Peru - For Women Only
July 29 – Aug. 10, 2006 - Trip Report

Fri., July 28 & Sat., July 29 Arrival in Lima
Seven of our group of 11 women opted to arrive early to take in the sights of Lima. Everyone woke and explored at their leisure. It was Independence Day, one of the busiest Peruvian holidays of the year, so quite a few museums were closed. Instead we took in the sights of the city, walking or going by taxi to the trendy Miraflores district.

It was a beautiful day and people were out enjoying the beach, parasailing along the cliffs, shopping and dining at the waterfront cafes. It was fun to enjoy a delicious lunch with no schedule and just watch all the local activity. Peg took a taxi to the private Museo Larco, where she enjoyed the amazing collection of pre-Columbian art. By then it was getting cool and foggy, a great excuse to buy an alpaca vest and scarf!

Sun., July 30 Flight to Cusco / Sacred Valley
Our early flight to Cusco was early indeed: 5:30 a.m. and a brutal transition for those coming in the night before. Flying over the Andes, the light was tremendous on snow-capped peaks and the sand colored folds of the foothills. July is the dry season, and the west side of the Andes near Cusco appears barren, a striking contrast to these snowy high peaks. It was a short flight, and soon we were reorganizing at our hotel in Cusco before heading out to sightsee in the Sacred Valley.

The combination of an early start and high elevation cast a pleasant blur on this day for many of us, but what an impressive valley! To reach it, we crossed a high windswept pass then descended to the Urubamba River and the irrigated fields. People were out working the rich soil with tilling sticks and teams of bulls, preparing their crops for the year. We stopped to photograph a few of the scenes, and Lidia, our local guide, pointed out the small folk art decorations atop many homes, which are offerings for protection.

We then went to the Sunday market at Pisac, a show of color beyond description. Lidia guided us through a maze of handicraft booths to reach an open area where locals gathered to buy and sell grains, potatoes, beans, spices, squashes, and more. It was great fun to see the produce, catch the scents of meal vendors’ offerings, and observe the variety of colorful, patterned garments of people from different villages. We had free time to shop for handicrafts – textiles, dolls, sweaters, scarves, beads, paintings, and intricate appliqués. Children posed for photos, holding young goats, puppies, or -- outside the market -- hugging their favorite llama.

After all this activity we relaxed with lunch at a peaceful country hotel, taking the opportunity to sample some of the local dishes. Warm soup, luscious potato balls, spinach, fresh fish, and other entrees were a treat; we sat outside with a great view of the mountains. Rufous-collared Sparrows flitted about looking for crumbs. We’d have to wait longer to see more birds however, for the centuries of human use, arid climate, and high elevation had erased most of the native vegetation of this valley as it had in Cusco. All around us were stark hills, impressive cliffs and behind them, the snow-covered mountains. Inca ruins -- terraced hillsides, parts of buildings, canals for water – were common, and many were integrated into existing homes and farms.

We drove through the valley to reach Ollantaytambo in the afternoon. Despite hordes of tourists, the spiritual nature of the site was evident as we climbed many stairs for a spectacular view of the adjacent mountain. The stonework, weathered for centuries, was still exquisite; it was amazing to walk through the terraces and plazas. On our ride back to Cusco in the late afternoon, many of us were awestruck by the beauty of the mountain realm, the spectacular light, and a landscape of such immense scale.

Mon., July 31 Cusco / Tambomachay / Sacsayhuaman
This morning we explored the countryside and two rather amazing archaeological sites close to Cusco. Tambomachay included a bit of natural history, as native vegetation lined a small creek leading up the site. Lidia was with us to interpret the spring and its significance, and to point out smaller Inca buildings along the way. Sacsayhuaman captivated us all: its amazing plaza, with a mix of Inca rock work and natural geologic features is just stunning. The imposing scale of the ruins, coupled with the powerful and accurate rock work led to many questions, and we kept Lidia busy for hours talking.

We returned to Cusco for lunch and free time to explore the city’s picturesque narrow streets, crowded with vendors selling colorful handicrafts. At the local history museum we found quiet respite and had an interesting interchange with local weavers from a woman’s cooperative. In the evening we ventured out for dinner at La Retama, where we sampled a wonderful variety of local cuisine and enjoyed a show of local dancing.

