Ecuador – Andes to Amazonia
Nov. 28 – Dec. 11, 2006 - Trip Report

Our Fall 2006 journey to Ecuador was nothing less than extraordinary! We had a grand time atop the Andes at Papallacta Pass, finding Andean Condors and other birds and wildflowers of the paramo habitat. So many of the unique plants were in bloom, it was hard to focus on our search for secretive antpittas and ground tyrants!

During the Amazonia portion of our adventure, we were fortunate to have excellent weather, which allowed us many hours afield. We discovered six species of monkeys, rare Zig-Zag and Agami Herons, and a colorful array of toucans, barbets, tanagers and more. We explored much of this area in dugout canoes on the waters of Anangu Lake and its adjoining creeks, greeted by Black-capped Donacobious, Hoatzin, Limpkin, Snail Kites, and on our final day, a family of Giant Otter!

Returning to the west slope of the Andes at Tinalandia, Bella Vista, and Mindo, we found veritable bird explosions! We encountered mixed flocks of 30 species or more several times a day! While these were challenging, they afforded us looks at such beauties as Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, 50+ species of tanagers (67 tanager species overall) and the rare and local Brown-billed Scythebill, a member of the Woodcreeper family. Near Bella Vista, we got close looks at a highly secretive species, the Ocellated Tapaculo, which is more often heard than seen. At a small farm near Mindo, we watched Andean Cock-of-the-Rock display and met several acclimated species of secretive antpittas; the most notable was a Giant Antpitta named “Maria” that had grown accustomed to humans.

We recorded a remarkable 517 species of birds, members of 55 families. We learned a lot about the endemic species of Ecuador’s geographic regions, and left with a better understanding of the complexity of the Andes and the remarkable diversity of Amazonia. Our fabulous local guides from Neblina Forest and the Napo Wildlife Center provided us with great insights into both the ecology and the regional cultures. We also enjoyed gracious hospitality at delightful lodges and delighted in both Ecuadorian and international cuisine with far too much fervor.

Tues., Nov. 28 Arrival in Quito and Welcome Dinner
Our group arrived in Quito today, several having just finished an incredible week on Naturalist Journeys’ trip to the Galapagos Islands. Nancy and Ginny had come in a day early and enjoyed exploring -- from the nearby park where Nancy saw her first Ecuadorian bird, the Giant Hummingbird, to the museum with its fine collection of pre-Columbian art. Once everyone had arrived and had a brief orientation, we went by taxi to a wonderful Ecuadorian restaurant, La Choza, for our welcome dinner.

Wed., Nov. 29 Papallacta Pass / East Slope of the Andes / Guango
This morning we left early to avoid Quito traffic and to get a head start birding in a variety of habitats as we drove up into the Andes. On this beautiful sunlit day; Cotapaxi Volcano was clearly visible with its shining snowcap; we stopped to photograph it, and also enjoyed our first bird performance by several common species such as Great Thrush and Rufous-collared Sparrow. What luck to have a clear day before us! We left the city behind and began our ascent of Papallacta Pass, noting quite a change in vegetation as we climbed. November is a delightful month for flower enthusiasts; everywhere we went so many things were in bloom – particularly true in the high paramo, or equatorial tundra.

Our first walk was in a small canyon, where we were introduced to such beauties as Buff-bellied Mountain Tanager and the elegant Black-tailed Trainbearer. With over 135 species of hummingbirds in Ecuador we figured someone had to get creative with hummingbird names; we marveled as our guides called out Brilliant, Metaltail, Puffleg, Sunangel, Trainbearer and Woodstar. Walking the road we found a female Tyrian Metaltail attending her nest, hidden well among grasses hanging over the road’s bordering hillside. We examined flowering shrubs and some superb scenery.

