Florida Everglades and Keys
Nov. 2004 - Trip Report

Monday, Nov. 15 Miami / Shark Valley, Everglades National Park
Several of our group arrived in early, so they were able to enjoy a morning visit to the Fairchild Gardens in nearby Coral Gables. We gathered by 1:30 to drive out to Shark Valley and the magnificent “River of Grass” that is so characteristic of the Everglades. On the way, we pulled off the busy highway, hoping to see a Snail Kite; our sighting turned out to be a Red-shouldered Hawk, but we got great views before continuing our trip. Along the canal that parallels the Tamiami Trail, we started to spot a variety of herons and egrets, Double-crested Cormorant, Anhinga, American Kestrel, and Belted Kingfisher.

We arrived with time to look around a bit, sample the visitor’s center, and board our tram for a two-hour introduction to Everglades National Park (ENP). Our excellent interpreter explained the various habitats, the seasonal dynamics of water flow, and the life habits of everything from American Alligators to White-tailed Deer. Maggie loved seeing the numerous Halloween Pendant dragonflies. Others called out the herons: Great Blue, Great Egret, Little Blue, and Tricolored. We had close-up views of several alligators, including a little group of young ones, still striped black and yellow, hiding under the roots of a tree. A Red-shouldered Hawk jetted by, giving us a great look at its plumage; two, huge Soft-Shelled Turtles swam below us during a stop at the Observation Tower.

Those arriving later walked part of the tram route, getting super looks at Purple Gallinule and several types of herons. White-tailed Deer fed on sedges while up to their bellies in water, epitomizing the flexibility of this widespread species. We tried again to spot Snail Kites at a known roost site off Highway 41, but were unsuccessful. With the sunset at our backs we drove to Flamingo Lodge – 40 miles deep into ENP. After settling in, we had a super welcome dinner with some delicious appetizers and, for many, fresh local fish and shrimp.

Tuesday, Nov. 16 Mangrove Forests / Florida Bay / Local Ponds
With no scheduled activities until 9:30 a.m., some slept in while others explored the shores of Florida Bay as dawn greeted us. The mosquito welcome committee was here to greet us; this summer’s hurricanes had kept water levels high, extending their season. Once the wind started, the mosquitoes were entirely tolerable, but for a time in the morning they provided quite a challenge.

Aboard the park’s Pelican Backcountry boat, we escaped the bugs and enjoyed quietly motoring through the Buttonwood Canal and the rich and complex mangrove ecosystem. Our rather melodramatic local interpreter kept us entertained but did not eclipse the magic and beauty of the ride. Julie and Hani marveled at the maze of Red Mangrove roots, while Nancy and Rolla tried for close-up shots of Osprey and Great Blue Heron. Maggie kept saying, “I don’t feel like I’m in the United States.” Surrounded by tropical mangroves – as well as other tropical trees such as Jamaican Dogwood and Manchineel -- we all agreed! A real treat was seeing two well-acclimated American Crocodile, pulled up on shore to warm up in the sun. This pair is well known to the locals, but for us they were remarkable and new. Julie pointed out a front-page article in a local paper on the controversy surrounding the spread of recovering crocodile populations (it’s always fun while traveling to see what makes the local paper).

John Good, former superintendent of the Everglades and a guest/guide on our trip, provided an overview of the Everglades while Peg and Edna put out the lunch spread. Our picnic site on Florida Bay was ideal: scores of wading birds fed and flew about in flocks, and we were blessed with a breeze. Osprey were calling and courting, showing off abundant catches of fish. Don saw one trying to eat on the wing – awkward at best! Judy spotted our first Roseate Spoonbill: it flew by just above eye level, so we could admire the brilliant pink plumage and deep magenta and black wing patches. Peg put the scope on Dunlin, Semipalmated Sandpiper, Least Sandpiper, and Short-billed Dowitcher, while Maggie found Spotted Sandpiper and Willet.

