The Fiji Islands
Nature, Birding, Snorkeling & Culture
November 2005 - Trip Report

Sun., Nov. 6 – Tues., Nov. 8 Flight to and Arrival in Fiji
On Sunday night we met at the Los Angeles airport (LAX) for our overnight flight to the South Pacific, landing at Nadi, Fiji at dawn on Nov. 8 (having crossed the international dateline en route). After so many months of planning we had finally arrived in this lush and exotic archipelago! Just out of the airplane Doug pointed out Pacific Swallows on the edge of the building, and we scrambled to find our binoculars. Verdant hills framed our views. We got through customs and immigration with ease and soon were enjoying coffee and looking at shops with local handicrafts while we waited for Air Fiji to open the domestic check-in for our flight to Suva. We stretched our legs and started birding right there at the airport, where dozens of Flame Trees, several types of wild ginger, and Heliconia were all in bloom. We had super looks at the endemic Fiji Woodswallow perched in the trees, and a Red-headed (Fiji) Parrotfinch delighted the group with its antics as it collected nest material. We watched both species of myna (neither was shy); then, attracted by its vibrant call, we searched dense foliage and found the Polynesian Triller.

Having recently changed aircraft types, Air Fiji needed to bring another aircraft in to transport our group. We lost several hours and had to reorganize to travel in two shifts, a bit trying after a long flight. Once reunited in Suva, we enjoyed a delicious lunch buffet at our hotel, settled into our rooms, and ventured out to explore.

The Thurston Gardens and Fiji National Museum were just two blocks from our hotel. We walked down Victoria Parade in view of the ocean to the arch of trees marking the garden. We found an array of tropical trees, including Sausage Tree, giant palms and a relative of Hawaii’s Koa that attracted a variety of birds. Right off Peg spotted a Fiji Goshawk sportingstriking pink and blue-toned plumage, working on its stick nest in an open canopy tree – wow! We also saw a variety of the small birds: Silvereye, Wattled Honeyeater, and Vanikoro Flycatcher (male and female). We caught great views of Orange-breasted Myzomela.

The museum was outstanding! Mary Louise pointed us to an upstairs room with a display of tapa cloth – a gorgeous infusion of tapa! Downstairs a display of massive maritime vessels from centuries past imparted a sense of power, self-sufficiency, and freedom to explore the seas. The museum even displayed the actual rudder of the ship The Bounty, sitting among cannibal forks, war medals, and photos illustrating chapters of Fijian history.

During our dinner at Tiko’s Floating Island Restaurant we tried many of the local fresh fish while enjoying the music and the warmth of the wooden interior. As our group chatted and got to know each other, we rocked with the waves of the harbor and gazed out at the lights of ships from all over the world.

Wed., Nov. 9 Savena Creek Watershed / Suva
This morning we had a good and filling buffet breakfast at the hotel; Gingy quickly drew our attention to the delicious coconut muffins and fresh papaya and pineapple. By 7:30 we were heading to the local Savura Creek Watershed, otherwise known as Pipeline Road. We made good time out of the city, but found a locked gate and a patient guard who explained he must have a letter from his supervisor to let us in. So back up the hill we went to the Public Works plant to wait. Doug took folks walking down the road, while Peg waited for the wheels of bureaucracy to turn – actually a fairly quick and smooth process.

With intermittent rain all day long, we battled with fog on our glasses and binoculars a bit, but in between swipes we found some amazing things. The flowers were vibrant: brilliant pink and white bamboo orchids were everywhere, as well as a taller orchid with smaller blooms, indigo-colored vervain, and a yellow flower Doug said was similar to Primrose Willow in Hawaii.

We drove up the road through a gorgeous, towering forest with many native trees. Two species of large doves, Barking and White-throated, were much in evidence. One of our first sightings was a real prize: Gail spotted a large swift whose flight pattern resembled that of a bat. Doug recognized it was a White-tailed Needletail, a fast flying migrant from Asia and a rarity in Fiji.

