A Hungarian Sampler
Sept. 3 – 15, 2006 - Trip Report

Sun., Sept. 3 Arrivals / Budapest
Gerard Gorman, our expert Hungarian birding guide for this trip, met four of the group at the airport. Vivian was due the next day. Peg, unfortunately delayed by an airline mix-up, was not able to join the group until a few days into the trip.

Those arriving checked into the Hotel Carlton, which turned out to be a superb location for exploring Budapest: one block from the Danube and close to Buda’s castle district, it was simple to walk across the Chain Bridge and to take in the views. Jean, Fran, Ralph, Regina, and Gerard enjoyed dinner at a nearby cozy Hungarian restaurant; as they walked back to the hotel, they marveled at the enchanting the lights of this beautiful city.

Mon., Sept. 4 Kiskunsag Region
Gerard and our driver, Attila Vegh, picked up the group at 9:00 am for a leisurely start. We drove south out of the city and were soon in Kiskunsagi Nemzeti National Park. Our first challenge was to find Hungary’s signature bird, the Great Bustard. Using scopes and scanning the broad open landscape from a couple of roadside stops; we had success on the third stop. While standing on the rise of a Bronze-Age burial mound, we found a few of this magnificent rare bird in the distance on the plain. Continuing on, we found loads of Common Buzzards and Western Marsh Harriers, Skylarks, and flocks of Eurasian Curlew.

Driving the back roads through farms and rather poor rural homesteads, we caught sight of many colorful Eurasian Rollers on a wire. It was hard to pull our eyes away, but while out of the van to scope those birds, a flock of 30 male Great Bustards flew into a nearby field. Everyone got fantastic views -- spectacular! Fran, new to birding, was just enchanted; what a way to start!

We then enjoyed the first of many picnics out on the plains. On the way to our hotel we saw a number of colorful Eurasian Bee-eaters, as well as a myriad of Eurasian Rollers. Late in the afternoon we checked into a most comfortable hotel near Lajosmisze. We ate dinner in the garden of our hotel, entertained by gypsy musicians.

Tues., Sept. 5 Kiskunsag Region
This morning we birded the gardens of the hotel, which was, before the communist era, the grand manor of an estate. The current owners are restoring many of the buildings; in the meantime, however, several outbuildings have been taken over by wild things and were partially covered by lush vegetation. The overgrowth made for great bird habitat: we saw Black Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, two Pied Flycatchers, Eurasian Nuthatch, a hunting Eurasian Sparrow-hawk, and Chiffchaff. The owners were interested in preserving traditional Hungarian livestock breeds and had on display both Racka Sheep and Hungarian Gray Cattle. Eurasian Collared Doves, Black Redstarts, and Crested Larks flew among them.

After breakfast we went to explore the national park’s extensive salt lakes. En route, we found a Short-toed Eagle hovering over farm fields as it hunted for snakes. Its striking head shape and profile were unmistakable. We also looked at several Western Marsh Harriers, which display wide plumage variations as they age. At the lakes we climbed a tall tower for a view of the open landscape, vantage point from which we sighted Spotted Redshanks, Eurasian Spoonbill, Wood Sandpiper, Pied Avocet, Northern Lapwing, Yellow-legged Gull, and several species of ducks.

Attila provided a picnic lunch for us in the shade of Robinia trees (this tree is a relative of Acacia, introduced but prolific throughout Eastern Europe). He shopped daily, and chose local cheeses and lunchmeats, fresh tomatoes, breads, chips, wine, tea and chocolates. The Hungarian camembert was a favorite, and we discovered that Hungarians love pickles and serve them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

We visited several other salt lakes, but as the winds were picking up we saw mostly large birds: two Black Storks, a Eurasian Hobby, and Red-footed Falcon. For a rest stop, we stopped at a Csarda (a traditional roadside inn) for coffee. Then, still feeling a bit jet-lagged, we headed back to the hotel mid-afternoon. We rested and then met for an abundant and enjoyable veal dinner.

Wed., Sept. 6 Kiskunsag Region
After an delicious breakfast we returned to Kiskunsagi National Park for more birding and exploring, making sure that Vivian, who had come in a day late, got looks at the Great Bustard. Again we enjoyed the pageantry of rollers and bee-eaters; we also saw a number of large wading birds, including Gray Heron, Black Stork, and Great White Egret.

