Puerto Peñasco, Mexico
December 2004 - Trip Report

Thursday, December 4 Arrival in Tucson, Arizona / Travel to Ajo

As our flock gathered in Tucson, Lynn and Carl's lost luggage delayed our departure to Ajo. We welcomed this, however, because it gave us a chance to visit the Kitt Peak National Observatory in one of Sky Island mountain ranges near Tucson and the Tohono O'odham Reservation. The drive up the mountain offered an incredible display of geological types and a great look at how the vegetation changes with the elevation from desert to pine forest. We had only about a half-hour at the top, but it was enough to take in the displays and for several participants to shop for locally made baskets, described by the Tohono O'odham observatory guide. We almost missed our luggage rendezvous (phew!); at dusk we continued on to our delightful desert accommodations, the Guest House in Ajo.
 

As this town is small, we decided on Chinese take out that Peg picked up and brought back to the B&B. Mike, the owner of the Guest House, helped spread out all the great entrees, and we sampled them with satisfaction. He told us about the town, its copper mining past and its current trends. Mike's generous hospitality made it a relaxing evening and a nice way to begin our journey.
 

Friday, December 5 Organ Pipe Cactus National Park / Puerto Peñasco

Mike outdid himself serving us a marvelous breakfast at the beautiful table, an antique prized from the mining days. Peg spent the early morning at the tire store, as a large thorn had caused a flat on the van. Others birded around the B&B and were rewarded with great views of Costa's Hummingbird, Gambel's Quail, Phainopepla, Inca Dove, and Curve-billed Thrasher.
 

On our drive south we were soon surrounded by beautiful desert vegetation: Saguaro, Cholla, and Cane Opuntia, interspersed with Mesquite, Palo Verde, and other shrubs. Our first stop - at a high point on the road -- granted long vistas into Mexico with the desert laying like carpet as far as the eye could see. In Organ Pipe Cactus National Park we found several species of flower in bloom and officially met the Organ Pipe Cactus. Perched prominently on the warm south-facing slope, this succulent's many-trunked architecture contrasts sharply with the single massive trunks of the more abundant Saguaros. After visiting and browsing through books at the Visitor's Center, we drove the loop road to the east, a winding route established to show the geologic as well as natural features. We scanned the cliffs for Prairie Falcon or Golden Eagle, but in general the birding was very quiet.
 

On a walk to a natural arch, we found a flower-filled draw with several species of active butterflies, as well as a Black-chinned Sparrow tucked in with a mob of White-crowned Sparrows. Carl was happy to return to the desert - we all marveled at the density of Saguaros and their abundant beauty beneath the rugged outline of the Ajo Mountains. After a picnic lunch, some short walks and birding, we headed into Mexico.
 

The border crossing was friendly and fast. A half-hour later we noticed a dramatic change in vegetation resulting from increased aridity, lower elevation, and the salts associated with the Gulf of California. Days are short in December; we arrived in time to watch the sunset from the patio of our beach hotel. We had a great dinner right there at the hotel, some margaritas and a chance to try the food of Sonora.
 

Saturday, December 6 CEDO / Sunset Tide Pools

Peg got the map out at breakfast to orient us to Estero Morua, Rocky Point, the harbor, and other local landmarks. Several of the group were out at dawn, identifying the birds as they fed back and forth beyond the waves. The low tide revealed the rock reef, and several shorebirds including Ruddy Turnstone, Black-bellied Plover, Willet, and Sanderlings were feeding away. The great expanse of beach looking off to Pelican Point -- a granitic outcrop by Cholla Bay -- was beautiful in the early morning light.
 

After breakfast we headed to Cholla Bay as well. We drove into the residential area and walked along the beach rock out to the Point, where we were entertained with Brown and Blue-footed Boobies, Wandering Tattler, Ruddy Turnstones, Common Loon, rafts of Eared Grebes, and more. Lisa really wanted to see the actual Blue feet of the boobies; then a very tolerant bird obliged her by perching for a nap and then waking up with a good, revealing stretch! Lynn and Regina called out "Frigatebird" - such tropical birds were new to Jan and she was just delighted. Many fishing boats were active beyond the weathered granite boulders, and a few locals fished by line, showing us their catch of the day. We started to work on shorebirds and left when lunch seemed a good idea.
 

At Balboa's on the harbor we did not have to stop our birding and sightseeing. We ate on the deck watching boats come and go in the harbor. Ralph spotted a Green Heron perched on the anchor lines; Brown Pelicans were particularly abundant. Fish tacos and cheese enchiladas were the menu for today - delicious. We then drove out to CEDO, a non-profit organization for Peñasco with which we would work for several days. Rick Boyer, a co-director with his wife Peggy, began with a great slide show highlighting the significance of the Gulf of California. Both Tim and Carl had really wanted to explore the Delta region and its ecology - this was a chance to do it with local experts. Around four p.m. we walked down the beach, where the outgoing tide exposed complex layers of the basalt reef, home to a myriad of creatures. Rick and CEDO's educational specialist, Emily, gently turned over rocks, searching out sea stars, urchins, and other denizens of the reef, recounting their life histories, taxonomy, feeding strategies, and more.
 

