Jamaica
April 9-17, 2006 - Trip Report

Sun., April 9 Arrival in Kingston / Liguana Gardens
Coming from various states, our group arrived at our accommodations at Liguanaa Gardens throughout the day. At this lodge we rested after travel and were introduced to some of Jamaica’s garden birds. Peg found 25 species in the garden, with a few more added on the drive along the seawall as we left the airport. It was a beautiful day, with dramatic clouds building up in an otherwise Kodachrome blue sky. We enjoyed an abundance of Loggerhead Kingbirds, Olive-throated Parakeets, and Banaquit, and also saw Jamaican Euphonia, our first endemic species. Best of all, the Red-billed Streamertail proved both common and bold, feeding in flowering shrubs at arm’s length as we sat on our porches. Outrageous for such a bird to be a common sight!

For dinner, we drove a short way to a wonderful local establishment, an open-air restaurant and patisserie called The Guilt Trip. As Polly and Ernest came in on the later flight, we had plenty of time to slow down and enjoy the Jamaican cuisine. We had delicious pumpkin soup, hors d’oeuvres of crepes made of Ackee fruit, and various entrees adorned with wonderful island sauces – lime, ginger, tamarind, and others. Off to bed to get ready for our early start the next day.

Mon., April 10 Hope Gardens / Blue Mountains at Forres Park
Meeting John Fletcher at dawn, we drove a short way during the bright, clear morning to Hope Gardens. At the entrance we found Red-billed Streamertails busily feeding, putting on a show for everyone. Near them, a pair of Jamaica Euphonias had built a nest. John explained the history of the gardens and pointed out many of the local and introduced trees. He smiled as he reviewed the yearly calendar of migrant and resident bird activity, remembering his many years of birding here. Walking up the tree-lined drive with views of the Port Royal Foothills behind myriad flowering trees, we picked up our pace as we heard the squacking calls of parrots. We got delightful views of another Jamaican endemic species, Yellow-billed Parrots, which seemed to be investigating a possible nest cavity.

We were soon distracted, however, as John pointed out a Peregrine Falcon. Nearby, we zoned in on the West Indian race of American Kestrel – a red-breasted male paired with a pale breasted female. In the small pond we found Common Moorhen; making a loop back to the parking lot we found several migrant warblers. Then we returned to our hotel, where Warren was busy at work preparing a delicious traditional Jamaican breakfast of Ackee, Saltfish, eggs, and more.

Fortified, we drove to a little-trafficked road in the foothills that ran alongside a small stream. Here we found several more endemics, including Jamaican Vireo, Orangequit, and Jamaican Woodpecker. Peg was delighted to see a Worm-eating Warbler, an eastern U.S. migrant now in breeding plumage. We stopped for lunch at a vegetarian restaurant in the gardens. Warmed by soft breezes, we watched families and groups of children enjoying this fine day in the public garden.

After lunch we packed up and headed into the mountains to our lodge at Forres Park. Driving along the winding mountain road, Wayne discussed the histories of the towns along the way. Soon we were settling into the delightful, treehouse-like lodge among coffee plantations at Mavis Bank. The estate’s coffee bushes were in full flower, producing a divine aroma. Hummingbirds, a Greater Antillean Bullfinch, and several Black-faced Grassquits fed in the profusion of hibiscus flowers surrounding our porch.

Polly took a walk to inspect the gardens, then all gathered to sample a Red Stripe Beer – not the first of our evening Jamaican beers. Warren, who had driven with us from Liguana Gardens, fixed us a grand dinner. Just before dinner one of the staff showed us a family of Jamaican Owls that were roosting in a breadfruit tree above the dining area. We listened carefully for their dusk calls; there was no mistaking their odd croaking noises as they moved to other trees to begin their night hunting.

Tues., April 11 Mavis Bank Coffee Mill / Cinchona Gardens
In the morning, Warren brought us coffee on the veranda while we enjoyed views of Red-billed Streamertails and the tiny Vervain Humminbird feeding on the mass of flowering shrubs -- particularly hibiscus and cattail -- that adorned this appealing porch. Black-faced Grassquits and Banaquits joined in the feeding frenzy; at the base of flowering coffee bushes the Hopping Dick (White-chinned Thrush) cocked his tail and watched us warily.

