Galapagos
January 2 – 12, 2008 - Trip Report
With notes from mainland Ecuador

Wed., Jan. 2 Arrival in Galapagos / Bacchus Beach
Today our group was complete, and we started our long-awaited journey to the Galapagos! A 6:30 morning pick up dampened our enthusiasm a bit, but we rallied from our post New Year’s Eve weariness and boarded the plane for the “enchanted isles”. The plane landed briefly in Guayaquil, where it was misty and rainy, but as we approached the islands the skies cleared and we marveled at our aerial view of Santa Cruz Island, with its skirt of arid vegetation spread over miles of lava. We were greeted by Lava Lizards and a Land Iguana, the North Seymour subspecies recently reintroduced to Baltra. Cate found our first Darwin Finch in one of the entry way cacti; soon we had spotted both Large and Medium Ground Finches picking at crumbs near the airport café. Our naturalist Karla greeted us with a big smile, and soon we were boarding the New Daphne, learning our way about the ship, and dining on fresh fish served with a light tomato/onion sauce over pasta – yum! Sea lions barked as we relaxed in the sun on the top deck, motoring a short way over to Bacchus Beach with Magnificent Frigatebird floating with ease over our heads. Blue-footed Booby and Brown Noddy were feeding frenetically; occasional Brown Pelicans joined in the fray. Our first outing was to a gorgeous white sand beach, broken by dark lava and home to red, yellow and turquoise Sally Lightfoot Crabs. The first Marine Iguana was a big hit; we found several – some swimming, some feeding and others resting, a few sparring and spitting to command their space. Lava (Striated) Heron and Great Blue Heron both hunted intently from the rocks. In a small lagoon behind the berm of the sand beach we found one juvenile Galapagos Flamingo, a pale youngster who displayed all the mechanisms of flamingo filter feeding. We could watch the water spray as it used its ‘bird baleen’ to filter feed in the brackish waters. White-cheeked Pintail, Semi-palmated Sandpiper and Whimbrel were also at the lagoon, but two beautiful Yellow Warblers stole the show, walking around in red-colored Susuvium plants and showing off their rusty crowns. We walked back to the beach, enjoying each other’s company amid the soft light of a now-cloudy sky – a perfect first day. Back on the ship, we particularly relished sitting on deck, with the breeze blowing as the sun went down. We watched groceries being unloaded; wonderful food to keep us happy. Karla briefed us for the next day and we met the captain and crew at a welcome dinner.

Thurs., Jan. 3 South Plaza Island / Santa Fe
Many of us were up for sunrise, enjoying a hot cup of coffee on the upper deck as we moved into our anchorage near South Plaza Island. There was a good show of seabirds with abundant Galapagos (formerly Audubon’s) Shearwater, Nazca and Blue-footed Booby and both Wedge-rumped and Band-rumped Storm Petrels. Several came in close to the boat, providing us excellent observations. As we neared our destination, the textures of volcanic sediments were varied and impressive, but the forest of Opuntia cactus really caught our eye. The Galapagos Sea Lions were abundant and very vocal; we watched impressive beach masters and females with small pups. Just at the top of the landing for our walk on South Plaza, we discovered a pair of Swallow-tailed Gull on a nest, well hidden behind a red Susuvium plant. Karla led us at a leisurely pace, describing the habits of sea lions, naming the various plants and, at the far cliffs, showing us seabirds in motion. There were hundreds of Galapagos Shearwater flying circles below us here, and we had great looks at the really blue feet of comical Blue-footed Boobies. Several Swallow-tailed Gull had fully grown but still begging young. Completing our loop, several spotted our first Common Cactus Finch, and two very bright Yellow Warblers provided great photo opportunities while feeding on the red Susuvium. The scenery was as splendid as the wildlife; views back to our boat and out to sea were incredibly picturesque. We returned to the ship by 10:00 AM and the captain pulled the anchor and motored away – about a two hour trip to Santa Fe gave everyone a chance to relax, take in some sun, work on their journals or photos, or just take a nap! After lunch, we had a chance to snorkel; Karl and Drew took lots of underwater photos while the rest of us just admired the massive schools of Yellow-tailed Mullet, Parrotfish, King Angelfish and Mexican Hogfish. We saw large numbers of a few species rather than many different species today. Highlights included seeing a Stingray, several Sea Snakes and, in a quiet area, four Green Sea Turtles. Those not snorkeling took a great ride in the dingy and were able to observe Galapagos Hawk, Green Sea Turtle and Manta Ray.

