France
September 2002 - Trip Report

Friday, Sept. 25 Evening flights to France
Saturday, Sept. 26 Toulouse to Les Eyzies

As our group came from many states and regions, we met in Toulouse mid-day for a fun lunch on the historic Town Square at the Brasserie Du Capoul.  Immediately we dove into French delicacies such as the Fois Gras and salad with gizzards, each arranged artistically with colors radiating like petals of a flower.  Several enjoyed the wine and ordered additional treats, and before long we met our driver Didier and got into our little GREEN bus.  We headed northwest of the city, sort of a gray day, but we were all excited to get to Les Eyzies and begin our exploration of the Dordogne and famous cave art region.  Helen had carefully chosen our route and we would visit our first caves in the morning.

We arrived late afternoon at our hotel; a wonderful place set on lush grounds against a bold cliff wall, with beautiful gardens and a swimming pool.  Nancy and Jo each braved a swim, brisk but invigorating.  Peg called out birds from the second story window.  A tree was well-placed and attracted Great and Blue Tit, Wren, Nuthatch, and in the little stream rushing behind, a European Dipper!  We walked through the little town to dinner, where Rob introduced us to Pastisse, a wonderful aperitif.  Walking back, Peg and several others got a good look at the Eagle Owl, first flying silhouetted against the amphitheater of natural rock, and then perching like a gargoyle on one of the ancient buildings.

Friday, Sept. 27 Rouffingnac and Font de Gaume
What an incredible day!  Marilyn, Jo and Peg did some early morning birding in the garden (thank you Leigh for letting Peg borrow that adapter for the coffeepot!). We met our guide for the cave region, Bart Vranken, just after breakfast, and before long he had us spellbound.  His knowledge of history, art and philosophy was so well integrated, and he so articulate, that the information came forth like a river, and all we had to do was to stay alert and process it all!  This was a man with a plan. Bart arranged for us to be the first tour of the day at Rouffingnac, so no crowds would mar our experience. The low ivy-hung entrance was modest and did not hint of the treasures within. After walking a few hundred yards into the cave and boarding a small electric tram, we descended gradually almost half a mile and the remarkable images began to appear.

We were all impressed, but as an artist, Leigh was beside herself, recognizing how talented these ancient artists were. Their use of three dimensions and the natural contours of the rock itself were marvelous. Some of the figures are huge, and the artists' eye for proportion had been keen. At the end we all got out to stand in a great gallery where figures of horses, aurochs and mastodons whirled above our heads in a marvelous collage.  Peg and Elaine spotted a small foal near one of the larger mares. It was hard to know whether to concentrate on the small detail or the overall grand effect of it all.  Amid all this magnificent art we also found the dried mud-hollow hibernation beds of now-extinct cave bears, many of them!  We went back to Hotel du Passeur for lunch, and continued on to Font de Gaume.  It was a beautiful fall day, and en route to the wooded hill that led to the cave entrance the birders found a Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Goldfinch and other songbirds. This cave was very different than the first, very intimate, with the panels of drawings in distinct areas of the limestone.  Cave visits here are limited in length to lessen the impact of humidity and pollution, and before we knew it our time was up.  Bart corralled us in a shaded, peaceful spot outside the entrance, and talked for the good part of an hour about the entire sequence of art and civilization that these discoveries let us interpret. People enjoyed time in the Font de Gaume gift shop, and scattered quickly on a free night to explore this little town which has many restaurants and stores, all within easy walking distance. Helen had a grand time renewing acquaintances among the shopkeepers, and we helped Jo celebrate a special evening, as this was her birthday.