Our dinner tonight was at the Friendly Dolphin, a well-known Peñasco favorite, where we had delicious fresh seafood cooked with interesting sauces. Several tried the shrimp, while Polly downed the Sonoran-Style fresh fish with salsa and fresh white cheese.
 

Sunday, December 7 Local Ponds and Birding Sites / Estero Morua / Oyster Farm

Before breakfast several participants walked down to the beach, where we spotted seven Surfbirds in amongst the more common shorebirds and terns. The trill of Forster's Terns blended with bleats of Heermann's Gulls - a nice way to start the day and right outside our door. Peg got up early to sample the hot tub and watch the sunrise - even guides can relax at the beach! For our second breakfast at the hotel, several ordered the Huevos Rancheros so good the day before, while Lynn ate a healthy fruit plate. Carl had a great idea - a plate of papaya - we were definitely settling into this Mexican life.
 

Our first stop was at the local sewage lagoons, a well-watered environment frequented by ducks and, today, about ten Magnificent Frigatebirds. We had to search hard amid the Northern Shovelers for a few other ducks - Ruddy, Blue-winged Teal, and a Lesser Scaup to mention a few. Lisa persisted for a good look at a Marsh Wren, and several had good looks at Black Verdin and Black Phoebe. Jan was calling out names, making real progress in this art of birding.
 

We wanted to explore the mouth of Estero Morua this morning; en route we stopped at the Cet-Mar Aquarium, tucked in between the technical college and Las Conchas. This small facility welcomes tourists, and the students were happy to answer our questions about all the life forms in the tanks. We saw octopus, sea cucumbers, and sea turtles. Regina held too tightly to the food she presented the huge Hawksbill Sea Turtles and one took a bite - a rather strange and memorable connection! We drove down the six-mile stretch of American homes -- a sort of de facto refuge for birds, as the use of ATVs is forbidden on the beach. At the last house we parked, wandered down to the sea edge, and walked out to the point, watching American Oystercatcher, Short-billed Dowitcher, Ruddy Turnstone and more.
 

We went to CEDO at three and did some shopping in their gift store; then we headed out to the inner side of the Esteroto access a local oyster farm's mudflats. Lynn and Lisa spotted Burrowing Owl on the way in, a really keen-eyed find. Birding was really great here, with a wide array of shorebirds, including: several pair of American Oystercatcher, Reddish Egrets, and even a first winter record of Stilt Sandpiper. We followed Rick as he wound his way through beach rock, explaining first the process of oyster farming and then the productivity of estuaries. We found ghost crabs, hermit crabs, sea worms that looked like centipedes, and a host of tiny creatures all bearing unique adaptations to this cyclical, tide-enriched environment. Rick couldn't resist initiating us about the Shrimp Dance, although it should be noted that he remained the director. Jan marveled as Peg and Lynn sunk in mud down to their knees! When else can adults be such kids? We returned to sample fresh oysters, some cold beer, and the ceviche.
 

Monday, December 8 Bird Island (Isla San Jorge) Cruise

Early breakfast proved to be a challenge here in mañana land, but Ralph came to the rescue with his great find of Rosie's Café. At his suggestion we stopped by to order the night before, so it was all ready when we got there -- giving us extra time that morning to drive about the harbor looking for our boat. Luckily it is a very small harbor (and an early boat is either a fisherman or the boat for us), so we made our rendezvous with Rick and Emily in good time. Soon we were underway, the swells pitching a bit with the winds right from the mouth of the harbor. A pair of Surf Scoters dodged the packs of Eared and Western Grebes. We had lots of Double-crested Cormorants, a variety of gulls, and the ever-present squadron of Brown Pelicans. The seas were pretty high this day, which impeded our search for shearwaters and petrels, but we enjoyed the adventure of the ride. Several went up top to catch the wind in their hair. We followed the outline of the coast until it was out of site, Rick recounting a misadventure of someone lost and never found. Brown- and Blue-footed Boobies were the most numerous seabirds; they would sail by on those marvelous long wings and dance with the wind, sea, and sky. As we approached the island we saw long lines of them, also Double-crested Cormorants, which bore bright white breeding plumes.
 