We also enjoyed a second walk, a loop trail through the mature cactus forests, where we found more Land Iguana, this one a different species from that seen in the morning. There were a lot of them, and with ample cloud cover they were out and active, at one time challenging a Marine Iguana, all with nodding heads to show territory and dominance. One really large and colorful Land Iguana stole the show, what a brute! Against the red Susuvium plant mats it was quite handsome. We continued past the forest into a heavily vegetated area, and found an incredibly tame pair of Galapagos Flycatcher – the little dears practically landed on our shoes as they fed on small insects. A Warbler Finch came in, and at the trail’s end we had fine views of a Galapagos Hawk perched above a group of very young sea lions that played like puppies in the waves. We relaxed on the beach with a couple dozen sea lions, and then made our way back to the ship, where snacks were waiting. Before dinner Karla gave a talk on the Reef Fish of the Galapagos and a very nice presentation on the geology. After dinner most were tired, having had a lovely but full day; we retreated to our cabins as the seas picked up on our way to Espanola Island, a trip of about five hours.

Fri., Jan. 4 Espanola Island: Punta Suarez / Gardner’s Bay
We motored for much of the night, making the five hour crossing to the most southern island of the archipelago, Hood (also known as Espanola). We anchored before dawn, and again several of us were up on deck to watch the sun rise in a painted cloud sky. We drank coffee and tea on the top deck, listening to the barking resonance of Galapagos Sea Lions and watching Dark-rumped and Galapagos (Wedge-tailed) Storm Petrels feed and fly. There were an unexpected number of boats here, but it did not affect our rather outstanding walk on Hood. We disembarked on a concrete ramp, stepping carefully between resting sea lions and Christmas-colored (red and green) Marine Iguana. In our usual style, with so much to see, photograph and admire, it took twenty minutes just to clear the first beach! We soon found ourselves in the midst of a breeding colony of Blue-footed Boobies. Couples were engrossed in courtship and just ignored us; we saw them raising their impossibly blue feet, sky-pointing with bills to the sky and thrusting their wings over their heads to dramatize the males’ beady yellow eyes. They whistled, and we soon began to recognize male calls from female. Karla was patient as we lost all track of time, urging us along to the next amazing site – the albatross runway. Most of the Waved Albatross had left the island by now; on the runway, we found Galapagos Dove and the colorful subspecies of Hood’s Lava Lizards. Near the edge of the sea we found one very large Waved Albatross fledgling, not quite ready to fly but healthy and biding its time, admired by all of the groups visiting. It was curious, following every move of a Lava Lizard, and picking up sticks and objects in its chosen site. When at last it flew we knew that from this cliff there is no land shy of Antarctica; the albatross is truly a bird of the sea! There were two more, a yearling and an adult, further along, but before reaching them, we admired several Nazca (formerly Masked) Booby, with tiny chicks just out of their eggs. With a background of turquoise water, vibrant sea spray and huge waves, the whole sight was magical. Blue-footed Booby had both full grown and newly hatched chicks. In every direction there was something to see – a Galapagos Hawk perched on the rocks, Small Ground Finch feeding nearly at our feet, and a Warbler Finch singing in the shrubs. We wandered at a timeless gait, filling every minute of the morning.

Back on the ship, before lunch, Karl spotted a pod of Bottlenose Dolphin near another ship, and we quickly alerted everyone as our ship veered towards them. They came to us and had a grand time playing at our bow, swimming just at the edge of the boat at top speed and occasionally leaping out of the water with ease. We whooped and whistled to encourage them, and were amazed to see one small baby joining the fun. All of us leaned over the rail; a few caught fine photos of their athletic display. We then anchored off Garnder Island, hoping to snorkel against the rock walls. Though we suited up and braved the cold waters, it turned out to be too risky with high waves, and we had to quit. The captain took us for an exciting panga ride, showing off the power of waves. We then spent the afternoon walking the white sand beach of Gardner Bay, finding piles of Galapagos Sea Lion, some basking Green Turtles and a new species for the trip, American Oystercatcher. As a Galapagos Hawk flew over, this black and white dynamo with the red beak took to the air to chase it – no oystercatcher chicks for dinner today! It was a very relaxing afternoon, and as always we were welcomed back to the ship with a snack – getting hungry aboard the New Daphne was not going to happen!