Just as we were re-boarding the bus, Edwin, our driver, spotted to Andean Condors roosting on one of the towering cliffs to the north! In seconds we got the scopes on them, getting splendid views of the birds – an adult and a juvenile a few years old -- preening and interacting with each other. Then we were distracted by a Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, another spectacular high country raptor, being mobbed by an American Kestrel. Even with all this activity, what stole the show for many was a Crimson-mantled Woodpecker that flew in, it’s magenta and yellow feathers lit beautifully. What a beginning!

As we traveled further up the pass, Xavier Munoz, owner of Neblina Forest (the excellent company we work with in Ecuador), explained the rugged and complex geography of the Andes, and its effect on speciation and biodiversity. Soon we were back out of the bus to witness some of the species of the paramo. We observed a White-tailed Shrike Tyrant, a rare regional specialty, as well as several other ground and chat tyrants that range into Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. We heard, but could not beckon in the Polylepis Forest specialty, the Giant Conebill; but we did have luck with two species of Cincloides, members of an endemic South American family new to most of us.

We walked among incredible vistas, stopping for a picnic lunch above a high-elevation lake. Then we wandered among tall grasses and myriad blooming shrubs with leathery and hairy leaves -- adaptations to the paramo’s year round near-freezing temperatures. Hot drinks were most welcome as we arrived at our cozy lodge, having crossed the pass at over 12,000 ft.

At the lodge we quickly became engrossed in a ballet of hummingbirds staged between 10 or more feeders. The incredible Swordbill was the star – several were around, vying for nectar. Linda mused on just how it builds it nest, with a beak much longer than its body! An array of smaller hummingbirds presented a pageantry of color and form; some 15 species in all, wow! As night settled in we gathered around a cozy fire; it was cold at this elevation, despite our proximity to the Equator.

Thurs., Nov. 30 East Slope of the Andes Cloud Forests / Nest of the Dipper
This morning we woke to the sounds of Turquoise Jay, which to our delight flew in at close range as we gathered for coffee and more of the hummingbird ballet. Xavier led a walk before breakfast to see mist and clouds framing the edges of bordering mountains as the sun broke through intermittent light showers. Just below the lodge we encountered a great little flock with a few familiar species from home, including a still brightly colored male Blackburnian Warbler. Most of the birds were new to the group: the jaunty little Barred Becard, the secretive Slaty-backed Chat Tyrant, and -- at the end of our walk – the White-capped Dipper, which Peg and Tony had discovered earlier on a nest. What a treat to watch the adults come in at close range and hear the begging cries of the young. Walking back to the bus we found some wild-looking bright blue beetles feeding on the Gunnaria, or “poor man’s umbrella” plants.

Xavier suggested we drive down to see the cloud or “Neblina” forest and its many wonders. Edwin mastered the winding, mountain highway and its mix of truck traffic, tethered llamas and horses, and local people walking with ease. After several stops to scan for Torrent Duck and Torrent Tyrannulet in the fast moving Guango River, we took a back road near Baeza. This town sits at 1,800 meters, compared to the Guango Lodge at 2,600 meters. The trees here were festooned with bromeliads, orchids, mosses, and other epiphytic plants. The sight of a Broad-winged Hawk perched high on such an aerial garden testified to the flexibility of migrant birds! We had super scope views of it and of nearby Russet-backed Oropendolas, active on their long hanging nests. On a side road we got into a large mixed flock with such beauties as Saffron-crowned Tanager.

All too soon the morning passed, so we dashed back up the road to a delicious lunch at Guango. After one last delightful hummingbird show, we collected our things and drove a short way up to Termos Lodge, where several participants enjoyed the hot springs. As she sat in the pools, Linda had a great sighting without even using binoculars: the Giant Hummingbird, the world’s largest hummingbird! Vivian found a bright male Shining Sunbeam on flowers blooming in the garden.

Several of the group ventured out to the adjacent Cayambe-Coca Reserve to search for additional species in the dense paramo shrubbery. Agile Tit-Tyrant was the best bird on this quiet afternoon, but as Ginny said, the scenery made up of for any lack of activity. We walked a road tucked up against near vertical peaks that soared several thousand feet above. Another great day!

