Southeast Arizona
May 2005 - Trip Report

Fri., May 6 Arizona Desert Museum / Rex Ranch, Amado
Our start was a bit rough, but Arizona Stagecoach came to the rescue, providing transport for the group to the Desert Museum while Peg and Dave straightened out rental vehicle problems with Enterprise. What an enjoyable afternoon, strolling well laid out trails between javelina, Cat Canyon, habitats of the Southwest, the hummingbird aviary and more. Everyone wandered at their own pace, absorbing the information, birding, and taking photographs.
 

By 4:00 pm we were on our way to Amado and the Rex Ranch, which was an absolute delight in every respect. A roadrunner posed in the mesquite near the entry for all to see; it returned often, probably to a nearby nest. Mike announced he’d seen 10 life birds before dinner. The Mexican hacienda-style architecture, deep terra cotta color, and outstanding food of the Rex Ranch won us over immediately.
 

Sat., May 7 California Gulch / Sycamore Canyon

We got up early for our grand adventure to California Gulch and Sycamore Canyon, both west of Amado and accessed only by a long dirt road. The Casa de San Pedro’s little bus did very well, though folks in the back seat got a real Disney World ride. Nancy and Judy were laughing so hard at one point we thought the roof had gone out! Dave went first, with Paul and Carol navigating the maze of small roads into the gulch. En route we had great views of a perched, dark-phase Swainson’s Hawk. The last mile we used our four-wheel-drive to shuttle to the trailhead, then walked down to the steep brushy slope known to hold elusive Five-striped Sparrows.
 

Peg heard them immediately, and Dave called them down – two curious individuals who luckily stayed with us, giving all splendid views. They even moved on to a waterhole where we could study them in full detail. For the first of many days, we had all three Myarchis flycatchers, as well as Hepatic Tanager and Hooded Oriole. By 10:00 we were heading on and on to hike Sycamore Canyon. Water, lots of flowers (and poison ivy), desert fish in the pools, and deep shade from cottonwoods, ash, sycamore and other trees were a treat.
 

With the help of Wynn, Barbara, and Marlene, we soon had a picnic lunch ready at the trailhead, where Eastern Bluebirds entertained us. Then we walked about a mile and half downstream, stopping many times for geology viewpoints, basking lizards, singing Rufous-crowned Sparrows, and more. The afternoon brought us a sample of the May heat, prompting Nancy to do a striptease act with her zip-off pant legs. Oh where were the cameras! Back at Rex Ranch we found another great meal awaiting us – a full and fabulous day.
 

Sun., May 8 Madera Canyon / Florida cutoff road / Patagonia / San Pedro

Mother’s Day brought us many delights. We left early for Madera Canyon, where by 9 am the holiday barbecue crowds were already gathering! There was water in the creek, rolling over the great mix of Precambrian and sedimentary rock. Hutton’s Vireo was a real hit, as was the sock-shaped nest of a Bushtit pair. Arizona Woodpecker showed off very well, but the highlight of the morning was a pair of Flame-colored Tanagers. At first we strained our necks to see them in the lush canopy of sycamore and maple trees. Then, they came right down to oranges hung at a cabin’s feeder and posed for all to see!
 

We drove the back road, with Peg reciting tales from the wilder days when Greaterville was a place of miners and outlaws. Then it was on to Patagonia; we had our picnic in the city park while Bronzed Cowbirds (a life bird for many) fed on the lawn. Several went to the lovely Mesquite Gallery nearby for some retail therapy. En route to our streamside walk at the Nature Conservancy preserve we stopped for Gray Hawks displaying above -- actually a an adult being chased by a year-old, begging juvenile who was no longer welcome.
 

Huge cottonwoods attest to the quality of this riparian habitat. Vermilion Flycatcher put on a good show, followed by scope views of the Thick-billed Kingbird across from the Patton’s feeders. Robin Baxter, former TNC preserve manager, showed us many specialties of the feeding station – Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Inca and Ground Doves, Lincoln’s Sparrow, and our first Gambel’s Quail. We then drove through beautiful grasslands, where Lynn and Carol spotted a small herd of Pronghorn. Just after that sighting, we spotted a Chihuahuan Raven on a post, the wind exposing its gleaming white neck. We arrived late afternoon at the gracious Casa de San Pedro, where hosts Patrick and Karl greeted us warmly. We enjoyed staying right there for a catered dinner and, as Lynn’s diary notes, “great pies.”
 