Peg was itching to see a Jamaican Tody, a bird we’d likely see frequently in the following days; so she walked the trails and irrigation paths on the steep slope above the lodge. John had coached her the day before to listen for the bird’s distinct “chit” sound, then to just stop and watch for movement. Now of course, the “chit” seemed to move uphill with each utterance. Before long she had spectacular views of the small town of Mavis Bank and the lodge down below. After some hand-to-hand scrambling over the limestone soil – success! What an endearing little bird, with its plump form and magenta throat. Best of all, with each “chit” the Tody puffed up its throat and tossed its sword-like bill.

Back to a full breakfast and then on with our day! Jill Bylas, one of the authors of the Jamaica Natural History Association’s handbook on the Blue Mountains, arrived and gave us a quick introduction with maps. She escorted us down to the neighboring coffee factory at Mavis Bank, the oldest in Jamaica. Wonderful smells of roasting coffee emanated from the first building; but we were whisked away by the indomitable Mrs. Johnson, who promised we’d taste the best cup of coffee in the world before long.

Mrs. Johnson, who clearly ran the show here, instantly won over Polly, who admired her “shake a shake” demonstration. Mrs. Johnson could surely win any local dance contest while describing the coffee drying process and the need to shake off the outer parchment of the coffee beans or “cherries.” We laughed, enjoyed watching the many workers at their jobs (all jobs done by hand, including packing and gluing tight the bags), and marveled at the mountain scenery in the background. Gray Kingbirds that sallied forth from the electric wires above the coffee-drying patio. After sampling a strong brew, we were ready to hike up the mountains!

We took four-wheel-drive vehicles up the rough road to the trailhead. Omar skillfully navigated the ruts etched by rains from last summer’s nearby hurricanes. At a scenic point overlooking the valley, still amid small villages, we started our ascent. We walked slowly while Jill taught us about the flowering plants and butterflies. Despite the drought, many flowers bloomed. Native vegetation mixed with introduced plants: Cheeseberry Bramble, Wild Impatiens, and the now wild Red Canna. We heard the Vervain Hummingbird often and watched a hunting American Kestrel fly away with its mouse.

High above the valley we enjoyed looking down on Red-tailed Hawk, one of this island’s few native hawk species. The lower hills were largely denuded of vegetation save for food crops and an African grass that small farmers use for goat fodder. Near Cinchona Gardens -- once an experimental plot where British landholders tried to grow quinine to treat malaria -- we found native Cyathea Tree Ferns and large trees adorned with Hohenbergia and Guzmania bromeliads. A lovely path beckoned us to explore the gardens.

Then the heavens opened up to deliver some impressive rains, so we took refuge under the trees and on the porch of the caretakers’ home, sharing the latter with a large rooster and his harem. Our timing was superb: while it rained we enjoyed sandwiches, fruit, and our June Plum juice. Once the rains let up we continued to tour the garden.

Nearly abandoned, this high-elevation garden and its charming country house of the ex-governor charmed us all. At the precipice of the valley, one can sit on a bench draped with Old Man’s Beard lichen and enjoy great views of Blue Mountain Peak and the Grand Ridge that drapes its sides. A reflection pool and small Koi ponds with colorful water lilies decorate the patio of the governor’s home, along with side beds of flowering begonia and Aristea Iris. Orchids still stretch up from their pots, tucked in the shade of the building. A shade cloth flapped in the wind near the abandoned potting shed, where potted plants still prosper and threaten to take over the terrace. It seems that anything will grow in the mist and fertile volcanic soil here. We saw Black-throated Blue and Cape May Warblers, then decided to head down the trail before the rains returned. A wonderful day in a remote paradise – with the great help of local guide Jill Bylas.

Polly and Ernest had decided not to climb up to the gardens, so Jill kindly provided a treat for them at day’s end – a short trip to her own hilltop garden, where views of the mountains framed lovely beds of flowers and shrubs. Peg found Greater Antillean Eleania feeding, as well as a number of American Redstarts and our faithful Black-throated Blue Warblers. Striped Tanagers – also new for us on this trip -- gorgeous, with an ochre and orange throat below bold black and white patterns on the head! While we dined and day gave way to night, the Jamaican Owl family uttered their odd croaking sounds – what a captivating day in Jamaica!

Wed. April 12 Blue Mountains & Hardware Gap / Tamarind Great House
After a quick breakfast of fruit and coffee that Warren provided, we had an early start, driving along mountain roads to Hardware Gap in the Blue Mountains. We enjoyed the clear weather and views of historic Irish Town (the military training center at Newcastle), and expansive Kingston Harbor below. We emerged from our vehicle, a bit groggy from the ride, to a beautiful morning with sounds of Rufous-throated Solitaire in the forest. We met Ryan Love, local park ranger and guide.

