Naturalist Journeys, in association with the Massachusetts Audubon Society:
Southeast Arizona
May 10-19, 2007 - Trip Report
Peg Abbott and Greg Smith, guides, with 10 participants

Thurs., May 10 Arrival in Tucson / Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum
After meeting at the airport mid-day, we enjoyed several hours of wandering the trails of the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, which inspires a thorough understanding of the Southwest. Exploring this museum is a visual feast! Many of the plants were in bloom; agaves, yuccas, palo verde, Desert Willow and a host of smaller shrubs gave color at every turn, and we had a chance to see Costa’s Hummingbird in the wild as they were plentiful! Several hummingbirds were on nests in the aviary; one had large chicks which raised their little necks to greet their incoming mom – all just three feet off our path – incredible! People enjoyed Black-necked Stilt and other birds up close in the larger general aviary and the Coatimundi were quite active roaming about their enclosure. The real show stopper, though, was the baby Bighorn Sheep which nimbly leapt from rock to rock, frolicking among the tolerant adults of its group. Time went quickly and we were happy to get good looks at Gilded Flicker before heading off to our hotel, the delightful La Posada. Here we had a great welcome dinner, dining alfresco as the sun went down over the Catalina Mountains.

Fri., May 11 Agua Caliente Park / Amerind Foundation / Willcox Playa / Portal
Several started the morning with a walk on the neighboring golf course, where a Vermilion Flycatcher displayed its brilliant namesake color. After an ample buffet breakfast, we headed east across town to Agua Caliente for a brilliant introduction to desert birds in the wild. En route, Peg showed us a nest site of Harris Hawk she had found in March, and while it was unoccupied, we found one of the family just down a residential street with large trees. It perched quite prominently for us to get good scope views and we were fascinated to see smaller birds mobbing it, including a Yellow-headed Blackbird. We were barely out of our cars before we spied a family group of Phainopeppla with two adults attending a begging youngster. We had good looks at Black-tailed Gnatcatcher, Curve-billed Thrasher and Verdin when Greg called out, “Look at the hole in the Saguaro, an Elf Owl!” Sure enough, right in the middle of the day an adult was peeking out to see what was going on. We all got scope views – what a way to start! Walking on, in large trees by the arroyo, we saw the first of a dozen or more Western Tanager. Joined by several Black-headed Grosbeaks, this was a pulse of migrants resting and feeding before heading up in elevation to their conifer-clad summer homes. They always seem to bring a tropical flair with them. While Lucy’s Warbler and the Bell’s Vireo appeared a bit drab in comparison, they are regional specialty species and certainly deserved our attentions. They could not compete, however, with the Greater Roadrunner, which appeared close by, and seemed to almost follow us down the path. Near one of the buildings it grabbed, then pulverized, a sizable lizard. We were in its pathway back to the nest – it came within several feet of us seemingly quite pleased with its prize. There were few water birds on the lake, but we watched a Common Raven and a Red-tailed Hawk in the sky, and made our way back to the van with a stop at Tucson Audubon Society’s fine little shop.

The desert heat was kicking in so an air conditioned ride and time inside at the Amerind Foundation’s fine museum were well timed. Amid giant boulders in the shade we enjoyed a delicious picnic with lots of fresh foods. Yellow-rumped and Wilson’s Warblers fed in the oaks above us, and several Western Tanagers took turns drinking from a drip out of the local water fountain. We marveled at the adaptability of migrant birds and headed on to another excellent stop at the Twin Lakes ponds of Willcox. We viewed most of the species here from our vans, as it was still quite hot. We found a good array of shorebirds, Scaled Quail at close range, and a few species of ducks. Wilson’s Phalarope were new for many of the group, and they fed in their characteristic whirling method, turning circles and snapping up the insects they found.

Our drive to Portal was lovely as clouds were building over the mountains, and the abundant spikes of Ocotillo were in full bloom, giving a flow to the landscape. Turning south from the Interstate, Foothills Road was lined with blooming prickly pear cacti and Desert Marigold; the late-afternoon light show on the looming volcanic cliffs was lovely. As we passed the village of Portal and entered Cave Creek Canyon, we drove through a natural tunnel of white-barked sycamore trees arching over the road. It gave a feeling of intrigue as we arrived at the American Museum of Natural History’s Southwest Research Station with time to settle in a bit before dinner. While unloading our bags, Greg found a White-throated Swift obviously stunned from perhaps hitting a window; with a little rest and TLC it flew away-- a happy note to end on for our day.

