Michigan's Upper Peninsula
Geology and Natural History
August 2004 - Trip Report

Tues., August 10 Arrival in Houghton / Seaman’s Mineral Museum / Welcome Dinner
Rain arrived with us to the Keewanaw Peninsula. After nearly a month’s absence from this area, it came down in sheets this day! Many participants were surprised by how easy it was to manage arrival at the Houghton airport, which has only one small building and just a sliding metal shelf for luggage pick-up. This simplicity is typical of the Upper Peninsula, which we’d all soon learn to call the “U.P.” Cathy, who hails from the Washington, D.C. area, laughed when Peg’s complained about traffic while stopped for a left-hand turn; Houghton traffic was not quite her idea of city driving!

We had planned a beach walk, but with the heavy rain the Seaman’s Mineral Museum on the campus of Michigan Tech seemed like the best place to begin. This museum houses a spectacular collection of gems and minerals in well-lit cases. Mary Jane Dockeray, our local guide, was so enthusiastic it was contagious; she welcomed questions as we tried to sort out these fine samples that spanned the geologic ages. Our welcome wine and cheese party also had to be moved inside; but Peg’s mom, Lee, and Mary Jane set out a great spread, and we enjoyed the time to get acquainted. Dinner was at the Northland Grille and Pub, a super restaurant in neighboring Hancock where options included wild game, fresh Whitefish, and more.

Wed., August 11 Keewanaw Peninsula / Copper Harbor / Estivant Pines / Calumet

The rain continued through our first night and for this entire day, but didn’t dampen our enthusiasm too much -- particularly in the morning, which we spent with Jim Rooks, a long-time colleague of Mary Jane’s. Jim is a fine local naturalist whose love of the North Woods was evident in every word he uttered as we explored the forest. Our drive to meet Jim traversed dense woods of birch, maple, and pine that in places formed a closed canopy over Highway 41. As we entered the small village of Copper Harbor (perched at the end of the peninsula where the shelter of dense woods was welcome!) we could see white caps and rolling waves on Lake Superior.

Jess and Kay opted out of the wet walk and spent the morning exploring the small town and enjoying an Irish coffee, the perfect drink on a wet day. The rest of us took the maze of dirt roads through lands owned by International Paper Company to the grove of trees named for the early French settler who owned it, Estivant.

Here we walked a mile-and-a-half loop trail, looking for orchids (we found four species!), plants of the forest floor, and a few hearty birds (Black-throated Blue Warbler and Golden-crowned Kinglet). The towering, aged pines were remarkable: a few grandfather trees, 300 to 500 years old, remained in the tract, joined by several hundred trees about 200 to 300 years old. We had to lean far back to take in the view of their crowns. Although the huge White Pine still define the forest, the sugar maples and Eastern White Cedar growing around the old giants made it clear that time and natural succession were making their marks. Rain continued as we walked, but our attention was on the magic of place and Jim, who lovingly described the details of this trail as if it were his garden.

On the way back to town, several of us stopped by a small lake, where an elegant Common Loon appeared oblivious to the torrent and a family of River Otter (an adult and two young) frolicked on the far bank. Jim says he sees River Otter only about every two years, often here at the mouth of the Fanny Hoe River; so we were quite lucky, aided probably by mist and rain. Our group met at the Harbor House in Copper Harbor, which provided lunch in a warm and cheery refuge with a view of Lake Superior. Several of the group tried fresh Lake Trout, while others chose to sample their German specialties. Before leaving the town, we took time to visit Jim and his wife’s nature store and bookshop and a local mineral shop recommended by Bert and Mary Jane.

Then we drove south to the new National Park Service historic area centered in Calumet. Cathy wandered off to the park’s handsome administration building, built of local stone, and learned of plans (pending federal funding) for a Visitor’s Center and exhibits. Several of us visited the Copper Museum, one of the many local cooperating partners in the historic district. We particularly enjoyed the film on early life and mining in the Keewanaw. We took a quick peek at the finery of the circa 1900 opera house in Calumet; Joan and Margaret claiming box office seats for our viewing. Back at the hotel, several went right for the hot shower or the swimming pool, while others lingered over a good dinner at the Library Restaurant in historic Houghton.

