Olympic Peninsula
June 2-10, 2007 - Trip Report
Peg Abbott, guide, with six participants

Sat., June 2 Arrival in Port Angeles
Lake Crescent Lodge was a lovely place to alight after a day of travel. Rhododendrons were in bloom - both the native Pacific variety and several colorful planted varieties used to line the path to the entry. The lake was stunning, with a few languid waves upon the shore. Its color when calm is a deep jade. White-crowned Sparrows were uttering their wispy songs from the treetops as we walked to the lodge for dinner. Salmon was high on everyone’s list for our first meal, though Sandra enjoyed her lamb, and lavender ice cream won the prize for dessert.

Sun., June 3 Merrymere Falls / Hurricane Ridge
We met before breakfast for a walk up to 90 ft. Merrymere Falls, the trail leading out from our hotel. It was a lovely trail, well groomed, which gave us freedom to look up at the massive trees that lined the way. We followed the rushing waters of Barnes Creek, and with luck we saw two American Dippers putting on a good show under a highway bridge, where they obviously had some nestlings. We catalogued the many blooming flowers along the way, so walked slowly and deliberately, taking in the majesty of ancient forests. Even the ferns grow head high, as does the Devil’s Club. We talked about everything from salmon fisheries to early pioneers, until breakfast drew us back along the trail.

Today was a brilliant sunny day, and Peg made the decision to alter our plans – it was the day to be up on top of Hurricane Ridge, with a view of half the world, as rain was forecast for the following two days. We drove there fairly directly as we were getting a late start, but found we had plenty of time to take in the views, and to watch singing Black-headed Grosbeak and Townsend’s Warblers at our viewpoints. Gray Jay came in close to inspect our potential to give them handouts; some beautiful swallowtail butterflies were enjoying the warmth as much as we did.

At the top we found Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Mountain Hemlock and a host of early blooming wildflowers in the high meadow. Marsh Marigold and Glacier Lily were the most common; among them we found an Olympic Chipmunk and a herd of Blacktail Deer. They were intent on feeding, and pretty much ignored our efforts to frame the perfect photo, rarely raising their heads from chewing! We heard the lilting call of Varied Thrush, a far-reaching sound over extensive snowfields. Snow indeed blocked the road past the Visitor’s Center – the Olympic Marmots we’d hoped to see would be just too far a hike. We contented ourselves with a great lunch on the patio of the Visitor’s Center and tremendous views of Mt. Olympus and the Bailey Range. The Elwah and other drainages remain dense with trees - such a hopeful sight. A Common Raven showed off its flying skills while Pine Siskin and Purple Finch fed among the pollen-filled cones of a spruce almost within reach of our table. Some of our group relaxed and looked over the excellent herbarium inside, while others of us took a walk; then we headed down to our delightful lodgings on the lake, and another excellent dinner in the Lake Crescent dining room.

Mon., June 4 Freshwater Bay / Visitor’s Center & Peabody Creek Loop Trail / Dungeness River Audubon Nature Center / Dungeness Peninsula
We had a leisurely start to the day, as breakfast with a view of the lake is a lovely experience, and does not start until 7:30 a.m. Rain was in the forecast, but dawn came with just a soft cloud cover and cool weather. Drops began as we loaded the van, and continued through our return to Freshwater Bay, though not hard enough to preclude our viewing. We scanned the bay for ducks, and found two species of scoter, White-winged and Surf, accompanied by Pigeon Guillemot and Common Loon. A pair of loons were calling and calling, a beautiful sound echoing through the bay. In the scope you could see them face each other as they called; a close-in duet well timed for our visit. Alex walked the exposed sand flat, searching for creatures of the tidal zone. We also wanted to check out the main park Visitor Center, which had been closed upon our return from the ridge yesterday. They had some good exhibits, with life-sized mounts of Roosevelt Elk and Olympic Marmot, and as always a selection of excellent books and posters. A Fox Sparrow was singing loudly just outside but stayed hidden; luckily, later in the day we found several to admire.

