A Michigan Sampler: Leelanau, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park, Manitou Island & Kirtland’s Warbler
May 30 - June 6, 2009 - Trip Report
Peg Abbott, Jayne Schafer and local guides with 9 participants

Sat., May 30 Arrival in Traverse City, Michigan
The six of our group that met today will fondly remember the Mio section of this trip ‘the Great Warbler Hunt’. It turned out to be far more than just a hunt for a targeted species and we were all glad we ventured east to the center of the state ahead of exploring the Leelanau Peninsula.  We gathered with ease at the Cherry Capital Airport and were soon immersed in a canopy of green as we drove east, stopping to walk at the Sand Lakes Quiet Area. We walked to a small glacier-created marl lake about a mile up the trail. Jack-in-the-Pulpits were common wildflowers and we caught sightings of our first Pink Lady Slipper Orchids, also known as Moccasin Flowers.  Starflowers, lichens, ferns and mosses were abundant ground cover as well. A young family was camped by the lake though as it was COLD.  We were happy to later reach our comfortable cottages tucked right alongside the Au Sable River at Mio. Richard heard a Belted Kingfisher as we were unpacking, we all had good looks at Red-bellied Woodpeckers and underfoot in woods behind the cabins we spied a carpet of White Trillium. The owners were very friendly and we had plenty of space, heat, views of the pond and for Owen, a chance to watch the Michigan Red Wings play one of the Stanley Cup Final’s games in hockey.  Dinner was at O’Brien’s where we had fun catching up on the months and years gone by since our last adventure.  Delicious Walleye and Yellow Perch, hand-battered and lightly fried was top choice this evening.

Sun., May 31 Kirtland's Warbler / Mio
The question of the morning was, “at 38?F does a Kirtland’s Warbler miss their wintering space in the Bahamas?”  There was mist rising off the small pond as we set off on a cold morning to meet the US Forest Service biologist who would give us a tour of the Kirtland's Warbler’s Jack Pine nesting habitat.  We met at the Forest Service office in Mio where they started us off with a short film, then caravaned by car to the first of two sites. We learned that the birds use large blocks of habitat but take to trees quite young.  The patch chosen for our tour was ideal for viewing as trees were not yet head high and though thick, we still had good views at a colorful singing male which came up and posed for our inspection. We could not have had a better opportunity!  The bird was in range to at least try some telephoto images and it filled the frames of our spotting scopes.  Cold weather did not dampen the male’s song and we were careful to stay in a small area so as not to tromp on a nest, which is placed in thick grass on the ground. In the background a Brown Thrasher serenaded us during the talk and several Common Ravens flew by.

Time passed quickly as we checked another nesting area (no action here) and then viewed and discussed Brown Cowbird traps essential to success of this recovery.  This population has exceeded the goal of 1000 breeding pair and is being considered for delisting, though management agencies must remain vigilant about managing habitat through fire and clearing. Last year 1791 singing males were counted in Michigan and the program is being studied worldwide for its achievement.

We had finished the tour mid-morning so we drove on in search of another sought-after species, the Upland Sandpiper. Normally there are good places to find this species on open agricultural lands of the Amish north of Mio.  By now it was windy and even colder so we were content to stay in the car as we searched. The landscape was lovely with buds bursting into leaves on a variety of trees creating the effect of a tapestry. Rich soils, fat dairy cattle and meticulous farms gave a storybook feel to the region. At the damned part of the river near Mio we did see Bald Eagle and Osprey and Ring-billed Gulls.  In farm fields we spotted Eastern Bluebirds and Bobolinks but not our target Upland Sandpipers, which for some reason  seemed scarce this year. We did have the chance to watch the Amish work their horses as they pulled out from Sunday services onto the road in buggies, sometimes four or five at a time.   

