Utah's National Parks
September 2004 - Trip Report

Fri., Sept. 3 Las Vegas / Drive to Grand Canyon, North Rim
We met in the frenzied “wilds” of Las Vegas, where most of our group had arrived the previous day to sample a bit of neon and nightlife. Finding each other was our first challenge, as even the airport hosts busy rows of slot machines. We picked up Lynn at the airport and the others at the Bellagio and Imperial Palace -- where Peg will NEVER forget the image of Bert and Janet G. leaning against the slot machines, surrounded by their gear, with a look of utter disbelief at the scene before them. What a start to this adventure!

All aboard the van, we were soon headed east, with Peg explaining the creation of the fault block mountain ranges and the composition of Mojave Desert vegetation en route. George spotted the first Joshua Tree, a tall, many-branched member of the yucca family that became more numerous as we gained elevation. We had a snack in Mesquite (yes, Janet G. held forth and did NOT try her first MacDonald’s) and ascended through inspiring scenery of the Virgin River Gorge. Dark Visnu Schist, the same rock that frames the Inner Gorge of the Grand Canyon, supports a layer cake of sedimentary rock here, the layers warped and thrust up against one another in a jumble known as the Beaver Dam Mountains.

Once past St. George and Hurricane, we couldn’t resist stopping to photograph this brilliant red rock country and its wide-pen spaces. Our route crossed the Colorado Strip of Arizona and Utah, lands of the Pauite, and our first forests of juniper and Pinyon Pine. We stopped in Fredonia (NOT high on Tirhan’s list anymore!) and then left the “bright lights” behind for good as we drove to the heights of the Kaibab Plateau, passing through magnificent Ponderosa Pine forests.

From a lookout at a rest stop we could see the Vermillion Cliffs, Gray Cliffs, White Cliffs, and Pink Cliffs of the Grand Staircase region. Skirts of scattered rain came down as virga, providing a most dramatic light show. A Northern Harrier and then several American Kestrels battered their way against the wind. In the open, park-like meadows near our lodge, two Wild Turkey hens and their funny-looking teenage broods crossed the road, then clucked and strode across the meadow, sucking up insects like avian threshing machines. Arriving at Kaibab Lodge, we were glad to settle in and grab some warmer clothes, as it seemed it could snow any moment! A crackling fire greeted us at the lodge, where Peg treated to wine and a welcome dinner.

Sat., Sept. 4 Canyon Overlooks West of Bright Angel Point
Our options today were quite limited, as yesterday’s high winds preceding the storm had not only stoked up two local fires, but had downed several large trees across the Park’s road to Cape Royal and its expansive Grand Canyon vistas. Not to be daunted, we took the park ranger’s advice, heading out on a dirt road on the lands of neighboring Kaibab National Forest to hike and enjoy the vista points west of the Park sites, along the rim. We had an easy but splendid day, driving back dirt roads that wound through huge aspens and Ponderosa Pines. We saw flocks of Western Bluebird, Dark-eyed Junco, Vesper Sparrow, as well as several Northern Flickers.

Our first spectacular view of the canyon was at Timp Overlook. Dotted clouds cast shadows over the expanse of sage, red, and orange rock layers of the canyon, adding drama to the scene. The vastness evoked several oohs and aahs, our cameras clicked, and then we exclaimed again as a gang Clark’s Nutcrackers arrived to put on quite a show. Several birds worked at splaying open the abundant Pinyon Pine cones for us, prying out seeds that they stored in their bulging sublingual pouches. Janet N. spotted one caching seeds nearby: she pointed us to this quiet and secretive bird, which was going from spot to spot to disgorge 5 to 7 seeds, scrape needles over to hide them, and continue on. A few crafty Steller’s Jays then came by, likely taking the opportunity to steal some seeds. Lynn spotted a flock of Evening Grosbeaks that also were working through the cones, guarded despite the frenzy of this social endeavor. Flocks of Mountain Chickadee and Red-breasted and Pygmy Nuthatches fed in the vicinity; later on our hike we found Orange-crowned Warbler, Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Hairy Woodpecker, and a large flock of Common Bushtit.