We hoped to find several endemic birds here. It turns out that Ernest, lingering behind the rest of the group, was watching one of our target birds, the Crested Quail Dove, munching on large red berries! Not realizing its importance, he didn’t call our attention to it; the rest of us were engrossed in views of a Sad Flycatcher sallying forth – also new to us. We found Jamaican Vireo, Greater Antillean Bullfinch, and had wonderful views of the Jamaican Tody; but were not able to see the Crested Quail Dove!

We drove on to a spot where we could walk the Hardware Gap Road, north of the actual Gap itself. We found a magical spot where epiphytes draped the trees, and lichens in a variety of colors decorated the trunks as well as rock walls lining the road. We lingered among the amazing array of flowers: large Angel’s Trumpet bushes, introduced azaleas and rhododendron, blue Agapanthis Lilies, orange Daylilies, and more.

We watched Jamaican Stripe-headed Tanagers as we had our breakfast snack, and Peg had a distant look at our first Rufous-tailed Flycatcher, the largest of the island’s Myarchis. Jamaican Todys were common as promised, posing for us cooperatively. We had great looks at a pair of secretive Blue Mountain Vireos as they sat below us on open branches of a large tree and then in a flowering melostome. Ryan’s keen eye caught the movement of a White-eyed Thrush, perched furtively in tall Blue Mahoe trees. We had excellent luck birding, while learning more from Ryan about Jamaica’s national parks. Ty and Peg took numerous photos, but it’s hard to capture the majesty of the lush forests that drape these mountain slopes.

Mist started to rise as we returned to the bus – by the time we reached the Gap Café for lunch it was starting to pour. Red-billed Streamertails still came to the feeders and bathes in the rain. We enjoyed our refuge -- lovely tablecloths and place settings, lace curtains parted to reveal nature’s bounty, and good hot pumpkin soup.

After lunch we drove down the mountains, back through Kingston, past Devon House and Bob Marley’s home (now a museum). African Tulip and Yellow Poui trees were at their peak of bloom, and sun graced the many plantings of the city. After a few quick errands, we took the main road across the island, eventually following the valley of the Aqualta River.

At day’s end, we reached the impressive Tamarind Great House in time to enjoy the late afternoon light and sunset from the verandah. Our hosts, Jillian and Barry, greeted us warmly and shared the story of returning this home to its former elegance. We enjoyed a barbecue dinner by the pool, lit by a beautiful full moon – so lovely!

Thurs., April 13 Sun Valley Plantation / Green Castle Plantation / Northern Caribbean Coast to Mockingbird Hill
After yesterday’s activities, it was a pleasure to have a leisurely morning, waking to the sounds of parakeets and Jamaican Todys calling from the gardens and plantations. Early in the morning, Ginny spotted a Peregrine Falcon on the gracious porch. A stunning male Jamaican Mango came to the hibiscus – beautiful in its red, purple, and yellow coiffure. Polly enjoyed visiting with the owner, who introduced her to the large frog she had listened to much of the night. Ginny, Peg, and Ernie walked with Ryan up the road through agricultural fields dotted with tropical trees. We took in lovely views of the ridge and valley and found about 30 species of birds -- including Olive-throated Parakeets, Orangequit, Euphonias, and our first really close views of Jamaican Oriole. Then all enjoyed breakfast on the veranda.

We spent much of the day learning about agriculture in Jamaica at two lovely and very different plantations. The first, Sun Valley, was just down the hill from the hotel. En route Ernie spotted two Belted Kingfishers on telephone wires. Our informative and delightful hostess at Sun Valley, gave us a tour and taught us a lot about coconuts. She explained the particulars of growing coconuts as a crop and showed us the parts of a coconut: water, milk, jelly, and meat. Once a commercial banana plantation, Sun Valley is now diversified and depends mainly on coconut, Vanilla Orchids, and a variety of smaller products for its income. We took a leisurely walk though a “typical” Jamaican garden, where we observed and in some cases got to taste local fruits. For Peg, coming from a desert home, the lush greenery heavy with fruit was astounding!

Then we drove along the coast to Green Castle, a plantation that grows papaya, coconut, and orchids (the latter in extensive greenhouses). Although the Green Castle proprietors initially targeted the export market, they’ve since discovered a domestic demand for their organic, hand pressed coconut oil and orchids of all forms and colors. So now they are responding by building more greenhouses.