Sat., Jan. 5 Floreana Island: Post Office Bay / Devil’s Crown / Cormorant Point
We traveled some five hours during the night to reach Floreana, and woke at dawn to a sky dotted with high clouds and a sea as calm as glass. Elliot’s and Dark-rumped Storm Petrel danced around the boat, and Green Sea Turtles in good number kept surfacing near us as we drank our first cup of coffee, sipping in the warmth and the scenery. This morning was more about history than wildlife, but Karla as always made it fun. Her laugh was our beacon now; we could keep up with the group just hearing it ring. She described the Baroness of Floreana in detail, and spoke about the early Norwegians and the air of mystery surrounding disappearing residents and murders on this early outpost. We got back on the boat and changed to go snorkeling, though a few chickened out when we saw the captain putting on a wet suit to protect himself from cold and jellyfish. Silly us, it turned out there were no jellyfish, and the six or so who snorkeled returned just radiant, having seen White-tipped Reef Shark, Hieroglyphic ___ Fish, Bumphead Parrotfish, a bright yellow Pufferfish and more. Three stayed behind to swim in the cool refreshing waters off the boat, and the rest of us went to Devil’s Crown for a dingy ride, taking in the guano cliffs decorated with Blue-footed and Nazca Boobies, Brown Noddy and Brown Pelican. There were dozens of Galapagos Shearwater and they obliged those photographing by sitting in good number on the water. The morning passed quickly and all too soon we were back aboard to eat lunch before disembarking at Cormorant Point for an afternoon walk.

The walk centered around an extensive brackish lagoon, where Renata and Karen counted nineteen Caribbean Flamingos. Many of them were bright adults, and we had a chance to see them feeding and, after climbing to a viewpoint, to see their tracks decorating the muddy bottom of the lagoon. With a bit of searching we found Black-necked Stilt, Spotted Sandpiper and Wandering Tattler. Galapagos Mockingbirds kept up a raucous chorus as we crossed over an open sand dune. Here we found a very tame pair of Galapagos Flycatcher which once again seemed to pose for our inspection. The bay on the other side of this pass was remarkably beautiful, a deep jade green, with surf pounding on a white sand beach shore. There were tiers of lava rock, in front of which we spotted numerous Stingrays; thankfully, Karla had warned us to keep to the dry sand part of the beach. Green Sea Turtle were there in good number, and we enjoyed some time to relax and take in the beauty.

Around 2:30 we were on our way for a four-hour trip up to Santa Cruz. Many of us stayed on deck, hoping for signs of whales, which did not appear. However, we did see a Galapagos Petrel and an adult Wandering Albatross, along with small flocks of Red-necked Phalarope. Time passed quickly, and by dusk, we pulled in to the main harbor of Puerto Ayora, where dozens of boats were anchored off shore. After yet another delicious dinner, and a cake in honor of Greg’s birthday, we opted to go ashore and explore the town a bit, check email at the internet café and toast the birthday at the Bongo Bar. Drew stayed out to enjoy the local ‘scenery’; a good time was had by all. We had fun using the water taxis and enjoying the little town.

Sun., Jan. 6 Santa Cruz Island: Darwin Research Station / Highlands: Twin Craters, Lava Tube and Rancho Primicias Tortoise Reserve
We slept in this morning, with breakfast served at 7:30; it was different to watch the comings and goings of a busy harbor instead of those of seabirds on a wild horizon, but the boat lights in early am were cheery, and we had hopes of a very good day.