Steller’s Jay were bold and noisy, but it was the ascending spiral calls of Swainson’s Thrush that beckoned us along what turned out to be a lovely loop trail down to a creek in lush hemlock forest. The height of trees in some of these north side forests is just remarkable; certainly they must challenge the maximum distance that transpiration can work through. Imagine pulling nutrients and fluids up through those needles so high we have to use binoculars to see what tree species it is! We found Pacific Bleeding Heart in bloom, Salmonberry and a variety of small white flowered plants that hug the shaded forest floor. Winter Wren kept up a concert in the lower realm of the forest, in duet with Orange-crowned Warbler in the treetops. The uphill brought a few grumbles, quickly forgotten as we recounted our Red-bellied Salamander and Banana Slug finds. Nature takes effort, but always rewards….

It was lunchtime as we pulled into the Dungeness River Audubon Nature Center. In the parking lot Alex spotted our first California Quail. We got great looks as it fed around large downed logs before flying up to a mid-height tree limb. Light rain was falling, but not enough to make it unpleasant or hinder our feasting. We walked out the old railroad grade afterwards, finding great afternoon bird activity. Chestnut-backed Chickadees were new for many, and while familiar, we enjoyed seeing Spotted Towhee and Cedar Waxwing gorging on twinberry fruits. A Rufous Hummingbird perched for all of us to admire its deep orange and red colors and a Willow Flycatcher gave us a fleeting view, reinforced by its metallic call notes. Thanks to Sandra’s keen eye we finally got a look at the Orange-crowned Warbler – with so many singing we just had to find one! Back at the feeders we found Pine Siskin and Pine Grosbeak, a comical bathing American Robin, and an elegant California Quail, which posed high on a central tree snag as if presiding over some important hearings. The trails were lovely, the birds responsive, and Peg discovered a colleague from days on the Farallon Islands some 25 years ago. Bob Boekelheide directs this active center, opened in 2001 – a must-see location just north of Sequim.

Bob gave us a few birding tips, and we went off in search of these species. It was fun to drive the back roads, and we admired the few remaining farms and their century old barns. The Dungeness Schoolhouse is quite a local landmark; near it we walked along a raised canal bank where we found Yellow Warbler, more Chestnut-backed Chickadee and the omnipresent Winter Wren and Song Sparrow. In a residential area we spotted a Sharp-shinned Hawk, so intent on hunting it allowed our close inspection. We drove over to the coast to scope gulls and waterfowl. Bathing Caspian Tern were our favorite find, along with a few day-old ducklings. We drove over to Dungeness National Recreation Area to admire the view of the Seven-mile sand spit and its picturesque lighthouse, and to find Northern Harrier in the open dunes and farm fields. We found a male, hunting low over the hills; en route home after dinner we found another. Janet spotted a robust Blacktail Deer likely very ready to have its fawn. Dinner was at the Three Crabs Restaurant, with a view of the ocean and a Harbor Seal that swam on by.

Tues., June 5 Sol Duc Valley / Elwah Valley
We explored close to home today, walking trails of two great river valleys that come off the north side of the Olympic Mountains. Rain showers danced in and out, in general giving little hindrance to our wanderings and only wreaking havoc on our picnic lunch – as the sun was shining! We made a series of stops up the Sol Duc, finding Pacific Slope and Hammond’s Flycatcher, Chestnut-backed Chickadee, a lovely pair of Western Tanager and other forest birds. There were many new flowers in bloom, particularly in the old-growth forest – Single Pyrola, Bunchberry and near the stream Lance-leaf Saxifrage. Alex diligently keyed them out and called out their names as we traveled on to the next walk. Sol Duc Falls was magnificent, running strong with recent rain and snow melt. At its edge a parent American Dipper made multiple trips in to feed its young. The chick was hungry and demanding; between feeds it bobbed and pecked at anything near - even a few green leaves. It was hard to pull ourselves away from this, but the drama would continue for several days, and lunch was calling. We sought out a nice location on the river, but in doing so missed our gap of sunshine – luckily we all had sandwiches made and plates loaded with goodies as rain hit and we dove into the van. It quit before we were through, but we had some very soggy tablecloths!

After an afternoon break back at the hotel, we ventured out to the Elwah Valley. This broad U-shaped, glacial carved valley has a character quite different from others we have seen, with open meadows and a wide milky river. Twin snowy peaks were framed by tall trees to highlight scenic views of the fast moving river. We walked the Madison Creek Falls trail amid immense Red Cedar trees and a variety of ferns. The small falls were lovely, exhibiting a soft spray over moss-clad rocks. Looking up to the cliffs in search of possible Roosevelt Elk, Peg spotted a large group of Vaux’s Swift, and Sandra found a circling pair of Red-tailed Hawk. A Black-tailed Deer fed in lush grass; farther up the road we stopped at the reservoir where Canadian Geese were resting. It was a nice afternoon outing, and we returned to a relaxing dinner at the lodge.