Farther up the road we walked, admiring the myriad of tree ferns, vines, epiphytes, and flowering plants. Birding was slow but steady. Eventually we had scope views of a female Golden Dove, and then saw its banana-colored mate in flight. The song of the Fijian Bush Warbler was cheery and bright, mixing with Polynesian Triller. In a narrow draw we spotted a mixed flock, getting the best looks at Slaty (Monarch) Flycatcher and Streaked Fantail. Eventually most got a look at both Silvereye and Fijian White-eye. Ending up at waterlily-filled pond, we heard a loud squack and looked up, delighted by a great sighting of Masked Shining Parrot with its yellow belly – what a beauty! We also had superb scope looks at Collared Kingfisher, and several in the group managed to get super photos of it.

We had lunch on the porch of the Raintree Inn, overlooking its lovely pond and enjoying delicious food. We caught some great looks at birds: a good-sized flock of Masked Shining Parrots on the grounds, and a Vanikoro Flycatcher on its nest, a sculptured lichen cup adhered to the tree like an oversized hummingbird nest. On the volleyball court we found a bevy of native Fiji Tree Frogs – tiny, well-camouflaged little dynamos!

After birding on the grounds, we continued on to nearby Colo-y-Suva Park. Here, a local guide took those who wanted to hike to a small waterfall and a series of swimming pools along the creek. Parrots circled overhead and the group got more good looks at Barking Pigeon. Doug scouted out a few new birds for the birding crew: Island Thrush that sang and sang, a furtive Fiji Shrikebill (whose fainter whistle was easily lost in the dense underbrush) and the beautiful Golden Whistler -- first a pair, then a chocolate-colored juvenile. Impressive rains turned us back towards the bus; by 4:30 we were headed home, driving by Suva Point, the parliament building, and the governor’s house along the way. From the hotel we could see lots of ships in the harbor and mist over the mountains – a picturesque end to a great day!

After a break back at the hotel, we went to the pool area to enjoy the hotel’s cocktail party. In the evening two guests joined us: author and local bird expert Dick Wattling, and marine biologist Helen Sykes. Doug provided a great overview of the geography of Oceania, and Helen gave an excellent talk with images of all the colorful marine life we would start to see once on the island of Taveuni.

Thurs., Nov. 10 Suva to Taveuni
We packed up our gear today and went to the airport, thinking we might have a long wait; but soon we were aboard two small planes heading for Taveuni. At the Maravu Plantation Resort we walked into the loveliest great room decorated with arrangements featuring fresh coconuts.

Only some of our rooms were ready this early in the morning, so we decided the pool area was the place to wait – amazingly refreshing before lunch. Gail took some of the group snorkeling off the beach in the afternoon, but others decided to pass as an earlier squall had really kicked up the waves. Those who went out encountered a fabulous world at the fringing reef edge. We found indigo-colored starfish, dozens of other colorful fish, huge sea cucumbers, and a small Banded Sea Snake.

Dinner was a traditional Fijian meal cooked in the lovo oven, an outdoor pit of lava rock lined with coconut leaves and shells. Before dinner residents of one of the nearby villages came to sing and dance for us. What a spectacle, full of energy and offering endearing glimpses of the local people. Young boys danced up a storm with spears, young girls swayed to a more peaceful rhythm, and all sang beautifully. They even lured a few of us up on the dance floor before all was done! We then ate a delicious dinner while Daniel Schmidtt, Sala Apao, and several staff members from the Bouma Heritage Project briefed us on our next two days of activities with them.

