Michigan's Upper Peninsula
Geology and Natural History
July/August 2003 - Trip Report

Thursday, July 24 Arrival in Houghton/Hancock.
After Peg's mom happily finished her TWO pound lobster birthday dinner in Traverse City, she and Peg rested for the night and got an early start to Marquette, where they met up with the Kotlers and Cummings for the final jaunt into Houghton. Mary Jane, Bert and Marcyes met those arriving on earlier flights to enjoy time combing a wilderness beach for local rock samples, including agates, greenstone and polished chunks of ancient lava. They also touring a copper recycling plant, and, fortified themselves with soda fountain treats at the drugstore in Laurium, Bert's first great ice-cream find. Our hotel was right on the waterfront of Portage Lake, and we met on the porch for introductions and reunions. Then we were off to the first of Mary Jane's wonderful suggestions, driving via a scenic back road through lush forests to the edge of Lake Superior. Here Mary Jane the stamp mill process as we looked off to the huge abandoned stack. They welcomed us at a great country restaurant here at Freida. With bellies full of delicious home-cooked food we watched an incredible sunset over the lake - a great start to the trip!

Friday, July 25 Keweenaw Peninsula / Copper Harbor
This morning we met up with Copper Harbor resident Jim Rooks, long time colleague of Mary Jane's and one of only 50 residents who brave winter's isolation and cold at the tip of the peninsula. Instrumental in preserving Estivant Pines, named for its original French settler, Jim was obviously at home and in love with these woods. We walked together into the stately grove, his deep love and knowledge pouring through each stop to investigate a plant or root or rock. Three hundred fifty year old White Pines are the star attraction here, joined by ancient red oak with an understory of balsam, sugar maple and other hardwoods. We found Pipsissiwa, Clitonia, Lady and Interrupted ferns, small spiky orchids, a lone Hemlock tree and much, much more. Time passed very quickly. Peg and Dennis and Elizabeth straggled behind to bird, catching a great mixed flock of warblers high in the canopy of pines. Magnolia, Myrtle (yellow-rumped), Chestnut-sided and Black-throated Green were busy feeding, while a Northern Parula remained elusive to our keen eyes. Jim found a feather left behind by an earlier season visit of a Great Gray Owl. We rejoined the rest of our group, who opted for time to visit historic Fort Wilkins where they were delighted with the living history demonstrations and interpretation. On a quiet cove of the protected harbor we enjoyed some great sandwiches from Victoria's Kitchen and fresh cherries Lee and Peg brought - just picked in Grand Traverse Bay. After lunch we drove up Brockway Mountain Drive, stopping at several overlooks before reaching the grand view of the very spine of the Keweenaw Fault. Richly clad in vegetation and dotted with lakes, several ridges ran parallel before us adjacent to Lake Superior's pebble-clad shore. Down the coast, we found granite-eroded sands of the Canadian Shield, picturesque coves, offshore rocks, Herring and Ring-billed Gulls resting, and a pair of Ravens flying by. White-tailed deer watched us several times from the brush. We stopped at the Jam Pot, a great store run by local monks. Several snacked and we loaded up with goodies for tomorrow's lunch. At Calumet we peeked into the local Theater/Opera House (circa 1900) built of gorgeous Jacobsville red sandstone. Peg, Pat and Ruth and Owen couldn't resist returning for a concert, beautifully performed by Finnish students. We were impressed with their fresh talent, and with the marvelous acoustics of this historic treasure. On future journeys we hope to spend more time here, as the newly established National Historic Area develops.

