Peru - Nature and Culture
January 12-23, 2008 - Trip Report
Peg Abbott, with local guides Leo in Machu Picchu and Silvario in Amazonia (Posada Amazonas and Tambopata) and eight participants

Sat. Jan. 12 Arrival in Lima
Our group assembled in Peru’s main, bustling city today, with several arriving from Quito, where they enjoyed a week in the Galapagos Islands followed by a few days to explore the Andes. This trip was an extension of Ecuador for four of the group, with four arriving mainly for our grand exploration of Peru.

Sun. Jan. 13 Lima to Cuzco / Sacred Valley / Ollantaytambo
We had a 7:00 AM pickup to connect to our plane to Cuzco, and in no time at all were underway to the Andes! Clouds obscured our view as we crossed the Andes until we were close to Cuzco, where the complexity of the mountains around this high valley came into view. We landed quickly as there were strong side winds; Cuzco is a landing strip only for experienced pilots. We were met at the airport by the warm smiles of Hugo, the operations manager for Neblina Forest’s Peru contact, and Leo B----, our very skilled and personable guide. It was apparent from the start that Leo had enthusiasm, a big heart and, to our surprise, a look of being Peg’s brother with his red hair and freckles complimenting Peruvian features!

Mon. Jan. 14 Train to Machu Picchu / Birding Aguas Caliente Area
We boarded the train and the professional staff made us feel so welcome, with little gift boxes of food, hot tea and coffee and ever-present Peruvian smiles. We found beauty in the scenery right away, and birds, along the river seeing both Torrent Duck and White capped Dipper with ease. The pleasant scenery encompassed farm lands along the Urumbamba River, rural life, extensive Inca terraces, tall trees and grand mountains. We saw corn stalks as far as the eye could see a carpet of food grown since the days of Inca and still treasured today. The train ride was about an hour and a half long, with time saved by starting at the head of the Sacred Valley. At least it was intended to be an hour and a half long, but a major tree fall across the tracks caused us quite a delay. We still beat the Cuzco train arriving into the station, so check-in at our hotel was easy and soon we were free to explore. We checked out the hotel grounds before lunch, eventually seeing a Highland Motmot and a pair of Golden-olive Woodpeckers, both lovely finds. Mid-day birding was slow, so we elected to venture into town for our lunch, a grand buffet at Toto’s House, where we sat by windows facing the raging Urubamba River. Once again we ate TOO much, so an hour’s rest break was declared for all to recover. We then took the local bus to the start of the railway track, walking the track towards Mandor Valley in search of cloud forest birds. Renata, on her own between two parts of our group, spotted the first female Cock of the Rock; quite a find! Luckily in time most of the group was able to see this impressive species, after Deb had a glimpse of one in flight going back upstream, inspiring us to look that area over more thoroughly. Along the tracks, under the shadow of Machu Picchu, we saw a good variety of tanagers, Streaked and Inca Flycatchers and, a favorite for most, the small but very active Olivaceous Piculet. We walked until the last bus coming down picked us up, and then wandered a bit among the street vendors during the walk back to our hotel. A welcome Pisco Sour awaited us in the fireplace room, followed by a scrumptious dinner in the beautiful dining room, a lovely haven created with extensive wood and glass.

Tues. Jan. 15 Machu Picchu! / Rainy Afternoon Exploring
We awoke to light rain and mist after a night of very heavy rain – but still had high hopes for a great day atop Machu Picchu. Peg insisted we catch one of the first buses up the mountain, so a bit sleepy-eyed we did, and it was so worth it. It turned out that rain would follow for a couple of days so our timing was just right. For dramatic presentation, we could not have asked for more! Leo led us out to an overlook of the ruins where we could absorb the intricate series of plazas and buildings backed by massive peaks of the Andes. There are few words to describe the impact of this scene; one simply has to visit to take it all in! The ruins are perched on an intermountain plateau, backed by two sacred peaks, designed impeccably. Leo gave us a thorough overview of current interpretations of the site, encouraged us to do our own thinking, and then led us through the main gate. For several hours we wound our way between rooms and terraces, learning about architecture, agriculture, symbolism and lifestyle of the Incas. Wee learned that the stonework varied according to the sacred nature of the rooms; near the Sun Temple it reached almost absolute perfection. We experienced the ruins amid misty clouds, sun breaks, occasional blue skies and altogether dramatic lighting as conditions changed constantly throughout the morning. Nature graced all of our views, and intermittent wildflowers grew throughout, transforming the walls to gardens.

