Point Pelee
May 12-19, 2006 - Trip Report
A shared departure with Quest Nature Tours
Guides: Jean Iron, Tony Beck and Peg Abbott

Fri., May 12 Toronto / Long Point
Most of us arrived in Toronto the previous day to be ready for our 10:00 am start. We met Quest guide Jean Iron and the Quest Nature Tours participants about 40 minutes outside of Toronto and then caravanned west to Long Point, one of Canada’s premier migratory hotspots.

Masses of swallows circled near our first overlook of Long Point Bay, and a brilliant male Baltimore Oriole came in for close inspection. Wind and rain had kicked up waves in the bay, but in a quiet cove we found some resting Dunlin in breeding plumage. In light mist, we set up spotting scopes on a small pond at the visitor’s center, where we got good looks at Spotted, Solitary, and Least Sandpipers, Short-billed Dowitcher, and Green Heron. Some excellent displays outlined research that Bird Studies Canada has been conducting.

Another visitor informed us that there were a lot of warblers at Long Point Provincial Park, so we spent our last hour or so of the day at the Tip. We walked slowly through the campground, checking out the trees just leafing out for Magnolia, Yellow-rumped, and Cape May Warblers. Scarlet Tanagers were a big hit, as were Rose-breasted Grosbeaks. Peg spotted our first Indigo Bunting amid large numbers of White-throated and White-crowned Sparrows. It seemed like the birds were just raining down from the trees – what a way to start our journey! Driving away we spotted a mother Killdeer with four young – endearing and active little fuzzballs she brooded when disturbed. At dinner we shared introductions and made a first stab at our already impressive bird list.

Sat., May 13 Long Point Bird Observatory / Long Point Provincial Park
We left early this morning, excited to return to the park and vicinity for some more outstanding birding. It was a lovely clear morning -- unexpected after forecasts of rain -- so we thoroughly enjoyed views of the local farmland, with fields of young ginseng, peanuts, tomatoes, and tobacco. We stopped first at the Old Cut Field Station, where the bird observatory staff normally band birds each day of the migratory season, but today nets were closed as they were holding their fund-raising birdathon. Teams of local birders were at the station, taking a break for donuts and coffee, and Jean and Tony compared notes with them to choose our best areas.

The nearby loop trail offered us fabulous views of a Cape May Warbler in a spruce tree; later Peg spotted a Northern Parula. We got quick views of Ovenbird and many looks at male and female Rose-breasted Grosbeak. Along the causeway, we pulled over to see a beautiful pair of Canvasbacks, a pair of Mute Swans, and several duck species -- including Gadwall and Blue-winged Teal.

At a picturesque spot near the beach, birds feeding low in the shrubbery gave us some great lunchtime entertainment; Betty was amazed to find three male Blackburnian Warblers at very close range. They were soon joined by male Black-throated Green Warbler, a host of Cedar Waxwing and other species. Before leaving the lunch area we walked over the dunes to a remarkable wild beach on the shores of Lake Erie. Polly picked up polished stones, several took photographs, and all breathed in the lovely fresh air.

We then headed inland, making several stops in an outstanding patch of Carolinian Forest at Backus Woods. Entering this lush green realm with trees towering overhead and carpets of trillium and other wildflowers was a magical experience, especially for the westerners of our group. Jan spotted Jack-in-the-Pulpit and False Lily of the Valley, and Maggie pointed out a Red Trillium right by the vans. We found the rather rare Cerulean Warbler right away: a singing male that lingered in the canopy quite awhile before moving to a lower branch, affording us better views. What a beauty! Stopping a second time, Phyllis spotted the more subtle but also lovely female.

We could have stayed for hours, but the afternoon was marching on, and Jean urged us on to other spots. We tried for Prothonotary Warbler at a wetland area in the forest, and then moved out into the open to check for Eastern Bluebirds at a farm with several nest boxes. We found them, and had great looks in the scope. Further down the road we were delighted by easy views of a Red-headed Woodpecker as it investigated food caches in the telephone poles. For several the Vesper Sparrow was new; and for all the Horned Larks in the scope were a treat.

At our final stop, Don asked a local farmer about several of the crops and about the appearance and operation of the small tobacco houses we were seeing. We found out the barns were painted to match the colors of the tobacco companies to which they sold. While many now provide only storage, it was interesting to hear how they once dried this lucrative crop inside. We were fortunate to have super looks at Grasshopper Sparrow in the farmer’s field before calling it a day. Dinner at Christian’s, where local pickerel was the evening special, gave us a chance to review the day.