Saturday, July 26 Sturgeon River / Jasper Knob / Picture Rocks National Lakeshore
This day began with a thrill - a tour down INTO the old Quincy Mine. What a first hand experience of the rigors of mining life! Donning hard hats and jackets to keep warm, we rode a tram 300 feet down into the mine. Even with many worldwide travel experiences in such a rich life, Pat was particularly impressed to be so far underground. Janet kept commenting on the immense and impenetrable dark, and all agreed it was a remarkable experience. Back in bright daylight, we moved on with a day to continue this delightful "rock infusion". At the Sturgeon River Slough we added some birding, but it was mid-day and quiet, and the highlight was seeing an American Bittern, a Rusty Blackbird and Becky's find of a deer with her fawns. Mary Jane described several of the plants; we were quite taken with the fragrant wild chamomile. The statue of Father Baraga, well loved by native people in this area was impressive. We then continued east, stopping for a picnic on a bluff overlooking Lake Superior. Ruth helped us each day with the spread. Today Nancy raved about the brandy-soaked fruit breads from yesterday's stop at the Jam Pot. They also make a great Jalapeno Pepper Jelly, which we enjoyed on crackers with Michigan sharp Cheddar cheese. Such a life - we would not lose any weight this week. Janet, our adventurer, figured out how to work the huge iron pumps and delivered us fresh clear water. Les and Lee looked quite content dining and visiting on this beautiful day. On to our Lakeside accommodations in Munising, where we found Common Loon and their young were just off shore. Tonight's treat was the grand finale on our day's rock theme - a sunset cruise at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The captain gave a lively commentary, all while watching a strong storm cell brewing to the west. We marveled at the brilliant colors and pattern of the iron-stained sandstone as we navigated very close to the tall cliffs and natural arches. Several posed for pictures, and Ruth and others got their binoculars trained on an acrobatic Peregrine Falcon chasing robins and scattering gulls above the cliffs. Dennis first spotted a spectacular horizontal sheet of lightning creating a brilliant band between water and sky. We got back to the dock and our vans just as it started to sprinkle, and tucked into our rooms as a huge thunder boom sounded and the storm rolled on in. Nancy and Les later exclaimed at our phenomenal luck with weather.

Sunday, July 27 Tahquamenon Falls / Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum / Whitefish Point Bird Observatory
A long and wonderful day, from Munising to Grand Marais..

We had an amazing breakfast, the Sunday special at a local bar - imagine 7:00 am and here's roast beef, chicken, biscuits and gravy, corned beef hash and more! Our lawyer, Owen, quickly stated (looking over his full plate) "such buffets should be outlawed". On to Tahquamenon Falls, and what a banner blue-sky day we had for this. What a beautiful job they have done to make the falls accessible at this lushly forested State Park. We all marveled at the huge sugar maple and yellow birch, balsam fir and other stately trees in the old growth forest we walked through to our first overlook. On wide paths we could wander and arch our necks looking for songbirds amidst the patterned light spray of leaves. Becky spotted a family of Common Merganser splashing below the falls and Dennis a Spotted Sandpiper feeding precariously close to the edge. Lee wandered back at her own pace, enjoying the memories of her family jaunt here long ago. Ruth and Owen took off on a beautiful four-mile hike that closely followed the river running between the Lower and Upper Falls. We drove around to meet them at the Lower Falls with yet another good picnic - big trays of sandwich fixings from Subway we could assemble on the spot. After lunch we continued north to the tip of Whitefish Point, where Michigan Audubon Society and partners seasonally operate the Whitefish Point Bird Observatory. While few birds use the site mid-summer, we enjoyed learning about the research and walking out to the point to see gulls, terns, and the first returning shorebirds. Dennis and Len (in shorts) were covered with black flies hanging near the warm sands - they became popular models, as was Janet, for Mary Jane's camera. While here we also took in the very well done Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. Becky was really moved by the film on the Edmund Fitzgerald and Nancy and Les commented on the detail in the exhibits - so lifelike in their graphic portrayal of danger and destruction. With map-readers Len and Owen urging them on, Peg and Mary Jane opted to return the adventurous route along a dirt road paralleling Lake Superior over to Grand Marais. "Just like the old corduroy (timber) roads" Lee gasped between bumps, "rattled my teeth all the way.". An arching canopy of trees, few other cars, great views of wild beaches and a picturesque cove with sailboats moored at Grand Marais - what more could you ask for? Dinner - we dined at the local brew pub (nice cherry-wheat ale.). Several tried the very fresh and delicious Whitefish, while Janet and others opted for pizza. Bert led the pack to Gilbert's (Michigan specialty) ICE CREAM. We had to put Dennis in the front seat because of his GIANT helping of Moose Tracks. Elizabeth could not stop laughing as they emerged from the store - "they emptied the bucket for him!". We watched for real moose (no luck) and grouse (no luck) no dirt roads through the forest that took us home. We ducked into the parking lot just before sunset to end a full but delightful day.