We were completely engrossed by the ruins, but Peg urged us to check for the endemic Inca Wren before descending the stairs to lunch, likely knowing it would be hard to get us to climb back up to the bamboo habitat they prize. To find them we walked the famous Inca Trail, towards the Sun Gate, though rain started in earnest and made birding more than a bit challenging. Donning rain ponchos and opening our umbrellas, we managed to persevere, and find the wren, Azara’s Spinetail, Blue-and-yellow Tanager and Golden-billed Saltator. An Andean Guan showed up to perch in plain view where we could admire its red throat and complex plumage striations. We rendezvoused for lunch, another grand buffet; then, as the rain would not stop, decided to return to the hotel for some down time at our delightful digs. An afternoon with a fire in the fireplace and time to do a bit of laundry, snooze or catch up on sorting photos was actually a nice treat. At about four some of us headed out, passing the hummingbird feeders that were ablaze with activity, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Long-tailed Sylph, and Sparkling Violetear being the main species. We saw a lot of fascinating plants in bloom, but little bird activity, until we found the banana feeders by the pool. There we had a fine show of tanagers, Blue-and-black proving to be the colorful favorite. Knowing a lovely dinner was in store; several of us had cut down a bit at lunch and were primed to enjoy another beautiful three-course meal as evening closed the day.

Wed. Jan 16. Spectacled Bear / Aquas Caliente / Return to Cuzco
This morning we joined Katia, a staff member at the hotel, on a guided walk to visit two Spectacled Bears that had been rescued from bad situations in zoos, originally with the initial thought of returning them to the wild. As the project unfolded, it was obvious that the bears were perhaps at risk in that situation, a condition we agreed with after seeing them enjoy their carefully laid out smorgasbord! The staff fed them in as natural a way as possible, making them explore, climb and move around. These were happy, well fed bears now; likely their fate will be that of education. Surely, we loved seeing these magnificent animals open eggs; climb to get an avocado, and generally use their amazing claws and jaws to feed. If others do as well, it will help cloud forest conservation and efforts to preserve their home.

We were lucky that a mixed flock of birds also came through the viewing area and enjoyed watching Connecticut Warbler, Russet-crowned Warbler, and Rufous-tailed and Cinnamon Flycatchers. We found Torrent Ducks again on the rushing river, and had good views of the Fasciated Tiger-Heron Marcyes had spotted from the balcony of the restaurant while at breakfast. Indeed breakfast, despite the rain, had brought a veritable bird explosion! Several of us had met early by the pool to search out tanagers, rewarded by views of Thick-billed Euphonia and Blue-gray and Blue-necked Tanagers at fairly close range. But at breakfast we had even more activity, with Mountain Wren, Torrent Tyrannulet and Black Phoebe putting on quite a show. We watched as Slate-throated Whitestarts carefully took large insects off the lights, and found a flock with Tropical Parula and Rust and Yellow Tanagers in close range.

Some elected to shop and explore town, while others chose to walk the road that parallels the Urubamba river beyond town, toward the direction of the railroad tracks we’d explored on our first afternoon. This stretch has large trees adjacent to the river, providing some excellent habitat. Karl spotted White-capped Dipper and an elegant male Torrent Duck posed perfectly for photos. In a mixed flock of tanagers Peg spotted a real prize, a thrush family member, the Andean Solitaire. Known to be hard to find, we had one at eye level, preening, and showing off all its field marks – WOW. We ran into a flock of tanagers, with Beryl-spangled and Silver-backed taking the prize for color. Time passed quickly and soon we rendezvoused once again for lunch, this time at the India Feliz, a local restaurant Peg had enjoyed previously. Here we had delicious salads, soups and locally raised trout as one of our entrée choices. The restaurant is by the main plaza of the small town, tucked in between a maze of shops that rivals Ecuador’s Otavalo Market. Several had a bit of repacking to do after picking up textiles and other treasures. Our train left about 5:00 PM, and this time traversed the tracks back to Ollantaytambo with ease. Hugo and the driver were there to pick us up, and we traveled another hour or so into Cuzco where we settled into our hotel quite close to the main Cathedral Square. This was beautiful at night with all the lights; a short walk after dinner was a nice way to stretch before turning in for the night.