Some of our group elected to return to our nearby accommodations for a rest, while others ventured out in search of wintering ducks. We had seen Ruddy Duck, Northern Shoveler, and Lesser Scaup at a distance in the morning, but had no closer views at the three ponds we checked in the afternoon. We did find a Prairie Warbler and another Roseate Spoonbill, plus a very large alligator. At 4:15 we rendezvoused for the afternoon sunset cruise on Florida Bay.

It was a warm night with clear skies -- a beautiful evening to be out in the bay. We were surrounded by hordes of wading birds catching their last morsels of food. As high tide moved in, they gathered on diminishing sandbars and then took to the air, flying in long lines to the small mangrove islands that dot the bay and other roosting sites. Lines of White Ibis, Tricolored Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, and others poured back and forth in a mesmerizing rhythm. With a clear horizon we got a good show of the Green Flash at sunset -- a first for many in our group.

Wednesday, Nov. 17 Mahogany Key / Anhinga Trail
During our morning at Mahogany Key, we heard “look up!” and were delighted to spot a Wood Stork. It flew over at a height that provided a good view of its wrinkled “iron head” and prehistoric-looking shape. Soon, a flock of 15 was wheeling about. John Phelps spotted a dark morph Short-tailed Hawk at the trail end of the parking lot – an immature bird we could examine well even from a distance. Then a light morph adult came in as we entered the hammock (serendipity!), allowing part of our group to see it in detail.

Peg reviewed the development of hardwood hammocks, and John Good discussed how changes in climate and sea level during Pleistocene glaciation affected the area. A Red-bellied Woodpecker chimed in, calling from a large Cabbage Palm. Inside the hammock we admired tropical trees, had a quick look at an Ovenbird, and got a good look at a Prairie Warbler still in bright plumage. Gloria spotted the first beautifully colored Tree Snail. There was so much to see we made plans to return, because we were due at the park’s headquarters to meet with Rick Cook, the public relations officer.

It was fun for John Good to see his old office. In the conference room, Rick Cook provided a marvelous summary of the history and current status of water flow related to the Everglades. At the Visitors Center, butterflies were flying briskly over flowering mints and trumpet flower -- we spotted Zebra Longwing, a male Queen, Dusky Long-tailed Skipper, and a Large Orange.

We stopped for lunch at a local county park, taking time to search for a reported vagrant Vermilion Flycatcher, a beautiful bird quite out of its normal range here. We didn’t find the flycatcher, but a noisy family of Loggerhead Shrikes and a procession of birds coming to rest on several prominent dead snags entertained us. We had a great time exploring Lucky Hammock, a small island of green in the agricultural fields. We found a lush stand of fruiting Wild Grape that attracted numerous Catbirds, Cardinals, and a female Summer Tanager. We had super looks at a White-eyed Vireo, and found two color variations of Tree Snail.

Then it was back to ENP to walk the Anhinga Trail boardwalk in the lovely, late afternoon light. While we saw no rarities -- other than a Short-tailed Hawk about two miles high -- we did enjoy watching several nearby herons and White-faced Ibis. A very cooperative Great White Heron posed near a sign saying, “Fishing Reserved for the Birds.” We spotted several huge alligators sunning themselves a safe distance away. Edna spotted an Alligator Gar, as well as a bass near a nest site with an alligator lurking nearby.

Our final stop was a short loop trail to an observation point at Pay-ha-okee. We did not see any Barred Owls – which sometimes hang out here before going out to hunt – but enjoyed the beautiful sunset over such a vast expanse, our view dotted with the odd shapes of numerous Pond Cypress. Julie admitted it was almost as good as a Nebraska sunset! We enjoyed very good dinners back at Flamingo, some going in for full service and several taking a lighter snack in the bar.

