Trinidad & Tobago
Dec. 31, 2005 – Jan. 9, 2006 - Trip Report

Fri. & Sat., Dec. 30 & 31 Arrival in Trinidad / Asa Wright Nature Centre
About half of our group opted to arrive a day early – late the night of the 30th – and the kind staff of the Asa Wright Nature Centre had left out sandwiches and tea. The early arrivals enjoyed the last day of the year having an extra morning on the veranda and trails of the Centre to find many new species. On the trail, we had a very close encounter with a male Bearded Bellbird; we also observed a fair amount of activity at the White-bearded Manakin lek. It was really nice to have time to observe these remarkable species with no scheduling constraints.

The rest of our group arrived mid-afternoon the 31st, in time to settle in and watch birds come in to roost. A colony of Crested Oropendola was busy building nests near the Centre; the birds flew back and forth collecting building materials until the last light of day. The Barred Antshrike called from just below the feeders; amazingly, a Blue-crowned Motmot came right to a well-protected feeding shelf! What a great place to converse and observe, overlooking the largely untouched Arima Valley.

Dinner was marvelous, with delicious, spice-filled meats and vegetables. A local band played music for us -- their energy just filled the dining room. We had the closest table, so we could see the players’ great camaraderie – what a treat! Most of the group turned in before the midnight hour, lulled to sleep by the constant calling of Ferruginous Pygmy Owl.

Sun., Jan. 1 Walk with Rudal / Bellbird Trail / Night Birding at Waller Field
Several of the group had already ventured twice near the bellbird and manakin leks along the Discovery Trail, so we opted to take our first walk with guide Rudal Ramlal (Rudy) out the Centre’s driveway. Rudy’s expertise was immediately apparent, as was his generosity and kind spirit. We had a good time discovering Violaceous and White-tailed Trogons, getting super looks in the scope. We saw several species of hermits, watched a mixed flock of tanagers and Violaceous Euphonia, and learned a lot about local plants and butterflies. A Blue Morpho obliged us with some a great photo opportunity, spreading its wings while on rock in the streambed. A Forest Eleania appeared at our turnaround point – the morning passed quite quickly! Then we returned to perch on our feeding table, enjoying yet another fine meal at Asa Wright.

In the afternoon Peg took one group down the Discovery Trail to find the Bearded Bellbird. This proved a bit trying – much more so than locating either the Golden-headed or White-bearded Manakins. Our patience paid off, however, when the male bellbird came in and perched at fairly close range. We heard five or six before spotting this one and were quite grateful for the opportunity!

Rudy’s son David, our other guide, arrived about 3 p.m. to take those who interested in seeing night birds to Waller Field. They arrived in time to watch Moriche Orioles (very local here), Sulphury Flycatcher, and quite a number of Red-bellied Macaws come in; then they found Barn Owl, several Paraque, and White-tailed Nightjar. A great list for a night trip, topped off by the picnic dinner by the small lagoon.

Mon., Jan. 2 Blanchiessese / Northern Range
Once again, Pat was one of the first to the veranda in the morning, where she charted the choreography of arriving birds. Among the first were Palm Tanagers, Silver-beaked Tanagers and Green Honeycreeper, attracted by the remnants of bread, bananas, and papaya laid out for night-feeding bats. We quickly got comfortable with the morning ritual: rich Arabica coffee from the estate, brewed fresh and presented to us at 6:00 a.m. while we watched light open up valley vistas to the songs of Little Tinamou, the rattle of Channel-billed Toucans, and the now familiar “bonk” of the Bearded Bellbird.

This morning we also watched a flock of Blue-headed Parrots feeding with their larger Orange-winged cousins in an African Tulip Tree. It was a wonderful sight through the scope: a bright blue face, beak clutching a bright orange blossom as a puffin would a silvery ocean fish. A Chestnut Woodpecker dashed through, and Pat spotted a distant Black-crowned Tityra. Both toucans and trogons put on a splendid show. Soon the porch was busy, with two groups and several independent travelers working together to see as much as we could before breakfast. “White Hawk!” one would call out; then, “male Tufted Coquette on the vervain.” Our group gathered, comparing notes on how long the calls of the Ferruginous Pygmy Owl had kept them awake and commenting on the unseasonable rains and winds that seemed to shadow our stay.