We took taxis to the Darwin Station as we planned to stroll back through the town. At the entrance we checked out the floral displays that showed us plants of the various island life zones. We went to the shade house where native plants are being cultivated to encourage islanders to grow them. Then we entered a loop trail where excellent displays depicted the work of decades to understand the biodiversity of Galapagos Giant Tortoises, and to restore several subspecies to their native islands. Part of this is fighting the battle of non-native goats, rats and other threats to tortoise survival. We enjoyed seeing small two year old tortoises, and the various subspecies as five years olds that soon would be released. We saw the legendary Diego, super breeder of this reptilian world. And poor Lonesome George, who could take a few lessons from Diego. The end of our trail led to a shop and some delicious coconut ice cream, after which we all scattered to explore town, do some shopping, check email and just sightsee. We had lunch back on the ship before venturing out about 2:00 PM to board a small bus that would take us up to the highlands. We traveled through the transition zone, into the Scalacia Zone, where we parked to take a hike into Los Gemalsos (Twin Craters). These are spectacular collapsed structures, showing vertical cliffs of lava layers, with a lush floor and cap of vegetation. Karen, Renata and the plant admirers were in their glory – so many plants were in bloom, or just held fascination in leaf shape or growth form. Trees were festooned with bromeliads, and amongst these we found our first Woodpecker Finches. It was great to watch them slowly and deliberately probe for insects by picking through dead leaves. While we did not observe them using tools, we did observe one making a nest, flying in with long strips of vine. It uttered some wild calls, and in general put on quite a show. With some effort we found Vegetarian Finch, and a good number of Large Tree Finch, one Warbler Finch and a number of the various sized Ground Finches. Sun broke through the clouds as we approached the end of the trail and the Fern Tree. It was a lovely day in the highlands, full of discoveries and fun. We were due to sail at 9:30 PM; several of us waited on deck to observe as we left the harbor. The Captain and crew came back aboard and off we went, out to wild Galapagos!

Mon., Jan. 7 Genovesa Island (Tower)
We had an eight-hour overnight sail, crossing open ocean with large swells, but little chop – a relatively easy passage. Just at dawn the captain steered our vessel into the dramatic crater of this oval-shaped island. Here we anchored close to a wall displaying distinct lava layers and covered with seabirds resting and nesting. Galapagos Shearwater veered around us on open wings, loud rattle calls of Red-billed Tropicbird usually signaled that Magnificent and Great Frigatebird were harassing it for a hopeful meal. After breakfast we took a short dingy ride over to Prince Philips steps, a steep but short avenue to cross to top the cliff. From there we entered a nesting area for both frigatebirds and many Red-footed Booby. It was wonderful to see them so close, nesting in the small trees, often at eye level less than five or six feet away. Nazca Booby were right on the trail, forcing us to step around them as they whistled and bowed in courtship, presenting mates with sticks, feathers or any movable object that would stir a response. There were chicks of every age, indicating a year of abundant food not far from the island. As with all seabirds it was boom or bust; we witnessed several strong chicks with barely any feathers, already agile enough to raise up and beg for food. On the far side of the island we witnessed a flock of Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels flying incessantly around the sea cliffs, scattering above the horizon like a cloud. Soon we watched their main predator, the Short-eared Owl, flying into their midst and grabbing one with ease. It lit quite close to us and thrashed its rather large prey around, then flew off to a more secretive perch to eat it. We saw two owls; likely there were several more. Peg spotted a whale spouting and drew others into the view, but even with repeated sightings we could not determine the species. Whales, owls, seabirds – what a day! We also saw several clumps of the endemic Lava Cactus and three of the island’s four species of finches – Large Ground Finch, Sharp-beaked Ground Finch and Warbler Finch.

We returned to the ship for lunch, and several of us tried the sea kayaks. From this close up vantage point we observed two Black (Pacific Green) Sea Turtles mating, and had three species of booby diving around us. It was wonderful to explore so close to the water. At 2:30 we all headed towards the beach, this time in full hot sun, the first really HOT day of our voyage. We did a loop walk, and almost at the start found one of our target species – the Large Cactus Finch, feeding on flowers of the large, tree-like Opuntia cactus. Swallowtail Gull nest on this island and we found half grown and almost adult chicks, beautiful in their own way. Some of the gull couples were still courting; time and time again they went through the motions oblivious to us, often right at our feet! We walked along a thick road of Red Mangrove, where Red-footed Boobies decorated the limbs like Christmas ornaments. Several had large fluffy chicks; we walked carefully so as not to brush branches and send the precious contents reeling. At the end of the path we inspected a nesting area for frigatebirds. By now we could easily tell the two species apart, Magnificent with their brilliant white heads, Great capped with rust colored plumage. There were many almost fledged birds, and some tried short flights, returning to preen and stretch their wings. We waded through a deep pool on the way back to the beach, and from this vantage point could pick out a good number of shorebirds – Wandering Tattler, Whimbrel, Ruddy Turnstone, and a lone Black-bellied Plover. We lingered with so much to see, and the sun ducked under a cloud, making it a bit cool for snorkeling. Luckily, as we boarded the zodiac to return to the ship, sea creatures came to us; first a large Galapagos Shark, andthen several Spotted Eagle Ray, so even those who had not snorkeled had a chance to see them.