Thursday, Nov. 18 Florida Bay / Pinelands / Wild Bird Center / the Keys
We spent the morning in ENP to see a few last inhabitants before going to the Keys. Several of us went down to give blood to the mosquitoes at Eco Pond and the Flamingo Beach before breakfast – wow! Maggie spotted an American Bittern close enough to train the scope on, and John Phelps called out three Glossy Ibis that flew in to give us a good show. We spotted Common Moorhen, almost all the species of wading birds, and were treated to a super show by a mature Red-shouldered Hawk. Nancy really enjoyed trying out a new scope this morning. John Good went to see what a nearby photographer was focused on – an American Alligator with an Anhinga in its jaws!

After breakfast we returned to work on shorebird identification, and found an immature Yellow-crowned Heron in the yoga position, soaking up the sun. There was a good flock on the roost site to examine; all got good looks at Least, Semi-palmated, and Western Sandpipers, Dunlin, and other members of the clan.

Then we returned – as promised – to Mahogany Hammock, which was very quiet today. We admired the trees, many of West Indian origin, before starting the trail at Pinelands. A flock of Pine and Yellow-rumped (Myrtle) Warblers was fairly easy to spot in the open crowns of the Slash Pine. We found several tree snails and a good variety of wildflowers. Then we just had to try once more for the vagrant Vermilion Flycatcher. This time we were successful: everyone got to admire this little beauty as he sallied out for insects from a favorite perch on a fence.

Lunch at Gusto’s was fun -- cold draft beer, grilled Mahi-mahi sandwiches, big salads, and burgers. Then we began our drive down the Keys, spotting wading birds and several Belted Kingfishers en route. We arrived at the Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center in time for the 3:30 feeding. The number of wild birds that come in for this feed is equal to the number of injured ones on site. It’s a photographer’s dream, as these elegant creatures focus on each other and the food, leaving us free to shoot away. From blinds near a bayside pond we had excellent views of Roseate Spoonbills; Hani and Julie were mesmerized by their beauty and plumage highlights of dark magenta. Mary loved the antics of pelicans, egrets, and ibis; Maggie, from California, loved seeing the Eastern Blue Jays.

After about an hour at the center, we drove another 30 miles south to our lodgings at Lime Tree Bay Resort. Arriving in time to watch the sunset, we had another, quite large GREEN FLASH on a clear horizon. Several had a delicious dinner next door; Peg encouraged others to try Cuban food at the renowned restaurant, Manny & Isa’s. It was delicious, fun, and incredibly slow – we had lots of time to visit!

Friday, Nov. 19 Long Key/ Boot Key/ Bahia Honda
Sitting with a cup of coffee by the bay, in the company of wading birds and terns – what a great way to start the day! Eurasian Collared Doves and Common Myna, two new species for this trip, watched with curiosity as we packed the vans for the day. We headed south on Highway 1, following some leads on good places to find birds. And, in honor of Edna Good, we just had to stop at nearby Lake Edna. The light morph Reddish Egret was right there for great scope views -- although as John Phelps said, it would have been great to see its strange feeding antics. Four Greater Yellowlegs lounged on the rocks nearby. Hani and Gloria spotted some fine Horseshoe Crab shells.

We then drove to the Marathon airport, taking a back road in search of a Scissor-tailed Flycatcher. Success! A lovely female perched low on a fence; we later had views of a bright male out on Boot Key. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed Sombrero Beach and County Park: although we found no owls or raptors, we did have great looks at Ruddy Turnstone and marveled at the jade and turquoise sea. On Boot Key, Julie spotted a perched, immature Broad-winged Hawk for all to see, but the local Peregrine was not on point atop the cell tower.

For lunch we opened Peg and Edna’s bar and grill at picnic tables on the swimming beach at Bahia Honda State Park. Gloria and Maggie opted for a three-hour snorkeling tour of Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary. Huge swells and some offshore winds tested their endurance, but they did see some great fish on this outer reef. The rest of us looked for butterflies -- Cassias Blue, Zebra Longwing, Gulf Fritillary, Great Southern White, Martial Hairstreak, and more. Peg pointed out odd looking Knickerbean plants, which may have been distributed by early rum runners; we learned some history of the Bahia Honda bridge; and all enjoyed the film on Henry Flaggler’s early efforts to build hotels on and a railroad through the Keys.