Sun., May 14 Rondeau Provincial Park, Ontario
After breakfast (and Tony’s gracious assistance with our bags) we headed west on the main highway toward the next spit of land that projects south into Lake Erie, providing a rest stop for migrant birds. We were not sure how we’d top yesterday’s birding blitz, but kept up with ease. This time of year is just magical in southern Ontario, as fruit trees and native flowering trees such as dogwood are in full bloom. The forest floor was equally dazzling, with myriad trillium, Large-flowered Bellwort, Mayapple, Solomon’s Seal, both yellow and purple violets and other wildflowers of the northern woods.

We stopped first along the lakeshore, checking for Forster’s Terns, shorebirds, and ducks, then went directly to a patch of forest known to be a haven for the endangered Prothonotary Warbler. Gwyneth and Phyllis both said, “just leave me here all day” as we selected a perch by the beautiful wetland. While we waited for our target bird, several other species of warbler entertained us: beautiful Yellow, Black-throated Blue, Blackburnian, and Black-and-White Warblers all fed amid the mossy logs, sculptured trunks, and greening vegetation. We heard the Prothonotory several times; then fortune smiled upon us and it appeared and stayed out for all to see. Nest boxes have been placed in the area to encourage nesting; Rondeau remains the species’ stronghold here at the north of their range in Canada.

We left reluctantly, but Jean promised other good sightings and she was right. After a break at the Visitor’s Center, we spent a few hours on the Tulip Trail, winding through ferns and wildflowers, odd-looking fungi, and tall interlocking deciduous forest. The tulip trees were just in bud; new leaves on oak and maple attracted the warblers. What a treat to encounter some seemingly tame birds: Black-throated Green and Magnolia Warblers perched very close for excellent views. A Northern Waterthrush put on a good show, and we found a secretive Veery. A pair of Rusty Blackbirds proved to be a life bird for several in our group, nudging Gwyneth’s list up to 498!

We had a picnic lunch at a sheltered group site, with many seeking the sun after a blustery morning. Cedar Waxwings flew overhead, as did Red-bellied and Red-headed Woodpeckers. We finally had a crack at flycatcher identification, with the appearances of Eastern Phoebeand Least and Willow Flycatchers. Blackburnian Warblers were turning out to be one of our most common species, interrupted at times by appearance of a Nashville Warbler, a Yellow-throated Vireo, or a fat Raccoon waddling down the road!

In the middle of the afternoon -- after the challenge of identifying an aberrant Swamp Sparrow -- we headed into Chatham to settle into our accommodations and enjoy dinner at Kelsey’s. About half of our gung-ho group were keen to go back to the park with Tony to listen for sounds of Whip-poor-will or Chuck-will’s Widow; others opted for an early night and time to absorb all the beauty and beasts we had seen! Linda reported great views of an Opossum, calls of the Whip-poor-will, as well as quick glances at Woodcock flying overhead.

Mon., May 15 Rondeau National Park / Lagoon Road / Chatham
This morning we returned to beautiful Rondeau National Park to walk the Spicebush Trail. Tulip Trees were just leafing out, and several of us were distracted from birding by the incredible show of wildflowers on the forest floor. It was hard to look down and up at the same time, but Jean and Tony called out what they saw, so we had the luxury of doing a bit of both. We found mixed groups of warblers, lots of Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, and a few new species, such as Red-bellied and Pileated Woodpeckers. We had a Tennessee Warbler and its look alike, the Philadelphia Vireo, at close range, as well as Blue-headed Vireo. A Prothonotary Warbler fed among fallen logs in watery realm of the forest – both it and it’s reflection in the water shone like flashlights -- what a joy! A singing Northern Waterthrush put on a good show as well.

We had our picnic lunch at the same ramada as the day before, where the Cedar Waxwings entertained us once again. Doug and Teresa came back from a short walk to announce “Indigo Bunting!” so we all took off to see this gorgeous bird. To our delight it was accompanied by two Field Sparrows. We also found a group of Bobolink near the restrooms – so not a moment passed without exciting sightings!

As no birding trip was complete without a trip to a local sewage lagoon, we left Rondeau to venture out to those of nearby Blenheim. In one of the far ponds, we found a flotilla of bright male Ruddy Ducks, a Lesser Yellowlegs in breeding plumage, a breeding colony of Ring-billed Gulls, and -- thanks to Betty’s sharp eyes -- a pair of Wilson’s Phalarope. which were a new species for many in our group. After some fine scope views, we turned to the neighboring alfalfa fields, where Boblink put on a good show.

Dinner at Crabby Joe’s was less than memorable – win some and lose some when seeking good local restaurants! A few hearty participants returned with Tony to Rondeau after dinner to check out a few night birds.