After a filling breakfast, we were off for the Caribbean coast, taking a detour up to the telecommunications tower on a high point in the Northern Range. A group of Trinidad Piping Guan had been active in this area weeks earlier, attracted by the fruits of several large Matchwood trees. David had studied guans in their northeast stronghold and was very eager to share a sighting of this group, which he had discovered several years before. He tried in vain to call them in as we walked down the hill with views of different Matchwood trees. We saw Tropical Mockingbird, Tropical Pewee, a Common Black Hawk, and numerous Black Vultures; but the mist and clouds increased, hampering our efforts.

On to the next! We stopped at another possible Trinidad Piping Guan location, where we honed in on the classic three-note call and superlative views of the Black-faced Antthrush, the cock of the forest. Above him tanagers and a flock of thrushes – including the Yellow-legged Thrush, normally associated with higher elevations -- fed on small berries. Farther down the road we spotted and were able to scope a Gray Hawk. Throughout these ventures, we played hopscotch with some torrential rains. Much heavier rains earlier in the year had left their mark, including a road washout that isolated Blanchisseuse residents for several weeks. Ann had all too good a view of the washout from her seat on the downhill side and was most impressed!

We stopped for lunch during a small break in the rain and enjoyed our BBQ chicken and “Mac and Cheese.” Then we wandered down to a quiet lagoon where some local folks were having a wonderful time swimming, laying in the surf, and walking on the beach. Lynn spotted a cute little Green Kingfisher; Peg found a Gray Kingbird and a bevy of hatching toads, species unknown. We were disappointed that it was too rough to swim, but enjoyed watching the impressive bounce of waves over the outlying rocks, and the Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds in their coastal realm.

Heading back in the afternoon, we had some splendid birding stops and a tea-and-chocolate stop with fine views of the Northern Range. We saw a Striped Cuckoo, several Smooth-billed Ani, a flock of Yellow-rumped Caciques, several species of flycatcher in the same vicinity, and Rufous-breasted Wrens. At teatime, a Linneated Woodpecker appeared, followed by a pair of Crimson-crested Woodpeckers -- Jessie got some really great photos of them. We took the opportunity to compare these two large Pileated woodpecker species and examine a bit of their behavior. A Rufous-tailed Jacamar sitting beneath a canopy of banana leaves and calling loudly was the final prize of the day. We returned to the Centre in time for rum punch on the veranda.

Tues., Jan. 3 Agricultural Research Station / Manzanillo Beach / Nariva Swamp
We met on the veranda this morning. Those arriving earliest enjoyed the treat of a male Black-throated Mango and Tufted Coquette hummingbirds perched on a nearby twig, preening and showing off their fine plumage. The coquette put on an especially fine show, fanning out his orange and black dotted neck and chin feathers for the entire world to see. Several of us had an early breakfast in order to go back up the hill in pursuit of the Trinidad Piping Guan. Driving back up to the telecommunications tower, David stopped our van to say, “look on the right hand side, Cecropia tree.” As Rich pointed out, the guan could not have orchestrated a better show. He perched on both sides of the road at close range, offering great angles for photographs; and he demonstrated both his high whistle call and the strange clacking sound he makes with his wings (perhaps tapping stiff primaries on his thighs while hunched over flying). This, along with super looks at Scaled Pigeon and quick looks at Speckled Tanager, made for a splendid morning.

Joining the rest of the group back at the Centre, we headed down to the agricultural research station to enjoy a leisurely walk and a frenzy of birding. Against the marvelous backdrop of the Northern Range, we found a number of new species -- from the large Cocoi Heron to the small but handsome White-headed Marsh Tyrant. At our turn-around spot we were lucky to find a perched Merlin, steady enough for us to get in the scope. Views of Cattle Egret and Savanna Hawks among the Water Buffalo, cattle, and the hybrid “Buffalypso” will be hard to forget, as will the sight of a Pied Water Tyrant taking a bath in a pool just a few yards distant.