Dinner was fun, with everyone in the mood to visit. The crew had to kick us out of the dining area to get it cleaned up before our 8:30 sailing time. Then engines on and off we went.

Tue., Jan. 8 James (Santiago) Island: Puerto Egas and Bartoleme
We had a full night of travel back to Santiago, but all agreed it was worth it to see Tower, for many the most intriguing island of the trip. We woke up to light fog in a bay rimmed by lava cliffs and domed cinder cones. This was an island with relief, mountains coated with sparse plants, edged by the stark white stalks of dry season, leafless Palo Santo trees. The colors in this light were flat; gray, maroon, black, and midnight blue in the water. And into the dark water we had diving boobies, some of the best of the trip. Bill grabbed his camera and tried to shoot as the Blue-footed Boobies plunged one right after the other into the sea; not an easy feat to capture! Sea Lions barked, and soon we heard the motors of other boats’ pangas departing. Time to go ashore!

We had a great walk across an island trail, while the crew went ashore to play soccer, this being one of the islands with some abandoned buildings from an earlier island industry. Our walk was over to the west coast, where a long expanse of mossy covered rock held fascination. We enjoyed watching Marine Iguana feeding, some of them quite large. They would bob their heads vigorously when wanting to control space or move among less dominant individuals. If two challenged each other one would eventually spit salt, something they’d do so quickly it would make you jump, so likely was quite effective on an opponent. Often a brightly colored Yellow Warbler would come into view as we watched the iguanas. They were quite adept at catching small flies or other insects hatching off the green substrate. They seemed to glow against the dark colors, the males sporting bright red caps and dazzling, rust colored frontal stripes. As Greg said, whoever thought they would come to Galapagos to watch Yellow Warblers, so common elsewhere, but here they seemed like bright jewels in a place with so little color. We found a good array of shorebirds, watching Semi-palmated Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Whimbrel and Wandering Tattlers. In the grottoes, a section of beach rock eroded to hold a natural bridge perched over a long sea channel, we found Galapagos Fur Sea Lion and a large Black (Green) Sea Turtle, both giving us a great chance to observe and photograph. One of the highlights was time to watch three rambunctious young sea lions, parked in a place of shallow pools to await their mothers gone to sea to feed. They romped with toys, tossing pencil sea urchins into the air, chasing, rolling, biting and otherwise frolicking with abandon before all our eyes. Karla was an ideal guide for us as we rarely felt rushed, and most times were willing to go when we heard her voice: “Okay, time to go….”

Several of the group snorkeled when we returned to the beach and Karl described the water as clear with abundant fish; so nice to encounter snorkeling right from the shore. Then it was back aboard and a sail around the island to get to Bartolome and its signature feature – Pinnacle Rock.

Snorkelers again had a great afternoon, plunging into the cold but productive water. Drew led out, eager to be near Galapagos Penguins, which were hauled up on the right side of the bay. What fun! Several of our group leaped into the water and swam with them, just a few feet away. Those on the beach enjoyed watching the penguins swim, surfacing to float like ducks, though lower in the water. We all enjoyed a panga ride to get very close looks at a group of them. They stared out with little curiosity, both adults and young of the year, just standing, likely digesting, hanging out in Galapagos. The end of our day held a challenging hike up three-hundred and some stairs, to top out at a lighthouse with a view of Pinnacle Rock from above, and the myriad islands of the Galapagos. It was a great thrill to know we had been on many of them and now knew part of their magic. By now we were all very attached to these barren but beautiful Magic Islands. The crew put on a super final dinner for us and we had time to recount a few of our highlights.