Wed., June 6 John Wayne Marina / Port Townsend / Protection Island
This morning we woke to the laughing loud calls of Pileated Woodpecker just outside our doors, and the lapping of waves on the shore caused by pretty fierce winds at dawn. The view at the end of the lake was misty, and quite “Alaskanesque,” we agreed. With a bit of trepidation we boarded the van, but Janet reminded us we were heading for the rain shadow. Indeed, by the edge of the Elwah Valley clouds were breaking up, and at our first stop at John Wayne Marina the sun broke through. Here we had scope views of Common Goldeneye and Black Oystercatcher, three species of gulls – Glacous-winged, Western and Herring, and a Caspian Tern. A Belted Kingfisher gave its rattling call as it flew by, and finally, a Pacific-slope Flycatcher flew in low onto some open branches of a madrone. After hearing it daily, we were happy to have time for a study! The marina is picturesque, with boats packed in to the safe harbor. We stopped again at Discovery Bay, where the Jamestown S’Klallam tribe has a beautiful gallery and carvers at work. Our shopping frenzy could be compared to the feeding frenzy we would see later in the day at sea, but all seemed quite happy to have a souvenir of this lush and misty northwest country.

We drove on to Port Townsend, admiring the ornate Victorian architecture of the residences, and the century-old weathered brick buildings on the waterfront downtown. Peg had made reservations at Salal Café, where we enjoyed crepes and great sandwiches in a sunny atrium room. Everyone had about an hour and a half to walk and explore or to shop in town. We were booked on a 2:30 whale-watching tour, a four-hour jaunt out into the straits in search of Orca. We arrived to the news it was cancelled due to high winds and unsafe seas in the open part of the Straits – we were crestfallen! Luckily the company worked with Peg, and the captain agreed to a two-hour charter, closer to shore, over to Protection Island National Wildlife Refuge. The boat had a protected cabin, and we held on through some rough chop around the point, which smoothed out in the lee of the island. It was a great trip, highlighted by seeing two large groups of Harbor Seal, pairs of Tufted Puffin close to the boat, Rhinocerous Auklet, three species of cormorant – Brandts, Double-crested and Pelagic, two Cassin’s Auklet, and another Black Oystercatcher. Bald Eagles were here anticipating seal pupping season; Peg stopped counting at 22. Every age category was represented and we witnessed several dominance interactions between them. They perched majestically on beach logs, seagrass-covered knolls and on the steep cliffs.

We got back to Port Townsend with time to visit the rhododendron garden at Fort Worden, which was at its peak of bloom, with myriad colors and blossom forms. We drove by several of the really ornate Victorian homes before settling into a downtown restaurant Sandra found for us; a delightful, intimate bistro with a great menu. We left at last light, and Alex entertained us with tales on our ride home; a full but wonderful day!

Thurs, June 7 Pillar Point / Makah Tribal Lands / Cape Flattery / Forks / Kalaloch
We had a grand day exploring the northern coast up to Neah Bay. These were new roads for many of the group. We grappled with the complex issues of forest management with discussions inspired by massive clearcuts seen along the way. Peg and Alex recounted their experience here in the early 1990’s at the heat of the Spotted Owl controversy. On this side of the peninsula we were regularly passing logging trucks, though all had pretty small diameter trees. Our first stop was at Pillar Point, where we found Great Blue Heron, more than a dozen eagles, a group of Red-breasted Merganser loafing on a sand spit, an off-season Mew Gull, a family of bathing Song Sparrow and a singing Chipping Sparrow. We continued on to Clallam Bay, and found a good place to park for a view of Surf and White-winged Scoters. With luck we found and got good scope views of three Marbled Murrlet. Betty spotted a Belted Kingfisher in a quiet bay, and off the foot-bridge of the city park we found a lovely Common Merganser male. We continued on to Seiku to check the harbor, and then to Shipwreck Point, where we spotted quick views of a Harbor Porpoise.

