New
Mexico
Nature and Culture in the Holiday
Spirit
December 2002
- Trip Report
As
Peg pulled out of the drive to head to Albuquerque from Portal, for
the first time of the season, cranes trumpeted above, a flock of 200,
circling and calling with such energy. It seemed a great omen
for the trip!
Monday,
Dec. 2 Arrival
/ Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
Lynn
and Maggie arrived at the airport in time to share a locksmith finding
adventure with Peg, who had somehow left home with only the valet
key to her car which left her unable to access her suitcase in the
trunk! After Peg's navigating Albuquerque's one way streets
with great creativity, Maggie selected superb hamburgers for all at
Fudrucker's and we were soon off to rendezvous with Reed and Barbara
and Judy and Jamie, who had arrived early to explore Albuquerque and
its historic Old Town area. We traveled south, crossing the Rio Grande
to Socorro, where we settled into our rooms and then headed right
in to Bosque del Apache for the afternoon 'fly-in' of the cranes.
Positioned on the flight deck, which hangs out over one of the roosting
ponds, we watched thousands of geese and cranes come in, all calling.
Upon landing we observed their restless antics at close range, hopping,
dancing, rearranging positions until they all became silhouettes and
darkness was upon us. Back in Socorro we met Polly and Ernest and
enjoyed a welcome dinner at the historic ValVerde steakhouse.
Polly started her sample of local margaritas, Reed his local beer
and the others enjoyed wine from a beautiful local winery that featured
a crane label (Jamie and Peg conferring that wine selection by label
was indeed a good technique.). It was raining as we left the
restaurant; en route home we toured the square to see the Christmas
lights and the old mission church.
Tuesday,
Dec. 3
Bosque del Apache
The
sound of the Bosque at dawn is something you'll never forget, the
stirring of wings, the water, the brisk air, and the cacophony of
sound. We worried this morning, as rain was quite heavy when
we awoke, but after a hearty breakfast, we headed south, and as luck
would have it, the rain lifted for our viewing. Out of the gray light
the birds began to stir; a pass through by the resident Bald Eagle
sent 20,000 or more Ross and Snow Geese into the sky. When most
had cleared the pond, we headed back to the Visitor's Center to warm
up and check the sightings book, enjoying a look at Hooded Merganser's
on the way. Peg found the perfect birder's chair, and snatched
up two for the trip and her casita in Portal. Grandma Judy to
be and Maggie hit the books, and the packages started accumulating.
Thanks to Lynn's artful packing job, we were free to accumulate which
many did with abandon. We birded the shrub and tree areas around
the Visitor's Center and got good looks at Fox and White Crowned Sparrow,
Gambel's Quail, and a Say's Phoebe. There were dozens of American
Robin busy and calling from the trees. We then drove the Marsh
Loop in hopes of seeing the reported Prothonotary Warbler and en route
saw several Northern Harrier, a good variety of ducks, Ruby-crowned
Kinglets, both species of cormorants, flocks of Mountain Bluebird
and a most cooperative Mule Deer mother with young. As the sun came
out stronger the surrounding mountains put on a light show of orange
and pink, mirrored in the willows that grow thick in the valley.
We had success in finding the Dipper; present for much of the winter
to date. It blended in so perfectly with the dark gray tones
of rock and water, that one would miss it if not for a careful eye.
Around the Farm Loop we perched on the Coyote Deck, where Western
Scrub Jays heckled us as we watched and photographed cranes. We saw
three more Bald Eagles, a Harlan's and several dark phase Red-tailed
Hawks, a coyote resting and many geese aloft. Lunch was grand
at the Owl Bar and Café where we could slather heaps of homemade green
chili on our burgers. Back in Socorro several had a good rest,
while Judy toured the town on foot, delighting in seeing the inside
of the mission church. We fixed our tire, which Jamie had been
keeping full of air not to delay our bird watching, and headed back
to the refuge for fly-in. Pink light, a great sense of wilderness
- a peaceful end of the day - what more could we ask! We had
a fun dinner at the Socorro Springs brew pub, trying many varieties
of wood-fired pizza. All slept well after a very full day!
Wednesday,
Dec. 4 Morning at
Bosque / Pueblo Cultural Center and Rio Grande Nature Center, Albuquerque
We
enjoyed another morning, this time with sun, at the Bosque.