Wed., Jan. 9 North Seymour Island / Flight to Quito
This morning we left the ship just at dawn for a great last walk on North Seymour Island, known for its endemic subspecies of Land Iguana. Baby Galapagos Sea Lion blocked our path from the landing; we waited patiently, snapping last photos of their adorable faces. Swallow-tailed Gull called urgently as Magnificent Frigatebird flew into the nesting area, always opportunists for the slightest lapse of parenting. We walked with a view of high surf off a corner of the island, with a grand view of Daphne Major, the island made famous by the research of Rosemary and Peter Grant. Marine Iguana posed on basalt boulders with surf and jade colored water behind, but soon our attentions were pulled by whistles now familiar to us – courting Blue-footed Boobies. The sight tugged at Karen’s heart once more as the centuries’ old ritual began. Lift one foot, lift the other, point beak to the sky and fan out your wings….. Bill had the dance down by now; we expect once home he’ll be buying blue slippers so Judy beware….

We made a loop trail, and were able to see some male Magnificent Frigatebirds with their red pouches somewhat inflated, this being the end of their long breeding season. We came back to the ship for breakfast, and then watched as our bags were loaded for the trip to the airport. We left with plenty of time for a shopping frenzy in the T-shirt and tourist shops located there, but soon were aloft and bound for Quito. Our rooms back at the Sebastian seemed palatial – and everyone enjoyed hot showers taken on a stable platform! The evening was free; some of us headed over to a lovely restaurant in an old mansion to feast on seafood, while others enjoyed an Argentine steakhouse.

Thurs., Jan. 10 Bella Vista Cloud Forest / Free Evening in Quito
This morning, after a buffet breakfast at the hotel, we left to explore the cloud forests of Bella Vista, a private reserve northwest of Quito. It took some time to get out of the city, but soon after passing the Equator Monument, we were on our way into some lovely rural areas. At the turnoff to Bella Vista, we stopped first at Alombe, a small lodge and reserve where the owners greeted us warmly, and served us fresh lemonade as we gawked at the feeders. What an array of beauty! Hummingbirds abound here, some of the more common being Rufous-tailed, Western and Andean Emeralds, Green-crowned Woodnymph and both Green-crowned and Fawn-breasted Brilliants. The prizewinner, though, had to be the tiny Booted Racket-tail, with its incredible tennis racket shaped tail and endless energy. We sat on a shaded porch as activity continued at a frenzied pace. The color and beauty of the birds was mirrored in the garden flowers. Soon Peg called the group over to see a dazzling pair of Lemon-rumped Tanagers. We also found some great moths and butterflies, a Black Phoebe, and, for Deb and Caitlin, a Pacific Hornero. We left here and continued uphill towards Bella Vista, stopping to walk several times along the road in search of species. It was fairly quiet, but in time here and along the trails we found some beauties – Pearled Treerunner, Masked Trogon and Turquoise Jay were some of the favorites. Our arrival at Bella Vista gave us a chance at yet another cast of characters, this time adding Buff-tailed Coronet, Gorgeted Sunangel, Purple-bibbed Whitetip and the diminutive Speckled Hummingbird to our hummingbird list. Just before lunch a few of the group spied a Sickle-winged Guan, and nearly all of us got great views of Tricolored Brush Finch and Russet-crowned Warbler. Lunch was lovely, a choice of chicken or trout, followed by a luscious mousse for dessert. Time passed quickly and we decided to try for one last walk. Just as we left the bus, the skies opened up, first a light then heavier rain. Amidst this, we found an AMAZING mixed flock, with an estimate of 80-100 birds in it; a fast moving canopy flock backlit by gray sky on top of our challenge with the rain. We pulled out views of Crimson-mantled and Powerful Woodpeckers, and some of the distinct species such as Smoke-colored Pewee, Cinnamon Flycatcher and, with its bright white cheeks, Streaked Tuftedcheek. All in all it was frustrating for the number we could not identify due to conditions, but as a spectacle it was quite a flock to witness. On our way back to Quito, we made a quick stop at the Equator Monument before arriving back about 7:00 PM. Several of us enjoyed a simple dinner of pizza across the street, while others relaxed at the hotel.