Ralph had lost his hat the day before in the high winds at the birding tower; wanting to replace it, he kept his eye out for a clothing shop. Gerard stopped reluctantly at an odd little discount store where, to his amazement (horror!), everyone dove into the shop. Attila was perplexed: “does everyone need hats?” he asked Gerard. Ralph picked up two rather bright green hats, while the ladies giggled over florescent bras and other great finds. This started a discourse about shopping that we revisited often during the rest of the trip, our shopping jokes let to some interesting stops during the trip – from roadside tag sales to an auto parts store in Tiszafured.

Returning to nature, we drove to some fishponds and wetland areas, where both the wildlife and the views contrasted with the surrounding plains. Attila masterfully navigated some pretty bad tracks to reach the best views of birds among the fish farms. We saw Common Greenshank, Penduline Tits, Little Grebe, Great Cormorant, several Purple Herons, Common Pochard, and some winter plumage Black Terns. Three Black Storks were soaring above; earlier we had seen White Stork on a local farmstead. The ponds vary in depth and maturity; some have extensive reed beds, while and others are deep and open water. We reached them on foot, enjoying the chance to stretch our legs a bit on canals lined with Queen Ann’s Lace, Chicory, Bladderpod, and other meadow flowers familiar to those from the American Midwest.

Satisfied with a good day, we headed back to the hotel for some r&r, birding in the gardens, and another great meal. Peg, who had arrived earlier in the day, joined thegroup for a dinner of classic Hungarian Goulash; at dinner; this dish is far more complex than the U.S. version, with a rich broth and scrumptous flavor.

Thurs., Sept. 7 Godolloi Kiralyi Kastely Museum / Travel to Aggtelek
Peg was eager to see some of the local garden birds that others had described to her the previous night, so we again birded gardens as an optional outing before breakfast. At this time of year migrants are leaving, so the sight of a Golden Oriole was terrific!

We also had our first Great Spotted Woodpeckers on the grounds. Gerard, an expert on the woodpecker order of birds, and author of a new book, The Woodpeckers of Europe (the only handbook on this family), provided us detailed information on each species.

After breakfast -- a buffet with cheeses, meats, eggs, fruit, and cereals -- we drove north, skirting the traffic of Budapest. For a break, we stopped at the newly restored Godolloi Kiralyi Kastely Museum, formerly one of the Hapsburg dynasty’s summer palaces. The lawns, gardens, sense of history, and the ornate furnishings were fantastic. We also observed Eurasian Blackbird, Eurasian Nut-hatch, and Great Spotted Woodpecker on the grounds.

Continuing on, we left the modern M3 motor-way and traveled winding back roads through a number of picturesque villages on the way to Aggtelek. Jean repeatedly murmured “Kodak moment,” entranced with the variety of metal gates and charming country architecture.

Above a farmer’s field Gerard spotted two adult Eastern Imperial Eagles, one flying and one perched. We quickly pulled over to watch them, getting fantastic views through the scope – great to witness the hunting behaviors of such a massive predator. On the wires the most common birds were Kestrel and Red-backed Shrike; also we saw our first Marsh Tit at a wayside picnic spot. Ralph led us up the hill to stretch our legs, and we identified the first of a growing list of the local butterflies.

As this was mainly a travel day, we took care of chores such as visiting an ATM, etc. In the afternoon we reached our hotel at Aggtelek, a couple hundred yards from the entrance to the famous caves. While the rest of our lodgings were cozy and delightful, this hotel, although in a prime location, gave us a taste of living in a communist-era, concrete building. The owner was delightful and helpful, and we had some delicious food. We agreed that the rather spartan Soviet-inspired accommodations were just an interesting part of our Hungarian experience! Roe deer fed on the lawns behind us, and Peg encountered a large mixed flock of migrant Chiffchaffs and Willow Warbler as she explored in the late afternoon.

Fri., Sept. 8 Aggtelek National Park / Baradla Cave / Local Birding
Gerard met us outside the hotel at 7:00 a.m. for a chance to bird before breakfast. Our find of the morning was a Gray-headed Woodpecker, which put on quite a show. After breakfast, we took our first walk of the day at the Tengerszem Pond, across from a nearby cave entrance; we walked down a rushing little stream with hopes of seeing one of Hungary’s only remaining pair of White-bellied Dipper. While we did not see this species (quite rare in Hungary now), we did find and photograph several beautiful adult Gray Wagtail. Near the quaint village of Josafo we had great luck spotting Syrian Woodpecker, which posed well for us.