Maggie saw a life-bird as we had a stunning view of the Prothonotary
Warbler this morning. It was so tame it was unbelievable, and
Lynn got some great pictures. The brilliant yellow of this bird
against the red of the willows was beautiful. Reed and Barbara
then spotted a roadrunner, which seemed to want to race beside the
van. We saw several Black-crowned Night Heron, and back at the
Visitor's Center we had good luck with songbirds - particularly the
Pyrrhuloxia. Then it was on to Albuquerque, where all enjoyed
sampling corn fires, posole, frybread and other local foods at the
Pueblo Cultural Center. While there were no dance events, everyone
enjoyed time to explore the museum and extensive shops at their own
pace. As day ended, we sunk into the cushioned couches of the
viewing room at Rio Grande Nature Center to watch Wood Ducks, Common
and Hooded Mergansers and other birds at close view. A sound
recorder plays all the sounds of nature into the room - Ernie commented
that THIS was bird watching! Jamie pointed out an excellent
display on rift valley geology of the Rio Grande, something we had
seen that morning driving north. We settled into rooms at the
Old Town Sheraton, and enjoyed southwestern food at High Noon.
Polly and Maggie sampled a giant combination plate; others dined on
steak, pork and other specialties. Barbara was enthralled with the
décor, including an upside down Christmas tree - quite unusual for
sure.
Thursday,
Dec. 5
Petroglyph National Monument / Coronado State Park / Santa Fe
Lynn
scraped the ice off the windows this morning, but what a day for a
hike - with full sun and no wind, we had a great time exploring one
of the trails of this small unit of the National Park System, now
wedged between neighborhoods of sprawling Albuquerque. Still,
back on the trail, we could forget the city and get lost in the sense
of cultures past. We found dozens and dozens of petroglyphs.
At first it was Peg pointing out the images, then one by one the others
started to gain a search image and call them out. Jamie spotted
a healthy, thickly winter-coated coyote making his way up the volcanic
ridge, basking in the sun. We found spirals, human figures fat
and thin, hunting scenes, turkeys, parrots, deer, and finally horses
and Spanish helmets. Horned Larks flashed by calling, but were
nowhere near as tame as the Rock Wrens, which were here in abundance.
We also saw Brown Towhee and Loggerhead Shrike. We shed our
coats and ambled back in time for a great lunch at the Indigo Crow
in nearby Corrales. They had a warm fire going, and a most creative
menu. For desert Lynn feasted on a pumpkin creation while Maggie and
Judy exclaimed over their chocolate mousse. The setting of Coronado
State Park is one of the most beautiful in the Southwest, with long
views of the braided channel of the Rio Grande and close views of
Bernalillo Peak. We saw the impressive murals found in a kiva
here and walked the trail through the ruins. We then headed
north and arrived Santa Fe where Peg led a quick orientation walk
for those new to the city. Barbara quickly worked with the concierge
to get tickets to a concert for us the following day and people scattered
to various local restaurants for dinner, which they enjoyed very much.
Friday,
Dec. 6
Santa Fe
Today
was a free day to explore Santa Fe and all were eager to fit in as
much as they could. Peg's friend Betty Lilienthal joined us
for a drive up to museum hill, where we enjoyed a demonstration of
the various arts, including silver and clay, at the Wheelwright Museum.
Reed commented later in the week how much more meaningful it was to
see the various types of jewelry and other art forms throughout the
week having had this demonstration. Betty took us to the new
Spanish Colonial Museum, which displayed beautiful furniture and other
items from this era. Barbara showed us the display depicting
the intricate accounting of personal goods of one of the leading families
- fascinating! Several took a peek at the Folk Art Museum, others
the Indian Cultural Museum, and we met to enjoy lunch at the new café
on the hill, overlooking snow-covered pinyon and juniper hillsides
and the city. A Townsend's Solitaire sang repeatedly from a
parking lot perch. Back in town by 2:00 p.m., everyone scattered
to the Georgia O'Keefe Museum, the Governor's House and to enjoy some
tempting shopping. We met back at the Loretto Chapel for a very special
concert that evening. Greens and ribbon adorned the chapel and
the miraculous staircase, and the blending of voices, so intricate
and bright, brought us all into the holiday spirit.
Saturday,
Dec. 7
Bandolier National Monument / Holiday Craft Fair at San Ildefonso
Pueblo / Taos
We
got an early start to head for Bandolier National Monument, where
a National Park ranger from the Picuris Pueblo, Cecelia gave our group
a guided hike through the ruins. Walking in this high-walled
impressive canyon is a delight. With binoculars we could find
petroglyphs, and holes in the walls that once held three to five story
buildings. Cecelia was very knowledgeable about the local plants
and their uses, showing us soaps and lotions from yucca and other
important products used by local people. Several walked on up
to the Ceremonial Cave, along the rushing little stream, where snow
and ice settled among the pines. Peg had returned for the forgotten
lunch, too good to miss as it was sandwiches and pastries from the
French Bakery of Santa Fe. For her efforts we enjoyed a winter
picnic with the company of Steller's Jays and Mountain Chickadee,
but alas, not the Juniper Titmouse this year (sorry, Lynn.).
An Abert's Squirrel scolded us as we dined on éclairs and fruit tarts.