We enjoyed some free time on Bahia Honda that afternoon. Nancy, Hani, Mary, and Judy braved a swim (refreshing!), while others read and soaked up the sun (or shade). Some walked the beach, where they found more Ruddy Turnstone, watched several Osprey overhead, and saw a Sanderling fly by.

At dusk we took off to find some Key Deer in the national wildlife refuge. The refuge personnel agreed with John Phelps, who had explored this area quite a bit, that at dusk we were likely to see them in the residential areas rather than in thicker forested areas of the refuge. On a grassy lawn, w soon spotted a little male, about 75 lbs. with his antler buttons intact – fun. We found a few more out on open roads between mangroves before heading home. Dinner was super – fabulous coconut shrimp, grouper, and more at the Lazydays Oceanfront Restaurant.

Saturday, November 20 Lignum Vitae Key / Whidley Key
Early risers could walk to the beach just outside their rooms, greeting the sun as it lit up the bay and watching herons flying by. Our first stop this morning was Robbie’s Marina, where a comfortable speedboat took us – in three shifts -- out to Lignum Vitae Key. Those on the later shifts marveled at the huge tarpon that came up to the dock, expecting to be fed; some were four feet long or more, and looked very plump!

On Lignum Vitae Key, a path lined with palms and huge Jamaican Dogwood led into a grassy field accented with cannons salvaged from an old Spanish galleon. We toured the historic home, built by a textile magnate. Then we walked out to the hammock, greeted at the start of the path by a large Yellow Orb Spider that had spun a massive web between a tree and the boardwalk railing. Our interpreter, John Henry, gave us details of a dozen or more tropical trees, including Ironwood, Spanish Stopper, Poisonwood, Milkwood, and many more (by now these tropical trees’ names were starting to stick!). The state record Lignum Vitae, largest diameter in the state, was a gnarled and twisted specimen of modest size; it left us wondering about the giants once harvested to make a variety of useful products from the dense, self-lubricating wood. John Good marveled at the character of the place, a truly mature hardwood hammock with giant Mastic and Gumbo Limbo and a rich understory of palms and tropical trees. In the open area near the house we spotted Palm Warbler and Northern Mockingbird; we also had fine looks at the dark subspecies of Mourning Dove, and at female Painted Bunting feeding on grass seeds on the lawn. We heard a White-eyed Vireo, well hidden in the dense growth.

On to conch chowder and other delights at Ziggie’s Crab Shack, a favorite of John and Edna’s in the past. Teresa continued her survey of the quality of Key Lime Pie. Some opted for time to relax and visit the beach back at our hotel, while the rest of us went on to visit Whidley Key Geologic State Park. This park preserves an old, shallow limestone quarry and the equipment used to mine the limestone for structural and decorative building materials. John Good’s lecture on coral reef development and activity was fascinating, illustrated by the fossil coral still visible in the quarry rock. We took a final walk through another hammock in hopes of finding some roosting White-crowned Pigeons, but a local naturalist said that some early cold weather had driven them away. We enjoyed actually recognizing many of the trees mentioned in the interpretive materials.

For the final dinner of the main tour we celebrated at the Morada Bay Café, a great spot on the bay. We had delicious, creative dinners and even better desserts. From our tables we could watch the sunset, which sort of lingered among clouds tonight – no green flash. Several stayed afterwards to shop at the rather remarkable Worldwide Sportsman store next to the café.

Sunday November 21 Key West
We spent morning relaxing and packing. Today John Phelps and the Goods parted ways – we were sorry they couldn’t continue with us. On the way down to Key West we stopped again at Lake Edna, where we were treated to good scope views of a dark morph Reddish Egret. We also stopped at Boot Key, where we were thrilled with the sight of a mature Bald Eagle flying overhead. Stopping for lunch at the far beach of Bahia Honda, we finished up our picnic delectables while enjoying the breeze and ocean vista.

