Honduras
February 2011 - Trip Report
Robert Gallardo, Guide and eight participants
Prepared by R. Gallardo

February 2011 found eight of Peg’s friends arriving in Honduras, ready to savor the country’s natural history, archaeological heritage, and varied cuisine. In addition to the main tour of the magnificent Mayan Copan Ruins, participants had the option of a pre-trip extension to the scenic Lake Yojoa basin.

Jeff, Ralph, and Vicki took that option and joined Robert at the Los Pinos Visitors Center at Cerro Azul Meambar National Park. We spent the first day at the park on hiking trails that meandered through the lush mid-elevation rain forest.  We found a large fruiting fig tree that brought in a constant assortment of birds including, Keel-billed Toucans, Collared Aracaris, parrots, and a group of Crested Guans. Another special avian treat was a pair of Blue-crowned Chlorophonias. Near our rooms was yet another eye-catcher: the finely ornamented Black-crested Coquette, which has resided there seasonally for the past five years. Not to be forgotten were the Blue-crowned Motmots that were seemingly everywhere.

On the second day we visited the Los Naranjos archeological site on the northwest corner of Lake Yojoa. There we saw many Snail Kites as they hunted apple snails. The raucous calls of the Rufous-naped Wrens filled the air as they foraged high in the trees. We also observed a wide assortment of migrant wood warblers, ranging from the Magnolia Warbler to the handsome Hooded Warbler and the shy Yellow-breasted Chat.

Our last full day at the Lake was spent in the highlands of Santa Barbara National Park. Upon arriving at the village of El Cedral, we met up with our local guide, Leonel. We made our way up the trail into the cloud forest and encountered a variety of highland birds that included Spot-crowned and Spotted Woodcreepers, the lovely Golden-browed Warbler, Yellowish Flycatchers, and Green-throated Mountain-Gems. Higher up in a clearing we were treated to some sunshine and a few more great sightings, including four Lincoln`s Sparrows–a rare sighting in Honduras! We also saw a Rufous-browed Wrens and a Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercers. A female Wine-throated Hummingbird flitted through–and, even better, we heard a male singing, which was a new record for the area!

The following day we awoke to soft gray skies and light rain. Just as we were leaving, five Crested Guans perched in a tree right above our rooms in plain sight–a lovely  farewell gift from Meambar. We then headed to the airport to rendezvous with the Davises, Ginger, Keiko, and Charlotte. With our group now complete, we were off to  Copan Ruins where we we'd spend the next six nights at La Chorcha Lodge.

We spent our first full day in Copan in the valley at the main ruins site. In the morning we birded along the nature trail where we got a brief look at a Common Black-Hawks and various species of orioles. Robert calls Copan the “Land of Orioles” as eight of the country’s ten species can be found within an 8-mile radius. The semi-wild Scarlet Macaws now fly freely about the ruins–truly a magnificent sight! After lunch, Luis provided an informative guided tour of the ruins.

For our first day in the field we headed to the nearby foothills along the La Laguna-San Francisco road. Along the lower section, we were treated to crowds of Indigo Buntings and Blue Grosbeaks. In a nearby dried-up corn field we found a covey of Crested Bobwhites who obligingly provided scope view– and at nearly the same moment a flock of White-throated Magpie-Jays flew by.. Just up the road Robert spotted two birds flying toward us and jumped out of the truck in time to identify two male White-breasted Hawks, one of which circled back and landed right in front of us. This small raptor is a prized sighting anywhere within its range!

As if we hadn’t had enough, more great birds awaited us: Farther up we found Elegant Euphonias feeding on fruiting mistletoe. This particular area has a high concentration of this parasitic plant, which draws in large numbers of this colorful bird. Nearby Robert  heard the familiar “cooing” and “chuckling” of the Blue-crowned Chlorophonias. We followed the sounds to an actual a flock, and after positioning ourselves ahead of them, we were able to watch them feed at very close range as they literally filled up the tree. We figured there were at least 30-40 birds–such a very special moment and probably a once-in-a-lifetime event! Additional sightings of a Stripe-tailed Hummingbirds and Bushy-crested Jays, as well as a delicious field lunch all added up to a stunning and memorable day trip.

The following day was overcast and drizzly as we returned to the mountains to enjoy slower but still deeply satisfying birding . In one large flock we managed to see many wood warblers including resident Grace`s Warblers, along with Black-headed Siskins, Hepatic Tanagers, and Greater Pewees. Adjacent to the road in a ravine called a Buffy-crowned Wood-Partridge, often a very difficult bird to observe. Along the way we stopped to look at blooming yellow passionflower (Passiflora citrina) which was only just discovered in western Honduras in the 1980s.

At the top of the mountain we arrived at the Miramundo coffee estate where we enjoyed lunch with the estate owner, Lloyd, surrounded by fog and near a cozy fire. Afterwards Lloyd gave us  a tour of the coffee-processing facilities housing their state of the art machinery. As the sun peeked out, we walked partway down the hill and were greeted by a Lesser Roadrunner who gave us an obligingly good view.

Our final “mountain” experience would be a visit to the El Gobiado nature reserve, which harbors the last humid lowland rainforest in western Honduras. We reached the hacienda and met up with a local guide, Merardo, then ambled out toward the forest, where we spotted some Giant Cowbirds, and White-fronted and Brown-hooded Parrots. Once inside the forest we settled to await what would come in. A female Blue-black Grosbeak, Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, and Buff-throated Foliage-Gleaners all paid us a visit. We also heard a Northern Bentbill and Sepia-capped Flycatchers, both secretive denizens of the forest understory. A Wedge-billed Woodcreeper came in, and we got really good looks at it as it climbed a large tree. We also saw some Slate-throated Redstarts and a pair of Plain Antvireos. After such a satisfying morning, we made our way back to the ranch for a light lunch at the hacienda before returning to the lodge.

On our final day in Copan we hopped a bus out to the El Puente archaeological site near La Entrada. While walking down the access road, we found a very cooperative pair of Painted Buntings. In the trees was an assortment of flycatchers including Hammond`s, Tropical Pewees, and  uncommon Greenish Elaenias. At the ruins site itself, we enjoyed the sun and solitude. Some seeding bamboo attracted flocks of Rose-breasted Grosbeaks and some Indigo Buntings. One pair of Indigo Buntings bathed in the sunlit stream, and the male glowed like a sapphire, while Turquoise-browed Motmots were seemingly everywhere. After enjoying our lunch there, we paused in the parking lot while a Honduran soldier showed us a nesting White-winged Dove in a thicket, so close we got a near macro view of it!

Before heading to San Pedro Sula, we visited the Las Sepulturas ruins in Copan. This place usually yields some good birding, and today was no exception. One good sighting was a Hook-billed Kite that passed by low overhead. A cooperative Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl afforded scope views, and we also got great looks at an Ivory-billed Woodcreeper and the diminutive Northern Beardless Tyrannulet. We had heard the Rufous-browed Peppershrike, but it had eluded us for days.  Today, we were able to see it at last. The place was also crawling with many species of orioles and Rufous-capped Warblers–what a bountiful morning for birding!

Reluctantly, we packed up and said good-bye to Copan. After reaching San Pedro Sula in the late afternoon, we visited some oxidation ponds at El Progres where we saw many Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, Northern Shovelers, Black-necked Stilts, and two Ruddy Ducks.

We finally got checked in to our hotel then had a fun and lively farewell dinner in town remembering what a great time was had by all!

 

Photo Credits:
Elegant Euphonia, Black-crested Coquette and Orchid image, Robert Gallardo

 

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