Sat. May 12 Southwestern Research Station / South Fork Cave Creek / Rodeo area
Local birding guide Dave Jasper joined us today, and was at the station by 6:30 AM for a pre-breakfast walk. Our first bird – Elegant Trogon! It turns out a male Elegant Trogon had been at the station for about a week, perhaps a dispersing youngster from the previous two years nesting up Cave Creek near John Hands campground. It was vocal and active, advertising for a mate, and our group got splendid looks. And how amazing to have such an array of birds just outside the door; Acorn Woodpecker, Blue-throated Hummingbird, Hepatic Tanager and Scott’s Oriole were some of the highlights. Robert cooked a delicious quiche for breakfast, and afterwards we drove a short ways up the main fork of Cave Creek to Helen Snyder’s cabin. Helen is a local biologist and raptor specialist, currently working on the abundance and distribution of small owls in the area. Behind the cabin we found another male trogon, which posed beautifully for us in a sycamore tree. Dusky-capped and Brown-crested Flycatchers were present, giving us a good study for comparison. We were also able to see a female Northern Goshawk in the scope – memorable for all of us.

The day continued to be a heyday for seeing raptors, as Dave showed us several small owl nests he’d found over the previous few weeks. Most were incubating; the males would wait outside the nest as a quiet guarding presence. Like the elf owl we’d seen in the desert, the Northern Pygmy Owl popped her head out of the hole, inquisitive but not alarmed about the group around her. The speckling on the head was lovely and Dave tried valiantly to tell us how tough this species was as all carried on about how cute it was! We had a lovely walk up Cave Creek, enjoying sightings of Mexican Jay, Arizona Woodpecker, and Grace’s Warbler. The morning passed all too quickly; we returned for lunch at the research station, followed by a talk by staff member P.D. Hulce about the work of the station, the projects of current researchers, and a demonstration of the research collections. During an afternoon break several enjoyed a well-deserved nap, others wrote in their journals on the shaded porch, or simply strolled around the grounds, looking at all the wonderful plants and birds.

In the late afternoon we drove down into the desert to search out Bendire’s Thrasher, which posed for us well on a fence wire, and two more species of owl (Long-eared and Barn, both nesting here) making for five species of owl sighted in one day! Black-throated Sparrows were quite vocal and Black-tailed Jackrabbits entertained us with their spirited escapes when encountered near the roads.

Sun., May 13 Barfoot and Rustler’s Park of the High Chiricahuas / Paradise and the George Walker House / Dave Jasper’s Feeders
This morning, after an early breakfast at the Research Station, we drove the winding dirt road up into the realm of pines and mixed conifer forests atop the Chiricahuas. We stopped several times as we encountered the large trees on shaded slopes, and with good fortune found Olive-sided Flycatcher perched and calling, and a dark phase Short-tailed Hawk flying overhead almost immediately. The hawk made a second pass through our view for all to see – what a stunning raptor! With a bit of work we found our first Yellow-eyed Juncos, which then became quite regular in our sightings with some being remarkably tame. In the open section of the forest Peg spotted Eastern Bluebird carrying a moth in its bill; the pair made regular feeding trips to a cavity nest hole somewhere distant. Pygmy Nuthatch were new for many, and their cheery calls and antics were with us much of the morning. Warblers were notably few and we checked several locations before finding Red-faced and Olive Warblers, two that we particularly wanted to see. Hammond’s and Cordilleran Flycatchers were more cooperative to find, and alert and vocal Stellar’s Jays came to find us. The lupine were in full bloom, as well as several shrubs including Chokecherry and Ninebark which gave off a lovely fragrance. We enjoyed vistas far off into the desert valley, and up to the fire lookout tower. Jean had climbed up there with our fall hiking trip group a few years before and enjoyed sharing memories of that windy cold day. We drank in the smell of pines as we ate our picnic lunch. Greg’s offering of chocolate toffee peanut brittle was well received. Satisfied with our lunch and our bird-finding, we headed down the mountain, taking the road to Paradise which follows East Turkey Creek.