Mon., May 9 Garden & Sawmill Canyons / San Pedro / Kartchner Caverns

Peg hauled everyone out early in search for the Elegant Trogon. A glitch at the entrance to Fort Huachuca was solved when Mike, who happened to have his federal i.d., was able to vouch for Mimi, who had forgotten to bring an i.d. We passed through the close security with flying colors, stopped a snack from the P.X. and then found our way to the magical Upper Picnic ground.
 

We were not even out of the van when our bird began to call. He captured everyone’s hearts and attention – belting out his guttural calls, likely protecting a valuable nest spot and possibly a female on eggs. An easy and thoroughly enjoyable find! Nearby was a Plumbeous Vireo building a nest. Further up the road as we entered Sawmill Canyon, Lynn spotted a group of 10 Wild Turkey, with two displaying toms – fun! This is the Gould’s race, a population building up its numbers after years of decline.
 

We stopped to see pictographs left by Apache and earlier indigenous groups, but were quickly distracted and amazed by the brilliant combination of Yellow Columbine and Scarlet Monkeyflower in bloom and visited by a Magnificent Hummingbird. Peg talked of Barking Frogs and other rarities of the Huachucas. We drove (rather precariously over stream crossings) to higher elevation forests, where Peg and Mimi had a quick look at Buff-breasted Flycatcher in the scope (a few others saw with binoculars), great views of Greater Pewee (thanks to Mike), and a Zone-tailed Hawk first spotted by Lynn. Some of the group decided to call it a day and relax at the Casa. Others walked and explored at the San Pedro House, where Paul and Carol spotted the Abert’s Towhee.
 

The grand finale of the day, however, was a previously unplanned visit to Kartchner Caverns, where we explored the fantastic underground realm led by volunteer guides Ray and Margie. Delicate curtains of rock, intricate flowstone, and other unusual features rich in color and texture are incredible. A delicate nine-foot soda straw was stunningly beautiful, as was the enormous Kubla Khan formation where we ended with a thought-provoking music and light show. Equally impressive was the film about the two adventurers who discovered the cave, then kept their discovery a secret until state park status and protection were established. Home to the Casa, and dinner at the Bright Spot!
 

Tues., May 10 Ramsey Canyon / Ash Canyon feeders / Bisbee

After feasting on Eggs Casa, we enjoyed a morning at the renowned Ramsey Canyon Nature Conservancy Preserve. Dave, a Fort Huachuca retiree, gave us a full morning tour, noting the canyon’s fascinating natural features as well as the history of mining and settlement there. We saw a record-size Arizona Sycamore; the bird highlights included a second Plumbeous Vireo nest and easily seen, exceedingly vocal Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers. Several times we called upon Mimi, who always had her Sibley guide close at hand.
 

On to Ash Canyon B & B, where our host Mary Jo Ballentor joined us to watch for the Lucifer Hummingbird and other key species. We had two Anna’s Hummingbirds, both of which appeared to have gold rather than magenta gorgets. After a picnic lunch we headed to Bisbee for a free night for shopping and dining. Reed and Barbara joined Ken and Wynn for a memorable dinner at the Striped Stocking, while others tried the always-tasty Bisbee Grille.
 

Wed., May 11 Whitewater Draw / Chiricahua National Monument

Several of the group ventured out for a pre-breakfast walk on the San Pedro before enjoying the very rich breakfast of Stuffed French Toast. We then drove through the agricultural lands of the Sulphur Springs Valley, heading for the Chiricahua National Monument. Off Frontier Road we had great views of perched and flying Harris Hawks. Then we made a quick stop at White-water Draw and had two great finds: White-faced Ibis gleaming in the sun, and a pair of Great Horned Owls perched under the ramada. We hit the jackpot of water birds, and heard the chatter of Marsh Wren.
 

At Chiricahua National Monument, Suzanne Moody, a national park interpreter and geology expert, met our group for a windy lunch and super presentation on the geological processes that formed the park. She then dropped us off at the Echo Canyon trailhead to begin a four-mile hike through this wonderland of rock. We saw Claret-cup Cacti and yucca in bloom, as well as a mixed flock of Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Painted Redstart, Black-throated Gray Warbler, and more. The huge Arizona Cypresses and Ponderosa Pines lining the path kept us cool and shaded during our descent. Music of Black-headed Grosbeak and Canyon Wren accompanied us
 

Ken, Mimi, and Judy did some power hiking at the end; Judy reaching the Visitor’s Center just in time to make some purchases for everyone before it closed. Some of the group opted for sightseeing, touring the Far Away Ranch, and some time for birding. Most impressive was Marlene’s find of a huge ball of roosting ladybugs.
 