Tues., Aug. 1 Cusco / Train to Machu Picchu
We had another early wakeup call, but not as early as in Lima, phew! We boarded the train by 8:00 am, and were soon on our way up the switchback grades that make this route a notable piece of engineering. At first the countryside was quite open, after Ollantaytambo, however, we entered a steep-walled canyon clad in a fascinating mix of native shrubs, cacti, and bromeliads. Traveling alongside the Urubamba River, which became wilder and stronger as we ascended, we had a great time spotting Torrent Ducks and White-capped Dipper. We had a nice welcome the delightful Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, and all looked forward to time on our porches, walking the grounds, tasting the delicacies noted on the menu, and being pampered a bit. But first, adventure called!

After settling our things, we walked through the narrow streets of Aguas Calientes to board buses that navigate the steep ascent to Machu Picchu. It’s amazing that in our well traveled group, no one had yet seen this magnificent World Heritage Site. Indeed, we found it far exceed any expectations. Just the setting alone is humbling, and the first view of extensive ruins lying between the huge rock monoliths, with the Urubamba River encircling the site thousands of feet below had a great impact on us all.

We had a good part of the day to explore, and even with that, we only covered the top half of the site. We asked myriad questions and thoroughly appreciated Lidia’s thorough knowledge and careful delivery. We took a lot of photos, and wandered at will. The crowds were a bit daunting, and several thought an early return the next day might be a better time to explore the lower section.

Peg lit up and realized we’d have time for some birding – including a search for the elusive and beautiful Andean Cock of the Rock. We took the bus back down, getting off near the river to walk along the train tracks. Before even getting to the cliff area famous for our bright orange target bird, we found some gems in the lush vegetation: Rust and Yellow Tanager, Silver-backed Tanager, Black-whiskered Puffbird, and Andean Guan. We walked a good distance and had turned around when Lidia spotted the Andean Cock of the Rock male. We got splendid views for quite some time, on a variety of perches. He led us to his female, and at one time they perched together for several minutes! We had quite a walk back to town -- especially Karen and Peg, who they followed the train tracks and had to pass through several tunnels!

Dinner at the lodge was great fun, as we had both Carol Comeau’s and Charlotte Miska’s birthdays to celebrate. A cake with candles was quite a surprise, and a challenge to consume after we’d feasted on their fresh fava bean and feta cheese salads, homemade soup, and some fine entrees.

Wed., Aug 2 Birding at the Hotel / Return to Machu Picchu Ruins
Today was a great chance for the birders to be with a fine local guide and search for the smaller species often hard to identify – flycatchers, warblers, and more. We met at 6:30 after some coffee, and walked for several hours on trails of the lodge. We found a number of species (bird list to follow) and also learned a lot about local plants, many of which were at peak bloom.

By 9:30 we went back up to the ruins, planning to walk to the Sun Gate and to look for the endemic Inca Wren. Peg had a few tips on where to look, but we knew it would be challenging. Finally patience and a bit of pishing paid off: we got some great looks at the Inca Wren.

We then descended to the lower part of the ruins we had not seen and got first hand looks at the Temple of the Condor, the astronomy tower and more. By the end of the day, we had a new perspective on the function of Machu Picchu as an agricultural and forest experiment area, needed as the Inca expanded their influence into the higher Andes.

Returning to town and the hotel, we had a late lunch and time to relax before again meeting Dennis, our local guide, for an afternoon birdwalk. Highland Motmot proved to be celebrity at this time, so bright and bold. We saw several pair, and one shocked us all by capturing a huge and colorful moth we’d turned our attentions to! He showed us two cages where they were hoping to rehabilitate rare Spectacled Bear for return to the wild; we saw their sleeping forms tucked back in rock dens.

Another great meal, the chance to email loved ones back home, and some nice wine with conversation filled our evening well! By now we were getting to know each other well and enjoyed having time to share our stories and lives – no lack of gab on a woman’s tour!

Thurs., Aug. 3 Morning at Machu Picchu / Train Back to Cusco
We had one more full morning to explore the local area. Carol Simon elected to return quite early to Machu Picchu and thoroughly enjoyed some time without the crowds to explore and take it all in. Our birders arranged for a custom walk with Dennis back to the river and the Andean Cock of the Rock site. One of our favorite sightings was a family of Torrent Duck with small chicks, playing in amazingly strong current. Carol Comeau reported seeing the same from the porch while enjoying a leisurely breakfast – nice when the birds come to you! We took the afternoon train back to Cusco, arriving in time for an evening meal and to organize our things to meet the weight limit on the next day’s small-plane ride to Manu. Many of us had to expand our suitcases to fit all our treasures from the various markets and vendors!

