Southeast
Arizona
April 1-8, 2006
- Trip Report
This
spring three travelers from Quest Nature Tours, based in Toronto,
Canada, joined the Naturalist Journeys’ participants to explore
the Sonoran Desert. It was wonderful to introduce them, and several
members of the Naturalist Journeys group, to Saguaro Cacti forests,
and a variety of terrains they had not realized were here -- from
mountains and canyons to, of course, wide expanses of cactus-clad
space. Though we weren’t blessed with anything like last year’s
legendary spring bloom (due to a droughty winter), the Sonoran Desert
still offered plenty of drama and colorful surprises. Our group shared
an interest in natural history beyond the “bloom”: geology,
birding, and plant life.
Sat.,
April 1 Arrival in Tucson / Desert Museum / Florence
The co-leader for the trip, Portal, AZ bird and botany expert Dave
Jasper, greeted participants at the airport; then all were off to
explore Tucson’s famous Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. The museum
provides an excellent introduction to desert life. Dave showed the
group some of their first desert birds, including Costa’s Hummingbird,
Gambel’s Quail, and Gila Woodpecker. Cactus Wrens and Black-chinned
Hummingbirds were already building nests in their aviaries; and several
native plants bloomed in response to watering and care.
Soon it
was time to drive to our wonderful lodgings at the Inn at Rancho Sonora
in Florence, AZ, about two hours east of Tucson. Because the group
took the “scenic route” they had to rush a bit to change
for dinner. It was worth it, however, as the Grille on Main –
housed in Florence’s historic mercantile building – had
an excellent menu. After dinner some enjoyed the night sky, others
a quick retreat to bed. Richard found the wireless Internet connection
that he could use in the lodge’s beautiful courtyard to keep
up on the local weather as well as his daily favorites.
Sun.,
April 2 Boyce Thompson Arboretum / Florence
Hugh was the only taker for the early morning outing. He and Dave
had a grand time finding a few migrant warblers (including a lovely
Black-throated Gray), Pyrrhuloxia, an Anna’s Hummingbird bathing
in the fountain, and a singing Scott’s Oriole. Then we all gathered
in the breakfast nook to enjoy fruit, hard-boiled eggs, and a variety
of pastries and breads.
The group
met Peg (just coming off another adventure) at the Boyce Thompson
Arboretum to walk and explore its excellent desert gardens. So much
was happening in the parking lot, it was hard to get out on the trail!
Dave found several native plants in bloom, and Abert’s Towhee
was a new species for the group. Northern Mockingbirds ran through
their mimicking repertoire, but their songs weren’t recognizable
to our northern visitors!
Peg found
the group watching a Gila Woodpecker and a Verdin. She and Dave discussed
how cacti, agave, yucca, and other succulents have adapted to the
desert. The gardens are arranged by regional habitats and include
plants that occur in the Mexican portion of the Sonoran Desert. We
were treated to a male Broad-billed Hummingbird with its bright red
bill, and a male Cooper’s Hawk that stayed perched for our close
inspection. The trail lent itself to studying some of the rocks in
detail; the streambed revealed some of Arizona’s oldest sediments.
At the small catchment dam for a still barely running stream we found
Black Phoebe and a Pied-billed Grebe.
It was
heating up as we finished our hike, so we welcomed a picnic lunch
in the shade. With energies lagging a bit on this first full day,
we settled into the shade and let nature come to us. While the winter
residing Rufous-backed Robin did not make an appearance at the introduced
Mediterranean Olive trees, a Bewick’s Wren did, as well as the
pale southwestern form of Hermit Thrush.
Then we
headed back to the inn to enjoy some free time in the afternoon. Jean
-- whose husband Bill describes her as “a fish” -- led
the way to the pool, and several others followed suit. Peg brought
from Portal a catered dinner of cold salads that her office assistant
had made. We enjoyed wine, hors d’oeuvres, a wonderful cold
melon soup (recipe to follow!), a delicious chicken salad, and other
refreshing dishes. After ice cream for dessert, we hit the hay at
the end of a full day.
Mon.,
April 3 Catalina State Park / Historic Florence
After breakfast at the inn, we ventured south to the foothills of
the Catalina Mountains near Tucson to walk among expansive Saguaro
Cactus forests. We stopped en route at the Tom Mix Memorial: after
we bade our respects to the famous cowboy actor of silent movie days,
Dave tracked down a wintering Brewer’s Sparrow, and Peg lined
out the geologic story of the “Basin and Range” region,
well in evidence here.