It remained cold, in the low 60?’s, but Peg lobbied to pursue our plans for a canoe ride on the Au Sable which turned out to be grand fun. Hinchman Acres provided canoes and a shuttle and we put in early afternoon to enjoy a couple hours on the river. We had it mostly to ourselves this early in the season. Lynn and Richard spotted a female Barrow’s Goldeneye but for the most part birds were quiet. We just enjoyed scenery, serenity and the chance to paddle. The Au Sable is wide and deep, lined by trees and prized by fly-fisherman.  Ruth spotted patches of Marsh Marigold that became common as we paddled downstream. This adventure proved to be one of the highlights of our journey.

We fit in one more walk, this time near Grayling at Wakeley Lake where we were delighted to find a beautiful unmarked pair of Trumpeter Swans. They were a picture in motion as they preened amid blooming Yellow Pond Lilies and trunks of drowned-out trees. Lynn pointed out the drumming of Ruffed Grouse.  We had dinner at Lost Creek Sky Ranch in Luzerne en route home, happy to enjoy some spirits alongside our steaks and fresh whitefish, yum!

Mon., June 1 Au Sable River / Hartwick Pines State Park / Leelanau Peninsula
We woke to rain so were glad we opted for canoeing the previous afternoon. We ventured out despite the drizzle, packing up our things and heading for Hartwick Pines State Park where we could stretch our legs for a hike.  On this Monday of early June we found bus loads containing 100+ second graders also enjoying Hartwick Pines.  The joyful herds of small ones dampened our enthusiasm for walking and birding the main trails so we selected a 3 ½ mile loop through the woods. Voracious mosquitoes met us here so we did not dally!  We photographed wildflowers, smelled the scent of hemlock needles and got some exercise, but birding was just too tough as our stopping time was limited by small biting winged creatures.  One of our favorite flowers adorned the cover of the local field guide – Polygalas or Gay wings. The comforts of Traverse City were calling and we had a date to pick up the final three of our party.  So off we went to enjoy lunch at the Apache Trout Grill, named by a fisherman owner after the first fish to make the Endangered Species List. Ty was able to join us and we enjoyed catching up with him.

Mid-afternoon we were poised at the Traverse City Airport to greet Polly and Ernest who would celebrate their 58th wedding anniversary the next day. We had not clued Polly in that several of her favorite travelers had joined the bunch.  Beth led a chorus of “Hello, Polly, well hello, Polly, its so nice to have you back where you belong….” as a smiling surprised woman came down the ramp.  Our group was merry as we headed to Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula, surrounded on three sides by Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay. 

 

It seemed fitting to stop at Shady Lane Cellars for a wine tasting to celebrate the start of part two of our adventure.  We had fun trying Rieslings and Cabernets and talking to the owners. We then continued on, and soon settled in to lodgings right in the center of Leland at Falling Waters Lodge adjacent to historic Fishtown, a 145 year-old fishing village.  Peg’s sister Jayne Schafer recommended and met us at the Cove for dinner and we had a chance to try their Whitefish and other entrees, as well as smoked Whitefish pate, yum!   Lynn just had to try the local cherry pie.

Tues., June 2 Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
It was a sunny, CRISP day (frost warnings!) as we headed out to explore Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Our first stop was along the shores of Glenn Lake where a Green Heron put on a show. Lynn heard a Black-billed Cuckoo and we were afforded good views of this secretive forest bird.  We stopped at a small lake where we found Common Loons. As it was cold, we decided to keep moving and got our first views of the dunes atop the Empire Bluffs Trail.  Located at the southern part of the park, a wide expanse of lakeshore is visible from the top.  Owen, Ruth and Ty had a long time to soak in the beauty as the birders trailed behind. Invigorated by great views of Indigo Bunting and a perched Ruby-throated Hummingbird, we got into the swing of things. Peg got out her IPOD to invite an Ovenbird in for closer inspection.  A Black-throated Blue Warbler also came in and we heard another cuckoo as well as a distant Pileated Woodpecker.