Fri., Dec. 1 Descent from the Andes / Quito / Coca / Napo River to Napo Wildlife Center
We left the mountains early to make our scheduled flight for Coca. Through light rain and clouds we caught glimpses of a high snow-covered volcano; closer to Coca we surveyed immense greenery of lowland rainforest. We rode in colorful jitneys – likely former trucks for the banana industry but now outfitted with wooden benches for passengers --to the boat dock. Soon we were floating down the Napo River, calling out sightings of tree-top perching Swallow-wing, Yellow-headed Caracara, Osprey, and a real beauty – the Oriole Blackbird.

After two hours on the Napo we transferred to small dugout canoes: two for our group of nine, with the luggage in another canoe ahead of us. We headed upstream on the Anangu River for another two hours – a trip of almost unimaginable beauty teeming with birds, caiman lizards, heliconia flowers, orchids, monkeys, and more. Huge trees arc over the river; tall aquatic plants and water-sculpted logs cast their reflections over the dark, tannin rich water. The river winds quite a bit, creating a sense of constant discovery, each bend revealing new species.

The Hoatzin was high on everyone’s “must see” list, and we found them quite common, their courtship antics quite amusing. We saw Black-fronted Nunbird, the gorgeous Cinnamon Woodpecker, and elegant Rufescent Tiger-Herons. Golden-mantled Tamarins were our first monkeys for the trip -- what a thrill! We had hoped to see this regional specialty, which is found only south of the Napo River is the logo species for our lodge, the Napo Wildlife Center. Tony said it was one of the most amazing two hours of his life; a natural history feast with two species of jacamar, excellent looks at both Common and Great Potoo, colorful Violaceous Jays, and scolding Black-capped Donacobius.

We reached the junction of the river and Anangu Lake almost at dusk; the call of the Zigzag Heron alluring but elusive. The lights were on in our terra cotta casitas; the manager and his staff greeted us warmly with cups of fresh juice. Then we enjoyed the camaraderie of a good dinner and an introduction to this important tributary of the Amazon by a local guide, Roberto. Tired, we fell into our beds listening to the calls of Common Potoo, Tropical Screech Owl, and Parauque.

Sat., Dec. 2 Napo Wildlife Center / Tiputini Creek Hike / Canopy Tower / Lake Canoe
We enjoyed an early breakfast in the open-air dining room, listening to the sounds of nesting Yellow-rumped Cacique and Russet-backed Oropendola. A group of Hoatzin reluctantly gave up their spots on the dock rail as we boarded canoes to paddle back downriver to its junction with the Tiputini Trail of Yasuni National Park. We walked the trail through lush forest to a clearing, revealing what we quickly nicknamed the “magic tree.” From a nice resting bench we poised three scopes to hone in on such beauties as Yellow-bellied Dacnis and Spangled Cotinga. One species flew in after another, like a well-choreographed dance – this was birding in style!

Then we continued on the trail to find more elusive members of the rainforest: antbirds, woodcreepers, etc. It took time and patience, but we found several members of the antbird family, including the very local Yasuni Antwren. Satisfied, we returned to the lodge for a delicious lunch, a full cooked meal with a lush desert – no weight loss on this trip!

After lunch we had a short break before meeting for two options: either a walk to the Canopy Tower or a canoe ride on the lake. To reach the tower we hiked and then climbed more than 200 steps; but the reward was outstanding. Under the shade of the branches of a giant Ceiba tree, we waited for toucans, aracaris, birds of prey, colorful tanagers, and gaudy woodpeckers to come by. We marveled at the constant parade of species; only the approach of darkness forced us to climb down!

On the canoe ride, Mariano, one of the local guides, found some really great birds, including Least Bittern, Lesser Kiskadee, and glimpses of an elusive Sungrebe. Crossing the lake after dark, we heard Tawny-bellied Screech Owl and watched Pauraque feeding.