It was delightful to duck out of rough seas on the leeward side of the island -a fantasy-land experience as well, as about 3,000 California Sea Lions greeted us. Carl was enchanted, as we all were. The gangs of teenage sea lions that came right up to the boat, touching and investigating the anchor line, thrilled Polly. Lisa and Lynn combed through the thousands of birds perched on cliffs - boobies, cormorants, and pelicans. Regina spotted three Magnificent Frigatebirds, perched boldly out on a jutting rock, which gave us some very good views. We discussed marine mammals, seabird energetics, and then just relaxed with lunch fixed by Emily. It's hard to describe the hope and exhilaration we felt to see a place so sheltered from exploitation and so rich in natural life. It was reminiscent of the Galapagos Islands in many respects - even though closer to home -- and it left an indelible mark on our souls.
 

Many of the group participated in a research count of the sea lions, while Peg scanned for rarer birds, breeding birds, and signs of timing in seabird nesting. She spotted a Peregrine Falcon sitting quietly in a cave, just waiting for the next dinner. Heermann's Gulls were abundant and begging about the fishing boats. Regina took some great photos with her digital camera. Jan kept a giant grin on her face, loving every moment. Ernest was delighted to see us enjoying the islands as much as he did. We pronounced it a great day, by any standards.
 

Our return trip was blessed by calmer seas and a glimpse of a Red-billed Tropicbird flying close to the boat. Back in port, we celebrated with dinner and margaritas at the Casa de Capitan atop the town's namesake, Rocky Point.
 

Tuesday, December 9 Pinacate Reserve, Sonora Mexico

We started the day back at Rosie's, which was packed with locals but worth the wait. Thus fortified, we met Rick and Emily north of town and headed for the wilds of the Pinacate. This was Tim's favorite part of the journey, and it's easy to see why. Wide, open spaces as far as the eye can see beckon you off the road.
 

We met with the ranger at the Visitor Center, a small place but with an obviously proud staff dedicated to the mission of protecting this very unique area. They had displays on the flora and fauna and a timeline showing the development of several of the large craters we would visit on our route today. Leaving the road, the gate, and half the world behind, Peg got to do some real recreational driving -- wavering about in deep sand around desert curves brushing Palo Verde, Ironwood, and Cholla on either side. We stopped several times to discuss geology and desert plant adaptations, and to get out to stretch. October rains had brought forth treasures - leaves of Sand Lilies, new leaves on Creosote Bushes, first blooming flowers. The tall shield volcano, called Santa Clara or Pinacate Peak, dominated the landscape; but as soon as our eyes would wander we'd pick up other patterns in the volcanics, in the vegetation, in the large scale of landscape.
 

We wandered a bit in awe as we asked many questions, eventually finding our way to the lip of Crater Elegante, a magnificent site. Floating high on the thermals in the distance, Lisa spotted what very much looked like a Swainson's Hawk. But it was too far to identify, and a Swainson's would be out of season here, so we had to let that one go. But not the Peregrine she next called out - this bird came right overhead and circled, just to make sure we got all the field clues. We lingered at the rim, looking at patterns of ash and lava and at Elephant Trees, a warmth-loving shrub that won't brave the cold found north of this realm. We recounted adventures and misadventures, and hoped with all our might no one would ever crowd this place.
 

On to lunch, taking a back road that was warmed by dark volcanic cinders and camaraderie. Peg read of Julian Hayden, the early master explorer and archaeologist of the Pinacate. We wandered up into the cinders, Polly leading the pack up a slippery, red rock trail. There we found cacti clinging to rock, windows in the lava that framed Organ Pipe Cactus, queer beetles, butterflies in December, and more.

 

Then we moved on to Cerro Colorado, another chasm with a vibrant character defined by color, texture, and light. After Rick's interpretation we were quiet here, listening to Rock Wren, scanning for Great Horned Owls, and drinking in the sense of space. The day passed all too quickly. We wound our way out through the deep sand and winding turns, and soon were back on the highway, headed for the U.S. and our welcome at the Guest House in Ajo. Mike made us feel very much at home, listening to our adventures -- which we reviewed again at our final dinner at the restaurant Ajo Lily's. We shared a rare time in a place little visited by eco-tourists; a trip we hope to repeat!

 

Wednesday, December 10 Tucson/ Departure

Driving back to Tucson, we came to a halt when Peg and Lisa spotted a Crested Caracara perched up on a Saguaro Cactus, soon joined by a Gilded Flicker. Harkening back to the basket frenzy of the trip's first day, we stopped to shop at the Trading Post on the Tohono O'odham Reservation. This was followed by a very quick look at waterfowl at the Avra Valley Sewage Ponds - a stray Horned Grebe and several nice male Canvasback being the prizes. Soon our flock would scatter, several staying on in Tucson to enjoy the sun and culture, others flying home. A great first trip to Peñasco and the Pinacate!

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