After the hike we had lunch at Joe’s Friendly Tavern in Empire, known for its burgers and root beer.  We then drove up the winding route of the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, passing through a lush canopy of trees. Our first stop was at an overview of Glenn Lake and from this high perch we could see its famous reflective colors.  We also had great looks of a Chestnut-sided Warbler which perched and sang right above our heads. We continued on through more beautiful forests to top out at a spectacular viewpoint atop the Dunes.We stopped in at the Visitor’s Center where American Goldfinch, Cedar Waxwing and an American Bluebird fed at the edge of a field. 

As was promised, we had time to shop in Glen Arbor where many of the group did some damage at Cherry Republic where we stocked up on everything from cherry salsa to chocolate covered cherries and coconut cherry Boomchunckas – yum!  We found out they have on-line ordering and many of us will be back!  Several of us also did a bit of damage at Becky Thatcher’s jewelry store which features many local stones and lovely work in silver and gold.

Tonight was a very special evening for all of us. We celebrated our friendships and Polly and Ernest’s wedding anniversary at North, a lovely restaurant south of Leland. They gave us a beautiful corner table where we felt tucked into the woods. They had excellent service and delicious food to which we added fun and conversation – a memorable evening. 

Wed., June 3 South Manitou Island by Ferry
After several early mornings everyone enjoyed starting later, in time to catch the 10:00 AM ferry over to South Manitou Island.  We split about half and half on choice of inside and outside seating on the ferry but all had grand views of the coastline as we crossed this sheltered Great Lakes passage. As Lynn says, it looks like the ocean but no salt and no whale blows. After an hour or so we could see the South Manitou Lighthouse which dates from 1871.  

We enjoyed a picnic lunch once ashore, then most of the gang met Michael, our boat captain and guide for local history on the island.  Lynn’s report of the tour: “We boarded an open-back Ford truck from the 1960’s and headed out on a series of roads.  The first stop was a walk through the woods for a view of Florence Lake.  We then toured several abandoned farms and homesteads where a pure strain of Rosen rye was isolated and cultivated at the time of settlement. Michael, grew up in the area and provided lively personal commentary on the schoolhouse, lighthouse, and villages of yore.  He saved time for the group to scale 177 steps up to the top of the lighthouse with its marvelous 360? view.” 

 

Peg, Ty and Richard headed out to hike to the tall Cedar Grove and Shipwreck.  They enjoyed exercise, conversation, photography and some fabulous views of the turquoise, Caribbean- colored waters that rim the island.

The ride back was a bit more sheltered from winds than that going out and we were thankful to enjoy yet another beautiful sunshine day.  Coming back into the harbor we had a Ruddy Turnstone in breeding plumage feeding among gulls on the rock pier.  Tonight was a free night for dinner and most of our group returned to the Cove for a second delightful evening of dining. Our photographers turned out for a brilliant sunset on the lakeshore beach next to our hotel.

Thurs., June 4 Good Harbor Trail  / Whaleback Natural Area
This morning we returned to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to an area known for good birding as the trail passes through a variety of habitat. We were lucky to hear and find Prairie Warblers right at the start, now quite a rare species in Michigan. We had good looks at Yellow-rumped Warblers, American Redstarts and a very tame Blackburnian Warbler along the trail.  The woods were lovely with many tall maples and birches.  We had lunch back in Leland and surprised Ruth with a small birthday celebration – Happy Birthday Ruth!  Nice to celebrate it on the 45th parallel!

At 1:00 PM we met Ann Mason, a local guide and docent with the Leelanau Conservancy, an impressive land trust organization.  We walked a trail atop the Whaleback Natural Area, a glacial moraine deposited 10,000 years ago forming a bluff above Lake Michigan. The hike was uphill and we walked through a carpet of fragrant but invasive Sweet Woodruff.  The Conservancy has a wildflower rescue program to save plants from development but struggles to control plants that thrive in the lush woodlands.  We still found Jack-in-the-Pulpits, Baneberries, and Thimbleberries -- the latter quite rare in Leelanau County.  Richard spotted a Red-headed Woodpecker and we all had looks at Hooded, Black-and-White and Black-throated Blue Warblers.  There was a platform to gather on at the scenic overlook and from here we once again saw a wide expanse of shoreline.