Fri., Nov. 11 Vidawa Forest Preserve / Lunch at a Local Village
This morning we met our guides from the Bouma Heritage Park project at a small hut by the roadside. We walked up a steep slope through cultivated pastures to the lush Vidawa Forest, learning about local plants as we rested along the way. Although a light mist began to fall, bird activity once we reached the forest was quite good: we got super looks at Streaked Fantail and Slaty (Monarch) Flycatcher. Hearing a light, single-note call repeating high in the canopy, our guides became very alert – it was a male Orange Dove, our most sought-after species. What a sight! This bird is memorable in every way, and it even sat cooperatively for all to get a look. Suddenly, into the branch just under it flew a male Silktail, another endemic and probably our second most-coveted bird. Amazing!

Luckily they appeared before the rain began – an absolute downpour that turned our walk into high adventure. Partially protected by the dense canopy, we learned to give up and just get wet; so we still enjoyed the walk, learning about medicinal plants and looking at some giant trees. Several abandoned their umbrellas and got saturated – truly soaking up the essence of the rainforest! The trail became a small stream that we followed back down the hill to the village that was hosting us for lunch. Janet said she really enjoyed the cooling effect of the rains – indeed though we all were dripping wet we had big smiles on our faces.

The village of Vidawa had lunch waiting for us in their centrally located community house. Daniel Schmidtt from the Peace Corps office and Sala Apao from the Bouma Project had coordinated our visit. Sala’s stature in the community was obvious as she took care of us and helped us mingle with the village residents. Brightly colored sulas hung on the line, wetter now than when they were laundered, waiting for the next appearance of the sun. They mingled with colors of roosters, orchids, and bright plants. The simple corregated metal huts were dry and welcoming inside, decorated with beautiful fabrics and grass mats on the floor. Mary Louise reported that residents had cleared a hut for us to change in and another for naps if we wanted to take them! We filled up on hot lemon tea, rice, and various dishes of fish, coconut, and taro. The villagers sang songs for us, and we sang, “You are my Sunshine” for them. Bud won their hearts with his camera, taking photos of the children and showing them the digital images on his screen. As the rains had not let up, we chose to forego our afternoon plans and return to relax at Maravu, a most comfortable place to do just that!

It was nice to have the free time. Two dueling pairs of Fiji Goshawk patrolled the large trees above the garden, screaming at regular intervals, while an Orange-breasted Myzomela (a small honeyeater) worked busily on the hibiscus. Jean and Nancy saw a Lesser Frigatebird soaring overhead. We hung our clothes out on lines, and several enjoyed a nap. At dusk we gathered to enjoy cocktails and a good dinner at the lodge. The Maravu Boys provided musical entertainment, and welcomed Bud with a greeting of sharing Kava. Their harmonies were well hewn, full of island spirit and fun!

Sat., Nov. 12 Tavora Falls / Lavena & Southern Coast / Waitambu Marine Park
Today we spent a second day with staff from the Bouma project, this time concentrating on the newly established Waitabu Marine Park and the scenic southern coast in the Lavena Falls area. First we took a short walk into Tavoro Falls, where we caught close looks of a pair of Collared Kingfisher, the male Orange Dove, and -- quite laconic in the gardens around two small farms -- numerous Wattled Honeyeater. Papaya were ripe on the farmers’ small trees, and we were able to examine plants of taro and other produce that we had enjoyed during lunch the previous day.

Jamie was the first into the glorious pool below the falls, followed by Avghi, Molly, and then several others. The water was cool and refreshing, and swimming next to the powerful cascade was quite an experience! Jamie joined a group of local boys to jump and dive into the thundering waters.

Refreshed, we headed down the coast to the end of the road at Lavena. After an introduction at a visitor’s center the locals had established, we boarded two small boats to motor out to some of the wildest and most scenic parts of the coast. What beauty! Waterfalls, including some double and triple streams, just poured off the cliffs through incredibly lush vegetation. The surf was spraying high over the lava rocks lining the coast. A flock of Noddy (difficult to name the species at this distance) were very active feeding on a school of fish. After this lovely ride, our hosts wanted us to see one more magnificent waterfall – an endeavor that spawned a group joke about a “10-minute easy walk.” It was a pretty rough walk over slippery stones, but for those who made it a lovely sight, which Jamie captured adeptly with his camera.