Sun., Dec. 3 Napo Wildlife Center / Parrot Clay Licks / Anangu Creek
Waking up at Napo Wildlife Center at dawn is a pleasure listening to owls, potoos, Rufescent Tiger Herons, and the hoarse croaking of Hoatzin. Walking the path to the lights of the breakfast room, delicious coffee, sounds of the canoes readying for our adventures on the lake… We left early to glide down the winding Anangu River to visit two clay mineral licks important to several species of parrots and macaws. As we wanted to be at the licks early, we stopped on the way only to check for Plumbeous Antbird, Silvered Antbird, and a very cooperative Limpkin.

By 7:30 we were in the blind, deafened by the calls of Mealy Parrot and Dusky-headed Parakeets. There were hundreds of them whirling around the sky, joined by the occasional Yellow-crowned Parrot and a troop of Dusky Titi Monkeys. However, something had them edgy and spooked -- perhaps a hawk or a mammal we could not see -- but they just would not come down to the clay. We patiently waited for a couple of hours, enjoying views of Warbling Antbird spotted by Oscar and just all the sounds and behaviors of the birds. The parrots would gather into huge numbers, then come down from the canopy of the trees, only to blow up into the sky with great commotion. Amazing!

We decided to go on to the second lick, where we hoped to see parrots at close-range. Again the parrots seemed restless. We were thrilled to watch them circle and try to approach, but after several hours of observation they were still hesitant to come down. Perhaps it was the larger Scarlet Macaws in the area, or just the general energy of literally thousands of Cobalt-winged Parakeets. In the midst of this profusion, we found handsome Orange-cheeked Parrots and a pair of Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets – lovely!

We returned to the “warehouse” or canoe dock at the mouth of the tributary river we took back to the lodge, enjoying a chance to visit with the local Anangu community. In a small museum, the head medicine man explained many of the customs, ways of life, and values of his people in a fascinating presentation. Mid-afternoon, we paddled back to the lodge, moving slowly because we found so many interesting species. Our timing was fine, however: as we rounded almost the last corner of the river leading into the lake, Roberto spotted a Zig-Zag Heron, one of the rarest and most secretive species of the Amazon region. It was still light enough to photograph, and the bird seemed intent on feeding – we watched it for several moments before gliding silently away in our canoes – wow! Sunset on the lake was lovely, as was the rising of a full moon.

Mon, Dec. 4 Napo Wildlife Center / Canopy Tower
This morning brought both night sounds and a new sound after several days of full sun: thunder. Our wake up call was just before dawn, followed by another delicious breakfast of fresh local fruits, cheeses from Ecuador, French Toast, and homemade yoghurt. We left for the Canopy Tower in two shifts so some could catch a bit more sleep. Lighting sprang like rays from the horizon, but fortunately it quit as we started across the lake in our canoes. It was wonderful to hear all the dawn songs of birds, the raucous calls of macaws flying in pairs above the canopy, and the sound of the paddles in the calm lake water. Near the edge of the lake we encountered roosting Boat-billed Herons, five or more, and got super views thanks to Oscar’s spotlight.

Our brisk walk to the tower was amply rewarded by a rainbow, which grew and intensified until it made a full arc across the sky, framing an unbroken mix of greenery. We decided the weather wouldn’t make the tower unsafe – and the views and bird sightings were absolutely amazing! This morning we had two bright turquoise jewels, Spangled and Plum-throated Cotingas. Tanagers were equally bright; Paradise and Opal-rumped popped up to sun and preen atop a neighboring tree. In our own tree we had Yellow-bellied Dacnis, White-lored Euphonia and a Crested Oropendola, the less common of three species in the area. Several White-throated Toucans teed up for good looks, joined at one juncture by a flock of Many-banded Aracari, a member of a smaller toucan family.