We then strolled into the town of Josafo to take in and photograph the picturesque small stream, waterwheel, local church, and museum – but then the rains began in earnest. We quickly took refuge in the bus and, planning to return later, drove on through the countryside. Near a rock quarry we walked a bit, looking at mixed flocks of Great, Marsh, and Blue Tits; Ralph harvested loads of berries and nuts now ripe with the crisp fall weather. He fashioned a picking stick and found us ripe walnuts and hazelnuts to try right off the tree.

By lunch it was starting to drizzle again, and we were graciously offered use of the porch of a charming hiker’s hostel (the Szalamdra) in the national park to enjoy our lunch. Attila phoned the owner and creator of a small museum in Szoglieget, Istvan Duber, who agreed to share the artifacts and stories of his life and family.

It was touching to hear his animated recollection of both sad and joyous events. When Istvan was four years old, his father was killed in the war; Istvan held onto this house and opened the museum in honor of him. We saw everything from his mother’s clothes to the family farm implements, many of them fascinating! The kitchen implements were a large part of the collection; we all recognized the bread making equipment and loved the colorful crockery. We were there for a couple of hours, with Gerard skillfully translating. Our curator expressed hopes of having over 500 visitors this year – how privileged we were to be among them! There was sign announcing the existence of this museum – only because of our knowledgeable guides were we able to visit it.

In late the afternoon we toured Baradla Cave, a part of the dual nation UNESCO World Heritage Site that preserves the largest active stalactite cave system in Europe. Our young, English-speaking guide showed us room after room of rich flowstone features, many large enough to be considered monoliths. Several of the chambers were huge; one had been used as an auditorium for concerts since 1965. Bases of some of the pyramids were stained black from the early use of torches. All the features were quite colorful, with black, gray, and rust-red drip decorating them. Delicate soda straws and elegant, thin curtains formed from the ceiling.

We returned to find a lively crowd now staying at our Hotel Cseppko, with music in the dining room. We had fun listening to the mix of Hungarian and American tunes and enjoying our food. The manager treated us to some locally made plum brandy that packed a whallop; the poppyseed pastry dessert was unusual and delicious.

Sat., Sept. 9 Josafo / Lippenzaner Farm / Belapatfalva Abbey / Historic Eger / Buuk National Park
With the return of sunny fall weather, we returned to the picturesque village of Josafo this morning to take photos and walk around. The town was busy this Saturday morning, and many activities captured our attention: a garage sale in the main square, several men already at the pub, someone training a cart horse, and several local residents coming and going.

We then visited a small stud farm for local Carpathian (Hucul) mountain ponies, a sturdy breed suited to work in the mountains. Several mares were feeding in their stalls, one accompanied by a young foal. Their coloring was typical of foundation horse breeds around the globe, showing a dark line stripe on the back and tiger markings on the legs. Further along our route, we stopped at a farm that raises Hungary’s famous Lippenzaner horses. In their pasture they were relaxed, friendly, and happy to partake of grass treats we passed to them over the fence – quite a contrast our mental picture of proud, precise performers.

We had lunch at Belapatfalva Abbey, built in 1232. The typical lunch spread Attila put out each day consisted of fresh bread, a variety of cheeses and meats, chips, pickles, local fruits, and wines. And of course, chocolates! On high cliffs above the abbey, Common Ravens circled and called; we also had a quick look at a Northern Goshawk. Ralph picked black raspberries for us all to enjoy, and several of us watched the antics of Red Squirrel feeding in the large oak trees of this site.

After driving through the Hungarian countryside, we all enjoyed stretching our legs on a downhill hike from the Var-hegy (Fort Hill) trailhead to our hotel through beautiful woods with large trees and an open understory. We had good looks at Great Spotted Woodpecker along the way, and Gerard caught an Agile Frog to show us.

As we approached our small village of Noszvaj, we encountered an afternoon wedding party: it was fun to see all the festivities and wedding fashions. At our lodgings, the welcome and evening meal surpassed our hopes – wow! How nice to be greeted by such warm hospitality! We enjoyed our time here thoroughly and were even able to connect to the outside world via Internet connections.

Sun., Sept. 10 Noszvaj / A Forest Search for White-backed Woodpecker
This morning we had some of the best woodland birding of the trip at the edge of the village in an open habitat of large oaks bordering a forest. Best of all was an amazing woodpecker show: we had splendid views of Black, Lesser Spotted, Middle Spotted, Great Spotted Woodpeckers! We also had great views of Common Treecreeper, and a flock of Hawfinch were so busy feeding in one group of trees they ignored our close advances.