At Neah Bay, our restaurant was closed to honor a funeral, so we spent time on the jetty admiring Pelagic Cormorants, a breeding plumage Common Loon, lots of scoters, Rhinocerous Auklet, Marbled Murrelet and a lone Greater Scaup. We were getting back in the van when a local gentleman, Ralph, asked us if we’d seen the whale. Out we poured, just in time for several blows and great close looks at Gray Whale –wow! We had lunch at the Warm House Café, then visited the impressive Makah Museum to learn more about them as a people, and to understand the significance of the archaeological dig at Lake Ozette, which Peg had observed being excavated when visiting here in the 1970’s.

The walk to Cape Flattery, amidst giant Red Cedar to a view of Tatoosh Island and its myriad seabirds, was just right at day’s end – a chance to stretch our legs, to absorb the sad demise and hopeful current revitalization of the Makah people, and to enjoy their amazing historical lands, rich in every resource. We set the scope up on the new viewing platform, and saw huge rafts of Common Murre, with hundreds on the cliffs at this start of the nesting season. We found Tufted Puffin in the water, and Pelagic Cormorants clinging to their cliffside nests. Soon it was time to go; the drive along the coast was lovely. We went directly to dinner as it was pretty late, but enjoyed a great meal in the cozy dining room before settling in to our spacious log cabins.

Fri., June 8 Hoh Rain Forest / Forks / Intimacy with a Peregrine / Bochachiel
What was to be an extraordinary wildlife day dawned with bright sun. How beautiful to wake up to the sounds of ocean waves and to watch surf pound in on the Kalaloch Rocks and the sandy shore. Walking beckoned and Alex and Sandra answered the call. Others at breakfast had a real treat when Janet spotted a mother Common Merganser with her tiny chicks in the freshwater stream leading to the ocean just outside the dining room. Peg scoped seabirds from the gazebo perched on the cliff edge, and found gorgeous breeding plumage Pacific Loons, their silver neck feathers shining in the sun, even at a great distance. The ocean was churning, and we watched scores of alcids, gulls and cormorants flying low across the water, and landing to feed.

Our destination this morning was the Hoh Rainforest, with several stops along the way. Our first stop was Ruby Beach, and it could not have been more beautiful with sunlight dappling through the giant wind-twisted shore pine and cedar, which opened up along the creek for a view of several picturesque sea stacks. An Orange-crowned Warbler called out loudly, and we had nice looks at Swainson’s Thrush. We pulled into the Big Cedar Tree scenic pullout to pay homage to a living giant of likely over 600 years old; a massive being with great presence. Luckily a flock of Golden-crowned Kinglets and Chestnut-backed Chickadees were there, finding insects to eat, and this time Betty got a much better look at these active little dynamos – she was delighted! Driving into the Hoh Rainforest Visitor Center, we spotted a Wood Duck with five little chicks and a River Otter almost simultaneously. Peg pulled over quickly, and we were able to watch the young otter catch small fish by whirling and twirling through the cattails at the edge of the pond, and seemingly stirring up the mud. It would dive, surface with its face scrunched up while it chewed its prey, and then it would extend its long sleek body, move on a bit and repeat this pattern. We watched it for twenty minutes or more while several cars pulled over, people came and went, and this little being ignored us all, intent on its rich food find. Marge got quite close to the ducks, and hopefully got some excellent photos. We walked the Hall of Mosses Trail, admiring the many-layered forest canopy, and the languid stream running between giant trees. A carpet of moss and the leaves of a flowering plant flowed with the current, appearing like a Japanese painting with its intricate detail. There was so much to admire – we walked slowly and reverently. A Hammond’s Flycatcher eluded us for quite some time and then afforded a quick glimpse; in the distance we heard a Pileated Woodpecker, and up close surveyed its recent feeding holes.