Thurs., Jan. 17 Cuzco / Huacarpay Lake / Ruins of Sacsayhuaman
We started the day with a visit to the natural side of Cuzco, driving about an hour south to Huacarpay Lake, a great birding spot, now protected as a RAMSAR wetland site of international importance. We passed through several small rural towns, popular destinations for weekend outings for Peruvians. One town specializes in pork skin cracklings or chicharrones, another in roasted guinea pig, while another is known for homemade bread baked in an hornero (clay) oven. The landscape we passed through on the drive was rimmed by mountains throughout, and views from the lakeshore on arrival were quite spectacular. But our views were mainly trained through the scopes as we spotted so many birds – some 45 species in a few hours there. The lake was alive with Andean Coots, a variety of ducks, Andean Teal and numerous migrant shorebirds including Greater Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper and Pectoral Sandpiper. We also enjoyed many of the smaller birds, some quite unique to the area. Andean Negritos hopped about the higher open areas, while Yellow-winged Blackbirds patrolled the marsh. Many-colored Reed Warblers were quite common, both the male and female striking in their own way, and luckily for us providing good scope views. A bit more furtive but seen by all was the Wren-like Rushbird. At the lakeshore, we walked out to a blind for better views of White-tufted Grebe and Wilson’s Phalarope, which Caitlin discovered were following Yellow-billed Pintail around taking advantage of scraps, much as gulls do around feeding pelicans. Puna Ibis were quite numerous and several pair were close enough to photograph. We drove around the lake to an area with cliffs where we found Russet-fronted Canestero, White-crested Elaenia, Andean Lapwing, Giant Hummingbird and Hooded Siskin. A real treat was scope views of a Black-chested Buzzard Eagle that then took flight, showing off its striking plumage and form. And all of us, with patience, got great looks at Plumbeous Rail, which were fairly bold when viewed from higher ground.

In addition to all the birds, we photographed flowering shrubs of the region, and were intrigued seeing a woman walking her sheep up the road, followed by an adorable young puppy. On the lake, men were fishing in boats made of cut reed stalks. They checked their nets; an age-old, seemingly timeless activity. Men were also cutting and harvesting the reeds, bearing the burdens on their backs. We stayed at the lake for much of the morning, returning to Cuzco to explore the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman. This impressive World Heritage site, perched on a hill with a tremendous view of Cuzco, is fascinating and beautiful. The rock is from a quarry about 18 kilometers away, and Leo estimated that over 30,000 people worked on the site for over 40 years. We walked through a massive plaza, admiring stone work of perfectly fitting massive boulders, cut with fine angles, smooth-edged and perfect. The industry of the Inca is something to behold! We learned a lot once again from Leo, and atop the viewpoint were delighted when a Green-tailed Trainbearer came in for wonderful views. This bright, long-tailed hummingbird is an impressive one and this individual was unusually tame, feeding on flowers just beyond reach. We then enjoyed a delightful lunch; sitting perched up on the porch of one of the nicer restaurants overlooking the main plaza, with its grand churches, bright flowers and relentless activity. Maryces and Walter commented on how nice it was to sit there, sun pouring in, with time to just watch the busy life of the square.

After lunch, Leo took us on a tour of some of the historic areas of the city, walking past the twelve-sided stone where Andean rocks still rim the street, perfect placement making the walls a bold and timeless statement. We spent most of our time inside the Temple of the Sun, a remarkable combination of Andean and Spanish architectural influences. Leo gave us a lot of insight, a thoughtful reflection of his own life, which integrates the Inca and Andean heritage. “If I could only have five minutes to walk in Cuzco during Inca times….” He left us at the weaving cooperative where we got lost in the vibrant color and amazing craftsmanship. We all enjoyed several hours to explore at our leisure, and we met back for dinner at a modern restaurant with terra cotta walls, a nice ambiance and once again too much delicious food!