Hungry for lunch, we headed over to Waitambu Village, which had prepared us a feast! We thought we’d have a quick bite and head for snorkeling, only to find half the village there dressed in colorful, beautiful clothing, along with a band and many curious children. It turned out that we were cause for this festive gathering, so we enjoyed a delicious lunch, took about an hour and half to snorkel, then returned for tea and cake and singing. They sang for us, we added a few more of our voices to “You are my Sunshine,” and it was grand all around.

The snorkeling was good in two sections of this now protected reef: one area of soft coral in stunning colors, where we found several living giant clams; and another area at the far edge of the reef, where a variety of huge corals provided safe haven for fish. The reef between these sections is recovering, thanks to the effort of this community to preserve it. Sala, who was in the water with us, showed Nancy an area of coral acting as a nursery for small, electric-blue fish. The guides were careful to make sure we saw things while remaining safe. The process of getting everyone back into the boat became a comical event; a few got a ride back in the billabong, a traditional boat.

Sun., Nov. 13 Des Voeux Peak / Maravu
Maravu staff woke early again today to provide us with a full breakfast before we headed out. We went to the opposite, more traveled side of the island to the town of Somosomo and beyond. Views of the island of Vanua Levu are tremendous here, getting more dramatic as our four-wheel-drive vehicles climbed up the road to the 1,195-meter Des Voeux Peak. Nancy spotted several HUGE orb-weaving spiders, prompting Doug to exclaim, “their webs look like mist nets!” As we drove the orchid-lined road, we left the plantations behind for increasingly dense forest.

Soon we parked by a gate, clambering out of the trucks to a cacophony of song! Giant Honeyeater, Golden Whistler, Island Thrush, and Barking Pigeon were the primary bandleaders, joined by the soft whistle of Fiji Shrikebill and the occasional squack of a Red Shining Parrot overhead. It was tremendously difficult to SEE anything in the dense vegetation, but the sounds were amazing. Doug let us try on earphones from his parabolic equipment -- “binoculars for your ears,” he called them. It was amazing to hear all the amplified sounds of the forest.

Wanting to see the top of the peak and the view, several members of the group headed up with Gail for a great hike and some excellent sightings of Scarlet Robin, a female Orange Dove, and Golden Whistler. The group below seemed obliged to pay the piper first, listening but not finding much of anything for quite some time. As some sun filtered through the maze of vegetation, our luck improved and we had superb looks at Fiji Shrikebill, Island Thrush, and several Fiji White-eyes -- the latter sitting like little lovebirds on a branch. Taking a side trail off the road, we were immediately surrounded by trees and tree ferns festooned with mosses, lycopodium, ferns, orchids, and other epiphytes. The Bird’s Nest Ferns were enormous, the climbing vines impressive as well.

Doug found a Metirocitis tree (a relative of Hawaii’s Ohia) that proved to be the mother lode. Lots of Wattled Honeyeaters were feeding there along with an occasional Streaked Fantail. Soon a vocal flock of Collared Lory arrived, and we each exclaimed with delight as we locked our binoculars on these day-glow red members of the Parrot family. Looking up into such striking color in the high tree canopy was grand! We then checked each of these blooming trees as we walked down the road, and in the lower elevations were rewarded with great looks at the larger Red Shining Parrots. Doug recorded the Silktail (including its call, which sounds like that of our flicker), the incessant and varied calls of the Golden Whistler, and three variations of Fiji Shrikebill. A real treat today was seeing Fiji’s national flower, Tagimaucia, which blooms from now through Christmas. The waxen, red-and-white flowers were a stunning sight among the dense green of the canopy.