Thurs., August 12 Quincy Mine / Brockway Mountain Drive / Hunter’s Point

A beautiful pink sunrise greeted us with the promise of a brighter day, and Herring Gulls and Great Blue Heron drifted up the canal at dawn. We had not intended to make two trips up the Keewanaw, but with the sunshine we decided to spend some time on the high ridge of Brockway Mountain Drive.

But before we went up, we went down – WAY down into the Quincy Mine. After our guide gave a brief introduction and discussed some of the immense machinery used during the mine’s heyday, we donned hard hats and warm coats and proceeded by tram into the bowels of the earth. There, a student from Michigan Tech described in detail the work of a miner, even turning on a vintage jackhammer so we could experience the noise. He also turned off the light to show us this realm illuminated only by a miner’s candle. We learned of the system of indentured labor, where a 12- to 17-year-old boy could work with his father for 25 cents a day. We also learned how the heavy carts, fully loaded with ore, had to be pushed to the end of each “drift,” or side tunnel, by hand. Many in the group commented that they’d never take a metal object for granted again; one said, “this puts recycling in a whole new perspective!”

To offset the perspective of old mining techniques, Mary Jane had arranged a visit for us to a modern mining-related industry, a copper recycling business. We had a short but fascinating tour; the discussion on world trade (particularly China and its currently insatiable need for metals as they modernize) was a real eye-opener. No longer can the U.P. exist in splendid isolation, away from the hubbub of the world economy….

We had lunch at an old-fashioned soda fountain, where Lee had tears in her eyes remembering high-school days. “It looks exactly like where I’d go with my friends!” she said. Continuing on, we took the fork in the road that climbed the ridge and were overjoyed with the views from the top. From the scenic overlook on Brockway Mountain Drive we had a fine view of Isle Royal, some 40-plus miles away across Lake Superior. Cynthia spotted an Indigo Bunting, and Jess stirred up quite a few more by walking down the road. We also saw several species of sparrows and a good number of wildflowers in bloom. Ripe raspberries were a treat, and several elected to stretch their legs as they walked down the road, with fine views to either side. Mary Jane pointed out the key features of the Keewanaw Fault and explained its dip and relationship to Isle Royal. Part of this geology jigsaw puzzle was coming together!

Our final walk of the day was at Copper Harbor, where we walked to the very tip at Hunter’s Point, the focus of a local conservation effort. Jim Rooks described warbler fall-outs here: during spring migrations he’d seen as many as 8,000 birds flying from Hunter’s Point out to another small island. We saw only a few warblers, but had great looks at American Redstart, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, and Orange-crowned Warbler. Joan and Margaret were the first to the point, waving to Lee, George, and Polly as they enjoyed their own happy hour at the Harbor House. Several of the group wanted to eat right away, so we ventured up the hill to the inviting, rustic log dining room of the Keewanaw Mountain Lodge. Others had some ice cream to tide them over and returned to our hotel in Houghton.

Fri., August 13 Sturgeon River / Pasties at Mrs. T’s / Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

This morning we headed south to explore one of Michigan’s most remote and scenic places, the Sturgeon River Gorge. Taking back roads, we passed a number of small working farms, many of the owners of which were of Finnish origin. We ventured off onto dirt roads that wound through lovely forests of mixed birch and conifer, with maples and other hardwood trees as an understory. Part of our group elected to hike down to the Sturgeon River Falls. Deep in the gorge itself, the tannin-colored falls descend a lively path through some gorgeous, resistant rock layers. Tall trees lined our path, evidenced by our sore necks as we searched for Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Red-eyed Vireo, Black-throated Green Warbler, and other canopy species. The rest of our group walked at the rim of the gorge to a lovely overlook. There they had a commanding view of the river blow and of acres and acres of old-growth forest, untouched for centuries – quite rare in this land of the lumberjack!