The second group from the lodge joined us in time to see several of these as well as catch a great, though distant view of Red Howler Monkeys. En route to the tower, they got a glimpse of a South American endemic, the Gray-winged Trumpeter. We watched dramatic, full-bellied black rain clouds gather and move swiftly -- soon we were engulfed in rain. Atop our tree platform it was quite an adventure, one we chose to cut short. We returned to the lodge for coffee, dry clothes, and a fascinating discussion on local culture and ecology presented by our local guides.

Just after lunch, as we were settling into various pursuits ranging from photography to a nap, Tony and John called from the small tower above the dining room – Otter, Giant Otter! Indeed you could hear them snorting and calling to each other, five members of a family, as they crossed the lake. We raced down, staying somewhat hidden in the casita where we changed into our boots, then followed their progress from outside Nancy’s porch. What a thrill!

We decided to explore the creek they’d disappeared into on our afternoon outing, hoping for further looks. While we did not spot them again, we did find nesting Blue-and-yellow Macaws peeking out of their nest hole, five species of kingfisher (including the adorable Pygmy Kingfisher), a juvenile Agami Heron, and the iguana-type Caiman Lizard. As in the preceding days, our after dinner tally of species seen was just remarkable, including a Monk Sachi Monkey with a baby!

Tues., Dec. 5 Napo Wildlife Center / Coca / Quito / Tinalandia
We woke at dawn, enjoyed breakfast, and by around 6 a.m. were heading in canoes downriver towards the Napo. Red-bellied Macaws screamed overhead; we admired the grace of roosting Anhingas, and right off the bat spotted two species that many of the group had missed – Little Cuckoo and Chestnut-capped Puffbird. We glided down taking in the sounds of the forest, enthralled at the beauty of plants and their reflections on the river, the morpho butterflies, amber red dragonflies, and many flowering trees. We had super looks at a juvenile Agami Heron and Black-fronted Nunbird.

One of the thrills of the trip was hearing the low rumbling calls of dueting Salvin’s Currasow; their low orchestral sounds seemed to vibrate through the forest. Our skillful local guide, Mariano, found the pair about 20 feet high in a tree, perched where a break in the foliage allowed us to admire their size and plumage. Such a rare and local bird – wow!

At the warehouse we left our dugout canoes to board the motorized canoe; but first we stopped to admire Tufted Woodpecker, Thrush-like Wren, and a pair of Scarlet-headed Barbets. Several of us also enjoyed a bit of shopping, finding local treasures in the handicrafts offered by the Anangu community. Soon we were speeding upriver on the Napo to Coca and our scheduled flight. En route we saw Black Caracara, a group of Swallow-tailed Kites, several Yellow-headed Caracara, and Greater Yellow-headed Vultures. At Coca our wait was short; soon we were lifting off the runway on the 35-minute flight over the Andes to Quito.

In Quito an annual festival was taking place to celebrate the founding of this historic city, so traffic was hectic as we drove to the Hotel Sebastian. We enjoyed our favorite “Locro” soup -- made of potatoes, cheese, and avocado -- and took time to retrieve our things from storage. Lydia and D-Ann were ending their trip here, while seven of us were continuing on to Tinalandia with William Perez, our guide from Neblina Forest.

We soon left the city, following a river and its canyon as we descended the west side of the Andes. Bright male Lemon-rumped Tanagers flashed through the trees, alerting us to the promise of more new species on the trip. We got to the lodge just at dark, drove up the hill to our cottages, and settled in to enjoy an excellent dinner.

Wed., Dec. 6 Tinalandia Feeders and Trails / Chiribongo Road
We woke to a veritable explosion of bird activity right outside of our cabins. We met at 6 a.m., planning to bird and walk down to the open-air dining room, but after an hour we had not moved much more than 50 feet! Luckily we had the cover of a lovely balcony to shield us from some light rain -- a rain that certainly did not slow down the bird activity. For many, a favorite of the enchanting flock was the Pacific Antwren, with a secretive Slaty Spinetail coming in a close second. We saw some beautiful tanagers and euponias, and an amazing array of species from many families, from woodcreepers to wood warblers and more.