As many were tired and we’d promised a free afternoon, two of the vehicles headed back, leaving one for those who wanted to keep birding. Susanne was dropped off at Wairiki Catholic Church, known for its spirited singing mass on Sundays. She took off her shoes, joined the locals on the woven mats on the floor, and thoroughly enjoyed the songs and friendly reception at this charismatic mass. The van with the more avid birders then picked her up, making a few stops on the way home to take photos of island scenes, huge Tongan Fruit Bats preening and chattering away on their roosts near a Shell Station, and Crested and Black-naped Terns rested on the yachting buoys.

Gail took several of our group to a super lunch at the Coconut Grove Restaurant, on the water about a mile from Maravu. Janet said it was the best Caesar salad she’d ever had, served island style with a fresh white-meat fish known as Waloo. Others enjoyed Mongolian barbecue around the hotel pool and a chance to relax. Five of us tried out the resort’s horses, riding up for a fantastic view from the hilltop (with all the recent rain the trails were too slick to venture farther). Doug and Phil took a walk up the hill in search of Many-colored Fruit Doves, which they heard but did not see. The mare at the resort with the month-old foal was a big hit, as was the yearling colt that frolicked free on the lawn. What enjoyable days here at this gracious resort, with its relaxed island hospitality.

Bert, Avghi, and Peg watched sunset from the beach, the pastel tones of blues and yellows deepening to more intense hues. Lovely coral sand, boats bobbing on their moorings, views of the mountains of Vanua Levu – no wonder Doug considers Taveuni – known as the Garden Isle -- one of the top five islands in the world!

Mon., Nov. 14 Taveuni to Kadavu
We woke at Maravu to pouring rain, so heavy that even the Fiji Goshawk gave up its intense chirping to take refuge! How lucky we had been to have two bright days for all our exploring. After a gracious breakfast at our long table overlooking the gardens and pool we headed to the airport. The staff sang us the Fijian farewell song and, at the airport, adorned us with Bouganvilla garlands. We were immensely pleased when Air Fiji announced we would fly direct to Kadavu, avoiding the expected two-hour layover in Suva. Our twin otter plane took us over turquoise reefs and a number of idyllic small islands, then over the 33 mile-long island of Kadavu, oldest and southernmost of the Fijian chain. We flew back into sunny skies that highlighted the jade and turquoise hues of the ocean

The staff of Matana Lodge was at the small Kadavu runway to greet us. Only after we’d walked into the lovely common room of the hotel -- decorated with local woods, grass mats, and tapa cloth -- did we realize that something was missing. After Peg and Rena spent hours on the phone they finally located our luggage – all 24 bags still sitting in Taveuni at 3:00 pm! The airline had planned to send us one day and the bags the next! We made enough fuss that they finally caved in and sent a plane over to get it, delivering it as we were enjoying cocktails and the sunset.

Good thing Judy had said, “put your swimsuit in your carry-on in case the luggage is late!” Many of the group fit in a good snorkel off the beach. We also had super looks at the endemic Kadavu Honeyeater and the striking Many-colored Fruit Dove, all in trees just off the porch. Late in the afternoon, both Collared Lory and the larger Crimson Shining Parrot made a pass through the canopy, calling loudly.

The plane was a big bird we were much relieved to see and hear. Reunited with our things, we could relax and enjoy the delicious barbecue dinner the lodge had prepared for us down by the beach. Doug was thrilled to have trifle as our dessert, and everyone commented on the tender and flavorful chicken, fish, and beef. Susanne went to sleep (or rather was kept awake) with the sound of Tongan Fruit Bats above her beachfront casita.

Tues., Nov. 15 Snorkeling, Diving and Birding on Kadavu
Peg paddled out in a sea kayak at dawn while Gail and Doug scouted in the native forest above our lodge. We then spent the morning in the water, astounded by the beauty of the coral gardens and the multitude of fish, giant clams, sea slugs, spotted rays, and more! Gail and Mary Louise went diving while the rest of us went snorkeling, traveling to an outer part of the reef by boat. The diverse corals formed complex domes and alleyways of stunning colors: mauve, electric blue, rich gold, velvet indigo…. We swam or drifted among the clumps, and swam to Manny’s Bommie, a spot where a wall of coral plummeted down 60 feet or more. Avghi commented on how much each section would change, particularly the fish associated with the various types of coral. Some soft coral wove between the elkhorn, staghorn, cabbage, brain, and other hard corals, giving a fluid grace to each scene.