Fri., Aug. 4 Flight to Manu / Manu National Park and Lodge
The morning flight took us right over the head of Sacred Valley, affording a peek of the ruins at Ollantaytambo. Leaving dry and relatively barren Cusco, we rose over the Andes in our 12-seater plane. Small patches of forest rimmed the ridge above the Sacred Valley. Large open grassland covered much of the hills, and we had superlative views of snow-capped peaks in the distance.

But the crest of the Andes was most impressive: within a few hundred meters, as we passed to the wet eastern side, the vegetation changed strikingly. Once into the carpet of green, we saw thick forest with huge emergent trees spreading forever below us. Tributaries of the Madre de Dios River threaded through the green blanket, but oh, what a sight, all that uncharted land. Indeed, this is one of the largest intact tracts of rainforest left in the world – and we had several days to explore it!

Near the mouth of the Manu River we found our tiny airstrip, and soon were unloading our gear and heading to the river to meet our canoe transport to the lodge. A Pale-winged Trumpeter, obviously tamed by the villagers, met us at the airstrip, and accompanied us to the tiny restaurant the locals had set up to greet us. Red-bellied Macaws and Violaceous Jays flew overhead.

We boarded the boat, Mary enjoying the water and wind in her hair immensely. The river was broad, but shallow, and we were fortunate to have a skilled crew. Our ride was a couple of hours, enhanced broken up by sightings of Pied Plover, Horned Screamer, Swallow-wing Puffbird, and other species. We arrived in time for lunch, much welcomed after our very early start.

Settling into our little casitas, we prepared for the heat we’d experience for the next few days. Several opted for a nap and gentle garden walk, while others joined Monica for several hours of birding and walking one of the trails. She shared a lot of knowledge on forest structure and processes as we walked, pointing out plants and birds as we happened on them. We did get fine looks at Screaming Piha and found a wild flock of Pale-winged Trumpeter. Standing inside a huge Strangler Fig and looking up to the sky was quite an experience. Sounds of cicada and other insects became louder as darkness fell. Time for popcorn and pisco sours!

Sat., Aug. 5 Parrot & Macaw Lick / Manu Rainforest
We woke early for our dawn boat ride to the parrot lick. We wanted to be in the blind as early as possible, and the staff were kind to bring our breakfast and hot coffee along. This particular lick is known for the large numbers of Red and Green Macaws that frequent it. The lick was already active as we got settled, primarily Mealy and Blue-headed Parrots joined by a variety of smaller parrotlets and parakeets. The birds were reluctant to fly down to the clay bank; they flew in and out, descending in the tree canopy as if drawn by a magnet.

Just as about 60 Red and Green Macaws were about to land, an alarm call of Blue and Yellow Macaws sent them spiraling. So the dance began again. Thanks to the patience of our guides and group, we waited until they did come in, and were able to watch them rip chunks of mineral rich clay from the banks. Two Red-throated Carcaras sent the flocks flying a few times, but we enjoyed watching other birds as we waited. The distance between our perch and the clay bank made photographing difficult, but in binoculars one could see full frame macaw faces – marvelous!

We returned for lunch very satisfied, and tried to take siestas in the mid day heat. Our excellent local birding guide, Monica led an afternoon walk in which we covered little distance – we got hung up at a magical tree, where we found 15-20 species of amazing tropical birds. We worked hard to find them 100 feet or higher in the dense canopy, some with more success than others. Leaving here, we encountered a troop of Woolly Monkeys, feeding in a heavily laden fruit tree with Blue-throated Piping Guans and a male Bare-necked Fruitcrow – wow! To end the day we went by boat on a Spectacled Caiman search which proved to be most successful.

Three of our party headed out for a Tapir Prowl, hiking several miles to another salt lick. The lodge had set up cots with mosquito netting for observers to wait until dark. En route they got great looks at a troop of Red Howler Monkeys. They heard the Tapir, but with so much moonlight it was too shy to come in. Walking back was an adventure, and with Marlena, our other local guide, they found some great insects and spiders.