Lucy led a three-mile hike from Timp Overlook to North Timp, while Peg and Bert drove the van around to provide a car shuttle. Bert spotted a scampering Kaibab Squirrel en route, which leapt from tree to tree fanning its luminescent white tail. Both groups spotted Mule Deer with their young, seeming very content as they fed on abundant grass in the cool shade of spruce and aspen forest. Our hikers made good time; once reunited, we drove to another beautiful viewpoint for a picnic lunch and short stroll. Pine needles and soft grass were most inviting, and before we left quite a few got in a short siesta.

After a late afternoon break at the lodge, we ventured out to see the scenery and sunset over the Grand Canyon from vista points near the lodge at North Rim. A strange thud thud thud noise turned to a loud hiss just at the entry to the gas station – we had a flat tire in our brand new van with less than 400 miles on it! A large gash from an unknown cause, sigh. Several of our group went on to the rim, as it seemed the gas station would have everything we needed to replace the tire. However, Peg, Lynn, and Janet ended up changing it, as “insurance” prevented the strong young man at the station from helping out. Their good humor prevailed through wrestling with it all. Nothing like watching a Pygmy Nuthatch enjoy its bath in a parking lot pool from the underside of the van! As we neared tire changing completion, Lynn alerted us to a great look at a Kaibab Squirrel, which was a good reward for our labors. We met for sunset viewing from the porch, and a great dinner in the historic dining room of the lodge.

Sun., Sept. 5 Hikes at Grand Canyon

Fire still prohibited us from driving out to Cape Royal, making the decision to hike down into the canyon an easy one. Janet N. opted to descend by mule; she had a grand time, getting along quite well with her steadfast mount and seeing a lot of the canyon in a unique way. The rest of us chose to hike, some to a turnaround near the view of Coconino Sandstone, where multi-hued stripes appear to cascade over tan and pink rock, producing the effect of a magnificent curtain colored by desert varnish and mineral stains.

We watched as Turhan, intent on a challenging hike, dropped quickly through several geologic layers, disappearing at a fast clip for a great day of exploring and contemplation. The rest of us chatted, stopped for some great birds (Virginia’s Warbler and Plumbeous Vireo), and discussed spots to end our descent and head back up. Near a view of the base of the Redwall Formation – Peg’s choice for an endpoint -- we lunched in the shade. Climbing back up, we took several welcome water breaks, as temperatures were in the low 80’s that afternoon. It is difficult to describe the immense satisfaction of returning to the forested edge of the rim after meeting the challenges of such a day.

Dinner was a grand time to compare notes with the three from our group who had chosen a more level, but entirely memorable walk along the Widforss Trail. This trail had just been reopened after fire had swept through, and George, Denise, and Lucy found several smoldering areas and one quite fresh with flame. They described the beautiful views from the trail, their tranquil lunch spot on the rim, several close encounters with some Mule Deer does and fawns. In the lodge’s historic dining room we enjoyed choosing from the varied and delicious menu items – roast pork winning the praise of the evening.

Mon., Sept. 6 Cape Royal / Pipe Springs National Monument / Zion
Luck smiled on us today, and the Park Service opened the winding road to the superlative viewpoints at Cape Royal. We had an early breakfast, loaded luggage (a definite challenge as Peg was not permitted to take the back seat out), and headed out for the day. A few hints of fall color greeted us along the drive, as did several groups of Wild Turkey. We stopped at a marvelous viewpoint with a trail to an arch and excellent signs about the local trees and shrubs -- including one of the region’s prettiest shrubs, the unusual Fernbush. A few Western Scrub Jays put in an appearance; for most it was a great opportunity to soak in the panoramic views of the Colorado River and the San Francisco Peaks to the south.

Then we retraced our route, stopping again at the Grand Staircase viewpoint, where we chatted with some Navajo women and children there to sell jewelry. Noon came all too quickly, so we ate our sandwiches and decided to deal with our tire in Kanab before heading on.

We had only an hour at Pipe Springs National Monument, and there was plenty to fill it. The exhibits recently had been redone to provide greater detail on the history of the Pauite tribe, whose lands surround the Monument. Several went on a tour of the historic buildings, while others looked for migrant birds at the site. We had great looks at Wilson’s Warbler, Black Phoebe, and Juniper Titmouse, but the real treat was a rarity that Lynn spotted amid a flock of House Sparrow. It was a male Dickcissel, a bit out of range this far west; we reported this sighting to biologists at neighboring Zion National Park the next day.