We stopped for a cold drink in the small town of Valencia, and then drove through the bustling city of Sangre Grande to the beach at Manzanillo. Here the surf was pounding as well, so we couldn’t indulge in a swim. Instead we enjoyed a walk up the shore lined with coconut trees, with views of lush forests extending to a northern point and a vast expanse of undeveloped coast to the south. A private mansion across the hill stood in stark contrast to the simple homes of the less privileged people below, though both types of domiciles were bedecked with bright flowers and graced by views of the Atlantic.

Rudy and David wanted to show us Black-crested Antshrike, Silver Antbird, and Pygmy Kingfisher. To see them, however, we had to tiptoe along a busy, garbage-strewn highway, calling to each other over the trucks! This really tested our devotion to birding; how we wish this fine country would provide greater protections for its natural heritage. Our travails were rewarded, though by good looks at both the antshrike and the antbird. We were relieved to turn onto the quiet road into Nariva Swamp, where we enjoyed fine views of an Azure Gallinule perched up on tall reeds and the quick overhead dash of a Pinnated Bittern.

We returned to Waller Field at sunset to watch the Chestnut-bellied Macaws fly in. We watched a group of about 20 feed on the ripe fruits of a Moriche Palm and move about their nighttime roosts, getting great looks at their yellow cheek patches in the scope. A Moriche Oriole, rare and local in Trinidad, also put on a good show. After our long day, we enjoyed rum punch under the protection of a thatched hut as the rains began in earnest. Once again we opened umbrellas – we certainly understand why this island is so green!!

Wed., Jan. 4 Oilbird Cave / Caroni Swamp
Today we had a full morning at the Centre, and several of us, after coffee and some birdwatching from the deck, opted to search for a Little Tinamou. We knew our chances were slim, but the loop walk down Chaconia and up Bellbird Trail would provide some fine birding in any event. By now the Channel-billed Toucans, Crested Oropendolas, and the host of colorful tanagers were regulars. We made our way down a steep hill (muddy enough to claim the clean pants of one of our group), to level ground to search for our bird. While we did not find the tinamou, a Black-faced Antthrush called and then walked right down the trail next to a White-necked Robin. Jessie had really wanted to see that robin, so that was a fine duo for our morning.

As we made the loop, both the bellbird and manakin leks were active, and we were happy to find a female White-bearded Manakin causing quite a commotion among the males. Rich and Jessie were intent on photographing the Golden-headed Manakin when Peg, Pat, and Lynn spied a dove perched in a blooming Immortelle tree. Among the flaming orange blossoms perched a medium-sized dove with a distinct band on the neck, scaling on the nape, and a pearly, rose-gray breast with no scaling. It was a Band-tailed Pigeon, quite a rare find in Trinidad. We got fantastic eye-level views, and Pat noted the yellow bill. On the way back we also had a very cooperative Bay-headed Tanager that we photographed with fruit in its bill. Not bad for a stroll before breakfast!

After breakfast, with light rain starting to fall, we donned coats and umbrellas and headed for Dunstan Oilbird Cave, a restricted area within the Asa Wright sanctuary that protects a breeding colony of Oilbirds. The Centre has built a new platform near the mouth of the cave so one can see the birds without getting wet feet. However, we were all able to go down into the entrance of the cave – thanks to the help of our guide, Harold -- so we could get close looks at the nesting birds. These large and beautifully marked members of the nightjar family are an oddity of the avian realm: like bats, they are fruit eaters, nocturnal, and can echolocate. How tremendously satisfying to see them and learn more about one of the earth’s rare creatures.

Dick inspired a few of us to walk a longer route home, and we walked right into a torrential downpour – quite the rainforest experience!! The birds were hiding from the rain, so we made good time and tried to navigate the Bamboo Valley Trail. Soon Dick announced we’d hit the end of the trail: an immense tree had fallen right over a tight switchback, blocking our progress with a daunting tangle of limbs. Nothing to do but return, via the same path to find a delicious lunch and prepare for our afternoon outing.

Just shy of noon the rains turned into a downpour, and everyone seemed ready to forego a visit to Caroni. But we rallied (this certainly wasn’t a group of whiners!!), and by 1:30 were boarding our vans to go first to the local sewage lagoons (water birds anyway, right??) and then on to the swamp to meet our local guides/boat drivers.