Sun., Aug. 6 Blanco Oxbow Lake / Trails of Manu
We had another full day at Manu, and very much enjoyed our excursion by boat on shallow Blanco Oxbow Lake. We were a bit disappointed not to find the elusive family of Giant Otter that patrol this area, another lake, and the river that connects them; but we did see a fascinating array of aquatic life – from a huge Black Caiman to the tiny Rufous and Green Kingfisher. We found a Limpkin, several Hoatzin, a Black-collared Hawk, and many Wattled Jacana.

By mid day it was extraordinarily HOT, so we returned for lunch and much welcomed cold drinks. Even a siesta was difficult in the heat; we sought out the hammocks in the cooler library room, chairs on the porch with a breeze, or our individual pursuits of reading, relaxing, and photography to distract us.

By 3:00 it was starting to cool down, so Monica led us on a hunt for nesting Ornate Hawk Eagle. While the nest was no longer active (it had been two weeks earlier), we did get great looks at several forest species, including the large and agile Wooly Monkeys. We had a short cooking demonstration in the lodge’s simple kitchen – a wonder they could feed us all so efficiently! It was particularly fun for those of us who had worked at various research stations over the years to compare notes about those sites and this remote location. The symphony of night sounds lulled us to sleep – quite a contrast to the cacophony we heard each dawn!

Mon., Aug 7 Return by River & Plane to Cusco
Guess what, an early morning departure! We had our three hour return upriver, and wanted to be on a morning flight to avoid turbulence over the Andes. Our smooth, efficient flight arrived in time for us to have a shopping binge in Cusco. What fun! Several of us made our way to a woman’s weaving cooperative, now the challenge was adding bulky textiles to our burgeoning suitcases.

Tonight was a free night for dinner; most were comfortable with a simple meal in the foyer of our hotel. We also enjoyed our more historic rooms this visit, in the older part of the hotel above the open central lobby.

Peg received very sad news via email that one of her horses was seriously injured, a broken bone in the hoof. After much consideration, she elected to change her flight and join those going back late at night after the final dinner in Lima. Carol Comeau graciously offered to take over logistics for the extension. Such support of our most compatible group will be forever appreciated!

Tues., Aug 8 Cusco / Lima
Of course, yet another early departure! But that gave us plenty of time to explore Lima, so no one really minded. We had independent time in the morning, some ventured off to the well-known Gold Museum and others went to the art museum. There we found textiles in profusion, many from the Paracas area that extension participants would soon visit. The pottery spanned centuries and many groups of peoples, the Inca being only one of the Andes’ many past cultures.

We had lunch at our various museums before meeting back at the hotel for an afternoon city tour narrated by Olivia, our host while in Lima. She offered great insights into the historical structures – churches, theatres, political buildings.

 

Post-tour Extension:
PARACAS & the Bellestas Islands
Aug. 9-12, 2006
Having bid a fond farewell to three of the Peru participants (as well as Peg), the remaining seven women journeyed south to the coastal town of Paracas, which sits just outside the Paracas National Reserve. This reserve encompasses the nearby Bellestas Islands, considered by many a miniature version of the Galapagos Islands.

The Bellestas rise steeply out of the sea, their gleaming guano-covered slopes providing nesting space for thousands of Peruvian Booby as well as a starkly beautiful haven for sea lions and seabirds.

At the shorebird site, the extension participants -- accompanied by Guillermo, their extremely knowledgeable and charming local guide -- found Collared Plover, Snowy Plover, Sanderling, the beautiful Inca Tern, and a variety of other gulls and terns. A real treat was seeing the odd-looking Peruvian Thick-knee, as well as Burrowing Owl. South American specialties included Coastal and Grayish Miner, as well as Seaside Cincloides.

During the three-day stay, the group enjoyed seaside accommodations with outstanding views, walks on the vast, windswept beaches, and time to observe the local fishing fleet.

Photo Credits:
A special thanks to trip participant Karen Worcester for the following photos: # 1 (flight to Cusco), #4 (Ollantaytambo), #8 (walking along RR tracks), # 9 (Machu Picchu structure), #11 (Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel), #12 (aerial view of the Madre de Dios River), #17 (Snake Eye Moth at night), and #21 (group in Lima).

A special thanks to trip participant Joette Warren for the three Paracas extension photos featured here.

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