Fri., Jan. 18 Flight Over the Andes / Puerto Maldonado / Amazonia!
Many of the group enjoyed a leisurely morning, though Harry and Renata had an exciting time locking themselves into their room with a faulty security latch and having to be rescued! Walter went to a mass at one of the amazing churches on the square, enjoying organ and violin music. We left for the airport by 9:00 and just before noon our plane descended into a dense canopy of GREEN to arrive at Puerto Maldonado. Puerto Maldonado is a busy place, with streets filled with converted motorcycle taxis covered with plastic hoods. We went to the busy market to buy umbrellas and flashlights that some needed, and it was a great excuse to see a bit more of local life. Then we traveled a dirt back road by bus for an hour or so to a small store and the boat landing, where we walked a wooden plank to board. The motor was a strong one, needed to make our way up the rugged current of the Tambopata River, raging strong at this point in the rainy season, full and richly colored with a terra cotta sediment load. We immediately started seeing birds, White-banded and White-winged Swallow, Black and Turkey Vultures. At one point, Walter cried out excitedly, “King Vulture!” What a thrill. In all we saw four of these birds of wild terrain. The white in their wings glistened on this sunny day, backlit against huge white puffy clouds. As we continued clouds gathered and the light show on the river, framing the dense avenue of trees, was very dramatic. How Silvario, our guide, ever spotted the perfectly camouflaged roosting Ladder-tailed Nightjar we don’t know, but by floating back downriver we got quite close to it for wonderful views. We got to the lodge by mid-afternoon, listened to an orientation by the manager Malu, and soon were donning our rubber boots to walk to the Canopy Tower.

As another group had arrived on the same schedule, and headed to the tower ahead of us, Silvario elected to walk via a little-used route. It proved to reveal several good birds – Musician Wren and two members of the large antbird clan.

To our delight, Silvario found a poison dart frog, a green and black species which we got excellent views of. We talked about the various trees, fruits, and palms and before long he was saying, “We must accelerate a little if we are to reach the tower….” That was before the tree fall we navigated around, and before the immense tree fall we could not navigate around. Instead we launched ourselves over a poncho-clad stump (poncho courtesy of Caitlin) in whatever contortion we required, and finally connected back to the main trail. We got there just in time for the sunset, and had a magical half hour or so atop the world. There are some 180 steps up to the 37 meter platform, but as they are spaced five at a time it’s actually one of the more comfortable towers of several rainforest lodges. We had a breeze, no insects up top, and views of White-throated Toucan, Black-fronted Nun bird and a few other species. Best were all the sounds -- two species of infamous, a Spotted Wood Quail, barking toucans and more.

Coming back dark descended quickly, and we were lucky to spot a calling Tawny-bellied Screech Owl; what a little beauty!

Sat. Jan. 19 Posada Amazonas / Tres Chimbadas Oxbow Lake/ Tambopata River
We had a very early wake up call to make the effort to be at Tres Chimbadas Oxbow Lake as close to dawn as possible. The lodge made a nice breakfast for us and we were off by boat, taking sunrise photos as we pulled away from the landing. We rode upriver for about 15 minutes and then walked through bamboo and balsa forest for about half an hour. Our catamaran boat awaited us there. It was outfitted with a wooden platform and powered by hand, using a massive specially-designed metal oar which had been adapted from a Japanese design for cargo boats. Our driver handled the boat with ease, and soon we were threading through Pale-vented Pigeon, Black-capped Donacobius, Lesser Kiskadee, Neotropical Cormorant and a migrant Osprey. A real treat was finding a young chick tucked under the watchful eye and wing of a colorful Wattled Jacana. But all our bird viewing was eclipsed by Silvario saying with urgency – look, across the lake, the otters… The small family group of rare Giant Otter presently inhabiting the lake had not been seen for close to a month! We spotted two adults and a yearling, they were finding fish near the far shore, and we watched them surface with fish, and then sit vertically in the water to chew them, using their agile front paws to help. They eventually crossed the lake and disappeared for a while, surfacing half an hour or so later quite close to our boat as we sought out a calling crake. We had good luck with birds, including four Hoatzins which seemed to pose for Peg’s camera. Our luck with fishing was a bit more mixed! Deb caught a piranha with ease, a big smile erupting on her face as she pulled in her sharp-toothed prey. Marcyes was next and scored the largest of the bunch. Caitlin had nibbles but no bites, inviting the crafty ones her way that knew how to rob the bait. Harry caught a second species of piranha for us to observe, and Walter, well…..