We had a delightful spot for our picnic, and once again scooped up dips, made fresh salads, hearty sandwiches (and oh, those tempting Maui Onion chips), then cookies…. Lunch is always a good time; a chance to rest and regroup for what follows. Today, that was another great wildlife sighting as Janet spotted a newborn Black-tailed Deer, still spotted and wobbly but spirited in its attempts to follow the doe. We heard a Black-throated Gray Warbler, and with some effort tracked down this dashing bird for some fantastic looks as it posed on the branch of a massive Sitka Spruce. We did not find Elk with their calves as we had hoped, so we headed in to Forks to complete some chores and then head back to the lodge. Most of the group enjoyed a nice break before dinner; three could not get enough of the sunny day and headed out for some hiking. We found a wonderful forest full of burls that took on the shape of humans at Beach 2, as well as a Red-breasted Sapsucker. Wanting views of sea stacks, we returned to Ruby Beach to walk on the polished beach of sea stones, framing photos of waves and sea stacks, and watching the array of gulls and seabirds. Peg spotted a Peregrine high on the cliffs of the largest sea stack, and went off to find Alex and Sandra. It had left its perch when we trained our binoculars on it, but we were not to be disappointed – looking up at the tall conifers of the sea stack we picked it up in flight, and as it banked and turned right towards us it swooped low, seemingly glaring right into our eyes! We could see its facial moustache straight on, yet shy of us it banked and dropped, as if hitting a target of prey. It turned out that its target was a bathtub! For almost 20 minutes we watched this amazing predator first take a long deep drink in the freshwater stream, then position itself every which way possible, as a person would under a delightfully strong showerhead. The bird remained alert, watching all directions, but obviously enjoyed this late afternoon bath. It hopped up on a beach log, shook and preened, looked around, and decided to go through the whole routine again. Peg snapped photos as quickly as possible. What a show!

We had an early dinner at the lodge, and four went back out in search of Sooty Grouse (no luck) and Roosevelt Elk. We found about 28 very pregnant female elk in a farm field with high grass. The herd was alert, intent on feeding, and soon to double in number as the calves came on. We tried to get back to the campground, but night fell sooner than expected among the dense canopy of trees. At mile 11 we stopped our quest, sampling the sound waves for small owls as we returned. We had no luck with owls, but did hear the resonant call that Common Nighthawk make in diving display. A great day!

Sat., June 9 Lake Quinault / Forks / Rialto Beach / La Push
We woke to rain and wind, and a very dramatic ocean. The crashing waves did not seem to bother a River Otter just upstream; we watched him as we packed up our things and checked out at the main lodge. We had enjoyed our cozy cabins and access to the beach, but in this weather we opted for a deep forest trail that would buffer the weather conditions. We drove south to Lake Quinault, and walked the loop nature trail through a giant grove of ancient Douglas Fir. The first part of the trail parallels a striking gorge, where we spotted an Osprey nest at least 120 feet up in the sky. We heard Pacific Slope Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Kinglet and Orange-crowned Warbler, and marveled once again at all the mosses, lichens, liverworts, ferns and fungi of the forest floor. After the hike we continued to drive around part of the lake, admiring the rhododendrons in bloom in many of yards. We found a sizable group of elk grazing, but no calves – only very pregnant females.

Returning north to make our way back to Port Angeles, we stopped in Forks for a burger and shake at Sully’s; a local tradition. The timber museum was open and we found it quite interesting. Just past Forks, we turned down the course of the Sol Duc River to Rialto Beach. It was a wild day on the ocean, with waves now twice the size we had awakened to, and wind sweeping mist from them as they broke towards shore. We had gone in hopes of viewing tide pools, but there was no safe passage out to the rocky area at the end of the jetty. We spent time taking pictures of the massive beach logs, the polished stones, giant kelp, and the brooding sea stacks. With the scope, Peg spotted a Black Scoter out along the edge of a sea stack, bobbing in high surf. Loons and mergansers were also busy feeding.

We then drove to the other side of the river at La Push, checking the quiet harbor for birds that might take refuge from the storm. Studying gulls we found one very pale immature Glacous Gull, and several smaller Ring-billed Gull amid the far more abundant Glacous-winged. Two bull California Sea Lions were barking and wrestling close to shore, keeping two quieter Harbor Seals on the other side of the bay. We found a place for an espresso to warm up; then headed back to Port Angeles, where we had a delightful final dinner at the Garden Café.

Sun., June 10 Departures
Two of our group left early for Seattle, and as others did not have to go until noon, we spent the morning birding off Ediz Hook, a local sand spit built up for industry and a coast guard facility. Close to town, where waters of a freshwater stream emerged to the sea, we watched Glacous-winged Gull bathing with gusto, and found several male Harlequin Duck. Further out the spit, amid the Rhinoceros Auklet, Pigeon Guillemot and Pelagic Cormorants, we found many Harlequins; one group of a dozen males, and another of about eight males and three females. Wow! We returned via some new subdivisions, and got out in some mixed forest habitat to watch Chestnut-backed Chickadee, Rufous Hummingbird and our final Winter Wren. Amid mixed weather, expected in the summer Northwest, we had a super trip with great variety, from ocean to forest to the alpine.

 

Photos by: Peg Abbott.

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