From here we headed east, checking out the information booth about the project to reintroduce Moose to the U.P. Over 350 moose now live here, and the population is increasing. The animals were brought over from nearby Canada in helicopter slings! We drove more back roads hoping to find some, but the warm day likely drove them deep into the trees, so we had no luck. Besides, hungry stomachs were calling, so Bert and Mary Jane headed on to procure the traditional favorite lunch of the U.P.’s Cornish miners, pasties. Mrs. T’s it had to be, and they were quite a hit! We ate by Teal Lake, enjoying the sun and view of the lake.

We then drove on to our accommodations on the lake at the Sunset Motel. Ernest had flown into Marquette to meet us and to keep his Polly in line! The scenery on this stretch of road, which paralleled the shore of Lake Superior, was some of the best of the trip, including a stop at the ancient beds of fossil stromatilites. After we settled in, several watched a family of Common Mergansers in the Bay and noisy Blue Jay in the trees of the lakeside park.

Our scheduled time for the Pictured Rocks boat cruise had been unexpectedly moved up, so we wolfed down our dinners at the Dogpatch and hurried onto the ship for the sunset tour. What a pleasure to take in so much beauty – the matrix of color on the ancient sandstone creating patterns a weaver would envy. The captain had a great sense of humor and caught us with a few tall tales, but also filled us in on the geology and the local history of the region. During the two-hour cruise many of us were up on deck with the wind in our hair, so we all slept well this night!

Sat., August 14 Tahquamenon Falls / Whitefish Point Bird Observatory / Shipwreck Museum

Today we traveled east and then north, first to the lovely state park at Tahquamenon Falls, and then to the remote peninsula of Whitefish Point. Peg spotted a Broad-winged Hawk sitting atop a Black Spruce in one of the bogs along highway M-28. We got the scope on it and watched it hunting, dropping down on a small mammal, and then eating it. Then it flew to another, larger perch, where it wiped its bill and began searching for the next meal.

We arrived at the popular Upper Falls before the crowds did and enjoyed a walk in the mature forests of Yellow Birch, American Beech, and Hemlock. Mary Jane pointed out ferns and flowers on the way to the first viewpoint. We could hear the falls long before we saw them. A huge volume of water pours over the sandstone ledge here; by volume, these falls are the second largest east of the Rockies. George marveled at the amber stripes made by tannin-rich waters. Polly braved the 75-plus steps down to the brink, where we all posed for photos and watched Cedar Waxwings feed like swallows above us.

Cynthia led off with the hikers, who walked a beautiful trail four miles (or more they insist!) between the Upper and Lower Falls. Along the way, they intercepted a flock of birds that included American Redstart, Blackburnian Warbler, Eastern Towhee, and more. The rest of our flock ambled through lush forests, watching Red Squirrel and Eastern Chipmunk and admiring the Pileated Woodpeckers’ powerful work on several large dead trees.

After a great lunch with lots of fresh food, we drove further up the peninsula to the end of Whitefish Point. While the birds were disappointingly quiet, we enjoyed walking the beach to look for agates and touring the impressive Shipwreck Museum. Mary Ellen was really taken with the sensitive way the museum portrayed the loss of so many men and ships.

Most were not up for further exploring, so we shelved our plans to trace the lake edge over to Grand Marais. Instead, we headed back through Newberry, where half the group had a great time dining at Timber Charlie’s. Their laughter caught the waitress’ attention, particularly when Joan and Margaret, trying to order a hamburger from the smaller portion (Wimpy) side of the menu, decided to split a “wimpy lumberjack.” The rest of our group returned to Munising and dined amid the delightful log and stone ambiance of the Brownstone Inn.

Sun., August 15 Munising Falls / Seney National Wildlife Refuge

A few of our group ventured out early to Munising Falls, a lovely narrow waterfall carving through colorful sandstone about a mile away from our motel. Here, they spotted Evening Grosbeaks in the tall conifers of the parking area. After indulging in the Sunday brunch -- complete with fresh strawberries, biscuits and gravy, and homemade corned-beef hash -- we packed up our suitcases and headed east and south to Seney National Wildlife Refuge. Our final destination today was the northern shore of Lake Michigan.