Tues., May 16 St. Clair National Wildlife Area / Pt. Pelee
Jean knew of a pond where Yellow-headed Blackbird, rare for Ontario, occurred, so this morning we headed out to find them. We got super scope looks, and John lined out scope views of Common Moorhen as well. Green and Great Blue Herons flew overhead; we also saw a Black-crowned Night-Heron, our first for the trip.

From here we drove south to more extensive marshes at St. Clair, but found this area to be very quiet. Don and Jan got great photos of a Common Yellowthroat, and Linda was delighted to watch the courtship feeding of a pair of Forster’s Tern; Tony was feeling happily “twitchy” and urging us to move on to find more birds. Well we did – and we had a super lunch at Paula’s Fish House near Pt. Pelee, where Fresh Yellow Perch was a great hit with all.

Just after lunch, we entered Pt. Pelee National Park. After checking the sightings board at the visitor’s center, we walked the Tilden Woods Trail for some great birding. A banner day – Gwyneth scored two more life list birds to reach her goal of 500 North American birds. No. 500 was a very wet Black-billed Cuckoo, trying to dry out and perching most cooperatively. Congratulations Gwyneth! Dinner this evening was in a lovely location on Lake Erie, we enjoyed it thoroughly.

Wed., May 17 Point Pelee / Dance of the Pelicans
We had a quick and early breakfast to be off for Pt. Pelee, where we hoped some fantastic birds would await us at Canada’s southernmost point known as The Tip. We parked and headed off for the tram, which was just packed. We piled a few people on laps and eagerly awaited departure. A Carolina Wren was working on a nest right at the exhibit area where we unloaded, and a sleepy Raccoon seemed to pose for photos. There were a number of migrants singing, including a lovely male Blue-winged Warbler. In the flock of gulls at The Tip we spied a Laughing Gull, a good find for this part of Ontario. Tony and Jean, our Quest guides, seemed to know everyone we met; indeed Point Pelee had the feel of a major event. Today the birding was slow, but that did not deter us. Fortified by coffee and donuts, we investigated other areas of the park.

Some called it an early day to rest up a bit, while the rest of the group ventured out to nearby Hillman Marsh, checking for shorebirds en route along the local onion fields. Great Egrets were feeding in the first part of the marsh; but the highlight came on the wing as if arriving on que for a performance – the Dance of Pelicans. What a treat to see a large flock of huge White Pelicans, joined by Sandhill Cranes, come down to light before the group! After a full day, it was definitely time to catch up on our bird list and enjoy dinner at Spago’s, a local Leamington restaurant.

Thurs., May 18 Point Pelee Hotspots / In Search of Woodcocks…
At 5:30 am it was raining buckets, and it looked like it might be one long day. The wine tour in Leamington seemed very enticing at this point, but as too early for that we soldiered on to the point. Much to delight, the skies began to lighten as we waited for the tram to The Tip. Within an hour we had sunshine and just a splendid day! We also had a very productive morning with sightings of several new birds – Red-breasted Merganser, White-winged Scoter, and the most notable, a Lesser Black-backed Gull that was near other gulls to facilitate comparisons. Walking back we had superb looks at Indigo Bunting, and a treat for all – newly arriving Bay-breasted Warblers.

Mid-morning donuts and coffee were a welcome treat; after checking the sightings board we moved inland towards the DeLaurier Cabin and farm site. Here we had super looks at Cooper’s and later Broad-winged Hawks. We walked several trails hoping for White-eyed Vireo and other songbirds; then turned our attentions to water birds at both the Marsh Viewing Area and at another spot near the entrance.

Tonight we had planned an early dinner and then a nighttime search for Woodcock, so we took a nice break at the hotel, before returning to Paula’s for a delicious dinner. Several selected the incredibly fresh Yellow Perch or Pickerel. A beautiful evening awaited us, with dramatic clouds and a chill in the air. Doug saw the first bird, and soon we had several in the air at one time – little dynamos hurling themselves skyward to display. Fast wings and fancy vocalizations ensure a male’s breeding success, and tonight they performed in style. Jean saved this one for last, what a great way to end the trip. With with a huge smile on her face, Veronica said, “this rivals the Bat Cave you took us to in the Hill Country!”

Fri., May 19 Early birding / Return to Toronto
This morning we split into two vans, as many of Peg’s participants had to make flights out of Toronto. Tony knew of a birding spot en route; it turned out to be pretty quiet with one great exception – a sighting of an Olive-sided Flycatcher. Soon we were on the highway and heading toward the city. Luckily we had little traffic, and we at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Despite some wet weather challenges, we fared very well on our shared journey with Quest Nature Tours to the lovely Carolinean Forests and migratory hotspots of Canada.

Photo Credits:
All photos by Peg Abbott.

Close This Window