The feeders at the historic George Walker House Bed and Breakfast are open to the public, and sharing time on the porch with hosts Jackie and Winston Lewis is one of life’s great pleasures. They diligently fill dozens of feeders, attracting hummingbirds, and today a grand variety of grosbeaks and buntings. Spikes of agaves lined with peanut butter (she goes through 4 pounds a day….) held wonderful combinations of species; at one time we had Rose-breasted and male and female Black-headed Grosbeaks, Scott’s Oriole, and Lazuli Bunting all in one frame of view! The Juniper Titmouse came in to its favorite feeder; that and a Blue Grosbeak were new for many of our group. We stayed for well over an hour, relaxing, visiting and taking in all the great sightings. We then drove to Portal, for a quick tour of Peg and Greg’s respective homes and a chance to watch desert species at Dave Jasper’s feeders. Here we got super views of Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Curve-billed Thrasher, and fulfilled a wish of Joyce and Janet’s to see baby quail as two different aged broods of Gambel’s Quail marched in with their parents. The day ended with a good chicken dinner at the Research Station, and all enjoyed a free evening to wander a bit, pack for the next day and to watch sunset over the colorful cliffs of Cave Creek Canyon.

Mon., May 14 Chiricahua National Monument / Whitewater Draw / Bisbee
It was another lovely morning to wake up to at the Research Station. Light played through the sculptured trunks of the sycamore trees, framing the yellow, orange and pink cliffs behind. Acorn Woodpeckers carried on their endless conversations, rivaled only by squawks from Mexican Jay and loud trilling of Bewick’s Wren. We had an early breakfast, packed a sack lunch and were on our way up and over the mountain. We stopped briefly at the junction of Turkey Creek and the main canyon, and were delighted with views of a singing Greater Pewee, which perched out boldly, sallying out for insects and returning to the same perch. We had a nice group of Common Bushtit, Red-faced and Townsend’s Warblers and once again heard, but could not lure in the elusive Virginia’s Warbler. On to the Monument, passing through lush oak woodland and out onto extensive grasslands as we reached the Sulphur Springs Valley. Suzanne Moody, a resource specialist for the park, met us at the top of the scenic drive to give us an overview of the geology of the park. All around us impressive rock hoodoos lined up like soldiers. Many were covered with orange and lime green lichens; beautiful patterns emerged where stringers of tall conifer trees grew in shaded microclimates created by the complex topography. We envisioned the cataclysmic events that caused today’s scenery from the exhibit hall atop Massai Point. In the chaparral vegetation below we found Black-throated Gray Warbler, Spotted Towhee and Hutton’s Vireo, and were pleased to find a Gray Vireo, calling loudly but not staying long for review.

Greg and three others hiked the Echo Park loop trail, a good workout in the heat but a trail that offers superlative views. They found Rock Wren, heard Canyon Wren, and Susan spotted a Zone-tailed Hawk.

Peg took the others birding, seeking out shaded glens; one of which had a water source and drew in Painted Redstart, and Warbling, Hutton’s and Plumbeous Vireos. Scott’s Oriole and Black-headed Grosbeak kept up a symphony of song that rang out through the rock features. It was a lovely day in a beautiful park; atop Massai Point we enjoyed a picnic and then headed across the open valley to Whitewater Draw Water Conservation Area. The lakes here were quite muddy, but still provided us excellent looks at several ducks – Blue-winged Teal, American Wigeon, Northern Shoveler and Ruddy – and a few shorebirds – Long-billed Dowitcher, American Avocet and Wilson’s Phalarope. Highlights at this location were superb looks at Swainson’s Hawk for all, views of a secretive Sora for Susan, Janet and Joyce, and finding 11 Long-billed Curlew feeding on the far shore as we completed the loop trail to head on.

Bisbee was on the agenda for our late afternoon, and everyone enjoyed some free time to look around this historic town with its colorful buildings and eclectic shops. Driving a bit west of Bisbee to the San Pedro River, we settled into our beautiful rooms at the Casa de San Pedro, where a festive Mexican dinner was catered for us. The sunset revealed banded colors of red and pink, highlighting the Huachuca Mountains, and a Lesser Nighthawk that flew by as we stepped out for a ‘scenery alert’.