After hours in this dream world our guides urged us to take a break and enjoy cookies and tea on the beach. We were free to walk the beach, an idyllic white shell and sand embayment with palm trees all around and views of other parts of the island. It was a postcard scene of the South Pacific if there ever was one! Two Crimson Shining Parrots flew overhead, and Kadavu Honeyeaters called constantly. En route home, we stopped for a second snorkel at Soft Coral Corner, a place less affected by the tides and full of fish. We sang Happy Birthday to Linda as we drove the last leg – what a great place to spend a special day!

On the porch of the lodge we lunched on our choice of fish sandwich or a cassava-sweet corn pie, served in portions large enough to be considered double! In the afternoon we reconvened to venture into the forest. Bob, the lodge owner, had arranged a truck for us to explore an interior road on the island, a trek that first required a trip by boat back to the airport. We piled into the backseats of the canvas-covered vehicle (which resembled a troop carrier), and drove off up a steep hill with some great views of Kadavu’s rugged coastline.

We stood for quite a while listening to the calls of several of this island’s endemic Whistling Doves. In the thick, multi-layer forest seeing anything but the bold Barking Pigeon proved challenging. Gingy got the whole group laughing when, looking at a wall of vegetation, she said, “now what color is this bird?”

“Green,” Peg answered earnestly.

We followed the Whistling Dove up a side road as it flew from tree to tree, then stood searching the branches of a nearby tree. Some caught a view of a pair as first the male and then the female flew; others had to be content with views of Golden Whistler and Slaty Monarch in the mixed flock below. Doug interpreted a number of calls and gave some folks a quick opportunity to see the Kadavu Fantail, but overall it was very quiet. Blue Moon and the monarch-like Danaus hamata butterflies were active in the sun, and we did a little botany to compare the drier Kadavu forests with the lusher rainforest on Taveuni.

Finally, a pair of Crimson Shining Parrots called out over the forest: we got good looks at them in flight and then in Peg’s scope for full on views. This crimson bird, very much like the King Parrot in Australia, surely saved the day! Cocktail hour by the sea was calling, and we left to meet our boat and return to the lodge as pink light started to paint the sky.

Wed., Nov. 16 Kadavu Reefs and Forests
Peg and Nancy ventured out for an early morning sea-kayak, seeing fish among the coral off the point and several Crested Terns in the sky. Bud worked on getting photos of the Multi-colored Fruit Doves that hung out in trees near the beach, and others enjoyed a relaxing morning before our breakfast. The Kadavu Honeyeater is a vocal bird, so there’s no sleeping in with so many around the beach! Doug recorded their curious night song at 3:30 am, then returned to bed! It was a particularly beautiful morning, with the near full moon still showing in the western sky.

We were off for another full morning of snorkeling at a well-known dive site called Coral Village. This offshore reef boasts an ancient, deep coral platform, and the fish and coral were absolutely spectacular. We saw dozens of species, including a montage of colorful Damselfish, a type of anemone fish with turquoise vertical stripes, over a dozen types of Butterflyfish, and more.

The Namalata Reef on the western side of Kadavu, proved to bean extraordinarily rich area of the South Pacific. Each species was more beautiful than the last, and at the reef’s edge the water was so clear we could see 60 feet or more down the amazing wall of coral. We saw huge parrotfish, and many black and white fish that Avghi described as having jail suits on. Janet said she had never seen anything like it, and most of us agreed!