We had to finally tear ourselves away; then walking down the hill we encountered Buff-fronted Warbler and Orange-billed Sparrow. By the time we arrived at the dining room we barely had time for our breakfast. Both Pale-mandibled Aracari and Orange-fronted Barbets – the first an Ecuadorian and the other a regional specialty -- came into the fruiting Cecropia trees for great views, then actually came down to the feeders! When a day-glow colored Green Honeycreeper joined them there were gasps all around. We had such fun watching from this wide veranda that we spent a good part of the morning right there, with new species coming in all the time, including a Red-tailed Squirrel.

Later in the morning we took the van back up the hill and had a quick break. Then we walked a trail behind our cabins to a small pond and an open horse pasture, finally looping back through the golf course. Masked Water Tyrant put on a good show, catching insects on the lily pads. A Yellow-tailed Oriole sang and cooperated for scope views, and a Rufous-tailed Jacamar responded to imitations of its call. We enjoyed seeing Yellow Tyrannulet, a bamboo specialist, and a Snowy-throated Kingbird, yet another of many kingbird species in the flycatcher family.

John recognized the golf course as once a citrus and fruit plantation; we enjoyed sampling tangerines and Persian limes as we wandered back. Pallid Doves, a regional endemic, were a good find, and we also spotted two species of seedeaters. Some lovely horses watched our progress. One snuck quickly through the open gate and onto the golf course where it pranced – enjoying its freedom and creating commotion among those left behind. The morning passed all too quickly. We were glad for lunch and an afternoon break to catch our breath!

Around 3 p.m. we got in the van to drive to the nearby Chiribongo Road, a legendary birding location in Ecuador. Although it was quiet compared to our morning experience, none of us will forget the magic of seeing Lyre-tailed Nightjar just at dusk. William knew a pair’s roosting location; in lush forest on a quiet road we were able to see them perched and flying, and to hear their calls. We drove back to dinner at the lodge, feeling quite content with ourselves, when Edwin called, “come, come, owl!” Atop a building next to the dining area was a Black-and-white Owl, one of the larger and most boldly patterned owls of South and Central America. What a way to end a perfect day!

Thurs., Dec. 7 Tinalandia / Rio Silanche Preserve / Sacha Tamia
We gathered early, but as there were new guests on the porch where we had observed birds the morning before, we honored their quiet and walked slowly down the path to the feeders and breakfast. Here we had super looks at Yellow-tufted Dacnis and Ecuadorian Thrush.

After breakfast we packed up our things, took some last photos of the Pacific Honero building its nest, and left our homey cabins. We followed a circuitous route to Mindo, stopping at a small private reserve established within the last last two years. Despite heavy rain that made us take cover during our picnic lunch, the birding here turned out to be quite spectacular. From a small tower we were able to use the scopes to get good views at a number of new species, most notably Slaty-throated Gnatcatcher, Guira, Rufous-throated and Gray and Gold Tanagers.

While we were walking back to the bus the rain stopped completely, perhaps leading to the veritable explosion of birds we saw between the bus, the gate to the main road, and the adjacent hillside. It was wild, with over 30 species noted, and no three people lined up to observe any one bird at a time. Once in a while we could scope a Lineated Woodpecker or a Black-striped Woodcreeper; but many of the birds were moving just too fast – Red-headed Barbet, several antbirds, and Purple-throated Fruitcrow were among the most notable. This preserve encompasses rapidly recovering second-growth forest, which is certainly attractive to a wide variety of species. Taking a last “10-minute” walk we caught up with two elusive antbirds – wonders never cease!

This birding frenzy was taking its toll, however; we had a tired group and it was time to head home to a nice fire, some wine, and a really good dinner. At the end of dinner, the lights went out – surprise! A cake for Ginny’s birthday, fun!