Tues., May 15 Carr Canyon / Ramsey Canyon / Ash Canyon Feeders
Greg led an optional early morning walk behind the Casa de San Pedro. Beneath the green tunnel of the massive cottonwood trees that line the river, our group found Summer Tanager, Blue Grosbeak and Vermilion Flycatcher. The latter was displaying by singing in flight, puffing out its brilliant chest as it hurled itself into the sky. It was a perfect morning with no wind, still cool, and bird song just radiating from the vegetation.

Karl and Patrick made a delicious breakfast of oatmeal pancakes, ham and fresh fruit. We got a more leisurely start after this fine meal – also distracted by the great birds right outside at the feeders – Bullock’s Oriole, Gila Woodpecker and Gambel’s Quail, again with small chicks, at the feeder.

The road up Carr Canyon is winding and primitive, the noise inside our vans with coolers shifting and passengers giggling was memorable. Luckily Peg heard some bird activity out the open window, and we stopped midway for some breathtaking views and the song of the elusive Virginia’s Warbler. This time, after patience and diligent searching, we found it. A male was perched and singing, while the female secretively went in and out of a shaded rock glen – likely nesting. A nice bonus of waiting here was time to admire the fantastic limestone cliffs and their coats of many-colored lichen and to watch the Zone-tailed Hawk Peg picked out, soaring with a vulture. We drove up to find the realm of tall pines and Gambel Oak, a Rocky Mountain member of the tree and shrub community. These were just leafing out, with new fresh catkins attracting insects. The warblers were busy, and several Graces’ and Black-throated Grays entertained us with good views. A pair of Buff-breasted Flycatcher could not have been more cooperative; we had a great time watching them, summarized by Susan’s enthusiastic summary – “that bird is SO cute!”

After a great lunch, in which our dessert was fresh watermelon and pineapple, we drove down the mountain and north to the next canyon which is home to the Nature Conservancy’s Ramsey Canyon Preserve. Magnificent and Black-chinned Hummingbirds were at the feeders, and Terry spotted the beautiful Violet-crowned Hummingbird. He had lingered to speak with volunteer Priscilla Brodkin, one of Arizona’s leading butterfly experts and co-author of the field guide, along with Bob Stewart and her husband Hank.

We walked the shaded trail up the canyon, admiring the old Golden Eagle aerie site and scanning the sky, as it had been sighted that morning. The high whistling call of Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher alerted us, and in the tall sycamores all got a good view of this Mexican species that ranges ever so slightly into the United States. On our day of visiting three canyons, we concluded with Mary Jo Ballentor’s feeders near the mouth of Ash Canyon. Just outside her gate we had two Crissal Thrasher fly by, one following the other, and for a few showing off their diagnostic rust undertail coverts. Inside the gate, colors of the garden and comfortable chairs were most welcome as we waited for the female Lucifer Hummingbird to show up. She came in once, when only a few got a glimpse, and then returned for a good long viewing by all. It was nice to study the peach underparts, the long bill and the overall proportions in comparison to Anna’s and Black-chinned Hummingbirds, also there at the feeders. Walt pointed out that our hummingbird count was now up to 8 species! At day’s end we returned to the Casa to freshen up for another catered dinner; this time steaks and salmon were on the menu, followed by our choice of five different pies – wow!

Wed., May 16 Garden and Scheelite Canyons / San Pedro House / Miller Canyon
This morning our optional outing was to the other side of the San Pedro River by van. It was another beautiful day; the morning fresh and clear. Driving in to the pond area we wanted to explore, Peg heard a Botteri’s Sparrow singing. We stopped quickly to get out, and had great views of this territorial male, likely just arrived, singing from all the shrub and yucca perches of its realm. At one point it came right to the edge of the road – no need for our scope anymore at that range. At the pond we almost immediately heard the trill of Tropical Kingbird. The female of this pair had just arrived and the two were wrapped up in fast and furious courtship flying. We’d see streaks of bright yellow breasts dash by, zipping from one large cottonwood to the next. Finally they settled and we got scope views, along with views of the smaller and more sedate Vermilion Flycatcher. Driving back for breakfast, we stopped at the Hereford Bridge over the San Pedro River and at a distance experienced quite a ballet of raptors: two American Kestrels and a larger Prairie Falcon, two White-tailed Kites, a pair of Swainson’s Hawks and a Fuertes race Red-tailed Hawk – wow! To top it all off, Susan and Duval spotted a Gray Hawk as we were leaving, and we did a U-turn to put up the scope again!