This was a favorite day for the birders. We turned south into a back road of the refuge, hoping to drive all the way through, and got into some flocks of small birds right away: Chipping and White-throated Sparrow, Black-capped Chickadee, Cedar Waxwing, Yellow-rumped Warbler, and more. Joan spotted a Black-and-white Warbler feeding headfirst down the trunk of a young Jack Pine. By one of the main ditches we had a good show by a Belted Kingfisher, and Jess spotted an Eastern Kingbird catching flies in a young grove of Quaking Aspen and Red Pine. It was a gorgeous blue-sky day, with a nice cool breeze and very few insects as we walked further inside the refuge on a dike that paralleled one of the 21 ponds managed to encourage wildlife. Late summer wildflowers lined the trail, including Jo Pye Weed, St. John’s Wort, Wild Bergamot, and a variety of sunflowers. Butterflies darted about; a Monarch and an Artimas Fritillary pausing long enough for identification. A family of Trumpeter Swan graced the pond, feeding intently on pondweeds in the shallow, rich waters. Black Duck, Canada Goose, Pied-billed Grebe, and Great Blue Heron were among our other finds here.

After a lovely picnic lunch in the shade of trees lining the Manistique River by the old CCC camp, we went to the refuge’s Visitors Center to see the film and exhibits. Just into the seven-mile March Loop drive, Cathy spotted a pair of Sandhill Crane. As they fed on invertebrates in an area of short sedges, we examined their fine plumage – painted with iron-rich clay, it appeared to be mottled rust and gray. It was a treat to see these elegant birds, perhaps the oldest living species in today’s avian realm.

Driving the loop with stops to get out the scope, we saw Bald Eagle, Northern Harrier, an Osprey on its nest and several more in flight, some distant Ring-necked Ducks, and many Caspian Tern. We stopped counting Trumpeter Swans at 80 – and watched them preen, feed, tend their young, and exercise their wings. Lesser Yellowlegs were here to rest up on their return from the Arctic.

We found a family of Eastern Bluebirds just fledged, and watched the young hurl themselves from pine to pine, begging from parents that diligently tended them. A Hairy Woodpecker came up beside one of the young, and it begged from her as well. “Oh, I wish I had my good camera for that!” Cynthia said. A family of Pine Warbler fed young above them; later, by the Loon Observation Deck we saw a hearty, windblown White-throated Sparrow fledgling ardently swim to shore having found itself too far from land on an early flight. We saw two groups of Common Loon, much to Kaye’s delight. The second pair had a young chick they fed and keep close by – a fuzzy gray baby with classic loon form but not yet the elegant plumage. Before the ride to Manistique, several of the group fortified themselves with Jilbert’s ice cream. We enjoyed dinner at the Elkhorn Station, where Yellow Perch and fresh Whitefish won great reviews.

Mon., August 16 Garden Peninsula / Fayette Historical State Park
Today we ventured down the scenic Garden Peninsula, named for its mild climate -- a result of being surrounded on three sides by Lake Michigan. We stopped for fresh cherries at a fruit stand then continued to Fayette Historical State Park, site of an early iron smelter. After seeing the pigs of iron and the works of the smelter with Mary Jane, we fanned out to explore. Some wanted to bird and were rewarded with good looks at Cedar Waxwing, Black-throated Green Warbler, Song Sparrow, and more. Others wanted to hike, and enjoyed the longer loop trail of the park. Several wandered between buildings, investigating the period furniture, company store, and outbuildings. Mary Jane tried repeatedly to convince us how hard life was here when it was a smelter town, but enjoying our picnic on the quiet harbor with sailboats moored on the pier, it was hard to imagine the smoke, soot, and grime of the past.

After lunch we went northwest to the Nahma Peninsula, a sort of sleepy resort area. We walked a boardwalk trail in the marshland, just as light rain began. Birds were once again quiet, but we had a fine display of wildflowers, including several new, marsh-loving species. The road into our chosen dinner spot had a bold sign, “ROAD CLOSED,” but we persevered around a detour and found our way to a very quaint inn, with delightful food and a few astonished stares when we walked in with a group of 14!