For one of our vans, the first stop in Key West was a house where Nancy lived when she was in 10^th grade; it was in a historic neighborhood, where ante-bellum homes, lovely old trees, and lush gardens lined the narrow streets. Nancy was excited to find this special place still intact and beautiful.

After checking into our quaint hotel – also in the island’s historic district – we separated to explore the island. Four went to seek out a rare and coveted bird, the Western Spindalis. Nancy spotted it high in a Gumbo Limbo; but, alas, Maggie saw it fly away. Others took the Conch Train for a tour of island highlights. Teresa and Lisa opted to explore the downtown scene, stopping for a margarita before heading down to the docks to experience the carnival atmosphere of the daily “Sunset Celebration.” Many had dinner at The Pier, a deluxe seaside resort where we sat out on the deck, watching the cigarette boats race by and the silver flash of fish in the dark waters below.

Monday, Nov. 22 The Dry Tortugas / Key West Shopping
We woke early to be down at the dock by 7:15 for our all-day trip to the Dry Tortugas National Park. After our captain, “Tortuga Jack,” gave us a summary of the trip, we quickly got our seats on the bow where we could look for seabirds en route. Leaving views of bay-front businesses and luxury homes behind, we ventured out to the most remote national park in the U.S. This was a new destination for all of us, recommended by John Good and others. Royal Terns and Herring Gull were fairly common; then a large bird with a Sulid profile banked off the left side of the boat – an immature Northern Gannet. It came in close for excellent views; several other individuals passed by as we passed the Marquesas Islands. We had blessedly calm seas for the 2-1/2-hour voyage; soon Fort Jefferson came into view. Entering the harbor, we saw Brown Boobys, in good number, resting on the buoys.

A walled fortress is an impressive sight anywhere; but on this small coral reef island at the southern edge of the U.S., it was particularly remarkable. Some 16 million bricks were used to build the fort in the mid-1800s; the walls were eight feet thick. We wandered solo or with a guide to explore the fort, its interior courtyard, and its moat. Several went quickly to the beach, lured by the jade and turquoise water. John Good had told us the best fish and coral were right along the wall of the moat, and he was right. Gloria spotted a host of colorful fish, and we were soon following. How wonderful to dive into this watery realm, losing track of the world and all our cares!

We also had time to walk a spit of beach that led to a smaller island -- turning over shells and watching Magnificent Frigatebirds hunting for materials for nests on the neighboring Key. With binoculars we could see the male frigatebirds displaying; Mary called out, “they look like red balloons!” A Peregrine Falcon, which buzzed over flocks of Sanderling and Ruddy Turnstone before perching on the communications tower, captured everyone’s attention. Rolla and Maggie had spotted a male American Redstart in breeding plumage – it was great fun to watch it catch gnats, seemingly indifferent to our presence. Rolla and Hani found the corpse of a small hammerhead shark washed up on the beach.

Our four hours on the island passed quickly – the mix of history, birds, architecture, and sea life was so intriguing. We had a beautiful, clear-sky day -- 82 F with a water temperature of 78 F -- what a delightful way to spend a November day! We hated to board the boat to depart. On the way back, our captain took a detour to bring us within viewing range of another island where Masked Boobys were nesting.

Back at Key West, we did some quick shopping and packing. Then we gathered for a delightful final dinner at Café Med next to our hotel. Don enjoyed this meal over any of the trip – at our big table we enjoyed good wine, conversation, and a wide selection of entrees. And, yes, we did try one last Key Lime Pie.

Wednesday, Nov. 23 Departures from Miami
We had to drive over 150 miles back to the Miami Airport, so we got an early start. We stopped on the way at the Islamorada Bakery, a wonderful local spot for breakfast. Several in the group bought bakery items to sustain them for the rest of the drive. We all made it to Miami Airport without a hitch, but many were later delayed by tremendous thunderstorms in Texas. Apparently, it was too much to expect that the spectacular weather we had enjoyedthroughout the trip would stay with us as we flew home!

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