We returned to the cozy dining room of Casa de San Pedro to enjoy delicious eggs with cheese and chilies, fresh muffins and fruit, and sweets – such a life! Some of our group had stayed behind to enjoy a quiet morning, sipping their coffee on the back porch, listening to all the bird song and watching Cassin’s Kingbirds, Gambel Quail and Vermilion Flycatcher – the latter bird being the mascot of the Inn. Fortified, we packed up our picnic lunch and drove (on pavement today for a change!) to a lovely shaded canyon on Fort Huachuca. We watched the ridgeline of the mountains throughout the day for Golden Eagle, but this time to no avail. Our challenge this morning was a hike up Scheelite Canyon to find a pair of Mexican Spotted Owl. In this endeavor we had success beyond our imagination, finding them in a shaded glen at a turn in the trail, preening each other, side by side. They seemed curious about our quiet attention, but were not alarmed; they simply kept up their intimate grooming. For us it was quite a thrill. A family of Canyon Wren entertained us along the way, hopping on a rock ledge decorated with blooming Indian Paintbrush as they uttered their memorable descending song. We returned to the vans and a great picnic lunch at Garden Canyon, where a male Elegant Trogon serenaded us, perched near its nest in a sycamore. Peg checked the old Golden Eagle nest here from a different angle, and found it inhabited – by a Great Horned Owl! What an amazing morning.

After lunch we stopped at the San Pedro House to admire the century-old cottonwood tree and to see if any birds of note had been reported. We had good looks at Lucy’s Warbler and Lillian’s race of Eastern Meadowlark before returning to the Casa de San Pedro. Some elected to call it quits and freshen up for the evening while others pushed on for one more special bird – the White-eared Hummingbird reported from nearby Miller Canyon. Dark thunderheads gave a dramatic cast to the sky, and as we reached the Beatty’s Ranch it started to rain. As we took refuge in the van, over came Mrs. Beatty to welcome us and assure us we could step into the shelters to continue our birding. What a great effort some of the locals of this area have made so we could find our treasures. We happily took our seats at the upper hummingbird feeder area, and in time got clear views of the male White-eared, which even perched on a picturesque agave plant long enough for us to photograph.

Tonight was a free night for dinner; some of the group elected to have a relaxing evening at home, and Greg took the rest of us to a restaurant recommended by our hosts Karl Schmitt and Patrick Dome. The Adobe Restaurant was superb, from appetizers of shrimp flautas and smoked chicken stuffed poblanos, to main course selections of Yucatan Chicken, wonderful steaks and seafood and more. Driving back to the Inn Greg spotted a herd of javelina, a fascinating mammal of the Southwest and a sighting to cap off our day.

Thurs., May 17 Patagonia Lake / Roadside Rest / Patton’s Feeders / Railroad Ponds
This morning we had breakfast early and said our goodbyes after a gracious stay at the Casa. We drove through grasslands flanking the Huachucas for one last try to see Montezuma Quail along the entry to Coronado National Monument. No luck prevailed for this effort, but Greg heard the uplifting notes of Cassin’s Sparrow and we pulled off to watch it sing – this was a new species for many. It was a scenic trip over to Patagonia. Peg pointed out the various mountain ranges and interpreted the geology and Greg spotted a beautiful male Pronghorn running through tall grasses near the turnoff to Elgin. Cliff Swallows and Chihuahuan Raven were also spotted along the way. We encountered large cottonwood trees as we followed the path of Sonoita Creek all the way to Patagonia Lake. Here a group of Neotropical Cormorant were perched up on a small island, and we saw our first Great Blue Heron of the journey. In a small dry thorn-scrub clad canyon we waited patiently for activity, and were rewarded to find a female Black-capped Vireo repeating the same pathway through a dead portion of a mesquite, disappearing with insects and larvae collected for her nestlings. She prominently displayed her undertail for a sure i.d., and a few of our group spotted the male. Between sightings of the female, a male Broad-billed Hummingbird came to perch on the mesquite that framed our view – what a pairing of birds to see! At 10:00 in the morning it was already getting hot, so we retreated to the more shaded Roadside Rest, where we had good luck finding Black Vulture and Thick-billed Kingbird. Janet and Joyce spotted a male Hooded Oriole hunkered down on a shaded limb; it stayed in this pose for all to see in the scope – such a tropical looking member of our local fauna!