Saturday, Sept. 28 Lascaux II, Chateau de Losse and Le Thot
Several of the group started the day with a bird walk through the village.  It was a brisk morning, so not too much was active, but we were delighted with the antics of several Robin, big flocks of varied species of Tits and Redwing. This morning's highlight was a visit to the incredible Lascaux II, a reproduction of one of the most magnificent caves of the region with some of the most extension artwork. We knew immediately why they consider this the "Sistine Chapel of Prehistory". The drawings here were very complex and placed in huge panels. Later in the day, we enjoyed a leisurely visit to one of the fine castles of the valley-the Chateau de Losse-with a guided tour through each room, where we could marvel at intricate tapestries, finely made furniture, and other treasures of a time gone by. From the expansive stone patio we got a glimpse at the brilliant flash of the Kingfisher, spotted by Mary Ellen, and of rich agricultural fields extending out in all directions.  A Green Woodpecker put on a good show near the castle. We had an incredible picnic lunch on the castle lawn, presented to us in giant baskets - delicious bread, pates, meats and cheeses and of course, lots of good French wine. We lounged a bit among wild tiny calendulas after filling ourselves, and then rallied forth to tour a conservation farm that has tried through the years to bring back the rootstock of several breeds of horses and cattle to preserve those genetics for the future. These are the animals of the cave paintings here in real life - with even a mock-up attempt at a bellowing mammoth. We drove back through the beautiful countryside, and Nancy and several others looked longingly at the canoes available for rent along the shore. With our exceptional weather that would have been a delight - next year!  All were free to wander the town again and to try another of the area's great local restaurants.

 

Sunday, Sept. 29 Sarlat and Domme / Rocamadour

The Medieval town of Sarlat was hauntingly quiet on a Sunday morning, allowing us to explore the myriad of tight corners and tiny streets in detail. Bart was along to interpret life in these times, but Laura, Prue and the other photographers soon found themselves distracted by the beauty of the architecture. We walked all through the streets and all too soon it was time to go. We traveled on a ways, and then walked up the hill to Domme. It was a pleasure to walk on this clear fall day as we entered another walled city - this one alive with restaurants and tourist shops. The view from the edge of the town was one of the best we would see - a mosaic of farm fields cut by the winding course of the Dordogne, one of the great rivers of the area. Somehow in our brief time in town Elisabeth managed to buy a fetching dress and Leigh some gorgeous cloth napkins. After a delicious and filling lunch at a small café on the Town Square, we began a scenic drive to Rocamadour, our destination this evening.  The countryside changed as we drove into drier territory with small shrubs hugging the limestone, and large canyons appearing beside the road.  Someone spotted our first huge Griffon Vulture, and then a LOT of cars, parked every which way to wedge alongside the steep canyon wall surprised us. Then, BALOONS aloft - it was the annual hot air balloon festival, and they were launching just outside our hotel door - what fun. As we unloaded suitcases they were passing almost at arm's length from our parking lot, roaring like dragons as their propane burners went on and off.  They'd then rise over the famous Castle of Rocamadour, which is dramatically built into the hillside.  Elisabeth and Sheila and several others relaxed on porch of a local café, taking it all in. Rob went exploring, and found a particular type of knife he had treasured years ago, much to his delight.

 

Monday, Sept. 30 Rocamadour / Pech Merle / San Cirq Lapopie

This morning we all explored the Castle at our leisure, several walking up the Grand Stairway to see the intimate chapel of the Black Virgin. Ed, Katie and Marilyn joined Peg to see the Stations of the Cross depicted along a walk that spirals up the cliff. Several toured the Castle itself, and all scouted around to pick up items for our picnic at Pech Merle.  En route we stopped at a small market and all had a grand time choosing fresh fruits, small cheeses, delicious crackers and more.  Brenda was so happy to find fresh and beautiful fruit. Peg and Rob were bummed to discover the local bakery closed on Monday, but what can one do but improvise!          

Pech Merle was a real treasure, unlike any of the other caves.  We had a local guide, a woman with a beautiful lilting French accent to her English, who obviously loved the prehistory of the caves. We saw in person the frieze of dappled ponies made nearly 20,000 years ago, as well as the footprint of a small boy from that time. The geology of the cave was equally intriguing - fascinating features of every texture and dimension.  We then drove through idyllic rural scenery, with one picturesque village after another, to reach St. Cirq Lapopie, which we walked about at dusk, a marvelous time to be perched above the river in one of the prettiest small villages of France.  To the tune of church bells we descended, and enjoyed a group dinner with lots of wine and cheer at a local farmhouse style restaurant. Here they brought us great tureens of homemade food - just delicious. And those unforgettable cheese plates as the final delight.