Jamie discovered Orangena and Reed worked through identification of
the many varieties of juncos. Then we were on to San Ildefonso Pueblo
for a special holiday fair in their gymnasium. The warm light
on the plaza of the Pueblo, with its great lone cottonwood tree was
most inviting. The gym was crowded, mostly with people from
the various pueblos, who were also enjoying holiday time together,
to visit, and to see what each other were doing. We passed the home
of Maria, the famous potter of San Ildefonso. Almost everyone
found treasures - Lynn an obsidian knife, Jamie an intricate painting,
Judy a nativity scene, Polly and Barbara ornaments and small things
for loved ones back home. We then took the high road to Taos,
winding through beautiful painted badlands en route to Chimayo, where
we stopped to see the Chapel and the Black-billed Magpies in the nearby
wetlands. We went to several weaving shops, one that Maggie
knew from her estate work. In one she bought a beautiful rug
with a roadrunner on it. Reed and Barbara enjoyed a return to
a shop from many years passed and likewise found a memento.
Ravens soared above as we climbed higher and higher. Polly and
Ernest loved the scenery and the snowy realm of Mt. Truchas.
Peg had to show them the magic bean field of Robert Redford's film
and the massive mission church at Las Trampas. We descended
into Taos right at dusk, taking a quick peak at the church made famous
by Georgia O'Keefe in her paintings. The lobby of our hotel
was decorated to the hilt - great fun and very warm to arrive to.
Several went off to walk through the luminaries of the art walk, lighting
of LeDoux, which opened this evening. We met back at Doc Martin's
the excellent restaurant in our hotel for a group dinner.
Sunday,
Dec. 8
Taos
We
had a full day to explore Taos. Peg scraped lots of ice off
the windows, and we all discovered how cold 12 degrees was as we stood
on the window bridge over the Rio Grande Gorge this morning.
Polly said it was well worth it "truly awe-inspiring" to stand six
hundred feet above the life-giving waters of this great river. We
then went to walk through the historical Hacienda Martinez, which
gives an excellent feel for the rural life of settler's in the days
of transition between three governments - Spain, Mexico and U.S.
We walked through rooms that displayed the gear for livestock raising,
trading, home life and religious life. Barbara was particularly intrigued
with the death carts driven by witches and Ernest by the striking
black and white photos of the early Moradas. We then went to the Millicent
Rogers Museum to enjoy seeing its incredible collections of everything
from pottery to her dresses as a statement of fashion in early, art-filled
Taos. Reed remarked that seeing the craftsmanship of a hand-carved
wardrobe was "worth the whole trip". Everyone enjoyed authentic
Mexican food at Rita's where two women whisked out the best food.
After a break at the hotel (in which time some went to the nearby
Kit Carson Museum) we spent the afternoon at Taos Pueblo, meeting
the people in their shops and walking through the central area of
this magnificent pueblo. Polly and Ernest tried bread made in
the local horno ovens -- Ernie winning the heart of the local dogs
with his crumbs. Reed and Barbara, here ten years ago, remarked
that the pueblo seemed more prosperous. Jamie and Lynn enjoyed
photography in the soft angled winter light. Back at our hotel,
we were invited to join the staff Christmas party, where they had
quite a spread putout for dinner, complete with music and a roaring
fire.
Monday,
Dec. 9
Taos to Gallup / Acoma
We
followed the Rio Grande this morning, passing through beautiful country
as we descended from the mountain realm of Taos. Passing through
San Juan Pueblo, the owner of the gallery saw our van and came right
over to open up - so much for not looking like tourists! She
was delightful, still enthusiastic about the weekend gathering at
San Ildefonso we had been to, and of the Solstice celebrations so
important to the pueblos. After this quiet place, Albuquerque
seemed all too bustling. We ate a quick picnic lunch, made short
by Acoma's announcement that they would close early that day, also
due to Solstice Celebrations that evening. Some days you are
thankful for our interstate highway system, and today was one of them.
Ironic to be calling the ancient sky city by cell phone "wait for
us we are coming.". The rush was well worth it to see this amazing
place, perched high on a mesa -- blending in with such harmony to
its rock and juniper foundation. The same dog that Peg feel
in love with the year before was here to greet us, but having matured,
his first task was to pee on the van tire. Our guide, Orlando, spoke
quickly to fit all he had to tell us in. With humor, and expansive
information he covered the humorous to the painful -- tales of Onate
punishment of their people, children lost to slavery, marching church
timbers 40 miles on the backs of men. Around him the pueblo
people were busy and happy, carrying buckets of chili and making fires
on the rooftops to start cooking. There were just a few tables
open for selling; Judy was lucky to find a quick ornament. The
views from the Mesa top were incredible in the soft winter light.