We birded early in the morning then returned for another outstanding meal, today a buffet breakfast with fine sausages, sweets beyond belief, cheeses, eggs, and home-made breads and jams. Some in our group said they’d like to go back to bed! We were determined, however, to find our missing woodpecker species, the rare White-backed Woodpecker

Soon were on our way to an area of old-growth forest, where we quickly found trees with stripped bark, the telltale sign of this woodpecker’s feeding habits. Alas, it was very quiet in the woods today, though we did enjoy the stunningly beautiful mature woodlands of hornbeam, beech, a variety of oaks, and ash. Fran commented on the steady rain of colorful leaves that caught the light and the soft green glow that dappled the ground through the dense canopy.

Though birds were quiet in the sun, butterflies abounded: we found Great Banded Grayling, Silver washed Fritillary, Comma, Peacock, Red Admiral, and more.

It was a day of good walking, a good mix of woodland birds, and --for many – a good sighting of a life bird, the Coal Tit. Though we all made a great effort, only Ralph and Attila were able to see and hear our target species, though we picked up some more Great Spotted and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers.

After a day afield, we returned to relax a bit and enjoy the camraderie of the hotel staff. We had another amazing dinner: a Hungarian-style barbecue, shared with the members of the national female water polo team. We lingered a bit in the cool evening air, delighted when they brought out a cake in honor of Fran’s birthday.

Mon., Sept. 11 Bukk Foothills
Early this morning we walked around the pond by our hotel, where we saw Green Wood-pecker and a variety of woodland species. One more time we returned for a fabulous, massive breakfast. Once underway, our first stop was in the Bukk foothills. We checked on a Black Woodpecker nest built earlier in the season, but it had been taken over by bees. Near Gerard’s regular Eastern Imperial Eagle site we found Whinchat and watched farmers harvesting apples -- but no eagles today. We also watched several butterflies, including Clouded Yellow and several small blues.

We then drove to a local reservoir where Fran spotted a new species for the trip, the Linnet. We also had good looks at Eared Grebe, Yellow legged Gull, and several Gray Herons. Stopping in the village of Bogacs (known for its thermal spas) for coffee, we were served by a waiter so grumpy it was a bit comical. While taking photos in the town, Jean found just across the street from the coffee shop a wonderful local museum. The curator there welcomed us warmly, sharing her knowledge of the collection of farm tools and local antiquities.

We decided to have our picnic in the wood where we had searched for the elusive White-backed Woodpecker the day before. Attila and Ralph, working the stretch of woods close to the river, saw the bird well; the rest of us did not have such luck. As Ralph noted, however, this elusive woodpecker was completely quiet, so it was sheer luck and being in the right place at the right time that they were able to see it.

Accepting our luck, or lack thereof, we returned to our hotel for an afternoon break before our planned visit to a local winery. This turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip! We learned so much from the hospitable owner and vintner. The sense of history at this vineyard was quite moving: the same family has owned it for generations. The owners’ current challenge was to rebuild its former renown after a decline during the communist era. Their specialty is blended Bull’s Blood wines using local varietals. We tasted quite a few wines and returned quite cheerfully to a fabulous dinner of duck and local vegetables prepared at our country hotel.

Tues., Sept. 12 Bukk Hills / Southern Plains / Hortobagy
Okay, birders are allowed a few obsessions. Ralph agreed to join Peg, who wanted to try ONE MORE TIME for this White-backed Woodpecker – whose signs and habitat we now knew in detail. Attila, our kind driver, and Gerard, our amazing guide, we made an early run. Again it appeared down by the river, while we, of course, were uphill on a parallel track through the forest. So, we heard but did not see it – an invitation to Peg to return to Hungary! We did have great views of a very quiet Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, as well as the now familiar mix of Nuthatches and a variety of tits.

We returned to breakfast where Ralph made chive omelets for us. Fresh stewed apricots, pastries, homemade sausage, and breads complemented his omelets -- after which we reluctantly packed up to leave this delightful country hotel!