In the late afternoon we drove up to Christmas Cove, a wind-swept beach where we searched for Petoskey stones, a form of fossilized coral.  Bella and the stuffed Moose joined us. We had fun poking through stones looking for beach glass as well, but it was cold and we decided to head for home, having had a wonderful day. Jayne led us home via the scenic route, past historic farms and orchards.  This was a second free night to dine in Leland and many of the group chose the Bluebird restaurant.

Thursday, June 5 Hoodak Dunes Leelanau Conservancy Preserve / Leelanau State Park / Grand Traverse Lighthouse  
Today we journeyed north to the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula, exploring along the way.  We started the day with a hike at Hoodak Dunes, another local preserve.  Here a mile and a half loop trail allowed us to walk through mature birch forests and a series of back dune areas with sumac, maples and extensive shrub habitat. We found Scarlet Tanagers, Indigo Buntings, Hermit Thrushes and American Goldfinches. Best of all were the hundreds, literally hundreds of Pink Lady Slipper orchids. They grew in clusters of a dozen or more and lined the trail on either side – wow!  We finished early so we selected another small preserve to visit, this time on the east side of the peninsula.  Here we walked through a mature, open maple forest that was mesmerizing as light poured through the stately trunks. This time the flower carpet was Forget-Me-Nots. We came back to town on a scenic drive along the lakeshore where century-old cottages provided a sense of summer.  We were enjoying our own real sense of summer as the temperatures had climbed to nearly 70? and we could shed our layers! We had a good lunch in Northport and found dried cherries on sale at the local grocery. 

This afternoon we met another local guide, Sharon Oriel of the Leelanau Conservancy to see one of the newest preserves – to many the crowing jewel.  This group that has been protecting the peninsula, the wetlands and farmlands since 1988 with a mission is to conserve the land, water and scenic character of Leelanau County.  This particular property lies adjacent to land with a conservation easement and then the State Park insuring that the entire tip of the Leelanau Peninsula is protected in perpetuity.  Sharon shared maps, aerial photographs and history of the preserve. We walked through the open meadows of a former farm, and then came to a geologic feature of note – a shoreline of previous higher water lake level from Pleistocene glacial times. Along the way we found Cedar Waxwings,Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Chestnut-sided Warblers and a Porcupine, resting in place wedged in the canopy of a tree.  Ann was an excellent teacher and showed us glacial erratics, native wildflowers, and a fascinating example of an ash and maple tree that had grown entwined.

We then visited Grand Traverse Lighthouse in Leelanau State Park, one of the peninsula’s signatures.  The lighthouse was built in 1858 to mark the entry into Grand Traverse Bay.  We had hopes of finding Piping Plovers that often nest here, but Lake Michigan is quite high this year and available nesting areas are under water.  The birds had not been seen this year so we gave up and headed south.  We did not want to miss one of Jayne’s suggestions, Fisher’s Happy Hour Tavern so we stopped for a cold beer and conversation.  This is a beautiful old bar and the food looked quite good, but we had to save ourselves for an outstanding final dinner at a country inn near Burdickville. Ernest pronounced this the best meal of the trip and all were in agreement.  Nice to end on such a fine note but we hated to say our good-byes.

Sat., June 6 Departures  - Until the Next Adventure!
We had a leisurely morning with flights out after Noon, content to walk around Leland, mail our cherries and other things home, print boarding passes at the library, etc.  Those driving took off early, and Peg and Lynn stayed on for an extra day visiting Peg’s family. Until the next adventure calls….

 

Photo credits
All photos by Peg Abbott.

 

 

 

 

Close This Window