Tues., August 17 Stonington Peninsula / the Iron Industry Museum / Marquette

This morning we drove west and, before looping around to the north, explored the Stonington Peninsula, another of those that hang down into Lake Michigan. At a state recreation area we walked a beautiful trail through old-growth forests, finding Indian Pipes, a host of ferns and fungi, other treasures of the forest floor, and an Ovenbird. We craned our necks to sight warblers and vireos, then turned to easier views of several nearby White-tailed Deer.

Driving the length of the peninsula, we found another pair of Sandhill Crane, quite elegant as they grazed in the fields. An Osprey chick begged from its now wobbly stick nest – judging from its size, it would soon fledge. At the light at the end of the peninsula, our attention was split between fossil hunting and birding. Several times during our picnic lunch a Cooper’s Hawk flew right overhead -- causing commotion among the resident sparrows and Dark-eyed Juncos, and even prompting the flock of Lesser Yellowlegs that had been feeding offshore into flight. In the marshy area just inland, among several standing dead trees, we had glimpses of a Pileated Woodpecker and watched a family of very noisy Sharp-shinned Hawks.

After lunch we drove north, discussing forestry issues and logging history en route. We arrived at our lovely, historic accommodations in downtown Marquette in time for some shopping, strolling past the historic houses of the lumber and mining barons. Everyone had a chance to choose a restaurant that suited their tastes: several found an Irish Pub with an outside deck, some chose a brewpub with a view of the lake, and Polly, Ernest, and Peg had a leisurely cocktail hour on the sixth floor of the hotel with view of the town and lake. Marquette is an interesting town, and all enjoyed a bit of time to explore.

Wed., August 18 Sugarloaf Mountain / Ore Boats / the Iron Industry Museum
This morning we wanted to see the wilder side of Marquette, choosing a great walk up to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain. Everyone was glad to keep Mary Jane talking on the way up, as they could catch their breath on the landings between the flights of stairs. We found primitive plants, learned ways to tell various maples apart, and saw a magnificent example of rock emplaced as a dike. From the top we had great views of several offshore islands, a number of key rock formations (which we now recognized!), and -- best of all – a pair of Bald Eagle, oblivious to our treetop viewing platform. One flew up into a roost tree from the shore, joining its mate – likely it was taking a rest after nesting season, though we heard no begging young. We also had good looks at Nashville Warbler, Blue-headed Vireo, and a few other secretive songbirds. Several of our group needed a rest on the way home, but all felt proud that they had climbed Sugarloaf.

From here we went to find an ore boat and, as luck would have it, we found one loading. Mary Jane grabbed a hard hat, entered the secured area, and found us samples of pelleted iron – the state of the art in Michigan’s industry today. Downtown, we checked out the elaborate courthouse featured in the filming of a local novel, Anatomy of a Murder. Photos with the full-sized cow at Jilbert’s Dairy seemed in order after our weekly consumption of ice cream, so we made a stop to see how our favorite food item was crafted. And, as Betty was longing for one last pasty, we found a lunch spot accordingly, and enjoyed the porch before a gale-force wind evicted us!

On to the Iron Industry Museum, with its wonderful dioramas and a “walk through time” that displayed turn-of-the-century history. Rich ore from Michigan helped the country’s fledgling steel industry, a real legacy of the U.P. Jess and Cynthia finished early and did some birding, finding a secretive Green Heron hunched down in a pond behind the museum.

Our final dinner was at one of Mary Jane and Bert’s favorite restaurants, the Northwoods Supper Club where we faced a choice between Prime Rib, local Whitefish, and other delectable entrees!

Thurs., August 19 Departures

Our flock dispersed today in shifts – some driving east, some staying on to explore more of the U.P., and some taking flights through Minneapolis and Detroit. We had a great time together and very much enjoyed getting to know this part of our country and its history in full detail.

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