Soon we
were filling water bottles and lacing up boots for a loop walk. We
found a Verdin nest, a Canyon Towhee, a Desert Cottontail, and several
lizards. A Rufous-winged Sparrow, a desert specialty, stayed around
for good scope views. A real surprise here was a bright and jaunty
Painted Redstart, a bird more at home in oak-pine woodlands! We enjoyed
a picnic lunch with fine views; then, as temperatures were climbing,
we opted to head back to our lodgings. On the way, Peg and Hugh spotted
a Prairie Falcon in flight.
Once back
at the inn, several participants embraced the traditional concept
of the siesta. Then we went into the town of Florence -- once a mining
boomtown -- to see a few of its historic buildings. Our dinner restaurant
provided a chance to share some local color – it was full of
people desirous of the delicious and ample classic Mexican food.
Tues.,
April 4 Casa Grande / Picacho Resevoir & Picacho Peak / Tucson
We hated to leave the peaceful environment of the Inn at Rancho Sonora,
especially as this morning brought an invasion of migrant Lark Buntings
– they were everywhere! We drove a short distance to Casa Grande
National Monument, which preserves the largest and most complex building
of Arizona’s Hohokam people, contemporaries of the Anasazi of
the Four Corners region. In the parking lot we got super looks at
Gilded Flicker, a signature bird of the Sonoran Desert.
At the
visitor’s center, an excellent film outlined the basics of the
Hohokam farming culture. Among the displays were maps showing the
miles of irrigation canals the Hohokam had laid out, some of which
are still in use today! Phyllis and Janet said they really appreciated
the timeline display, which showed this group’s history in context
with other Southwestern cultures and events in Europe. We explored
for an hour or so, leaving with rave reviews for this small unit of
our National Park Service.
Our drought
winter had left Picacho Resevoir bone dry, but we still found some
super birds, as well as Harris’ Antelope Ground Squirrel. Close
to the entrance Peg spotted a Burrowing Owl that was keeping company
with a Great Blue Heron along a canal bank. We were able to get scope
views of this tolerant little bird, and Peg and Richard snuck closer
in the small van for photos. A Greater Roadrunner finally made an
appearance for our big van; and a few got a look at Crissal Thrasher
singing from the mesquite trees. A group of about 20 Black Vultures
was surprising, as they normally cling to the towns and river areas
along the Mexican border.
At Picacho
Peak, a state park centered on a high, dramatic volcanic plug cloaked
in Saguaro, we enjoyed a picnic lunch and a hike up to a viewpoint.
A Rock Wren greeted us there; but the find of the hike was the Prairie
Hawk that Richard spotted. Somehow Dave kept finding new and interesting
plants to see, despite the lack of blooms. We arrived at our lovely
hotel in northwest Tucson by 4:00, which left time for a swim and
a happy-hour sampling of the hotel’s famous Margaritas. We ate
dinner on the patio, enjoying some upscale Southwestern cuisine.
Wed.,
April 5 Sweetwater Wetlands / Painted Rocks Road / Kitt Peak National
Observatory
Because everyone voted for a later departure, we had a leisurely morning
and left at 9:00 a.m. A cooling trend started today, which helped
us fully enjoy the following days. Our first stop was the Sweetwater
Wetlands, a lush oasis just off Interstate 10 in Tucson. The cattail-lined
ponds here seem out of place, but certainly draw the birds! We saw
Ruddy Duck, Blue-winged Teal, Northern Shoveler, and Common Moorhen;
but the real prize was a Least Grebe – a tropical visitor that
only rarely shows up in the United States. We also had super looks
at Harris’ Hawk, and Dave described its unique cooperative method
of hunting jackrabbits.
We then
drove west through Saguaro National Park, stopping en route for some
photos and closer examination of desert plants. Dave spotted a Western
Diamondback rattlesnake crossing the road ahead of us, and we approached
cautiously to examine it. The snake never took on its defensive posture;
instead it wound between the desert plants with ease, smelling the
air with its tongue and taking its time on this cool day. This was
the first rattlesnake for several of the group.
Later,
en route to Kitt Peak National Observatory, we added another first
– a pair of Crested Caracara that posed for us atop two roadside
Saguaro Cacti. After our picnic lunch, we drove up the winding mountain
road that leads to Kitt Peak in the Baboquivari Mountains, one of
the many Sky Island ranges of Arizona and neighboring Mexico. Dave
discussed the changes in vegetation as we gained elevation. By the
time we got to the top we were donning jackets while finding seminal
mountain birds of the region, including Acorn Woodpecker, Mexican
Jay, and Bridled Titmouse. The museum houses displays on the observatory
scientists’ research, as well as a gift store featuring the
fine basketry and other crafts of the Tohono O’odham people
(on whose land the observatory sits). Having seen Devil’s Claw
seedpods in the wild, we marveled at the finished products the Tohono
O’odham created from them.