Several species of macaws crossed the lake as we fished, including two pair of the rarer Blue-headed Macaws, which banked to show off their yellow under wing lining. It was a grand morning, with fine weather (always a bonus now in the rainy season), no bugs, and no hot sun. Horned Screamers were new for many of the group, and two in flight put on quite a show. Harry and Renata had watched a documentary film about the otters and their plight and were just thrilled to see them. They were in sight much of the morning at varying distances, and with the slow pace and the silence of our flat-bottomed lake boats they seemed unconcerned by our presence.

We returned by trail to meet our river boat, the driver of which had returned to the lodge to collect our luggage. En route we ran into a small canopy flock, and had great looks at Masked Crimson Tanager, Turquoise Tanager and Gilded Barbet. And then we had a wonderful surprise, as Silvario knew of a regular roosting spot for Spectacled Owl and was able to find them for us. We had super scope views of this beautiful owl, the second species for our journey to date. The lodge arranged for us to have a private boat that turned out super, as we were on the river for most of the rest of the day. It was like a day at sea on a cruise, a rhythm that was relaxing, with scenery that was pleasant but uniform; a curving expanse of muddy water and intensely green vegetation. We had sightings on and off throughout the trip, but not so frequently that one couldn’t get a quick nap in. We found a Red Howler Monkey feeding on fruit at one of the checkpoint stations; it hung by its tail and obviously relished its find. We had seen four earlier in the day at a distance, but this one was close enough to observe facial features – fun! One of our boatmen also spotted a huge Capybara that was resting on the muddy bank; it blended in so perfectly that we would never have seen it. We watched several Osprey lift off perches carrying large fish, both Black and Yellow-headed Caracara, Orinoco Goose and Pied Lapwing. The remote nature of Tambopata became readily apparent as we motored and motored and motored some more, watching Roadside Hawk, Bat Falcon and Peregrine Falcon. After the last checkpoint, at the entry of the tributary M>>>> we reached primary forest, and the increase in wildlife was apparent, as was the complexity of winding up the tree fall-infested river channel. We saw Violaceous Jays, several species of macaws and toucans, and several Side-necked Turtles. Our driver told us the boat coming out that morning had spotted a jaguar and near that spot we were tremendously vigilant, but for us, no large cats today.

All of our landings were challenging, due to mud, oddly-angled steps and the steepness of the river terrace or terra firma, on which structures are safe. We were happy to land and find cold beer, beds, showers and hammocks. Peg spotted some aracaris, and with the scope we found them to be Lettered Aracaris or rather stacked (i.e. mating) aracaris. Then two Spix’s Guans came in for close inspection, and a Scarlet Macaw perched on a dead snag close at hand. Off the other side of the porch we watched a Swallowwing and a pair of Black faced Dacnis feed, enjoying quite a bit of bird activity we passed an hour or so until dusk just relaxing. At dark, we chatted to a background chorus of tinamous and tree frogs; what an amazing place. In the evening hours we enjoyed dinner and a talk by the research staff conducting nest season observations on Scarlet Macaws.

Sun. Jan. 20 Tambopata Research Station: Macaw Lick and Trails
We woke very early, and walked the trail to the river with flashlights, needing to position ourselves at the macaw lick site before dawn. It was cool on the river; as we disembarked and got settled on an island across from the clay lick, which is located on an old oxbow of the river, we heard Undulated Tinamou and the first loud squawk of Mealy Parrots. Soon parrots of several species were coming in, in groups of 20 to 50, circling and landing on trees above the cliffs. Chestnut-fronted were our first macaws; they came in two by two as did the larger species to follow. Blue-and-yellow landed in a fairly close tree, and soon the top was decorated with over a dozen. They preened themselves and each other, and were fanning their bright yellow underwings as they jostled, changed positions and argued for space. Scarlet Macaws rivaled the Mealy Parrots in volume; their calls could be heard for miles, and their incoming flights were elegant and strong. Even in the dim morning light, we could make out colors of the macaws; the more subtle, almost pastel tones of the Red-bellied and Chestnut-fronted, and the shocking day-glow colors of the larger macaws. Mealy Parrots were the first to go to the clay, getting right to the task of consuming it. Researchers at Tambopata tie the soil-eating habit to need for salt; some 15 species have been recorded here. We saw six or so on the clay, and another couple in trees nearby, such at the peach colored White-bellied Parrots that hung out in good number in cecropia trees off to the side. We saw several pair of Blue-headed Macaw, the only of the six species that lack a bare face. Orange cheeked Parrots were some of the most colorful, but all were beautiful, particularly in combination with so many others. A few times something spooked the group and literally hundreds of colorful wings took to the sky, all screaming and carrying on, only to circle and little by little return. It was a wonderful experience to see all this activity, and we appreciated it more having come so far to do so.