Fri., Jan. 11 Antisanna National Park / Quito
This was a very special last day, an all day trip into the higher elevations of the Andes. Antisanna is a remote National Park with an impressive road winding up to it through a glacially carved valley. It is one of the older volcanoes of the Andes, and its rock is prized for building stone. We passed a large quarry before the Park entrance and then followed the valley up to where it broke out into a lush, open expanse of Paramo. We stopped to scope Black-winged Ground Dove and Verna, a keen spotter, quickly picked out an Aplomado Falcon, which cooperated brilliantly in perching for us so we could enjoy scope views. Carunculated Caracara thrilled us at first glance, then even when we had fifty or more in view still held our attention. Our first stop was at a bridge, where we found the Chimborazo (‘flower of the Andes’) shrubs in bloom, along with a lot of ground-hugging flowers. Xavier quickly spied a pair of Ecuadorian Hillstar, an endemic bird we had really hoped to find. They put on a great show, even posing for photos, and then feeding a large begging chick at very close range – wow! We then found Bar-winged and Stout-billed Cincloides, a Brown-backed Chat Tyrant and a Black-billed Shrike Tyrant a little farther along, all in one area that was also filled with a grand array of flowers. Peg could see the clouds gathering, and wishing to see the beauty of Antisanna itself, urged us on. Soon, rounding a corner, there it was, several thousand feet above us, a twin peaked, snow-capped volcano in all its glory. We got out for photos, and soon were lost to the flowers – there were so many blooming. Several turned out to be gentians, from large open-cup purple ones to complex, tubular yellow ones. Our flower fans were soon on their bellies, while others scanned through abundant Andean Gull and tried to find a singing Many-striped Canestero. We likely had 70-80 Carunculated Caracara at this point and they appeared to be feeding on large insects in the mounds of tussock grass. Clouds and blue sky danced around the peaks – what a glorious day. We continued on to a sizable lake, where Xavier was able to find us Yellow-billed Pintail, Andean and Blue-winged Teal, a Greater Yellowlegs, Andean Coot and a pair of Silvery Grebe. Then Karl yelled “Look up, Condor!” as an immature Andean Condor came in almost right over the van. With ease it caught a thermal and soon was quite high, though with some work we could follow it with scopes amid the clouds. It was a thrill to see this giant of the vulture clan! With that we opted for a reward – lunch at Hacienda Alegre. What a historic and beautiful place!

We were warmly welcomed into the hacienda by the owner, who had hot tea brewing for us to enjoy as we looked around. The rooms were charming, particularly a long, sun-lit porch with views of the Paramo and mountains. On the wall were saddles and riding gear, several pair of chaps made from wooly sheep, and the skins of mountain lion and Andean Fox. Our lunch was served on two long tables, with beautiful cloths and lovely dishes. We had the most delicious tamales imaginable, with a fresh and light masa that complemented hearts of palm and chicken. Sun filtered in through the centuries-old windows while Andean music filled the room. The colors, flavors, and ambiance combined with such a rich sense of history and place – a few of our group got nearly teary eyed with the sensory overload! We then had a potato and quinoa soup, and Greg led the pack to have a second helping of the Tres Leches (Three-milks) Cake for dessert. We relaxed to look around at the books, the historic photos, and the outside buildings, then stretched our legs with a short walk, where several of the group spied a Paramo Ground Tyrant along with the more common Plumbeous Sierra Finch. It was the perfect way to end our great journey to the ‘Magic Islands’ and beyond. Driving back down, Peg called for a stop as she spied a bird she’d hoped for – the now rare Black-faced Ibis, a single bird which stayed long enough for all to get a view in the scope. Only our flower fans got a quick view of Giant Hummingbird at our final stop, but keen-eyed Verna had luck spotting the Tawny Antpitta, one often heard but not seen. With this success, we headed into Quito, where some scattered for last minute shopping. Our final dinner was at La Ronda, where we enjoyed Pisco Sours compliments of Alice, and a lovely meal while musicians shared their talents. It was hard to say good-bye, as we were a well-cemented flock by this time in our journey!

Sat., Jan. 12 Departures / On to Peru for those extending their trip to Machu Picchu
Some of our group had to leave VERY early; we trust they had smooth journeys home. Those staying on for Peru had much of the day before late flights to Lima. Harry and Renata went down to explore Old Town and the beautiful San Francisco Cathedral, while others relaxed or explored shopping areas closer to the hotel. We caught flights to Lima, braved the traffic and bustle of a Saturday night into our hotel, caught a quick bite to eat and got some rest for our wonderful upcoming journey to Peru!

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