 

Tuesday, Oct. 1 St. Cirq Lapopie, Carcassone and the Camargue

Today was a long travel day, so we got an early start.  We had time to explore the Roman village of Carcassone en route, but after seeing the smaller and quaint villages of the Dordogne, this one felt crowded and "touristy" to us so we did not linger. We did, however, get in some quick and excellent shopping for small treasures of France.

As we descended to the Mediterranean the landscape became more arid and Peg insisted we stop to walk and put our feet in the ocean - the Mediterranean being a first for several on the trip.  Norty chuckled as she proved her naivete on finding a place to do that (not realizing how built up the coast was!) but we persevered, and enjoyed some fresh air and fine views from a hilltop. Our destination tonight was Arles, an older Roman city complete with coliseum and ancient theater, and it was fun to explore the streets after our delightful dinner on a Rhone riverboat. The city was a historical port of imperial Rome and its blend of faded elegance and frontier spirit where quite in contrast with the more ordered charm of the Dordogne. Shops held gear for local cowboys of the Camargue, and local goods rather than tourist fare. We hoped to see some of the art of Van Gogh, as he spent a good deal of time here. However, other museums had snatched up the treasures and we had to be content to see the houses and buildings he painted, and the rough and tumble Van Gogh café and saloon. Several elected the following day to stay back to explore the town and thoroughly enjoyed themselves.

Wednesday, Oct. 2 and Thursday, Oct. 3 The Camargue
We were here in the Camargue to enjoy nature in this vast wetland preserve. Our local guide Christophe led us on an extensive walk through the wetlands, where we birded from hides (observation blinds) and found a good array of ducks and several species of waders, including the elegant Avocet. We had wonderful looks at Red Kites, and Sheila and others delighted in seeing the bold, black and white Lapwings. The picnic lunch of this adventure was to be one of the most memorable of our stay in France. We were hungry after a good walk, and walked up the steps of a bird observation platform to find the most beautiful spread before us. Vegetables piled high in a basket to cut up for salad.  Meats and cheeses and breads, fantastic olives and spicy spreads, pates - oh my - we foundered for the last part of that walk!  All this, and White Storks flying overhead. Little did we know it would be rivaled the next day by a stupendous lunch at a popular local spot known as Chez Bob.  Walking into Chez Bob, you knew you'd be there for quite some time, and happily so.  The table was laden with pots of fois gras, wonderful goat cheese, salad ingredients to cut as you choose, a grand choice of entrees. This was Norty and Ed's kind of birding trip now!  Our merry voices got louder and louder as the meal progressed as we filled ourselves to the maximum. Mary Ellen declared it to be a true country meal. There were great posters hung from the ceilings, mostly of the famous bulls and bullfighters of the Camargue. Later, we visited the salt works, David shaking his head "they just go on and on", and Brenda, Jo and Katie worked on identification of gulls and waders at the vast Delta of the Rhone. The hospitality of the delightful couple that ran our hotel was much enjoyed.

 