The reef was just far enough below the surface that we could swim over the top, taking in the fabulous shapes and colors of corals and sponges. For more than an hour we were lost in time, just marveling at the beauty and biological complexity. Those who got back on the boat yelled for the rest of us to look up and see two Red-footed Boobies at very close range. Several Black-naped Terns were also feeding near the boat. In the water, Mary Louise and Gingy spotted Common Lionfish – wow! The Purple Basslets and the Barcheek Trevally (a silvery fish with a streamlined shape) were super abundant. Regal Angelfish and Moorish Idol were among the favorites, and seeing the Clown Anemone close up was a real treat.. Lots of gobies hung close to the coral, hiding from larger predatory fish. Wrasses, triggerfish, pipefish, pufferfish -- a whole exciting world down below.

Taking another break on the beach, Doug guided us through some tropical botany. He recognized several interesting plants from Hawaii, including the primitive acacia with pom-pom flowers and thick, coco plum-like leaves. All enjoyed tea and cookies and a chance to walk and look at shells on the beach. The second snorkel was in an area of soft coral, again sheltered from tidal currents. Peg and Nancy stayed on the beach to continue shelling – such fun to wander, and to take in the views of jade and aqua water against the clear horizon.

We returned to lunch at the lodge, where a Banded Iguana put on a good show in the dense shrubbery by the stairs – emerging from the leaves enough for good photos. While we were taking photos, an immature Fiji Goshawk flew in and nearly grabbed the lizard – phew! We had spectacular looks at this bird, first the talons and then on a nearby perch!

At 2:15 we walked down the beach to the village school, where the classes were ready to sing for us. These kids were so talented, just belting out superlative harmonies. Several individuals even sang solo with great confidence. We enjoyed chatting with the teachers and seeing the classroom with its animal posters, daily activity chart, and various alphabet lessons. Afterwards we walked back through the village, where people were going about their daily lives. Several women were weaving mats: we watched a few go about the intricate process of finishing the matt; another was just starting the process, taking spines out of the plants, boiling the leaves, then binding them in groups to dry out in the sun. An older woman joined the group, lying on the ground and resting her head on a coconut. Everyone was friendly and chatted easily. One woman proudly showed off her little one, who was more taken with a new little kitty than our company.

We had free time in the afternoon, so a few of us braved the tall hill behind the lodge to explore the native forest. We were rewarded with super looks at Kadavu Fantail, Scarlet Robin, and Fiji Shrikebill. We also saw the tawny-capped variety of the Fiji Bush Warbler; Doug has been studying the taxonomy of this variety to determine whether it merited the recommendation to split it off into a new species. Parrots and Lorys called overhead toward dusk, overlapping flight routes with the large Tongan Fruit Bats.

A band played for us by the beach bar, great island music with lively rhythm, well-developed harmonies, and a washtub for a bass! A lot of Fijian music includes jaunty falsetto tones – fun! We just had to get up and dance. Watching the sunset, enjoying some drinks and good music before a good dinner – such a life!

After dinner Doug gave a short talk about speciation, discussing how the varieties within species had developed on the islands. Gail and Avghi went out with lamps for a night snorkel. They returned to report that the anemones were open and feathery, inviting creatures into their lairs, and that a secretive creature with deep orange eyes stared out from a coral cluster. The water sparkled with bioluminescence – what a night to snorkel!

Thurs., Nov. 17 Kadavu / First Landing, Nadi
Early this morning we enjoyed coffee and early snacks by the sea, thanks to Bob and Rena. While there we had a show of seabirds: Lesser Frigatebirds, Red-footed Boobies, Brown Noddy, and Crested Terns. Several of us set out early to walk up to a grove of native forest in search of Kadavu’s endemic fantail. Not only were we successful, we found a pair on its nest! This was such a find that Doug brought others up later, so no one would miss the sighting. We also found a pair of Golden Whistlers -- which on this island have a white throat -- close by and fairly tame. Fiji Shrikebill gave us a sampling of their varied calls and were also remarkably easy to see. Peg found a Brown-tailed, Copper-striped Skink in the creek bottom.