At the lagoons we first encountered Spectacled Caiman, good sized and a new species for us. We also spotted some friends from the previous day’s visit to the agricultural centre’s ponds, including Pied Water Tyrant and White-headed Marsh Tyrant. We added Purple Gallinule, the first of our Great and Snowy Egrets, and the tiny Least Grebe. John commented that we must have been quite a sight, walking under umbrellas and gesturing wildly to each other as we found Yellow-hooded Blackbird and other striking species in the rain.

The magic of the mangrove-lined canal leading into Caroni soon captivated us, and Carl related the remarkable story of three species that had separately developed similar and fascinating adaptations in this world-renowned wetland system. Our guide, Victor, explained the basics of the area’s ecology, then masterfully steered our boat so we could see Red-capped Cardinal, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, and three species of crabs. Molly gasped at the sight of our first Scarlet Ibis – so startling is its almost luminescent color! The Anhinga entertained us with stretched out wings splayed out to dry.

Then we headed out to the more open lagoon to position ourselves for good views of birds coming in to roost. After eight years of leading boat excursions, Victor has a keen eye: he spotted a group of egrets and ibis gathering in a new location and decided to take us there. We had the whole mangrove island and surrounding lagoon to ourselves. One by one the flocks came in, banking to land on branches of varied heights. Tricolored Herons and Snowy Egrets came in low, while Scarlet Ibis came in higher, arcing over our boat and putting on a fine show. We sat silent, just absorbing the magic of the aerial parade. Then Victor reminded us we had brought rum punch, so Sharon and Ann were put to work pouring this marvelous Trinidad concoction. Oilbirds in the morning, Scarlet Ibis with rum punch in the evening, quite a perfect day – despite the all too familiar rains!

Thurs., Jan. 5 Tobago / Bon Accord Lagoon / Hilton Ponds / Cuffie River Lodge
Several of us gathered on the veranda for one last look at the tapestry of color that swirls around the feeders at Asa Wright. Having heard about a sighting of a Gray-throated Leaftosser the day before, we made two trips to the site; but we didn’t locate this ground feeder, despite its distinct call and habit of rummaging through dried leaves. We did find an immature Grayish Saltator to study, noting its very olive color and streaking.

Our wonderful time at Asa Wright had come to an end, but we were excited to move on to Tobago. David and Rudy took us to the airport, where we checked in and boarded with ease. From the air the sunlit shores looked marvelous, particularly the glowing jade green of the fringing reef. When we arrived in Tobago, Gladwyn James, Adolphus’ son, met us with a modern bus. Air conditioning, what a luxury! Actually with all the rain we had not needed it, but now with sun it was a blessing.

Our first Tobago bird was an Eared Dove, and we saw many more after that. Gladwyn took us to the Bon Accord Lagoons and the ponds of the Hilton Hotel complex: between the two we located several new species, including White-cheeked Pintail, Ring-necked Duck, Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Belted Kingfisher, and a Pied-billed Grebe. Gladwyn discussed Tobago’s history, pointed out Fort George on the bluff overlooking Scarbourough, and answered our many questions about the new Caribbean trade agreement and other issues.

Tobago seemed very prosperous, and we welcomed the fine ocean views and general feel of the Caribbean. We arrived at the beautiful, relaxing Cuffie River Lodge around 2 p.m. for a late lunch; then all enjoyed a free afternoon to either wander, settle in, swim in the lodge’s great pool, or just regroup and do laundry.

Fri., Jan. 6 Cuffie River Lodge / “Jacamar Trail”
We awoke to the sounds of nature – especially to the cacophony that only chachalacas can make, mixed with the trills of Tropical Kingbird and the dawn calls of Barred Antshrike. The windows of our lodge rooms open to the forest -- a delightful way to greet the day, feeling the soft tropical air and sensing the sunrise from your bed! After the summer-camp ambiance of Asa Wright’s accommodations, Cuffie River provided pampered elegance with marvelous birds as well.

On the lodge grounds several White-collared Jacobins controlled the hummingbird feeders; without any aggressive Green Honeycreepers around to keep them in check, they scared many of the other species away. We got glimpses of the gorgeous Ruby Topaz Hummingbird despite the Jacobins’ efforts. Dick spotted several Orange-winged Parrots in the fruiting Guava tree out front. Peg and a few others ventured out in the early morning, spotting a duo of male Blue-backed Manakin that called from their display perch. We got super looks at Rufous-vented Chachalacas, Blue-crowned Motmots, and Brown-crested Flycatchers, while identifying some of the local birdcalls and songs.

