfito, a lovely small city on the coast.  There were Roseate Spoonbill and Little Blue Heron on the mudflats, as well as some migrant shorebirds. We saw Brown Pelican and Magnificent Frigatebird, and a variety of gulls and terns. We stopped at the local grocery to buy coffee and supplies and enjoyed lunch at a local restaurant, looking out to the mangrove lagoons and the extensive saltwater bay. Rolando pointed out the oil palm farms and discussed the rise and fall of the Pacific Banana industry, of which Golfito was once the busy hub. In the afternoon we traveled on to Wilson Botanical Gardens, on yet another winding mountain road.  People seemed delighted with their hillside cabins with verandas, and for the rest of the afternoon we were free to relax or wander as we chose. The Fiery-billed Aracari arrived as if on cue, and joined Blue-headed and White-crowned Parrots on the prominent dead snags on the horizon. Dinner was a treat of fresh local foods served family style.  Paul Erlich and his group caught a giant Caligo Butterfly for us to see while dining. One of the scientists was black lighting moths in the evening and invited us down to watch.  He caught a grand array of moths, katydids and Hercules beetles.  

Sunday and Monday March 11 and March 12 Wilson Botanical Gardens
After our time in the lowlands, we enjoyed returning to the cool, lush mountain setting.  In the morning we walked down to the Rio Java, finding many birds en route, and a peaceful setting on arrival. A Rufous Mourner and a Chestnut-backed Antbird were highlights.  The banana feeders behind the dining area were very popular, as birds would come in close allowing for real inspection and appreciation.  In the afternoon, several people enjoyed a garden tour on trails that display tropical and montane plants from around the world. We learned more about the work and mission of Wilson Botanical Gardens and gained some insights into the secret lives of plants.  There were a good number of North American migrant birds here and we enjoyed the mixed flocks of warblers - especially the Blackburnian and Black-throated Green. On the second day we visited a coffee farm in the Coto Brus Valley - quite a long drive but also quite interesting. This farm had chosen to mill their own, as an organic product, as the added value contributed  to the price they could get for their crop. We enjoyed seeing their diverse approach to farming, with a trout pond, vegetable gardens, a fancy stud horse and ecotourist cabins in addition to the coffee.  Since the route was long on fairly rough dirt roads, we arranged for a short-cut home through Panama - adding a few birds to our "Panama lists" was the joke.  The kids at the border crossing were very cute and were quite enamored with our gift of cookies.  For our afternoon sweets, many enjoyed sampling the local ice cream in tropical flavors in San Vito!  Tuesday, March 13     Wilson Botanical Gardens / travel to San JoseAt Pat's suggestion, we got up early to stalk the Gray-necked Wood Rail, which we heard repeatedly at dawn from our porches and beds. We had great luck finding them and were able to share the sighting with several others after breakfast. We also enjoyed a final morning of birding from the great breakfast veranda at Wilson Botanical Gardens. A Scaled Pigeon, Turquoise Cotinga, Blue-headed and Brown-hooded Parrots posed for us one last time. Today was mostly a travel day as we returned along the mountains to San Jose.  First, on a great tip from our butterfly scientist friends, we went to see a Common Potoo, incubating its precious egg on the post of a common farm fence right off the road!  It never moved, even an eyelid, but was aware of us with keen intensity. What luck to find such a secretive bird!  Rolando picked a great spot for lunch to break up the trip. We had a bird-viewing balcony with a view of many of the high peaks of the Talamancas, including Chirripo, Costa Rica's highest peak. The feeders were ablaze with color as Summer Tanager joined Silver-throated, Blue-gray and Speckled Tanagers.  A Red-headed Barbet came in briefly for quite a stir as a Bat Falcon circled in the sky.  And the real hit were the very tame hummingbirds, from the bold Violet Saberwing to the shy Stripe-tailed Hummingbird.  We were on our way soon after lunch and in San Jose we made a mad shopping dash to the Boutique AnnMarie that has many local arts and crafts.  We had a final dinner at El Chicote, joined by our travel planner Richie from Horizontes, and his wife and baby.  We shared highlights of the trip and enjoyed the local barbecue.

Wednesday, March 14   Journey's End
All good times must come to an end. This morning we left San Jose for return flights to the United States.

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