We returned for a nice hot breakfast, and then headed out with Silvario for a hard-core attempt to find some mixed understory flocks in deep forest, visiting the realm of secretive antbirds. It was hard work, with quite a bit of playback (?), but we had some really good sightings, and a lot of fun trying. We slogged through mud that threatened to suck our boots off, and waded a stream that ran just shy of our boot rims. We slipped on bridges, banks and logs; we climbed over trees fallen across the paths. Some odd garbled noises drew our attention to a group of Purple-necked Fruitcrow, high in the canopy. All of a sudden we heard a CRASH, and our eyes were pulled skyward as we watched a large dead snag disintegrate and fall to the ground in six or seven large pieces. Had we not watched the fruitcrows we might have been right under it; wow! We soon heard other noises in the treetops, perhaps connected to the sudden tree crash – a large troop of Spider Monkeys, some of the largest and most agile monkeys we would observe. We could see their faces well, found one mother with a young one, and watched two males have a rowdy fight, which ended in some masterful leaps as both flew through the canopy. Two youngsters boxed and rested in plain sight on a large limb. We tore ourselves away eventually, hoping to find some other more secretive denizens of the forest. Near a river we pulled out Plumbeous Antwren, and then found Saddle-backed Tamarin monkeys and, after crossing the river, a great mixed flock. Here was our hoped-for bird explosion – two species of trogons, four species of woodcreepers, Gray Antwren, Long-winged Antwren and Bluish-slate Antshrike and Sepia-capped Flycatcher. All too soon we realized we’d be quite late for lunch, and simply had to go!

After lunch and a short rest we headed out again, winding our way along the river, and then climbing the hill behind the clay licks to a series of scenic overlooks. Below us we could see the oxbow that remains below the terrace of the clay lick, the main river and the higher mountains in the distance. Below us were large trees, at times just alive with birds! From the third overlook we hit the jackpot; both Violaceous and Purplish Jays were active, Russet-backed and Crested Oropendola, Yellow-rumped Cacique, and a local specialty, the White-throated Jacamar. At one time five of these little sword bearers perched on the same branch; at all times they were in view showing off their acrobatic way of feeding. We found Broad-billed Motmot, Scarlet-headed Barbet, and the lovely Swallow Tanager. All around us we heard and saw in flight the large macaws, joined by noisy White-eyed Parakeets. Luckily there were benches to sit on as our energies were fading, except for Silvario, our exceptional guide, just kept pulling out species for us. A Green Kingfisher at the river’s edge was our final species as we returned to our lodgings and the oasis that held cold beer, cold showers and a chance to relax and chat about our great day. A few owls called during the dinner hour, and we found Tawny-bellied Screech Owl again, listened to an Amazon Pygmy Owl and found a Night Monkey, before tumbling into bed to be ready for the next day! .