Monday, July 28 Seney National Wildlife Refuge
We looked forward to a great day at the wildlife refuge and it certainly was. Just outside the main part of the refuge we stopped for great scope views of a pair of Trumpeter Swans - what magnificent birds. Birding Magazine had just done a piece on the pros and cons of this reintroduction, so it was very interesting to learn more about the issue. The birds are thriving here and we saw many pair throughout the day with young. We also had great looks at a Black-billed Cuckoo in the scope, a treat for many. Ponds by the Visitor Center were quiet, but we enjoyed a walk around the lake and through the woods. We opted for our picnic right there on the porch of the Visitor's Center - novel set up using a rock wall for a serving table. Lee, Peg's mom, just shook her head with a big grin saying, "she always finds a way.." It was a hot day and it was good to be in the shade with such a pretty view. The loop road held the most action for us. We got great looks at some Long-billed Dowitcher at close range, a peek at some Wood Duck, great views of Osprey and Bald Eagle and a good array of waterfowl. Mid-afternoon we headed on south to our lakeshore accommodations at Manistique. Dinner held a bit of local color, should we say. Not much was open on a Monday night so they fit us in at a bar and restaurant known for their walleye and whitefish. It was delicious when it came. Let's just say we had time to chat and to water our taste buds!

Tuesday, July 29 Garden Peninsula / Fayette State Historic Park
We had breakfast at the Emerald City Espresso - the look on the local proprietor's face as 15 of us walked in at opening was priceless. He gave us word puzzle placemats to occupy our minds while he cooked, soon everyone was finding food words up down and diagonal and crayoning their way from LA to New York. Becky downed her homemade blueberry pancakes in style while Owen stacked his homemade bread high above a truck driver's portion of sausage and eggs. Thus renewed, we headed for the Garden Peninsula, a lush forested area surrounded on three sides by Lake Michigan, moderating the climate. Combined with fertile soils it attracted early settlers for farming. We threaded our way through Black Angus cows and apple orchards down to Fayette State Park, a well-preserved historic site depicting life in an iron smelting company town. We had a short, guided tour by the local curator, and then wandered at our leisure. A male Indigo Bunting put on quite a show from the trees, and we once again got into a mixed flock, dispersing families of birds feeding voraciously before the journey south. Several of us walked around the point, Pat stopping to take in the look and feel of a lonely bell sounding and marking the channel. Bert tested the strength of the second story dance floor. Ruth and Owen urged us on to an overlook trail where views back on the quiet town were spectacular. Mary Jane dispelled the myth of this clear and beautiful day, describing in full the bustling life dense with smoke in the heart of the smelting days.. Sooty and loud - what a contrast to our quiet time this day in this White Cedar woodland.. We looked at hundred pound "pigs" of iron, and walked through the ovens and back up the hill. Peg and Pat shared great looks at a Catbird by the shore, and a Blue-headed Vireo put on a good show by the parking lot. We had lunch at a lakeside pavilion, dodging a few minutes of rain. Mary Jane gave a grand synopsis of several billion years of Earth History, using helpful handouts. We'd heard bits and pieces of the story, so it was now time to put it all together. We then crossed the peninsula to Portage Bay, a lovely remote campground on the shore of Lake Michigan. Lee rested with a full view of the beach, Les chose to take a snooze, and the rest of us walked a loop trail. Ruth and Mary Jane could not get over the profusion of Wild Lake Iris, a rare plant in Michigan doing very well here. We saw orchids and oak fern, harebells and lobelia. At one time this was an interpretive trail for Ojibiway Indian plant usage, but alas, there were no booklets for us and we contented ourselves with watching Black-capped Chickadees, Red-breasted Nuthatches, American Redstart and Killdeer along the way. We enjoyed dinner at the Three-Mile Supper Club with scrumptious fisherman's platters of walleye, perch and whitefish, and of course for desert - ICE CREAM.