In the late afternoon we had great views of Cave Creek Canyon as we drove up and over the Chiricahuas on a forest road. After settling in to Portal Peak Lodge, we enjoyed a catered dinner at Peg’s house, provided by Lisa Bender. Helen Snyder came to talk about her current project – using a spy cam to capture in detail the lives of breeding Elf Owls. Another full and wonderful day.
 

Thurs., May 12 Portal / Cave Creek Canyon / Night Birding

We started the day with Dave Jasper on his home turf, where he knows every nest and winged creature. We had Indigo and Lazuli Buntings, joined by a Blue Grosbeak later on. No one could believe the volume of birds right on the main street of our little town! A group of Band-tailed Pigeon was new for many. Dave also gave us insight into the lives of locals, describing the interior of one house as “a monument to entropy.”
 

After a hearty breakfast at Portal Peak Lodge, we headed for the South Fork of Cave Creek Canyon. Right away we saw the rust colored Chiricahua Fox Squirrel – a species at the northernmost end of its range. From the height of Vista Point we got the lay of the landscape. Dave whistled up a Pygmy Owl – outstanding views – and a surprise for many in the mid-morning. During several hours walking up the canyon, we enjoyed views of waterfalls and the unique mix of vegetation -- yuccas blending with bracken fern, and Douglas Fir entwined with sycamore. Mexican Chickadees were active by a nest, and we saw our first, just arriving, Cordilleran Flycatchers. We heard trogons but did not pursue them, then had a picnic visited by Mexican Jays.
 

After a nice break in the mid-afternoon, resident biologists Carol Simon and Howard Topoff presented a special slide program on the biodiversity of the area. Howard’s graphic design skills are legendary in these parts: he started out to the music of “Peg of My Heart,” with photos of the Naturalist Journeys website, surrounded by exploding hearts. Peg had purchased some Arizona wines for us to try; we carried these out to Carol & Howard’s tennis court, where all agreed it would be tough to focus on tennis with such a view of the canyon!
 

After dinner at the Portal Store, several went out for some night birding with Dave and were amply rewarded with finds of Elf and Western Screech Owls.
 

Fri., May 13 Dave Jasper’s Feeders / Rustler’s and Barfoot Parks

Javelina came to the Dave’s bird feeders this morning, to his chagrin and the group’s delight. He’d chase them off and they’d return. A short walk out into the brush was necessary to find the birds, a Verdin being new for many.
 

After breakfast, it was up to the high country, for a whole day amid tall pines. Paul and Ken took off for a great hike up to the Barfoot Lookout. The birders kept at it to find Olive Warbler (on an active nest), Red-faced Warbler (finally, due to Peg’s persistence), Pygmy Nuthatches, lots of blooming lupine and some Wild Iris. In Barfoot Park we found a mixed flock that seemed like a veritable explosion – warblers, flycatchers, tanagers, and more. We had our last picnic feast of the trip, and then drove back down the scenic winding road for a short break or power nap in the afternoon.
 

We tried for a few more target birds -- a bit of a bust in the afternoon heat until Dave spotted a Bendire’s Thrasher for all to see. Our final dinner was at the Rodeo Tavern. Many of the group then wandered out on a perfect night – no wind, tons of stars, and a symphony Whip-poor-will calls. We had great looks at Whiskered Screech Owl, an active little male that would not quit calling.
 

Sat., May 14 Willcox Playa / Homeward Bound

Breakfast “en route” (as the itinerary promised) was a departure from the usual Naturalist Journeys fare: a McDonalds near the Willcox Playa. This small lake provides an oasis for many species, including, on this morning, Marbled Godwit, American Avocet, Ruddy Duck in breeding plumage, feeding Wilson’s Phalarope, Cinnamon Teal, and Black-necked Stilt. We dropped Reed and Barbara at their car in Benson, where they would begin their cross-country trip home. Our flock would disperse, only to miss the grand show of Peg and Lynn trying to clean the Casa bus out at a local carwash. Lynn got locked inside after we hosed down the floor, with the humidity rising…! A great group, a great trip, and a great time had by all.

 

Close This Window