Because we were flying today, several of the group spent the rest of the morning repacking, while Gail and Molly took off to snorkel out to the point. They found an array of soft corals of every color imaginable, decorated with hydroids and sponges. Molly told us in glowing detail about lettuce coral, algae of numerous hues, and swimming through waving sea grass. Peg took a group sea kayaking out to the point past the village – it’s great just to feel the waves and water and move so gracefully in these crafts.

As always, working with the local airlines was an adventure; we had seats on both Air Fiji and Sun Air to return to Nadi. We knew the afternoon would be devoted to travel – first by boat, then small plane, then taxi to our lodgings at First Landing. But it was a relief we could stay together and get our luggage all in one shift through Suva. First Landing seemed a bit touristy and modern compared to our remote lodges, but we enjoyed an elegant dinner by the pool. Bert and Avghi delighted in their fish selection, saying it was some of the best they’d ever had!

Fri., Nov. 18 Vita Levu Highlands
Few would care to repeat today’s trek up bumpy roads for hours and hours in the pouring rain. In hindsight, our guide had vastly underestimated the travel time in his enthusiasm to share with us his finding of the Long-legged Warbler, a bird that was thought to be extinct. So on we trekked, in our 4-WD vehicles, uncertain of our distance or destination.

Luckily, near the Monasavu Dam the work crew allowed us to use a warm room to have lunch, and Villi Masibalavu gave us an outstanding talk about Fiji’s Important Bird Area Project for Birdlife International. We sat on woven pandanis mats, shared the paltry lunch provided by our hotel, and then happily ventured outside as the sky cleared for a brief time. Hallelujah, we got great looks at Golden Dove, heard a Fan-tailed Cuckoo, had a veritable concert by two very visible Giant Forest Honeyeaters, and began to appreciate why we’d made the effort to get to this expansive wild area of Fiji!

On the way back down a few folks also got looks at Scarlet Robin, but all in all we were wet and bedraggled and starting to think fondly of returning home. It was not the last day Peg had envisioned for us all, but a lovely sunset and good dinner at First Landing helped make up for it.

Sat., Nov. 19 Garden of the Sleeping Giant / Hindu Temple / the Sugar Train / Homeward Bound
This was a leisurely morning, but sadly the rain just kept coming down! A few made a run up to another, closer highland area (Abaca Village), where Doug succeeded in recording several calls of the Black-throated Shrikebill.

Just after lunch (where did that pizza go, Phil and Linda?) we headed out to walk the trails of the Garden of the Sleeping Giants, actor Raymond Burr’s legacy in Fiji. This was one of Gail’s favorite spots on an earlier trip, and she was anxious to share it. It was spectacular and wet! After our first 20 minutes the heavens opened up again; for desert dwellers Peg, Jean, and Molly it was an intense infusion of water and green!

All were anxious to shop for handicrafts in Nadi, so we drove to Jack’s, which offers an overwhelming array of everything from mats to carvings. The rains quit in time for our retail therapy, and on the way back we enjoyed a chance to see the Hindu temple, to learn more from our guide about the Hindu and Indian customs of Fiji, and to stop to watch one of the sugar cane trains at work. We then had to find room for all our purchases in our luggage before dinner and our ride (where is the bus, Peg?) to the airport.

We got there a bit more than two hours in advance, only to find a huge, but thankfully efficient line from two international flights departing this evening. It was difficult to trade our island freedom for a cramped seat on the plane! But the long flights were well worth it to be part of a pioneering ecotourism venture to Fiji, where we discovered some of the friendliest people on earth, some of the richest reefs, some spectacular endemic birds and other creatures, and, as Jamie said, a lot of “green birds in green trees!”. It was a great first venture to Fiji for Naturalist Journeys – thanks to all who joined us!

Photo Credits: Boys dancing and Maravu Pool, Jamie Geary; Baby Fruit Bat,
Avghi Thunstrom; Banded Iguana, Bud Ferguson; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

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