After checking a few sites, we left the Bukk Hills to drive south to the great Hungarian plains of Hortobagy. While driving, several of us quickly spotted a large raptor, which Gerard confirmed was an Eastern Imperial Eagle adult – wow! A Common Buzzard and a Kestrel both chased after it -- quite the raptor show for us. We then drove for a few hours through agricultural flatlands, grasslands, and quaint villages, along the way spotting Eurasian Roller, Marsh Harrier, Lesser Gray Shrike, and more.

The definite highlight of the day in the birding realm was seeing a distant pair of rare Saker Falcons. Gerard found them roosting on two electricity pylons across an agricultural field. We got scope views, comparing the size of male to female, and then were treated to a great flight demonstration when the female took off on a rapid, purposeful flight. We got good looks at flocks of Stove Dove here too; we also saw a good number of Red-footed Falcons while en route.

While we stopped in the village of Poroszlo for picnic supplies, Fran led some of the group off to enjoy an ice cream and to check out baskets sold by gypsies at a street market nearby. Outside of town we stopped at Lake Tisza to devour our picnic while birding. From a viewing deck we scoped Whiskered Tern, a variety of ducks, and myriad geese, as well as Black-crowned Night-Heron. Ralph found an abundance of tree frogs and Vivian spotted a Little Crake that, to our amazement, stayed out for scope views as it fed in a small canal. Numerous Great-crested Grebes swam on the lake, along with loads of cormorants and coots. Jean counted 50-plus Mute Swans, a treat to see in their long-necked elegance.

After basking in the sun and birding at the lake, we headed into Hortobaby National Park, about a half-hour away. Along the way, we spotted two Short-toed Eagles perched and then flying along the road. At a small town near the park’s visitor center we looked for Stone Curlew; instead we found Purple Heron, Crested Lark, Tawny Pipit, and a horse-drawn cart with men handling hand-scythed hay. After her husband, Ralph, spotted them, Regina counted over 150 Common Cranes in a flock overhead. We also had our first views of Sedge Warbler, which would prove to be more common in the days ahead.

By mid-afternoon we reached Tiszafured and our charming hotel, the Nadas Panzio. Peg caught up on trip notes by the pool, while Jean and Fran laughed and enjoyed wine from yesterday’s winery visit before going with the group to a nearby local restaurant.

Wed., Sept 13 Hortobagy National Park
Upon request we had a bit of a “lie-in,” followed by a quick breakfast at our hotel. For those up and around there was a Syrian Woodpecker calling in the garden and Black Redstart on the lawn. Peg and Vivian enjoyed a pre-breakfast walk through the local village, where each home had a garden full of flowers, so pretty in the morning light.

After breakfast we ventured out to new sections of Hortobagy National Park, going first to a vast area of wetlands and ponds. Turning up the dirt track we caught sight of Eurasian Curlew, Purple Heron, and a noisy flock of Common Cranes. Near a pictures-que farm we had superb views of Little Owl -- quite like the Burrowing Owl in the U.S., and for several one of the birding highlights of the trip. First an adult owl perched on a bale of hay, then it flew to a cement pylon where it ducked in and out. We really had splendid views.

Today was a banner day for water-fowl. We saw quite a variety of migrant shorebirds, including Wood Sandpiper, Ruff, Spotted Redshank, and Greater Ringed Plover, mixed with thousands of Greylag Geese and a variety of ducks. As we drew near, a White-tailed Eagle flew overhead, and the whole lot blew up in a spec-tacular show! Later we saw flocks of Spoonbills, as well as our first Pygmy Cormorants.

Driving another mile further in to the park, we stopped and walked along a roadside wetland, finding Green Sandpiper, a juvenile Squacco Heron, White Wagtail, lots of Common Snipe, and Sedge Warbler, a secretive species that was close enough to pose for photos. Loads of Whiskered Terns and more Pygmy Cormorants flew above us, too. It was a bird extravaganza against the backdrop of a stunning open landscape – as clouds built in the open skies above we all became enchanted with these plains.

We then ventured into the tourist area of the park, as coffee and Pepsi were calling, as well as the local museum and handicraft market. The pastoral museum had a number of old photographs, excellent displays on local breeds of sheep and cattle, and examples of the equipment of Hungarian cowboy life. Outside the museum, some of our group photographed beautiful horses puling carts, while others took on the challenge of dealing with the Hungarian language to mail items at the local post office.

Our next stop was a wooded glade full of fresh fall scents to enjoy our wine from the Bukk Hills, fresh bread, good Hungarian Camembert, and chocolate – no one was losing any weight on this journey! The sun was warm, the leaves were falling, and in the background we could hear the chorus of both Marsh and Edible Frogs –a lovely picnic.