Remembering a dramatic shortcut over to Zion, Peg turned down a dirt road on intuition, as locals had removed the signs. What a great way to enter Zion National Park – the only car on a quiet back road, with majestic views all around. The immense views of Navajo Sandstone, the rock of Zion’s “temples,” lured us on. Soon we were settling in to the delightful Desert Pearl Inn, luxurious in contrast to our little log cabins at Kaibab Lodge. Tirhan and Denise fit in a quick swim, and we all enjoyed dinner hosted by Peg at nearby Flannigan’s.

Tues., Sept 7 Hikes and More at Zion National Park

A new tram system gives access to Zion National Park, allowing us to leave the van at the Visitor’s Center and split up for various pursuits. Some of the group enjoyed a leisurely day, stopping at the Weeping Wall and other highlights of the Park and taking a mile-long walk to the Narrows. They spotted the old lumber cable on the East Rim, a few special late-blooming flowers, and a grain storing structure left by the Anasazi.

Others chose a challenging hike up to the West Rim at the junction of Angel’s Landing, for incredible panoramic views. “UP!” was the operative word for Denise, Tirhan, Janet G., Lynn, and Peg. We kept a good pace on the ascent, with some nice shade breaks and lots of photographic opportunities. After lunch and time to enjoy the views, Denise and Janet went down to catch their well deserved massages.

Peg and Lynn lingered further on a vast expanse of Navajo Sandstone (a Jurassic beach amid the dunes), and Tirhan stretched his legs on another mile or two. He met with Peg and Lynn for the descent, followed by a swim in the Zion River to end the day. It was a free night for dinner, so various groups sampled the local restaurants; Mexican food at the Bit and Spur was perhaps the most memorable.

Wed., Sept. 8 Kolob Terraces / Double Arch Alcove

Today we drove west to sample the scenery and fascinating geology of the Kolob section of Zion, as well as the more moderate terrain of the Taylor Creek trail. The reward for our hiking efforts today was a marvelous alcove, tucked in a spectacular, north-facing exposure at the end of the 2½-mile trail. We reached the alcove in time to enjoy our picnic lunch there, bathed by its almost incandescent pink light. George and some others tried to capture the grandness of the scene on film. Within the reaches of the alcove, a constant seep of water created an intricate pattern of mineral stains and fed a lush cliff-side garden.

On this unseasonably HOT day, it was hard for us to abandon the alcove’s deep shade to start our walk home. The trail wound through the creek bottom, which we could cross at ease. Vibrant, almost translucent vermilion cliffs rose above the path, framed by a brilliant blue sky. We celebrated completion of the hike with cold drinks upon reaching the van; for several, the upholstered seats were an even greater treat at the end of the day.

A short drive let us access spectacular vistas on the rest of the park’s scenic drive, and returned to Springdale by late afternoon. Some enjoyed time to shop, while Peg restocked the lunch provisions with fresh apples from the local orchards. Lynn elected to ride the tram up to hike in Zion on the Narrows Trail, where she discovered a lively American Dipper and the magic of hiking as sun faded on the canyon. George, Lucy, and Janet G. tried the local Chinese restaurant and returned with rave reviews, particularly enjoying the patio seating with a fine view of sunset on the cliffs of Zion.

Thurs., Sept. 9 Grafton Ghost Town / Bryce National Park

Peg and three others ventured out for some early morning birding, while others enjoyed a relaxing morning. We stopped first at the hummingbird feeders at the Bit and Spur Restaurant, finding their well-watered garden to be a birding haven. Lesser Goldfinches were feeding in the Zinnias, while three species of hummingbirds (Costa’s, Black-chinned, and Rufous) sought sustenance from the feeders. Say’s Phoebes sought insects from several perches on the lawn’s irrigation pipes, while an Orange-crowned Warbler worked furtively through a flowering hedge, along with American Robins and House Finches.