Friday, Oct. 4 Les Beaux / the Crau / Millau

This morning we packed up, Didier navigating the narrow streets around the Port du Camarge with style. We headed up the Alpilles Mountains to the small town of Les Baux, a hilltop Roman ruin built out of limestone which has weathered to match the color of the rugged cliffs surrounding it, a magical setting if you ever saw one. The landscape was now very Mediterranean, with stunted herbs growing from cracks in the limestone. The familiar culinary scents of rosemary and oregano rising from the plants under our feet reminded us of our garden herbs' origins. Gray-green olive orchards decorated the hillsides in all directions. Our lunch restaurant was perched right at the top of the cliffs - a grand location and another excellent meal - David thought one of the best we'd had. While some spent much of the morning exploring Les Baux, Helen, Peg and several others went with Christophe to explore one of France's most limited and unique habitats - the steppe desert of the Crau.  We walked in on a stony, almost pavement like trail to an old sheepherder's barn, set up now as a birding hide.  Helen called out "Bustards" and there they were - a flock of Little Bustard that we had hoped to see. Sheila commented on how good it felt to walk in such open country. After lunch in Les Baux, Leigh worked on a portrait of Norty, not knowing how beautiful she looked with her pretty hair and colorful dress as she concentrated on the painting. Several others walked on find the Blue Rock Thrush and Subalpine Warbler. We then headed on to Millau, our base for exploring the Gorges du Tarn. We took a quick detour to the Pont du Gard, a great suggestion by Nancy, much appreciated by Laura, Marilyn and others who had not seen such a wonder before. We stopped en route at a France style truck stop - amazingly clean and modern. Peg and Brenda did a quick walk for exercise, and then we were back on the highway and to Millau just at dark. Here we were met by a real Madame, and wondered a bit if we were truly at the right place!  David and Leigh set up their own dinner in the hotel patio, and Peg, Liz, Sheila and several others lingered long enough to make it a fine evening of shared food and wine.  Ed and Katie found a great restaurant in the nearby town centers and really enjoyed themselves discovering puffed pastry and Roquefort and more. 

 

Saturday, Oct. 5 Gorges du Tarn / Massif Central

This was to be a highlight day for many - such a wild and beautiful part of France, and such a contrast to all our other discoveries. Tucked between the civilized fields of Provence and the disciplined vineyards of the Bordeaux region is the high, wild Massif Central, a land of high pine-clad plateau, deep gorges, clear tumbling rivers with few signs of man other than rustic stone farm dwellings. This is the home of Roquefort cheese, produced from the milk of carefully tended flocks of sheep. It's also the site of the reintroduction program for the Griffon Vulture, a condor-like bird once extirpated and now fully recovered.

We were met by a local biologist and guide who proved to be delightful and extremely knowledgeable, Peyo D'Andurain.  We drove along a wooded canyon, stopping in the autumn shadows to spot our first Griffon Vultures.  We got the scope on several roosting groups and all got good, long looks. We saw over twenty of these rare birds at this first stop.  Later we would walk along part of the gorge at the rim, where they would fly almost eye to eye with us, looking like Dr. Seuss birds with bare heads and thick neck ruffs.

Another thrill, thanks to Jo's persistence, was to find a Dipper in plain site, bobbing and feeding near a small spillway of the river. Marilyn loved seeing it through Helen's scope - what a thrill. Peyo discussed the reintroduction efforts with the vultures and the challenges they faced with future conservation. We visited a new visitor center, with really excellent displays, films and a deck full of scopes for viewing. Mary Ellen soaked up the sun and beauty, and Jo was obviously thrilled to see such dynamic birds of prey, particularly when the Black (Monk) Vultures joined in to soar above us. Nancy, who had traveled extensively in France, kept saying "You could use some more time here" - and we certainly agreed. We had two outstanding meals this day - so much so that they nearly ran together and caused much groaning (but not much abstinence).  The first was just a treat - something Peyo arranged at a hilltop bed and breakfast run by a friend, a home that he had helped build earlier when he moved to this region. The view was incredible - the river, the cliffs, the valley and fields lingering on and on.  Everything we feasted on was home grown or produced very near by: huge slabs of crusty dark peasant bread, plates of cheese and meat, fresh salad with walnuts and Roquefort and more walnuts, clusters of rich ripe Muscat grapes, homemade wine and special sweets. 

We birded and walked for a break in between, and enjoyed a great farewell dinner, a rich lamb stew at a local mountain inn.  Peyo had found just the best for us - the perfect ending to our adventure in France!

 

Sunday, Oct. 6 Return to Toulouse, flights home

 

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