Wednesday, July 30 Stonington Peninsula / Marquette
We woke to the sounds of Song Sparrow and Eastern Towhee. Elizabeth was up first, greeting the day on a walk along Lake Michigan's shore on the quiet cove of our hotel. We went back to Emerald City and then headed out to a spot remote even by Upper Peninsula standards - the Stonington Peninsula, and in particular, Peninsula Point. En route we watched nesting Osprey and a pair of Sandhill Cranes feeding in a farm field. The point is known for congregations of migrating monarch butterflies as well as migrant songbirds - it did not disappoint us today! Our first great bird was a Blue Grosbeak, teed up on shrub and putting on a good show. The western part of the group enjoyed antics of a family of Blue Jay. We could see Len engrossed in watching something and yeah - we finally hit the jackpot in our bird quest - wow! A campground water pump was the magnet. At it's continuous drip we watched great bathing festivities of bright plumaged Black-and-white, Chestnut-sided, American Redstart, Myrtle, and Yellow Warblers. In the nearby trees we watched Indigo Bunting and had a great look at a Mourning Warbler, an Eastern Kingbird, and a very tame Downy Woodpecker. Ruth spotted a boldly pattered male Song Sparrow. Mary Jane was gleefully picking up fossils to show us, Silurian aged brachiopods and other creatures etched in limestone, now washed by waves at the point. Several of us climbed up to the porch of the lighthouse for views of the Minnesota Shoal light, a gull and Double-crested Cormorant rookery offshore and several outlying islands. Elizabeth spotted a big ore freighter making its way across from Escanaba. We then drove to a former resort dating from the days of steamer travel. Here a trail wound under huge hemlock that towered above us. Mary Jane spotted and showed us oak fern, turkey-tail fungus and mahogany shelf fungus, among the treasures of the underworld. Lee posed by the lush red berries of Elderberry and Dennis spotted an elegant male Black-throated Green Warbler in the dense canopy above. Les and Nancy set a stiff pace, our most admired senior group member finishing well ahead of the rest of us. Janet read us interpretive signs that cast history of the resort era right before our eyes. Lunch planned "by the falls" turned out to not have much of a falls due to the recent drought. Huge trees protected us from a light rain, which held off until we were back in the car, headed for north on Highway 41 where off the busy highway Mary Jane signaled a stop - 3.5 billion year old pillow lava. Ruth found a great specimen for the garden - is this the start of a burgeoning collection Owen? On to the Iron Museum in Negaunee to see a slide show on the life and times of the Iron days. Les read aloud the words "here was iron enough for all of time".. These high quality deposits in Michigan were vitally important to the nation and its hungry need for steel. Some of us rallied forth this evening, after settling in to our rooms in Marquette, to the great Upfront Café in downtown Marquette. Janet and Lee raved about the food, and at the impressive restoration efforts on this beautiful old brick building.

Thursday, July 31 Sugarloaf Mountain / Presque Isle State Park / Life of the Bog
Peg took a wrong turn this morning near Presque Isle State Park, and it turned out to be perfect timing for us to see them unloading one of the huge oar carriers. Pat and Ruth were excited to see the process. Peg even hauled out the scope so we could watch in detail as they transferred huge quantities of iron in pellet form. Mary Jane, Peg and the intrepid Pat crept into the undersides of the massive oar dock, donning hardhats to be official to collect some of the pellets for all to see. On our hike up Sugarloaf Mountain, Bert and Owen set the pace. Nancy and Les opted out of the steeper section, and were treated to very close views and time spent with a deer does and her two fawns as they sat quietly on a bench in the forest. The rest of us followed Mary Jane and her squeals of delight over finding familiar wildflowers, fungi, granite rocks laced with dikes. Despite predictions of rain, we had GRAND vistas all around. What a spectacular spot - views out to Lake Superior, the ancient Huron Mountains and all of the Marquette harbor. The birders had a productive morning with lots of warblers, Cedar Waxwings and finally, great views of our much sought after Pileated Woodpecker. From here we visited Jasper Knob, known for its colorful wildly banded rock. This is a spot we would have NEVER found - once again thanks to Mary Jane. Ruth had more rock specimens in the blink of an eye, as did Peg, while Len picked warm blueberries in the sun. A pair of Merlin called and circled, then perched overhead while we had a grand time admiring this amazing outcrop of jaspellite. Bert and Mary Jane seemed so happy to return here - true U.P. aficionados these two! And speaking of U.P. flavor-it was our day to try pasties at Mrs. T's. Lee and Mary Jane demonstrated pouring catsup over the great crusts that encompassed a big load of potatoes, onions and meat. These miner's delights brought mixed reviews but as Pat said, "while in the U.P., one simply ha to try one'! We offered some shopping time in downtown Marquette and then headed home. Dennis and Elizabeth were celebrating their 10^th wedding anniversary and we had a great time at dinner celebrating that and Lee's birthday and our great trip. We ate at the North Woods Supper Club; Janet giving out one of her great "ooh's" when we walked in to see our table the waterfall view, with robins bathing and flowers in bloom. Ruth entertained us with tales of camping in Michigan early on with their kids in tow, Becky and Len shared photos of an Alaska trip the previous June with Peg, and as ever, a good time was had by all. The prime rib was especially good.

Friday, August 1 Departures
We had a little adventure this morning, almost taking off for the old airport and then dashing to the further away NEW airport in Marquette. Bert led us to a great place for breakfast, where Pat had a round of her favorite western breakfast - biscuits and gravy. Marcyes fixed us care packages to go for our airplane rides, and was off with those flying out of Houghton. All through the trip her kindness and attention to detail was much appreciated by all. Here's to the next adventure!

Close This Window