Fri., Dec. 8 Sacha Tamia / Milpe Preserve / Sacha Tamia
Nancy described our optional early morning outing – quite accurately -- as an embarrassment of abundance. We walked out the door with coffee in hand to find a dozen species of hummingbirds at the feeders and Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers just out the door. As we were watching, Beryl-spangled Tanagers came into the trees and a Golden-headed Quetzal made a quick pass over our heads!

As the mist closed in, William wisely led us down to a local hotspot for sightings: a light that attracts moths and thus, in the early morning, a lot of birds to prey on the moths. Our first clue to the abundance was a female Masked Trogon, sitting quietly and allowing us to approach within 10 feet. We watched a procession of Tricolored Brush-Finch, Dusky-faced Tanagers, Fawn-breasted Tanager, and a trio of Sepia-backed Wrens; then we were distracted by the male trogon, a Squirrel Cuckoo, and several Crimson-rumped Toucanets! Tony spotted the incredible Toucan Barbet, which again was quite tame as it polished off several moths with ease. If this was not enough, we had a canopy group of Golden and Summer Tanagers, Red-eyed and Brown-capped Vireos, and a number of other species. It was simply remarkable, and only our desire for breakfast hastened our return. On the way up the driveway however, Linda spotted a group of bright Yellow-collared Chlorophonias, which we got in the scope for some marvelous viewing.

By the time we finished breakfast it was no longer raining, so we opted to drive to Milpe to visit the second of the Mindo Cloud Forest Foundation preserves. A small visitor’s center offered the chance for some much needed shopping – great T-shirts with Toucan Barbet, local handicrafts, and woodcarvings. We shopped during a brief shower, then took off on a loop trail.

The slippery trail was slow-going, but along the way we encountered what was a highlight of the trip for many: an active lek of Club-winged Manakin, one amazing little bird. We heard them calling before we got the lek; proceeding slowly and quietly, we were able to observe their displays. These little black and red dynamos bobbed back and forth, throwing their wings over their heads with a cracking sound, and hopping side to side rapidly from branch to branch. The sight and sound of other males prompted an even greater frenzy – what a thrill to observe the complexity of such mating rituals at a remote forest lek!

Soon the antics of the manakins was rivaled by the appearance of Choco Toucans and Pale-mandibled Aracaris; this was followed by a rapid mixed flock in which we saw our first two species of the Foliage gleaner clan, as well as a Montane Woodcreeper and an Ornate Flycatcher. We tried to stay with this flock, as it contained many species, but it veered off the trail and into a steep ravine. We carefully made our way forward, helping each other over roots and mud, finally rewarded by close views of Broad-billed Motmot.

Further up the trail we came out into a clearing and found an active but difficult flock to sort through, revealing Ochre-bellied and Grass-green Tanager, Scaly-throated Foliage Gleaner, and later, Smoky-brown Woodpecker. We heard a few more of the Choco Region endemic species (Choco Trogon and Moss-backed Tanager), but did not catch sight of them. Light rain was falling and lunch was calling, so we returned to Sacha Tamia for lunch, a rest, time to observe hummingbirds, and for some, an afternoon trip to town.

Sat., Dec. 9 Paz de las Aves Reserve / Andean Cock-of-the-Rock / Maria / Return to Milpe
This morning was our earliest of the trip, inspired by a strong desire to see Andean Cock of the Rock. Our best bet was to visit a known lek guarded by local farmers Angel and Rodrigo Paz. We arrived in the moonlight, which was bright enough to pick out Band-tailed Nightjar feeing above us and then returning to rest on the warmth of the road. We started our walk downhill through a grove of passion fruit and tree tomatoes, then into native forest. Near the lek Angel had built a blind; we could hear the Cock of the Rock calling as we approached. While it was too dark for photography, we had marvelous views of three males displaying, moving back and forth on their perches high in the canopy, flicking their black and white wings like rock stars on stage.