In the afternoon we walked out to a number of fish farms. At one of the deepest we got amazing looks at Ferruginous Ducks in the water and several Tufted Ducks in flight. Just as we were about to leave we heard the loud call of the Water Rail; but, as is typical of this species, it remained hidden. Walking near another fishpond, we found a group of Bearded Tit that Jean announced were “really cute,” as well as a cooperative Reed Warbler.

With Fran’s encouragement, we returned to the southeastern grasslands to try again for the Stone Curlew – this time with great success! Gerard found and got us scope views of nine Stone Curlews (Eurasian Thick-knee) while Peg and Ralph pursued excellent views of Lesser Spotted Eagle perched in a nearby field.

On our way back to Tiszafured, we stopped at a local gallery that featured leather goods and, at Fran’s request (being a store owner back home), a Hungarian auto supplies store. Tonight was a free night for dinner, and people spread out among the local restaurants.

Thurs, Sept. 14 Hortobagy National Park
Those who wished took a morning walk through the local village before returning for a breakfast of scrambled eggs, homemade toast, yogurt, and more. Then we headed onto the main road into Hortobagy National Park. As soon as we left the city limits of Tixzafured, Peg spotted another White-tailed Eagle flying almost right over the bus.

At the park, we walked a trail into the Great Fish Farm area, which took us through Hortobagy’s most extensive wetlands. Just out of the bus we had glimpses of Kingfisher and Little Bittern, both first sightings for the trip. We followed the kingfisher up the canal a way, but got only quick flight views. Continuing our walk down the track, we found several Night-Heron to be much in evidence; several Reed Warblers also put on a bold show. Once again we had fantastic views of Bearded Tit, this time Jean spotted a whole family at very close range.

At one of the largest ponds, we scoped a good number of roosting Pygmy Cormor-ants; by now we were familiar with this Eastern European specialty. We enjoyed views of close Whiskered Terns, including one lingering in breeding plumage. To top off the morning, we saw over 1,000 Graylag Geese -- just the number of waterfowl was truly impressive at this site.

On some late blooming wildflowers along the edge of the pond we found Large Copper butterflies as well as a mixed flock of warblers, Eurasian Goldfinch, and both male and female Blackcap. It was fun to climb the bird observation tower for a panoramic view of the extensive reed and pond system. Lingering there, we had a fascinating discussion about conservation during the communist era and how it has changed since. Walking back, we found Fire bellied Toad, and a variety of frogs – a clear signal of the health and abundance of these wetlands.

Patient Gerard! We wanted to see Mangalica, or Woolly Pig, one of the local breeds we had not yet seen while passing local farms. After pondering the options, Gerard settled upon taking us to the Old Breeds Domestic Animal Park, where we could view and photograph a number of historic species at close range. After getting our fill of seeing and photographing Hungary’s unique domesticated animals, we enjoyed our picnic lunch on site. While there, we found emaciated, and possibly injured Little Owl huddling by the road. Vivian put it carefully into a basket, let it rest, and Gerard called the national park for advice on where to take it. The park staff directed us to a nearby bird hospital – we hope the owl recovered fully!

Now close to the village of Hortobagy, our shoppers needed a fix. Attila, provider of our delicious lunches, could not believe we then made our way to coffee and more food, sour cream and sour cherry crepes, yum!

On the way back from Hortobagy Village we stopped at several roadside fishponds, getting great looks at Ferruginous Duck and Penduline Tit – the latter a first for Peg. Marsh Harrier were common throughout the day; many were older dark females with shining tan heads. We also found Gargenay in fall plumage in one of the lakes, and an adult White Stork on a small pond en route back to the village.

We celebrated the completion of Naturalist Journeys’ first trip to Hungary with a grand final dinner along the Tisza River, where our restaurant provided a great selection of Hungarian specialty dishes!

Fri., Sept. 15 Return to Budapest
Today we returned to Budapest, arriving by midday. All the members of our group had elected to stay on to explore this amazing, historic city with its picturesque bridges, a variety of architectural styles, and rich musical and cultural history. As we had a small group, all explored as they wished; in the evenings we often met up for meals and concerts. Our hotel turned out to be a perfect loca-tion from which to walk to many key sights, and we log-ged many miles as we learned much about the history and delights of Budapest!

All photos by Peg Abbott.

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