After breakfast with good rich coffee, we joined local guide Desmond for a walk on what we decided to call the “Jacamar Trail,” in honor of magical and friendly performances repeated along the way by several jaunty members of this species. The trail began at the lodge, wound its way back up the entrance road, and then turned off to a loop back toward the lodge. It climbed quite steeply over a small landslide, then followed an old road leading to what was a cocoa farm, but is now returning to a natural state.

We had great views of older parts of the forest, including several grand old giant trees festooned with bromeliads, epiphytic cacti, orchids, and other arboreal decoration. Between great looks at birds we trained the scope on the bromeliads, just starting to bloom. Desmond alerted us to a pair of White-fringed Antwrens at very close range, and Peg found a pair of Yellow-breasted Flycatcher with an Ochre-bellied Flycatcher right behind them. Mary’s favorite was the roosting White-tailed Nightjar, seen close enough to fill the frame of the scope – what a find! On this sunny day an array of butterflies fed in the lush heliconias and other vegetation. The Red Rim butterfly, which feeds on rotting fruit, was new to us, as was the Red-crowned Woodpecker pointed out by Lynn. Linda spotted a Broad-winged Hawk on the wing, and it cooperatively landed in an open Cecropia tree for all to view in the scope. The walk was challenging for many, but a good workout, enough to warrant second helpings at our delicious and relaxing lunch.

In the afternoon we scattered to enjoy naps, reading, or time at the pool. Ann declared that relaxing on an inflatable lounger in the pool was the best way to bird: indeed, one could observe a good number of species from that vantage point, including Rufous-vented Chachalacas and multitudes of Orange-winged Parrots. Pat kept watch at the feeders. Several of us ventured out for a late afternoon amble, during which Jessie and Rich, and later Carl spotted a Blue-crowned Motmot so we could all get wonderful views.

At our evening meal, the owner of Cuffie River, Regina told us the history of the lodge, an inspiring story of her father’s legacy and her own quest after many years of working throughout the Caribbean and even in Switzerland. She is doing a fabulous job here, and we felt quite fortunate to be able to visit.

Sat., Jan. 7 Caribbean Coast Tobago / Forest Reserve / Speyside and Blue Waters
We awoke to sun and the sounds of the forest – first the chachalacas, then Orange-winged Parrots by the score, then House Wren and Barred Antshrike. Hummingbirds were busy early at the feeders; to our joy, the Ruby Topaz Hummingbird lingered at the back feeders. From the balcony of the second story, we could look down on all his colors – a winged feast for all (especially for Ann, who has returned to school for an advanced degree in textiles!). Today the hummer was not to be put off by Copper-rumped Hummingbirds or the White-necked Jacobin.

Gladwyn and his father, Adolphus James, came to pick us up for the day’s adventures. Luckily, Molly spotted our stash of snacks and Peg’s camera bag left behind on the couch – phew!!! On the way to the beach, Gladwyn pulled over by a magnificent Ceiba tree absolutely loaded with epiphytes of all variety. It towered over us, its buttresses wide enough for a small home. Across the street a blooming Immortelle tree attracted Blue-gray Tanagers and -- new for us on this trip – electric blue Red-legged Honeycreepers. Pat and Gladwyn got them in the scopes, not an easy feat with such a small, active bird.

We thoroughly enjoyed several photo and birding stops along the North Coast at Castana Beach and Englishman’s Bay. Our first stop was a fine viewpoint, where we divided our attention between a giant grasshopper and a craft booth selling delightful bamboo bird feeders, local instruments, and carved purses. We reluctantly left this retail therapy to continue to Castana Beach. There, we found our first Brown Boobies, and Linda teased out the plumage variations of male, female, and juvenile on the wing. Along the rocky, scenic coast, Royal Terns and some White-winged Swallows were busy feeding. Above Englishman’s Bay a Peregrine Falcon soared above us for a view of every feather – “fine!” as Carl would say.