It seemed impossible to find something to top this, but what followed was one of the most amazing insights into nature. With immense patience and several months of regular effort, Angel and Rodrigo have acclimated three species of secretive antpittas to come in to feed on earthworms! The first species they worked with, the Giant Antpitta, was once thought locally extinct in Ecuador; but now in front of us was an individual named “Maria” walking right down the path in response to Angel’s whistle! We sat quietly, but the bird seemed comfortable with our presence as Angel kept talking to it quietly. Giant is a good adjective: this chunky bird stands a foot high and hops around like a little kangaroo. Then two smaller Yellow-breasted Antpittas, “Willy” and “Esmerelda,” came in, a bit more shy and obviously respectful of the larger Maria. In the still dim light, Willy and Esmerelda were bright gems, hopping about on the forest floor, curious and trusting. Most importantly, Angel and Rodrigo have been able to follow the nesting cycle of these rare species and describe many of the birds’ habits. From a distance we were able to view a Moustached Antpitta on her nest, a structure of leaves low on the side of a large tree trunk. Three species of antpitta in one day, and at close range…!

We returned to share our elation over some fresh coffee, tree tomato fruit, and some delicious freshly made empanadas. A colorful Black-capped Tanager came into the trees where we sat to eat, and soon we were back on the trail, finding Powerful Woodpecker, Sickle-winged Guan, more Golden-headed Quetzals, and a host of smaller species. The visit to the Paz de las Aves Reserve was truly a highlight (one of many!) of our visit.

Some of our group elected to stay and relax at Sacha Tamia in the afternoon while others returned to Milpe to search for some Choco endemic species. We again failed to find Moss-backed Tanager (which was elusive, and calling) but were richly rewarded by finding other species, such as Brown-billed Scythebill, at very close range. The afternoon passed quickly; we returned to another delicious dinner and a fascinating discussion of Ecuador’s indigenous people, mining, and conservation by the fire.

Sun., Dec. 10 Bella Vista / Orchid Gardens / Quito
This morning we left early to look for a few more classic Choco Region and cloud forest species. On our short drive up to Bella Vista we made several stops along the road, one for a White-tailed Hawk Tony spotted as it flew above the forest canopy, carrying prey. As the weather was brilliant, we stopped for photos and views of the Andes, with splendid looks at Pinchincha Volcano and other sculpted peaks in the region.

William heard a loud call, looked at us to see if we could make the effort to find it – Ocellated Tapaculo! We crept silently off the road and along a small ridgeline as the bird called and called in the thickest vegetation. Then it responded to us and flew in – quite low – for inspection. No one spoke a word as we watched it bob and call from a small open perch – only the sound of clicking cameras broke the silence.

What a remarkably patterned bird, chunky and large for its family. This fine view was representative of our recent luck, as was the subsequent splendid sighting of Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, a colorful species chosen for the cover of the Ecuadorian bird field guide. We found several species we’d hoped for, including Western Hemispingus (a bamboo specialist) and Rufous-headed Pygmy Tyrant; we even caught a quick look at Beautiful Jay.

We returned to pack up our things, enjoy a delicious lunch of a gazpacho-type soup followed by lasagna, and then drive back to Quito. Our group was fond of flowers, so a stop at a local orchid garden seemed perfect way to break up our drive. We also hoped to find one last hummingbird – the White-tailed Hillstar, a large species that came right to the feeders by a small shelter at the start of our trail.

Our evening was spent repacking and at dinner, recounting our many adventures. No one could choose favorites, but Nancy pulled for the Lyre-tailed Nightjar and the pre-dawn walk to see Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Vivian spoke of the signature birds like Hoatzin, and John noted the amazing overall diversity. We were grateful to our talented local guides, and for the smooth logistics Neblina Forest provided for our exploration of the Andes and Amazonia.

Mon., Dec. 11 Departures
It was an early morning for all, as we left to meet our planes in Quito and to travel back to our respective destinations. The hotel kindly offered us early breakfast, and all went smoothly getting the airport. With 517 species of birds on our trip list, we were certainly sated, but still were sad to end our remarkable journey!

 

 

Photo Credits:
To Come!

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