We enjoyed the afternoon, asking questions and walking through the
pueblo, and then went on to Gallup. Here Maggie got us all in
trouble by requesting a stop at Richardson's Trading Post - and the
back of the van was filling up! The lobby of our neon-lit hotel
was bright and cheery, with a two-story pinyon tree and a roaring
fire. We met in the lobby for drinks, and decided to have dinner
right there for the convenience. It was great to nestle into
the ambiance provided by Navajo rugs, portraits of movie stars, Christmas
greens, local choirs caroling and even an appearance by Santa Claus.
Tuesday,
Dec. 10
Chaco Canyon
Peg
convinced every one to rise early for the trip into Chaco. It
would about 22 miles of dirt road, which in the morning was frozen
and not too difficult to traverse. Lynn had to get a photo of
the 'warning, road not passable if wet' sign. Barbara and Polly
giggled from the bumps in the backseat, and Reed marveled at the depth
of the ruts. Still we made it fine, passing hogans of the Navajo
homes, small herds of sheep and cattle and a lone hawk nest. Finally
we had our first views of Fajada Butte, a striking geologic feature
prominent in this valley. Polly and Ernest had just seen the
PBS special on the solstice markers found there, as well as other
astronomical sites in Chaco. We made a brief stop at the Visitor's
Center to check in, and went right to the two most impressive sites,
Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl. There is now ay to describe the
impact of the complexity of these rock structures, or the exquisite
use of native stone. Free standing walls several stories high tower
their thousand-year history above you. It is still possible
to walk amid the rooms, to duck through small doors and to gaze through
corner windows. Standing on the plaza, looking down into a kiva,
one can imagine the place alive with activity, the sound of children,
and turkeys and men returning with food. Maggie commented on
the sublime quiet - we shared the place with so few cars we had the
feeling of having it nearly all to ourselves. After a picnic lunch,
Judy, Jamie and Lynn hiked up to the Pueblo Bonito overlook, maneuvering
the crack in the wall trail that leads to the top with skill.
They loved the grand vistas; the others loved lounging for an hour
rest on soft couches in the Visitor's Center after watching the film.
We all then visited Pueblo Arroyo, which is hanging on the side of
the eroding creek somewhat perilously today. Beautiful views down
Chaco Wash and through South Gap again helped us envision the quality
of life here so long ago. Our last stop was to the largest of
the great kivas at Casa Rinconada. We left with just enough
time to make the pavement by dark. The sunset over the vast
nothing was something we will all remember as rays of sunlight transformed
the barren earth with beauty. A lone windmill and a few cows
were our only company as we slid on the now softened mud surface.
Back to our warm, pink neon-lit home. Luminaries decorated the
roof of the El Rancho, another community choir was in to perform and
we once again enjoyed our drinks in the lobby. Three went off
to sample Mexican fare at the Panz Allegra, one crashed immediately
into bed, and the others enjoyed a return to our hotel restaurant
for steak and beer.
Wednesday,
Dec. 11 El Morro / Zuni Pueblo
We
enjoyed another morning in a beautiful place, El Morro National Monument.
Here a prominent sandstone outcrop marked a spring - a gem in an arid
place that drew travelers over the centuries. Here they carved
first their symbols and then their names. We walked the trail
to view them, delighting first in the antics of a big flock of Pygmy
Nuthatch and a few bold Townsend's Solitaires. Ernest recognized
several of the inscriptions from his readings, Maggie found initials
that matched her sons, Lynn found a geographic connection and Judy
led us up to #21, the inscription with the age old mistake.
We finished walking the beautiful loop trail amid tall pines, and
then drove over to the Inn at Halona, near the plaza at Zuni for lunch.
Lasagne was the meal of the day from the Halona Deli, not exactly
local specialty foods, but just delicious nonetheless. Our hosts Roger
and Elaine were delightful and encouraged us to attend the dances
held that afternoon, as did our guide at the Arts and Crafts Center
who took time to tell us the Zuni Creation story. We found our
way up to the viewing area - a rare spur of the moment way to participate
in another culture. Polly found herself in the middle of the
line of dancers as they emerged onto the street; perhaps she too received
the blessings of corn pollen in her hair. Curtis Quinn was our guide
at the new A:shiwi A:wan Museum where artifacts of Hawiku that have
been returned recently from the Smithsonian are displayed. We
saw magnificent pottery, many with the design of macaws, once traded
and highly prized by the pueblo people. We finished up our day
driving past the red and white banded sandstone cliffs at sunset,
and stopped for one last shopping spree at Joe Milo's Trading Post,
one of Peg's favorite in the region. Our final dinner was a
great time, as we had thoroughly enjoyed each other's company and
our time in holiday New Mexico.
Thursday,
Dec. 12 Departures
A
simple day, back to Albuquerque, lunch for some at Maria Theresa's
in Old Town, and then all headed home.
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