The morning’s highlight was our walk at Gilpen Trace. Established in 1765 it is this hemisphere’s first forest reserve. At our first stop, atop the high point of the Main Ridge, Lynn spotted a pair of Great Black Hawks engaged in some spectacular aerial stunts. Entrepreneurs were renting boots to wear on the often-muddy trail; soon we descended into a realm of palms. Carl and Lynn Leopold, who established a foundation in Costa Rica dedicated to forest regeneration, were quite taken with the mix of plant species and the recovery of the forest structure since Hurricane Flora in 1963. A striking variety of palms dominate the edges of the path. We also found some super birds: Plain Antvireo, Stripe-headed Spinetail, White-necked Spadebill, Cocoa Woodcreeper, and at last – super looks at a perched White-tailed Saberwing! This beautiful hummingbird was thought to be lost after the hurricane, but Adolphus James rediscovered it over a decade later. Then Peg put out a spread of sesame crackers, cashews, and divine chocolate to energize us for the walk back up the hill.

Lunch and the beach were calling! We took the highway across the island to Roxboro, and then drove along the Atlantic coast to a cove near Speyside and our accommodations at the Blue Waters Inn. Our hosts had a delicious lunch of very fresh Kingfish waiting for us, along with French fries for a little “food from home” fix. Lunch sent several members of the group down for a nap; others walked the beach, and several went snorkeling along the rocks on the south side of the bay. Rich saw about 80 species of fish before the sun faded around 4 p.m. and left that corner of the bay in shadows. Pat and Peg went out in the sea kayaks, catching great views of the offshore rocky islets and their attendant Brown Pelican, Brown Boobies, and -- in the distance -- Red-billed Tropicbirds.

The manager of the inn hosted a party for us of cocktails and snacks in the Shipwreck Bar. We caught up on our bird lists, enjoyed a buffet dinner, and listened to a remarkable demonstration of steel band pan music. Ann, thinking it was a large band with all kinds of electrical amplification, was amazed to find it was three guys with three simple drums. This music is best live, when you can watch how they create and blend the myriad tones. By night’s end we were singing along and trying smaller instruments to add to the tones – fun!

Sun., Jan. 8 Little Tobago Island / Snorkling at Blue Waters
The sound of the surf added a wonderful undertone to the morning chorus of chachalacas and parrots just outside our windows – great to be so close to the ocean! Many of us wandered down to the beach at first light, where a Yellow-crowned Night Heron allowed us to approach within a few feet. A group of Ruddy Turnstones included several banded individuals, so Lynn took notes to report to the bird banding laboratory. The Ruddy Turnstones were so tame they foraged around Linda’s toes as she enjoyed her morning coffee. Morning light held promise of a beautiful day, and by 9:00 we were aboard our glass-bottomed boat for a tour of the reef and a walk on nearby Little Tobago Island.

We had a lovely walk, watching for Scrub Greenlet and Chivi Vireo as we climbed switchbacks to a viewpoint of the windswept Atlantic side. What a thrill to see and hear so many Red-billed Tropicbirds and to glimpse them on their nests hidden near the lookout. Magnificent Frigatebirds harassed them relentlessly, trying to pirate their fish. An Osprey came by with a large fish, and several Brown Booby had nearly grown chicks. We had a good view of nearby St. Giles Island, where thousands of frigatebirds flew overhead, testimony to the biological productivity of the island’s northeast side. We saw a Green Sea Turtle and dozens of fish as we crossed over the reef, a nice sneak preview for those who would return to snorkel this afternoon.

Our exploration of Trinidad and Tobago was drawing to a close. Rich and Jessie shared their marvelous photos with us as we gathered in the bar – a remarkable collection of images for such a short time! They captured the color and fascination of the region’s mixture of South American and Caribbean birds. None of us will ever look the same way again at a map of this area, now that we know more intimately the richness of these island nations.

Mon., Jan. 9 Departures
Molly had a last swim this morning, while Peg, Rich, and Pat searched out a few more birds: Red-crowned Woodpecker, Barred Antshrike, Scrub Greenlets, and a Banaquit that was moving its nest (we thought wisely) from a very ripe group of palm fruits. Gladwyn arrived to pick us up right on time. We passed easily through the island’s light traffic, and soon were dashing through duty-free shops spending our last T&T dollars. “All aboard,” Peg announced -- until our next adventure calls!

Photo Credits: Photos by Peg Abbott.

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