We had lunch in town, accompanied by a displaying male Bronzed Cowbird and a Zone-tailed Hawk that made a pass overhead. Several enjoyed the chance to shop at the beautiful Mesquite Gallery across the street, and we then took refuge from the heat, stronger this day than most, at the Patons’ feeders. Here we finally found Lark Sparrow, typically seen in more abundance. We had good looks at Gray Hawk, Thick-billed Kingbird, Abert’s Towhee, and marveled that a secretive Yellow-breasted Chat came right to a feeder to sample the oranges! Hummingbirds stole the show here, though; fine views of both Broad-billed and Violet-crowned again lent a tropical flair to the day.

To Walt and Duval, who had traveled to Southeast Arizona for birding previously, the condition of Kino Springs, once a verdant green oasis, was sad. Several years of drought have killed many of the cottonwoods, and landowners have cleared brush and cut them down. Still six Black-bellied Whistling Ducks fed and preened in the remaining aquatic habitat, and another six loafed at the upper pond. A Gray Hawk was on its nest at the lower pond; another adult attended a nest at the Upper Pond. As it was getting late we did not stay long, but continued to drive north, stopping at some flooded fields near Rio Rico to admire forty or more Black-bellied Whistling Ducks that fed with White-faced Ibis. A Cattle Egret was a bit of a surprise, never a common bird here, and one of the horses coming down to drink scared up a Green Heron.

We arrived with time for a refreshing shower, and to enjoy wine and hors d’oeuvres set out by Betty, our host at the charming Amado Territory Inn. Dinner next door at the Amado Café was grand, and Greg walked our more keen birders through the checklist, now standing at 197 species.

Fri., May 18 Madera Canyon / Arivaca Cienaga / California Gulch
Another bright sunny day greeted us, with Lucy’s Warbler leading the dawn chorus from our accommodations. After a delicious breakfast on the great room porch, we drove a short way north to Madera Canyon, stopping at some of the lower canyon sites to find Rufous-winged Sparrow, Varied Bunting and this year’s reported nesting pair of Black-capped Gnatcatcher. The latter species had large fledged youngsters the adults were feeding and it was fun to watch the adults’ secretive comings and goings to get these little ones fed. Further up the canyon we had great looks at Flame-colored Tanager, Hepatic Tanager and Hooded Oriole, all in the same area – a very tropical experience right here in the States. After a fine morning, we returned to our lodgings and had a good lunch at Christopher’s next door, dining on their creative sandwiches and wraps. Peg and four intrepid travelers pushed on for remote California Gulch, passing through Arivaca where they had the good fortune to find a Peregrine Falcon flying in the company of several Black Vultures. The road into California Gulch was a good adventure, but very rewarding as we found the target species right away, and had good looks as well at Varied Bunting singing from the Ocotillo. Greg took the rest of the group to Tumacacori National Monument and all found this historic site quite fascinating. They went on to Tubac to do a bit of shopping, and found this artist’s haven quiet for a Friday afternoon. We all met up at the Stables Restaurant of the Tubac Country Club for a final dinner, where we recounted our highlights of the week.

Sat., May 19 Florida Wash / departures
Peg could not resist taking the group on one last bumpy dirt road, this time a short way to a beautiful canyon of the Santa Rita Mountains. Here we found our 206th species of the trip – a beautiful adult Golden Eagle, circling high, in and out of the cliffs above. A great way to end our trip; we went on to the airport for everyone’s flights home.

Photos by: Greg Smith - Western Tanager, G. Roadrunner, Mexican Jay, birds at feeder, Flame-colored Tanager, Tumacacori, Whiptail Lizard, Rolla and Ellen. All other photos by Peg Abbott. www.naturalistjourneys.com, www.massaudubon.org

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