Then the early birders took a creek-side walk at Coal Pits Wash, which was very quiet with the exception of a large group of Gambel’s Quail and a perky little male Verdin. En route to Grafton Ghost Town on the Virgin River, we spotted the birding mother lode for the day: a huge flock of sparrows, joined by Yellow-rumped Warbler, Western Bluebird, and, later, a Lazuli Bunting in fall plumage. As we sorted through this flock, a very cooperative Rock Wren hunted insects on the warm pavement near our feet and a bold Black-throated Gray Warbler perched right on the top of the fence row!

Having spent time sorting through this flock, we ran out of time. We returned to Springdale to pick up luggage and the rest of our flock; eager to return to this hub of activity. This time we made it to Grafton, a rather quiet and poignant ghost town that was once one of about 20 small communities of Mormon farmers along the Virgin River. We found an adobe church next to a recently restored ranch house, a beautiful old wooden barn, and a still-decorated cemetery with plots from the 1860’s set in this bend of the river. Immense, vibrant cliffs were the backdrop to this remnant of yesterday’s broken dreams. While exploring the buildings, we found several Western Tanagers in the fruit trees; then a quick, female Sharp-shinned Hawk flushed a flock of Mourning Dove before sitting atop a fence for us to study.

Perhaps it was the a bit of rebellion against our energetic hikes the day before: returning to the Desert Pearl for some forgotten items, we found ourselves drawn to the hotel’s gift shop. Denise tried on a lovely dress, and we all browsed like hungry hummingbirds at a feeder, even though, as patient George pointed out, we’d stayed there for three days and had ample time to discover it before. This detour proved to be fortuitous, however, as we headed on to Bryce. On the first scenic stop past the tunnel, Bert spotted a running mammal that turned out to be a young male Bighorn Sheep – a very rare sighting in Zion. It ran nimbly up the carved, arching spread of sandstone to stand above us, its large horns visible as it climbed. What a thrill – Peg’s first sighting of a bighorn in Zion itself after many visits.

We stopped again to photograph the matrix of lines radiating out at Checkerboard Mesa, then continued on to the Sevier River valley and Bryce. Lunch at the Adobe Café in Hatch was fun, and we found some American Magpies along the Sevier River. We arrived at Ruby’s by mid-day to unpack our things and check the “lake” (now almost dry) for birds (spotting American Widgeon, Mallards, Killdeer, Western Meadowlark), before heading to Bryce National Park, just three miles away.

The amphitheatre of Bryce is astounding – a unique show of color and form that was particularly brilliant today as a storm was quickly rolling in across the vast expanse from Navajo Mountain, a good 70-100 miles away. As the rain began, Tirhan was the only one who wanted a hike, so we dropped him off at Sunset Point for a three-mile loop trail and went to visit several viewpoints by van. Although the light was still great at Inspiration Point, by Bryce Point it had started to rain, and Janet N. said loudly, “I’m ready for my wine!” Several of the crew seconded her motion. Reuniting with a slightly damp Tirhan back at the lodge, we enjoyed dinner in the dining room. It was full of people from around the world, all attracted to this amazing amphitheatre carved in the Claron Formation over time.

Fri., Sept. 10 Bryce National Park / Panguitch Lake / Cedar Breaks

We woke to a bright day and looked forward to our hike in the canyon. Tirhan added some miles by starting from Inspiration Point, and Bert opted for some spectacular views and quiet time along the rim trail, working her way back several miles towards the lodge. Janet N. opted to explore by mule, taking the half-day ride for the morning. From Inspiration Point we could see her on a mule with giant ears, working her way around the Peekaboo Trail.

After bidding goodbye to Tirhan, and photographing the views from Inspiration, the rest of us drove around to the start of our trailhead at Sunset Point. Here we descended dramatically into a maze of pinnacles and spires, winding down switchbacks they call ‘Wall Street’. Here, we were immediately immersed in color and grandeur, a sensory experience that could only be absorbed by spending several hours walking through this rainbow of rock.

At the bottom of the switchbacks, three giant trees stood over 100 feet tall. Framed by the narrows of several spires; they seemed to thrive in the shade, despite the lack of any visible organic soil. Further down the trail, in the more lush canyon bottom, we were serenaded by Townsend’s Solitaire accompanied by the busy chirping of Pygmy Nuthatch and their Red-breasted Nuthatch cousins.