Mon. Jan 21 Tambopata Research Center / Fish Pond / Slogging for Antbirds
We woke on our pre-dawn schedule once again, had a quick cup of coffee and donned rubber boots. By flashlight we slogged to the boat, and once on the river felt the magic of morning in Amazonia. A fresh breeze, calling Tinamous, first sounds of antbirds and parrots and always the feeling of excitement; what would today bring? Right at the boat landing we had a perched Paraque that stayed for several minutes for a good study. We walked a short way into a magical small lake, where Ringed and Amazon Kingfisher repeatedly fished just off the dock we sat on. It was delightful, especially when the Amazon Kingfisher pair did a little courtship, trading off the prize of a fish. Lesser Kiskadee were also courting, and working on a large stick nest close to the water. Nearby was the mud dome of a Pale-legged Hornero, which first serenaded us, then came in for excellent views. It’s clean rust and gray plumage shone in the early light; a Social Flycatcher was in equally nice light as it showed off all the details of its often hidden crown. We were thrilled when a Razor-billed Curassow flew across the lake; it was soon followed by a wild pair of Muscovy Duck. The sounds here were incredible, an ever-changing chorus with varied tones and tempos. Just sitting there was a treat! We decided to walk around the lake, lured out of our seats by the call of a Cream-colored Woodpecker, a beautiful, large crested woodpecker. Silvario found it right away and though it was high in the canopy (oh, our necks by this point!) we had good views. We had only glimpses of a flying Red-billed Scythebill, a woodcreeper with an outlandishly curved red bill. To our surprise we had fantastic views of a King Vulture moving about on the limbs of a very large tree. What a place, and all this occurred before breakfast!

The sound of the boat had us scurrying to the pick-up place, and once back at the lodge a hot breakfast was most welcome. Fortified, many of us headed out for what Silvario described as a walk to a bamboo forest with a stream crossing that could be deep. The intrepid crew slogged on; after last night’s steady rain mud was on average over the shoe part of our boots and at times half way up our legs! But Silvario was a master at finding antbirds, some of the toughest birds to ever locate, or identify when found, and we were not going to miss this opportunity to find them. In a patch of bamboo we found several Long-winged Antwren, and to our delight a Striated Antbird. High above we scored views of the also difficult to find Screaming Piha, a bird that often teases with its sharp far-ranging call. We were now often walking through water, and all of us sucked our breath in a little when Silvario led us over a fat, but fairly high, log that served as a bridge over one forest stream. Onward we went, calling in a Black-faced Antbird. We then crossed a place so deep Marcyes and Peg were pouring water OUT of their rubber boots, but the prize was a troop of Squirrel Monkey, our seventh species of monkey in three days – pretty incredible! We had to head back to catch our noon boat departure, but had certainly made the best of our time here, and felt quite satisfied with all we had found. The ride back went far more quickly than the ride up, even towing a boat that had problems for part of the way we made it in just over 4 hours. After our shared bath at Tambopata Research Center, the large rooms with private bath at Posada Amazonas seemed like sheer luxury. And it was nice to have a couple hours to putz around, put our soggy things in order, write up notes and download photos. Darkness comes quite quickly in the tropics, and tonight it came with myriad sounds: Blue-throated Piping Guan, Wood Quail, frogs, several of the small owls and Crested Owl.

Tues. Jan. 22 Morning at the Tower / Return to Lima
We spent a lovely last morning, a rather extraordinary last morning, with time atop the 37 meter high canopy tower at Posada Amazonas. Silvario encouraged us once again to be out early, and what a thrill it was to watch sunrise aloft, surrounded by a mixed troop of Brown Capuchin and Squirrel Monkeys! They spread out all around us, making great leaps between trees. We spotted several moms with babies on their backs, taking the same breath-stopping leaps, so at home in the arboreal realm. Colorful birds came in one right after another – Black-capped Parakeets, White-bellied Parrots, Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper, Curl-crested Aracari, Gilded Barbet and more! Activity was bustling; we could barely tear ourselves away. On a scale of 1 to 10 for canopy tower days it was a 10 – we were really fortunate to experience it in full. And, to top it off, we had seen a Southern Tamandua eating ants out of a bromeliad cluster at the start of our trail! We gulped a quick breakfast and boarded our return boat, savoring some time on the river before departing. At the Rainforest Expeditions office we reorganized our gear, and soon were headed to Lima by plane. Our friendly driver was there to greet us, and showed us a bit of the Pacific shoreline near Miraflores as we drove to the hotel. Oh, HOT showers, and time to cleanse off the dust and Deet! Freshened up a bit, we headed for Rosa Nautica, an elegant waterfront restaurant, where Deb and Caitlin spotted a great final trip bird – beautiful Inca Tern. The food was scrumptious, a great ending to a wonderful journey that proved to hold a compelling mix of nature and culture. We can’t say enough about Peru, its diversity, and the friendly nature of the people. Armed with tips from our guides, we look forward to exploring Northern Peru in the year ahead!

Photo Credits:
All photos by Peg Abbott.

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