After this delightful tour, we boarded the bus for the northern Caribbean coast. We had a quick lunch on the beach and got the scope out to view Masked Duck, Least Grebe, Killdeer, Morning Dove, and other species at a small pond. The day’s travels ended with our arrival at the gracious Hotel Mockingbird Hill. What a delight: a welcoming staff, an evocative interior rich with Caribbean art & vibrant colors, and open-air veranda with views of the sea. Instant relaxation, and a delicious dinner to boot!

Fri. April 14 Ecclesdown Road / John Crow Mtns. / Lunch at the Beach
For anyone who loves birding, a full morning spent on the Ecclesdown Road is an absolute treat. Dense forest lines this little traveled country road, and Ryan claims that one can see all the endemics here! We had some outstanding finds, including both species of Cuckoo, Jamaican Becards (which seemed to be on a nest), and a quick look at a Black-billed Parrot in some dense foliage.

We enjoyed the special show of a Jamaican Oriole taking a bath in a bromeliad -- a plant it frequents for feeding as well. Jamaican Crows called and sang all along the road; we were also able to observe their antics for a while. We topped off our outing with a superb field breakfast packed by the Hotel Mockingbird Hill and time in the forest to look at the many blooming flowers and trees.

Wayne took us to a great restaurant in Long Bay for lunch, where we enjoyed some of the freshest fish you can imagine. After a short beach walk, we headed back to Mockingbird Hill to relax a bit. Peg and Polly started off the cocktail hour meeting a local Peace Corps worker and her mother – how lovely to enjoy conversation on their elegant porch, with a view of the sea. Sunset prompted many to take out their cameras – what a place!

 

Sat. April 15 Rio Grande Rafting / Frenchman’s Cove
What a fun day! This birding holiday was really beginning to feel like a vacation. After a leisurely breakfast, Wayne picked us up around 9 a.m. to take us to the starting point of our raft trip. We floated gently down the beautiful river on bamboo rafts of a unique local design, two people per raft. Each vessel was decked with flowers –we felt like a royal flotilla!

The movie star Errol Flynn began this rafting tradition, challenging his guests to races down the river. We watched several Belted Kingfishers cross the river and got frequent looks at Spotted Sandpiper. Possibly the highlight of the day was lunch at Miss Betty’s: cooking over a campfire on the riverbank, she prepared the most delicious meal of chicken with local jerk spices – wow! Peg and Ginny went down to the beach at Frenchman’s Cove in the afternoon, and enjoyed wading and watching the locals. Dinner was superb, the only dilemma being what to order among the excellent choices!

Sun. April 16 Port Antonio & Pelu Island / Lunch at Dickey’s / Mockingbird Hill
What a special place to observe Easter Sunday! In the morning we did some birding along the road up to Mockingbird Hill, then Wayne took us to a local Port Antonio restaurant and boat dock. We enjoyed a boat ride around the harbor and time on Pelu Island. Though the snorkeling was disappointing, the colors of the water and the breezes on the reef were divine.

We then had our Easter meal at Dickey’s, a shack perched on the edge of the sea. This great little hideaway and its first-class chef have been featured in The New York Times and several major travel magazines – and no wonder! We had several courses, all cooked to perfection. We ate on mismatched antique china plates – a charming presentation.

Late in the afternoon we relaxed, watching from the porch the activities of several Black-billed Streamertails in the Wild Orchid tree. Peg took a swim in the hotel’s lovely pool. Although we had seen all of Jamaica’s endemic birds, several Caribbean specialties, and a lot of beautiful butterflies and plants, we hated to see this trip come to an end.

Mon. April 17 East Coast Scenic Drive / Departures
We woke up early today to accommodate our mid-day flights. Shireen and Barbara had a first-rate field breakfast ready for us to enjoy en route, with Blue Mountain coffee and more of the delicious breads we now had to wean ourselves from. We passed some beautiful beaches, quiet coves, and stopped near some tall sea cliffs for views of several White-tailed Tropicbirds. Close to the airport near Yallis Pond, we stopped again to search for new species – Laughing Gulls and Royal Terns put on a good show.

Warren delivered us to the airport right on time, so we were able to relax in the departure lounge before saying our goodbyes. This beautiful island has so much to offer – natural history, culture, and gracious hospitality -- Peg is already planning next year’s return!

 

 

 

Photo Credits:
Two rocking chairs on the porch and the raft, Hotel Mockingbird Hill; all other photos by Peg Abbott.

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