We spent the next several hours soaking up color and quiet, enjoying every turn and its fanciful formations. At several spots we just had to pose for photos, and lunch in the shade was a delight. By early afternoon the clouds were building rather dramatically. Janet G. was our lead hiker today; pulled along by sheer joy, she kept saying, “it’s just so beautiful!” At one point the dark clouds billowed around a window in the rock on the distant rim of the canyon above us. Knowing we had to reach that point, we picked up our pace a bit. At Denise’s urging, we opted for the “short and sweet” ascent that brought us to the lodge just as the heavens opened up.

We drove to Cedar Breaks in the afternoon, pausing at Panguitch Lake for some birding from the van. Denise was delighted and amazed to find a good number of American White Pelicans. Everyone was delighted to see a large number of the huge, begging chicks of Clark’s and Western Grebes, close enough to study the difference between these very similar species. With Bert navigating we found a route around the lake and came upon quite a group of immature Red-tailed Hawks, some quite close to the van. We could see literally thousands of ducks in the distance, but it was late in the day and we needed to reach our accommodations so we decided against trying to reach them.

The aspen stands were fantastic in fall color as we drove up to our accommodations at Cedar Breaks, situated at over 9,000 feet. We had to find jackets as we unpacked our suitcases in a howling wind – a blustery end to the day at Bryce.

Sat., Sept. 11 Cedar Breaks National Park / Birding / Final Dinner

Clouds were already brewing the morning, promising another furious afternoon storm, so we began the day with a drive up Brian Head, a spectacular local volcanic peak. We saw numerous American Kestrels balancing on the wind, and several large flocks of sparrows, mostly Vesper and White-crowned. Lucy spotted an American Pipit posing nicely for us on a large rock. We all enjoyed the views from the top, and took a moment for a group photo. We hiked along the road at leisure, Janet G. again leading the pack. We then descended and drove on to the Park’s trails.

Few of our group had ever been to Cedar Breaks, so the first view of the salmon-hued spires was outstanding. This park is similar to, yet different from, Bryce, and here the sun seems to pull the deep color from the rock and fling it to the sky. We got some lovely photographs, and enjoyed watching yet another Red-tailed Hawk play on the wind. The storm was building by late morning, so at the major overlook several decided to stay near the comforts of the van, venturing out to hear a park ranger give an excellent talk on the geology of the area.

Four of us opted for the hike out to the small group of ancient Bristlecone Pines. What an inspiring experience to stand next to the wind-twisted trunks of these 1,600 yr. old giants. If any tree deserves a hug, these certainly qualify, and Peg (not running for election this year) obliged. A Yellow-bellied Marmot seemed unimpressed with either our hikers or the view – perched precariously on the rim of the red cliffs, it was fat and enjoying the morning sun, confident a Golden Eagle was not around. This was the final hike in a grand week of exploring, and we enjoyed it fully.

In the afternoon several opted for massages at the resort and others for time to repack and get ready to travel. Lynn, Janet N., Tirhan, and Peg ventured out in search of a Northern Goshawk, a few more ducks for our list, and whatever else we could find. Traveling several back forest roads, we found a superb overlook with a trail to a hidden spring that we just had too follow. Lynn spotted a Band-tailed Pigeon, and Tirhan got super looks at Townsend’s Solitaire. Driving back through a spread of spectacular, golden aspen, Lynn caught sight of what was likely a likely large accipiter -- but it was too fast for her to call it. Luckily, we finally caught a good fly-over view of a second individual of the powerful and rarely seen Northern Goshawk above the road as we drove through Cedar Breaks.

We gathered for a final dinner at the resort, trading highlights of the trip. This week in Utah, surrounded by color, was a renewing experience.

Sun., Sept. 12 Return to Las Vegas / Mojave Desert / Departures

From the high, mixed-conifer forest we drove DOWN to the Mojave Desert, passing all the classic bands of vegetation we’d walked through in the last week. We shed our jackets, stopped for a brief rest along the way, and arrived at the very crowded airport. The city was a bit of a shock after a week of tranquility, but a necessary stop on way home. Lynn stayed on to explore Death Valley for a few days, four of the crew had the afternoon to see local museums and have a nice lunch, and Janet N. had time to see her daughter. Our flock dispersed with many great memories in hand.

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