This was
a special day for Joan and Bill Collins - their wedding anniversary
of many years. After we arrived at the Guest House in Ajo, we toasted
them with champagne and flowers. As we started the celebration, Dave
had a quick glimpse of a group of Javelina wandering off down the
wash behind us; but we were too late to get a good view. Dinner tonight
was at a local Chinese restaurant, where Peg went a bit wild ordering
appetizers to tide us over and we all left rather stuffed!
Thurs.,
April 6 Ajo’s Copper Mine Pit / Organ Pipe Cactus National Park
Mike, our host at the Ajo Guest House, outdid himself this morning
preparing a scrumptious breakfast followed by a full platter of fresh
fruit. He also told us of Ajo’s early mining days (a saga that
didn’t end until the 1980’s). We breakfasted at the same
table where mining executives once made history – the Guest
House was created to entertain the mine’s visitors and management
personnel. We decided to visit the old mining pit for a first hand
view; also Peg thought a fairly reliable spring there might be drawing
the birds. It proved a migrant bonanza, including northern species
such as MacGillivray’s Warbler and Lazuli Bunting. We also were
happy to see a resident Say’s Phoebe and a Western Kingbird
here.
Soon we
were on our way to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, one of the
more remote desert parks and a real gem of the U.S. Park Service.
We started with a drive and then hike up Alamo Canyon, which we had
to ourselves for the morning. Ash-throated Flycatchers called from
the dry wash that we followed. The many-branched Organ Pipe Cacti
were now plentiful on the south-facing (warmer) slopes, beautifully
interwoven with the abundant Saguaro. We took a leisurely walk up
to an old ranch house and corrals, finding several Lesser Earless
Lizards, a Zebra Lizard, and a larger Side-blotched Lizard on the
way. High above a ridge we spotted Turkey Vultures harassing a much
larger Golden Eagle.
We had
lunch at the trailhead upon our return, in the company of sleek midnight-blue
Phainopepla. After lunch we headed down to the visitor center. Bob
and Alice immediately went to the herbarium to study the pressed plant
specimens. Several wandered past the display of a Quitobaquito (desert)
Pupfish, which Peg explained was a relict species. Such fish, and
several isolated land snails, provide important clues to the alignment
of southwestern rivers in eras gone by. Hugh pointed out a pair of
Cactus Wrens perched atop Saguaro; soon a Curve-billed Thrasher joined
them. We enjoyed the antics of several hummingbirds attracted to watered
flowerbeds by the front door. After driving part of the Pena Blanca
Road to a scenic viewpoint, we headed back to our lodgings for the
day. For dinner we gathered to enjoy another Mexican restaurant, Marcela’s
of Ajo.
Fri.,
April 7 Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument / Ajo Mountain Drive
After another delicious breakfast, we headed into the monument to
explore its premier attraction – the Ajo Mountain Scenic Drive.
We made numerous stops on the way to take photos and to discuss the
cataclysmic volcanic forces that shaped the scenery.
We hiked
up Arch Canyon, but didn’t get to see the Desert Bighorn Sheep.
Phyllis had gotten a quick look at a small group, likely bedded down
in the shade of a steep cliff, but by the time we stopped this fascinating
desert mammal had disappeared. Dave pointed out several Coahuila Juniper:
this is the only place in the U.S. in which they occur.
We had
lunch under a shaded ramada, then continued our scenic drive back
to the visitor center. Several of the group just wanted to see the
Mexican border, just three miles away. It turned out to be a fortuitous
venture: in the parking lot we found a Vermilion Flycatcher, normally
a tame and common resident of this part of the country! We thoroughly
enjoyed our final dinner in the town of Why – the small café
served surprisingly good food in quantities large enough for a group
twice our size!
Sat,
April 8 Return to Tucson / Departures
Mike fed us early today, so that we could return to Tucson in time
for flights out with a little extra time for possible interesting
sights along the way. We did observe several Crested Caracara and
got to the airport with plenty of time. We decided not to visit the
beautiful mission church at San Xavier del Bac on the way. Next time!
What a super week in the desert – a time of quiet and renewal
while appreciating the beautiful scenery, rigorous conditions, and
the hearty life forms that live here.
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